Well, thanks very much! I'm working on another video: how I use some electronics, programming, and my CNC to make shadow board organizers for my toolbox. Hope you'll swing my my channel and check it out when I am ready to release it.
I wanted to thank you for the video. It gave me ideas that I used when creating my own jig and produced the first set of plain grips from it today. I appreciate the work you put into the video. thanks
I'm glad that you found it useful. Will you be posting a few pics of your work somewhere? Or perhaps selling a few sets? If so, don't forget to post here and show off your work. I'd love to see it.
@@scottprints I've got my first prototypes going out today to someone that has many 1911s to allow us to check fit across multiple guns. Playing with different designs for the plunger tube relief to add the radius into that detail. forums.woodnet.net/showthread.php?tid=7356031
Wow, thank you so much for the video. I really wanted to cut some grips and engrave them for my grandfather's 1911 as a father's day gift but had no honest idea exactly where to start. You helped
+Your best Friend I'm glad the video was helpful. The bit that I use is a Freud; package is marked "Round Nose Bit". Metalworkers would probably refer to it as a " ball end mill".
I got the specs for my grips off the same drawing! I really (and I mean REALLY) like your jig & am now thinking of making my own since currently I use locating pins & carpet tape, which introduce enough error on their own. Yours is great & would really allow some fantastic repeatability. The only thing that I would probably do is look for some nylon screws, mostly because a fraction of a z" off and I'd be looking at some new bits (and I'm even cheaper than you) As others have mentioned, I'd suggest to you a small ball end mill. I have a 1.5mm tapered end mill that I do a .15mm stepover parallel path with and it literally only needs final sanding when it's done. Granted, that takes a lot longer to do so you could just do a 1/4" ball with .025" stepover & just hit it on the belt sander later. Thanks for the video & the idea for the jig!
I so very much enjoyed the video. Was great to watch. I too believe that information should be shared. One question/suggestion if you will. You have a lot of tool changes which eats up time. I suggest using a 1/4 inch ball nose and have it finish in the top curve and the 2 angles all in one g-code. I have been playing around with a new high speed spindle and cut my first grip out of aluminum.
Scott hi great video. Others may have suggested this already but dont forget to use climb cutting to avoid splintering ,fuzz and chips.especially on exotic woods with curly unstable grains or burl.in the end it could save you a ruined grip.in the least it could cut down sanding.,which most every wood worker dislikes
Edad Martin Thanks for the suggestion! my CNC has some stiffness issues, which makes climb milling problematic. The timing of your comment is great: I have my CNC ripped apart at the moment. I'm upgrading the linear bearings on my X-axis. Hopefully that will make climb milling more feasible.
Hey Scott, I took your advice and found several stl files on the net and I also found a copy of the print provided by Benson consulting. I learned how to use the 3D profile in Cambam and I wanted share what I learned from machining several dozen grips using various profile methods and setting. water line rough and water line finish are fairly quick and are perhaps used for roughing, the finish is horrible and did not provide the best results. I also used horizontal and vertical and found that the horizontal method left deep tool marks and is probably best suited for roughing with a tight step over. Its the vertical method that provided the best finish with a tight step over, sanding was done by hand with 400 grit sand paper and was very minimal. I also learned how to create an extrusion of the grip in a stock format where the actual grip profile could be machined at a later time. The fixture is another story that I may share later, I am still working on the macros for that. Well, thats all for now. Thanks again Scott for pointing me in the right direction.
Glad that you're having fun and making some progress! You'll need to post some photos of your work soon; I'd like to see what approach you took to building your fixture. You might find the "plane slice (x, y, or z)" features to be useful in CamBam. If you "z" slice your .stl file, that'll give you some starting geometry for your profile cuts. Take care, and keep us updated!
