thanks for the video. I just bought a kubota L2500 tractor made in 2000. It starts but the guy told me the engine had gotten some water in it and it made a noise in the engine. I was planning to take it apart clean it all good, new oil, new injectors, add new fuel filter, change the air filter, basicly due a complete tune up, and then try to run it. What would you recommend I do?
I have found that it is easier to leave the ground connected because it has no voltage flowing through it where as the positive has voltage and could cause a short. Best thing to do is disconnect both cables if you are not sure. This is how I do it. Thanks
I think the reason for removing the negative first is because if your wrench is on the positive and you hit the chassis you could cause a short... just so people know why generally it's best to remove negative first.
He's testing the resistance of the glow plug. Multimeter is set to ohms Ω. Hes looking for under 1 ohm. If the test shows no reading at all, you probably have a broken glow plug or its a gas engine lmao.
Resistance in a nutshell is how easily current flows through a circuit. Or is the oposition to current flow... Usually associated with the heat that diff components put out. If the heat is constant in a component on average then it will give a consistent ohm or resistance value. Thus, many diffetent components we deal with such as glow plugs by their design will giv a consistent ohm value when measured. Therefore we research the component we are dealing with and find its ohm value and compare it with actual findings. The ohm symbol "Ω" represents standing of name for greek god omega. Many people confuse ohms with continuity which is indeed not the same while ohms refers to resistance or oposition of current while continuity checks for a loop in current or continuation of a circuit/conductor hence the word continuity deriveable from the word continue(s)
Best way to test glow plugs is to go ahead and remove them from the engine. Why? Because it gives you an oppertunity t check all associated connections as well as clean them. Its easiest also to use one cable of a set of jumper cables and connect one end to the pos battery terminal and other end bite the glow plug with the clamp then touch the ground part of the plug on the neg battery terminal and it should begin to glow
Taking them out is good but some people don't want to go through the hassle of taking all the wires and nuts off just to have issues putting everything back together when a quick test will give you the results your looking to find.
"...test glow plugs...remove them from the engine." Well, that's a good way to test them, IF your intention is to have an hobby, rather than have something done! Totally non sense! My clients would "love" if I charged accordingly just to test glow plugs like that. Do you remove the wheels from your car to check the tire pressure? LOL 😂
@@crpth1 of course I wouldn't remove tires to check air pressure but I would remove them to fix a leak!!! Your way of testing glow plugs although hasty gives no definitive result and is not even a test it's assumption based on probability based on the result of a multimeter or test light and you've still not shown and definitely havent PROVED the glow plug is good by doing a simple continuity/ohm test....all too often I've seen glow plugs, heating elements and spark plugs reduced to nothing but molten slag running down the cylinder walls and still show continuity to a multimeter or test light but since you don't remove your glow plugs you can't rule them out as the culprit of a "no start" scenario, you can only assume they're good based on the probability factor that if it shows continuity it's good. There's only one problem in your method and that is that "assuming and probability" aren't definitive....so remember, when your "clients" ask if you've tested the glow plugs (your way)as the culprit and you say yes, then basically you've given them false or untrue information sir, that is based on your methodology..... What I'm suggesting is the notion that when you've removed the glow plugs completely you've basically proven beyond the Shadow of a doubt that the glow plugs and all of their components are good by way of disassembly and furthermore...reassembly sir, which would you rather pay to have done sir? A definitive method of testing? Or an assumption based on probability based on the result of a continuity test which in essence proves nothing more than there is continuity between the engine block and the positive side of the plug that might just be a melted heap inside but you'll never know will you? But I will and I believe that good and proven definitive testing practices and methods are Paramount when calling one's self "a good technician" pertaining to the ways of "professional diagnostics" but I guess in a nutshell that's the difference between you and myself....no disrespect intended I just base my diagnostics on more concrete evidence than assumption is all, besides, an efficient technician should tear down, test and reinstall an 8 cylinder glow plug system in about an hour...and don't forget to apply anti-seize compound
It looks like they can't be rebuilt. What I just read says they don't made replacement parts for that pump. If I were you I would still look around before purchasing a new unit.
Hey Lonnie, I have been having a weird issue with my Kubota BX1850. It will be running fine then out of nowhere start to sputter, idle way down, start shaking like its going to stall, and then the issue is gone. I found your video here because I was thinking maybe a bad glow plug? Would a glow plug cause an issue like this?
If it was the glow plug it would do it all the time. It sounds like you have water in the filter. You should have a water separator fuel filter. I would check the filter.
Please don't use a visegrips use a 8mm deep well socket please I have done this several times im not a professional but I do know my way around a engine and tools Hope this helps you
I don't know what your looking at but these fasteners are round. No 8mm socket is going to work. Pliers will bugger them up so vise grips are the tool of choice.
