I have one and love it to bits! Probably my most used electrical/electronics tool. It sees hard use every day but shows very little signs of wear. It makes my life easier and that itself alone is a very good thing!
This and a video by south main auto are great reviews of the pp4! I bought mine with the ect3000 and leads in a “master” kit. Came with all the leads minus the 5v adapter for automotive computer circuits.
Travis, in answer to your question about voltage being good. Think of a battery cable. If you were to sever all strands but one, you would have perfect continuity from one end to the other. You could apply voltage to one end and read the same voltage at the other end. Voltage is the potential pressure to push electrons through a circuit, not the measurement of work. But would that same cable be able to support the current load when placed into a circuit? Voltage drop testing measures how much the voltage drops under a loaded condition, in other words a live functioning circuit. When testing a live circuit, you should read your source voltage prior to the load device, whether it is a lamp, a motor, etc., and there should be no voltage left over after the load device, IF there is no resistance other than your load device. Voltage is the POTENTIAL to do work. I hope this helps.
Thumbs up, subscribed and enjoyed your video!!! I just read the entire manual again today. Been working on a 2000 Vette getting the complete wiring harness replaced after the car sat for 10 years and squirrels chewed everything chewable under the entire car. The PPIV has been an awesome help all along the way. Thanks!!!!!
Please, Please don't shorten/edit your videos, you might leave something out important to someone watching. remember we we can always fast foreword or rewind.This is the greatest unbox & review on the PP4. GREAT job Todd, keep up the good work!!! you sold me I'm buying one Today! maybe Power Probe should give you a kickback on sales you helped make over the web. I agree with Tow Guy on the =/- ON THE BACK.
great video…there were a surprising number of bad reviews citing malfunctions and breakdowns on Amazon when I was buying…ended up getting a different brand that seems an exact duplicate-love the tool!
Thanks for the review Todd. I'm thinking about a PP4 myself. One easy and effective way to lower, but still hear, the buzzer is to put a piece of tape over the speaker. I recommend tape like painters or masking as they hold up pretty well and don't leave a nasty sticky residue. If, after putting the tape over the speaker it's not loud enough for you, you can poke some small holes in the tape until you get the level you like.
Good choice. You will like it, I'm sure. I use mine all the time. The more you use it the more features you will understand how best to use and when to use the tool. Review the manual and watch other videos so you get the most use of the tool.
Hi Todd First, thanks for the review. I recently bought the PP4 and In most points I agree 100% with You and up front: I love the tool! Now the Logo will always be a thumbs down. More important: 1) the fuel injector feature is to say it nicely, useless! The only uuseful information is that there is control from the PCM, BUT I need to see the current ramp (with the pintle dip for opening and the steepnees of the ramp to see any shorting of the coil) and the Voltage curve with the pintle hump in order to know the pintle opens and closes. For this, there is no way around my Picoscope, nice try Powerprobe guys. 2) I agree concerning the ground plug. It always gets caught in tight spaces ..... my car has lots of them. My choice would have been to add a rechargeable battery and both cables unplugable so if I just want to use it as a Voltmeter in the rear of my car, unplug the supply and use the groundwire and You have a "mobile" Volt/Ohmmeter. More to come.
Aloha, with an electronics background dating back into the 60's this was the best review I have seen yet. It was a logical review with those of us who think electronics theory logic. It just goes to show that us old farts can learn from you youngsters. Mahalo Nui Loa for sharing. He pomaika`i `ia mai ke Akua
Thank you for this very informative video. Wasn't over the top and in my opinion a must watch video for someone just starting out using the power probe. Thanks again and keep up the great work!!
I am thinking the plus and minus on the back is to tell you the right direction of the power up switch when using the tool facing the wrong way. Just a safety not to run positive when you need neg. when holding the tool face down. Just my guess.
+Tow guy I out out my PP4 this morning and tested to see if your idea worked and made sense. It sure does. I was easy to see the +/- but I had good lighting. If I was doing this in the darker condition on a car it would be much harder to see the +/- on the black rubber. Just the same I'm sure that is the reason for them now. Thanks.
+buildstoys Thanks. I was looking at the "Hook" but after comparing the features set, application notes and review on Amazon it was clear I would be able to use it as well as the IV for general automotive repairs. I might get the ECT2000 if I don't just build a simple 8v 4K Hz signal of my own just to see how the IV picks it up.
