This is an easy and relatively inexpensive upgrade that can make a huge difference both on and off road. I would recommend this to anyone with factory auto lockers.
My keyway is jammed in under the collar of the main spindle nut. What's the best way to get it out. Torch, notch out the spindle nut? The magnet doesn't work. It may be broken in there. Great video.
I would try to start with some penetrating oil. Let it soak then give it a few taps with a punch or flat head screwdriver be gentle you are just trying to bump it free not damage it. Also, you can try moving the nut back and froth with a screw driver, socket, or channel locks and see if it is just bound up because of the nut. Next try the oil, a bit of heat and the screwdriver. Keep in mind you are just trying to shock it free. Then as a last ditch effort I would try notching the spindle nut. You want to be super careful not to mess up the spindle. I have never had to go as far a notching the nut before. I guess I have been super lucky. Best of luck hope it come free.
If you are needing just the nuts Warn sells them on their website www.warn.com/products-hubs-wheels. We got the whole hub kit for the ranger and they came with it. The kit I believe came from one of our warehouses.
www.warn.com/truck-suv-4wd-hubs-standard This page link shows the kits, nuts (if they sell them) and the service kits as well. Juts find your vehicle and it gives you a list and links to all the parts.
Question , do you still have a high and low. Means you must steal turn electric control on dash to 2 wheel . And on 4 high you get out and turn hubs in.
Why did you mark the hub with a paint pen? Is there a specific orientation that the hub is supposed to sit on? I’m asking because I just did this tonight and I have a shimmy that I didn’t have before… I had to index the hub a couple times to get it to sit flush with the spindle. Wondering if that’s what caused my shimmy? It seems to only go on one way?
It is something that I have always done. I do it with driveshafts as well. The reason is to minimize a chance of a vibration. I shouldn't matter as long as it is flush to the rotor. When is the vibration happening? Is it a certain speed or what I'm getting at is, when does it happen?
@@XtremeTruckAuto I figured it out, the hub wasn’t dis-engaged on one wheel, so every rotation it would give a quick tug of the steering wheel towards the side that was still engaged… thanks for the quick responce and great video. Thanks bud.
The locking hubs I installed on this 95 ranger didn't come with any springs from what I remember (installed them 2 years ago). I believe it was the locking hub and new hub nuts the only thing I would consider spring is the thrust washer that come on the truck. What vehicle are you installing the hubs on?
I’m trying to do what you did on video convert from automatic locking hub to MANUAL but having problems finding the write size inner hub and other parts that come with it
I would contact Warn directly or a local store that specializes in 4wd and aftermarket truck parts. They should be able to point you in the right direction when it come to finding the parts.
Is this the same for 1993 ford explorer automatic to manual locking hubs and do i need the c clip or the littel locking pin or is it just the 2 nuts and the locking spacer
I have not done an Explorer conversion yet. So, I can't give you to much in the way of what you do and don't need when it comes to that install. I would imagine its going to be very similar to the Ranger install.
Will the warm spindle nut kit for $111 work with off brand manual lockers? As the warn are no longer available on their web page?? I have a 1994 I’m rebuilding and want manuals.
I honestly do not know, but you could reach out to Warn or the company that make your lockers and they might have the answer or be to get you going in the right direction.
As long as the hubs are the same as the ones in the video then yes it should be the same (I believe there are 2 types of hubs). From what I know the Mazda is just a "rebadged" Ford Ranger and are mechanically the same. Also be sure to read my pinned comment because I forgot to film a step.
hello sir, do you know the exact torque of both of the nuts for the manual locking hub. i’m currently doing that right now to my truck and i do not want to make them to tight or to loose. thank you.
The first nut (the one with the stud on it) is torque to 35 ft⋅lbs. Spin the rotor a few times torque to 35 again, and repeat a few times. Once that is done you back off that nut 90 degrees or a quarter turn. Then put the washer with the holes lining the stud up with the nearest hole. Then you spin on the final nut and torque that to 85-135 ft-lbs. Keep in mind this was for the 95 ranger I did the locking hubs on. Here are the instructions for the locking hubs I did in the video and a few more. static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/wrn-32722a3.pdf Hopefully this helps. Feel free to comment again if you need more help.
