Great video Brock. Even with experience removing broken bolts is a tough task and everyone is different. Thanks for showing the extractor breaking because it definitely does happen especially with small bolts. But you showed not to get upset and take your time and try other options. Very enjoyable and educational video Brock.
Brock, Great explanation. Ive also removed hundreds of bolts over the years on the farm and when i was a heavy equipment mechanic. Its a great skill to have.
I am having issues with some shaped T30s on a side panel of a car. Tried the dremel cut to twist with flatscreen but that failed because the screw metal seems soft. Waiting on my extractor from Amazon right now. I did learn to use impact driver on low in order to make it work. Thank you for your help.😊
You have to let it cool though. That allows the bolt to shrink faster than the surrounding metal, allowing the gap you need to free it up. Heat alone simply expands the bolt into the surrounding, and can make it even tighter at first!
Good morning Brock. Absolutely excellent video. Anybody who says that they never had that much trouble getting out a broken bolt or stud has never taken out a broken bolt or stud. You did a great service for a lot of people with this video. God bless and have a wonderful day. 👍👍🙂
Well done video. In some cases, the old saying of "you get what you pay for" can be true of extractors, up to a point. Glad you covered various options and noted your novice welder experience. I am not sure I am a novice welder, but not much further along either. Right with you there. Getting a center punch in the center and not having the drill bit walk has been my most difficult challenge. The best case I have experienced is where a bolt snapped off in usage but remained in the mating part. Pulled the part off (4wd manual locking hub) and used the oddly broken bolt to spin the remaining threaded portion out of the hole. I count it a blessing to have had that occur twice.
Removing broken bolts is a art that takes time to learn and every situation is different there is no simple way that works every time workig i the same factory you did people would often bring me things they had already attempted and were messed up one broken bolt can turn a normal day into a nightmare
Nice work and good info. Your centering skills are impeccable. 😃 After years in the auto repair field I have had success with a variety of methods but find the vise grip on the threads if exposed to be quicker than the welded nut. Drill only if recessed. One suggestion I don't believe you covered is to take a look at the backside when accessible. Sometimes you find easier access there.
Good points. I did get the hang of centering it over the years. Even if you start a little off, you can correct it and don’t get in a hurry until it’s on Center in case you have to drill the whole thing out.
Hey Brock, thanks for all this good info!! On another note, awhile back you shared some personal info and some plans for your health. I hope that is going well!! Those coveralls are looking a little loose on you lately, I hope that means your health-plan is working for you!
Hello Brock. Excellent video. You are a very patient man. How long did it take you to extract the two bolts? When you hold a tool close to the camera, it would help if you had a macro or close-up lens.
Yeah, I’m kind of frustrated with my camera that it doesn’t want to focus when I get it up close. May switch back to the one I had before this one. I was out there for about three hours but I took a couple phone calls and I was messing with the camera so I don’t know
It can't be stuck if its liquid lol. My experience is use the bit that's almost the size of the bolt but keep center best you can to not get into the threads. The when you use the extrator it should come out really easy. Personally I'm not big on using the ones like your icon kit and prefer the other kit style you showed. If all fails and have to drill out the bolt and threads you can always re-tap the whole or use riv-nuts and have been using them alot lately and are very handy and convenient to use. Don't feel bad about breaking an easy out. We break the matco and Mac ones all the time at work.
I've owned CJs and Wranglers since 1987 and am very familiar with rusty Jeep parts. A couple of years ago I invested in a magnetic coil induction heater. I had put off spending the money for quite a while. I can tell you that they are worth the investment. I removed and replaced the fenders on my Wrangler last week and was able to remove all of the rusty fender bolts without breaking them off and there was only one with a really corroded head that began to round off. The magnetic coil induction heater was able to heat the bolts without much of risk of catching the Jeep on fire.
If you have tig, run just enough current to get the bolt cherry red before doing anything else. Softens up hardened bolts and helps break up the rust locking things up
I broke easy out also. Heated and welded, no go on M14 1.5 thread. Used welder to remove easy out with nut on it, but weld would not stick to zinc hardened broken bolt recessed in hole some.