Great review ..... beats power probes videos by a mile . I am waiting in antisipation of seeing you put in real life use on a car. Keep up the great videos
+dcbigsky Glad you liked the video. I have had needed to use my power probe iv many times since this video however it is always on my Jeep daily driver which can't be delayed to setup and shoot videos. I have an old 97 F150 that I'm going over real slow to bring it up to fully working condition. I'm trying to get a few videos on it as the PP4 is needed. Next will be showing how to use a DVM to work on a mirror switch and how much easier and thorough of a job doing the diagnostics using the PP4. I can get such a video in the can easy but it can take weeks before I get time to edit and upload. :( Editing can take about 8 times as long as shooting the video. Strange but true. Stay tuned!
+Todd Harrison (ToddFun) I hear you man. Great review. Yes. Video editing sure takes a long time! I've half finished your review while some video was processing. lol
In addition to my previous post: 3) for Voltage drop tests the circuit MUST be loaded. Does PP4 do that? I thought that only LoadPro can do this (I have that too, and it works well too) 4) the AC modes might be nice but for complete test of my Battery, Starter and Alternator the Picoscope cannot be replaced at all. So there is room for improvement, maybe PP5 :-) But I bought mine to use the VDC feature so I have 2 Voltmeters available to directly compare with the battery power and ground and more important I can supply good battery voltage or ground at any place around the car, and for that it is PERFECT. Also a big plus is that they use the standard Banana style plugs so I can use all the plugs and wires that I already have, with it. Sincerely, Bernhard Btw., I also ordered it with the second tip to use on the ground wire.
+Bernhard List Maybe the PP5 will have more features but it sounds like your picoscope would be tough act to follow. I ran some tests on my bench. The PP4 pulls a 15mA DC test current for the voltage drop test. The green light and buzzer signaling a good power source comes on if it reads less than 10 ohms. As the load resistance goes up the current drops and when my 10 turn pot reached 1K the current was down to 8mA DC. So yes it is a loaded test and it will only buzz good if there is less than 10 ohms of line resistance to the tip.
+Todd Harrison (ToddFun) Wow, interesting. I have to see how the LoadPro is doing that, how much of a load he is putting on a circuit for his test. Btw., this is a great tool too if You don't want the long cable behind You for a quick test. Greetings
Yeah, that Power Probe logo is truly dreadful, it initially deterred me from any interest in the device until I realised through reviews that it is actually a very good instrument. So, this video decided me on which version I needed and the suitable test leads, however, when I went to the company website I was shocked to find that the PP IV seems to have been discontinued!! I had planned to buy it in a few months but the discovery that it might not be available for much longer provoked me to visit Amazon. Fortunately it was still listed there, so I ordered all three items immediately. So congrats on the vid, good to get proper info from someone who obviously understands electronics. No disrespect to mechanic type vids on this product but they rarely get into the guts of the subject and often spend too long rambling about the appearance, and other such trivia. Might be worth a follow up vid on how you've found it over the time it's been in use, durability, reliability etc.
Thanks for the kind comments. It has held up great. I have popped the ground fuse that is in the ground wire a few times being stupid. It is still my go to tool for all electrical tests. I should make a follow up video or just another use video and comment on the reliability which has been great.
Great informative review......you only briefly mention the HOOK ....would be great to have a more detailed rundown on the differences between the PP4 and the HOOK
True, there are a lot of differances. So much that the Hook really doesn't have the value that it cost. A few tricks the Hook does make it very handy but for not for the price and not for general shade tree mechanics. But if I ever get a Hook I will do the video. Thanks for the support and the suggestion.
Thanks....Power Probe have a 50% off deal on the HOOK at the moment which makes it $50.00 cheaper than the PP4...that was the reason behind my earlier question
Well I do see the 50% off on the Hook but that means it still cost ~$250 which is $100 more than the PPV per my amazon store link in the show notes. I think the 50% off goes to show you that this product isn't all that they think and hipped it up to be. It has a few tricks but I still don't see the value in it for the price plus the PPV is just smaller and much easier to use and meet the 90% off the same tricks an auto-mechanic needs.
@@ToddFun That “10%” is money and time in my pock. I have been using the Hook for 5 years, with a really good lead set that also fits my DVM and scope, it paid for itself many years ago. But a DIY person is better of with the 3 [ which I also have ] or 4 until they learn advanced diagnostics and have access to wiring diagrams. DIY’s, learn your tool before you use it as any tool can cause issues if used wrong.
Good review Todd, my question is when you are at the vehicle testing the power window circuit, is it the pp4 or the video that seems to have a time delay, nearly 2-3 seconds after you let off the power window button until the tester reacts?
+Dave H Yes, there is a delay of about 2 seconds there. Part of the delay is that there is a window motor relay in the vehicle that has to enable/disable as well as the test delay of the PP4. But for sure there is a test delay in this resistance measurement mode of the PP4 unlike the default PP4 mode where it is simply testing for power or ground present.
