Cylinder head PORTING and POLISHING - how to diy guide
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- Опубликовано: 26 авг 2024
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In the video I say "Most of the power comes from properly shaping the short radius" - what is more true is that most power comes from "properly aligning the seats and bowls". The short radius is still very important, so don't overlook anything.
The video above is a simple, condensed how to guide on cylinder head porting and polishing. It is meant for novice and inexperienced porters who want to know what is porting and polishing and how to do it with their own cylinder head. Its sort of a porting a polishing guide for dummies if you will. But it is also detailed and specific and guides the average DIY enthusiast in exactly what, where and how to do what needs to be done in order to increase the airflow and thereby the performance of your cylinder head.
The head in this video is 4age 16v bigport head from the 4age engine from my 1987 Toyota MR2 AW11.
Every cylinder head is different and there are variations in what should be done during a porting and polishing job. The specifics and details of this particular cylinder head porting and polishing job apply best to the 4age bigport head, but the general principles, tools and methods are pretty much the same for any other stage 1 mild porting job and watching this video will give you a better idea of what needs to be done and how much time is needed to successfully perform a porting and polishing job.
Check out my blog for more MR2, 4AGE, DIY, and other content.
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Here's a nice quote from the jafromobile channel:
„There are MANY, and when I say many, I mean thousands of flame war mongering pirates floating around on rough seas with a hair trigger cannon finger itching to fire if you port a head any differently than what the herd mentality says to do while porting a cylinder head„
There is no better way to say it than this. There is no SINGLE RIGHT WAY of porting and polishing a head. Even when it comes to two identical heads (and no two really are). So before posting a hateful comment and telling me I just „ruined my head“ or started the next apocalypse, please have in mind that there are hundreds of different cylinder head applications and dozens of different approaches to porting. The porting and polishing work depends on the particular application of that head.
This is a simple, mild stage 1 porting job for a mild 4age 16v bigport engine build. The goal was to improve airflow without drastically changing the shape of the ports.
What can not be argued against is that improving airflow improves horsepower, torque and mpg. Porting and polishing improves airflow. This can not be argued against. Removing rough and sharp edges in the combustion chamber helps prevent knocking when engine compression is increased. This also can not be argued against. Everything else is the subject of debate so saying that the way someone ported and polished their head is horrible because it varies from what YOU think is right and best is wrong unless that someone used a hammer and chisel to port their head. Please do the research first and if that research objectively proves that something is wrong you are welcome to comment, and even then constructive criticism is far more helpful than insults.
What I have done has not been based on my own theories or knowledge, but on the advice and material from people who have ported dozens of 4age heads and have proven benefits of their work.
This video would not have been possible without the input, advice and help from people who have proven experience of porting 4age and other heads.
So here's a special thanks to OST, without whose advice and help I could not have ported the 4AGE 16v bigport head you see in this video.
Check out his porting services: club4ag.com/for...
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#d4a #diy #porting #portingpolishing #howto #cylinderhead #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16
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Porting and polishing rolls: amzn.to/2BjZ82n
Long reach porting mandrel: amzn.to/35JHAui
Air die grinder: amzn.to/33D4LVp
Air die grinder (cheaper option): amzn.to/2MMvurX
Electrical die grinder if you don't have a compressor: amzn.to/2MHLNGc
maybe one day you'll redo this one with talking. :)
Just a tip that may help you in the future … what I do to protect the valve seats is covering them with masking tape in very small pieces when you add enough layers (takes about an hour for a 16 valve head ) you cannot “nick” the seat or damage it any normal accidental way worst case you may lift a layer of tape and it come right off after words and who doesn’t throughly clean a head after porting
Im even more of a novice than anyone having done none of this work but that was exactly the first thing that came to mind. Or even a sacrificial piece of metal or rubber that sites over the seat. Why risk
This is one part of the project your wife will appreciate!
This is the very definition of a useful RUclips video. Good information, plenty of comments on what's going on, no stupid theatrics & music that doesn't drive you crazy by the end of the video. Great job!
Bloody excellent video.Removes all of the mystique about porting the heads.This is the sort of video that gives you the impetus to get up & give it a go.
The best thing to do is get your seats machined first so you can get your throat percentages correct and blend accordingly. if you do happen to touch the seats it's only a matter of a quick touch up.
The intake SSR should also be straightened up and widened as they're already reaching well over 360fps.
