While you're in there... Consider 2 changes. Remove the little diamond shaped plate from the oil cooler housing and put a bead of your favourite gasket maker to seal it. Consider changing the coolant hose adapter that goes into the head under the oil filter housing; you can get an aluminum version from eBay for relatively cheap (I think I paid $25 cdn)
i would mention also the MickeyMouse fitting for Coolant Hose located in front . Definitely replace that plastic piece with aluminum one. Wont leave you stranded once the plastic will get brittle and splash all coolant around .
Yeah, kind of interested to see how long it all takes dropping the subframe down vs changing the turbos while the engine was still in the car. should be a good week none the less.
Gaskets, pain in the but, got all mine done, so no more leaks, OFHG, VCG, Oil Pan, Crank Seals front and rear. Common leak points. Great idea to do them now, since you have the engine out already. 👍 Did the belts and pulleys as well since mine had ingested the old ones but managed to save the engine 😣 The Crank seal plate which prevents the belts from being ingested by the engine, is a good idea though, especially since you have the engine out.
You’re a lucky man doing this all out of the car preventatively! I never used to torque bolts to spec either but I recently invested in a torque wrench and it takes all the guess work out...worth it 👌
After seeing Jakes snap on torque wrenches yesterday, i kinda want one, really bad. haha. I have taken the approach of trying to learn how tight things should be. But it's about time, i got and did things properly. Oh and if it makes you feel any better, i have done all of these items on the e92, while the engine was in the car.... Was definitely a slightly longer process.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Definitely get one ! (or maybe rather 2 or 3 depending on torque capacity/size and good quallity/proper calibrated as well) You will also need one to properly tighten those oil pan aluminium screws. I cannot recommend using the "go-by-feel" on these, as you did in this video! BMW has different torque specs for the different lengths of oil pan screws on the N54 (M8x26 = 8 Nm+60 deg. ; M8x36 = 8 Nm+90 deg. (cannot remember if this size was used) ; M8x92/112 = 8 Nm+120 deg.) - so obviously, if not following these, there is high chance they will not be tightened enough or you simply snap one or more, depending on your feel for aluminium screws. Did my oil pan gasket a few months ago, with the engine in car, and it's not something I want to redo (or even just getting access to re-tighten them) anytime soon, due to inproperly torqued screws , LOL😅
These bolts, x amt of NM the 1/4 turn more...this passes the point of plasticity, meaning stretch it more or again and fatigue sets in, or it breaks. This is some techincalndoodoo - term of art - and if you own an engine stand, if you know where the subframe is, if you're a monocoque -- get a torquer, get three, at least one that's digital, and stop your (oilpan) weeping!
@@uisperfectemail9720 I’m very glad I just have rwd. It’s an excellent opportunity to do some preventative maintenance. Especially water pump and thermostat.
I would have checked the oil pump bolts. I actually has one that had snapped. There are instances where they work loose may want to check before u put it in
if you can, get the IS engine mounts, will save you the pain later and will be better for avoiding the issue with the accesory belt. May as well use the fact that everything is off and change the Orings for the manifold, mine were toasted when I cleaned the valves and were leaking boost, also the palstic hose union with the thermostat, change that to a metalic one, the palstic one just cracks and selfdestructs with time, its like 20 bucks and gives you peace of mind that you will not have a hose jump out and drop coolant everywhere
Id make sure to also do the front and rear main seals while the engine is out. Instead of a regular oil cap maybe consider the VTT one way crankcase breather if you arent doing the front and rear seals. Its supposed to protect against blowing those out or cracking your valve cover.
Idk how that’d work, especially on an awd model. Doesnt the oil pick up/oil pump get in the way of just sliding the gasket in? Anyway, i just did mine a couple months back. Huge pain in the butt
Use several zip ties to hold the sump gasket in place until you have most of the bolts started and then clip the zip ties off. Great tip that I saw on another channel.