I get them off Amazon. I keep a link in my Amazon store for easy reference if you like to use my link it helps fund my channel and doesn't cost you anything. astore.amazon.com/tod0f5-20/detail/B0050DNTPU astore.amazon.com/tod0f5-20/detail/B0050DNTNW
PP3 doesn't have all the same features and the PP3 has a shorter cord. Unless you are trying to save the money I would recommend the PP4 over the PP3. The PP4 is not much different in size than the PP3. The Power Prob Hook is a much bulkier tool and I wouldn't recommend looking at the Hook.
The last scope I reviewed on my channel would work. But a hand held would be better really. However I haven't used any hand helds so I wouldn't know the best for automotive work.
The hand held are usually 1 channel and you can get things done with them but capture and play back seem lacking. 2 channels is best so you can monitor 2 funtions. Do you plan getting the Power Probe Hook?
Hi, im new with all of that, so a question : if I need to check THE FUSES, which mode i need to put the power probe 4 ? VDC ? DRV TST ? or ?? which one ? thank you
The extension for the 3 is $19 and the extension for the 4 is $115. I looked and two of the 3 leads for $38 and a little knife work on the some of the ends can connect in it's place. Do you see or know of any reason why this wouldn't work to save everyone $72 to get an extension for the new 4?
+Shawn Dickens Good idea really. It will work just fine if you get the polarity correct on both ends (no accidental crossovers) and can hack the plastic connectors to fully engage. You give up the clean single cable feature as well as the clean plugin of a single connector but it sure would save a lot of $.
I'll most likely leave it always connected and there are many ways to tie the lines together like one for those savings. I just wasn't sure if there is more to it since when I first connected mine it wouldn't power up because it was just a couple mm short of fully coupled.
I hate that they changed the cable connector from 2 leads to 4 leads on this version. I have pp3 with an extra cable but if get the new pp4 i won't be able to use it.
True however the PP4 does have a longer cable out of the box than the PP3 so you shouldn't need the extra cable unless you are working something real like long RVs or something.
+Travis Heinze A DMM volt meter has ~10M ohms input resistance so a connection can read good voltage to a DMM but when you put a low ohm load on and start to pull current through the poor connection the connection fails, resistance can drift up, the connection can heat a little causing a poor solder joint to expand and many other strange conditions can cause a failed load test. The battery itself may drop out under load even. These are all different then a simple high ohm input voltage test.
A positive battery cable going to a starter motor that is almost severed , leaving ONLY one strand of copper wire will STILL read 12 volts . Try to start the car and the amp load - current - will NOT pass through that one strand . Why are battery cables heavier than other wires ? The amperage needs all that copper to get to the starter ( load device ) . It will heat or burn through that ONE strand of copper . The heavier the amp load , the heavier the wire . A 30 amp fuse is thicker than a 5 amp fuse .
Not really. You would want something that can meter DC amps (uA, mA and A) and put such a tester in series with the circuit you think has a parasitic draw when all expected loads are disconnected or off. I guess you could use the PP4 to look for voltage drops in a circuit and once you get on the other side of such a parasitic load you should notice more voltage drop with respect to the battery source showing. That is kind of like looking for parasitic loads but not by finding current loads and I don't think it would be easy nor would it tell you the scale of the parasitic current load like and DC amp meter.
maestro espero me ayude q equipo es mejor para probar señales de ecu y pulsos de inyección el snap on eect900 o el power probe 4 por favor espero su respuesta
Sólo la sonda Prower 4 es todo lo que necesita para estas pruebas. Usted necesitará las agujas de la punta de prueba y las sondas del percing son agradables para golpear ligeramente en alambres de la señal como visto en mi otra revisión en accessorys. Ver mi lista de reproducción en la sonda de potencia 4: ruclips.net/video/t5AKT3rXLQg/видео.html
maestro disculpe por molestarlo estoy dicidiendo q herramienta comprar si el power probe 4 o el power probe hook lo ocupare para ver pulsos de inyeccion,señal de ecu y cortos en harneses del automovil por favor usted cual me recomienda
Tendría que conectar el Power Probe 4 y el ECT2000 a los cortometrajes. El Power Probe 4 hará la señal de inyección de combustible por pulso por sí mismo. Pero necesita la Power Probe ECT2000 para hacer un seguimiento y búsqueda cortos.
