How to replace a damaged cable harness in an ebike hub motor
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- Опубликовано: 9 сен 2024
- In this video Pete shows us one of his favorite technique for replacing cable harnesses which go THROUGH the axle of an ebike hub motor. Without this trick it can be a real bitch of a job with lots of cussing involved, as the replacement cable often follows a path with several blind bends before it is exposed again inside the hub.
The most common reason for needing a cable replacement is that the hub motor has experience an axle spinout event or improper installation which has damaged the wires right where the exit the axle slot, and that doesn't leave enough room for a standard repair with solder splicing and heat shrink. It's also necessary when motors have melted wires due to excessive phase current from being run too hard.
If you are doing a cable replacement on a motor that has had an axle spinout where the phase wires severed and shorted against the hall wires, it would be smart to check the functionality of all the hall sensors while you have the motor apart and replace any halls that don't toggle. The exposure to battery voltage on the hall signals can fry them too.
Good luck with your repair!
www.ebikes.ca/...
Love Pete's vocabulary. Richly descriptive, and ,hey, no swearing .
My friend is at a mental hospital now. Because he tried the same.
My friend got back from the hospital and asked why he ended up there. So I showed him the reason, this video. Now he has to go back again. Bummer!
Hah
I cannot put into words how good this video is. I am an amateur who has been wrestling with a MAC 1000w geared motor these past few months. I've literally learned every single lesson in this video the HARD way. Small geared motors are an absolute nightmare. Not only are there 90 degree angles, no room, the problem of getting the gears to mesh etc etc....but you got sharp edges everywhere too.
I had to use a chisel to clean off the nylon gear edges to reassemble after 10K Km,
silicon spray is an option on the cable and tunnel to help it slide through. I would say that having 8cm of sheath free cable is okay as the end where you grip with the pliers to pull through will then mean you just cut off that 8 cm and work from there. I haven't tried it as yet but certainly a suggestion at the moment.
I learned so much here, basically not to be afraid of all this stuff, all you need is the right tools and a healthy set of balls… and desperation that your motor will not work otherwise…
True, True, and True.
and a can of silicone lubricating spray
I use a dremel to smooth any sharp edges at the entry opening, for the cable I slide the insulation down like you do but I make sure I don't trim the nylon cord the same length as the wires so I can incorporated that into my pulling tether with the slitted insulation wrap. Also I use a wee bit of silicone spray to lubricate the cable.
Interesting, never done this but was thinking the same thing, silicone oil on the cable and leave the nylon cord for strength. A bit of lubrication goes a long way. That's what she said.
My thoughts exactly while watching this…
Very good info in this vid. I always wondered if it was possible to replace a damaged cable in the Hub motor.
So many people asking where to buy the replacement cable and not a single answer. It looks like grin used to sell this cable by the meter but that product has bee discontinued. It's strange that it's so hard to find when there's such a need for replacement cable. Waah. I need some.
The problem is that the cable we sold by the meter was larger in diameter than most of the axle bores on these Chinese motors, we had it made for our controller production not for rework of hubs. The easiest solution is just to buy a 1 meter extension cable of the same style connector as is used by the controller, like this:
ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/wiring/motor-wiring/z910-ext.html
Otherwise we would also often scavange the cable from motors that had other kinds of damage on them. For the motors that we make here, we sell replacement cable directly, ex:
ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/wiring/motor-cables/l1019-hg6-motor-cable.html
(Ideally all motor manufacturers would be so considerate ;-) )
great video, for what most would consider a daunting task.
Hi mate,can you give me help please,i did change my cable but a white wire was inside the motor unwelded , do you think that wire should be weld, .. in the screen show me a error 3
If the hole where the wiring goes trough is a bit too small for new wiring use a Dremel tool, with a grinding stone on it, and open up the hole's diameter larger, so the wire slides through much easier, with less resistance. Could also use WD-40 on the wirings outer coat, and inside the hole, to allow easier, and smotther passage of the new wire.
