Video is almost 10 years old and still helping people! Excellent step-by-step. The only issue I had were a couple of broken plastic clips holding the door trim. The plastic was so old and brittle and there wasn't much I could do to prevent that.
It took me about twenty minutes and after 2 years of listening to grinding and 5 minutes of this video problem solved by replacing the motor. Thank you.
On my wife’s 2011 CX 7 the driver side window motor gear was stripped. The gear is made of plastic, and will not hold up to the torque of the motor. Followed the aforementioned instructions, and worked like a champ. The door body snaps are very brittle. Had to replace four of them. (Advance Auto $3.50) The motor was from Rock Auto , $47.00 delivered. U tube University is great.
Hey Dude..hope you still monitor this account. I'm not mechanically minded, but your vid made it look so easy. Now, a lot has happened on RUclips since you posted this…but clarity and keeping it simple will always win the day. You did that for me and I thank you. Saved me time, money and got me some Dad points with the offspring. Cheers. N
Great video, increased my comfort level immensely. I would like to note that there is one additional step when taking off the passenger side door panel. As the passenger side has a vertical pull handle, there is one more screw behind that. The cover is sort of tough to get off but there is a phillips screw behind it. Also for the people with auto up/down switches not working that is a simple reset; with window all the way up put key to ACC, hold down (all the way engaging auto) until the window bottoms out, then hold up (all the way engaging auto) for 3 whole seconds.
This completes the awesomeness of replacing these things on both sides for me! Mine were 30 bucks each! I lost a window to a thief - who didn’t get anything - replaced my driver side window for 65 bucks and went ahead and did the motors too. The window replacement was quoted at 450, and I did the window and both motors with full auto restored for 140. 🎉
This happened to both of my front windows...instead of replacing the whole motor($200 last time I checked), if you open it up, there's a plastic white gear that had teeth broken off of it. I found a replacement gear for $7 on eBay. Saves a LOT of money!
Thanks for posting this video..you saved me $350 they were charging me to replace the motor in my 2007 mazda 3s. After a little effort, it works like a charm.
just wanted to say thanks so much man! just got done doing this and it wasn't to bad. however, for people doing this make sure when you remove the door handle assembly you make sure the cable controlling the lock is still in place. put the whole damn thing together just to find out the lock wouldn't engage. there is a slot that the cable slides into. think bike brake cable. after that it worked perfectly. thanks a million.
Thank you so much for this video, i'm going to attempt to do this on my 2011 Mazda CX-7 that is making this same sound. Would save me quite a bit of money if i can manage to do it myself. I appreciate you making this video, and explaining things clearly.
All of the disassembly instructions are correct, however, the sound you heard when you roll the window down is the sound of a broken gear that is connected to the motor. The motor is fine. If you look on the Wish app, you can find replacement gears for about $10. The you simply open the gear housing attached to the motor, replace the gear and that's it! The whole process done in less than an hour. I've done this myself.