Lastly don't worry about smoothing those intakes, just grab the roughest burr have and blend the whole port using that. EFI or Carbureted does not matter, your fuel isn't being injected directly into the chamber so you will still get pooling but most of all it's about getting your boundary layer correct.
Good for you for having a crack though! most people are too scared to attempt porting
I "think" a comparison on the flow bench, before and after would have been a good idea !!!
@LAD Teknologies If your goal is to increase port flow, flow testing before and after at given valve lift intervals is a standard procedure. Usually without porting it is still important to understand the flow rates to correctly select camshaft and calculate a predictable outcome. Not sure what point you're trying to make here.
@LAD Teknologies wtf are you talking about ? A flow bench will give you the data aka flow numbers at different valve heights , sizes ect ect ….
@@marklowe7431 apparently the person has no idea wtf they are talking about …. Flow benches have been the highway performance industry “standard “for the “truth” between ported heads aside from dyno numbers and *track slips* - which are the real truth behind anything done to increase performance
@@marklowe7431 considering they can’t spell technologies correct tells a lot about their knowledge past their incorrect information in their comment.
Just so you know those edges/lumps on the cylinder head are there for a reason. The idea is to create a controlled turbulent flow, in your case I believe is the a tumble/barrel flow, as the mixture flows into the combustion chamber the mixture follows a tumble flow pattern, creating a circular movement around the X axis. When the piston moves towards TDC in the compression stroke, the radius of that circular flow decreases increasing the angular velocity of the flow. All this turbulence allows the fuel to mix more evenly throughout the cylinder , therefore you will reduce knock and increase the efficiency of your combustion, in other words you will have a bigger bang. Getting rid of those edges is destroying an Engineering piece of work. The reason they are rough is because it costs too much money to get them smooth, so making a smooth surface does help, but do not get rid of the of the edges/lumps like you did when you said you were blending the sharp edges to the combustion chamber. Hope that helps! Cheers
The sharp edges in a performance engine's combustion chamber are very problematic. They end up heating up more and become starting points of pre-ignition and knocking. What was done on the video makes sense.
It really makes sense what you said! Picking that idea of controlled turbulence, one should work in a fashion to create smoother, and better flowing air inside the chamber, neverminding the objective of those lumps. Thats my idea !
@@heikkianttila6296 I believe that getting rid of the edges and just smoothing them up to reduce pointy edges is a good work to be done
7:23 taught me about so much more than just engines
Interesting video. I haven't ported and flowed a cylinder head for 40 years and more and that was for engines used in drag racing. They were full race jobs with the biggest valves possible and all ports enlarged to fit whatever manifolds were being used. When blending the combustion chambers it was always essential to measure the chamber volumes to ensure they were as close as possible identical to ensure compression ratios were equal. Skimming the head after blending the combustion chambers was also essential to bring the compression ratio back to where you wanted it.
I'm not convinced of Stage 1 porting on most modern engines myself because manufacturing on most cars is so good and a little bit of turbulence is good news. 👍
I'm currently enrolled in a 2 year automotive technology program in college. In my Engines lab I'm rebuilding a Chevy Cruze cylinder head and I asked my instructor about porting it. He told me it's not a good idea to polish the intake ports because the roughness helps atomize the fuel coming into the combustion chamber. Of course this is only relevant with port and throttle body injection setups. Very good video though.
What I have understood: the "rough" surface creates little turbulences, creating a layer of low velocity air; the air coming into the engine meets the low velocity layer, and the friction coefficient of the air with air is low so... better flow! Please, correct me if I'm wrong
Greetings from Argentina!
No, the roughness doesn't help with atomization enough to make a difference when it comes to ported vs stock cast. The injector should be doing 99% of the atomization. The increased airflow is only beneficial if you're running larger injectors, you want more efficient duty cycle, or you want a different AFR. Ultimately, it has nothing to do with atomization. That's all the injectors. If anything, porting helps reduce knock which is caused by uneven ignition or pre-ignition. Porting creates a more efficient and better burn. But like the video says...it's time consuming.
Roughness helps atomize fuel in carbureted scenarios. As stated, not so much an issue with fuel injectors.