Scott, I created an extrusion of a profile and have been able to machine the file successfully. The issue that I am having is that it take nearly 3 hours to machine. Do you have any suggestions as to how I can get the time reduced? Also I am not familiar with the splicing or how to evn machine the geometry after it has been spliced, any suggestions on how to do that in cambam? Thank you
Scott, I have watched your videos 3-4 each as it related to your Krm and to 1911 grips. I was wondering if you had a words of wisdom in I embark on a krmx02 build and if you be willing to shared the dimensions on your 1911 jigs as I have only seen one other video where they did a good job creating the jig. Im going to retire in 3-4 years and would like to have my cad skills unite with my gunsmith skills to create a retirement business. Last question as I am packing this comment; do you run a professional gunshop or a shop of any kind. I think I read somewhere you were in OK. As I learn cad, I am thinking of ways to create quick change setups for router, laser, welding and plasma heads. might be a little ambitious, but I have time on my side to design things and learn cad.
Great video! I know this is a fairly old video, but I’ve seen people stabilize their grips with a vacuum setup and this stuff called “Cactus Juice”. I’m wondering if stabilizing the grip blanks will help mitigate any tear-out during machining, or if that would gum up the bits.
I gave stabilizing a shot once myself, but I wasn't able to set up a good process. However, I have made grips from other people's stabilized wood, and it certainly does make a noticeable difference.
Hey, awesome video! Them grips would look lovely on my 1991 replica ;) i have one thisng to say though, and i only say it from a perfectionists point of view. i know you are saying you would like comments to help you with finish etc, so here i go... in your toolpath software, is there an option to change direction of cut? i notice your are travelling non-conventionally (anti-clocowise) with your toolpaths, therefore effectively scooping the material away, giving a rougher finish, especially allowing break-out in wood. the direction of your spindle, and cutter direction, indicates it should be travelling conventinally (clockwise) around the panel. this would give a much better finish, and require less hand work, would elongate tool life, and you would possibly be able to run your spindle at a higer rpm, and run your feedrate higher, utting your cycle times dramatically ;) just a thought!
+Adrian Faulkner Hi Adrian, thanks for your note! I do think that there might be one MO (machining operation) that I could switch directions and get some benefits as you suggested. But actually, most of my toolpaths are already conventional! My spindle turns clockwise (as viewed from above), so travelling in an anti-clockwise direction produces "conventional" cuts, while the opposite direction would yield "climb" cuts. I actually do intend to do more experiments with climb vs conventional milling in my setup, as I've had both directions recommended by my video viewers. Might be a great topic for another video? Thanks again for writing, -Scott
@@scottprints I know this is an older video, but, from someone who has a less than absolutely rigid CNC machine (combo of wood and aluminum) the conventional cuts give better finish and accuracy than climb. If your machine is absolutely rigid, then climb cuts, especially on metal are the better way to go. Just my home-brew 2 cents. Great video. Used this as a reference point for my setup and approach to machining the same 1911 grips as well as the Beretta grips. If you have time (I know this is a seriously old thread) I would love to get your approach to checkering as this is something that I have been struggling with getting consistent result. The patterning is no issue, but breaking off the pyramid tops at random during the op is. Even slow fee rate with brand new end mills.
@@anklebiterwoodworks2818 Thanks much! Always nice to get a thoughtful reply. I can describe my approach to checkering. Whether it's a GOOD approach is yet to be determined! But I just finished a workout and need to get ready for work. I'll write a more detailed reply over the weekend. Take care!
I realize this video is 5 years old. Question. Your jig for holding grips. Your design and manufacture? Is there a file we can purchase of get to make our own. I have 1911's and a Shapeoko XXL.
Hi Mike, Wow, has it been 5 years already? Time really flies. As it happens, I hope to be back into grip making by the end of the year. The file that I used to build the jig is a CamBam file, and I'm not sure that it would make sense to any one but me. Plus, it was built to fit my table. That said, if you want to give grip making a shot, I'd be happy to give you my 2 cents as you work through various bits of the process.
Scott, I would like to get in contact wit you regarding you 1911 grips. The blue prints that you use as well as the jig that you created. I don't see a private messaging area on this site or just cant find it.
You know, I'm not really sure that RUclips has a PM feature. I might need to look at that. Anyhow, I haven't made 1911 grips in years; but if you have any questions I'll try to help.
Eric, The macros are extremely helpful for stringing together operations that would otherwise require human input. Mach3 is my controller software, and there's a forum devoted to the practical application of this software. Do you have a CNC? Does it run off of Mach3? If so, I'd recommend heading to the Mach3 forum and searching for macros. There are all kinds of useful posts on that forum, and the Mach3 website has a downloadable guide to various program-specific macros.
