My rifle is a TX200 MK2 and I use this for both FT & HFT, changing scope & stock for both. I can honestly say that shooting from a peg returns better and more consistent results out to 40mtrs with £300 worth of mag 10, than the std FT sitting position on 2 grands worth of mag 50 (but, that's me). FT ranges are sorted, due to the quality of scopes. Assessing HFT ranges require more shooter evaluation, but I'm pretty sure that seasoned HFT shooters have the distances sorted. Therefore, the three biggest known bugs that affect precision are hold/trigger control, wind and competition nerves (the latter especially for the first few targets). This then brings me on to the question of KZ sizes and the distance parameters for each. This, in my view, makes the "Hunter" in HFT lost in the static. All the in-between KZ diameters and distance bands makes the whole thing "fiddly". Would it not be easier to use for example 5 ea 15mm, 10 ea 25mm and 15 ea 35/40mm in a 30 target course, and leave it up to the course builders where to place them ? A quick jury walk around the course is all that's needed to iron out daft targets. Also, bear in mind everyone shoots the same targets and you still get 1 point for a plate in the UK. Am now bracing myself for the onslaught from die-hard HFT veterans ... :)
I think you're right to a point, HFT rules have gone a bit too far in places in my opinion. I shoot ukahft and our targets are set out roughly as you describe, set numbers of each size. The distances are prescribed to some extent, but only because say a 15mm kz would be silly set at 45yards. I agree we should stop scoring for plates because it aids cheating. The whfto rules only score for a kill. Thanks for your comment, I don't think it will upset too many HFT shooters. 😀👍
The UKAHFT rules regarding course layout is so that courses are similarly difficult from club to club. I occasionally shoot at a club where they just put them out wherever they feel like and often it is too easy, members of that club often find it too difficult when they visit other clubs that follow the guidelines. It’s also useful to you as an HFT shooter as you know ‘ ok, that’s a 25mm, it can’t be any further than 40yds, or a 15mm can’t be closer than 13yds’ this is a useful tool when estimating range. I think if it’s to replicate hunting it should be 1 point for a kill, a zero if you miss the target altogether and minus 1 if you only plate it, as this would injure the animal and not necessarily kill it. I don’t imagine that would be a popular scoring system though! Cheers
Great video, I've made this a little easier for myself with the use of an ffp scope. Everything stays relative to the cross hire regardless of magnification. Once I was zeros in at 30 metres I worked out the holdunders and holdovers at specific ranges then made a sticker of my reticle with know impact points includes and stuck it on the underside of my scope cap 🙂
Quality content again, Jeff. Simplifying doesn't have to be a complex process and you've shown that here. The amount of thought you put into your subjects is admirable and the end results are immensely helpful. I've just had a cheek piece and hamster fitted to my rifle, so I need to go over my aim points again before the Sunday competition; I'll be trying out this method to remove another variable or two!
What a great idea. I haven’t yet begun my journey into Field Target but I’ve been trying to learn all I can. This is a very interesting approach to sighting that I haven’t seen before. Thank you.
Thank you. This video was very helpful and informative. As a novice it really helps with the understanding of how drop off works. Please keep up the great work
Ah, the old rifleman's rule. I plan to cover this some time as it's much misunderstood. For now, (simplified) if you always range horizontally the aim point doesn't change, i.e range the tree not the raised target in it.
Thats was Brilliant Jeff..awesome video 👍🤘👌as a new shooter your experience and explanations to any shooting subject I get what your saying.. even though im a bit of numpty trying to work things out sometimes.😂😂 but I loved the way you did that presentation and demonstration of how to use the Mil-Dots and aiming points.. that was ace Jeff.. thanks again.. from Johnny in Scotland 👌🤘👍
A very factual and interesting article about our Be-Loved Sport! Did you make the various mm paddle sized targets? Do you sell them (in U.S.) dimensions.Thanks
Good video Your aim points can change once prone at the peg especially if your shooting down or up on targets.. I always practice at a peg get better results than shooting of a table.. Tree targets are my favourite and it buggers alot of shooters 😂
If your eye alignment is perfect every time, you shouldn't experience a change of aim point in any stance. Shooting high and low targets is different and relates to the 'rifleman's rule. I did a separate video about that, check out video number 25.
