When I’ve done ours as soon as I hit the air. The cylinder went to the bottom. I kept air pressure on it and changed the springs. But the “Pucker Factor” was thru the roof in the process. Very glad I came across this video! 😬
So far I've had good success but I have only done a triple spring roller once or twice. I may need to take a hard look at mine for any stress. I think mine is a lisle brand but this spring compressor is a basic cheap model sold under 10 different names so who knows. Thanks for the tip.
my dad puts small rope into the cylinder then rolls it up to tight with head n valves. they dont try to fall. absolutely no worry of em dropping without physically rolling crankshaft
If it works and you are comfortable doing it I sure won't knock you for it. I'm scared of stuffing because if the motor was rolled for any reason, the stuffing drops and then the valve but let's be honest thats highly unlikely. And honestly this is good feedback because I know I overlook stuff or am too set in just one way and need this feedback to remind me. So thank you.
the professional way is as jason stated in the video. but its just a different way to skin a cat with air on hand or the fancy fittins/tools. paracord att walmart works fine. just fill it up.
Ever check the install height? The three we have sit at about 1.750, ours mic’d at 1.762. We’re allowed 1.700. The difference between 1.750 and 1.700 is about 20 pounds of spring pressure. Any HP gains are huge in a class where everyone has the same.
Ian, that is so true! No I did not but this engine of Dylan's was freshened by a certified builder who I am sure did (well I hope so :). The springs were a matched set but yes I will absolutely mention this to Dylan and the next time we put springs on we will check it. Thanks for bringing this up.
@@DIRTRACELIFE yes sir! Just make sure to check if your shims are laying flat on the head. These heads have a little lip and most shims won’t sit down all the way to give an accurate reading. We actually had to machine our mic to fit and also the shims. Love the vids and how educational they are. Keep up the good work!
I've had success with 1/4 turn but there's also a way to run the lifter near the bottom of it's travel. Less oil in the lifter, possibly an improvement in control at higher rpms. Also prefer the EOIC method on bigger cam stuff but I've built the habbit of just using that one method.
That's a cylinder compression valve holder. I attached it to a regulator gage just so I could reduce the air pressure down some. You can use just the hose at 100 or more psi and not use an air regulator to cut it back to 80 or 90 psi but if the engine isn't on exact top dead center for the cylinder you are working on, the extra pressure can roll the engine over 180 degrees fairly easy. You can put the car in gear to stop that as another way, but make sure you scotch the wheels well to keep it from moving. Here's a link to an inexpensive one: www.amazon.com/dp/B000COC7ZU/ref=as_sl_pc_as_ss_li_til?tag=dirtracelif04-20&linkCode=w00&linkId=2dbbf8686af1c6c85d5572d9a51a9e0e&creativeASIN=B000COC7ZU
I've always heard 10 races as well but for many it may be close enough to just call it a season and put a fresh set on every spring like I did here for Dylan. Weak springs rob your top end. They make the hp curve drop suddenly at higher rpm due to bounce. It will stay make the same power it just may run out of power as your rpms increase. Like having a rev limiter on. But very destructive.
Keep in mind you don't have a lash setting on hydraulic valve trains. By preloading into the hydraulic lifter you are in full contact with the valve and are applying pressure. Valve lash applies to solid lifters where additional clearance is needed to allow for heat expansion, harmonics, and to allow the valve to seat at closure. On a hydraulic setup the piston in the lifter does this instead and that is the reason you preload into it.
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I appreciate the detail you go to in all your work. This will help a lot of racers out!!!
Thank you Craig, I appreciate you watching.
When I’ve done ours as soon as I hit the air. The cylinder went to the bottom. I kept air pressure on it and changed the springs. But the “Pucker Factor” was thru the roof in the process. Very glad I came across this video! 😬
I'm still always nervous doing them but I try to stick to the routine and just make sure I do it exactly the same way every time.
Another awesome vid and thanks for the shout out
Absolutely!
