@@argentmastermindm5935 funny you ask about these jackets as I have tested them all. Das light is the lightest and packs smallest, Oreus is definitely warmer for a little extra weight. Nuclei is very similar yet without the metallic element of the aetherm. So once again Oreus feels warmer and warmer quicker. The cirrus ultra is nearly 200g (35%) heavier and possibly a little warmer, however it's not 35% warmer than the Oreus for sure. The cirrus ultra has more pockets etc, also has stitched through baffles so has potential to let in some wind. The Oreus feels more like something you would take no matter what as so light and protective. The Cirrus feels less like a belay jacket but maybe cosier sat on a campsite etc due to the extra size. As the oreus is thinner it could be used under a shell if needed where as the extra bulk of the cirrus ultra means that would be hard to do. Hope this helps, maybe a comparison video is needed! Come and try them all on!!
@@OutsideHathersage thanks so much for this thorough answer! A comparison video which showcases best use scenarios would be much appreciated🤩 Love your videos! Greetings from 🇳🇴
Has any testing been done regarding how those metallic elements within the insulating material interact with avalanche transceivers? There seems to be a pattern with brands like ME and Rab adding them to their jackets and they seem ro do a great job with heat retention but I've been wondering gow they affect the accuracy of such devices
Love your reviews. Always something to learn. I’m considering the Oreus jacket as a jacket for breaks, for emergencies when I can’t get off the mountain, and possibly have to spend the night in my bothy bag. And of course if I get a little chilly. Now I already have a few synthetic jackets, (equipment has a tendency to accumulate over the years). However, I’m always looking for smaller and lighter, but also warmer options. Yeah, I know I’m a gear junky, but I’m usually on my own in the mountains, and have no one to depend on, except myself and my equipment. Not getting any younger either, so every breakthrough in equipment helps. Do you think the Oreus jacket would fit the bill? ATB from Norway 🇳🇴
@@p.richter9592 thanks so.much for you comment. The Oreus is pretty much the best in class for your needs. The best warmth to weight ratio synthetic jacket I've used.
@@robbiemayhew certain feels fully windproof and I would it is definitely more of a belay jacket than a layering piece. I used in in scottish winters quite a lot and so impressed with it's warmth to weight ratio.
Nice jacket but they need better colours. They should start with most popular colours like Black, and Navy blue. If they do I'd buy two right off the bat.
@@petertrout7866 they do navy blue and we stock it. Look forward to your order 😀 www.outside.co.uk/climbing-gear/climbing-clothing/climbing-jackets/insulated-climbing-jackets/mountain-equipment-oreus-insulated-jacket-m.html#
Hi James met you a couple of times in store at Hathersage and always give good advice about what I was after (Tupilak bottoms last time!) I have a Rab generator for winter belays for places like Cairngorms etc, would you say this would suffice for a cold windy Cairngorms day with it being lighter and less bulky? I do love the alpine generator but it is bulky
@@jimfisher7727 hi Jim 👋, glad you're happy with your kit. I have used the Oreus (a long with many others) in scottish winters and been very pleased with how warm it is. I think I would be close to being as warm as the generator alpine but not as robust as the face fabric is thinner. But the pack size and weight is far better, so prefer it. Also I rarely climb in my belay jacket so don't need it mega tough. Hope this helps !
@@owengee7415 not really, totally under stand it's limitations. If I ever end up climbing in it I would take care but nearly always only wear it for belaying. Obviously the Fitzroy is more durable but heavier. On the big peaks the atheles have worn it under shells at certain times when really cold. Hope this helps.
@@OutsideHathersage another point that isnt usually mentioned about synthetics is that if they do tear you dont have to worry as much about losing your insulation to the wind, like with down. can patch it then sew it later.
I use Buffalo kit have done for 25 odd years has never let me down and saves the need for too many extra layersI normally just pack a wee Rab Microlight Down jkt to throw on when I stop for the eve under shelter,Buffalo you either love or hate,bit outdated but does what it says on the tin so to speak
@@phil1953 buffalo is great and works well. Twice the weight of an Oreus however very different products. If you do need anything new the is Oreus would be a good replacement for the Microlight as lighter, warmer and better in the damp. However, only if needed! Keep gear going! 👍
A few questions come to mind: 1. How many grams of Aetherm does ME use in the Oreus? 2. Will they offer the Oreus in any other (brighter / better) colors? 3. Will they ever release the Oreus in a non-hooded version? 4. Are there any Oreus pants on the horizon? Thank you!