I enjoyed your video. Could you do one on how you made your grips at the end of this video that shows the USMC text and most important the logo. I'd like to know how you laid it out on your computer and how you post processed it into G-code. I’m try to do the same thing, machine logos in wood but with no luck and would like to learn. I don’t have Cambam but will purchase it if that does the trick. Thanks!
Shooter 45 - Well, making a new video on that specific topic isn't on my short-term agenda. I actually have footage from a recent project (not related to your inquiry) that I've been meaning to edit and post. That doesn't mean that I won't try to help you though. Why don't you send me an email (info@torquedlogic.com) with more details on your project and I'll see if I glcan give you any pointers. Good luck! -Scott
Scott, I love this video and am working on doing a pair of grips for my 1952 S&W 38. I am very interested in your cnc but I could not understand the website that you got the design from. Would you please reply with the website? Thanks.
Sure thing; not sure if you're talking about the design of my CNC or the design of the grips themselves; regardless: CNC: Kronos Robotics 1911 Plans: Rio Benson of Benson Consulting. Do a google search for "1911 Redux" and you'll find them in about a minute. Thanks!
im a little late in the game but the video you mentioned watching when you learned, does that show any of the designing of the file itself? trying to learn how to design the grips in fusion 360 and having nothing but trouble. hope to speak to you soon
There's not really a video for how to CAD 1911 grips. What's more available is general topics: how to sketch, extrude, sweep, draft, etc. Operations that are applicable to am infinite number of objects, not just 1911 grips.
I should have worded that better so I walked into that. I did find all fusion tutorials and some online tutorials for walking through some types of workstations. Some were pretty helpful but but I was hoping to find something that goes in depth more than what I’ve watched so far. I got the hang of a lot of it and I always find time to try a new operation or something just to see if it might be one that could come in handy when designing a new type of item. But thanks anyways and please let me know if you run into anything that might help me with that.
Great work! What size screws are you using? I made a similar fixture using 1911 grip bushings/screws for hold downs, but ive had trouble with the bushings pulling out with the screws after machining...
Hi Scott, Absolutely loved the video. I'm fairly new to cad/cam and I've been trying to model the stocks (grips) from Rio Benson's drawings in Fusion 360 for a quite a while. I'm completely stuck on how to arrive at the dimension for the centerpoint of the 1.36" arc on the .25" offset line. Can you possibly explain to me how you arrived at that point and/ or verify what that dimension is from the top hole? I've download many stl, iges, step & solidworks files and very few of them have the same coordinate for that arc. The most common seems to be .7894". Also what thickness are you using for the blank - the .240" or .255" on the print? Thank you Joe
Hello Joe, Somehow I managed to miss your question; sorry about that. I think that if you look for the government spec drawings from decades ago, you'll find a dimension that's not on Mr. Benson's drawings. The blueprints (literally... they're blue) are out there on a few archive sites, and they should give you that last dim. I think I programmed the final thickness to be .255", but it's been a while now. Hope that helps, -Scott
I did have a question did you make your own jig for the 1911 blanks? I would like to get into CNC Machining with wood and doing this but seems like having the jig to place the blanks on makes like a lot easier.
Hi Daniel, Yes, I did make the jig myself. If you'll be making a bunch of anything (not just grips), then a fixture is probably going to be very helpful.
Hi Scott, I very much enjoyed your video. I too am interested in making 1911 grips. My question to you is where did you get your jig? I would be very interested in one myself as I plan to include pistol grips as a part of my business. Thanks again! Troy Hill, Soddy Daisy, TN.
aweso o using a cnc router. 2 questions would you consider building another jig like that one to sell. and where did you get the program to cut those is it g code or something else. thanks for your time and video
Hi Steve, I don't think I'd want to make another jig: but the good news is that if you have a CNC, you should be able to make one yourself. The geometry on the jig is actually less complex than the geometry of the grips, so it makes sense to make the jig first and them build some grips on it. Learning all the way, of course. And the machine code is G-code. That's the output of a CAM program, and your CAM program choice is completely up to you. There's a bunch out there, I use CamBam and Fusion 360 in my home shop. Good luck!