Howdy Brock! Been a loooong time since I had to extract a bolt. We are talking early 90's lol, so this was an excellent video for me. I don't remember squat from back then! I like one of the other suggestions - going up a size and re-tapping the hole. Or, if you can get to it from below... maybe a longer bolt and loctite a nut on the end. Well done and thanks for sharing 🤠
Hi Brock, I don't think you made as many mistakes as you mentioned, extracting bolts can be brutal and has a component of luck; but there are other procedures I would have considered before starting - only if this wasn't an instructional video. For others reading this comment, I think it's important for those new, to see the the many unsuccessfull common processes, which would eventually lead to other more direct solutions - doing them and showing them was not wrong, but educating in many ways; passing along 'failures' - as some would call them, are more beneficial than successes. I feel this point is the most important part of this response. My general suggestion: 1. Properly clean & examine all viewable sides of the bolt environment - i.e. underneath to allow flr comsiderations of more practical options. 2. Heat is very helpfull and I usually will go to that first IF the material around the bolt can be heated. By heating the bolt and not the material around it, the bolt will expand grow in diameter and really push into the female threads locking it in even more. For this I would have deposited a pool of penetrating fluid atop the bolt, then heated the 1/4" thick material - around the bolt, under the bed and most importantly let all metal cool, which should create gaps between male & female threads. Do this step until some poping is heard, then try only when cool try extractors. Each heat and cool cycle will allow for penetrating fluid to seep down between the threads, then next time heat is applied, the embedded fluid will work with the female thread material to push the threads apart a little more and as the oxidation bond is severed by the metal's expansion popping will be heard. 3. After examining the under the jeeps bed, probably would have seen a cone of oxidation built up around the bolt and attaching to the female thread material, repeated heating WILL still be helpfull in the end, but in this case where there is significant corrosion, or if heating the material around the bolt is not practical, save time, effort and pain and drill the bolt out and install a thread adaptor to continue using the stock bolt. There is allot more detail to what I mentioned, but the broad strokes will help point the way. Good luck.
I would have used a punch to "shock" the bolt with hard hammer hits. That would possibly stretch the holes threads and create some space between the bolt and hole diameter. Also, I would weld a "washer" to the bolt first, filling the center cavity with weld. And then weld the bolt to the "washer". Thus, avoiding unintentionally welding the nut to the truck bed.
Not sure it would have helped here, however many times I have used self tapping 1/4" or 5/16" screws to make the holes, pending how hard the metal is. As apposed to drill bits
The problem on mine is the bolt is seized, I grab whats left of the bolt body w locking pliers, but the bolt does not move at all. I have torched the area, applied lubricant, no movement at all. Did the two nut locking trick and it ate the thread, thats how bad the bolt is seized. I was swapping a defective lower suspension arm bushing, and one of the bolt heads snapped (after doing some research it is a known issue w bad batch or VW bolts). I am about to snap whats left of the bolt body, and drill it out, retap (as the surface of the frame where the bolt is seized is aluminum). Last resort is to replace the whole left side subframe, and that is another ordeal, have to lower the subframe, to clear for the left side frame control arm swivel bolt against the dsg transmission.
I have a metal piece that goes in a washing machine transmission. They are no longer made. A screwed in pin broke in two places leaving a small section of threaded screw in the hole...the head came off and the stuck part is down in there. I'm having a devil if a time getting this out. A ten dollar new pin will fix the washer but this stuck bolt has to come out first....and it's a small bolt.
If you have a right handed drillbit and spin it backwards, it doesn’t do anything. The teeth aren’t set to cut that way. You can drill a hole with the left-handed bit while spinning the drill backward. The cutting edges will dig into the bolt and potentially spin it out.
Why don't you wear safety glasses? You mentioned embarrassing in the video. Would it be embarrassing if you were blind in one or both eyes? It is so easy to do and could really save you.
At 15:35 I cringed when you put your face next to the drill when pushing hard with a 1/8 inch bit. That size bit breaks easily. You should have had on safety glasses.
1/27/24..2day..removing broken bolts..oh yes, great topic, great honest visuals of several failed attempts with various chemicals, extraction bits/sizes until slowest/best method/drill out got results. Problem with this type of video, you dont have some (xyz) close up lense to show the (almost) microscopic view for we visual imperative types..with exactly same experiences as you have had...& like you...will continue to have in the future as long as we work on our (or customers) equipment. So great subject today, no shame in trial & error-steel IS hard stuff- but your investment in a close up lense for your (or a new) camera can show clearly the problem, 'dutchman-in-t-hole' but Brock, t close up lense can also show off the TOOLS available for the solutions...hello a few sponsor's...including the camera 📸 & c-u lenses! ..stay warm & carry on!💪⚙️🔩🛠🍺😊
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video Brock. Even with experience removing broken bolts is a tough task and everyone is different. Thanks for showing the extractor breaking because it definitely does happen especially with small bolts. But you showed not to get upset and take your time and try other options. Very enjoyable and educational video Brock.
Brock, Great explanation. Ive also removed hundreds of bolts over the years on the farm and when i was a heavy equipment mechanic. Its a great skill to have.
I am having issues with some shaped T30s on a side panel of a car. Tried the dremel cut to twist with flatscreen but that failed because the screw metal seems soft. Waiting on my extractor from Amazon right now. I did learn to use impact driver on low in order to make it work.
Thank you for your help.😊
Don’t forget. HEAT is your friend! 🔥 This is why welding a nut on works so well because it also heats up the bolt.
