Excellent project Mike. Boxes are always fun. And they don't take a lot of time. Also they don't take much material. Yours turned out quite well. I really liked your voice-over in the beginning. Frankly I would have liked the video better if you had done voice-over for all of it. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.😀😀
Very nice project, Mike. I think I'll have to make an apple box out of a chunk of spalted maple I've been saving. Allow me a couple of comments. This is NOT a criticism of how you turned the box. Instead, I offer these comments in the spirit of sharing other options. I think all of us benefit from have several different ways of accomplishing a task. It's just nice to have several techniques in our tool belt. First, your discussion of using a wide and then a narrow parting tool reminded me of a demonstration done by Alan Lacer several years ago. He made a small v-cut with a skew and then used a hacksaw, with the lathe running, to part off the lid of box. The advantages of this technique are that it is very quick and it wastes as little wood as possible, making grain match far easier. It's similar to using a bandsaw, but you don't have to take the blank off the lathe. If you use this technique, you need a very stiff hacksaw -- not the cheapest one at the local hardware store. Also, depending on how you have the blade mounted in the hacksaw frame, you may need to run the lathe in reverse for it to cut properly. You also want to pay attention to what you're doing. It's easy to let the hacksaw move away from being perpendicular to the ways of the lathe. For blanks more than 3" in diameter, this is my preferred method of parting off a lid. For a blank less than 2", I'll typically use my narrow parting too (as demonstrated in the video -- including chasing it across the shop). In between those two sizes, which method I'll use will depend on how important grain match is and how easy it is to find my hacksaw. If it's hanging up where it should, that's what I'll use. Second, this blank and project are perfect examples of why I like to stabilize wood at home. I know you tried stabilizing and found it didn't fit in well with the kinds of projects you typically turn. (Things are different in my shop, if only because wood is so much harder to come by in Arizona than it is in Georgia.) Imagine if, after parting off the lid, you rough turned both the lid and body of the box -- leaving about 1" of material on all sides. You could then stabilize both pieces in Cactus Juice. Why might you want to do that? First, it makes a punky blank like this one much easier to turn. The material will take finer details and it the surface will sand evenly. You could even have used a threaded lid on the box. Of course, you demonstrated that a fine result could be obtained without stabilization. So, it's just an option, not a necessity. Second, you could have dyed the blank red (or green). It's possible to dye the raw wood after the turning is done, but with punky wood the dye is taken up unevenly. Too often, the result is a blotchy appearance. That's not the case when the wood is dyed as part of the stabilization process.
Good points. I still need to come up with a new top for my pot as mine was too thin and started to get microfractures. I have seen that hack saw trick on a video somewhere. I will have to try that. Never would have thought about the direction of the teeth. I have tried the bandsaw with a jig but with my coarse blade and not tracking well, I am no better off than using a thin parting tool.
Great project!, if I can ever get to my lathe, I will definitely make one. I'm going to post a link to you vid in the group if that's OK with you. So many little tidbits of info and technique to learn from your videos, this one is exceptional. Your voice and audio was pretty hard to hear at times ...could be my old ears, but the closed caption (CC) really helps. Thanks again Mike!
Neat project Mike, Thanks. One thing I didn’t catch, even going back to around the 20:00 point, was the link to the collet chuck review you mentioned. I pick up a used one (unmarked) that unfortunately does not run true with all of the 5 included collets. Anyway, thanks for the idea for a neat box. Cheers, Tom
The icon that shows the link is probably not available is watch on TV but generally visible on a PC or phone. Here is the video link ruclips.net/video/Gp2ogl0dzyQ/видео.html
This is very cool. I run into issues with getting a section to align when I flip from one end to the other without a lot of waste truing up again. Any advice? Maybe a future video?
Cracking bit of turning Mike, beautiful 👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌😎😎😎😎
Thanks 👍
Nice project. I like the little stem detail drilled at an angle. Good job.
Thanks!
Very cool project Mike. The spalted maple and ebony go together well and the shape is great.
Great looking box Mike. Thanks for sharing the process ideas etc.
Take care my friend
Cheers
Harold
Thanks 👍
Very nice piece!
Thank you kindly!
Enjoyed this very much, thanks!
Glad to hear it!