29:33 too bad they don't display the feed current when testing components like that. It would have been useful information. as a workaround you could put an separate ammeter in series with the ground clip, but it would have been better as an all in one tool.
hello good day i ask you a question, how much is that device in the united states? I'm writing fron here in URUGUAY I'm very interested in acquiring that device I thank you for your prompt response And I'm sorry for some spelling mistakes Best regards from URUGUAY vERY CAREFULLY HECTOR BRUN
I know, stupid. I can get so OCD about that strangest things sometime. Good video over all though? I have a play list if you care to comment. ruclips.net/p/PL40clH-yZ7fkOl3xIC0cSSV8aUxajAWtt
Dee Bassman I believe he meant to say power probe 4, and he's right, there are 0 good videos on the power probe 4. That said, I haven't watched all the way through this video.....
There are garages and dealerships that will fire you for piercing the insulation of a wire. It introduces moisture and crap that will corrode the wire and it's unnecessary.
I've heard that too. Well, not much of an issue really because if you think of it all the ends of each wire are exposed so if a tiny pin hole would cause such a problem then should all the wire ends also be corroding back up the wires and destroying the connector ends? Doesn't seem to happen so maybe this is just an exposure issues. That is if the exposure spot is highly corrosive like with salts and water then any connection or pin hole will cause an issue. So if your're careful you should be fine, but still don't do this at a dealership for sure.
Sad :( Why is that? If you email me your address I'll get a price and shipping to send one to you. you can put the cash in my paypal account and if it is legal I can have it shipped to you. Is it legal? I don't know such things, you might have to pay vat taxes or import taxes or some other kind of junk. I don't know. My email is in the "about me" tab at www.toddfun.com
Shouldn't be any amps when readying volts. A volt meter is by definition a high impedance input device. But to your point, maybe the input impedance isn't high enough to be save. That would be really strange if somehow true.
+Lenz Brown BE VERY CAREFUL IF YOU ARE PLANNING ON PURCHASING THIS TOOL!!! I have and I am very disappointed. There is no support and the ground testing side of the tool fails. It has caused me to mis-diagnose certain faults concerning the ground or neutral test. I sent them emails at their site but no response.
707SonomaComa I have the power probe II so I just continued to use that. I did get in contact with them but never got any answer concerning the tool, so I figure they want me to purchase a new one. Are you having the same neutral ground problem?
I have one and love it to bits! Probably my most used electrical/electronics tool. It sees hard use every day but shows very little signs of wear. It makes my life easier and that itself alone is a very good thing!
That itself alone together.
This is one of the best tool tests I've seen to date. It was definitely the thing that had me purchase the Power Probe IV. Thanks, Todd.
This and a video by south main auto are great reviews of the pp4! I bought mine with the ect3000 and leads in a “master” kit. Came with all the leads minus the 5v adapter for automotive computer circuits.
Travis, in answer to your question about voltage being good. Think of a battery cable. If you were to sever all strands but one, you would have perfect continuity from one end to the other. You could apply voltage to one end and read the same voltage at the other end. Voltage is the potential pressure to push electrons through a circuit, not the measurement of work. But would that same cable be able to support the current load when placed into a circuit? Voltage drop testing measures how much the voltage drops under a loaded condition, in other words a live functioning circuit. When testing a live circuit, you should read your source voltage prior to the load device, whether it is a lamp, a motor, etc., and there should be no voltage left over after the load device, IF there is no resistance other than your load device. Voltage is the POTENTIAL to do work. I hope this helps.
Thumbs up, subscribed and enjoyed your video!!! I just read the entire manual again today. Been working on a 2000 Vette getting the complete wiring harness replaced after the car sat for 10 years and squirrels chewed everything chewable under the entire car. The PPIV has been an awesome help all along the way. Thanks!!!!!
Please, Please don't shorten/edit your videos, you might leave something out important to someone watching. remember we we can always fast foreword or rewind.This is the greatest unbox & review on the PP4. GREAT job Todd, keep up the good work!!! you sold me I'm buying one Today! maybe Power Probe should give you a kickback on sales you helped make over the web. I agree with Tow Guy on the =/- ON THE BACK.
great video…there were a surprising number of bad reviews citing malfunctions and breakdowns on Amazon when I was buying…ended up getting a different brand that seems an exact duplicate-love the tool!
Thanks for the review Todd. I'm thinking about a PP4 myself. One easy and effective way to lower, but still hear, the buzzer is to put a piece of tape over the speaker. I recommend tape like painters or masking as they hold up pretty well and don't leave a nasty sticky residue. If, after putting the tape over the speaker it's not loud enough for you, you can poke some small holes in the tape until you get the level you like.
+Baxrok2 Great idea! I'm going to do that as it is too loud for me unless the car is running. Thanks.
Very useful review. You helped me decide on the PP4 when I was originally going for the PP3.