I frequently encouter the same issue pulling the cable through a too small orifice while pulling electrical cable to install swimming pool lights. I use the same method of decreasing the diameter of the outer sheathing. but leave a longer tail of the inner insulation cord and attach very strong nylon cord to it, then using electrical tape to secure it to the cable. To do this so that the cable will still fit through the races and bends, I make sure to wrap the excess cable as tight as possible to make its diameter as small as possible. The nylon cord used as a fish tape can then be doubled or tripled to add tensile strength. I also use electrician"s luble to ease it through the tight races. I'll be performing this very task this weekend on my boyfriend's bike that I crashed when some clown turned right in front of me. Those front brakes sure worked better than the rear brakes because I went ass over tea kettle over the handle bars, consussion and serious bruising. Asshole didn't even stop to see if I was okay or check to make sure I didn't sue his insurance company into the Stone Age.....I'll let you know how swimming pool technology transfers over to ebike repair. Thanks for the incredibly helpful and informative video.
Where did you order the replacement cable harness? Thanks..
Damnit.. this was my exact question... I'm trying to talk to the manufacturer or at least a distributor in China about getting the entire front hub motor and fat tire assembly replaced but I doubt that is gonna happen.. getting ahold of these people is impossible it's almost like it's done on purpose so they don't ever have to honor any warranties
grin technology wow guys seriously
Aliexpress
just shorten the old cable or attach ANY cable.
It’s a standard pre-wired L10 plug and connector, so available online. Not cheap but at least it’s a standard item
Excellent video . I have done external splices on rear hub motors with 'cassette issues' but am baffled trying to open up a PEDEGO hub motor to get to the inner connections. There is NO POSSIBLE WAY to open up the motor case! At least not that I can see😡😢😨
I can see zero bolts, screws, nuts, fasteners, or ability to open up the case. I gave up and bought a new motor, rim, throttle, pas, grips, controller kit....this solved the problem much easier than splicing on a new cable that SHEARED OFF because the rim nuts were not properly tightened by a professional after a FLAT TIRE REPAIR!
Thanks for showing that this CAN BE DONE by a proper professional. Doing it on a pedego motor seems to be NEAR IMPOSSIBLE.
THANKS AGAIN for your video presentation. You deserve an award of the highest magnitude. Searching the interwebs for this content reveals very low results. Thanks for showing us how to to it on a most difficult hub motor, that at least let's you open up the CASE. 👍👌✌💓
Thanks for the feedback and encouragement, we hope to keep making and sharing more content on servicing/repairing ebike parts. Most likely the hub motor on your Pedago is one that has a threaded side cover plate, so you need to make a special tool that allows you to grip a set of 3 or 4 notches that you'll see on one side of the hub and unscrew the plate. If they've used a glue on the threads then you'll also need a heat gun to warm the shell and soften the bonding agent.
..havnt got any real bikey tools...no vice..no experience..no muscles ...BUT.. Confidence! You gave ..with very clear, carefully filmed close ups of all that's wrong and all that might be done to make it come right! Thank you! My ebike is rock-bottom of the range..4-5 years old..(a Wayscral 315).. .its motor looks bigger and less likely to be so squashed inside. The cable, same thickness as yours, so!!! Could be eazy peazy!!
@@jeanetteleuers7329 the wires CAN be repaired, dont listen to the beginning of the video, i am a certified electrician. Simply splice as much wire as you can, apply Rosin Flux compound, apply some solder, slide over a shrink wrap, slide over a soldering butt connecter, heat up, connect, slide the shrink wrap over, heat up, connect. jobs done. Opening the motor is stupidity when there was clearly a half inch of exposed wire. I could fix that wire with 1/8 inch LOL.
@@willjay9808 thank you!!! I realised, though, that right now I can't be SURE of the problem. I looked at all the outer wiring I could see, and noticed one part of the cable to the main connection/battery was pinched and_screwed down when it obviously should not have been. If there is any kind of crack or break in the cable at that point...it could be the cause of the motor failure. It had stopped suddenly before and then fixed again...when I dismantled the battery and then banged it back with a bit of force...it was as if a jolt to the battery in its fixing, could make the wire disconnect/reconnect.
