AMC V8 (304/360/401) Rear Main Seal and Oil Pan Gasket Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- In this video I show you how i replaced my rear main seal in my AMC 360 V8 (The process is the same for the 304 and 401) in my Jeep CJ7. AMC put these V8's in a variety of AMC cars and Jeep CJ's and J-Series Trucks. The process is the same just different things you will need to move out of your way in order to remove the oil pan depending on what vehicle the V8 is installed in.
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That chirping made me get up and check the smoke alarm
lol .. I know I lost the source files otherwise I’d edit the video .. I didn’t have a ladder tall enough back then to fix it
The only help this video gives me is to make me realize I should have bought those high-dollar engine mounts so removing and installing the pan is easy breezy on my '74 CJ5. Since the video starts with the pan already removed, we get to wait (waste) around nine minutes to discover this.
Thank you making a detailed video step by step, good angles and clarity etc. it’s the little videos like this that really help some of us out there just wanted to thank you for the post tackling mine this weekend
you're welcome! glad you found it helpful - how did it go for you?
Excellent video! Thanks! I replaced the rear main seal on my 1995 Jeep YJ with the 4.0 and it was a success! Now I am getting ready to do it on my Grand Wagoneer with the 360 V8, let see how that goes. I wish the oil pan gasket was a 1 piece!
Thanks! Good luck! I hear you don’t know why someone doesn’t come out with one I think it would be a good seller there are a lot of 360’s still out there
I just used rtv the right stuff.. the cork gasket on mine got so hard and brittle when i dropped my pan it actually was blocking 70% of the oil pump intake screen
On the AMC V8’s rear main cap, the rear main seal’s side “wings” are extra thick, so no RTV is required. Failure to grease the seal lip during installation can burn the new lip in a matter of minutes, so beware.
I would replace all of the bearings while I was down there. We replaced my son's main bearings and rod bearings a couple of weeks ago.
Yea in hindsight I wish I did - will be digging back in at some point
Good video; thanks for all the details; good all around job there !!!!!!!!
Thanks 👍
I wish felpro would make a one piece oil pan gasket for the 304. Almost finished with my rear main and oil pan gasket and to hear yours still leaks breaks my heart. We’ll see what happens with mine.
Yea I wish they did to, I think they do for the 258’s but for some reason not the v8’s. Let me know how yours goes - good luck!
Well uodate... got my it all back together... DAMN thing still leaks... oddly it leaks VERY VERY VERY slow a drop once every hour maybe.... but driving for 10 miles it seemed to leak more.
After messing with this for a week.. (painting) and valve covers and other things....
I dunno im debating on just running it counting the miles.. and see how long it needs to fill a quart back in..
Prior itd leak so bad just 10 min idle would have a puddle.. driving it would smole horribly as it leaked a ton.. i put a plate over top of the exhaust... turning when driving would pour oil on the exhaust and smoke badly...
Soooo it deff isnt even close to this. But meh.
If its like a quart out of 2000 or 3000 miles.. ill let it leak.
Fyi again your main bearing cap is TOAST lol its all copper
I was getting the same thing and then I decided to throw in some of that oil additive that swells the seals and that seems to have stopped it at least for now. Never feels good to throw that stuff in your engine but since the leak was so small I figured it might actually do something and seems to have for the time being.
I got this engine off of a pallet and supposedly it was “rebuilt” at one point .. it has been bored .030 over. It runs good, good oil pressure , etc but I am going to look into those caps for sure. I might end up bringing it to the guy who has rebuilt my other engines and have him go through the whole thing.
@@jeepcjgarage your crabk journal looks fine.. but the caps should never be orange its copper. It means the bearing coating is gone.
You probably just need new bearings and thats it. Going by how the journal looked fine.
Which stuff did you use to swell your seals ? Was it that blue bottle ? I tried that stuff prior to my rear main leaking and it didnt do anything.. wonfering if itll do anything now though ?
I also wonder did i use enough rtv between the seals surface ? Where they mate together ?? I dunno..
Lemme know what you used to seal it. Which bottle brand etc
@@jeepcjgarage just got some bars rear main stop lesk.. says it swells seals or reconditions em and has polymers to seal big leaks.. haha yea.. ill believe it when i see it.
I doubt itll work but hey.. almost got that blue devil stuff but i dunno.. Hope this works.
Driving around town everytime i park i get lile 6-7 drips on pavement. Still isnt as bad as prior.. but still leaks too much
@@jeepcjgarage had a guy who builds amc engines said fel pro rear main gaskets are defective.. undersized.. so thats why theyre all leaking for people.
He said to use SCE seals... So i guess ima try it a 2nd time eith SCE... but first ill see if the rear main seal stuff i got works or not.. but i doubt it
Let me know how it works out either way .. I think I used bars stop leak as well. I was fairly generous with the rtv between the corners on the upper and lower
I always put the gasket on the oil pan with rtv to hold it in place. Is that wrong????
No I have done that to - it’s just more work to clean if you have to take it off later
I liked the aftermarket motor mounts. What brand ?
Mountain offroad “bomb proof”
Tank's
My 360 on my grand wagoneer has been leaking for 5 years... its so bad now it leaks a quart ever 100 mile... i tried to replace it once but the upper seal wont budge.... such a pain... I moved and have a workshop now versus living in a townhouse.. so i will attempt it again.. one problem with the wagoneer is the exhaust is directly below it so no room for tools.. So i have to cut the exhaust off there too.