Thank you for this video i just replaced my daughters window motor . I forgot how smooth it used to run . Now i gotta figure out how to reprogram the auto windows but thats minor . Thanks again
Excellent video. Thank you very much. I went 1 step further & purchased just the gear for $10 instead of the gearbox assembly for $58. Tips that I found helped, in addition to or instead of what you show: 1 - First remove the little black plastic panel above the door panel, at the leading edge of the window. It's easy. Pull straight out on the top to pop 1 snap, then lift up & out to unhook an L-shaped feature. This will make removal & reinstallation of the door panel easier, as it hooks over the door frame. 2 - After removing the door panel from the door, consider using small pliers to help squeeze the wiring harness connectors to remove them from the door panel controls. They're rather stubborn. I noticed pauses in your video when unplugging them--I guess you found them challenging too. :] 3 - After removing the door panel from the door, see which side has the white snap clips. They're supposed to be attached to the plastic door trim, not the metal door frame. Any clips stuck in the door frame need to be removed--try digging in small pliers or tweezers or screwdrivers to pry it out--this is a pain in the neck. After getting them out of the door frame, slide them into the pockets on the door trim panel & make sure they're in the correct position for later installation, so they poke right into the holes in the door frame. 4 - When cracking open the gearbox, you don't need to remove the motor. Use a thin knife of some sort. I prefer the tool that removes the backs of watches to change their batteries. It's a good compromise: not too thin, not too think, strong enough to bend & pry (and found cheap on-line!). Don't pry apart on the triangular wings--they're rather fragile--pry apart the seam at other sections of the body gearbox that are stronger--once you get started, it comes apart pretty easily. 5 - When reinstalling the gearbox, first bring the regulator (white spool with steel cable wrapped around it) & its frame toward you so that the screws can reach it, & line up 1 of the regulator frame holes w/ 1 clearance hole in the sheet metal. The trick then is to very gently & slowly bring the gearmotor assembly into place & mesh its spline with the regulator's spline so that you don't displace the regulator. If, like me, you find that you are unable to get the correct aligment, pop open the gearbox, rotate the output shaft spline a little, reassemble, & retry. If the clocking is correct, the gearbox slips easily onto the regulator. Bonus trick, stick a long, thin, & non-marring item down into the door behind the regulator (mind the window!) and forward on the back of the regulator to keep it from getting pushed into the door during this step. All these steps should help you not need to remove extra fasteners to bend back the door panel to get your arm down in there behind the regulator, if you find these steps easier instead. 6 - Put it all back together in reverse order, & put back the little black upper panel last, after the main door panel has been reinstalled. Thanks, -Jason
Great video! help a lot! I also found out that the problem with the motor is a gear that can be changed to save a lot of money. I just did this and works just fine.
Because of people like you and I, Mom & Pop businesses, especially Car Dealers cannot longer rip decent people off. This is what RUclips is best at. Great tutorial video. Thank you very much. I also help people the same way. Yesterday my father went to a local mechanic shop and they was asking $50.00 to inspect the door which could be deducted from the $250.00 to replace the motor or $280.00 for the motor + regulator + labor "Long-Live-RUclips". 100 thumbs-up for your presentation and two fingers-up for the mechanic shop.
regular screwdrivers. "Phillip" type for the screws and "flat" to separate the panel(door cover) from the door. 95% of the time the parts that break is a plastic gear side the motor box. I bough that plastic(white color) gear in ebay for around $6.00 with free shipping(from Turkey) It takes around 15 days to arrive. Listen, you don't need to buy the entire motor unit, that will cost you more. Again, you can fix the problem by replacing the broken gear at ~$6,00 from ebay. Good luck.
I have a 2010, but my window went down but when I pull the “up” switch the window comes up about 3 inches and sticks. Then it will go down automatically after a few seconds.
Great video pfun41! It will help me get my passenger door panel on my '07 CX-7 apart when I figure out if the problem is the motor or switch? Passenger side front window quit working luckily in the up position. At first when pressing the driver side switch for that window I would hear a clicking noise at the passenger side switch and I believe the LED's would illuminate also. Now when you press the drivers side (master control switch) you hear nothing and no LED's either. Passenger side switch nothing either. I'm not sure whether the problem is the passenger side switch or motor? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I hate to take it apart not knowing whether the switch or motor is bad. I know how to use a multimeter and am pretty good at electronics. Thanks for any help you could give me! Mark in Kentucky
Great video, thanks. My driver window makes the same grinding sound as yours except I cannot lower mine at all. It is in the full up position. When I try to lower, it will move like a hair and stop. When I close it, it closes then gives me the grinding sound. Would you think it is the motor?