Good choice. You will like it, I'm sure. I use mine all the time. The more you use it the more features you will understand how best to use and when to use the tool. Review the manual and watch other videos so you get the most use of the tool.
Hi Todd
First, thanks for the review. I recently bought the PP4 and In most points I agree 100% with You and up front:
I love the tool!
Now the Logo will always be a thumbs down.
More important:
1) the fuel injector feature is to say it nicely, useless! The only uuseful information is that there is control from the PCM, BUT I need to see the current ramp (with the pintle dip for opening and the steepnees of the ramp to see any shorting of the coil) and the Voltage curve with the pintle hump in order to know the pintle opens and closes. For this, there is no way around my Picoscope, nice try Powerprobe guys.
2) I agree concerning the ground plug. It always gets caught in tight spaces ..... my car has lots of them. My choice would have been to add a rechargeable battery and both cables unplugable so if I just want to use it as a Voltmeter in the rear of my car, unplug the supply and use the groundwire and You have a "mobile" Volt/Ohmmeter.
More to come.
I bought the 3 because I figured I'd still use the shops oscilloscope for the injectors, cam and crank sensors, and MAF.
Aloha, with an electronics background dating back into the 60's this was the best review I have seen yet. It was a logical review with those of us who think electronics theory logic. It just goes to show that us old farts can learn from you youngsters. Mahalo Nui Loa for sharing. He pomaika`i `ia mai ke Akua
Really appreciate it Todd. Mine should arrive today and I was just trying to get a head start on its use. Thanks again.
Hope it helped. I do have other videos on PP4 linked in the show notes.
Excellent review and demo. Just what I needed to understand my PP4. Power probe should hire you
+Dan D Thanks ;)
Thank you for this very informative video. Wasn't over the top and in my opinion a must watch video for someone just starting out using the power probe. Thanks again and keep up the great work!!
Thanks xxFarm
Good explanation of the power probe 4 with real life testing examples. Great look forward to more testing.
Thanks for the kind words. I will as I run into automotive circuit issues.
I am thinking the plus and minus on the back is to tell you the right direction of the power up switch when using the tool facing the wrong way. Just a safety not to run positive when you need neg. when holding the tool face down. Just my guess.
+Tow guy best suggestion to date. Thanks.
+Tow guy I out out my PP4 this morning and tested to see if your idea worked and made sense. It sure does. I was easy to see the +/- but I had good lighting. If I was doing this in the darker condition on a car it would be much harder to see the +/- on the black rubber. Just the same I'm sure that is the reason for them now. Thanks.
Great review Todd. I own the Power Probe 3 and ECT2000 - invaluable tools.
+buildstoys Thanks. I was looking at the "Hook" but after comparing the features set, application notes and review on Amazon it was clear I would be able to use it as well as the IV for general automotive repairs. I might get the ECT2000 if I don't just build a simple 8v 4K Hz signal of my own just to see how the IV picks it up.
Great review ..... beats power probes videos by a mile . I am waiting in antisipation of seeing you put in real life use on a car. Keep up the great videos
+dcbigsky Glad you liked the video. I have had needed to use my power probe iv many times since this video however it is always on my Jeep daily driver which can't be delayed to setup and shoot videos. I have an old 97 F150 that I'm going over real slow to bring it up to fully working condition. I'm trying to get a few videos on it as the PP4 is needed. Next will be showing how to use a DVM to work on a mirror switch and how much easier and thorough of a job doing the diagnostics using the PP4. I can get such a video in the can easy but it can take weeks before I get time to edit and upload. :( Editing can take about 8 times as long as shooting the video. Strange but true. Stay tuned!
+Todd Harrison (ToddFun) I hear you man. Great review. Yes. Video editing sure takes a long time! I've half finished your review while some video was processing. lol
Thanks for the great review! Gonna have to add a power probe 4 to my toolbox soon!
Good idea! Use my link if you get it off Amazon and I get a few credits. Thanks.
I think it's just the plus is facing towards the test probe in your wires the negative
In addition to my previous post:
3) for Voltage drop tests the circuit MUST be loaded. Does PP4 do that? I thought that only LoadPro can do this (I have that too, and it works well too)
4) the AC modes might be nice but for complete test of my Battery, Starter and Alternator the Picoscope cannot be replaced at all.
So there is room for improvement, maybe PP5 :-)
But I bought mine to use the VDC feature so I have 2 Voltmeters available to directly compare with the battery power and ground and more important I can supply good battery voltage or ground at any place around the car, and for that it is PERFECT.
Also a big plus is that they use the standard Banana style plugs so I can use all the plugs and wires that I already have, with it.