I just have to ask. With building the machine and learning the software how much time have you invested in your education to develop enough skill to do this task? 1000, 2000, 5000 hours? Looks like a big learning curve. I have a big chunk of zebra wood in my stock and would love to be able to do this. Will it take me 2 years?
Smokey Walker -Eh, from when ai first decided to build a CNC router to the day I completed my first set of 1911 grips was about 6 months. I do process stock for other grip-makers on a fairly consistent basis . I hate applying finish and most of them don't have CNC programming skills. It works well, and I could do the same with your zebrawood if you'd like. But I get the feeling that you'd like to develop the skill on your own. So my answer would be: everybody learns differently, but it took me 4 months to build my machine and 2 months to learn enough CAD/CAM to make 1911 grips.
I'm always up for a challenge! is there a Private Message feature on RUclips? If not, send a note to info@torquedlogic.com and we'll go from there. thx!
Yep, I have a few different methods for adding graphics/logos to grips. The graphics that you described aren't terribly complex and would probably look pretty sharp on a 1911 grip.
WHere do you get the specifications for the grips? I have guys that are cutting grips for me and they are working from current sets and some are really problematinc. Do you make grips for other poeple?
The drawings are available online; I found that Rio Benson's drawings were extremely helpful. Yes, I make grips for other people all the time. It's a fun little hobby!
Do a google search for Benson Consulting, 1911 Redux. Rio Benson put together a fantastic resource that got me most of the dim's that I needed for my programming.
Scott, First, let me say thanks for making this video! I was looking at doing the same thing and you gave me a lot of excellent ideas! Would you be willing to share more details? I'd be interested in find out more about the jig your using here, the macros your using, and perhaps even sample grips. Anything and everything really... :)
+dp Sure! We should probably Skype sometime. I don't mind sharing info; this is just a hobby for me. Just remember to share back if you come up with a few tips of your own someday.
@@santonisparks Hi there! My equipment is packed up at the moment, so I haven't been selling pistol grips. But even when I did, I didn't make any for Beretta models. Sorry! Thanks for your note though.
@@jameselliott1487 No, not that model either. I looked up the Ruger after your first message, it wouldn't be terribly hard to duplicate. But I haven't had the time to make grips in over a year, and I don't seeyself getting any more free time anytime soon.
Scott....nice video with one caveat. Please don't use that method of belt sanding. You are begging for a fairly catastrophic accident, which may include grinding your fingers down when they are caught underneath that perpendicular guard. Take it from a life long woodworker. I literally cringed when I saw it. Again....excellent video, just poor technique when belt sanding. Take the guard off if you must. Just trying to avoid a nasty accident.
Arnie Grammon - You know what? You're right. I have burned my fingers a couple times; but so far have been lucky enough to escape any injury. I have an idea for a jig that might help keep my hand further from the belt; might be a good topic for a future video.
I know it’s an old video. But I enjoyed watching it.
Well, thanks very much!
I'm working on another video: how I use some electronics, programming, and my CNC to make shadow board organizers for my toolbox. Hope you'll swing my my channel and check it out when I am ready to release it.
I wanted to thank you for the video. It gave me ideas that I used when creating my own jig and produced the first set of plain grips from it today. I appreciate the work you put into the video. thanks
I'm glad that you found it useful. Will you be posting a few pics of your work somewhere? Or perhaps selling a few sets? If so, don't forget to post here and show off your work. I'd love to see it.
@@scottprints I've got my first prototypes going out today to someone that has many 1911s to allow us to check fit across multiple guns. Playing with different designs for the plunger tube relief to add the radius into that detail.
forums.woodnet.net/showthread.php?tid=7356031
Wow, thank you so much for the video. I really wanted to cut some grips and engrave them for my grandfather's 1911 as a father's day gift but had no honest idea exactly where to start. You helped
Also, what is the name of that red bit you used? thanks
+Your best Friend I'm glad the video was helpful. The bit that I use is a Freud; package is marked "Round Nose Bit". Metalworkers would probably refer to it as a " ball end mill".