Unfortunately, no. I'm sure there is someone out there who has done some sort of conversion but it would be quite the task. Honestly might be easier to solid axel swap it.
I have a 95 Mazda b3000. Everything should be the same. It already had manual hubs. When taking everything apart, it had 3 pieces to the spindle/thrust washer set, They so not sell that thrust washer anymore. I saw this video only had 2 pieces to it and you didn't even put them back on. So I guess I don't need them?
Yes I would recommend putting them back in with the c clip. I went back and installed them and forgot to film it.... I thought I had put a note in the description and failed to do so. So thanks for bringing that to my attention. It will also be a pinned comment on here.
Is it the same hub that is in the video or is it one of the others listed in the instructions? On the 95 Ranger in the video there was a grease mark on the rotor that I point out, also I marked it with a paint pen to make it easier. Lest say a new rotor got put on. As long a the locking hub slides on and sits flush to the face of the rotor it should be good to go.
From what I have herd the auto locking hubs don't always lock in or will lock in when you don't want or need. I personally have any experience. With auto locking hubs and off-roading but I would want the ability to control if they are locked or not. That way I know 100% I'm in 4wd.
why is the manual locking hubs better then the automatic locking hubs? i have thew factory and it works amazing on my 95 so I'm curios as to why people prefer the manual
Locking hubs are simple mechanically. They are on when you want them on and off when you don't want or need them. Also manual hubs truly disconnect the front wheel from the driveline. This in turn can improve gas mileage and reduce wear on the vehicle.
In the video I didn't show me re installing the thrust washers and toothed washer back in with the c-clip. You will need to do this.
I always knew that they were easy to convert but I had no idea it was THAT easy!!
This is an easy and relatively inexpensive upgrade that can make a huge difference both on and off road. I would recommend this to anyone with factory auto lockers.
Joe was interested and watched with me. It was very informative and helpful! Awesome job.
Thank you man
Great work
Thank you for this video I appreciate you 🤜🤜
My keyway is jammed in under the collar of the main spindle nut. What's the best way to get it out. Torch, notch out the spindle nut? The magnet doesn't work. It may be broken in there. Great video.
I would try to start with some penetrating oil. Let it soak then give it a few taps with a punch or flat head screwdriver be gentle you are just trying to bump it free not damage it. Also, you can try moving the nut back and froth with a screw driver, socket, or channel locks and see if it is just bound up because of the nut. Next try the oil, a bit of heat and the screwdriver. Keep in mind you are just trying to shock it free. Then as a last ditch effort I would try notching the spindle nut. You want to be super careful not to mess up the spindle. I have never had to go as far a notching the nut before. I guess I have been super lucky. Best of luck hope it come free.
also is there any spacers, c-clip or ridged washers for the manual locking hub or is it just the lock washer and the two nuts
Nice work
Nice video men. Where did you buy the nuts??

If you are needing just the nuts Warn sells them on their website www.warn.com/products-hubs-wheels. We got the whole hub kit for the ranger and they came with it. The kit I believe came from one of our warehouses.
www.warn.com/truck-suv-4wd-hubs-standard
This page link shows the kits, nuts (if they sell them) and the service kits as well. Juts find your vehicle and it gives you a list and links to all the parts.
Question , do you still have a high and low. Means you must steal turn electric control on dash to 2 wheel . And on 4 high you get out and turn hubs in.
Why did you mark the hub with a paint pen? Is there a specific orientation that the hub is supposed to sit on?
I’m asking because I just did this tonight and I have a shimmy that I didn’t have before… I had to index the hub a couple times to get it to sit flush with the spindle. Wondering if that’s what caused my shimmy? It seems to only go on one way?
It is something that I have always done. I do it with driveshafts as well. The reason is to minimize a chance of a vibration.
I shouldn't matter as long as it is flush to the rotor.
When is the vibration happening? Is it a certain speed or what I'm getting at is, when does it happen?
@@XtremeTruckAuto I figured it out, the hub wasn’t dis-engaged on one wheel, so every rotation it would give a quick tug of the steering wheel towards the side that was still engaged… thanks for the quick responce and great video. Thanks bud.
@@MrSagerific95 No problem. Glad you figured it out.
What about the springs that come with the automatic hubs? Do you take those out?
