Having watched this video for five years ago and your current videos both are very informative wife has around 150,000 miles 2011 and I probably will be replacing the struts soon thank you for this video
I recently had a tire replaced at Pep Boys and started hearing this sound like the tire hitting the wheel well, so I went back (a few weeks after dealing with the sound). They told me today it's the front struts that are completely shot and that's why I hear the sound (like I'm driving over plastic bottles when I cut the wheel and back up). I had them quote the job, $867! The parts are way more affordable. I'm not sure if I'm going to attempt this myself or not, but this video is awesome. Very helpful, so thanks for posting it. So far my skill set is most of the electrical stuff in the car (2009 Rav4 V6 Limited), things like cabin and engine air filter, oil change, coolant flush, transmission flush and filter, I did the rear differential fluid and transfer case fluid, I changed one f my o2 sensors that was bad, I can do my own brakes, discs included, although I haven't changed the calipers and don't know how to bleed the brakes, but I'm sure that's fairly easy. Is my skill set good enough for this job, or should I get help?
Thank you for the video. I have a 2010 Rav and was able to do mine. Saved me $400 of labor. You weren't joking about air tools making it easier. I had to stand on my wrench to break loose those 22ml bolts. Edit: I used loaded struts.
Good video. I just did this and have one suggestion: when you put the nut on the top of the "shaft" in the video, you say to make sure the nut is "snug." I thought I had it right, finished the job, took the vehicle for a test spin, and was getting clunking sounds when going over bumps. I was sure I'd tightened everything up, including the new sway bar links I put in - Thanks for that Tip, by the way - saved me from wasting a few hours on a long bike ride mid-job! The fix to the clunking sound for me was to tighten the nut on the top of the strut piston to the factory spec of 35 lb. pounds (for post 2006 models, factory manual p. SP-8). I tightened it to that spec only after the tires were back on the ground. No more clunking. Maybe add in that spec to the video with some text for other amateurs like me. Otherwise v. helpful. Thanks!
Thanks for a great video! My Dad and I referenced it to change the struts and shocks on my 2007 RAV4 today. I was unable to find a 6mm hex drive anywhere, but we were able to remove the sway bar by using a 17mm wrench and turning the outer nut off, rather than by driving the center bolt through and out the back. Also, since we didn't have any impact tools, we used a pipe to extend the handle on my 1/2" drive socket wrench, making it about 2 feet long. That made removal of the lower strut attach bolts a lot easier. Those babies were tight. Oh, and we used the manual strut spring compressors and lived to tell about it. I was nervous during that part. Thanks again, man!
Thanks for this video! I followed all of your steps and was able to successfully change my struts. Especially helpful was you mentioning all of the sizes of sockets/ wrenches. Having that information beforehand allowed to make certain that I had everything I needed. The only hiccup I had was getting the sway bar reattached. It didn't want to line up, but I eventually figured that one out. Thanks again! This was extremely valuable!
I've kind of become addicted to your videos... I think I've got issues, I'm watching them now for entertainment, lol. Another great tip, about the strut bearing plate. I just overhauled a trans on a mini cooper, when I reinstalled the strut I began hearing the very noise you described at 12:46... kind of a "boing" noise... not being familiar with this I began looking for a broken coil spring or suspension issues to no avail. Thanks for your detailed approach describing the repair!
It's funny you are doing a strut job. I just wasted a big part of my day replacing struts on my Nissan Titan . Of course Im working in my driveway with no lift. The biggest problem was dealing with that loaner spring compressor. I have to admit I was scared , working off the back of my tailgate with no vice also was a challenge. I also had a problem getting the nut off the old strut, I used the vice grips however it still spun. ended up using a ratcheting 17mm wrench and a 8mm socket to bust it free. I also let the spring rotate a half inch in the saddle which did not allow me to get the shock bottom to align into its mount. I'm done now and enjoy wrenching on my own stuff, I just need to build a nice shop to make it easier. Great advice to home mechanics take the springs to the shop or buy them preloaded. great video as always.
Well Done Eric. I always let the adds run before viewing a vid , notice some mention it in notations for viewers to support the channel. Ah the farmall brought a lot of old fond memories. I spent my early years on the farm in the seat of a "h". All horse drawn implements , no TPH back then. That one looks fantastic. I've got a 100 ac hunt camp and run Kubota to bush hog 10 ac of pasture - always wanted to restore an "h" still plenty around. Repair vid, sorry but when I seen the Farmall , oh well.
Oh man I do love the "H's" as well... grew up with one brush hoggin myself and always wanted to own one, so I bought that one. Rebuilt the tranny in it last year and put it all back to original with all 6v factory lights, generator, cloth wiring and everything. I have a 2 bottom JD 44 trailer plow, 8' disc, 8' drag and 6' trailer brush hog for it. Use it for putting in food plots for the deer. Thought about doing some video's on it because I have a lot more work to do on it, of course I'm always messin with something on it but didn't think there would be the interest in it, heck if I know one person will be entertained with it, I'm on it lol.