Great video. I’ve never used all those different grits. 80 thru 120 and will look like a mirror with a last pass of 80 scotch bright pad on a old valve I cut and slit in the middle and slide scotch pad in between🤟🏼
7:23 had me laughing so hard. That short radius looked more like a g spot.😂😂😂😂😂
just dont penetrate your chick with 220 grit
@@benjaminsultani3571 remember if you don’t have a condom use serain wrap , a plastic bag, a rubber glove or even a paper bag but never never ever use TIN FOIL ! tin foil will tear you scrotum !!
thanks to all you guys who make these awesome videos, iam learning more and more about engines the more videos i watch, i always wanted to be an engineer all my life but iam traped with my curen job, i love being around cars and knowing how things work, keep up the good work, and always do what you love in life that way working will never feel like your working
Tony Baily I have a job that has nothing to do with cars, but hey it pays for the car hobby :) Would love to make this my job but until then I'll just try to spend as much of my time doing this :) thank you for your support.
Its worth remembering that you can cause compression differentials by removing different amounts of material from each combustion space. Do one space first completely and take a volume measurement with thin oil and an accurate measuring cylinder. Use this as a reference for the others. Also consider a regrind of the valve seats to a more efficient flow profile 3angle seats or similar. Nice video this and good luck.
I was wondering about that. wouldn't removing even that small amount of material from the combustion chamber lower the compression ratio?
good point. i was thinking the same.
Lowering compression is good, when you're talking about anything but allmotor. You can always add more Boost PSI without worrying that your ratio is going to be off. Because Compression does not equal PSI in boost. You can easily get 10+ psi for 1: compression ratio.
You can start with the valve job nearly finished, shape the combustion chambers, then sink valves as necessary while finishing the valve job in order to achieve chamber volume balance
7:23 dude is literally finger banging his engine
eksine lol
Real engine porn
Could've hit 2 ports at once if he snuck his little finger in...
I call that a missed opportunity.
@@GoForGold256
You should get a MBE for that joke 😂
Take a long strip of sandpaper and pull it through the port and seat to get the short turn easily round and polished. Especially on small displacement engines where you can not get your finger in the port
This is a very good video, but it would be so much better if you touched a bit on why its so important to polish the exhaust ports(to leave nowhere for any carbon to stick to) and to leave the intake as rough as possible(to help with fuel atomozation, at least for NA engines). Great video though
I caught the quote... Hahah! Thanks man. Nice work! Someday you'll get the troll who picks a fight with you about how you folded your sandpaper. When he arrives, you can tell him to FOAD, too. :P
I woke up like a few hours ago and I saw a comment notification with a RUclips icon. I've never seen one of those before. Then I read the contents. Man oh man. I thought long and hard what to reply and how to be really cool, smart and funny, but I got nothing. The fanboy prevailed and this is the result. Whoa! I love your channel man. I watched like 90% of your videos. This video would have never happened without your head porting and polishing video. Thanks for commenting. No, seriously thanks for commenting, I'm so happy you caught the quote, made my day. I'm starting to love the trolls, good laughs with them. Although I still don't get the ones you get (thankfully?), your's are in a league of their own.
Love to see content creators commenting on other's videos. Very cool.
I ported heads professionally and really liked the Jafromobile videos on the subject (and humor). Info out there is usually limited due to porters wanting to keep their trade secrets, well... secret. Your videos offered a very good amount of info for what you want to achieve. I'm happy to see new content on your channel and getting updates all these years later.
@@davidparker9676 it's great, innit? Both videos are highly enjoyable. The sharing of knowledge brings us together!
You can do a lot of that deep fingering with a surrogate finger extension (cloth wrapped round wooden stick/dowel) and or even a built up soft pad wrapped around your rotating shaft...! You need some way of trapping the w&d paper in the right direction, but it helps avoid joint and tendon damage.
Nice video, mate!
I've read that it is better to keep the walls of the intake tract rough to improve the turbulent mixing of fuel and air.
+Michael Lautenschutz It all depends on the engine and application. You do have a point but rough intake to help fuel atomisation is a better idea on carburatted engines rather than fuel injected ones.
driving 4 answers aha! Just like you said there's a method for every application :)
My bike has relatively long rubber intake boots from the carbs and a longer intake tract than my Miata. I see the logics.