Man, you saved me about 300-350 bucks today, no lie. My wife's car had the same symptoms and sound. One question and two observations: Question: I got the replacement part at NAPA, which works fine except for one thing. The auto function no longer works. Meaning, you have to hold the switch up or down the whole time to make the window go up or down. Any idea why that might be? Is that normal? It always worked before. **I noticed if you take of the small triangle-ish panel (by the mirror on the inside) over the main panel that makes it easier to remove. **Also, unscrewing the motor FIRST then removing the connector worked. I tried to remove the connector with pliers, and a screwdriver (that might be why the auto up or down doesn't work anymore). There is a tab that needs to be pushed in (with a small screwdriver) to let the connector loose which is really difficult to do otherwise. That tab is on the backside of the motor. Thanks for this!!! Very helpful! If you lived around here I'd buy you a beer and dinner or something. Peace.
Most auto up/down functions use the amperage draw of the motor to determine when the window is all the way up or down. There might be something different about the new motor making the auto window function not respond correctly. If you just tap the switch will the auto function work? If you hold the switch more than a certain period of time it cancels the auto function.
***** Actually, the window started working as it should a day later. Maybe it had to get broken in electronically (?). Anyhow, you saved me a ridiculous amount of money. The part was about 20 dollars more than the estimate I was given (and that's NOT at the dealership). A $125 dollar part, 30 minutes worth of work, too easy. Thanks, man!!
Thanks for this video. I got a CX7 and the power window button for the passenger side works fine, but it stop working from the command center, my driver side. Any ideas what could be the problem? I appreciate feedback on this, thanks.
My 2008 Mazda cx7 does the same thing as the one in the video. Can I simply replace the lift gear or do I have to replace the entire power window motor?
What should I do if the metal wire comes off the plastic rotator inside the door? The window will come up about 10 inches and then fall down. The plastic on the rotator seems a little damaged but the metal wire also has parts in it where each individual wire is splitting apart. Any help?
I'm attempting this today. What I am unsure of is after installing the replacement motor, you mention that it might not "line up correctly". That needs a bit more clarification. If it's not lined up correctly, does this mean, removing the motor and lining it up again, and then using the window control to move the spline in the motor? Is there a way to ensure that the motor is lined up before installing the new one? Based on the video, It would seem that one would need to remove the motor to align it. I guess I am just not sure how the motor can't be in alignment. If you roll the window all the way down, and then install the motor, and everything fits nice and tight, there shouldn't be any mis-alignment. Unless, the motor has a range of motion in the gear box. Meaning that the motor knows when it is in a fully up or down window position. But I'm assuming that the motor, when not connected to the regulator, will just spin in either direction continually. If that is the case, how can it be not in alignment if installed correctly? Does this make sense?
When you pull the old motor out the window may drop a little and the splines will no longer be in a position where the motor can just slide on and be lined up with the mounting holes. You may have to rotate it a little to get the holes to line up.
Thanks for the reply. Actually, got this done in about 25-40 minutes. Had no issues whatsoever in getting this done and saving over $500.00. Thanks again!
I have similar problem, with the passenger one, window doesnt want to roll up, or stays in the middle, but i can hear the motor working. Is it the actual motor or the regulator? Its Cx-9 2008
Just did mine and it works great now. But I still have one problem now, the door locks will not lock on the inside. They will only lock from the outside. What can I do?
My wife tells me that's the way it should be. If the engine is not running you cannot lock the doors. Only after the engine is turned on will it lock. so we're good. There's another video on this where he ran into the same thing and I don't know if he ever figured it out. I will try to find it and let him know. One more thing, I didn't realize this when I was taking the panel off, but mine has two more screws to take out before taking off the panel. They are hidden behind a cover on the door pull that I have on this model that you don't have on yours. I had a hellava time trying to figure that out but eventually got it. Thanks again.
My 2007 CX 7 passenger side window will try to go down then seems to get "jammed" and stuck without opening at all. Is this a motor problem as well, regulator, or both?
You can replace the stripped out gears if you don't want to replace the whole thing. I recently had another go out and just picked up a good used one from the junkyard.
Probably, from what I've heard these same lousy window motors are used on a number of Mazda vehicles, where they have the same issues. The CX-9 is just the next size up from a CX-7 so I wouldn't be too surprised if it's exactly the same.
Manuel Contreras well you could try to pull it off in place or just cut it apart and replace it. Only other option is to try to get some space to get your hand in there and pull the release rod for the latch.