I'm going to examine that wire first. Cut off the sheathing where..it feels a bit peculiar to touch, through the cover..as if a sharp bend is there somewhere...a disconnect point...everybody HOPE for me! 😁
I’m impressed with your patience & verbal skills.
Nicely done. Appreciated
vaseline is a good way of getting big things into small holes.
Hahhaha. Spit.
You should pet the motor head gently and whisper "everything will be fine, don't worry, relax" to make it go easly
hey, great video. BTW you can also solder all wires together and attach a 14 ga wire, then pull through. Great job.
Fantastic video. So where can you buy the cable? Would any motor hub cable wire would work? Thanks for the great video. Please help.
This video is great. What would make it awesome is a source for the cable. Because otherwise, I get my hopes up, figure I can repair it, and then learn I can't get the cable. So the video just mocks me.
A lot of motors have sufficient extra cable length outside the axle that you can just repurpose what you have and shuttle it further down. You can also DIY a 3 phase motor cable using thin walled FEP shrink tubing and putting that over the flexible stranded noodle wire after removing the thick silicone insulation.
Just pull inside the old cable until you get damaged area inside the motor. Than you can fix it inside the motor. Only downside is you end up with a shorter cable :))
lol great idea
cable lube is your best friend here!
Great idea and top tip, I've never tried sourcing a replacement cable its mainly higo/julet 9 pin in the UK but in the event of another motor fail I would now consider it as an option - shame on the video ending, I would of liked to see some top tips for the internal soldering and perhaps a future video idea for replacing hall sensors and speed sensors, my attempt at a video was with my first motor and with very little skill however it worked for a while. You guys have the knowledge base and the directing skills to produce a high quality video.
A job l have to do of which I'm not looking forward too. Good vid
Well done , thank you for your insight to the task at hand
Jim Carey look alike! Very well explained
I've used two stroke petrol, squirt a bit in the axle and over the cable, it slides in, you only have one go at it so mark where it needs to stop at, then blow the petrol dry and all done.
I be never ever seen anything like it I snapped my hub cable right at the wheel this guy made it look so hard Ive never ever done any electrical or cable soldering but it was so easy don't watch this.unbelievable
My hub wire is torn / chewed at the end also..how did you do it? Video looks like I need to be a pro or an idiot to work that hard.
The difficulty really depends on how exactly the cable run fishes through the axle. We did the video on the GMAC motors which are among the most challenging jut to show how it can be done in the worst case scenario. If the cable is just going through a straight bore to the other side without any sharp bends then of course it is much easier.
Excellent explanation this guy is great
I use dialectical grease as a lubricant. Great training... ThanxAlot!
Thanks for this great video. Can you let me know where I might buy the cable and 9 pin connector from?
Striping the outer jacket to allow enough wire to enter the motor then using thin-walled teflon tubing and slide the wire though the protective teflon ? Lubrication? Protection of coil windings when working on motor, cutting off damaged cable and pulling out wires individually...
Great work ! What a fine company !!!
That’s cool and all, but how do you find the right power cable replacements for your particular bike?
shorten the old one or use any wire
Note to you. Use a little electric contact grease on the side the wire that is going through.
I would file the metal around the hole smoother , mine had a really sharp tiny burr that soon severed the cable even after being very careful by my third tyre swap . Also i now dob the hole with a glue gun after fixing to minimize any movement near the hole after refitting . Still I'm on 4000 miles now which means its paid for itself easily on fossil fuel vehicle costs. I have had all sorts weird symptoms with wire chaffing also and now am very careful on cable routing and extra wire protection over the bicycle in vulnerable places . .
J did that with break wire. Works fine 😊
Tip if you need to clamp the threaded end use blocks of timber so the thread won't be damaged. Great video I be doing within the next couple of weeks..
Thank you so much! Great Video!
May I suggest a little die electric grease to help the cable slide? Not the mention it will provide some moisture prevention as well. I love your tips on how to pull the cable through.
a small squirt of dry lube on the outer casing when pulling through works just fine, plus some applied on the inside
Lastly, why not thread on the nuts on the axel then vise it up? so much easier.
Great video!
