I have only used the Apimaye bottom boards on the 10 deep boxes and are very impressed with fit and function. My nucs are really growing and the hives have at least on the last inspection 7 frames of brood mostly capped. The populations look a lot like yours full of bees with very little to no bearding with the Apimaye bottom boards. They are pricy but they are a all in one solution, beetle control, robbing deterrent, hornet protection, venting, pollen trap and saves all the extra products you need with the wooden bottoms. Thanks for the videos!!!!
In the UK we have no drones now all been kicked out and no drone cells it makes me sad,I’ll keep my inspections down to a minimum just check for store’s, hopefully if the winters kind I’ll be back at it next year,least I can get a fix of bee keeping inspections through Your channel....🐝👍
Love the videos, Sir! Always love seeing the Apimaye and beekeeping united! I'm running mostly Api's in N.TX. You are one of my main go-to vlog peeps. Thanks Kam!
I’ve got the same model Apimaye hive, and I actually used it for the first time this spring as a transport hive for two 5 frame nuc colonies that I purchased about 7 hour drive away. The hive totally contained both colonies for the drive while being fully separated and ventilated. The colonies have now reproduced and expanded to 4 hives and the Apimaye works like a charm as a resource hive. Thanks for the videos. Great info.
I've really like my Apimaye hives. I got three this year. Multiple weeks in the 100°F range and never any bearding. The wooden hives were bearded like crazy. They have a lot of thought in them and I actually really like how much less the bee propolise the plastic frames. The feeders are super simple too.
After a week of 30 F for lows and 50 F for high and 2 inches of rain my drones are biting the dust here in MN. The brood is going way down and I'm feeding to get their weight up for winter here in MN. Only a few days of foraging left so the sugar water is going on hard and heavy. In TN you'll be there in a month or so were I am now. That hive looked great Kamon.
I have been told it is the type that is great to be recycled and it says it is on the product. It is a quality plastic. I still don't like the slick frames though!
@@kamonreynolds Thank you for that response! I didn't know they were recyclable as i think mr dunn said they aren't thank you for clearing that up adn that does make them more appealing! love your channe.!!!!
@@kamonreynolds This year 2022 is our second year, we over wintered two colonies in full Apimaye here in N.Utah, both colonies so far have made it through, and look strong. The plastic is slick, I've decided we will use the plastic only in the honey supers, the other two boxes- per colony (four boxes) are already wood frames mixed in with the black plastic frames that came in our nuc packages of spring 2021. As far as mite treatments, only down side is you can't do oxalic acid fumes unless you buy Lorabee set up, or purhaps do the swedish sponges. Have you done the swedish sponge treatment in the Apimayes? Success??
Hi Kamon, I went through some of my hives today and there were some really nice frames of capped brood and frames of larva of all kind it was very exciting to see they are doing well. One hive was not as strong but still at 2 deeps and a medium I think it will do well.
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! JOE May says to avoid drone brood with starter strip, it needs to go into the centre of the brood. If you want drones then put it to out side of the brood!!
Sure thing. I actually will be talking about that very soon. The bees did very very well in our hot humid summers. Little to no bearding. I am excited to overwinter my double poly hive and the 6 frame poly hive and see how they do.
Kamon, That was some nice brood in your 2 queen boxes. Love seeing it. Now, I wondered if you know the two ends of the grafting needle? You can tell how experienced a queen rearer is by how he uses the grafting needle. Which end of the grafting tool is the needle? It is the end you used to pick up the larvae with. Which end is the spoon? Of course it is the other end. How do you use the grafting spoon? It is used to work with your royal jelly. If you want to decrease the viscosity of royal jelly with a drop of nectar, use the normal spoon position. If you want to pick up prepared jelly, you turn the spoon upside down, scoot the end edge along the jelly and you will be able to pick up the exact amount of jelly to place the proper, drop of jelly for a well prepared queen cell. (You chose your larvae very well!) You may then place your one-hour-old larvae in the cell with the greatest of ease. You may float the larvae onto the properly posited jelly. Preparing jelly, keeping it warm, and tending to logistics is quite a juggling act in Tennessee! The other thing I was worried about was the banking of queens. Do you bank virgin queens? Do you bank mated queens? I saw the battery box and the plastic cages. I'm pretty sure there were attendants in those cages. If the queens were mated, either way is ok. If they were virgins with attendants from the emerged colony, that would be ok, not recommended, but your queens would still make it to the receiving box. (What would happen to the attendants?) How many days till the spermatheca receiving tube begins to close? From emergance day to what day? I'm getting too deep. I enjoy your videos! Carroll
Ha great video, I am in Virginia our weather is close to yours I think, I have 3 questions for u if u will tell me please, when do u start giving your bees 2-1 syrup question 2 when do u stop internal inspections so they can seal up the cracks and seams on the boxes or does it really matter. except for the temps needing to be in the 60s oh 1 more question when do u stop giving them pollen patties. Thanks for the videos and your time to read my post and answer them. Have a God Blessed week
Hey dragan G. I totally prefer keeping queens separate. However, combining then right before winter can be useful. In a mild region like mine I seldom use this but many like it.