The locking hubs I installed on this 95 ranger didn't come with any springs from what I remember (installed them 2 years ago). I believe it was the locking hub and new hub nuts the only thing I would consider spring is the thrust washer that come on the truck. What vehicle are you installing the hubs on?
I’m trying to do what you did on video convert from automatic locking hub to MANUAL but having problems finding the write size inner hub and other parts that come with it
I would contact Warn directly or a local store that specializes in 4wd and aftermarket truck parts. They should be able to point you in the right direction when it come to finding the parts.
Where did you buy manual locking hub parts have been to many auto parts store and no one has it or it’s too big
Is this the same for 1993 ford explorer automatic to manual locking hubs and do i need the c clip or the littel locking pin or is it just the 2 nuts and the locking spacer
I have not done an Explorer conversion yet. So, I can't give you to much in the way of what you do and don't need when it comes to that install. I would imagine its going to be very similar to the Ranger install.
So is the wheel the only thing holding that outter housing on?
You are correct.
Will the warm spindle nut kit for $111 work with off brand manual lockers? As the warn are no longer available on their web page?? I have a 1994 I’m rebuilding and want manuals.
I honestly do not know, but you could reach out to Warn or the company that make your lockers and they might have the answer or be to get you going in the right direction.
woll this process work on a 1994 mazda b4000 4x4
As long as the hubs are the same as the ones in the video then yes it should be the same (I believe there are 2 types of hubs). From what I know the Mazda is just a "rebadged" Ford Ranger and are mechanically the same. Also be sure to read my pinned comment because I forgot to film a step.
hello sir, do you know the exact torque of both of the nuts for the manual locking hub. i’m currently doing that right now to my truck and i do not want to make them to tight or to loose. thank you.
also is there any spacers, c-clip or ridged washers for the manual locking hub or is it just the lock washer and the two nuts
The first nut (the one with the stud on it) is torque to 35 ft⋅lbs. Spin the rotor a few times torque to 35 again, and repeat a few times. Once that is done you back off that nut 90 degrees or a quarter turn. Then put the washer with the holes lining the stud up with the nearest hole. Then you spin on the final nut and torque that to 85-135 ft-lbs.
Keep in mind this was for the 95 ranger I did the locking hubs on.
Here are the instructions for the locking hubs I did in the video and a few more.
static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/wrn-32722a3.pdf
Hopefully this helps. Feel free to comment again if you need more help.
@@anthonyscoggins2024 It depends on the axel/ hubs. Check out the link in my other comment. That should give you all the info you need.
Hi, can this be done to a 2002 Sports Trac
Unfortunately, no. I'm sure there is someone out there who has done some sort of conversion but it would be quite the task. Honestly might be easier to solid axel swap it.
@@XtremeTruckAuto Ok thanks.
I have a 95 Mazda b3000. Everything should be the same. It already had manual hubs. When taking everything apart, it had 3 pieces to the spindle/thrust washer set, They so not sell that thrust washer anymore. I saw this video only had 2 pieces to it and you didn't even put them back on. So I guess I don't need them?
Yes I would recommend putting them back in with the c clip. I went back and installed them and forgot to film it.... I thought I had put a note in the description and failed to do so. So thanks for bringing that to my attention. It will also be a pinned comment on here.
how do you know how the hub goes onto the spindle?
Is it the same hub that is in the video or is it one of the others listed in the instructions? On the 95 Ranger in the video there was a grease mark on the rotor that I point out, also I marked it with a paint pen to make it easier. Lest say a new rotor got put on. As long a the locking hub slides on and sits flush to the face of the rotor it should be good to go.
Why would you want to go from an auto to manual locking hub? What are the benefits?
From what I have herd the auto locking hubs don't always lock in or will lock in when you don't want or need. I personally have any experience. With auto locking hubs and off-roading but I would want the ability to control if they are locked or not. That way I know 100% I'm in 4wd.
why is the manual locking hubs better then the automatic locking hubs? i have thew factory and it works amazing on my 95 so I'm curios as to why people prefer the manual
Locking hubs are simple mechanically. They are on when you want them on and off when you don't want or need them. Also manual hubs truly disconnect the front wheel from the driveline. This in turn can improve gas mileage and reduce wear on the vehicle.
I need a easy way to get the C clip off - You just show it off and on bench . Guess I well go out and play more.
Got it ~ 2 picks