Sincerely,
Bernhard
Btw., I also ordered it with the second tip to use on the ground wire.
+Bernhard List Maybe the PP5 will have more features but it sounds like your picoscope would be tough act to follow. I ran some tests on my bench. The PP4 pulls a 15mA DC test current for the voltage drop test. The green light and buzzer signaling a good power source comes on if it reads less than 10 ohms. As the load resistance goes up the current drops and when my 10 turn pot reached 1K the current was down to 8mA DC. So yes it is a loaded test and it will only buzz good if there is less than 10 ohms of line resistance to the tip.
+Todd Harrison (ToddFun)
Wow, interesting. I have to see how the LoadPro is doing that, how much of a load he is putting on a circuit for his test. Btw., this is a great tool too if You don't want the long cable behind You for a quick test.
Greetings
I'm looking at getting this so this video and others teaching how to use it, is very helpful. thank you
Glad to be of help Richard!
Yeah, that Power Probe logo is truly dreadful, it initially deterred me from any interest in the device until I realised through reviews that it is actually a very good instrument. So, this video decided me on which version I needed and the suitable test leads, however, when I went to the company website I was shocked to find that the PP IV seems to have been discontinued!! I had planned to buy it in a few months but the discovery that it might not be available for much longer provoked me to visit Amazon. Fortunately it was still listed there, so I ordered all three items immediately. So congrats on the vid, good to get proper info from someone who obviously understands electronics. No disrespect to mechanic type vids on this product but they rarely get into the guts of the subject and often spend too long rambling about the appearance, and other such trivia. Might be worth a follow up vid on how you've found it over the time it's been in use, durability, reliability etc.
Thanks for the kind comments. It has held up great. I have popped the ground fuse that is in the ground wire a few times being stupid. It is still my go to tool for all electrical tests. I should make a follow up video or just another use video and comment on the reliability which has been great.
Great informative review......you only briefly mention the HOOK ....would be great to have a more detailed rundown on the differences between the PP4 and the HOOK
True, there are a lot of differances. So much that the Hook really doesn't have the value that it cost. A few tricks the Hook does make it very handy but for not for the price and not for general shade tree mechanics. But if I ever get a Hook I will do the video. Thanks for the support and the suggestion.
Thanks....Power Probe have a 50% off deal on the HOOK at the moment which makes it $50.00 cheaper than the PP4...that was the reason behind my earlier question
Well I do see the 50% off on the Hook but that means it still cost ~$250 which is $100 more than the PPV per my amazon store link in the show notes. I think the 50% off goes to show you that this product isn't all that they think and hipped it up to be. It has a few tricks but I still don't see the value in it for the price plus the PPV is just smaller and much easier to use and meet the 90% off the same tricks an auto-mechanic needs.
@adrian vac PP4
@@ToddFun That “10%” is money and time in my pock. I have been using the Hook for 5 years, with a really good lead set that also fits my DVM and scope, it paid for itself many years ago. But a DIY person is better of with the 3 [ which I also have ] or 4 until they learn advanced diagnostics and have access to wiring diagrams. DIY’s, learn your tool before you use it as any tool can cause issues if used wrong.
Real world review. Seriously, thanks!
Thanks! glad to share what I learned and found out about the product.
Good review Todd, my question is when you are at the vehicle testing the power window circuit, is it the pp4 or the video that seems to have a time delay, nearly 2-3 seconds after you let off the power window button until the tester reacts?
+Dave H Yes, there is a delay of about 2 seconds there. Part of the delay is that there is a window motor relay in the vehicle that has to enable/disable as well as the test delay of the PP4. But for sure there is a test delay in this resistance measurement mode of the PP4 unlike the default PP4 mode where it is simply testing for power or ground present.
Great Review!! Your amazon store front links are down. When will they be back up?
Sorry, Amazon took down all agent stores. :(
But thanks for trying to support my channel :)
hi todd, great vid! I liked and subscribed! so where do you get your back probing tips/leads, thanks for the info. I have the green pp4
I get them off Amazon. I keep a link in my Amazon store for easy reference if you like to use my link it helps fund my channel and doesn't cost you anything.
astore.amazon.com/tod0f5-20/detail/B0050DNTPU
astore.amazon.com/tod0f5-20/detail/B0050DNTNW
How does this compare to the Power Probe 3? Any reason to purchase the 3 instead of the 4? Is it much bulkier?
PP3 doesn't have all the same features and the PP3 has a shorter cord. Unless you are trying to save the money I would recommend the PP4 over the PP3. The PP4 is not much different in size than the PP3. The Power Prob Hook is a much bulkier tool and I wouldn't recommend looking at the Hook.
Hey great vid Todd!