That was a great video. And an excellent presentation. I thoroughly enjoyed watching it😎
I got the specs for my grips off the same drawing! I really (and I mean REALLY) like your jig & am now thinking of making my own since currently I use locating pins & carpet tape, which introduce enough error on their own. Yours is great & would really allow some fantastic repeatability.
The only thing that I would probably do is look for some nylon screws, mostly because a fraction of a z" off and I'd be looking at some new bits (and I'm even cheaper than you)
As others have mentioned, I'd suggest to you a small ball end mill. I have a 1.5mm tapered end mill that I do a .15mm stepover parallel path with and it literally only needs final sanding when it's done. Granted, that takes a lot longer to do so you could just do a 1/4" ball with .025" stepover & just hit it on the belt sander later.
Thanks for the video & the idea for the jig!
Great video! I just built an X-Carve machine and I'm having a blast learning how to use it. Please keep them up!
I so very much enjoyed the video. Was great to watch. I too believe that information should be shared. One question/suggestion if you will. You have a lot of tool changes which eats up time. I suggest using a 1/4 inch ball nose and have it finish in the top curve and the 2 angles all in one g-code. I have been playing around with a new high speed spindle and cut my first grip out of aluminum.
Scott hi great video. Others may have suggested this already but dont forget to use climb cutting to avoid splintering ,fuzz and chips.especially on exotic woods with curly unstable grains or burl.in the end it could save you a ruined grip.in the least it could cut down sanding.,which most every wood worker dislikes
Edad Martin
Thanks for the suggestion! my CNC has some stiffness issues, which makes climb milling problematic.
The timing of your comment is great: I have my CNC ripped apart at the moment. I'm upgrading the linear bearings on my X-axis. Hopefully that will make climb milling more feasible.
Thanks, Scott! Very informative!
Thanks.
You're welcome.
Scott great video. Just learning this CNC stuff. I am trying to figure out how to cut that 45 degree angles at the bottom of the grips.
Hey Scott,
I took your advice and found several stl files on the net and I also found a copy of the print provided by Benson consulting. I learned how to use the 3D profile in Cambam and I wanted share what I learned from machining several dozen grips using various profile methods and setting. water line rough and water line finish are fairly quick and are perhaps used for roughing, the finish is horrible and did not provide the best results. I also used horizontal and vertical and found that the horizontal method left deep tool marks and is probably best suited for roughing with a tight step over. Its the vertical method that provided the best finish with a tight step over, sanding was done by hand with 400 grit sand paper and was very minimal. I also learned how to create an extrusion of the grip in a stock format where the actual grip profile could be machined at a later time. The fixture is another story that I may share later, I am still working on the macros for that. Well, thats all for now. Thanks again Scott for pointing me in the right direction.
Glad that you're having fun and making some progress! You'll need to post some photos of your work soon; I'd like to see what approach you took to building your fixture.
You might find the "plane slice (x, y, or z)" features to be useful in CamBam. If you "z" slice your .stl file, that'll give you some starting geometry for your profile cuts.
Take care, and keep us updated!
Scott, I created an extrusion of a profile and have been able to machine the file successfully. The issue that I am having is that it take nearly 3 hours to machine. Do you have any suggestions as to how I can get the time reduced? Also I am not familiar with the splicing or how to evn machine the geometry after it has been spliced, any suggestions on how to do that in cambam? Thank you
Without seeing your file, I'd guess bigger end mill as a starting point. Would you like me to take a look at your CB file?
Yes
How do I send you my file
I don't like guns, but like the cnc you build. I would like to learn from your macro's
awsome. i will be looking to buy some grips when i decided to buy a 1911. from new zealand.
I'm glad that you enjoyed my video!
Scott, I have watched your videos 3-4 each as it related to your Krm and to 1911 grips. I was wondering if you had a words of wisdom in I embark on a krmx02 build and if you be willing to shared the dimensions on your 1911 jigs as I have only seen one other video where they did a good job creating the jig. Im going to retire in 3-4 years and would like to have my cad skills unite with my gunsmith skills to create a retirement business. Last question as I am packing this comment; do you run a professional gunshop or a shop of any kind. I think I read somewhere you were in OK. As I learn cad, I am thinking of ways to create quick change setups for router, laser, welding and plasma heads. might be a little ambitious, but I have time on my side to design things and learn cad.