@@hftshooter it changes for me when I shoot my springer at the peg I always zero mine prone never on a table as it can be different.. And I've had a few hft champions tell me this aswell
I hear what you're saying Brendan and I experience the same, but it is an eye alignment issue. I've heard other youtube shooters say their aim points change too. It's very difficult to set up a rifle to get perfect eye alignment in more than one stance so you should choose your main one. Think about it; if your eye is perfectly aligned every time you fire there can be no equipment error. It's a technique issue, not an equipment issue.
I think you've misunderstood my friend. This is to help beginners get better scores on the board early on so they don't become disillusioned and give up the sport. Thanks for stopping by. 🙂
Hello and thanks for yet more great content. I have recently returned to shooting after a 20 year break from FT. I’m now shooting “sticks”. If I’m using a 6-24 x 50 on high mounts, how would this change my aim points would you think please? I don’t get a lot of range time as I only get to shoot competitions now and again so any help is really good. I’m currently using at 12 mag with a 35 yard zero, needless to say my kill rate isn’t great… Thanks - Adam
Hi Adam, as you increase your scope height the aim points for ranges above your zero will get closer together and those below will get further apart. It makes the long shots easier but the shorter ones harder unless you're good at ranging. Hope that helps. 🙂👍
@@hftshooter thank you. The thorny subject of zeroing (I need to rewatch your video), you recommend 25 yards? I’m currently at 35 but some people were discussing your videos and a 25 yard zero as being easiest?
Excellent work, something I must do. Silly questions from a none HFT shooter 1) why do we measure the target distance in imperial (yards) and everything else in metric (mm)? and 2) why do some scopes have mil dot reticles and 1/4 moa turrets? seems daft to me if the turret clicks don't match the subtends i.e. 14.4 moa clicks for one mil rather thah a simple 10?
It's usually the US viewers that question our mix of units. I actually prefer 1/4 moa turrets as there is a finer adjustment when zeroing. You're right though, some of our practices don't make much sense.
HI Jeff, Great explanation, helped me no end. What gun were you using there please? If you said I missed it. Edit. Also where did you get the targets (paper) you were using? Worth a coffee.
Hi Mark, thanks for the coffee, very much appreciated. 😀👍 The rifle is my Air Arms S400 in a custom stock and the targets are by 'airtargets' but sadly no longer available. All the best.
I'm interested in trying this HFT game. I understand pellet drop, but how do you convert mm to mil? What about converting for my MOA or my MRAD scope? Is there a formula/site/tool of some kind to help with this? Also, how did you come up with the 10x setting on your scope? Is that where parallax is perfect? Is it published somewhere?
There are plenty of mil to millimetre converts if you search, but for a start 1mm = 39.37 mils. Yes plenty of online tools to help you. Every scope has a magnification where the reticle is a true mildot measurement and on my scope it's 10x. It's usually stated on the box ro in the manual. Parallax is not affected by the magnification, it's the scope focus range that's the key. Check out video number 4 on my channel for more info on MOA and Mrad.
Hlw dear I am from Bangladesh, right now I use a break barrel nitro piston air gun .I am interested to use a scope but there are a lot of china made scople which are PCP rated (glass etched ) .can i use this scope with zero recoil mout ? And how long does it last ? Please your wise suggestion can save my money because break barrel rated scope is too much expensive and not available in our market ....
Hi Imran. I don't use recoil mounts on my airguns. If you use a known make of scope from companies like Hawke, MTC, optisan, discovery, etc I would say you'd be perfectly fine. Good luck. 🙂👍
25 yard zero widely recommended for beginners. Honestly never been shown the 40 yard 4 point idea. I'd be interested to see that. 🙂 Please show me when you're next at Cambridge.
Some excellent advice 👍
As a novice HFT shooter, this is hugely helpful.
