I appreciate the instruction, but did it bother anybody else that he didn’t clean any of the bike off around the fork legs before reinstalling all the stuff??
Ja, sehe ich auch so. Es wäre schön gewesen, wenn er A) gleich am Anfang gesagt hätte welches Werkzeug erforderlich ist und B) wenn er wirklich die Tauchrohre und alles drum herum gereinigt hätte. Sauberer Arbeitsplatz und dazu gehört auch das Bike, machen vieles einfacher. Er hätte sich ansonsten einfach Handschuhe anziehen sollen. Ansonsten gefällt mir das Video und die Erklärungen dazu schon sehr gut. Greetings from Berlin
I usually try to clean before disassembly and then also clean during the process to avoid contamination, and more importantly to allow for proper visual inspection. But this is on my own bike and I'm not "on the clock". I guess it is different if this is your means of income. As long as you know what you are doing I guess you can do it "dirty" with excellent results. I'm just not experienced enough, so I like to work clean (unless I'm working on finding a leak and even then I clean so I can find the leak).
Thanks much appreciate albeit I’ve never seen seals replaced in this way before. I’ve always fitted seals etc. into the fork tube first then slid them together. 👍
Those things wiith the Telelever suspension system on them give you more than one way to do this. A) You can do it this way, leaving untouched the fork´s bridge. B) You can take out the upper half fork tube (the easiest way) avoiding messing with anything else), C) You can dismantle the whole fork, or D) you can undue the Telelever nut and take out both forks toghether (that´s the way if you have an old Oilhead, as separating the forks from the bridge could be impossible without breaking something).
This way makes sense to me in that it allows the fork oil to be changed fairly easily. I would think it's important to periodically change the fork oil and also to have the correct amount of fork oil in there.
Good video. PS: it's 545ml of fork oil, not 500ml (per the manual) which is probably why they sell it in 1l bottles, to make you buy 2. So I would suggest not tipping all of it out to save on doing that. Also, my seals came with fitment grease, but I didn't see you use any?
Well done. I actually prefer to do it from the top, leaving the wheel and fork legs in place. Just losen the handle bars at the top, then the first stanchion, tilt the wheel and pull the stanchion up. Replace seal and then reassemble. Then do the other fork leg. Beware that it's tight as hell and you underarms will look like you fought a wild cat. Reagrding seal you can buy other aftermarket brands size 35x48x11 mm.
I wondered the same thing. Not a criticism, but it seems simpler to install all components in each leg before attaching to the sliders. But thank you for showing a different approach.
2006 r1200rt here and I assume the fork oil has never been changed. I have no leaks. I changed rear diff and it was dirty. I changed trans oil and it was dirty. I don't see a reason to change or even check the fork oil if there is no problem with leaking weeping seals, even though the bike is 19yo w over 60K. I've put almost 20K on the odometer. I suppose a leaky seal is the driving force to ALSO change fork oil? Thanks for the maintenance video BMW Guy.
Would the center stand (with say, some heavy weight on the rear seat) give sufficient clearance to remove the tubes, I wonder? It would suck to get the whole thing disassembled only to find you couldn't pull them off completely.
I appreciate the instruction, but did it bother anybody else that he didn’t clean any of the bike off around the fork legs before reinstalling all the stuff??
And you would have clean hands for rebuilding 😂
Happy new year from France
Ja, sehe ich auch so. Es wäre schön gewesen, wenn er A) gleich am Anfang gesagt hätte welches Werkzeug erforderlich ist und B) wenn er wirklich die Tauchrohre und alles drum herum gereinigt hätte. Sauberer Arbeitsplatz und dazu gehört auch das Bike, machen vieles einfacher. Er hätte sich ansonsten einfach Handschuhe anziehen sollen. Ansonsten gefällt mir das Video und die Erklärungen dazu schon sehr gut. Greetings from Berlin
YES!
I usually try to clean before disassembly and then also clean during the process to avoid contamination, and more importantly to allow for proper visual inspection. But this is on my own bike and I'm not "on the clock". I guess it is different if this is your means of income. As long as you know what you are doing I guess you can do it "dirty" with excellent results. I'm just not experienced enough, so I like to work clean (unless I'm working on finding a leak and even then I clean so I can find the leak).
Thanks much appreciate albeit I’ve never seen seals replaced in this way before. I’ve always fitted seals etc. into the fork tube first then slid them together. 👍
Why not put the seals in while the tubes are off the bike? I do that on a 1200 Hexhead.
Those things wiith the Telelever suspension system on them give you more than one way to do this. A) You can do it this way, leaving untouched the fork´s bridge. B) You can take out the upper half fork tube (the easiest way) avoiding messing with anything else), C) You can dismantle the whole fork, or D) you can undue the Telelever nut and take out both forks toghether (that´s the way if you have an old Oilhead, as separating the forks from the bridge could be impossible without breaking something).
Huh. That fork trick saves me an awkward special tool in my tool roll. Thank you very much for that.
Check the bushings while you are there,mines were done,handling is better now.👍
This way makes sense to me in that it allows the fork oil to be changed fairly easily. I would think it's important to periodically change the fork oil and also to have the correct amount of fork oil in there.
Good video.
PS: it's 545ml of fork oil, not 500ml (per the manual) which is probably why they sell it in 1l bottles, to make you buy 2. So I would suggest not tipping all of it out to save on doing that.
Also, my seals came with fitment grease, but I didn't see you use any?
You really need to wear some gloves and clean your parts before reassembly. You should also lube the seal surface prior to sliding them on the tubes.
Well done. I actually prefer to do it from the top, leaving the wheel and fork legs in place. Just losen the handle bars at the top, then the first stanchion, tilt the wheel and pull the stanchion up. Replace seal and then reassemble. Then do the other fork leg. Beware that it's tight as hell and you underarms will look like you fought a wild cat. Reagrding seal you can buy other aftermarket brands size 35x48x11 mm.
I wondered the same thing. Not a criticism, but it seems simpler to install all components in each leg before attaching to the sliders. But thank you for showing a different approach.
Should support the calipers vice let them dangle
2006 r1200rt here and I assume the fork oil has never been changed. I have no leaks. I changed rear diff and it was dirty. I changed trans oil and it was dirty. I don't see a reason to change or even check the fork oil if there is no problem with leaking weeping seals, even though the bike is 19yo w over 60K. I've put almost 20K on the odometer. I suppose a leaky seal is the driving force to ALSO change fork oil? Thanks for the maintenance video BMW Guy.
Would the center stand (with say, some heavy weight on the rear seat) give sufficient clearance to remove the tubes, I wonder? It would suck to get the whole thing disassembled only to find you couldn't pull them off completely.
Great vid thanks
Thanks for the vid. What scissor jack is that? Any good? I need to get one.
Thanks
😍
Why not clean the forks before comencing the repair
Messy!