Ok man all I know is on mine it was 8mm I'm not trying to cause a problem but mine were and still are 8mm I. Sorry to disturb u really I am all im saying is for me I have ruined things with vise grips thats all
Yes your right, pliers and vise grips will damage bolts. I don't like to use them unless I have too. Its all good. I don't know if these fasteners are stock or not.
*On the matter of:* … _You should always disconnect the negative cable before removing the positive cable_ I am an experienced Shade Tree ~ no matter what you do any spark anywhere near the battery is often capable of producing ignition which is instantaneous probably … any detonation is usually faster than any human + result is beyond what I can post on you tube within public safety allowance > de-energize anything you can think of and modern design may pull a draw even with switch of on some contemporary equipment thus removal of one of the cables distant from the battery is best-choice with detaching the negative likely safer than detaching +
Check the battery and fuses first and what I would do next is trace the wire from the glow plugs all the way back to the ignition switch with a meter a section at a time. You should fine power somewhere along that line.
Chris koh I just bought a Kabota B 6000 four-wheel-drive little older diesel tractor I decided I was going to remove the glow plugs and replaced it with brand new ones I had to take off whatever that is right beside the plugs might be injectors and I had to loosen the lines actually take the diesel fuel lines off and pull them ejector things out of their holes to get plugs to go back in got it all put back together I must have the wires that connect the two glow plugs together Touchin some metal smoke shot out like hell and it won’t start any more,,, i’ve got to have that whole entire engine rebuilt I knew that when I bought it however now it is going to have to be rebuilt a lot sooner probably cost three or $4000 moral of the story if you need anything like that done to that little thing take it to Kabota dealer I love my little two cylinder B6000 and I’ll fix it no matter what it costs however I believe I’m through working on it I’ll let the Kabota dealership have at it
william foreman these glow plugs are all hooked together, that’s not your problem and did nothing to cause you to have to rebuild the engine. Probably what happened was you had the positive wire on your glow plug shorted to the engine block. The outside of the glow plug and the inside of the glow plug represents the hot wire and the ground wire. You probably blew a fuse on burned up the starting wiring some where
@@william38022- The electrical short circuit and engine rebuild are totally different things. Not related at all. Based on your description I would first check the electrical circuit effected (fuses, wires, etc.). Side note, not much to check in the B6000 they are pretty simple workhorses. ;-) With that done and out of the way. BLEED the diesel circuit properly. That´s almost sure where your non start issue is hiding. ;-) Cheers
Omfg the comments what a bunch of keyboard warriors " disconnect the ground first" blah blah.. you can barely light diesel with a match. Clearly not many of the viewers have been in a rush to get the tractor moving while hays getting wet
Never never ever unhook your positive battery cable first always unhook the ground cable first if there is a spark when unhooking or hooking the ground cable back up it will go to the ground. If there is a spark on the positive side it goes to your electrical system and can burn thinks up and it’s even worse when computers are involved
@@LonnieJohnson1 if you take the ground wire off first the only thing you have to worry about touching your tools on is the positive post if you take the positive wire off first you have to worry about your tools touching everything around it but you do you
@@LonnieJohnson1All great tractors will have a master battery disconnect switch, they are always to ground. I believe current in a DC circuit always flows from neg to pos, that's why DC welders have a choice of pos or neg grand🤔
The only problem is you failed to tell the uneducated how and why. No info on the multimeter as what selection you were using, and no explanation as to why you found the readings good. Nice try but you seriously missed the mark.
If you are that uneducated you should not touch an electrical meter. Severe harm can come to someone who watches a RUclips video and thinks that makes them an electrician. This video is for someone who already knows how to use a meter but has never worked on diesel glow plugs, DUH. Good on you Lonnie.
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Good video, very explanatory. Next show what your setting was on your meter for someone that hasn’t used one.
Thanks, at 1:48 you can see the reading on the meter.
He meant what setting you are using on the meter. I went to full screen but could not make it out.
I put it on 200 ohm. Look for the icon that looks like a horse shoe.
“We’ve got a worsher and a lock worsher .” lol 😂 good video saves time for the ppl that would take them out and jumped them to see if they get hot.
Thanks
thanks for the video. I just bought a kubota L2500 tractor made in 2000.
It starts but the guy told me the engine had gotten some water in it and it made a noise in the engine. I was planning to take it apart clean it all good, new oil, new injectors, add new fuel filter, change the air filter, basicly due a complete tune up, and then try to run it. What would you recommend I do?