I love the Sportsmans those are my favorite
It sure seems like it is growing as a class :)
Had that spring compressor last 2 valve springs, 3rd one broke an ear off. Can tell it was junk metal. Glad you've had success though. Good video
So far I've had good success but I have only done a triple spring roller once or twice. I may need to take a hard look at mine for any stress. I think mine is a lisle brand but this spring compressor is a basic cheap model sold under 10 different names so who knows. Thanks for the tip.
my dad puts small rope into the cylinder then rolls it up to tight with head n valves. they dont try to fall. absolutely no worry of em dropping without physically rolling crankshaft
If it works and you are comfortable doing it I sure won't knock you for it. I'm scared of stuffing because if the motor was rolled for any reason, the stuffing drops and then the valve but let's be honest thats highly unlikely.
And honestly this is good feedback because I know I overlook stuff or am too set in just one way and need this feedback to remind me. So thank you.
That's the way I learned it too.
the professional way is as jason stated in the video. but its just a different way to skin a cat with air on hand or the fancy fittins/tools. paracord att walmart works fine. just fill it up.
Ever check the install height? The three we have sit at about 1.750, ours mic’d at 1.762. We’re allowed 1.700. The difference between 1.750 and 1.700 is about 20 pounds of spring pressure. Any HP gains are huge in a class where everyone has the same.
Ian, that is so true! No I did not but this engine of Dylan's was freshened by a certified builder who I am sure did (well I hope so :). The springs were a matched set but yes I will absolutely mention this to Dylan and the next time we put springs on we will check it. Thanks for bringing this up.
@@DIRTRACELIFE yes sir! Just make sure to check if your shims are laying flat on the head. These heads have a little lip and most shims won’t sit down all the way to give an accurate reading. We actually had to machine our mic to fit and also the shims. Love the vids and how educational they are. Keep up the good work!
I've had success with 1/4 turn but there's also a way to run the lifter near the bottom of it's travel. Less oil in the lifter, possibly an improvement in control at higher rpms.
Also prefer the EOIC method on bigger cam stuff but I've built the habbit of just using that one method.
What is that hose with the gauge called? And where do you have it connected? Like an air compressor? And where is it in the engine?
That's a cylinder compression valve holder. I attached it to a regulator gage just so I could reduce the air pressure down some. You can use just the hose at 100 or more psi and not use an air regulator to cut it back to 80 or 90 psi but if the engine isn't on exact top dead center for the cylinder you are working on, the extra pressure can roll the engine over 180 degrees fairly easy. You can put the car in gear to stop that as another way, but make sure you scotch the wheels well to keep it from moving. Here's a link to an inexpensive one:
www.amazon.com/dp/B000COC7ZU/ref=as_sl_pc_as_ss_li_til?tag=dirtracelif04-20&linkCode=w00&linkId=2dbbf8686af1c6c85d5572d9a51a9e0e&creativeASIN=B000COC7ZU
Do u change every season.. or... 10 races. Also.. how much power do u lose from weak valve springs.
I've always heard 10 races as well but for many it may be close enough to just call it a season and put a fresh set on every spring like I did here for Dylan.
Weak springs rob your top end. They make the hp curve drop suddenly at higher rpm due to bounce. It will stay make the same power it just may run out of power as your rpms increase. Like having a rev limiter on. But very destructive.
Do you just put preload on it and not set your valve lash?? I was wondering how to set the lash?
Keep in mind you don't have a lash setting on hydraulic valve trains. By preloading into the hydraulic lifter you are in full contact with the valve and are applying pressure. Valve lash applies to solid lifters where additional clearance is needed to allow for heat expansion, harmonics, and to allow the valve to seat at closure. On a hydraulic setup the piston in the lifter does this instead and that is the reason you preload into it.
I’ve seen people stuff rope in the cylinders numerous times to hold the valves without issues
I'm scared of it but it's more common than I realized and plenty are comfortable with it so I'm learning something too :)
put it in gear after TDC is set, then the air will not push the piston down.
Yes sir, that works too!