I have had both a leak from the sump gasket and have also had to replace my rocker cover as it had a hairline crack in it. Well worth renewing these while the engine is out as it will save so much effort in doing them when the motor is back in. Loving the videos and can't wait to see the car back up and running 👍👍
Great work. Getting closer. One thing you might want to get. But can be accessed later. Is a billet flange for the cylinder coolant hose outlet. I've just got mine off to do a silicon/billet upgrade kit. And the factory one was snapped off. Previous owner just siliconed it back in....dodgy. car only has claimed 90.000ks
That is definitely the most mentioned item in this comment section it would seem. I did replace the one on the e92 a few months ago. Hopefully get another few years out of that one.
@@ZeroTo60Tube apologies I didn't read all the comments. I was told once one hose starts to go they are all due. I was pleased I got the kit. Because the u shaped hose on the back of the water pump has also started to expand and lose wall strength. Here is the link to the kit I got. Took 3 weeks to get here as it was on back order. About $670 Aus landed. Not too bad when you start adding up factory hose cost. vargasturbo.com/product/vtt-billet-silicone-n54-coolant-hose-kit/
Highly recommend getting a cheap tradetools torque wrench, in my experience it makes the rubber gaskets last a lot longer than the calibrated wrist does Seen so many ofhg leak within 12 months when not torqued
Just replaced my oil cover gasket on my 2009 BMW 335i (up top). Car is still leaking engine oil. Could it be the oil pan gasket needing to be replaced also?
You can get to the back oil filter housing bolt without taking off the manifold. 1/4 extension with a swivel joint. Must all be 1/4", 3/8" is too big. I did this twice on an E61 LCI and E87 N52 models without removing the manifold.
Not only can the PCV/valve cover crack but they can get clogged up in that inner chamber and cause excessive crank case pressure. Almost always best to get a new valve cover because you get new bolts and new gasket all in one.
Are you getting new engine mounts? Might as well refresh them when everything’s out 🤷🏻♂️ I recommend looking at the 335is mount for the turbo side 👍🏼 Oh and it’s worth replacing the water pump hose to engine connector with a billet unit- it’s usually plastic
To go into more detail about the valve cover cracking thing - because of the way the PCV system is set up in these, a crack in the cover can cause a boost leak if it manages to propagate into the PCV chambers. Most of them just leak oil though. I epoxied my new rocker cover where the cracks appear (inside and out) to try and get more longevity out of it. I've also done my sump gasket with new bolts, and if I were to do it again I think I'd just silicone it and replace the aluminium bolts with steel. It's just two flat faces down there, and I think the silicon would outlast the rubber gasket - it certainly seems to on all my Japanese cars. And aluminium torque-to-yield sump bolts just seems ridiculous.
Well that little coolant fitting, i one of the few issues i haven't been blessed with experiencing. I actually fitted a new one when i did the turbos a few months ago. I figured the factory plastics ones normally last 8-10 years, so its nothing too scary.
did you give the filters on the vanos solinoids a good clean with brake or throttle body cleaner the sives on them are really fine mine were slightly blocked cleaned them and the car runs great now are you going to put arp bolts on the ring gear and torque converter
I actually bought new ones, as they weren't too bad price wise when i did the fcp order. However i have cleaned the old ones and kept them for a rainy day. Nah, i wont be going with arp bolt on the ring gear or torque converter. Just standard ones on this setup.
I'm sure as the motor will be sitting for awhile, you'll tape up or cover up those orifices (intakes,exhaust, spark, oil cap), would not be fun having to open it back up.
When you fit the motor make sure you have a new coolant hose near the lower oil cooler bolt or an aftermarket alloy fitting mine fell apart when i did the OFHG and now i have to wait for it.
I go for an alloy one, as the plastic will fail. You can remove the old one by just crushing/crimping down on the hose where it's connected. The hose itself will last a long time.
I wasn't mainly because the last one i did dry and it was perfect. Also being able to see all around the head while its on the stand, makes it a risk free procedure. I can actually see its located perfectly which is nice.
keep up the great work ! love the bits on the E39 M5 especially . on the N54 I'm curious did you ever consider a block insert(closed deck setup ) to strengthen those cylinder bores?