Thank you for taking the time and sharing. 🙏
My pleasure mate. 🙂👍
My rifle is a TX200 MK2 and I use this for both FT & HFT, changing scope & stock for both. I can honestly say that shooting from a peg returns better and more consistent results out to 40mtrs with £300 worth of mag 10, than the std FT sitting position on 2 grands worth of mag 50 (but, that's me). FT ranges are sorted, due to the quality of scopes. Assessing HFT ranges require more shooter evaluation, but I'm pretty sure that seasoned HFT shooters have the distances sorted. Therefore, the three biggest known bugs that affect precision are hold/trigger control, wind and competition nerves (the latter especially for the first few targets). This then brings me on to the question of KZ sizes and the distance parameters for each. This, in my view, makes the "Hunter" in HFT lost in the static. All the in-between KZ diameters and distance bands makes the whole thing "fiddly". Would it not be easier to use for example 5 ea 15mm, 10 ea 25mm and 15 ea 35/40mm in a 30 target course, and leave it up to the course builders where to place them ? A quick jury walk around the course is all that's needed to iron out daft targets. Also, bear in mind everyone shoots the same targets and you still get 1 point for a plate in the UK. Am now bracing myself for the onslaught from die-hard HFT veterans ... :)
I think you're right to a point, HFT rules have gone a bit too far in places in my opinion. I shoot ukahft and our targets are set out roughly as you describe, set numbers of each size. The distances are prescribed to some extent, but only because say a 15mm kz would be silly set at 45yards. I agree we should stop scoring for plates because it aids cheating. The whfto rules only score for a kill. Thanks for your comment, I don't think it will upset too many HFT shooters. 😀👍
The UKAHFT rules regarding course layout is so that courses are similarly difficult from club to club. I occasionally shoot at a club where they just put them out wherever they feel like and often it is too easy, members of that club often find it too difficult when they visit other clubs that follow the guidelines. It’s also useful to you as an HFT shooter as you know ‘ ok, that’s a 25mm, it can’t be any further than 40yds, or a 15mm can’t be closer than 13yds’ this is a useful tool when estimating range. I think if it’s to replicate hunting it should be 1 point for a kill, a zero if you miss the target altogether and minus 1 if you only plate it, as this would injure the animal and not necessarily kill it. I don’t imagine that would be a popular scoring system though! Cheers
I must say you definitely go the extra mile. Thank you for your brilliant content. 👍
Wow, thank you! 🙂👍
Another great video with loads to take away as usual. Thanks for your time and effort 👌
Very welcome. 👍
Great video, I've made this a little easier for myself with the use of an ffp scope. Everything stays relative to the cross hire regardless of magnification. Once I was zeros in at 30 metres I worked out the holdunders and holdovers at specific ranges then made a sticker of my reticle with know impact points includes and stuck it on the underside of my scope cap 🙂
Good stuff! 🙂👍
Nice one , never realised that I'd have to hold over to shoot closer
Quality content again, Jeff. Simplifying doesn't have to be a complex process and you've shown that here. The amount of thought you put into your subjects is admirable and the end results are immensely helpful. I've just had a cheek piece and hamster fitted to my rifle, so I need to go over my aim points again before the Sunday competition; I'll be trying out this method to remove another variable or two!
Thanks Martin. 🙂👍
Another well thought out, and presented video… Much appreciated. Hope you get your 1000 subs soon.
Thanks. Fingers crossed!
What a great idea. I haven’t yet begun my journey into Field Target but I’ve been trying to learn all I can. This is a very interesting approach to sighting that I haven’t seen before. Thank you.
You are so welcome! 🙂👍
Brilliant information
Thanks, really clear explanation and well demonstrated. It’s made it easier for me to think about my aim points.
Great to hear! Thanks.
Thank you, you’ve made my life so much easier 👍🏻👌🏼🙏🏼❤️
Happy to help! 🙂👍
Very well thought out video, well presented and helpful. Keep them coming. We'll done. Best
Thanks, will do! 😀👍
Great video
Thanks!
Not shot this comp. But great advice. Very well explained. Thank you.
The best example of how to setup and aim for different distances. Thanks for the advice. San Antonio, Texas
Glad it was helpful! 🙂👍
hey that was a really good video thank you
Glad you enjoyed it. 😀👍
I admire your job. Well done Mr.