Complete tune up
You should always disconnect the negative cable before removing the positive cable
I have found that it is easier to leave the ground connected because it has no voltage flowing through it where as the positive has voltage and could cause a short. Best thing to do is disconnect both cables if you are not sure. This is how I do it. Thanks
I think the reason for removing the negative first is because if your wrench is on the positive and you hit the chassis you could cause a short... just so people know why generally it's best to remove negative first.
Tim Buchanan that's correct and you should always connect the negative last for the same reason.
Why ?
@@timmybuchanan if your an idiot yes remove both geez the video is not how to remove battery cables
Yes, what was your meter set on, and what told you what number to look for, need more details.
200 ohm and I looked at the glow plug specs to see what was good and bad. You can also pull it up on RUclips.
He's testing the resistance of the glow plug. Multimeter is set to ohms Ω. Hes looking for under 1 ohm. If the test shows no reading at all, you probably have a broken glow plug or its a gas engine lmao.
Resistance in a nutshell is how easily current flows through a circuit. Or is the oposition to current flow... Usually associated with the heat that diff components put out. If the heat is constant in a component on average then it will give a consistent ohm or resistance value. Thus, many diffetent components we deal with such as glow plugs by their design will giv a consistent ohm value when measured. Therefore we research the component we are dealing with and find its ohm value and compare it with actual findings. The ohm symbol "Ω" represents standing of name for greek god omega. Many people confuse ohms with continuity which is indeed not the same while ohms refers to resistance or oposition of current while continuity checks for a loop in current or continuation of a circuit/conductor hence the word continuity deriveable from the word continue(s)
Best way to test glow plugs is to go ahead and remove them from the engine. Why? Because it gives you an oppertunity t check all associated connections as well as clean them. Its easiest also to use one cable of a set of jumper cables and connect one end to the pos battery terminal and other end bite the glow plug with the clamp then touch the ground part of the plug on the neg battery terminal and it should begin to glow
Taking them out is good but some people don't want to go through the hassle of taking all the wires and nuts off just to have issues putting everything back together when a quick test will give you the results your looking to find.
"...test glow plugs...remove them from the engine."
Well, that's a good way to test them, IF your intention is to have an hobby, rather than have something done!
Totally non sense! My clients would "love" if I charged accordingly just to test glow plugs like that. Do you remove the wheels from your car to check the tire pressure? LOL 😂
@@crpth1 of course I wouldn't remove tires to check air pressure but I would remove them to fix a leak!!! Your way of testing glow plugs although hasty gives no definitive result and is not even a test it's assumption based on probability based on the result of a multimeter or test light and you've still not shown and definitely havent PROVED the glow plug is good by doing a simple continuity/ohm test....all too often I've seen glow plugs, heating elements and spark plugs reduced to nothing but molten slag running down the cylinder walls and still show continuity to a multimeter or test light but since you don't remove your glow plugs you can't rule them out as the culprit of a "no start" scenario, you can only assume they're good based on the probability factor that if it shows continuity it's good. There's only one problem in your method and that is that "assuming and probability" aren't definitive....so remember, when your "clients" ask if you've tested the glow plugs (your way)as the culprit and you say yes, then basically you've given them false or untrue information sir, that is based on your methodology..... What I'm suggesting is the notion that when you've removed the glow plugs completely you've basically proven beyond the Shadow of a doubt that the glow plugs and all of their components are good by way of disassembly and furthermore...reassembly sir, which would you rather pay to have done sir? A definitive method of testing? Or an assumption based on probability based on the result of a continuity test which in essence proves nothing more than there is continuity between the engine block and the positive side of the plug that might just be a melted heap inside but you'll never know will you? But I will and I believe that good and proven definitive testing practices and methods are Paramount when calling one's self "a good technician" pertaining to the ways of "professional diagnostics" but I guess in a nutshell that's the difference between you and myself....no disrespect intended I just base my diagnostics on more concrete evidence than assumption is all, besides, an efficient technician should tear down, test and reinstall an 8 cylinder glow plug system in about an hour...and don't forget to apply anti-seize compound
Thank you! Working on a 950
Your welcome
Would you know where I can get a parts listing for my 2 cylinder Zexel pump?
Dose it have a number anywhere on it?
It looks like they can't be rebuilt. What I just read says they don't made replacement parts for that pump. If I were you I would still look around before purchasing a new unit.
Hey Lonnie, I have been having a weird issue with my Kubota BX1850. It will be running fine then out of nowhere start to sputter, idle way down, start shaking like its going to stall, and then the issue is gone. I found your video here because I was thinking maybe a bad glow plug? Would a glow plug cause an issue like this?
If it was the glow plug it would do it all the time. It sounds like you have water in the filter. You should have a water separator fuel filter. I would check the filter.