Excellent project Mike. Boxes are always fun. And they don't take a lot of time. Also they don't take much material. Yours turned out quite well. I really liked your voice-over in the beginning. Frankly I would have liked the video better if you had done voice-over for all of it. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.😀😀
I think you may be right. The sound quality in this one was a bit uneven.
Thanks, Mike!
You're welcome!
Very nice project, Mike. I think I'll have to make an apple box out of a chunk of spalted maple I've been saving.
Allow me a couple of comments. This is NOT a criticism of how you turned the box. Instead, I offer these comments in the spirit of sharing other options. I think all of us benefit from have several different ways of accomplishing a task. It's just nice to have several techniques in our tool belt.
First, your discussion of using a wide and then a narrow parting tool reminded me of a demonstration done by Alan Lacer several years ago. He made a small v-cut with a skew and then used a hacksaw, with the lathe running, to part off the lid of box. The advantages of this technique are that it is very quick and it wastes as little wood as possible, making grain match far easier. It's similar to using a bandsaw, but you don't have to take the blank off the lathe. If you use this technique, you need a very stiff hacksaw -- not the cheapest one at the local hardware store. Also, depending on how you have the blade mounted in the hacksaw frame, you may need to run the lathe in reverse for it to cut properly. You also want to pay attention to what you're doing. It's easy to let the hacksaw move away from being perpendicular to the ways of the lathe.
For blanks more than 3" in diameter, this is my preferred method of parting off a lid. For a blank less than 2", I'll typically use my narrow parting too (as demonstrated in the video -- including chasing it across the shop). In between those two sizes, which method I'll use will depend on how important grain match is and how easy it is to find my hacksaw. If it's hanging up where it should, that's what I'll use.
Second, this blank and project are perfect examples of why I like to stabilize wood at home. I know you tried stabilizing and found it didn't fit in well with the kinds of projects you typically turn. (Things are different in my shop, if only because wood is so much harder to come by in Arizona than it is in Georgia.) Imagine if, after parting off the lid, you rough turned both the lid and body of the box -- leaving about 1" of material on all sides. You could then stabilize both pieces in Cactus Juice. Why might you want to do that? First, it makes a punky blank like this one much easier to turn. The material will take finer details and it the surface will sand evenly. You could even have used a threaded lid on the box. Of course, you demonstrated that a fine result could be obtained without stabilization. So, it's just an option, not a necessity. Second, you could have dyed the blank red (or green). It's possible to dye the raw wood after the turning is done, but with punky wood the dye is taken up unevenly. Too often, the result is a blotchy appearance. That's not the case when the wood is dyed as part of the stabilization process.
Good points. I still need to come up with a new top for my pot as mine was too thin and started to get microfractures. I have seen that hack saw trick on a video somewhere. I will have to try that. Never would have thought about the direction of the teeth. I have tried the bandsaw with a jig but with my coarse blade and not tracking well, I am no better off than using a thin parting tool.
Very nice, Mike.
Glad you like it!
Great project!, if I can ever get to my lathe, I will definitely make one. I'm going to post a link to you vid in the group if that's OK with you. So many little tidbits of info and technique to learn from your videos, this one is exceptional. Your voice and audio was pretty hard to hear at times ...could be my old ears, but the closed caption (CC) really helps.
Thanks again Mike!
Awesome, thank you!
Neat project Mike, Thanks. One thing I didn’t catch, even going back to around the 20:00 point, was the link to the collet chuck review you mentioned. I pick up a used one (unmarked) that unfortunately does not run true with all of the 5 included collets. Anyway, thanks for the idea for a neat box. Cheers, Tom
The icon that shows the link is probably not available is watch on TV but generally visible on a PC or phone. Here is the video link ruclips.net/video/Gp2ogl0dzyQ/видео.html
@@MikePeaceWoodturning Thanks Mike for the link.
Almost looks good enough to eat Mike. Wel done.
Thanks, Jack. It was a beautiul piece of wood.
This is very cool. I run into issues with getting a section to align when I flip from one end to the other without a lot of waste truing up again. Any advice? Maybe a future video?
That's a great idea!
very good
Thanks
love it
Great project but what do you make your abrasive past out of it you don’t mind me asking
I cover it here ruclips.net/video/y-4t7S67-CI/видео.html