Thanks! 🙂👍
this is brilliant. Thank you for putting this together it is helping me so much
Glad it was helpful! 🙂👍
Thank you, ta muchly, thanks!
You're welcome!
Thank you. This video was very helpful and informative. As a novice it really helps with the understanding of how drop off works. Please keep up the great work
Glad you found it useful! 😀👍
Thanks for sharing, great guide.
Glad you enjoyed it! 👍
excellent mate . i will give it a go and see what happens 👍
Great. Let me know if it works for you. 😀👍
@@hftshooter i will mate . i have my aim points but will be interesting to see if it works for a different scope
👍
PS ... very good informative vids mate ;)
Very interesting, will be trying to test this out
Have fun! 😀👍
@@hftshooter I know this would be an entirely new video and complicate matters, raised targets, how much would this change the aim points
Ah, the old rifleman's rule. I plan to cover this some time as it's much misunderstood. For now, (simplified) if you always range horizontally the aim point doesn't change, i.e range the tree not the raised target in it.
Chers Jeff,even I understood😁👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks Alan. 👍
Brilliant video that has taught me a lot about rang and mill dot use. Thank you for putting it in a way that is easy to understand 👍
Very welcome!
Thats was Brilliant Jeff..awesome video 👍🤘👌as a new shooter your experience and explanations to any shooting subject I get what your saying.. even though im a bit of numpty trying to work things out sometimes.😂😂 but I loved the way you did that presentation and demonstration of how to use the Mil-Dots and aiming points.. that was ace Jeff.. thanks again.. from Johnny in Scotland 👌🤘👍
Thanks John. 👍
Excellent
Thank you so much 😀
Brilliant !! Excellent vid ..
Thanks. 😀👍
Brilliant video, thank you 👍🏼
My pleasure! 🙂👍
A very factual and interesting article about our Be-Loved Sport! Did you make the various mm paddle sized targets? Do you sell them (in U.S.) dimensions.Thanks
Thanks. No I don't make targets I bought them online.
@@hftshooter So who sells the paper targets with the distance and paddle size printed on them? Thanks
It was airtargets.co.uk but they're no longer trading unfortunately.
I have both FFP & SFP scopes I didn't catch which one you used ? Excellent video, thanks 👍
I was using a SFP scope. Not being allowed to adjust scope magnification on an HFT course means there's no difference between the two. 👍
Good video
Your aim points can change once prone at the peg especially if your shooting down or up on targets.. I always practice at a peg get better results than shooting of a table.. Tree targets are my favourite and it buggers alot of shooters 😂
If your eye alignment is perfect every time, you shouldn't experience a change of aim point in any stance. Shooting high and low targets is different and relates to the 'rifleman's rule. I did a separate video about that, check out video number 25.
@@hftshooter it changes for me when I shoot my springer at the peg I always zero mine prone never on a table as it can be different.. And I've had a few hft champions tell me this aswell
I hear what you're saying Brendan and I experience the same, but it is an eye alignment issue. I've heard other youtube shooters say their aim points change too. It's very difficult to set up a rifle to get perfect eye alignment in more than one stance so you should choose your main one. Think about it; if your eye is perfectly aligned every time you fire there can be no equipment error. It's a technique issue, not an equipment issue.
Love your vids. Just got red wolf, tuned. It’s a lazer. I’d recommend to anyone with some spare cash. Going to use your aim points on next club meet.
Thanks Steven. Enjoy your Red Wolf and remember that these aim points are a simple starting point for you to build upon and develop. 🙂👍
Great explanation 👌
Thanks. 🙂👍
Totally floored concept, How many times have you scored a 60?
I think you've misunderstood my friend. This is to help beginners get better scores on the board early on so they don't become disillusioned and give up the sport. Thanks for stopping by. 🙂
@@hftshooter ok, so if this is a beginner method can you please do the seasoned shooter method. Cheers 😀
Thanks again for your help.
(The Veggie Shooter)
You're very welcome.
Very informative video, thanks! 👍
Glad it was helpful!
very helpful thanks
You're welcome!
Hello and thanks for yet more great content. I have recently returned to shooting after a 20 year break from FT. I’m now shooting “sticks”.
