Many of those 2004-2012 let,s say a 1.6tdci with bigger lcd display in the middle.To resolder the connector is smart to do.1 thing is to get the pinout on main prosessor on the intrument cluster.find datalines that goes to the connector direction or if you se small smd parts marked RN101 rn102 etc(resistor network,s).for imobilizer problem it is the RN 101 a smd component marked 1002 that is 4 10Kohm resistors side by side smd package with 4 legs on each side.That design make them brake of legs close at the body of component over time easy.I put a blob of tinn on each side of legs,it was easy removed and as suspected 1 leg was missing.I bout a new design with 4 half cirkel notches on each side with same dimension around 1.5mm with 2.6mm long.Have to use solder paste and a good hot air station sat at low airflow pressure around 370 degrees Celcius for 10-15 sec, move the hot air around the component,when i see true the camera microscope on my monitor the paste i put a pinpoint drop on each solder pad goes from gray to shiny silver and float in notches on component,clean and the panel worked fine since.
Can you recode it without bringing it in? And did you have to change out any wires in the can buses or under the dashboard? I get “key immobilizer malfunction”, “engine malfunction service now”, “transmission malfunction service now”, “traction control off”, “parking lights off”, “power steering reduced”, my car completely shuts off with rpms jumping up and down then to 0 but my engine is still on. What exactly do I need to recode or replace?
@@Krash_Auto yes. That was what exactly happened. The car goes into safe mode and the accelerator doesnt do anything. Has stuff like not being able to turn the car on happened? If yes, you should find a guy who can recode the Gauge cluster.
hi there i have had the same trouble with my 2010 ford focus,the cluster has been fixed but immobillizer still flashes,to go shopping i have to lock car with spare key that i have had cut,and leave engine running its the only way for the time being,i get a clicking noise from the engine compartment fuse box and a louder clickiing noise from the engine,i know its not the battery or the starter motor as i have renewed them,the fuses in the fusebox will be the culprit,the relay fuses the square ones,or the fuses under the passenger glovebox can get water ingress in the like you it takes a lot of turning the ignition key before it suddenly wakes up 16/6/2022 17.41thursday
hi there i have got my cluster back from jc cars in norwich but the immobilizer light is flashing and cant start the car this is what they told me is wrong with the car,this was an email from them below Hi, as I have explained to you before the cluster has been repaired, tested & is working fine - as you are aware you have a faulty engine ECU that is not communicating with your cars immobiliser system / cluster or diagnostic tools - you need to repair the car wiring / ECU for the system to work - please consult an auto-electrician to repair this fault
I did the same. Mine was the relays in fuse box, give them a good bashing in, could be water inside so maybe try dry it out aswell.. also get the reader on just to check what faults you have. Let me know if it works
![Ford Focus Mk2. No start, no crank, immobiliser error/ Ecu/ Pats 16. [English subtitles]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XpyQ9ORcids/mqdefault.jpg)
![Ford Focus Mk2. No start, no crank, immobiliser error/ Ecu/ Pats 16. [English subtitles]](/img/tr.png)
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Many of those 2004-2012 let,s say a 1.6tdci with bigger lcd display in the middle.To resolder the connector is smart to do.1 thing is to get the pinout on main prosessor on the intrument cluster.find datalines that goes to the connector direction or if you se small smd parts marked RN101 rn102 etc(resistor network,s).for imobilizer problem it is the RN 101 a smd component marked 1002 that is 4 10Kohm resistors side by side smd package with 4 legs on each side.That design make them brake of legs close at the body of component over time easy.I put a blob of tinn on each side of legs,it was easy removed and as suspected 1 leg was missing.I bout a new design with 4 half cirkel notches on each side with same dimension around 1.5mm with 2.6mm long.Have to use solder paste and a good hot air station sat at low airflow pressure around 370 degrees Celcius for 10-15 sec, move the hot air around the component,when i see true the camera microscope on my monitor the paste i put a pinpoint drop on each solder pad goes from gray to shiny silver and float in notches on component,clean and the panel worked fine since.
Tapping the top of the dashboard got my car to start, you’re a saint
My push start 10 plate has just done this, had the clocks/soldering checked, all good, I'm stumped and fear it is going to cost me a fortune :-/
Its a common problem. Not the ecu. Its the dashboard. Get it recoded. My dad did and i know it. :)
Hi life ,
My Ford Focus 2008 1.4 petrol having red light blinking even the car is at parking , it’s looks like a fault
Can you recode it without bringing it in? And did you have to change out any wires in the can buses or under the dashboard? I get “key immobilizer malfunction”, “engine malfunction service now”, “transmission malfunction service now”, “traction control off”, “parking lights off”, “power steering reduced”, my car completely shuts off with rpms jumping up and down then to 0 but my engine is still on. What exactly do I need to recode or replace?
I have a 2016 Ford Fiesta SE, 4 cylinder 1.6L
@@Krash_Auto yes. That was what exactly happened. The car goes into safe mode and the accelerator doesnt do anything. Has stuff like not being able to turn the car on happened? If yes, you should find a guy who can recode the Gauge cluster.
@@Krash_Auto you cant. You need special tools
I have this problem last couple months, but now I see getting worse and worse, anyone can fix it in Portsmouth?
I changed the fob battery on my 2012 ford focus and then started getting this message. Car starts but only after a lot of attempts
Nothing to do with the fob battery
@@diagnosticcheck9803 Got a new key and reprogrammed it.That fixed the problem. Cost around $100
hi there i have had the same trouble with my 2010 ford focus,the cluster has been fixed but immobillizer still flashes,to go shopping i have to lock car with spare key that i have had cut,and leave engine running its the only way for the time being,i get a clicking noise from the engine compartment fuse box and a louder clickiing noise from the engine,i know its not the battery or the starter motor as i have renewed them,the fuses in the fusebox will be the culprit,the relay fuses the square ones,or the fuses under the passenger glovebox can get water ingress in the
like you it takes a lot of turning the ignition key before it suddenly wakes up
16/6/2022 17.41thursday
hi there
i have got my cluster back from jc cars in norwich but the immobilizer light is flashing and cant start the car
this is what they told me is wrong with the car,this was an email from them below
Hi, as I have explained to you before the cluster has been repaired, tested & is working fine - as you are aware you have a faulty engine ECU that is not communicating with your cars immobiliser system / cluster or diagnostic tools - you need to repair the car wiring / ECU for the system to work - please consult an auto-electrician to repair this fault
I've seen this video and repaird my cluster but it's still showing the same things, any idea what it could be thanks 😊
This problem happened to be now I got my cluster repaired any idea what to do now
I did the same. Mine was the relays in fuse box, give them a good bashing in, could be water inside so maybe try dry it out aswell.. also get the reader on just to check what faults you have. Let me know if it works
Bad gauges, resoldering fix the problem
my 2013 ford fiesta had this problem it has died now
Ok how do ia fix it
Smack the top of the dashboard and it will start
Watch my video
Does not help at all