New to Beekeeping and looking at getting an Apimaye. There are not a lot of videos of people using them. How difficult is it to extract honey from the plastic frames? would it be best to not used the plastic frames in the Super? Thanks in advance
Hey G.N. the plastic frame will work fine during extraction. I personally think the wood one are better for me since I am using an automated Silver queen uncapper. Since most folks hand uncap it shouldn't make a difference on the uncapping. I still would prefer wood frames myself just because they are less prone to sliding and if damage is done down the road wood frames can be repaired.
@@kamonreynolds so I technically could use plastic in the brood box and use wood frames for the super? I was thinking of getting a flowhive but after adding everything up, I could get an Apimaye , extractor and accessories for what the flowhive costs 😀
@@GrillingNetwork Yes you can totally have the Plastic below and the wooden frame above or vice versa. I greatly appreciate you asking about our affiliate link. We have been very pleased with the Apimaye hives we have and I love the pollen traps. apimayeusa.com?sca_ref=108083.7Dl7FRkLNo
@@kamonreynolds sorry for all the questions 😀 I can purchase standard wood frames from any bee store? Can you DM me on Instagram? GrillingNetwork I have a couple more questions and possible collaboration. Thanks again in advance
First year beekeeper with one ten frame and one eight frame hive. PNW climate. I'd like to store them as single deeps this winter. Problem is that everyone here is storing them with supers on. Formic Pro treatment ends on Saturday and I'd like to decide by then. What can go wrong?
Ha Kamon how do u mix your dribble treatment for mites I remember u said dribble is hard on the bees and u said glisern I did not spell that right. should be used can u give me the details thanks
When you overwinter your nucs in the Apimaye, do you plan on using the queen excluder at the top or keeping the feeders on? I just purchased one like yours to overwinter 2 colonies in (starting next year).
those "vents" on the division boards are NOT vents. There are three positions 1) Closed 2)"Smell" and 3) "Move". Closed is obvious, the "smell" position is for merging two hives where the bees can smell each other but cannot get to each other. This setting is for the initial stages of merging where you want the side with a queen to get the side without to start accepting her. "Smell" is the setting with the smaller of the two holes. After you have had the division boards set to "smell" for a while you can then set them to "move". This has the holes large enough for bees to move between each side. This way they can move into each hive, but not overwhelm on side or the other. In my experience once they have merged successfully all the bees will migrate to the queen side. Once you see that you can remove the division boards.
@@HoneyStoneFarm I had that happen accidentally once, and ended up that the hives balled both queens. I got lucky and noticed it the day it was happening and managed to save one of the two queens
Hey Yvonna. 2 questions. What did you treat with and where (roughly) do you live/ what is your season like? You do need to treat on 3 of those colonies I think
Kamon Reynolds - Tennessee's Bees thanks for replying Oxalic acid, once a week for three weeks in a row, we live in southeast Wisconsin, Milwaukee county
@@yvonnamrosa-collins5500 Alrighty. That explains it. Since you all are prepping for winter it is best to keep hitting those mites with OAV. Thankfully this treatment is very gentle on honeybees! Unfortunately, (like you have experienced) it is not very lethal to mites for long periods because it degrades so quickly. 3 days tops. This means you missed several days of mite exposure doing it 3 times in 21 days. There are many opinions on how often you should use OAV. 3 treatments in 21 days is a common opinion but most OAV recommendations are just that, opinions, and are not based upon testing and proof that they actually work. Research has proven recently that OAV only kills for 2-3 days.When all the mites are exposed (winter broodless cluster) it can be very lethal. It's a lot of work but I would treat them some more. Personally I would give them 4-5 more in the next 21 days. I have treated as much as 8 times in a month on a single colony and never saw any ill effects to the colony. In fact they went from a sickly colony (heavily mite infested) to a thriving clean hive the next season. Hope this helps, Kamon
HI KAMON REYNOLDS . DO YOU HAVE WASPS WERE YOU LIVE ? IT HAS BEEN A NIGHTMARE FOR ME AND I HAVE TO CLEAN OUT THE WASPS TRAPS OUT EVERY DAY AND THE WASPS WILL TAKE ALL THE FOOD AND THE HIVE WILL DIE OUT . I AM IN THE UK .