What's a "worsher"? O_o
Slang
Please don't use a visegrips use a 8mm deep well socket please I have done this several times im not a professional but I do know my way around a engine and tools Hope this helps you
I don't know what your looking at but these fasteners are round. No 8mm socket is going to work. Pliers will bugger them up so vise grips are the tool of choice.
Ok man all I know is on mine it was 8mm I'm not trying to cause a problem but mine were and still are 8mm I. Sorry to disturb u really I am all im saying is for me I have ruined things with vise grips thats all
Yes your right, pliers and vise grips will damage bolts. I don't like to use them unless I have too. Its all good. I don't know if these fasteners are stock or not.
*On the matter of:* … _You should always disconnect the negative cable before removing the positive cable_ I am an experienced Shade Tree ~ no matter what you do any spark anywhere near the battery is often capable of producing ignition which is instantaneous probably … any detonation is usually faster than any human + result is beyond what I can post on you tube within public safety allowance > de-energize anything you can think of and modern design may pull a draw even with switch of on some contemporary equipment thus removal of one of the cables distant from the battery is best-choice with detaching the negative likely safer than detaching +
Didn't need too I was just checking the ohms. They don't get hot until you turn on the key. but thanks for the info.
@@LonnieJohnson1
This was for the non-informed;
I realize that you are a mech;
Yes
Thanks
Your welcome
Im getting no power to glow plugs what would you check from there?
Check the battery and fuses first and what I would do next is trace the wire from the glow plugs all the way back to the ignition switch with a meter a section at a time. You should fine power somewhere along that line.
Chris koh I just bought a Kabota B 6000 four-wheel-drive little older diesel tractor I decided I was going to remove the glow plugs and replaced it with brand new ones I had to take off whatever that is right beside the plugs might be injectors and I had to loosen the lines actually take the diesel fuel lines off and pull them ejector things out of their holes to get plugs to go back in got it all put back together I must have the wires that connect the two glow plugs together Touchin some metal smoke shot out like hell and it won’t start any more,,, i’ve got to have that whole entire engine rebuilt I knew that when I bought it however now it is going to have to be rebuilt a lot sooner probably cost three or $4000 moral of the story if you need anything like that done to that little thing take it to Kabota dealer I love my little two cylinder B6000 and I’ll fix it no matter what it costs however I believe I’m through working on it I’ll let the Kabota dealership have at it
william foreman these glow plugs are all hooked together, that’s not your problem and did nothing to cause you to have to rebuild the engine. Probably what happened was you had the positive wire on your glow plug shorted to the engine block. The outside of the glow plug and the inside of the glow plug represents the hot wire and the ground wire. You probably blew a fuse on burned up the starting wiring some where
@@william38022- The electrical short circuit and engine rebuild are totally different things. Not related at all.
Based on your description I would first check the electrical circuit effected (fuses, wires, etc.). Side note, not much to check in the B6000 they are pretty simple workhorses. ;-)
With that done and out of the way. BLEED the diesel circuit properly. That´s almost sure where your non start issue is hiding. ;-)
Cheers
@@william38022 Loose nut behind the steering wheel caused it !
Omfg the comments what a bunch of keyboard warriors " disconnect the ground first" blah blah.. you can barely light diesel with a match. Clearly not many of the viewers have been in a rush to get the tractor moving while hays getting wet
It's not like gas.
Never never ever unhook your positive battery cable first always unhook the ground cable first if there is a spark when unhooking or hooking the ground cable back up it will go to the ground. If there is a spark on the positive side it goes to your electrical system and can burn thinks up and it’s even worse when computers are involved
Positive comes off first so I don't ground out my tools and cause a spark.
@@LonnieJohnson1 if you take the ground wire off first the only thing you have to worry about touching your tools on is the positive post if you take the positive wire off first you have to worry about your tools touching everything around it but you do you
Thanks
I agree completely
@@LonnieJohnson1All great tractors will have a master battery disconnect switch, they are always to ground. I believe current in a DC circuit always flows from neg to pos, that's why DC welders have a choice of pos or neg grand🤔
Woresure 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Slang fursure
The only problem is you failed to tell the uneducated how and why. No info on the multimeter as what selection you were using, and no explanation as to why you found the readings good. Nice try but you seriously missed the mark.
This is how to perform a check to make sure they are good and you will have to look up the number. As far as the multimeter, yes I missed that one.
@@LonnieJohnson1 The Number! Where?
What do you mean?
If you are that uneducated you should not touch an electrical meter. Severe harm can come to someone who watches a RUclips video and thinks that makes them an electrician. This video is for someone who already knows how to use a meter but has never worked on diesel glow plugs, DUH. Good on you Lonnie.
I agree