Brilliant jacket and vest. I've basically lived in mine for the past year - Scottish winter climbing, belaying at cold crags, resting between boulder attempts and Norwegian big walls.
The Oreus Jacket looks superb with your amazing new synthetic insulation technology. Unfortunately I cannot afford it but will look out for this technology in Sperflux or Frostline (down replacement) type jackets. I am trying to save up for one of those. Thankyou for the great insightful video.
Which down jacket from our catalogue can this jacket be compared to in terms of warmth? You say that during testing your athletes left their light down jackets at home in favour of this one. Which down jackets have they replaced?
Is the inner pocket of the jacket independent of the outer pocket like in the Fitzroy or is it attached to the outer pocket like in the Kryos or Xeros jackets? If I put a water bottle inside and I want to put my hands in the outer pocket, does the bottle stay behind my hand without getting in the way or does it get in the way of my hand and the bottle stays in front of my hand like in the Kryos or Xeros? (Terrible design error)
what is the weight of the insulation in terms of GSM? i cant see this info in the tech specs for the jacket. i jmagine you wont tell me, as i assume there is a reason you have not included. i apprecite GSM isnt necessarily the only barometer for warmth but it's usually a good indicator. what im really interested in is how this stacks up against a Nuclei Fl, in terms of warmth...?
GSM isn't the most useful metric of measurement for comparison in this case because the construction is so different to most of the synthetic fills out there, including those we use ourselves. We'd obviously prefer not to get into direct comparisons with competitor products but we've done a lot of lab testing and are extremely confident that Aetherm is appreciably warmer for its weight than anything comparable that's currently out there. In terms of our own range a lot of testing in the mountains shows the Oreus to be slightly less warm than our Fitzroy but it warms up faster, is lighter, more breathable and more compressible. This said the Fitzroy would, for most people, remain a better choice as an outer layer in really severe conditions thanks to its more Gore-Tex Infinium shell, stiffer insulation and more protective cut.
@@gnarshar not sure why you can't see it (I don't fully understand the RUclips comments model but it shows as a highlighted reply from ME for myself). I'll copy below @mountainequipment3607 GSM isn't the most useful metric of measurement for comparison in this case because the construction is so different to most of the synthetic fills out there, including those we use ourselves. We'd obviously prefer not to get into direct comparisons with competitor products but we've done a lot of lab testing and are extremely confident that Aetherm is appreciably warmer for its weight than anything comparable that's currently out there. In terms of our own range a lot of testing in the mountains shows the Oreus to be slightly less warm than our Fitzroy but it warms up faster, is lighter, more breathable and more compressible. This said the Fitzroy would, for most people, remain a better choice as an outer layer in really severe conditions thanks to its more Gore-Tex Infinium shell, stiffer insulation and more protective cut.
I would still like a GSM rating because its a good indicator of how heavy the jacket is excluding the fill.. I'm keen to try one of these jackets though (I might wait for more reviews) and noted somebody said it was quite a bit warmer than a das light which are now 350 grams.
Brilliant jacket and vest. I've basically lived in mine for the past year - Scottish winter climbing, belaying at cold crags, resting between boulder attempts and Norwegian big walls.
How are you finding the longevity of the insulation? Has there been any noticeable decrease in the loft so far?
@@edwardjones3887 I haven't noticed a change.
‼️ People are incredible ‼️
The Oreus Jacket looks superb with your amazing new synthetic insulation technology. Unfortunately I cannot afford it but will look out for this technology in Sperflux or Frostline (down replacement) type jackets. I am trying to save up for one of those. Thankyou for the great insightful video.
In colour black would be even better
Which down jacket from our catalogue can this jacket be compared to in terms of warmth? You say that during testing your athletes left their light down jackets at home in favour of this one. Which down jackets have they replaced?
If it conquers MontBell's Plasma 1000 jacket for warmth, then it's priced OK. It's 2x heavier though
Damn, I wish this came in your hi-vis Cardinal color! Any thoughts / plans to make a non-hooded jacket version?
Would this jacket be as a midlayer under a GTX Pro jacket as warm as the Fitzroy jacket without an extra hardshell?
Is the inner pocket of the jacket independent of the outer pocket like in the Fitzroy or is it attached to the outer pocket like in the Kryos or Xeros jackets? If I put a water bottle inside and I want to put my hands in the outer pocket, does the bottle stay behind my hand without getting in the way or does it get in the way of my hand and the bottle stays in front of my hand like in the Kryos or Xeros? (Terrible design error)
what is the weight of the insulation in terms of GSM? i cant see this info in the tech specs for the jacket. i jmagine you wont tell me, as i assume there is a reason you have not included. i apprecite GSM isnt necessarily the only barometer for warmth but it's usually a good indicator. what im really interested in is how this stacks up against a Nuclei Fl, in terms of warmth...?
GSM isn't the most useful metric of measurement for comparison in this case because the construction is so different to most of the synthetic fills out there, including those we use ourselves. We'd obviously prefer not to get into direct comparisons with competitor products but we've done a lot of lab testing and are extremely confident that Aetherm is appreciably warmer for its weight than anything comparable that's currently out there. In terms of our own range a lot of testing in the mountains shows the Oreus to be slightly less warm than our Fitzroy but it warms up faster, is lighter, more breathable and more compressible. This said the Fitzroy would, for most people, remain a better choice as an outer layer in really severe conditions thanks to its more Gore-Tex Infinium shell, stiffer insulation and more protective cut.
thanks so much for taking the time to respond, I do appreciate it
@@nb0171what was the response ?
@@gnarshar not sure why you can't see it (I don't fully understand the RUclips comments model but it shows as a highlighted reply from ME for myself). I'll copy below
@mountainequipment3607
GSM isn't the most useful metric of measurement for comparison in this case because the construction is so different to most of the synthetic fills out there, including those we use ourselves. We'd obviously prefer not to get into direct comparisons with competitor products but we've done a lot of lab testing and are extremely confident that Aetherm is appreciably warmer for its weight than anything comparable that's currently out there. In terms of our own range a lot of testing in the mountains shows the Oreus to be slightly less warm than our Fitzroy but it warms up faster, is lighter, more breathable and more compressible. This said the Fitzroy would, for most people, remain a better choice as an outer layer in really severe conditions thanks to its more Gore-Tex Infinium shell, stiffer insulation and more protective cut.
I would still like a GSM rating because its a good indicator of how heavy the jacket is excluding the fill.. I'm keen to try one of these jackets though (I might wait for more reviews) and noted somebody said it was quite a bit warmer than a das light which are now 350 grams.