We have wasps but ours don't give us to much trouble unless our hives are weak. Sometimes European hornets can pick off the bees and cause some stress.
Looks like someone decided to needlessly complicate beekeeping & invented this. Why 2 Queen Hive? Just reduce entrance & feed if you got a little colony. Or even give them a frame or two of brood. Putting them in the same hive with another queen looks like poppycock to me.
The Apimaye website. apimayeusa.com?sca_ref=108083.7Dl7FRkLNo
Kamon Thank you for all you do I really APPRECIATE it
Thanks for comment!
One heck of a great queen there. Can't beat that brood pattern.
I have only used the Apimaye bottom boards on the 10 deep boxes and are very impressed with fit and function. My nucs are really growing and the hives have at least on the last inspection 7 frames of brood mostly capped. The populations look a lot like yours full of bees with very little to no bearding with the Apimaye bottom boards. They are pricy but they are a all in one solution, beetle control, robbing deterrent, hornet protection, venting, pollen trap and saves all the extra products you need with the wooden bottoms. Thanks for the videos!!!!
In the UK we have no drones now all been kicked out and no drone cells it makes me sad,I’ll keep my inspections down to a minimum just check for store’s, hopefully if the winters kind I’ll be back at it next year,least I can get a fix of bee keeping inspections through Your channel....🐝👍
Thanks Kamon! Been fun following this Apimaye hive this season.
Love the videos, Sir! Always love seeing the Apimaye and beekeeping united! I'm running mostly Api's in N.TX. You are one of my main go-to vlog peeps. Thanks Kam!
Thanks for the comment Mr. B!
I’ve got the same model Apimaye hive, and I actually used it for the first time this spring as a transport hive for two 5 frame nuc colonies that I purchased about 7 hour drive away. The hive totally contained both colonies for the drive while being fully separated and ventilated. The colonies have now reproduced and expanded to 4 hives and the Apimaye works like a charm as a resource hive. Thanks for the videos. Great info.
Thanks for sharing your experience!
Awesome
K & L, thanks for the update! Both sides seem to be exploding with bees. Roll Tide!!!
Oh yeah they both are needing space quick! Roll Tide Roll!
I've really like my Apimaye hives. I got three this year. Multiple weeks in the 100°F range and never any bearding. The wooden hives were bearded like crazy. They have a lot of thought in them and I actually really like how much less the bee propolise the plastic frames. The feeders are super simple too.
I was surprised how well they worked
After a week of 30 F for lows and 50 F for high and 2 inches of rain my drones are biting the dust here in MN. The brood is going way down and I'm feeding to get their weight up for winter here in MN. Only a few days of foraging left so the sugar water is going on hard and heavy. In TN you'll be there in a month or so were I am now. That hive looked great Kamon.
HI Mr Reynolds! so glad that mr dunn sent me to watch your apimaya hive vids! do they accept the plastic at recycling centers? awesome!!!
I have been told it is the type that is great to be recycled and it says it is on the product. It is a quality plastic. I still don't like the slick frames though!
@@kamonreynolds Thank you for that response! I didn't know they were recyclable as i think mr dunn said they aren't thank you for clearing that up adn that does make them more appealing! love your channe.!!!!
@@kamonreynolds This year 2022 is our second year, we over wintered two colonies in full Apimaye here in N.Utah, both colonies so far have made it through, and look strong. The plastic is slick, I've decided we will use the plastic only in the honey supers, the other two boxes- per colony (four boxes) are already wood frames mixed in with the black plastic frames that came in our nuc packages of spring 2021. As far as mite treatments, only down side is you can't do oxalic acid fumes unless you buy Lorabee set up, or purhaps do the swedish sponges. Have you done the swedish sponge treatment in the Apimayes? Success??
Hi Kamon, I went through some of my hives today and there were some really nice frames of capped brood and frames of larva of all kind it was very exciting to see they are doing well. One hive was not as strong but still at 2 deeps and a medium I think it will do well.
I really like the apimaye hives. Not sure I would like it for production hive but the options are great for resource yard.
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! JOE May says to avoid drone brood with starter strip, it needs to go into the centre of the brood. If you want drones then put it to out side of the brood!!