Did the oil pan gasket on mine awd....all suspension taken apart subframe down take the cv's out...take the front diff out...take the power steering off...alot of cussing and alot of beers later good as new.
@@ZeroTo60Tube oh god ya it's a pain. Not to mention had to change the cv as well on top of it all so had to deal with going to part store and them handing me the wrong cv twice...came close to snapping. haha
I have no issues with the china valve covers. This one is still fine. Another i used on another car for 2 motors. I think the plastic is fine, you just need to expect issues around the 5-10 year mark.
@@ZeroTo60Tube that’s good to know Beats paying almost $1k for BMW part I was considering getting Elring gasket and valve cover for $400 given they are OE for gasket but might save the money and get Chinese for $150 Did you still use OE for the Gasket? Ps love your work
I just did the rocker cover on my 325i. No leaks, but the socket slipped on a couple of the bolts once they were tight and I think a couple may be stripped. This worries me a lot incase I cant get them off again if my shaft sensor thing goes. any ideas on how I would get them off?
Zero To 60 all good, the head of the bolts basically are a little mashed up. I think that really bitchy one in the back left corner could be damaged too 😳
Because being on the automotive industry for the last 20 years working around actual workshops and even running race teams. For the work I do myself, I shouldn’t need a torque wrench lol. I think the internet really slows down a lot of people’s progress on the tools. All the real mechanics I know only use them from for head bolts and bearings.
Not this time. Both seemed fine and the motor is just temporary while i build the other one. It was all about spending as little as possible this time round to save up for what’s coming bext
You gotta remember this is an N54 it wants to hurt your feelings and bank account. Seen it happen a few times in the Facebook groups from alternators going bad and ps pump 🤷🏻♂️I got one on mine cause it’s 100 bucks and I know I don’t gotta worry about it plus you got the engine on a stand right now
Hi, great progress! Do you already know what killed the other engine? Maybe too agressive timing? I'm running 25psi with 27psi peaks when boost builds up. Runs great, I just wonder for how long, since yours gave up at 27psi.
You running stock turbos or upgraded ones? I rebuilt mine and have stronger internals so im currently building an easy 20-21 psi. Might save your front and rear main seal by getting one of those VTT crank case one way breathers.
@@milehighboost5521 Running upgraded twins with 11blade compressor wheels. My rear seal already leaked before i did the upgrade, I will have to change it anyway someday. If you have stronger internals, 21psi should be nothing I guess.
Thanks very much for the offer. I will need one sooner or later. But no mad rush. The plastic one on this motor is only a couple of months old. So should have a few years in it yet. Hopefully is funds allow, i would love to build this e92 motor to a forged spec and fully blinged out over the next year or so.
Would it make sense for you to mount an oil pan baffle? I know it's technically a bit late, but maybe you wanna track it eventually and rather get it done now when the engine is out. Cheers mate =)
I honestly wanted to, but couldn't track one down in time. I do want to circuit this car at some point so i will need one. Do you know of any reasonably priced kits?
@@ZeroTo60Tube store.vacmotorsports.com/vac-motorsports-oil-pan-baffle-bmw-n54-p1435.aspx advancedautofab.com/p/aaf-oil-pan-baffle-n54/ Found these two, but I'm lost when it comes to recommend one over the other. I'm fairly sure you would want an expert opinion, preferably from a source that's closer to a track rather than a street tuner.
No worries man, if you have any questions just shoot them in a comment and we normally get back to you pretty quickly. Just as a heads up youtube notifies us of new comments, but not the reply to comments. Strangely.
Ah, following torque specs on valve covers, with old bolts... nothing but sweary memories. Protip, make sure you're not tired and reading the wrong numbers. Apparently bolts rated for 10nm don't like being wanged down to 80. Whodathunkit?
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
While you're in there... Consider 2 changes. Remove the little diamond shaped plate from the oil cooler housing and put a bead of your favourite gasket maker to seal it. Consider changing the coolant hose adapter that goes into the head under the oil filter housing; you can get an aluminum version from eBay for relatively cheap (I think I paid $25 cdn)
i would mention also the MickeyMouse fitting for Coolant Hose located in front . Definitely replace that plastic piece with aluminum one. Wont leave you stranded once the plastic will get brittle and splash all coolant around .