@@cbgny23 1. I will get back to you! 2. No other colours due for at least a year 3. Again, no for at least a year but they make a vest without a hood. 4. Not yet, altough I think they will expand the use of Aetherm as they are so pleased with it
Can't escape the fact synthetic insulation introduces more microplastics into the environment. They are also not a renewable source like natural insulation we get from animals (wool, down feathers etc) but made from oil. As people who use and enjoy the outdoors consumers have a degree of responsibility. Don't get me wrong I still have gear with synthetic insulation (and use it) but more and more I find myself opting away from it for these reasons.
@@DukeandDrummond very valid point and we all need to think about our consumption. It's not perfect but this jacket is nearly all made of recycled materials
For Eco-friendliness, I'd rather be asking about durability of the insulation. From the past for example Primaloft Gold was an example of a great insulation that lost its properties rather quickly.
This is over simplified and takes an alarmist approach to microplastics, at the moment we don't have a clear understanding of the health and environmental impacts of microplastics. An equally valid argument could be made against any animal products such as down and wool due to the environmental impact the animals have, depending on how you calculate the fibres impact you cna come to whatever conclusion is most convenient for your argument. There is also plenty of research and products already out using bio derived and bio degradable polymers. Don't write anything off, and to be frank, try not to have too strong of an opinion in this area, if you do have one most likely misinformed to some extent. At the moment the research is still in its infancy and needs more time to give any clear answers.
There is also the issue of animal welfare. While down is durable and «natural», it requires animal exploitation. Live plucking and traceability is still a challenge. Future technology will hopefully solve the problems related to oil dependence and microplastics.
So how does this compare to the Rab Cirrus Ultra? Which is the more versatile? Or the Arcteryx Nuclei FL or Pategonia DAS Light?
Yes, that would be very interesting to know.
@@argentmastermindm5935 funny you ask about these jackets as I have tested them all.
Das light is the lightest and packs smallest, Oreus is definitely warmer for a little extra weight.
Nuclei is very similar yet without the metallic element of the aetherm. So once again Oreus feels warmer and warmer quicker.
The cirrus ultra is nearly 200g (35%) heavier and possibly a little warmer, however it's not 35% warmer than the Oreus for sure.
The cirrus ultra has more pockets etc, also has stitched through baffles so has potential to let in some wind.
The Oreus feels more like something you would take no matter what as so light and protective. The Cirrus feels less like a belay jacket but maybe cosier sat on a campsite etc due to the extra size.
As the oreus is thinner it could be used under a shell if needed where as the extra bulk of the cirrus ultra means that would be hard to do.
Hope this helps, maybe a comparison video is needed!
Come and try them all on!!
@@OutsideHathersage thanks so much for this thorough answer! A comparison video which showcases best use scenarios would be much appreciated🤩 Love your videos! Greetings from 🇳🇴
@@argentmastermindm5935 will try and find time to sort this 👍
@@OutsideHathersage Do you know if ME intends to use this new insulation in a wider range of products, something a bit beefier like the Fitzroy?
Has any testing been done regarding how those metallic elements within the insulating material interact with avalanche transceivers? There seems to be a pattern with brands like ME and Rab adding them to their jackets and they seem ro do a great job with heat retention but I've been wondering gow they affect the accuracy of such devices
@@AngelGiannakos wow! Very interesting question. Honestly don't know the anwser so I'll get back to you.
And there is a answer?
Thanks @OutsideHathersage
Love your reviews. Always something to learn. I’m considering the Oreus jacket as a jacket for breaks, for emergencies when I can’t get off the mountain, and possibly have to spend the night in my bothy bag. And of course if I get a little chilly. Now I already have a few synthetic jackets, (equipment has a tendency to accumulate over the years). However, I’m always looking for smaller and lighter, but also warmer options. Yeah, I know I’m a gear junky, but I’m usually on my own in the mountains, and have no one to depend on, except myself and my equipment. Not getting any younger either, so every breakthrough in equipment helps. Do you think the Oreus jacket would fit the bill? ATB from Norway 🇳🇴
@@p.richter9592 thanks so.much for you comment. The Oreus is pretty much the best in class for your needs. The best warmth to weight ratio synthetic jacket I've used.
@@OutsideHathersage Great! Thanks. I really think I have to check out the Oreus 👍🏻👍🏻🇳🇴
Would this not be a perfect jacket for fast packing or the winter spine race?
@@davebrown1100 someone came and bought one for exactly that yesterday! So yes!
James, as you said you did use it as a belay jacket, did you size up or stick to the same size as the shell it went over?
@@nicholasgalpin6711 yes I sized up, they come up small if wearing over a shell. I'm using xl yet all my other clothes are large. I hope this helps
@@OutsideHathersage thanks for the swift response!