Yeah... they can still make drones in the middle when they want to.
Please make an update video on the bee box . Greatings from Romania !
Hey Daniel from Romania! Which bee box would you like the video on?
@@kamonreynolds your blue poly hive 😀 ruclips.net/video/IH-WdxLg-FI/видео.html
Sure thing. I actually will be talking about that very soon. The bees did very very well in our hot humid summers. Little to no bearding. I am excited to overwinter my double poly hive and the 6 frame poly hive and see how they do.
@@kamonreynolds Thank you Kamon!
First thing I ever suggested to you, but should use a queen clip in double queen setup like that ;)
Yeah I should probably get one. I just keep forgetting because I don't typically need them.
Ok, thank you Kamon!
Kamon,
That was some nice brood in your 2 queen boxes. Love seeing it.
Now, I wondered if you know the two ends of the grafting needle? You can tell how experienced a queen rearer is by how he uses the grafting needle. Which end of the grafting tool is the needle?
It is the end you used to pick up the larvae with. Which end is the spoon? Of course it is the other end. How do you use the grafting spoon? It is used to work with your royal jelly. If you want to
decrease the viscosity of royal jelly with a drop of nectar, use the normal spoon position. If you want to pick up prepared jelly, you turn the spoon upside down, scoot the end edge along the jelly and
you will be able to pick up the exact amount of jelly to place the proper, drop of jelly for a well prepared queen cell. (You chose your larvae very well!) You may then place your one-hour-old larvae in
the cell with the greatest of ease. You may float the larvae onto the properly posited jelly. Preparing jelly, keeping it warm, and tending to logistics is quite a juggling act in Tennessee!
The other thing I was worried about was the banking of queens. Do you bank virgin queens? Do you bank mated queens? I saw the battery box and the plastic cages. I'm pretty sure there were
attendants in those cages. If the queens were mated, either way is ok. If they were virgins with attendants from the emerged colony, that would be ok, not recommended, but your queens would
still make it to the receiving box. (What would happen to the attendants?) How many days till the spermatheca receiving tube begins to close? From emergance day to what day?
I'm getting too deep. I enjoy your videos!
Carroll
Thanks !!
Two queens how does that work thought they would fight
Ha great video, I am in Virginia our weather is close to yours I think, I have 3 questions for u if u will tell me please, when do u start giving your bees 2-1 syrup question 2 when do u stop internal inspections so they can seal up the cracks and seams on the boxes or does it really matter. except for the temps needing to be in the 60s oh 1 more question when do u stop giving them pollen patties. Thanks for the videos and your time to read my post and answer them. Have a God Blessed week
Nice Video ,thank you. I think it is much easier to keep one queen per box. Don't you think? Result will be the same.
Hey dragan G. I totally prefer keeping queens separate. However, combining then right before winter can be useful. In a mild region like mine I seldom use this but many like it.
I've got 2 hives that the queen always seems to bee on the first outside frame I pull.
Kamon, have you tried doing a hive split with the division boards starting with one hive?
Yes I have and it worked pretty good. The issue I had was eventually they both outgrew the space and so I had to pull one side out
Stay dry this weekend
Kamon i have heard that the plastic foundation won't fit in the frames but I see you made it fit. Is it hard to put the foundation in those frames?
I didn't find it hard in this video ruclips.net/video/HPKSqwL2SRg/видео.html
New to Beekeeping and looking at getting an Apimaye. There are not a lot of videos of people using them. How difficult is it to extract honey from the plastic frames? would it be best to not used the plastic frames in the Super? Thanks in advance
Hey G.N. the plastic frame will work fine during extraction. I personally think the wood one are better for me since I am using an automated Silver queen uncapper. Since most folks hand uncap it shouldn't make a difference on the uncapping. I still would prefer wood frames myself just because they are less prone to sliding and if damage is done down the road wood frames can be repaired.
@@kamonreynolds so I technically could use plastic in the brood box and use wood frames for the super?
I was thinking of getting a flowhive but after adding everything up, I could get an Apimaye , extractor and accessories for what the flowhive costs 😀
@@kamonreynolds also... do you have an affiliate link I can use so you get credit. I know how the game works 😀🔥😀
@@GrillingNetwork Yes you can totally have the Plastic below and the wooden frame above or vice versa. I greatly appreciate you asking about our affiliate link. We have been very pleased with the Apimaye hives we have and I love the pollen traps. apimayeusa.com?sca_ref=108083.7Dl7FRkLNo
@@kamonreynolds sorry for all the questions 😀
I can purchase standard wood frames from any bee store? Can you DM me on Instagram? GrillingNetwork I have a couple more questions and possible collaboration. Thanks again in advance
What is the metal strip I see on one of the frames you are removing?