One of my fav N54 platform channel on RUclips, keep it up man 👍🏼👍🏼
Love seeing an almost new N54 come together, will be so much easier to get the turbos on as well. Exciting times ahead👍🏻
Yeah, kind of interested to see how long it all takes dropping the subframe down vs changing the turbos while the engine was still in the car. should be a good week none the less.
Gaskets, pain in the but, got all mine done, so no more leaks,
OFHG, VCG, Oil Pan, Crank Seals front and rear. Common leak points.
Great idea to do them now, since you have the engine out already. 👍
Did the belts and pulleys as well since mine had ingested the old ones but managed to save the engine 😣
The Crank seal plate which prevents the belts from being ingested by the engine, is a good idea though, especially since you have the engine out.
You’re a lucky man doing this all out of the car preventatively! I never used to torque bolts to spec either but I recently invested in a torque wrench and it takes all the guess work out...worth it 👌
After seeing Jakes snap on torque wrenches yesterday, i kinda want one, really bad. haha. I have taken the approach of trying to learn how tight things should be. But it's about time, i got and did things properly.
Oh and if it makes you feel any better, i have done all of these items on the e92, while the engine was in the car.... Was definitely a slightly longer process.
@@ZeroTo60Tube I know the pain you’ve had, I’m the same. You’re not a man until you’ve done all the gaskets on a N54 😅
@@ZeroTo60Tube Definitely get one ! (or maybe rather 2 or 3 depending on torque capacity/size and good quallity/proper calibrated as well) You will also need one to properly tighten those oil pan aluminium screws. I cannot recommend using the "go-by-feel" on these, as you did in this video! BMW has different torque specs for the different lengths of oil pan screws on the N54 (M8x26 = 8 Nm+60 deg. ; M8x36 = 8 Nm+90 deg. (cannot remember if this size was used) ; M8x92/112 = 8 Nm+120 deg.) - so obviously, if not following these, there is high chance they will not be tightened enough or you simply snap one or more, depending on your feel for aluminium screws.
Did my oil pan gasket a few months ago, with the engine in car, and it's not something I want to redo (or even just getting access to re-tighten them) anytime soon, due to inproperly torqued screws , LOL😅
Super cool engine out maintenance work. Seems so worth it to get things done and done right.
These bolts, x amt of NM the 1/4 turn more...this passes the point of plasticity, meaning stretch it more or again and fatigue sets in, or it breaks. This is some techincalndoodoo - term of art - and if you own an engine stand, if you know where the subframe is, if you're a monocoque -- get a torquer, get three, at least one that's digital, and stop your (oilpan) weeping!
Best way to get in touch with your N54 is to lay under it for 15 hours doing the oil pan gasket💜.
Koby Cleary my xi has a some seep, should be extra fun, I’ll do everything else that requires a subframe drop at the same time.
@@uisperfectemail9720 I’m very glad I just have rwd. It’s an excellent opportunity to do some preventative maintenance. Especially water pump and thermostat.
I would have checked the oil pump bolts. I actually has one that had snapped. There are instances where they work loose may want to check before u put it in
if you can, get the IS engine mounts, will save you the pain later and will be better for avoiding the issue with the accesory belt.
May as well use the fact that everything is off and change the Orings for the manifold, mine were toasted when I cleaned the valves and were leaking boost, also the palstic hose union with the thermostat, change that to a metalic one, the palstic one just cracks and selfdestructs with time, its like 20 bucks and gives you peace of mind that you will not have a hose jump out and drop coolant everywhere
awesome stuff, don't forget your Aluminium PCV valve!
Id make sure to also do the front and rear main seals while the engine is out. Instead of a regular oil cap maybe consider the VTT one way crankcase breather if you arent doing the front and rear seals. Its supposed to protect against blowing those out or cracking your valve cover.
When I had my oil pan gasket replaced, they didnt drop the subframe. They just lift the motor slightly from the top.