If I’m using a 6-24 x 50 on high mounts, how would this change my aim points would you think please? I don’t get a lot of range time as I only get to shoot competitions now and again so any help is really good. I’m currently using at 12 mag with a 35 yard zero, needless to say my kill rate isn’t great…
Thanks - Adam
Hi Adam, as you increase your scope height the aim points for ranges above your zero will get closer together and those below will get further apart. It makes the long shots easier but the shorter ones harder unless you're good at ranging. Hope that helps. 🙂👍
@@hftshooter thank you. The thorny subject of zeroing (I need to rewatch your video), you recommend 25 yards? I’m currently at 35 but some people were discussing your videos and a 25 yard zero as being easiest?
The only reason I recommend 25 yards is because HFT aim points are all holdovers so easier for beginners.
Excellent work, something I must do. Silly questions from a none HFT shooter 1) why do we measure the target distance in imperial (yards) and everything else in metric (mm)? and 2) why do some scopes have mil dot reticles and 1/4 moa turrets? seems daft to me if the turret clicks don't match the subtends i.e. 14.4 moa clicks for one mil rather thah a simple 10?
It's usually the US viewers that question our mix of units. I actually prefer 1/4 moa turrets as there is a finer adjustment when zeroing. You're right though, some of our practices don't make much sense.
@@hftshooter I would agree about the finer adjustment out at 400 yards + but at sub 12 ranges it makes little difference
Where did you card the target cards with the kill sizes on please. Great video!
Thanks Chris, unfortunately the company I got the targets from has ceased trading.
@@hftshooter Ok thanks for the reply! 💙
Great content! Where do you get the targets from with the 15 mm to 35 mm kill zones on? Thanks
Thanks. The targets were from airtargets.co.uk but unfortunately they are no longer trading.
HI Jeff,
Great explanation, helped me no end. What gun were you using there please? If you said I missed it.
Edit. Also where did you get the targets (paper) you were using?
Worth a coffee.
Hi Mark, thanks for the coffee, very much appreciated. 😀👍
The rifle is my Air Arms S400 in a custom stock and the targets are by 'airtargets' but sadly no longer available. All the best.
@@hftshooter Thank you Jeff
I'm interested in trying this HFT game. I understand pellet drop, but how do you convert mm to mil?
What about converting for my MOA or my MRAD scope? Is there a formula/site/tool of some kind to help with this?
Also, how did you come up with the 10x setting on your scope? Is that where parallax is perfect? Is it published somewhere?
There are plenty of mil to millimetre converts if you search, but for a start 1mm = 39.37 mils.
Yes plenty of online tools to help you.
Every scope has a magnification where the reticle is a true mildot measurement and on my scope it's 10x. It's usually stated on the box ro in the manual.
Parallax is not affected by the magnification, it's the scope focus range that's the key.
Check out video number 4 on my channel for more info on MOA and Mrad.
Hlw dear
I am from Bangladesh, right now I use a break barrel nitro piston air gun .I am interested to use a scope but there are a lot of china made scople which are PCP rated (glass etched ) .can i use this scope with zero recoil mout ? And how long does it last ? Please your wise suggestion can save my money because break barrel rated scope is too much expensive and not available in our market ....
Hi Imran. I don't use recoil mounts on my airguns. If you use a known make of scope from companies like Hawke, MTC, optisan, discovery, etc I would say you'd be perfectly fine. Good luck. 🙂👍
@@hftshooter thank you very much dear. Discovery is available but may be it is China copy .....❤️❤️❤️
Have you got a set of aim points for 22
No sorry, but check out video number 8 on my channel. That might help.
Why zero at 25 and not 40 yards ? 40 yards offers 4 aim points for a whole course .
25 yard zero widely recommended for beginners. Honestly never been shown the 40 yard 4 point idea. I'd be interested to see that. 🙂 Please show me when you're next at Cambridge.
A 25 yard zero would flatten the trajectory right out
Hi James, as stated in the video a 25 yard zero was used. 👍
@@hftshooter sorry I got my words muddled a bit, love the videos I've subscribed
No problem mate. Thanks for the sub. 🙂👍