Also heard dozens of times they still leak after.. i read its due to the old seal rubbing a groove into the crank.
Tbh i just need to get a engine crane and remove it.. the exhaust manifolds leak and i gatta keep patching them. The intake manifold leaks oil out the front and rear. And leaks coolant out of the front. The timing cover leaked after a waterpump replacement until i totigjtend it down gorrilla tight. Oil filter housing leaks. Uhg.. it needs seals everywhere lol
i feel your pain! Every 360 i have worked on leaks - some more than others, but they all leak somewhere. Some leak more once i get done "fixing" the leaks. I suppose that's part of the fun lol? The valve cover bolts are notorious for leaking - make sure those are all tight, i have had drips there that i thought were coming from other places.
The grand waggys definitely add more work, but they are nice rides! They make replacement y-pipes for the exhaust i believe and they are fairly readily available - for the CJ7's they are harder to come by which is why i just run headers and true dual exhaust otherwise i would have had the same issue if i was running a factory exhaust.
@@jeepcjgarage just made a vid of my wagoneer if youre interested.. its 30 min long though lol
@@jeepcjgarage worst thing for any Jeep or car though are the cheap parts.. Team Grand Wagoneer has a nice selection of parts.. but their trim and plastic leices are utter junk. Alternators waterpumos.. radiators.. all that good stuff made in china they dont last... Im just about to replace my alternator for the 3rd time on my 5.9 limited 98 grand cherokee.. So sick of it
Nice I will watch it this week! I had an 88 I attempted to restore but it was way to far gone for my skill level
Yea I hear ya - going through that with the cj2a I am working on now, thankfully there are a lot of good places selling NOS or really high quality US made replacements - much more so for the really old Jeeps then the later model Jeep for some reason
Does she still leak after this? Mine does 😅
Yup! Not as bad as before but was a real bummer to see it drip, at least It waited 3 days, I think that was the first consecutive 3 day period I ever went without something leaking 😄- why they ever thought a two piece seal is a good idea is beyond me
@@jeepcjgarage also check your valve cover gasket and or valve cover fasteners. Mine leaked from the valve cover fasteners as they were loose. As much as I would like to LS swap mine, the sound and the reliability of the 360 with a modern carburetor is pretty nice.
Question 80 ft lbs ? I looked up the specs it says 100 ft lbs for every example i can find on google ? I did mine to 100 just now because i couldnt find anything saying 80 like you did. I hope i did the rear main right... im so done with this oil leak..
I keep thinking i didnt use enough rtv on the top and upper seal lips.. but im paranoid.. gonna be pissed if it leaks... and give up lol..
The upper seal was hard to get in once it was like 70% of the way in.. lol
I used torq specs out of an old dealership service manual I had. I forget which one - I can try and upload a copy of the page that had the specs on it. Yea that upset seal is a pain!
GM. Thank you for a very articulate and well-made video. I have to replace the rear main on my 360. I have a CJ& and stock mounts. In your narration of a previous project, you mentioned loosening stock motor mounts. Is it necessary to remove one mount only? Can you keep the transmission mated to the bell housing and have sufficient wiggle room to clear the tray/oil pump pick-up tube as the oil pan is removed? It was a bear to install my 360. I would like to keep the disassembly to a minimum. Thank you in advance for your time in responding to my questions!
Your welcome, glad you found it useful. Yes I did have to loosen the stock mounts on the other jeep cj7 I did with a 360 in it, the oil pan won’t clear if you don’t. I believe it was only one side though. I forget off of the top of my head which but it become very obvious once you try to wiggle the pan out. I did not remove anything else, trans and bell housing stayed in place, if you have the inspection cover on the bottom of your bell housing I would remove that just to give you a little more room (it’s easy to take off). Let me know if you have any other questions
@@jeepcjgarage Thank you for your reply :)
One more question if you have a minute:
Did you have to remove (completely) the stock mount on one side or simply loosen it up before taking the weight off of it with a hoist?
@@culpyy yea i just loosened it, i did not take it completely off.
@@jeepcjgarage thank you!
Since you had the main bearing cap off, why not plastigage it?
Good idea - to be honest I didn’t know about plastigage until you mentioned it - will give it a try next one I do.
Where did you get motor mounts?
They are from mountainoffroad.com they are the bomb proof motor mount kit for cj with AMC V8
@@jeepcjgarage I have the same setup as you 360 in a CJ7. was thinking about replacing the motor mounts. but was wondering if this causes the transmission to be out of alignment. I have stock mounts with the 4 speed trans. I am also replacing the seals and timing chain on the engine. She is on a stand, the frame on axles and the tub in hibernation. thx for the video rear main seal will be replaced today along with the timing set
@@Robert-vv9yg as far as I can tell everything lined up perfectly. I have had two different transmissions behind the 360 with these mounts (t176 and now a t18) both lined and fit great with factory skid plates, mounts, holes etc. good luck with the project let me know how it turns out!
Did you by chance record how much and where exactly you put RTV on?
Unfortunately I didn’t - I was very generous with it between the two pieces of the rear main and on the 4 corners where the oil pan cork gasket touches the river gaskets
Do about the thickness of a dime
Sorry, couldn’t make it through your video. The beeping in the background made me want to break my phone.
how long did that job take you?
A little less than 2 hours if I recall correctly