If your worried about removing too much material, or have no experience with grinding, buffing and polishing metal in general you can always start with a higher grit and move back to more aggressive till you find what is best. Just make sure you follow back with the higher grits in steps to smooth and prep for your buff and polish. Even though it can take longer, this job is by no means a quick one either way. Also take breaks, the vibration from the tools can mess with your hands and when polishing for long periods of time it can mess with your eyes kind've making you go "blind". Itll help you stay on point and not make any mistakes. I grind, buff and polish mostly stainless steel for work, but alot of diff metals on the side. Fun stuff to do if you have the patients and OCD lol
Very nice sir ! you are tallented.I have a honda b16a,I' have some high compr. pistons(11.1) and bigger cams with a 70mm throttle body and ported intake manifold,exhaust etc.Soon, hope this year i will port my head following your video !! I've learn manny things here :) sorry for bad rightining, i'm from romania :)
Thank you! I wish you success with your project, I'm really happy you found the video to be useful.
Not gonna lie. Can't wait to do a full port job on my ZX2 after practicing on my old Corolla. Thx this series is where I started.
+Jayson Teppes Happy to hear this got you started. Good luck!
This is so amazing to watch, I think even I could do something like this. Obviously this will increase power and efficiency due to less restriction and more flow, but will this also improve fuel economy? I am considering rebuilding a diesel 4x4 engine from a Mitsubishi Pajero, would doing this to the ports basically improve any engine?? P.S. I just discovered you and LOVE the way that you explain things, it's so simple and clear. Thank You.
Thank you 😊 The benefits of this on a diesel will be negligible unless you're building something very extreme with massive hp and boost.
This is a great video! I'm definitely gonna try on my dirt bike. Quick question, what mistakes can a novice make, and how severe can they be?
Satanminherre Thank you, glad you like it. The most common rookie mistake is being too enthusiastic and removing too much, thinking that more is better. Too little won't hurt, but too much can actually disrupt airflow and reduce power, so stay on the conservative side, don't go much beyond removing casting imperfections and blending in sharp edges and you will be fine.
Good video!
Looks like a great thing to do never knew this was possible !
Would be important to note that smoother but not polished runner walls is the way to go for port injected systems, that slight roughness helps the air/fuel mixture before entering the cylinder, port injection also keeps the back of the valves and walls cleaner so carbon buildup is less of a problem, direct injected systems would benefit greater from polished walls, less restricted air flow and reduced carbon buildup. Awesome video I subscribed.
Hey so Im not confident on what is best for the bowl. Do you sand the valve seat to blend into the rest of the head? I know you dont touch from the 45 to the combustion chamber, but from just beyond the 45 to the port opening is ok to sand?
You should always gasket match, especially if porting, as an uneven or rough transition will cause more impedence than the rough spots removed by porting and can cancel most, if not all of the gains achieved by porting.This is not meant as criticism criticism, but rather advice.
excited and horrified to attempt this
Don't worry, its not too complicated. Just do the research and go slowly. Don't use carbide burrs. Maybe get a junk head if you can and practice a bit. You'll get the hang of it as you go.
driving 4 answers thanks. My hope is to dig something out at Standard Auto Wreakers on their parts day and try my luck. I'm a bit concerned that this process might slightly lower compression but I suppose the better flow compensates.
Lord Flick You can get back the lost compression, and then some, when you cut your head at the machine shop afterwards.
+driving 4 answers (mr2 mk1 hero) good to know. thanks!
@@lordflick895 you could get back the lost compression by installing a thinner gasket it's what I did, oh yeah and if you do a mirror finish on your intake runners you could get increased fuel consumption... it's what a guy did to my head and it was awful 17l per 100km urban fuel consumption it nearly doubled and smelled really bad...
NEVER polish the intake unless you have the fuel injected in the head.The intake charge must "tumble" to keep the fuel from turning into drops as there is no power there. I know I forgot somethings but not this after racing for over 40 years and teaching for even more. I went to school in Malvern Pa. and you know who lived there ,I miss the old "grump".
dynodon100 This engine is fuel injected. You are right, no polish for carbs.
driving 4 answers Not even 180 grit for carburated engines?
NO you want it rough so it will "tumble" , smooth in the intake it will "jell" together.Grind around the runners and remember "No-one ever went faster grinding the floor of a port" I got that on after spending many years racing and learning the "old guys" were right.
GUys would you pls edify on what happens in Stage 2 and 3? I have been trying to read up on relevant info regarding all this but there simply is too much to understand for my level of knowledge. Basically I m just looking for a direction to follow, to pick up on head porting and exhaust building. What is the general approach one should follow to this technique given how different engines need a different approach. Also once porting is done, are there relative changes that are to be made to the shape of the piston crown, the shape of the valve neck etc
I am looking to get started off on single cylinder 4 strokes and need small bits of advice on the best approach to getting down to all this. (Bikes - 150-200 cc engines). Cheers!