Idk how that’d work, especially on an awd model. Doesnt the oil pick up/oil pump get in the way of just sliding the gasket in? Anyway, i just did mine a couple months back. Huge pain in the butt
Use several zip ties to hold the sump gasket in place until you have most of the bolts started and then clip the zip ties off. Great tip that I saw on another channel.
Great idea
I have had both a leak from the sump gasket and have also had to replace my rocker cover as it had a hairline crack in it. Well worth renewing these while the engine is out as it will save so much effort in doing them when the motor is back in. Loving the videos and can't wait to see the car back up and running 👍👍
Do you have a newish water pump, another one the the N54 items to change 🤪
very good point. The one on the e92 at the moment is only about 12 months old. Hopefully it's still good for a little while.
Looks soo much easier with the engine out lol. Took me ages to try and get that valve cover back on with everything in the bay.
Everyone is afraid of these motors however they are pretty easy to work on
Great work. Getting closer. One thing you might want to get. But can be accessed later. Is a billet flange for the cylinder coolant hose outlet. I've just got mine off to do a silicon/billet upgrade kit. And the factory one was snapped off. Previous owner just siliconed it back in....dodgy. car only has claimed 90.000ks
That is definitely the most mentioned item in this comment section it would seem. I did replace the one on the e92 a few months ago. Hopefully get another few years out of that one.
@@ZeroTo60Tube apologies I didn't read all the comments. I was told once one hose starts to go they are all due. I was pleased I got the kit. Because the u shaped hose on the back of the water pump has also started to expand and lose wall strength. Here is the link to the kit I got. Took 3 weeks to get here as it was on back order. About $670 Aus landed. Not too bad when you start adding up factory hose cost.
vargasturbo.com/product/vtt-billet-silicone-n54-coolant-hose-kit/
Oddly satisfying noise from the shaking bolts when the rocker cover is being put on haha
Highly recommend getting a cheap tradetools torque wrench, in my experience it makes the rubber gaskets last a lot longer than the calibrated wrist does
Seen so many ofhg leak within 12 months when not torqued
That’s interesting to know.
Just replaced my oil cover gasket on my 2009 BMW 335i (up top). Car is still leaking engine oil. Could it be the oil pan gasket needing to be replaced also?
It's areal joy to work with a clean engine!
Use a little gasket sealer to hold the valve cover gasket in place during fitment.
You can get to the back oil filter housing bolt without taking off the manifold. 1/4 extension with a swivel joint. Must all be 1/4", 3/8" is too big. I did this twice on an E61 LCI and E87 N52 models without removing the manifold.
What did you use to clean the engine and components?
Also that clean engine looks so satisfying
This thing is about to run really good
Can I reuse the oil pan bolts on 2008 528i e60 n52k?
Not only can the PCV/valve cover crack but they can get clogged up in that inner chamber and cause excessive crank case pressure. Almost always best to get a new valve cover because you get new bolts and new gasket all in one.
Are you getting new engine mounts? Might as well refresh them when everything’s out 🤷🏻♂️
I recommend looking at the 335is mount for the turbo side 👍🏼
Oh and it’s worth replacing the water pump hose to engine connector with a billet unit- it’s usually plastic
The ones in the e92 are actually only a few months old.
Is 19.5T turbos are still in the agenda or just swap with old?
To go into more detail about the valve cover cracking thing - because of the way the PCV system is set up in these, a crack in the cover can cause a boost leak if it manages to propagate into the PCV chambers. Most of them just leak oil though. I epoxied my new rocker cover where the cracks appear (inside and out) to try and get more longevity out of it.
I've also done my sump gasket with new bolts, and if I were to do it again I think I'd just silicone it and replace the aluminium bolts with steel. It's just two flat faces down there, and I think the silicon would outlast the rubber gasket - it certainly seems to on all my Japanese cars. And aluminium torque-to-yield sump bolts just seems ridiculous.