You have to let it cool though. That allows the bolt to shrink faster than the surrounding metal, allowing the gap you need to free it up. Heat alone simply expands the bolt into the surrounding, and can make it even tighter at first!
Good morning Brock. Absolutely excellent video. Anybody who says that they never had that much trouble getting out a broken bolt or stud has never taken out a broken bolt or stud. You did a great service for a lot of people with this video. God bless and have a wonderful day. 👍👍🙂
This was great information gave me information I needed
Well done video. In some cases, the old saying of "you get what you pay for" can be true of extractors, up to a point. Glad you covered various options and noted your novice welder experience. I am not sure I am a novice welder, but not much further along either. Right with you there. Getting a center punch in the center and not having the drill bit walk has been my most difficult challenge.
The best case I have experienced is where a bolt snapped off in usage but remained in the mating part. Pulled the part off (4wd manual locking hub) and used the oddly broken bolt to spin the remaining threaded portion out of the hole. I count it a blessing to have had that occur twice.
Removing broken bolts is a art that takes time to learn and every situation is different there is no simple way that works every time workig i the same factory you did people would often bring me things they had already attempted and were messed up one broken bolt can turn a normal day into a nightmare
Good video, thanks for sharing your knowledge! I have a project where this will help out. Much appreciated!
Great video Brock
Thank you for the video Brock! I have a lot to do on my 99 TJ and I'm sure I'm going to encounter a snapped bolt.
I love Jeeps, but they can be aggravating to work on sometimes
Hopefully early next week we’ve got a big transformation video out on what we did to it
Nice work and good info. Your centering skills are impeccable. 😃
After years in the auto repair field I have had success with a variety of methods but find the vise grip on the threads if exposed to be quicker than the welded nut. Drill only if recessed.
One suggestion I don't believe you covered is to take a look at the backside when accessible. Sometimes you find easier access there.
Good points. I did get the hang of centering it over the years. Even if you start a little off, you can correct it and don’t get in a hurry until it’s on Center in case you have to drill the whole thing out.
Hey Brock, thanks for all this good info!!
On another note, awhile back you shared some personal info and some plans for your health. I hope that is going well!! Those coveralls are looking a little loose on you lately, I hope that means your health-plan is working for you!
Hello Brock. Excellent video. You are a very patient man.
How long did it take you to extract the two bolts?
When you hold a tool close to the camera, it would help if you had a macro or close-up lens.
Yeah, I’m kind of frustrated with my camera that it doesn’t want to focus when I get it up close. May switch back to the one I had before this one.
I was out there for about three hours but I took a couple phone calls and I was messing with the camera so I don’t know
It can't be stuck if its liquid lol.
My experience is use the bit that's almost the size of the bolt but keep center best you can to not get into the threads. The when you use the extrator it should come out really easy. Personally I'm not big on using the ones like your icon kit and prefer the other kit style you showed.
If all fails and have to drill out the bolt and threads you can always re-tap the whole or use riv-nuts and have been using them alot lately and are very handy and convenient to use.
Don't feel bad about breaking an easy out. We break the matco and Mac ones all the time at work.
I've owned CJs and Wranglers since 1987 and am very familiar with rusty Jeep parts. A couple of years ago I invested in a magnetic coil induction heater. I had put off spending the money for quite a while. I can tell you that they are worth the investment. I removed and replaced the fenders on my Wrangler last week and was able to remove all of the rusty fender bolts without breaking them off and there was only one with a really corroded head that began to round off. The magnetic coil induction heater was able to heat the bolts without much of risk of catching the Jeep on fire.
If you have tig, run just enough current to get the bolt cherry red before doing anything else.
Softens up hardened bolts and helps break up the rust locking things up
Add a gusset plate to get your threads back, or go up to the next size bolt, at least a grade 5 or maybe grade 8. If metric a 12.9 if you can!
I broke easy out also. Heated and welded, no go on M14 1.5 thread. Used welder to remove easy out with nut on it, but weld would not stick to zinc hardened broken bolt recessed in hole some.
Howdy Brock! Been a loooong time since I had to extract a bolt. We are talking early 90's lol, so this was an excellent video for me. I don't remember squat from back then! I like one of the other suggestions - going up a size and re-tapping the hole. Or, if you can get to it from below... maybe a longer bolt and loctite a nut on the end. Well done and thanks for sharing 🤠
Thanks for being straight up! Going through my own "problem".
1st I always heat the bolt then spray fluid on bolt. Heat will draw fluid in. U might have do it twice. Then do what u gotta do.
.
Excellent video, the good, the bad and the ugly. Real life situations!
Hi Brock, I don't think you made as many mistakes as you mentioned, extracting bolts can be brutal and has a component of luck; but there are other procedures I would have considered before starting - only if this wasn't an instructional video.