It doesn't matter if it's direct injection or port injection. Both will be fine with ports. Carbs don't have quite the same pressure. New racing or performance carbs have much better jets than old carbs. So with racing or performance carb, you can port.
When all your shaping is finished on the intake ports, grit blast the surfaces with 120 to 150 grit aluminum oxide for an even surface finish & better fuel/air mixing.
Protect the valve seats & guides!
Nice brake down. It's good motivation (love you to cc) lol
I liked your video, really good!! Thorough and quick to the point!!!
I like your videos bro
But i wouldnt recomment to polish the intakeside on this engine
The rough surface is to get a better fuel/air mixture
I second and third that. Contour only. Unless it's a direct injection engine then honestly.... Polish away.
Great video mate, really enjoy it
7:22 fantastic diy btw
Nathalie Desnoyers You got it :) glad you liked the vid
will be porting my honda k20a head soon and this helped alot. thanks
Happy to hear it helped. It means the video is doing its purpose.
Also a good video from you :-) See my video of a professionally ported 4A-GE head by TODA in Japan. People thinks, it should shine like crome and have a mirror finish, thats not true. You did a great job :-)
Wow thank you, got a book on this but doesn't go into too much detail unfortunately
At 7:22 I realised I was a man who was capable 😄
curious about the valve diameter to throat ratio on DOHC cylinder heads
I have a 75 z1 1000 now was a 900 polished combustion &exhaust but the intake I have been reading needs to be rough or no smooth this has "carbs" can u give any input. thanks man
A little bit of roughness in the intake helps fuel atomization. For a carbureted application I would finish off with 200 or maybe 300 grit maximum.
Damnit man now I have to do it to my car
And maybe the mower too!
Definitely gotta do it to the mower :)
@@d4a wouldn't be the first time i modded a mower
I put a 20mm mikuni carb and a header on one of my old push mowers lol the neighbors hated me after that
That's hilarious mate :)
that was a awesome video!!im going to try porting my 2.3 liter ford boat engine to maybe get sum more power out of it. hopefully a 4 barrel intake also.thanks !!
May I ask why you did no unshrouding?
Can I do this with my sport bike?
Yeah, with any combustion engine basically. Even something as old and shitty as MZ150
Nice useful video for DIY stage 1 level, meets my goals for my 1992 track bike engine.
No wasted time, listening to long winded hillbilly babel.
lots of comments re @7:22 but what else you gonna do when you can't get your tool in there?
The way you changed the combustion chambers, doesn't reduse the compression ratio?
That way you make a bigger "bowl" for the same amount of air/fuel mixture so the comp ratio is smaller!
Have you run on the dyno before and after the modification to see any diffs?
So polish is not by some metal polish material? i am confused. What exactly is polish ? with fine tools or some solution?
Great Video! Excited to try it out this winter!
Evan argueta Thanks, glad you like it. Good luck!
You did a excellent job with 4age big port cylinder head... buddy. Now, take the cylinder head and go to the engineers. Find out how much more more bigger value can they install on the 4age big port cylinder head.. Your next video, please do a video of, how to port the exhuast manifold for 4age big port cylinder head. Do a video of how protect it, on 4age manifold against heat by galvanize coat it.. from high heat..
if i dont have a mashine like this,can i use sandpaper like 1000 grit and sand it down?
Does this little thing really increase hp and torque ?
Ppl Before porting a head learn what’s low and high rpm port, you can then decide on what you want in your application low or high rpm power or a trade off and go for mid range,, make what you want of it .maybe I have been wrong for the last 50 years of porting ,just remember there is no turning back with out big expense MMkS,RACE,ENGINE,DEVELOPMENT,
The best part of this video at 7:30 😂
The most important trick with a head,is that you can level it all out 1 or 2mm in a professional workshop and the explosion in the piston chamber will be better and it will gain some hp
How much hp
Great, another project for me to conquer 🤣
What were the end results? Did you dyno before and after?
hasbeengood that's exactly what I would like to know too?
It's not all for hp and tq gains
Excellent video!
Finger banging your engine is fine living for car guys! Unfortunately if your at this stage your probably putting in performance pistons and such so you don't know exactly how much hp just doing this would add which I would love to know.
How did the engine preform in the end?