Thank you. Thats nuts.
How about a little cable lube? Yellow 77 perhaps etc etc
Always use spray or wire pulling compound.
Is wire pulling compound better than any off the shelf lubricant you can get?
Silicone spray helps the jacket slide through easer.
This is exactly what they make wire pulling lubricant for.
Grease?
Would it be possible to add a cable connector to a hub motor that didn’t have one?
what about cutting the outher sheath at a tapering angle?
You should put some lightbnon conductive grease on the part going trought the hole to facilitate the job.
Can you use a slightly larger reamer to open the hole to make it easier to pull cable through the hole???
I am going to attempt this job next week.... But I have pulled Big wires through conduit and I use a Lube on the big stuff.... so I will lube the cable before I pull it through, after I do my Tape job...... and I will not cut all the wires at the same point.... I will cut each inner wire at a different length, so I will have a longer taper .... Thanks for the video and info here.... I wonder if KY jelly will work?
Any reason you didnt put a drop of machine oil or a small burst of wd40 down the bore hole? Maybe help the jacket slide through more easily?
I would get some electrical lube and cover the cable with it. The lube is a special type for electrical use. I’ve even used dish soap in a pinch.
This is great. I just feel sorry for this dude who sounds exactly like Jordan Pederson
Use heat gun to stretch casing out to thin its diameter, or, my preferred method for such situations is to remove outer casing and replace with heat shrink tubing to reduce it diameter. Professional, just as protective as original casing, and with a little soldering flux as lube, the extra hour of work is reduced down to 5 min while still withholding equal amount of integrity, both morally and structurally. “Work smart, not hard, use your brain and save your back”! Your welcome 👊🏻
Also, using heat ( not so much to burn coils, ) to soften the wire casing apon removal is also way easier than tug of war. If not possible, cut casing flush with motor and pull wires out individually. Your welcome again!
- Just a man on a mission for speed.
would it be useful to coat the cable with a bit of petroleum jelly so it pulls through easier?
Thanks really helpful , just wondered if you could've used a small amount of lube or vasoline.
Yup!
Where did you get your ebike cable from?
GrinTech supplies some types. My trouble always with wiring is finding the right gauge wire.
Anyone tried cutting the connector off the old wire and tapering the new wire to the external end of the old cable and either pulling the whole thing new and old through in conjunction with each other so as old one is pulled out from inside it would pull the new wires in from the outside.
Even better probably Where possible, this could also be done while leaving the outer most sheath in place and connecting only the inner wires new and old to each other and then pulling the old out to also pull the new in of both the sheeth and the motor. So long as the wires being pulled in and out are continuous and connected in a way in which thickness constant and without large/abrupt variations , I’d think this would be a far easier option than fighting the twists and turns of the hard internal angels twice for the whole wad of both the new and old cable once to remove old and again to force new in….
Ntm leaving the sheath and using the old wires within to pull through new inner wires into the hub, could be done as each individual wire/smaller groupings of them (and thus more leeway with clearance for the hard part (ie passing through the case)) less thickness to be fighting with for clearance.
Is there reason for keeping the outter most sheathing in line with the wires being swapped in harness? Why not remove the outter most sheathing entirely while moving the wires in and out of their places and through the narrow bore. Then when in place add it back to side of the harness that runs externally/outside of the motor to the circuit?
Or alternatively leaving the old sheathing in place and using the old wires you’re being replaced to pull the new wires into the existing sheathing in a single motion/effort as opposed to fighting with both in both their respective directions in and out?
I can’t imagine this is the easiest way to achieve the same results, and if so the motor company is on some bs frfr
I use some baby oil to lubricate the outer of the cable since it will evoprate away to nothing pretty quickly.
Yeah, that's something that should have been mentioned in the video, a bit of lubricant on the wire sheath can help it slide through channel with less friction and force required.
Glad that Mike H pointed this out.. If you don't want to buy baby oil, something that's good for lubing plastic or rubber fittings is a $1.25 spray can of furniture polish from the dollar store. you can use it for other things such as handlebar grips.