Video is almost 10 years old and still helping people! Excellent step-by-step. The only issue I had were a couple of broken plastic clips holding the door trim. The plastic was so old and brittle and there wasn't much I could do to prevent that.
Thank you! I was quoted $550 at the dealership to do this job and I was able to buy the replacement part for $55 online and then install it myself!
It took me about twenty minutes and after 2 years of listening to grinding and 5 minutes of this video problem solved by replacing the motor. Thank you.
Getting at the gear behind the door skin is exactly what I needed to know. Thanks for sharing the video!
On my wife’s 2011 CX 7 the driver side window motor gear was stripped. The gear is made of plastic, and will not hold up to the torque of the motor. Followed the aforementioned instructions, and worked like a champ. The door body snaps are very brittle. Had to replace four of them. (Advance Auto $3.50) The motor was from Rock Auto , $47.00 delivered. U tube University is great.
Finally a guy that knows how to do a direct to the point vid. Bravo
Hey Dude..hope you still monitor this account. I'm not mechanically minded, but your vid made it look so easy. Now, a lot has happened on RUclips since you posted this…but clarity and keeping it simple will always win the day. You did that for me and I thank you. Saved me time, money and got me some Dad points with the offspring. Cheers. N
Thanks to your video I was able to replace on my own for only the cost of the motor. You sir, are a gentleman and a scholar.
Great video, increased my comfort level immensely.
I would like to note that there is one additional step when taking off the passenger side door panel. As the passenger side has a vertical pull handle, there is one more screw behind that. The cover is sort of tough to get off but there is a phillips screw behind it.
Also for the people with auto up/down switches not working that is a simple reset; with window all the way up put key to ACC, hold down (all the way engaging auto) until the window bottoms out, then hold up (all the way engaging auto) for 3 whole seconds.
Todd O thanks dor this part too so nice to have this right and working
This completes the awesomeness of replacing these things on both sides for me! Mine were 30 bucks each! I lost a window to a thief - who didn’t get anything - replaced my driver side window for 65 bucks and went ahead and did the motors too. The window replacement was quoted at 450, and I did the window and both motors with full auto restored for 140. 🎉
Thanks for the video and easy instructions. Ordered the window motor to replace in my 2011 Mazda CX-7.
I fixed my mom's window because of your video, Thank you
This happened to both of my front windows...instead of replacing the whole motor($200 last time I checked), if you open it up, there's a plastic white gear that had teeth broken off of it. I found a replacement gear for $7 on eBay. Saves a LOT of money!
Thanks for posting this video..you saved me $350 they were charging me to replace the motor in my 2007 mazda 3s. After a little effort, it works like a charm.
I just save my self $300 bucks thank u brodie 🗣️🗣️🗣️🗣️
Well done video, like not spending 20 minutes watching every bolt being removed.
just wanted to say thanks so much man! just got done doing this and it wasn't to bad. however, for people doing this make sure when you remove the door handle assembly you make sure the cable controlling the lock is still in place. put the whole damn thing together just to find out the lock wouldn't engage. there is a slot that the cable slides into. think bike brake cable. after that it worked perfectly. thanks a million.
Thank you so much for this video, i'm going to attempt to do this on my 2011 Mazda CX-7 that is making this same sound. Would save me quite a bit of money if i can manage to do it myself. I appreciate you making this video, and explaining things clearly.
All of the disassembly instructions are correct, however, the sound you heard when you roll the window down is the sound of a broken gear that is connected to the motor. The motor is fine. If you look on the Wish app, you can find replacement gears for about $10. The you simply open the gear housing attached to the motor, replace the gear and that's it! The whole process done in less than an hour. I've done this myself.
Back when this video was made aftermarket motors didn't even exist yet. You had to get them from the dealer.
Thank you for this video i just replaced my daughters window motor . I forgot how smooth it used to run . Now i gotta figure out how to reprogram the auto windows but thats minor . Thanks again
@@orlandocastro898 I watched a you tube video for that .been so long I can't remember off top of my head . Sorry.
