Tips for buying your first airbrush - what should you consider?
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- Опубликовано: 30 июл 2024
- In today's video I talk about what you should consider when buying your first airbrush for scale modelling, and what I would personally recommend.
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Video Chapters
0:00 Introduction
0:13 Choosing an Airbrush
1:03 Airbrushes from my collection
1.59 What I wouldn't recommend
2:50 Cheap Airbrushes
3:03 Airbrush Components
6:48 Thank You
8:59 Other Considerations
9.47 Air Supply
11:36 My recommendation
13:02 What I used on the JS-2
14:15 Conclusion and follow-up video
14:45 Like, Share, Subscribe
Blog post on the cheap airbrush: mannmomo.blogspot.com/2017/08/... 
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I have an iwata and an H&S that I have never used because the cheap 20 quid brushes work well for my skill level, a H&S replacement needle is 50 quid and my first airbrush which was a cheap one I bent the needle on first use. So never use an expensive brush when you start out.
You are totally correct that an airbrush must be considered as part of a system. That means a compressor, regulator/water trap, hose and quick release connectors as well as the airbrush. I also recommend you have cleaning equipment which means micro brushes, cotton buds, airbrush cleaner, and small glass (little jam pots) and a supply of cellulose thinner. The latter will shift virtually any paint, wet, dry or cured but bear in mind, it may damage some types of seal.
The whichever brush you do chose, go for a dual action, gravity fed brush. This allows a better spraying action, lower air pressures, lower part count and considerably easier cleaning.
My personal experience with airbrushes started with cheap ones. This involved a few months of heartache as I rapidly hit the limitations of their design. My recommendation is therefore to start with an entry level quality brush. I would suggest a Harder & Steenbeck Evolution Pro as minimum. The reason for one of these is that you can strip it down to its constituent components without tools (with the exception of the internal seals). It’s also pretty bullet proof, it shares virtually every one of its components with the models further up the range and very importantly, is very easy to clean. You can also upgrade the air control, swap needle sets (0.15, 0.2, 0.4 & 0.6 mm), have various colour cups (micro to very, very large) and obtain spares and (specialist) tools very easily as it is a well supported product.
I often use cellulose thinners as my "deep clean" of my brushes, preceded and followed by IPA or Ethanol which are both miscible with both these and aqueous solvents. Never had an issue with seals, and never had a real issue with cheap brushes either, though the H&S brushes are excellent choices for those with the budget
Great advice thank you.
You're welcome!
Thanx. I’m gathering info on getting started with an airbrush; so this vid was/is perfect for me. I had not considered the portable compressor, thanks to your video im defo gonna check it.
Cheers.
Neil
Glad it was helpful!
Is it only me, or was anyone else amused by following up the mention of a quick disconnect coupler with the statement that the airbrush and compressor are inextricably linked? 🤣
Just you I'm guessing? I mean, try airbrushing without air....lol
Glad to have provided some merriment though! :-D
@@MannsModelMoments it was more the QD fitting and "inextricably linked"? Not really the point of a QD fitting, being inextricable...
Great video! I took the plunge last week and bought my first airbrush and compressor, it's a Fengda, the compressor has an air tank and the airbrush is an FE-186k. It took me a while to use it (I found it rather intimidating) but I have a question about airbrushes if you don't mind. is there a way to clean the airbrush after use without stripping it down? for example I used mine today for 4-5 mins to paint two parts of a model and then I had to remove the tiny nozzle and the needle in order to clean it. The nozzle is so tiny, I'm scared of losing it as I clean it. can you clean it without disassembling? (I'm using Vallejo acrylic paints thinned with vallejo thinner medium and a couple of drops of flow improver) I do flush airbrush cleaner through it, but that won't clean the needle will it?
I use the N&H tbh the pressure isn’t that great on it, useful video cheers.
The pressure is supposed to be around 20psi (I haven't measured it) - which is on the lower end for sure, but it works fine with properly thinned paint or with enamels. I definitely wouldn't say it's going to be the only compressor you'll ever need, but it's a good starting point to learn the basics.
@@MannsModelMoments definitely it’s a great starter point, I’ve tired putting Vallejo Model Air through the mini which is not meant to be thinned and have had blockages- Tamiya thinned seems to work, cheers
I know many modellers thin Vallejo Model Air for normal airbrushing, so I don't think this is necessarily the fault of the mini!
Don’t start with a cheap brush. It was a never ending source of frustration for me and I almost gave up on the hobby because of it. Once I dropped $90 on a PS-289 my problems ended. If I had to do it again knowing what I do now I would have brush painted while I saved up for a decent airbrush.
Not been my experience at all, and of course YMMV
@@MannsModelMoments they’re cheap for a reason.
I would say because they're almost certainly Chinese or south-Asian origin with very low labour and other costs. I've had just as many issues with my H&S Evolution Silverline as my £30 Amazon Chinese brand airbrushes.
@@MannsModelMoments also poor engineering and substandard materials.
Again, YMMV - I've not seen this