Good point by Mike H. Another useful lubricant for plastic or rubber fittings is spray furniture wax, a spray can of the stuff costs $1.25 at lots of dollar stores. Helps with handlebar grips too plus what-have-you.
@@GrinTechnologies if Pete was 2x older, he wouldn't choose force over a good lube.
I use silicon oil to cool my geared hub motors, so probably wouldn't hurt to use it to lube a cable sheath either.
Electrician wire lube works along with another light gauge wire with tape.
Have you ever tried a little bit of dishwashing liquid on the cable?
need a new axle for my das-kit 500w shaft spun :( going nuts trying to find replacement and some torq arms
External splice for me, Id repair, shrink wrap individual then one big shrink wrap over the lot ..butted to the motor.
HET thats is a reverse circumcision technique used in oil industry to feed cables bravo
Would it be easier if while you were wrapping the tape you wrapped it around like a brake cable or a gear shifting cable? There skinny and strong but flexible. that way if the tape breaks you still have the cable underneath and it's stronger to push through to the other end and then you can just snip it when finished?
Trying to replace a juiced hyperscrambler 1100w mac motor cable. No support from JUICED :( thank you for a general idea of what I've got to do
Some KY may have helped, I have a similar problem - works for me ;-)
Why didnt you just put some oul or greese on the cable? Would that cause a problem?
Talcum powder!!
Apply it to the bore, the tape and the jacket (outer insulation).
This is great but my motor is big. That means I need a heavier replacement cable to take the 50 amps+ my motor draws. Does anyone know where I could get one? The motor is a 3 Kw QS 12"
Great video I got 3000w motor witch doesn't have temperature sensor what steps has to be taken to install temperature sensor pls advice
Isit possible to just fishing the temperature sensor wire in or all the hub wires have to comes out then push the new wires in including temperature sensor wire
So the trick is to pull out the cable on a roller chair to prevent you from hitting your head on the floor when the chair collapses.
Precisely, only we forgot to specify "roller chair" as one of the tools.
what about any water based lubes? my damn rear brake rotor bolts came loose several times now and cut my cable, while riding tonight my motor kept applying the electric motor brake, which i never even setup, and it attempted to go into reverse while i was finishing this short but troublesome and very short ride, as i was riding it into my front yard and it ripped the wheel right out from the slots holding it in place. good times
Hi
Great video and great video quality camera.
What camera model you used for this video? I can suggest you use a smooth ointment like grease or oil or even soap for spreading on the cable
I had an idea, why not strip all the wires twist the ends solder them all to a scrap piece of tough wire, feed that single wire through the bore then pull the entire cable through?
If I didn’t have damaged wires but just wanted to turn the motor cable into a quick connect plug(for convenience), do you have any videos on that?
Underrated comment!
I'm just wondering, how did the group insulation break, if it cut going thru the turns, one of the wires may have rubbed against a burr and short
My six penn'orth, I would use silicone grease on the outer covering of the cable; once I have the tape on then, plonk a bit inside the bore hole. I would also solder a wire to the old cable before I pull it out and then use the wire to start the pull through.
I guess its all very intuitive
Where can I find a hub cable for a Swagtron EB7 ?
Also wouldnt a better way be to removel the spindle completely then re installing it with the wire already placed in the bore holes?
The construction of these hub motors, is very similar, to wind turbine generators, just add the magnetic polarity. Has anybody done experiments, or reverse the polarity on these, similar to people's alternator experiments, in order to generate electricity? I love my 3000 watt motor. Debating whether I should replace the one black wire, for the hall sensor, (If possible) or locate the make of this used electric bike I bought, In order to get the proper cable, going to the hub motor.
Thoughts, suggestions?
Thank you so much community.
Great video as well! Thank you.
There is nothing required at all to run these or any other hub motors as a generator. Just spin the hub and it will create a voltage on the phase leads, and you can either rectify that with a 3 phase diode bridge to run off the back-emf voltage directly with no regulation, or you a motor controller in regen mode to have fully programmable output voltage. Tons of people have done this in all kinds of neat power generation applications.
I’ve made cable repair but display continues to display 30h communication error. Could it be my controller is fried from when the cable was damaged?