Dave,
Sorry that it took me a while to respond. Are you still making your own grip panels? Let me know if I can help with anything.
Is that a set of bloodwood scales I see? I came here specifically with the idea to make scales from some bloodwood I have. Great video!
Thanks! I have made bloodwood grips in the past, but it's been years. Certainly long before I shot this video.
Great video! I know this is a fairly old video, but I’ve seen people stabilize their grips with a vacuum setup and this stuff called “Cactus Juice”. I’m wondering if stabilizing the grip blanks will help mitigate any tear-out during machining, or if that would gum up the bits.
I gave stabilizing a shot once myself, but I wasn't able to set up a good process.
However, I have made grips from other people's stabilized wood, and it certainly does make a noticeable difference.
Hey, awesome video! Them grips would look lovely on my 1991 replica ;) i have one thisng to say though, and i only say it from a perfectionists point of view. i know you are saying you would like comments to help you with finish etc, so here i go...
in your toolpath software, is there an option to change direction of cut? i notice your are travelling non-conventionally (anti-clocowise) with your toolpaths, therefore effectively scooping the material away, giving a rougher finish, especially allowing break-out in wood. the direction of your spindle, and cutter direction, indicates it should be travelling conventinally (clockwise) around the panel. this would give a much better finish, and require less hand work, would elongate tool life, and you would possibly be able to run your spindle at a higer rpm, and run your feedrate higher, utting your cycle times dramatically ;) just a thought!
+Adrian Faulkner Hi Adrian, thanks for your note! I do think that there might be one MO (machining operation) that I could switch directions and get some benefits as you suggested. But actually, most of my toolpaths are already conventional! My spindle turns clockwise (as viewed from above), so travelling in an anti-clockwise direction produces "conventional" cuts, while the opposite direction would yield "climb" cuts. I actually do intend to do more experiments with climb vs conventional milling in my setup, as I've had both directions recommended by my video viewers.
Might be a great topic for another video?
Thanks again for writing,
-Scott
@@scottprints I know this is an older video, but, from someone who has a less than absolutely rigid CNC machine (combo of wood and aluminum) the conventional cuts give better finish and accuracy than climb. If your machine is absolutely rigid, then climb cuts, especially on metal are the better way to go. Just my home-brew 2 cents. Great video. Used this as a reference point for my setup and approach to machining the same 1911 grips as well as the Beretta grips. If you have time (I know this is a seriously old thread) I would love to get your approach to checkering as this is something that I have been struggling with getting consistent result. The patterning is no issue, but breaking off the pyramid tops at random during the op is. Even slow fee rate with brand new end mills.
@@anklebiterwoodworks2818 Thanks much! Always nice to get a thoughtful reply. I can describe my approach to checkering. Whether it's a GOOD approach is yet to be determined! But I just finished a workout and need to get ready for work. I'll write a more detailed reply over the weekend. Take care!
Can your CNC make 3-D anatomic pistol grips for international target shooting? .
Very instructional video, congrats!.
Alberto,
That depends on the design of the object and the material from which the grips need to be constructed.
I realize this video is 5 years old. Question. Your jig for holding grips. Your design and manufacture? Is there a file we can purchase of get to make our own. I have 1911's and a Shapeoko XXL.
Hi Mike,
Wow, has it been 5 years already? Time really flies.
As it happens, I hope to be back into grip making by the end of the year. The file that I used to build the jig is a CamBam file, and I'm not sure that it would make sense to any one but me. Plus, it was built to fit my table.
That said, if you want to give grip making a shot, I'd be happy to give you my 2 cents as you work through various bits of the process.
Scott, I would like to get in contact wit you regarding you 1911 grips. The blue prints that you use as well as the jig that you created. I don't see a private messaging area on this site or just cant find it.
You know, I'm not really sure that RUclips has a PM feature. I might need to look at that. Anyhow, I haven't made 1911 grips in years; but if you have any questions I'll try to help.
