TSA (airline) approved ebike battery
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- Опубликовано: 11 сен 2024
- Please enjoy the following instructional video on how to produce a 36volt 10Ah ebike battery that is TSA (FAA) approved for airline travel.
Below I've listed the tools and materials used to make this video:
Battery adapter: amzn.to/3tF6vQQ
Rear rack bag: amzn.to/3TGaeYZ
Solder: amzn.to/3tuue6f
Crimping connectors: amzn.to/47jmh1h
Charger: amzn.to/3tDyd0c
Dial calipers: amzn.to/4aHpxGU
Multimeter: amzn.to/3tEfMbH
Nylon washers: amzn.to/41K2uXD
Sex bolts: amzn.to/48j4PeE
Plastic sheet: amzn.to/48iQejl
XT60 to Anderson connector: amzn.to/4aR8WR4
XT60 Y splitter: amzn.to/41G1AeM
XT60 connectors: amzn.to/3vitNMT
Dewalt batteries 2 pack: amzn.to/47e1eNK
34:45 Before connecting batteries on both sides, you should measure that the voltages are close to each other. Otherwise the side with batteries with higher voltage will try to charge the other side *very rapidly* because you're connecting sides in parallel with a thick wire when you connect the split wire.
I don't believe this is correct.. There is not a complete circuit between any of the batteries until he put the multimeter into the pack. the only real danger here is not having all batteries charged equally when using the pack and having one battery run too low on energy, ruining the dewalt cell pack.
@@lolapplesauce Let's say you have 4 batteries at 16, 17, 18 and 19 V. If you have 16 and 17 V batteries in series for total of 33 V for the series connected combination, and 18 and 19 V batteries in another series combination for 37 V. When you now connect the Y-split wire, you're combining the black ground wires together and the red wires together. The series combination with 37 V will have 4 volt difference to 33 V combination, right? As a result, that 4 volt difference will be balanced as rapidly as one series connected battery can release the required energy and the another (33 V) series combination can take it in.
In reality the voltage differences between the batteries should be much less but the idea is still the same.
Couple of points for the benefit of others: 1] iron temp seemed a bit hot; 2] solder wicking down into the wire insulation is something that your actually trying to limit/ avoid as much as possible.
29:20 DO NOT sand the soldering tip. The tip is supposed to have thin coating from the factory and if you apply sandpaper or file to the tip, you destroy the coating. You should use a brass sponge to clean you tip instead - just melt some fresh solder to the tip and clean it using a brass sponge immediately before use. If the tip of your soldering iron looks black - like in this video - the coating in the tip has already been destroyed beyond repair and it's the time to get a new tip for your soldering iron. If your soldering iron doesn't have thermostat controlled temperature, it'll burn off the coating from the tip pretty fast.
And apply lots of solder flux.
If you can use something like TS-100 or TS-80 soldering iron (should cost around $60-$80), the soldering iron has a lot more power to solder thick wires without burning the insulation away and doesn't destroy the coating in the tip because the temperature control actually works. Getting lots of tips for a cheap soldering iron because it destroys the coating is quite expensive route in long run.
The smoke raising from the solder is the flux. When it stops smoking, you've already run out of flux so if the soldering iron tip is still in the solder, you used too little flux.
And remove the flux after soldering using isopropyl alcohol unless you used speficially no-clean flux. Otherwise the solder will oxidize over time and you get a poor connection.
WOW Chris!! 8 years ago you taught me how to build bicycle wheels.. Today am prety good at that thanks to you.. Now here you are with antoher killer topic that, as a matter of fact, applies directly to my current lifestyle. Thanks Bro!!
Nice to see a new video.. Your series on wheel building was a life saver.
Usually, if the lithium-ion batteries are drained too much or left sitting around doing nothing the BMs inside the batteries run out of power it usually has a 5v battery that is drained but you can restore the batteries back to working condition by using a working/normally charging battery and just use the good battery to charge the dead battery back to life by adding a
Wire piece to the positive ends of both batteries and the negative ends of the working and Dead battery and leave it as is for about 1 to 2 minutes then the Dead battery should start accepting a charge and start functioning again back to normal (You can use two pair of Scissors and do the same thing to revive the battery and get away with it ever when you have a different type /shape of battery pack).
This battery pack dying and not accepting a charge from the charger is a well-known problem and this method works pretty much each and every single time.
Would suggest you use the packing foam of your bickle battery pack to be cut in small sheets separately and then added around the battery pack assembly inside the Battery pack on all 6 sides to secure it for impacts while riding the bike or for safe travels.
Remedier to include inline fuses in case of a short in the bilen the cables and connectors Are not rated to carry the Max amp of four batteries delivering their fullest. 😉
Most of the big brand tools have a BMS built into the battery and I am fairly sure that DeWalt battery have this protection in as well (at least the ones in the UK do). I would still recomend charging them in the official battery charger but the battery should prevent you from over charging or under discharging them.
While I am keen hobbiest with electronics and batteries please do read all of the comments by MikkoRantalainen he is correct with my understanding with both the battery voltages and soldering irons. I personally leave extra solder on my soldering iron at the end of each use to help protect the tips until my next use when I clean it off using brass wool after it has heated up.
Tool battery BMS do not have any way to disconnect the positive nor negative of the battery. You could draw them down to 0 volts no problem. BMS monitors and communicates with appropriate device (tool and chargers) and tells them when to stop charging/discharging
How to avoid the lithium-ion battery restrictions? Switch to sodium-ion. If manufacturers' safety claims are true, then those should be safe enough to have no restrictions besides carry-on luggage space and weight limits.
29:20 "Make sure your tip is clean, I sanded this with sandpaper before I heated it up." Most soldering iron tips are plated with something to help solder stick to it, which in turn helps with heat transfer and picking up excess solder from solder joints. Sanding tips ruins that.
Oh yeah that's true!
Look into Northstar batteries.. I've got 16 North Star Red 12v 200Ahs that are triple sealed and certified out the wazooo for everything including airplanes.
There is the UN3481 classification for surface transport which permits a non-hazmat shipping approach. But I don't think this means internationally and certainly oceans do represent an issue.
I am worried about the cooling of the batteries inside the bag.
could you show how it folds up and fits into a suite case?
Have you tried charging it with a generic 36v ebike charger ? Would save you the hassle of charging each pack individually. It may or may not work as it will depend on if the packs will except charging via the out put. Be interesting to find out ?
9:35 If you have your own 3D printer, you could create your custom battery receiver with a bar shape that takes 4 batteries: one in each end and one battery under each battery. Basically the arrangement that you're describing around 11:00 but with a single plastic bar directly taking all the 4 batteries.
I will make one. Thank you. No, Two packs.