For fuji’s, what’s actually great is you don’t have to give up shutter AF for back button focus. Anytime you want to use BBF, turn the focus dial to M (manual) and the AE button (or whatever button you assign for af) will work. Don’t see this much if at all and it’s a great function.
@escortrsts2 great question! Quick answer it is more flexible, and you have more control. It is also faster than shutter button focus coz you don't have to focus again and take the shot as you are holding the focus and taking the shot. The long answer is this - i found this, and it really explains the advantages of BBF. "For instance, you can easily switch between continuous and single autofocus modes without changing your camera settings. Just hold the back button to track a moving subject, or release it to lock focus on a still subject. Additionally, you can avoid accidental refocusing when you recompose your shot or when something comes between you and your subject. You can also use manual focus without turning off the autofocus system; just focus manually with the lens ring, and then press the back button to fine-tune or confirm the focus." Please give it a go and try it :)
But in theory (except of the flexibility argument) it is the same technique. I do it the same way like you describe it. Half press the shutter on the object, hold it while recomposing the image and them just fully press it.
@@rob-308right, so with back button focus you don’t need to hold anything if you’ve established focus. It’s really just a preference thing. For me, I spend most of my time when I’m working in situations where I have to be using back button focus, so when I’m using my x100, I have it set the same way just because my muscle memory is built in already. If you don’t find it to be hindering your progress, I’d say do whatever is working for you. If you do end up doing anything like sports or weddings or a lot of street photography, you may want to try back button focus at least once just to see if it helps your workflow
Great video. Do you change your sharpness and noise reduction settings? I actually don’t prefer the grain in my image and I think it’s a fine balance between the sharpness and noise reduction setting. Too much sharpness and the image is grainy. Too much noise reduction and the image lacks definition. I am not a raw shooter btw.
hi there! couple of questions if you don't mind me asking -- 1. could you clarify on when you would use face detection on/eye off, versus face detection on/eye auto? specifically in terms of how far you and the subject are apart from one another, and how many people you're photographing in the frame? for instance, when going outdoors and shooting pictures of street life (people doing their daily activities), and shooting pictures with family (where there are 2+ people in the frame), which setting would you recommend? 2. also unrelated to taking portraits, do you ever use AF-S mode on your X100VI? I hear the 23mm f/2's 'older/outdated' lens performs much better at AF-S and it can't really keep up with AF-C, which exhibits hunting/stuttering even with static objects when focusing and recomposing. how has your experience with the X100VI's autofocus performance been like? 3. and lastly, what are your favorite recipes from fujixweekly?
Great questions! 1. Turn it off when you shoot the subject in full body as face detect will work better. In terms of multiple subjects like family, I would probably turn my aperture to maybe f2.8 or f4 to have them all in focus if that's what you're aiming for - having them in the same plain of focus like have them standing closely together will have them in focus. Also, turn off eye AF while doing that or just simply revert to AF-S so you have more control.
2. Rarely, maybe when I'm shooting landscapes or detail shots, which AF-C's weakness I'd turn to AF-S. It is also great to try the different AF-C custom settings to match your subject or your shooting style. 3. My favourite all-around recipe is Portra 400 V2 with a modified custom WB for daylight and shade. I also have a modified Bright Kodak and Pacific Blues with again, custom WB. I love Kodak Gold 200 too!
Good morning, congratulations for the review and for your RUclips channel. I have a question for you about the Fujifilm x100VI: to switch from photo to video mode you have to act on the rear menu (LCD) by manually setting the mode, but wanting to set any button as the REC button, while in photo mode for convenience and operational speed , does pressing the latter record with the same settings assigned for the video mode? I'm asking you because I did this test and by pressing the button dedicated to video recording on the screen the video starts recording but without any information regarding FPS and more. Thanks in advance for the reply
The only issue with using the electronic shutter instead of the ND filter is the camera will produce not very pleasing bokeh over 1/1000s - it starts at 1/1000 and gets worse the closer you get to 1/4000. This is due to the leaf shutter not being able to move fast enough at wide apertures. Also, the base ISO for DR400 is 500 on the newer sensors - I believe it was 640 before.
@GhosT396 yep, that's why you need to set to mechanical + electronic. It will only switch to electronic when you reach the SS limit of MS, which is 1/4000, i think. And you are also right with the base iso of DR400, the only thing is when you use auto-iso, you can't set to specific iso, you can only set to range, which is setting the limit to iso800 is where you can use DR400.