Thank you. Great video. My cx7 had a door handle with a plastic cap and two more bolts underneath. All the rest the same.
Excellent video. Thank you very much.
I went 1 step further & purchased just the gear for $10 instead of the gearbox assembly for $58.
Tips that I found helped, in addition to or instead of what you show:
1 - First remove the little black plastic panel above the door panel, at the leading edge of the window. It's easy. Pull straight out on the top to pop 1 snap, then lift up & out to unhook an L-shaped feature. This will make removal & reinstallation of the door panel easier, as it hooks over the door frame.
2 - After removing the door panel from the door, consider using small pliers to help squeeze the wiring harness connectors to remove them from the door panel controls. They're rather stubborn. I noticed pauses in your video when unplugging them--I guess you found them challenging too. :]
3 - After removing the door panel from the door, see which side has the white snap clips. They're supposed to be attached to the plastic door trim, not the metal door frame. Any clips stuck in the door frame need to be removed--try digging in small pliers or tweezers or screwdrivers to pry it out--this is a pain in the neck. After getting them out of the door frame, slide them into the pockets on the door trim panel & make sure they're in the correct position for later installation, so they poke right into the holes in the door frame.
4 - When cracking open the gearbox, you don't need to remove the motor. Use a thin knife of some sort. I prefer the tool that removes the backs of watches to change their batteries. It's a good compromise: not too thin, not too think, strong enough to bend & pry (and found cheap on-line!). Don't pry apart on the triangular wings--they're rather fragile--pry apart the seam at other sections of the body gearbox that are stronger--once you get started, it comes apart pretty easily.
5 - When reinstalling the gearbox, first bring the regulator (white spool with steel cable wrapped around it) & its frame toward you so that the screws can reach it, & line up 1 of the regulator frame holes w/ 1 clearance hole in the sheet metal. The trick then is to very gently & slowly bring the gearmotor assembly into place & mesh its spline with the regulator's spline so that you don't displace the regulator. If, like me, you find that you are unable to get the correct aligment, pop open the gearbox, rotate the output shaft spline a little, reassemble, & retry. If the clocking is correct, the gearbox slips easily onto the regulator. Bonus trick, stick a long, thin, & non-marring item down into the door behind the regulator (mind the window!) and forward on the back of the regulator to keep it from getting pushed into the door during this step. All these steps should help you not need to remove extra fasteners to bend back the door panel to get your arm down in there behind the regulator, if you find these steps easier instead.
6 - Put it all back together in reverse order, & put back the little black upper panel last, after the main door panel has been reinstalled.
Thanks,
-Jason
You can get just the gear now!? When the first motor went out on this thing I had to buy a new motor from the dealer.
smile.amazon.com/dp/B00VYTDD3C
Great video! help a lot! I also found out that the problem with the motor is a gear that can be changed to save a lot of money. I just did this and works just fine.
Hola, has cambiado la rueda dentada de plastico y se arregla?
Very helpful video..Thanks
Thanks now I can install my door speakers 👍🏼
Excellent. Thanks a lot !
My wife's CX7 had same issue....thanks!
great video.....thanks for the help. You should put ads on your videos so I can click them.
Because of people like you and I, Mom & Pop businesses, especially Car Dealers cannot longer rip decent people off. This is what RUclips is best at. Great tutorial video. Thank you very much. I also help people the same way. Yesterday my father went to a local mechanic shop and they was asking $50.00 to inspect the door which could be deducted from the $250.00 to replace the motor or $280.00 for the motor + regulator + labor "Long-Live-RUclips". 100 thumbs-up for your presentation and two fingers-up for the mechanic shop.
What exact types of screwdrivers do I need?
regular screwdrivers. "Phillip" type for the screws and "flat" to separate the panel(door cover) from the door. 95% of the time the parts that break is a plastic gear side the motor box. I bough that plastic(white color) gear in ebay for around $6.00 with free shipping(from Turkey) It takes around 15 days to arrive. Listen, you don't need to buy the entire motor unit, that will cost you more. Again, you can fix the problem by replacing the broken gear at ~$6,00 from ebay. Good luck.