First year beekeeper with one ten frame and one eight frame hive. PNW climate.
I'd like to store them as single deeps this winter.
Problem is that everyone here is storing them with supers on.
Formic Pro treatment ends on Saturday and I'd like to decide by then.
What can go wrong?
Ha Kamon how do u mix your dribble treatment for mites I remember u said dribble is hard on the bees and u said glisern I did not spell that right. should be used can u give me the details thanks
When you overwinter your nucs in the Apimaye, do you plan on using the queen excluder at the top or keeping the feeders on? I just purchased one like yours to overwinter 2 colonies in (starting next year).
Do you have the vents open or closed on the divider boards? Just got an Apimaye hive to overwinter 2 smaller colonies.
Currently both are closed
those "vents" on the division boards are NOT vents. There are three positions 1) Closed 2)"Smell" and 3) "Move". Closed is obvious, the "smell" position is for merging two hives where the bees can smell each other but cannot get to each other. This setting is for the initial stages of merging where you want the side with a queen to get the side without to start accepting her. "Smell" is the setting with the smaller of the two holes. After you have had the division boards set to "smell" for a while you can then set them to "move". This has the holes large enough for bees to move between each side. This way they can move into each hive, but not overwhelm on side or the other. In my experience once they have merged successfully all the bees will migrate to the queen side. Once you see that you can remove the division boards.
Do you think if you had it set to smell with a queen on both sides one would kill its queen? Or Might it work like a double screen board.
@@HoneyStoneFarm I had that happen accidentally once, and ended up that the hives balled both queens. I got lucky and noticed it the day it was happening and managed to save one of the two queens
@@hyfy-tr2jy Thank You for the info. A double screen board setting would be nice option on this hive.
Hows the apimaye test yard this year?
Kamon, do you use oxalic acid vapor with the Apivar strips in the hive?
I don't. I have done it once, and noticed no ill effects but it is not recommended by me and I don't see the need to.
What are you calling syrup?
Random question Went through my three hives today and did my mite check hive #1 had 11; hive #2 had 6; hive #3 had 2, should I retreat?
Hey Yvonna. 2 questions. What did you treat with and where (roughly) do you live/ what is your season like? You do need to treat on 3 of those colonies I think
Kamon Reynolds - Tennessee's Bees thanks for replying Oxalic acid, once a week for three weeks in a row, we live in southeast Wisconsin, Milwaukee county
@@yvonnamrosa-collins5500 Alrighty. That explains it. Since you all are prepping for winter it is best to keep hitting those mites with OAV. Thankfully this treatment is very gentle on honeybees! Unfortunately, (like you have experienced) it is not very lethal to mites for long periods because it degrades so quickly. 3 days tops. This means you missed several days of mite exposure doing it 3 times in 21 days.
There are many opinions on how often you should use OAV. 3 treatments in 21 days is a common opinion but most OAV recommendations are just that, opinions, and are not based upon testing and proof that they actually work. Research has proven recently that OAV only kills for 2-3 days.When all the mites are exposed (winter broodless cluster) it can be very lethal.
It's a lot of work but I would treat them some more. Personally I would give them 4-5 more in the next 21 days. I have treated as much as 8 times in a month on a single colony and never saw any ill effects to the colony. In fact they went from a sickly colony (heavily mite infested) to a thriving clean hive the next season.
Hope this helps,
Kamon
Where's the 🍯 at?
Don't know why you smoke nothing comes out 😂😂
Whose plastic foundation do you have in the plastic frames?
acorn
HI KAMON REYNOLDS . DO YOU HAVE WASPS WERE YOU LIVE ? IT HAS BEEN A NIGHTMARE FOR ME AND I HAVE TO CLEAN OUT THE WASPS TRAPS OUT EVERY DAY AND THE WASPS WILL TAKE ALL THE FOOD AND THE HIVE WILL DIE OUT . I AM IN THE UK .
We have wasps but ours don't give us to much trouble unless our hives are weak. Sometimes European hornets can pick off the bees and cause some stress.
Put beer in a wasp trap fella 👍
Looks like someone decided to needlessly complicate beekeeping & invented this. Why 2 Queen Hive? Just reduce entrance & feed if you got a little colony. Or even give them a frame or two of brood. Putting them in the same hive with another queen looks like poppycock to me.