Polishing the combustion chamber and the top of piston speeds up flame front so that it combusts the fuel more effectively and quicker and putting ceramic on the piston crown and combustion chamber isn't a good idea cause of heat sink and expansion problems with piston, as all pistons are not round but barrel shaped. Turbo engine can use ceramic cause the piston clearance is way more than N,A. and it helps to spool up the turbo quicker. Hope this helps people decide what right for their engine.
Do you think there are no compression loses when you port the edgeds out of the chamber? Iam not really sure about this.
Thank You Thank You
Using your ideas/techniques will save some $$$, but curious, what kind of cfm gains do you think you can gain via your method?
dont you decrease the compression ration by porting the cyl head between the valves/sparkplug area? Wont that potentialy decrease power on an NA engine?
Jarno vw Yes, porting the chambers decreases compression, but you increase it easily by cutting the head and block and/or with a thinner head gasket.
driving 4 answers ah right. though what first comes to mind then is... why would you increase the volume of the total cyl area and the shorten it again by shaving the head and using a thinner gasket? PS this is not meant as critisism im genuinly curious ;)
+Jarno vw When working on the chambers, it's actually called deshrouding the chambers, the goal is the get rid of sharp edges, i.e. potential hotspots that can cause knock. You want the chambers smooth to help prevent knock. The increase in chamber volume is just a sort of unfortunate by-product. The increase in chamber volume that occurs as a result of porting isn't that big and shaving the head even a little, easily makes up for it. You don't have to explain your comment, I will reply to criticism and curiosity equally happily :) Thanks for watching.
driving 4 answers thanks for explaining i see i missunderstood the goal of it :D
I'm afraid my valves will hit the pistons if I cut the head. Wouldn't that concern you as well?
bro you gave that head a good fingering! But did it help? What if you left the cam alone and only ported the head? Would you see a power improvement?
I’m a terrible slow reader love the video hate the reading lol
Thank you. Very helpful.
hello like your videos!!!! maybe you can compare some valves titanium steel and some others and maybe the springs too thanks!!!
A REALLY wonderful job
Thank you :)
Great video, great work. learned a lot. Is this a car or bike? Did you notice a difference?
I need a skinny Long bit that u used to sand the inside for the short radius.. where did u get it or where can I find it ? Ty
would putting duct tape over the valve seats protect it a bit when doing valve bowls?
can you suggest a quality electric tool that can accomplish this as well as heavier rotary Porting needs. I tried the Harbor Freight Electric Die Grinder but with no speed control it simply destroys the sanding cone bits.
Outstanding job on this video.
can I do this to clean the exhaust port of carbon buildup
Okay my general question... When looking at the 4age head, specifically the exhaust ports... They're smaller than the intake ports... So I would think if you port those out to be bigger, along with porting the manifold, you should be able to pickup power just because your pumping losses are lower... I always thought basically the bigger the exhaust the better... Then again I mainly deal with turbo stuff, or try to at least
It all really depends on what else is on your engine. With everything stock porting anything will be a waste of time. The bigport 4age has intake ports that are a bit too big, which is why it has t-vis in stock form in order to reduce port size in the low rpm range and try and save everything below 4500 from being torqueless and useless. This is why the smallport, as the next generation, abandoned the giant intakes. It basically lost nothing in the top end but gained a lot in the lower end. Same goes for the exhaust ports. There is such a thing as too big. If your cams don't have enough lift and duration to get enough air in and if you don't have enough compression you will never have enough exhaust gasses to need bigger exhaust ports. This is of course NA we're talking about. Things work a bit differently with a turbo, but even with a turbo you can still have too large exhaust ports which will reduce air velocity in the exhaust and likely make your turbo spool up later. I have little experience with turbos so feel free to correct me.
You're most likely right about the turbos. On my project right now I have a 4ac, I probably won't be doing very much with that engine as there isn't much to do exactly... But the 90s corollas came with the 7afe, 1.8L. I can find those cars for 500$ and then have the Dohc... Basically I'm trying to find what all makes the best power, but doesn't sacrifice fuel economy, if anything I would like to increase the fuel economy.
Once you have given your cylinder heads a nice polish like that, what does it take to restore that finish the next time you need to pull the heads off? Do you have to do it all over again starting with the roughest rolls? Would wiping the insides be good enough?
AJFresh carb cleaner will remove any carbon deposits since its smoother,will be easier to clean...dont forget to tune the ecu,this leans your mixture...
Vega-Expert thank you. where can I get more information on tuning the ECU after a port mod? I suppose I'll start right now by looking up ECU tuning.