I guess you bought from bross 😁
Maybe, I don't remember. I have to take a look in my pic. album and in my online purchasing records
I have a 2010, but my window went down but when I pull the “up” switch the window comes up about 3 inches and sticks. Then it will go down automatically after a few seconds.
Will this work for a 2010 model?
How about a video on Mazda cx7 2010 front bumper installation.. thanks!
But the bumper doesn't need to come off.
Perfect! Thanks!!!
Great video pfun41! It will help me get my passenger door panel on my '07 CX-7 apart when I figure out if the problem is the motor or switch? Passenger side front window quit working luckily in the up position. At first when pressing the driver side switch for that window I would hear a clicking noise at the passenger side switch and I believe the LED's would illuminate also. Now when you press the drivers side (master control switch) you hear nothing and no LED's either. Passenger side switch nothing either. I'm not sure whether the problem is the passenger side switch or motor? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I hate to take it apart not knowing whether the switch or motor is bad. I know how to use a multimeter and am pretty good at electronics. Thanks for any help you could give me!
Mark in Kentucky
My gfs cx7 is doing the same thing. If I can't push it down by hand is it the motor?
me pasa lo mismo en mi mazda cx7
hay que comprarle los motorcitos nuevos o solo arreglarle el gear?
Great video, thanks. My driver window makes the same grinding sound as yours except I cannot lower mine at all. It is in the full up position. When I try to lower, it will move like a hair and stop. When I close it, it closes then gives me the grinding sound. Would you think it is the motor?
Motor or regulator, probably motor. Try pushing it down while holding the button. If it goes down then it's probably a stripped gear in the motor.
Man, you saved me about 300-350 bucks today, no lie. My wife's car had the same symptoms and sound. One question and two observations:
Question: I got the replacement part at NAPA, which works fine except for one thing. The auto function no longer works. Meaning, you have to hold the switch up or down the whole time to make the window go up or down. Any idea why that might be? Is that normal? It always worked before.
**I noticed if you take of the small triangle-ish panel (by the mirror on the inside) over the main panel that makes it easier to remove.
**Also, unscrewing the motor FIRST then removing the connector worked. I tried to remove the connector with pliers, and a screwdriver (that might be why the auto up or down doesn't work anymore). There is a tab that needs to be pushed in (with a small screwdriver) to let the connector loose which is really difficult to do otherwise. That tab is on the backside of the motor.
Thanks for this!!! Very helpful! If you lived around here I'd buy you a beer and dinner or something. Peace.
Most auto up/down functions use the amperage draw of the motor to determine when the window is all the way up or down. There might be something different about the new motor making the auto window function not respond correctly. If you just tap the switch will the auto function work? If you hold the switch more than a certain period of time it cancels the auto function.
***** Actually, the window started working as it should a day later. Maybe it had to get broken in electronically (?). Anyhow, you saved me a ridiculous amount of money. The part was about 20 dollars more than the estimate I was given (and that's NOT at the dealership). A $125 dollar part, 30 minutes worth of work, too easy. Thanks, man!!
How do you know if it's the window motor vs window regulator that has gone bad?
Due to the poor material selection of the worm and pinion gears. Common problem for this car.
Thanks for this video. I got a CX7 and the power window button for the passenger side works fine, but it stop working from the command center, my driver side. Any ideas what could be the problem? I appreciate feedback on this, thanks.
sorry, I just figured out the new comments. If nothing was replaced then there's probably an electrical problem with the driver side switch.
Okay, fine. Thanks
Great video, would this be the same for a 2012? My wife's has the same behavior, the dealer wanted to charge 2 hours labor =/
+Beard Fort Probably. I haven't heard if they changed the design or parts used.
What tools do I need? ( types of screwdrivers, etc)
Thank you!!!!!!!!