Very good points. And kind of agree with you on the sump gasket/bolt situation. Wonder if anyone has tried silicon on a n54.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Can't see why it wouldn't work. Also, I'm disappointed you didn't address the mickey mouse fitting :P
Well that little coolant fitting, i one of the few issues i haven't been blessed with experiencing. I actually fitted a new one when i did the turbos a few months ago. I figured the factory plastics ones normally last 8-10 years, so its nothing too scary.
did you give the filters on the vanos solinoids a good clean with brake or throttle body cleaner the sives on them are really fine mine were slightly blocked cleaned them and the car runs great now are you going to put arp bolts on the ring gear and torque converter
I actually bought new ones, as they weren't too bad price wise when i did the fcp order. However i have cleaned the old ones and kept them for a rainy day. Nah, i wont be going with arp bolt on the ring gear or torque converter. Just standard ones on this setup.
I'm sure as the motor will be sitting for awhile, you'll tape up or cover up those orifices (intakes,exhaust, spark, oil cap), would not be fun having to open it back up.
When you fit the motor make sure you have a new coolant hose near the lower oil cooler bolt or an aftermarket alloy fitting mine fell apart when i did the OFHG and now i have to wait for it.
I do have a near new plastic one, well its been fitted for like 2 months. So hopefully shell be fine.
I go for an alloy one, as the plastic will fail. You can remove the old one by just crushing/crimping down on the hose where it's connected. The hose itself will last a long time.
Just a suggestion, many others like it available, www.ebay.com/itm/292498818274
@@ZeroTo60Tube it's about $13 posted. Maybe $15 for an alloy one off eBay or amazon ex china
Then it's good for lifetime
With the rocker cover, were you not tempted to put a tiny bit of sealant on the gasket, just to be dead certain of a leak free application?
I wasn't mainly because the last one i did dry and it was perfect. Also being able to see all around the head while its on the stand, makes it a risk free procedure. I can actually see its located perfectly which is nice.
keep up the great work ! love the bits on the E39 M5 especially . on the N54 I'm curious did you ever consider a block insert(closed deck setup ) to strengthen those cylinder bores?
I've been researching them. Not easy to source in Australia. But that will be for the next motor anyway.
Awesome progress mate, keep going!
Thanks, will do!
Did the oil pan gasket on mine awd....all suspension taken apart subframe down take the cv's out...take the front diff out...take the power steering off...alot of cussing and alot of beers later good as new.
Oh man, i hadnt really thought about how much more mess you have to deal with on the xdrive cars. Congrats on getting that all done.
@@ZeroTo60Tube oh god ya it's a pain. Not to mention had to change the cv as well on top of it all so had to deal with going to part store and them handing me the wrong cv twice...came close to snapping. haha
Just wondering how the aftermarket N54 Valve Cover has gone?
Did it hold up?
I have no issues with the china valve covers. This one is still fine. Another i used on another car for 2 motors. I think the plastic is fine, you just need to expect issues around the 5-10 year mark.
@@ZeroTo60Tube that’s good to know
Beats paying almost $1k for BMW part
I was considering getting Elring gasket and valve cover for $400 given they are OE for gasket but might save the money and get Chinese for $150
Did you still use OE for the Gasket?
Ps love your work
I just did the rocker cover on my 325i. No leaks, but the socket slipped on a couple of the bolts once they were tight and I think a couple may be stripped. This worries me a lot incase I cant get them off again if my shaft sensor thing goes. any ideas on how I would get them off?
Not really with out seeing exactly what’s happened. Sorry man.
Zero To 60 all good, the head of the bolts basically are a little mashed up. I think that really bitchy one in the back left corner could be damaged too 😳
How after all these months do you not have a torque wrench😣
Because being on the automotive industry for the last 20 years working around actual workshops and even running race teams. For the work I do myself, I shouldn’t need a torque wrench lol. I think the internet really slows down a lot of people’s progress on the tools. All the real mechanics I know only use them from for head bolts and bearings.
Loving your channel! Great insight
Awesome! Thank you!
I second the mickey mouse flange and seal plate, just another layer of protection.
No rear crankseal/ rear main seal?
Not this time. Both seemed fine and the motor is just temporary while i build the other one. It was all about spending as little as possible this time round to save up for what’s coming bext
Please instal the block off plate it’s big here in the us it keeps your belt from getting sucked in
You really shouldn't need a block off plate. The belt wont come off if everything is maintained properly.