Friggin awesome.. I learnt so much.. thank you..
Thank you! Glad it was useful.
wish I had time to do this, just for the sake of that my cylinder head is off my zx6r for valves rebuild due to a burnt valve. but I don't have time to sit n polish :( not to mention I'm dying to ride my bike again after so long driving a car
+ilackcreativity alex It's a few days of work if you keep at it. But if you don't have the time don't worry about it too much, tell yourself you're not missing out on heaps of hp especially if you don't make any other mods :) hope this is some sort of consolation.
will this work on carbeurator engine. i have a 100cc hero honda splendor from india. got interested to port after seeing ur video. will this effect my mileage. also would like to know
if i hv to port my cylinder with this or not needed.
So You Do not map out pressure drops or rises like in the book. "Practical Gas Flow" by John Dalton.??
Da li bi mogao da izguram moj bmw m43tu sa 118ks na nekih 150 ako spustim glavu za recimo 0.5mm obradim izduvne kanale olaksam svaki klip oko 10% naravno nove karike gumice ventila itd itd zanima me iz razloga sto sa cipom taj motor bez modifikacija daje 130ks pa sam zeleo da te pitam da li bi takve modifikacije uz cip izvukle jos 20ks hvala
Nice job my man ☺ Do you feel a greater difference in power?
trifunovic_90 Thanks, glad you liked the video. The engine felt more lively....then it got rod knock so I didn't have the chance to dyno it. I have rebuilt it again and will be installing it soon with this head on it.
@@d4a so one year on, any update on the dyno? 😁
Do you have a honing or boring video?
If you remove material from inside the head, aren't you reducing compression ratio?
Yes you are
best video ever
taking any metal off the combustion chamber will lower the compression , so you may need a thinner head gasket or have the head skimmed
True. My head and block were cut afterwards as part of the engine overhaul procedure.
Awesome job ...can you give us some links for the tools?
thanks your really helpfull
Jos jedan dobar video ....Ko ti je radio ovo posto planiram i aj ovo brzo da radim.
Pozzz...
Trgovac77 Trgovac77 Ovo sam ja sam radio :)
Smooth surfaces in the intake tracts are not as beneficial as with exhaust. It's a cop out to claim gasket matching isn't necessary. Gasket matching is much easier to do and is another way to ensure balance between each cylinder's ports. Pls note: when porting and polishing consideration needs to go into what cam design is being used. It is possible and easy to tune an engine for maximum peak HP and in the process ruin its driveability. A flat spot in acceleration is an acceptable compromise for dedicated track vehicles, but absolutely sucks for a street machine.
Have you tested the head or have before and after dyno sheets?I'm very curious to see the difference.
Haven't tested the engine stock as it was impossible to test due to failed transmission and various other issues. Right now engine is heavily modified with different compression, cams and converted to bike carbs, so when I dyno it I will have no idea how much the porting and polishing actually impacted power. :( I was really curious myself too
Can I do this to my wife? You know, to smoothen her out. If yes, what grit to use?
Hahaha...hilarious joke man
i love when its rough inside..can feel it more..
azrul u like when ur weener bleeds, was wrong with u
u got a thin skin on your weener man...
try underage chicks, oh shit its illegal im out
7:23 remember kids to strap up, this is how you end up with babies.
How much performance gain does one on average see with N/A engines?
Porting alone can't work wonders. Better airflow from porting goes hand in hand with increased compression and bigger lift and duration on the cam side. Good porting alone can do like 5-15 hp depending on skill, luck and maybe a few other factors. Porting and increased compression on the 4age bigport can get you like 20, add some decent cams and it can go 35-40 or even more.
driving 4 answers dont forget the valve job...my old boss gains average 20whp with his custom valve angles but hes one out of many many builders who get that much...
it depends on the displacement of the engine. for example, the guys at engine masters ported the intake manifold and cylinder head on a 410ci small-block Mopar and got a 92hp increase. but we're talking about a 6.7L engine so with more down to earth applications it will ofc be way less dramatic. it also depends on what's left on the table by the manufacturer in the sense that a cylinder head that's highly restricted from the factory may benefit more from a port job. all this goes to say that you' can't really say what gains you might get because there are so many factors at play here. another thing to note is that due to increased port dimention the torque curve will move up a bit so the engine will loose bottom end grunt.
People dont get that porting isnt about horsepower, its about making fluids flow better -> Responsiveness