Eric,
The macros are extremely helpful for stringing together operations that would otherwise require human input. Mach3 is my controller software, and there's a forum devoted to the practical application of this software. Do you have a CNC? Does it run off of Mach3? If so, I'd recommend heading to the Mach3 forum and searching for macros. There are all kinds of useful posts on that forum, and the Mach3 website has a downloadable guide to various program-specific macros.
I enjoyed your video. Could you do one on how you made your grips at the end of this video that shows the USMC text and most important the logo.
I'd like to know how you laid it out on your computer and how you post processed it into G-code. I’m try to do the same thing, machine logos in wood but with no luck and would like to learn. I don’t have Cambam but will purchase it if that does the trick. Thanks!
Shooter 45 - Well, making a new video on that specific topic isn't on my short-term agenda. I actually have footage from a recent project (not related to your inquiry) that I've been meaning to edit and post.
That doesn't mean that I won't try to help you though. Why don't you send me an email (info@torquedlogic.com) with more details on your project and I'll see if I glcan give you any pointers.
Good luck! -Scott
Scott, I love this video and am working on doing a pair of grips for my 1952 S&W 38. I am very interested in your cnc but I could not understand the website that you got the design from. Would you please reply with the website? Thanks.
Sure thing; not sure if you're talking about the design of my CNC or the design of the grips themselves; regardless:
CNC: Kronos Robotics
1911 Plans: Rio Benson of Benson Consulting. Do a google search for "1911 Redux" and you'll find them in about a minute.
Thanks!
im a little late in the game but the video you mentioned watching when you learned, does that show any of the designing of the file itself? trying to learn how to design the grips in fusion 360 and having nothing but trouble. hope to speak to you soon
There's not really a video for how to CAD 1911 grips. What's more available is general topics: how to sketch, extrude, sweep, draft, etc. Operations that are applicable to am infinite number of objects, not just 1911 grips.
I should have worded that better so I walked into that. I did find all fusion tutorials and some online tutorials for walking through some types of workstations. Some were pretty helpful but but I was hoping to find something that goes in depth more than what I’ve watched so far. I got the hang of a lot of it and I always find time to try a new operation or something just to see if it might be one that could come in handy when designing a new type of item. But thanks anyways and please let me know if you run into anything that might help me with that.
Great work! What size screws are you using? I made a similar fixture using 1911 grip bushings/screws for hold downs, but ive had trouble with the bushings pulling out with the screws after machining...
Can't remember for certain, but they're either 8-32 or 10-32
Hi Scott,
Absolutely loved the video. I'm fairly new to cad/cam and I've been trying to model the stocks (grips) from Rio Benson's drawings in Fusion 360 for a quite a while. I'm completely stuck on how to arrive at the dimension for the centerpoint of the 1.36" arc on the .25" offset line. Can you possibly explain to me how you arrived at that point and/ or verify what that dimension is from the top hole? I've download many stl, iges, step & solidworks files and very few of them have the same coordinate for that arc. The most common seems to be .7894".
Also what thickness are you using for the blank - the .240" or .255" on the print?
Thank you
Joe
Hello Joe,
Somehow I managed to miss your question; sorry about that.
I think that if you look for the government spec drawings from decades ago, you'll find a dimension that's not on Mr. Benson's drawings. The blueprints (literally... they're blue) are out there on a few archive sites, and they should give you that last dim.
I think I programmed the final thickness to be .255", but it's been a while now.
Hope that helps,
-Scott
I did have a question did you make your own jig for the 1911 blanks? I would like to get into CNC Machining with wood and doing this but seems like having the jig to place the blanks on makes like a lot easier.
Hi Daniel,
Yes, I did make the jig myself. If you'll be making a bunch of anything (not just grips), then a fixture is probably going to be very helpful.
Hi Scott, I very much enjoyed your video. I too am interested in making 1911 grips. My question to you is where did you get your jig? I would be very interested in one myself as I plan to include pistol grips as a part of my business. Thanks again! Troy Hill, Soddy Daisy, TN.
Troy Hill - Hi Troy, I built the jig myself; took several versions, but the finished product works well for me.
aweso o using a cnc router. 2 questions would you consider building another jig like that one to sell. and where did you get the program to cut those is it g code or something else. thanks for your time and video
Hi Steve,
I don't think I'd want to make another jig: but the good news is that if you have a CNC, you should be able to make one yourself. The geometry on the jig is actually less complex than the geometry of the grips, so it makes sense to make the jig first and them build some grips on it. Learning all the way, of course.