My 2008 Mazda cx7 does the same thing as the one in the video. Can I simply replace the lift gear or do I have to replace the entire power window motor?
Last I checked they are only available as a unit, you have to replace the whole thing.
What should I do if the metal wire comes off the plastic rotator inside the door? The window will come up about 10 inches and then fall down. The plastic on the rotator seems a little damaged but the metal wire also has parts in it where each individual wire is splitting apart. Any help?
That's what's called the regulator, you're best bet is to get a new one.
I'm attempting this today. What I am unsure of is after installing the replacement motor, you mention that it might not "line up correctly". That needs a bit more clarification. If it's not lined up correctly, does this mean, removing the motor and lining it up again, and then using the window control to move the spline in the motor? Is there a way to ensure that the motor is lined up before installing the new one?
Based on the video, It would seem that one would need to remove the motor to align it. I guess I am just not sure how the motor can't be in alignment. If you roll the window all the way down, and then install the motor, and everything fits nice and tight, there shouldn't be any mis-alignment. Unless, the motor has a range of motion in the gear box. Meaning that the motor knows when it is in a fully up or down window position. But I'm assuming that the motor, when not connected to the regulator, will just spin in either direction continually. If that is the case, how can it be not in alignment if installed correctly?
Does this make sense?
When you pull the old motor out the window may drop a little and the splines will no longer be in a position where the motor can just slide on and be lined up with the mounting holes. You may have to rotate it a little to get the holes to line up.
Thanks for the reply. Actually, got this done in about 25-40 minutes. Had no issues whatsoever in getting this done and saving over $500.00. Thanks again!
I have similar problem, with the passenger one, window doesnt want to roll up, or stays in the middle, but i can hear the motor working. Is it the actual motor or the regulator? Its Cx-9 2008
could be either, pull it apart and see if the motor spins when you hit the switch.
My passenger window does that,is their only one motor for all four windows or do each window have their own motor?
Each window has it's own motor :-)
Earnest Bunbury ok thank you I appreciate it
Just did mine and it works great now.
But I still have one problem now, the door locks will not lock on the inside.
They will only lock from the outside. What can I do?
Sounds like the lock switch connector didn't get plugged back in or a wire broke. Pop the interior handle assembly out and check the wires.
My wife tells me that's the way it should be. If the engine is not running you cannot lock the doors. Only after the engine is turned on will it lock. so we're good. There's another video on this where he ran into the same thing and I don't know if he ever figured it out. I will try to find it and let him know. One more thing, I didn't realize this when I was taking the panel off, but mine has two more screws to take out before taking off the panel. They are hidden behind a cover on the door pull that I have on this model that you don't have on yours. I had a hellava time trying to figure that out but eventually got it. Thanks again.
My 2007 CX 7 passenger side window will try to go down then seems to get "jammed" and stuck without opening at all. Is this a motor problem as well, regulator, or both?
+Mikay Deise sounds more like a regulator problem. Unbolt the motor and see if it will go down all the way.
Thanks for the advice... Replace the regulator yesterday... all good!
Can i just fix the stock window motor not replace it
You can replace the stripped out gears if you don't want to replace the whole thing. I recently had another go out and just picked up a good used one from the junkyard.
do you need to replace the window motor or just the $8 gear that goes inside the motor?
If you can get one just the gear, but they were only available as an assembly from a dealer when I first did this.
pfun41 fortunately for me, I just replaced with an $8 plastic gear and it worked fine. Thanks for the video
Do you think the process would be similar on a CX-9?
Probably, from what I've heard these same lousy window motors are used on a number of Mazda vehicles, where they have the same issues. The CX-9 is just the next size up from a CX-7 so I wouldn't be too surprised if it's exactly the same.
How do you take a door panel off a 2011 Mazda cx-7 if door don't open
+Manuel Contreras get the door to open first, since that would be nearly impossible.
Door don't unlock or open
Manuel Contreras
well you could try to pull it off in place or just cut it apart and replace it. Only other option is to try to get some space to get your hand in there and pull the release rod for the latch.