You gotta remember this is an N54 it wants to hurt your feelings and bank account. Seen it happen a few times in the Facebook groups from alternators going bad and ps pump 🤷🏻♂️I got one on mine cause it’s 100 bucks and I know I don’t gotta worry about it plus you got the engine on a stand right now
true true.... now i have made that comment i am sure it will come back to bite me.
Hi, great progress! Do you already know what killed the other engine? Maybe too agressive timing? I'm running 25psi with 27psi peaks when boost builds up. Runs great, I just wonder for how long, since yours gave up at 27psi.
You running stock turbos or upgraded ones? I rebuilt mine and have stronger internals so im currently building an easy 20-21 psi. Might save your front and rear main seal by getting one of those VTT crank case one way breathers.
@@milehighboost5521 Running upgraded twins with 11blade compressor wheels. My rear seal already leaked before i did the upgrade, I will have to change it anyway someday. If you have stronger internals, 21psi should be nothing I guess.
Not yet, I’m betting it’s cracked ringland. But lm not sure how good of an engine the e92 one was. I express my concern for it in many videos.
I have a extra vtto coolant outlet new if you need it
Thanks very much for the offer. I will need one sooner or later. But no mad rush. The plastic one on this motor is only a couple of months old. So should have a few years in it yet. Hopefully is funds allow, i would love to build this e92 motor to a forged spec and fully blinged out over the next year or so.
Zero To 60 how can I send it to you?
To be honest I think unless you are in Australia postage will be super expensive. Where are you based?
Zero To 60 I’m in California
@@molitorshop2077 Yeah, international postage sucks at the mo. I really really appreciate it. But just try and sell it to someone local.
Would it make sense for you to mount an oil pan baffle? I know it's technically a bit late, but maybe you wanna track it eventually and rather get it done now when the engine is out. Cheers mate =)
I honestly wanted to, but couldn't track one down in time. I do want to circuit this car at some point so i will need one. Do you know of any reasonably priced kits?
@@ZeroTo60Tube store.vacmotorsports.com/vac-motorsports-oil-pan-baffle-bmw-n54-p1435.aspx
advancedautofab.com/p/aaf-oil-pan-baffle-n54/
Found these two, but I'm lost when it comes to recommend one over the other. I'm fairly sure you would want an expert opinion, preferably from a source that's closer to a track rather than a street tuner.
Is this the same VC seller you bought from last time? So I know its been tried and worked as I might need one soon.
Cheers
Yeah same one. Keep in mind I do run a upgraded pcv valve, but the cover itself if sweet.
Thanks for reply guys im glad I found you're channel
No worries man, if you have any questions just shoot them in a comment and we normally get back to you pretty quickly. Just as a heads up youtube notifies us of new comments, but not the reply to comments. Strangely.
Should be like a new engine now, nice and clean.
I hope so, i really hope so haha
Manual swap??? 😊
I don’t think so. Bit this car.
BMW. Why plastic parts on the engine?😡😡😡
Nice fuckn garage
Love ur n54 looks just like mine
Just subd!
I would save your money and not get that next visual mod or remap, and just buy a torque wrench
All those tool boxes filled with tools and you don’t own a single torque wrench? 😳🙀🙀😤😤😤
haha, i think it's a shame so many people rely on torque wrenches so heavily.
I've done every one of those maintenance items on my 100,000km N52 and wouldnt dare use Chinese parts.
A lot of people don't know the quality of what is available. Not everything from china is rubbish, hell a lot of OE stuff is made there these days.
@@ZeroTo60Tube True, but how do you know until it fails?
no you almost always lose the belt when you have a leaky oil filter - oil cooler seal I've seen like 4 or 5 times at my shop. n54 and n52
Ah, following torque specs on valve covers, with old bolts... nothing but sweary memories. Protip, make sure you're not tired and reading the wrong numbers. Apparently bolts rated for 10nm don't like being wanged down to 80. Whodathunkit?
haha, awww shit.
😬😁👍👍♥
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