And the machine code is G-code. That's the output of a CAM program, and your CAM program choice is completely up to you. There's a bunch out there, I use CamBam and Fusion 360 in my home shop.
Good luck!
I wnat like this machine can you helping me to get one ?
I just have to ask. With building the machine and learning the software how much time have you invested in your education to develop enough skill to do this task? 1000, 2000, 5000 hours? Looks like a big learning curve. I have a big chunk of zebra wood in my stock and would love to be able to do this. Will it take me 2 years?
Smokey Walker -Eh, from when ai first decided to build a CNC router to the day I completed my first set of 1911 grips was about 6 months.
I do process stock for other grip-makers on a fairly consistent basis . I hate applying finish and most of them don't have CNC programming skills. It works well, and I could do the same with your zebrawood if you'd like.
But I get the feeling that you'd like to develop the skill on your own. So my answer would be: everybody learns differently, but it took me 4 months to build my machine and 2 months to learn enough CAD/CAM to make 1911 grips.
hey Scott, how much would it cost me to mill a pair of 1911 grips out of plastic sheet that i have? thanks!
I'm always up for a challenge! is there a Private Message feature on RUclips? If not, send a note to info@torquedlogic.com and we'll go from there. thx!
can your cnc make an N7 logo from the Mass Effect games or an Assassin's Creed logo on a set of grips? i think it would look awesome
Yep, I have a few different methods for adding graphics/logos to grips. The graphics that you described aren't terribly complex and would probably look pretty sharp on a 1911 grip.
WHere do you get the specifications for the grips? I have guys that are cutting grips for me and they are working from current sets and some are really problematinc. Do you make grips for other poeple?
The drawings are available online; I found that Rio Benson's drawings were extremely helpful.
Yes, I make grips for other people all the time. It's a fun little hobby!
Very nice. Where did u get the drawings for the grips?
Do a google search for Benson Consulting, 1911 Redux. Rio Benson put together a fantastic resource that got me most of the dim's that I needed for my programming.
Scott,
First, let me say thanks for making this video! I was looking at doing the same thing and you gave me a lot of excellent ideas!
Would you be willing to share more details? I'd be interested in find out more about the jig your using here, the macros your using, and perhaps even sample grips. Anything and everything really... :)
+dp Sure! We should probably Skype sometime. I don't mind sharing info; this is just a hobby for me. Just remember to share back if you come up with a few tips of your own someday.
do you make grips for sale? for a Beretta by chance?
@@santonisparks Hi there! My equipment is packed up at the moment, so I haven't been selling pistol grips. But even when I did, I didn't make any for Beretta models. Sorry! Thanks for your note though.
Do you have the cam files for ruger bisley grips?
No, sorry James. That's not a grip that I'm familiar with.
How about ruger blackhawk
@@jameselliott1487 No, not that model either. I looked up the Ruger after your first message, it wouldn't be terribly hard to duplicate. But I haven't had the time to make grips in over a year, and I don't seeyself getting any more free time anytime soon.
@@scottprints ok thank you very much. I'm a newbie at fusion 360 and struggling. Lol
@@jameselliott1487 it's ok to struggle with F360! I find that it's also quite a challenge!
Can you make a pair of grip for Spanish RUBY.756.=32.let me know if can.but a lll like chechering.i ll chow you picture.$? Let me know.
Hello, at the moment my machine is down; so won't be able to make anything for several more months. Sorry!
Scott....nice video with one caveat. Please don't use that method of belt sanding. You are begging for a fairly catastrophic accident, which may include grinding your fingers down when they are caught underneath that perpendicular guard. Take it from a life long woodworker. I literally cringed when I saw it. Again....excellent video, just poor technique when belt sanding. Take the guard off if you must. Just trying to avoid a nasty accident.
Arnie Grammon - You know what? You're right. I have burned my fingers a couple times; but so far have been lucky enough to escape any injury.
I have an idea for a jig that might help keep my hand further from the belt; might be a good topic for a future video.
Great video! i sent you a message