Great review! Is the shell fabric completely windproof? Looking for this to be a belay jacket, as opposed to a breathable insulation piece. Cheers!
@@robbiemayhew certain feels fully windproof and I would it is definitely more of a belay jacket than a layering piece. I used in in scottish winters quite a lot and so impressed with it's warmth to weight ratio.
Nice jacket but they need better colours. They should start with most popular colours like Black, and Navy blue. If they do I'd buy two right off the bat.
@@petertrout7866 they do navy blue and we stock it. Look forward to your order 😀 www.outside.co.uk/climbing-gear/climbing-clothing/climbing-jackets/insulated-climbing-jackets/mountain-equipment-oreus-insulated-jacket-m.html#
Hi James met you a couple of times in store at Hathersage and always give good advice about what I was after (Tupilak bottoms last time!) I have a Rab generator for winter belays for places like Cairngorms etc, would you say this would suffice for a cold windy Cairngorms day with it being lighter and less bulky? I do love the alpine generator but it is bulky
@@jimfisher7727 hi Jim 👋, glad you're happy with your kit. I have used the Oreus (a long with many others) in scottish winters and been very pleased with how warm it is. I think I would be close to being as warm as the generator alpine but not as robust as the face fabric is thinner. But the pack size and weight is far better, so prefer it. Also I rarely climb in my belay jacket so don't need it mega tough. Hope this helps !
It does indeed appreciate the reply, definitely food for thought! @@OutsideHathersage
For a winter belay jacket does the 10d face concern you at all?
@@owengee7415 not really, totally under stand it's limitations. If I ever end up climbing in it I would take care but nearly always only wear it for belaying. Obviously the Fitzroy is more durable but heavier. On the big peaks the atheles have worn it under shells at certain times when really cold. Hope this helps.
@@OutsideHathersage another point that isnt usually mentioned about synthetics is that if they do tear you dont have to worry as much about losing your insulation to the wind, like with down. can patch it then sew it later.
I use Buffalo kit have done for 25 odd years has never let me down and saves the need for too many extra layersI normally just pack a wee Rab Microlight Down jkt to throw on when I stop for the eve under shelter,Buffalo you either love or hate,bit outdated but does what it says on the tin so to speak
@@phil1953 buffalo is great and works well. Twice the weight of an Oreus however very different products. If you do need anything new the is Oreus would be a good replacement for the Microlight as lighter, warmer and better in the damp. However, only if needed! Keep gear going! 👍
A few questions come to mind:
1. How many grams of Aetherm does ME use in the Oreus?
2. Will they offer the Oreus in any other (brighter / better) colors?
3. Will they ever release the Oreus in a non-hooded version?
4. Are there any Oreus pants on the horizon?
Thank you!
@@cbgny23 1. I will get back to you!
2. No other colours due for at least a year
3. Again, no for at least a year but they make a vest without a hood.
4. Not yet, altough I think they will expand the use of Aetherm as they are so pleased with it
Love the jacket, hate the colours, like more subdued colours
@@mikel6517 it comes in a navy blue too!
Can't escape the fact synthetic insulation introduces more microplastics into the environment. They are also not a renewable source like natural insulation we get from animals (wool, down feathers etc) but made from oil. As people who use and enjoy the outdoors consumers have a degree of responsibility. Don't get me wrong I still have gear with synthetic insulation (and use it) but more and more I find myself opting away from it for these reasons.
@@DukeandDrummond very valid point and we all need to think about our consumption. It's not perfect but this jacket is nearly all made of recycled materials
On the other hand, a lot of people are allergic to down (even if they don’t know it sometimes) which reduces the reasonable options.
For Eco-friendliness, I'd rather be asking about durability of the insulation. From the past for example Primaloft Gold was an example of a great insulation that lost its properties rather quickly.
This is over simplified and takes an alarmist approach to microplastics, at the moment we don't have a clear understanding of the health and environmental impacts of microplastics. An equally valid argument could be made against any animal products such as down and wool due to the environmental impact the animals have, depending on how you calculate the fibres impact you cna come to whatever conclusion is most convenient for your argument. There is also plenty of research and products already out using bio derived and bio degradable polymers.
Don't write anything off, and to be frank, try not to have too strong of an opinion in this area, if you do have one most likely misinformed to some extent. At the moment the research is still in its infancy and needs more time to give any clear answers.
There is also the issue of animal welfare. While down is durable and «natural», it requires animal exploitation. Live plucking and traceability is still a challenge. Future technology will hopefully solve the problems related to oil dependence and microplastics.
Microplastics aren’t a thing
@@andrewstorm8240 they certainly are, do you want me to link you a few studies?
@@sebastianflynn1746 please do