@@dicesales No I mean, the mechanical shutter limit is 1/4000, but from 1/1000 to 1/4000 this problem occurs, the camera will not switch to electronic until it needs a shutter speed above 1/4000. It means any shots taken from 1/1000 to 1/4000 SS show the strange bokeh. It's a well documented issue with the cameras which is a bit of shame. Regarding auto iso, you don't set a base limit ISO because the camera will automatically select 500 ISO as its base if you're using DR400, despite the base setting being 125, and keep your upper limit to whatever you set.
@@GhosT396 ahh.. I see, yeah, its well known for Sony cameras too. I will test and compare it soon as I don’t really notice it. Thanks :) Yes, that was the point of using auto-iso. What I meant was you can only choose set of iso ranges. ISO limit 400 is the lowest but if you want to use DR400, you will need to choose the next range which has an ISO limit of 800.
@@dicesales Yeah definitely try it out, you can see the bokeh balls get kinda cut in half - it's mainly noticeable with a very busy background. Regarding the auto iso i'm not sure what you mean. If you set an auto iso range of 125 lowest and say, 3200 highest, your iso will be 125 if you're on DR100, 250 if you're on DR200 and 500 if you're on DR400 (obviously if there's enough light otherwise it will go up to your chosen limit). You don't need multiple ranges except if you want different auto iso settings with different minimum shutter speeds
Hello, I think "grain effect" does not carry over to your photos if your shooting raw. But my preferred setting for my grain effect is weak and small :) Coz strong/large makes it a little blurry or not sharp, but is a subjective thing.
A question: when You show BBF in action the focus square locks and stays on “target” while You move the camera. When I tried to do the same focus locks as supposed to, but does not stay on target while I move the camera. What setting is wrong? /Jon, SWEDEN
Hi there! When I use the back button focus the back gets a little overexposed, just in the screen. Afterwards in the photo is ok. Is this normal? Thank you Dice 🙏🏼
@ yes! When in AFC if I press the back button focus, the highlights over exposes, but it doesn't affect the final photo. Is this normal for a Fuji, or there's a setting I can change to fix this? Thank you so much Dice!
@AlexxJesus-x7v thats normal :) i think the camera's dynamic range preview just turns off while holding the focus or while focusing. You don't have to worry about it.
@ricardomunoz4462 yes! But if you are going to use Auto ISO, you can either use ISO limit 400, which is a little short if you're going to use DR400 or ISO limit 800, which is the next one.
Yes, when AF-C is used, with AF-S the camera focus once when halfpresesd so if you move the camera back/forth whilst half-pressing the focus will thus be off.
Amazing video. Curious to try Back Button Focus :) Question about White Balance and Kodak Portra v2. I loved your portrait shot using the recipe, but did you use a different white balance for it? Whenever I use that recipe it always turns out too green. Thanks again! Galing mo talaga sir! :)
For fuji’s, what’s actually great is you don’t have to give up shutter AF for back button focus. Anytime you want to use BBF, turn the focus dial to M (manual) and the AE button (or whatever button you assign for af) will work. Don’t see this much if at all and it’s a great function.
Thanks for the tip! :)
@@dicesales my pleasure!
It would be amazing an episode about how to set the camera to shot raw, and an episode about recipes!
Thanks a lot !!! Love your work and thing you do with an X100VI.
@@LiMaDemi thank you so much!!
Taking notes down ✏️ great tips broski!
Cheers broski!!
thaks for this, you're images are gorgeous and you explain the setting very clearly! Invaluable
Thanks for the great feedback man! Much appreciated 😊
Great video. Love the tips, photos and your summary at the end. Good luck on your journey.
@@aykuthakkut thank you ;)
The Beast Tip and Tricks I’ve Seen Here in YT! Love the Model Shots too! 😉❤
@@marvindicate thanks bro! Send the invoice hahaha
Dice, really nice walk thru the operation settings! New subscriber. Thank you!
Welcome! Glad you enjoyed the video.
Great tips! Thank you 🙏
@@HatefYaminiOnline cheers :)
really nice video! thanks for the tips. can you tell me what recipe was used on the shot at 06:37? it looks so good!
That will be pacific blues with a custom WB :)
Amazing video,hope finally to set my x100v
Temping to repeat everything on x100v❤
X100V is love
Great video, I will have to try out using back button focusing next time!
glad you like the vid, man! thanks!