Communication errors are between the controller and the display, and don't have anything really to do with the connection between the controller to the motor which is covered in this repair video. So yes it is quite possible that your controller is damaged too, or you have another wiring issue with the signals, unrelated to the motor cable.
Hi i have a question so i been looking for a place for fix my damaged cable unfortunately i dont find any place they only recommend change the whole motor but its hard to find one with the same connection can u help me finding it ??
Pd my bicycle its a hurley Bigswell Neco rear motor M58CD
The connector end on mine is different to any that is available to be bought can I just cut the old end off and attach it to the new cable?
Yup, as long as you know how to solder wires.
Simpler: After the "massage" - pulling the insulation, DO NOT shorten all the wires! leave one long, and solder the "guide" wire to it. You pull it all in, with that guide wire.
when you shorten other wires, do not shorten to the same length, but short and then next longer... We get a conical configuration. Use grease, when pulling.
Thank you for this video. Would you consider doing one that shows how to replace the plastic cogs on this GMAC one day?
Just pull the motor cover off. Once it's off, all you need for the gears is a good external snap ring plier to take off the small snap rings that hold the gears on their axle stubbettes. The mid priced external snap ring plier sets with multiple replaceable end bits work well.you need a small diameter end tip. Don't bother with a set that doesn't list the end tip diameters you need the smallest or next smallest end tips to fit in those snap ring holes.
Where can I source a cable for my e scooter motor. It has hall effect sensors/wiring but my scooter doesn't them.
The motor is 1200 watts peaking at 2700. How do I determine what wire gauge I need?
I have a qsmotor that is stuck. I've cut all the wires but the stator still will not spin. Any ideas why ?
Thanks
The motor cable to my e-bike has been sliced by someone, cut clean roughly 8-10 inches away from the hub motor. It looks like there are 7 wires to reconnect inside there. There was never a connector. Is this repairable by adding some kind of cable connector? This is a 3 month old bike in otherwise like-new condition.
Yup. You can solder the wires all back together as they were with no connector, or use this opportunity to add one as you wish
Is there reason for keeping the outter most sheathing in line with the wires being swapped in harness? Why not remove the outter most sheathing entirely while moving the wires in and out of their places and through the narrow bore. Then when in place add it back to side of the harness that runs externally/outside of the motor to the circuit?
Or alternatively leaving the old sheathing in place and using the old wires you’re being replaced to pull the new wires into the existing sheathing in a single motion/effort as opposed to fighting with both in both their respective directions in and out?
I can’t imagine this is the easiest way to achieve the same results, and if so the motor company is on some bs frfr
Bro I need help I didn't leave a little little amount of the colored cable on there and I don't know which wire's to wire back the blue yellow and green
That's unfortunate! Taking a photo before snipping things is a good idea. If you have a controller that can auto map the hall signals it doesn't matter what order you use, but if it's not a programmable controller then yeah it will be some trial and error on your end. 6 possibilities isn't too many.
what do you do when the outer casing of the cable gets stuck in the axle
Tweezers if they can reach, other long metal pokey things if they can't.
Is it a 1000W motor?
How much does that usually cost?
Could you put a smear of silicone lub on the outer cable
GRIN always tries to make things easier. Could GRIN do the hub motor cable thing way easier?
In the All-Axle motor that we make, the cable doesn't to through a long channel in the middle of the axle but just a small channel off the the side, making cable replacement vastly easier.
My motor has all the colored cables that go to the PCB that's fine no problem but then there's also a black and white skinnier wires coming from the same large cable but they go into the coils underneath the magnets so I'm changing my main power cable but I don't know where they connect to I don't want to rip them out so should I just cut all the color ones out and resolder to those skinny wires that are in the coils leaving the original ones in place wherever they are installed to and just connecting to them with the 2 from the new cable
Most likely it is for a motor temperature sensor. Resoldering to those leads would be the best bet.
@@GrinTechnologies thank you for the reply I appreciate it , I did just that and everything is working good as new now, just wasn't sure about that one wire that's all. Thanks again and take care!!!!