Can you recommend a good cheap oscilloscope for automotive work with capture and playback?
The last scope I reviewed on my channel would work. But a hand held would be better really. However I haven't used any hand helds so I wouldn't know the best for automotive work.
The hand held are usually 1 channel and you can get things done with them but capture and play back seem lacking. 2 channels is best so you can monitor 2 funtions.
Do you plan getting the Power Probe Hook?
Hi, im new with all of that, so a question :
if I need to check THE FUSES, which mode i need to put the power probe 4 ?
VDC ? DRV TST ? or ?? which one ? thank you
The default setting. VDC
The extension for the 3 is $19 and the extension for the 4 is $115. I looked and two of the 3 leads for $38 and a little knife work on the some of the ends can connect in it's place. Do you see or know of any reason why this wouldn't work to save everyone $72 to get an extension for the new 4?
+Shawn Dickens Good idea really. It will work just fine if you get the polarity correct on both ends (no accidental crossovers) and can hack the plastic connectors to fully engage. You give up the clean single cable feature as well as the clean plugin of a single connector but it sure would save a lot of $.
I'll most likely leave it always connected and there are many ways to tie the lines together like one for those savings. I just wasn't sure if there is more to it since when I first connected mine it wouldn't power up because it was just a couple mm short of fully coupled.
I hate that they changed the cable connector from 2 leads to 4 leads on this version. I have pp3 with an extra cable but if get the new pp4 i won't be able to use it.
True however the PP4 does have a longer cable out of the box than the PP3 so you shouldn't need the extra cable unless you are working something real like long RVs or something.
Does the PP4 'Feed Test' feature eliminate the need to purchase the LoadPro?
Yes, I would say so. But you can't have too many cool tools ;)
No I'm pretty sure it doesn't
great review
How can something have good voltage, but still not be any good? It seems that whatever resistance you experience would also lower voltage too.
+Travis Heinze A DMM volt meter has ~10M ohms input resistance so a connection can read good voltage to a DMM but when you put a low ohm load on and start to pull current through the poor connection the connection fails, resistance can drift up, the connection can heat a little causing a poor solder joint to expand and many other strange conditions can cause a failed load test. The battery itself may drop out under load even. These are all different then a simple high ohm input voltage test.
A positive battery cable going to a starter motor that is almost severed , leaving ONLY one strand of copper wire will STILL read 12 volts . Try to start the car and the amp load - current - will NOT pass through that one strand . Why are battery cables heavier than other wires ? The amperage needs all that copper to get to the starter ( load device ) . It will heat or burn through that ONE strand of copper . The heavier the amp load , the heavier the wire . A 30 amp fuse is thicker than a 5 amp fuse .
hey Todd, can we test parasitic draw with this? thanks
Not really. You would want something that can meter DC amps (uA, mA and A) and put such a tester in series with the circuit you think has a parasitic draw when all expected loads are disconnected or off. I guess you could use the PP4 to look for voltage drops in a circuit and once you get on the other side of such a parasitic load you should notice more voltage drop with respect to the battery source showing. That is kind of like looking for parasitic loads but not by finding current loads and I don't think it would be easy nor would it tell you the scale of the parasitic current load like and DC amp meter.
Ok thank you so much
Very good review.
+Tom OConnor Thanks. I have a few more usage videos as I get time to make them.
maestro espero me ayude q equipo es mejor para probar señales de ecu y pulsos de inyección el snap on eect900 o el power probe 4 por favor espero su respuesta
Sólo la sonda Prower 4 es todo lo que necesita para estas pruebas. Usted necesitará las agujas de la punta de prueba y las sondas del percing son agradables para golpear ligeramente en alambres de la señal como visto en mi otra revisión en accessorys. Ver mi lista de reproducción en la sonda de potencia 4: ruclips.net/video/t5AKT3rXLQg/видео.html
Todd Harrison gracias maestro
maestro disculpe por molestarlo estoy dicidiendo q herramienta comprar si el power probe 4 o el power probe hook lo ocupare para ver pulsos de inyeccion,señal de ecu y cortos en harneses del automovil por favor usted cual me recomienda
Tendría que conectar el Power Probe 4 y el ECT2000 a los cortometrajes. El Power Probe 4 hará la señal de inyección de combustible por pulso por sí mismo. Pero necesita la Power Probe ECT2000 para hacer un seguimiento y búsqueda cortos.
maestro para usted q equipo es mejor power probe 4 o power probe hook
went to the link for the PP4 user manual and the company had taken it down.
So true! Thanks. Looks like all their pages have changed. I have updated my links to their new URLs.
did you ever find out for sure what the usb is for
I did not but I'm sure it would be for firmware updates if needed.