Why not just half press the shutter button on the subject and then you can do exactly the same as back button focusing, or am i missing something?
@escortrsts2 great question! Quick answer it is more flexible, and you have more control. It is also faster than shutter button focus coz you don't have to focus again and take the shot as you are holding the focus and taking the shot. The long answer is this - i found this, and it really explains the advantages of BBF. "For instance, you can easily switch between continuous and single autofocus modes without changing your camera settings. Just hold the back button to track a moving subject, or release it to lock focus on a still subject. Additionally, you can avoid accidental refocusing when you recompose your shot or when something comes between you and your subject. You can also use manual focus without turning off the autofocus system; just focus manually with the lens ring, and then press the back button to fine-tune or confirm the focus." Please give it a go and try it :)
But in theory (except of the flexibility argument) it is the same technique. I do it the same way like you describe it. Half press the shutter on the object, hold it while recomposing the image and them just fully press it.
@@rob-308right, so with back button focus you don’t need to hold anything if you’ve established focus. It’s really just a preference thing. For me, I spend most of my time when I’m working in situations where I have to be using back button focus, so when I’m using my x100, I have it set the same way just because my muscle memory is built in already. If you don’t find it to be hindering your progress, I’d say do whatever is working for you. If you do end up doing anything like sports or weddings or a lot of street photography, you may want to try back button focus at least once just to see if it helps your workflow
thanks for the info, bro really are pro
cheers bro! much appreciated!
Wow nice photos! What do you like to set your white balance to at night for street photography JPEG straight out of camera?
Great video. Do you change your sharpness and noise reduction settings? I actually don’t prefer the grain in my image and I think it’s a fine balance between the sharpness and noise reduction setting. Too much sharpness and the image is grainy. Too much noise reduction and the image lacks definition. I am not a raw shooter btw.
You've earned a subscriber 😊 May I ask your post processing workflow? Do you have use lightroom or capture one?
I use LR :) but I think i need to use Capture One soon - thanks so much!
hi there! couple of questions if you don't mind me asking --
1. could you clarify on when you would use face detection on/eye off, versus face detection on/eye auto? specifically in terms of how far you and the subject are apart from one another, and how many people you're photographing in the frame?
for instance, when going outdoors and shooting pictures of street life (people doing their daily activities), and shooting pictures with family (where there are 2+ people in the frame), which setting would you recommend?
2. also unrelated to taking portraits, do you ever use AF-S mode on your X100VI? I hear the 23mm f/2's 'older/outdated' lens performs much better at AF-S and it can't really keep up with AF-C, which exhibits hunting/stuttering even with static objects when focusing and recomposing. how has your experience with the X100VI's autofocus performance been like?
3. and lastly, what are your favorite recipes from fujixweekly?
Great questions!
1. Turn it off when you shoot the subject in full body as face detect will work better. In terms of multiple subjects like family, I would probably turn my aperture to maybe f2.8 or f4 to have them all in focus if that's what you're aiming for - having them in the same plain of focus like have them standing closely together will have them in focus. Also, turn off eye AF while doing that or just simply revert to AF-S so you have more control.
2. Rarely, maybe when I'm shooting landscapes or detail shots, which AF-C's weakness I'd turn to AF-S. It is also great to try the different AF-C custom settings to match your subject or your shooting style.
3. My favourite all-around recipe is Portra 400 V2 with a modified custom WB for daylight and shade. I also have a modified Bright Kodak and Pacific Blues with again, custom WB. I love Kodak Gold 200 too!
Good morning, congratulations for the review and for your RUclips channel. I have a question for you about the Fujifilm x100VI: to switch from photo to video mode you have to act on the rear menu (LCD) by manually setting the mode, but wanting to set any button as the REC button, while in photo mode for convenience and operational speed , does pressing the latter record with the same settings assigned for the video mode? I'm asking you because I did this test and by pressing the button dedicated to video recording on the screen the video starts recording but without any information regarding FPS and more. Thanks in advance for the reply
Thank you for the amazing video! Do you boost sharpness during post-edit?
Thank you! Yes, I apply "standard" sharpness in LR when exporting.
Subscribing very well spoken and knowledgeable. Thank you
Much appreciated, happy to have you on board!
The only issue with using the electronic shutter instead of the ND filter is the camera will produce not very pleasing bokeh over 1/1000s - it starts at 1/1000 and gets worse the closer you get to 1/4000. This is due to the leaf shutter not being able to move fast enough at wide apertures. Also, the base ISO for DR400 is 500 on the newer sensors - I believe it was 640 before.