For others reading this comment, I think it's important for those new, to see the the many unsuccessfull common processes, which would eventually lead to other more direct solutions - doing them and showing them was not wrong, but educating in many ways; passing along 'failures' - as some would call them, are more beneficial than successes. I feel this point is the most important part of this response.
My general suggestion:
1. Properly clean & examine all viewable sides of the bolt environment - i.e. underneath to allow flr comsiderations of more practical options.
2. Heat is very helpfull and I usually will go to that first IF the material around the bolt can be heated. By heating the bolt and not the material around it, the bolt will expand grow in diameter and really push into the female threads locking it in even more. For this I would have deposited a pool of penetrating fluid atop the bolt, then heated the 1/4" thick material - around the bolt, under the bed and most importantly let all metal cool, which should create gaps between male & female threads. Do this step until some poping is heard, then try only when cool try extractors. Each heat and cool cycle will allow for penetrating fluid to seep down between the threads, then next time heat is applied, the embedded fluid will work with the female thread material to push the threads apart a little more and as the oxidation bond is severed by the metal's expansion popping will be heard.
3. After examining the under the jeeps bed, probably would have seen a cone of oxidation built up around the bolt and attaching to the female thread material, repeated heating WILL still be helpfull in the end, but in this case where there is significant corrosion, or if heating the material around the bolt is not practical, save time, effort and pain and drill the bolt out and install a thread adaptor to continue using the stock bolt.
There is allot more detail to what I mentioned, but the broad strokes will help point the way.
Good luck.
I would have used a punch to "shock" the bolt with hard hammer hits. That would possibly stretch the holes threads and create some space between the bolt and hole diameter. Also, I would weld a "washer" to the bolt first, filling the center cavity with weld. And then weld the bolt to the "washer". Thus, avoiding unintentionally welding the nut to the truck bed.
Could you have gotten to it from the bottom side?
Not sure it would have helped here, however many times I have used self tapping 1/4" or 5/16" screws to make the holes, pending how hard the metal is. As apposed to drill bits
I always have better luck with the square extractors, the spiral looking ones always break.
The problem on mine is the bolt is seized, I grab whats left of the bolt body w locking pliers, but the bolt does not move at all. I have torched the area, applied lubricant, no movement at all. Did the two nut locking trick and it ate the thread, thats how bad the bolt is seized.
I was swapping a defective lower suspension arm bushing, and one of the bolt heads snapped (after doing some research it is a known issue w bad batch or VW bolts).
I am about to snap whats left of the bolt body, and drill it out, retap (as the surface of the frame where the bolt is seized is aluminum).
Last resort is to replace the whole left side subframe, and that is another ordeal, have to lower the subframe, to clear for the left side frame control arm swivel bolt against the dsg transmission.
I have a metal piece that goes in a washing machine transmission. They are no longer made. A screwed in pin broke in two places leaving a small section of threaded screw in the hole...the head came off and the stuck part is down in there. I'm having a devil if a time getting this out. A ten dollar new pin will fix the washer but this stuck bolt has to come out first....and it's a small bolt.
Morning
Dang your fast
@@projectswithjw I just finished watching the video , took me 1:33 min to finish it , almost as slow as Brock taking out a bolt 🤪lol just messing
Morning Todd
Good morning
I’ve never seen left hand drill bits. I thought that was what reverse on the drill was for.
If you have a right handed drillbit and spin it backwards, it doesn’t do anything. The teeth aren’t set to cut that way.
You can drill a hole with the left-handed bit while spinning the drill backward. The cutting edges will dig into the bolt and potentially spin it out.
Why don't you wear safety glasses? You mentioned embarrassing in the video. Would it be embarrassing if you were blind in one or both eyes?
It is so easy to do and could really save you.
I have never had much luck with store bought bolt extraction they just aren't good metal.
At 15:35 I cringed when you put your face next to the drill when pushing hard with a 1/8 inch bit. That size bit breaks easily. You should have had on safety glasses.
SAFETY GLASSES!!!
An hour in, I would have just gone, and bought a new truck.
1/27/24..2day..removing broken bolts..oh yes, great topic, great honest visuals of several failed attempts with various chemicals, extraction bits/sizes until slowest/best method/drill out got results. Problem with this type of video, you dont have some (xyz) close up lense to show the (almost) microscopic view for we visual imperative types..with exactly same experiences as you have had...& like you...will continue to have in the future as long as we work on our (or customers) equipment. So great subject today, no shame in trial & error-steel IS hard stuff- but your investment in a close up lense for your (or a new) camera can show clearly the problem, 'dutchman-in-t-hole' but Brock, t close up lense can also show off the TOOLS available for the solutions...hello a few sponsor's...including the camera 📸 & c-u lenses! ..stay warm & carry on!💪⚙️🔩🛠🍺😊