29:33 too bad they don't display the feed current when testing components like that. It would have been useful information. as a workaround you could put an separate ammeter in series with the ground clip, but it would have been better as an all in one tool.
True but in feet test it does read ohms and volts so I=V/R
Thanks for this great video.
+Tariq Awan Sure thing. Glad to share and I hope it helps.
Damn the price is 254 now on amazon, i just found one practically brand new at a pawn show for 190
True they are going up in value. I see a green one on Amazon for under $200 amzn.to/2UUwYof
@@ToddFun that might be a black friday sale cause it says original 254
hello good day i ask you a question, how much is that device in the united states? I'm writing fron here in URUGUAY I'm very interested in acquiring that device I thank you for your prompt response And I'm sorry for some spelling mistakes Best regards from URUGUAY vERY CAREFULLY HECTOR BRUN
Currently it is $165 on Amazon: astore.amazon.com/tod0f5-20/detail/B00NPY02EW
thank you very much! Bye bye Italy (Turin)
Welcome and glad to help. Bye.
you spent over a minute talking about that sticker. wow.
I know, stupid. I can get so OCD about that strangest things sometime. Good video over all though? I have a play list if you care to comment. ruclips.net/p/PL40clH-yZ7fkOl3xIC0cSSV8aUxajAWtt
How could you say the other videos on the power probe 3 aren't that good? Check yours out buddy
Dee Bassman I believe he meant to say power probe 4, and he's right, there are 0 good videos on the power probe 4. That said, I haven't watched all the way through this video.....
good video amigo exselente video
There are garages and dealerships that will fire you for piercing the insulation of a wire. It introduces moisture and crap that will corrode the wire and it's unnecessary.
I've heard that too. Well, not much of an issue really because if you think of it all the ends of each wire are exposed so if a tiny pin hole would cause such a problem then should all the wire ends also be corroding back up the wires and destroying the connector ends? Doesn't seem to happen so maybe this is just an exposure issues. That is if the exposure spot is highly corrosive like with salts and water then any connection or pin hole will cause an issue. So if your're careful you should be fine, but still don't do this at a dealership for sure.
Not available in the uk
Sad :( Why is that? If you email me your address I'll get a price and shipping to send one to you. you can put the cash in my paypal account and if it is legal I can have it shipped to you. Is it legal? I don't know such things, you might have to pay vat taxes or import taxes or some other kind of junk. I don't know. My email is in the "about me" tab at www.toddfun.com
I just want the scooby doo van on the shelf lol
I have two, one is used for parts. I need to get the other back in service as it is working now.
Can this probe send out five volts
powerprobe = 0 customer support...
You have a good point. I can't disagree. I love the tool however.
No customer support?
Is there another tool that does the same thing as this one that would be a better option? How about the Power Probe 3?
707SonomaComa they don't fix there probe if you fubar it you are made to buy a replacement probe instead of fixing what you had ...
PP3 doesn't have all the same features and the PP3 has a shorter cord. Unless you are trying to save the money I would recommend the PP4 over the PP3.
Patrick
how did it get fubar'd? Did the internal circuit breaker fail to protect it on an attempt to source power?
id imagine it the amps and not the volt in a 120
Shouldn't be any amps when readying volts. A volt meter is by definition a high impedance input device. But to your point, maybe the input impedance isn't high enough to be save. That would be really strange if somehow true.
subscribed
Thanks!
Todd you do not look like you're having fun.
How and the world he pays $157 for years ago and now its $282.....
You just cut a zip lock bag why not just open it
HA!! I never noticed until you mentioned it and I had to check out the footage to see where. Yup, it was a zip lock alright. HA.
Because he's a man, not a housewife!
chani power prob
I like your video being more thurl
Thanks. I try.
If you like complaining...
They fail
NO SUPPORT AND NO RESPONSE FROM THEIR TECH
+Lenz Brown BE VERY CAREFUL IF YOU ARE PLANNING ON PURCHASING THIS TOOL!!! I have and I am very disappointed. There is no support and the ground testing side of the tool fails. It has caused me to mis-diagnose certain faults concerning the ground or neutral test. I sent them emails at their site but no response.
+Lenz Brown THERE IS ABSOLUTELY NO WAY TO GET IN CONTACT WITH THIS COMPANY
that's normal, they don't even FIX there product they want you to buy another one if yours breaks ..
What happened? Did you ever get in contact with them?
707SonomaComa
I have the power probe II so I just continued to use that. I did get in contact with them but never got any answer concerning the tool, so I figure they want me to purchase a new one.
Are you having the same neutral ground problem?