@GhosT396 yep, that's why you need to set to mechanical + electronic. It will only switch to electronic when you reach the SS limit of MS, which is 1/4000, i think. And you are also right with the base iso of DR400, the only thing is when you use auto-iso, you can't set to specific iso, you can only set to range, which is setting the limit to iso800 is where you can use DR400.
@@dicesales No I mean, the mechanical shutter limit is 1/4000, but from 1/1000 to 1/4000 this problem occurs, the camera will not switch to electronic until it needs a shutter speed above 1/4000. It means any shots taken from 1/1000 to 1/4000 SS show the strange bokeh. It's a well documented issue with the cameras which is a bit of shame. Regarding auto iso, you don't set a base limit ISO because the camera will automatically select 500 ISO as its base if you're using DR400, despite the base setting being 125, and keep your upper limit to whatever you set.
@@GhosT396 ahh.. I see, yeah, its well known for Sony cameras too. I will test and compare it soon as I don’t really notice it. Thanks :)
Yes, that was the point of using auto-iso. What I meant was you can only choose set of iso ranges. ISO limit 400 is the lowest but if you want to use DR400, you will need to choose the next range which has an ISO limit of 800.
@@dicesales Yeah definitely try it out, you can see the bokeh balls get kinda cut in half - it's mainly noticeable with a very busy background. Regarding the auto iso i'm not sure what you mean. If you set an auto iso range of 125 lowest and say, 3200 highest, your iso will be 125 if you're on DR100, 250 if you're on DR200 and 500 if you're on DR400 (obviously if there's enough light otherwise it will go up to your chosen limit). You don't need multiple ranges except if you want different auto iso settings with different minimum shutter speeds
Quick question: Are you adding grain in camera? And if so do you prefer strong or weak / large or small.
Hello, I think "grain effect" does not carry over to your photos if your shooting raw. But my preferred setting for my grain effect is weak and small :) Coz strong/large makes it a little blurry or not sharp, but is a subjective thing.
@@dicesales Thanks so much! Thats exactly what I was looking for.
Can you list out all the recipes that you use?
I used my presets on this video but the presets were inspired by FujiXweekly's Kodak Gold 200, Kodachrome 64 and Portra 400 v2 recipes.
A question: when You show BBF in action the focus square locks and stays on “target” while You move the camera. When I tried to do the same focus locks as supposed to, but does not stay on target while I move the camera. What setting is wrong? /Jon, SWEDEN
Make sure you are in AF-C mode and using WIDE area. :)
Hi there! When I use the back button focus the back gets a little overexposed, just in the screen. Afterwards in the photo is ok. Is this normal?
Thank you Dice 🙏🏼
@AlexxJesus-x7v are you referring to the highlights get overexposed while holding down back button focus?
@ yes! When in AFC if I press the back button focus, the highlights over exposes, but it doesn't affect the final photo. Is this normal for a Fuji, or there's a setting I can change to fix this?
Thank you so much Dice!
@AlexxJesus-x7v thats normal :) i think the camera's dynamic range preview just turns off while holding the focus or while focusing. You don't have to worry about it.
@@dicesales thanks a lot! Keep doing your inspiring videos! Greatings from 🙌🏼🇵🇹
Hi , i try to set my face detection on/off on the Fn1 button however its not working. do u know why?
Hmm... that's weird. Can you see the "af-box" at all? the "green box" when you focus?
@@dicesales yes i do!
i think Dr400 is 4x iso base, iso base on x100vi is 125, hence 500iso is the needed for dr400
@ricardomunoz4462 yes! But if you are going to use Auto ISO, you can either use ISO limit 400, which is a little short if you're going to use DR400 or ISO limit 800, which is the next one.
Can't the half press of the shutter hold focus?
Yes, when AF-C is used, with AF-S the camera focus once when halfpresesd so if you move the camera back/forth whilst half-pressing the focus will thus be off.
the issue with x100vi is its impossible to buy. its selling for 2000usd at the moment.
Amazing video. Curious to try Back Button Focus :) Question about White Balance and Kodak Portra v2. I loved your portrait shot using the recipe, but did you use a different white balance for it? Whenever I use that recipe it always turns out too green. Thanks again! Galing mo talaga sir! :)
Thanks sir!! I do have custom WB for all my recipes - one daylight and one for shade :) I you found it too green, you can tweak it more to the right.