I planted 6 acres food plot 6 years ago for deer seed called Bishops. Waste of time , it was mostly annual seed. All plowed up with single furrow bottom Plow. I now frost seed with custom mix from my local co- op and add extra white clover. 20 lbs per acre spread in my 100 lb broadcast spreader from the back of my atv. Have lots of deer in the pasture every night between 6 and 11 pm, their so stuffed we see very little during the day. Oh well we miss most of the time anyway . LOL
Frost seeding with white clover is excellent way to go. Deer seem to like it much better than red, more palatable, not as spiny I think. I like to use corn, buckwheat, and soy bean. They hammer it! Same stuff the farmers plant for ag crops and the deer destroy that so what the heck ya know, no sense in trying to introduce a foreign food to them...
I have a growing season from June 01 to late aug. . I wish I had yours. I'm on the north side of Algonquin provincial park probably 1000 miles north east of you. Not as many deer as you , more moose and plenty of timber wolves around 100 - 160 lbs keeps the heard low. Hey if you ever post a tractor vid that would be fantastic.
Great video ... used it to help do my 2009 front struts. Bought the kits from Rock which comes with the sway bars. Forget doing this without air tools ... yes, it can be done with muscle, but the Empire State Building can also be built without a crane ... but I wouldn't recommend it. On the sway bars, forget the 6MM Allen Wrench trick he shows ... go straight to vice grips. Of 4 times I tried, 3 spun out so I gave up on the fourth and just went straight to the vice grip trick. Also, when your trying to get the sway bar nuts off, even with vice grips, I found I had to first back them off, then tighten, then back off, then tighten ... took about 4 or 5 tries "rocking" the nuts before they came off. First one took 4 hours as I was going slow and being careful, but second took about an hour.
Great video I watched twice the the strut replacement on mine went ok. I had a problem with the front right tie bar that connects from the strut to the roll bar. The allen insert is very poor and whilst I used the air wrench to release it , it started to unbolt but at the top of the thread it completely siezed, I tried to ease it back and forward using spanner and WD40 but it still siezed. Id assume locktite perhaps ? I angle grinded the ball joints off and bought a new tie rod just 15$ but 2 day wait for parts. So my advice is order them with the struts. The left hand strut came off fine too 35mins the right hand 3 hours ! I changed the struts after only 45K miles as the right hand strut was leaking oil assuming a duff batch when manufactured in 2010. It caused a slight knocking from the front right that is now gone :-) thanks again
I wound up having my local shop cut them off. I still haven't changed the struts, but the sway bar links are only noticeable being gone on the highway with slight body roll.
Nice work Mr O. Mrs O recording in these early videos? I have the same style midrise lift as you had there. Its a pain to get the car centered and set on it, but works great once on. Especially with my 9' ceiling and thin floor.
what kind of drop light are you using? sorry if someone asked already but I could find it. Also you do a great job, you explain what you are doing very well. Easy to understand.
FWIW not that many people, even shops, change struts out of springs anymore, they just buy new struts preloaded into springs from the parts store, the cost increase is only about what you'd pay for a half hour labor to switch them out anyway and you get new springs. Last car I looked for both rear struts with springs was < $250 all in.
I always tighten the top nuts under the hood before I put the wheel back on and put the car on the ground, like you did in the video. I just saw a video saying you should tighten those with the car on the ground.. is there any truth to that?
Good job, I build this front suspension assembly at the Toyota plant. And just replaced one of these a few months ago, now they finally have a quick strut as his was leaking front drivers with 65,000 miles or about 107,000kms. Why was this being replaced?
This video was very interesting to me as I also have a 2011 RAV4. It's even the same color red. I live in So. Calif. so it's pretty rust free. I have less than 6,000 miles on mine so my struts are not due for replacement yet but I was interested in seeing how this job is done. I have the factory service manuals (all four volumes at about $250 each!) but I like to see actual videos and yours are very good. I'm a fairly dedicated shadetree mechanic and I even own a Branick 7200 spring compressor that I bought new several years ago. I was doing enough strut jobs for friends and family that it was worth it in terms of time and safety. I was wondering is your strut spring compressor a Branick 7400 or possibly the new 7600?
mailpup Funny you own a branick when most shops around here don't haha. To be honest I don't recall what model mine is and I am not at work right now to look. It was the latest and greatest about 8 years ago.
It's probably a 7400 then. Mine is older and the new 7600 came out recently. It's a bit extravagant for a home mechanic to say the least but I couldn't resist it. I bought it through a local Snap-on dealer I did a lot of business with at the time. He even drove me in his tool truck to a local shop to demo one. Anyway, your video was thorough, clear and as it happens I could really identify with the vehicle and tools you used. I'm now considering the IR impact ratchet you used in this video.
Recently did this thanks for the help.I did pay a shop to swap out the new strut and new bearing ang and boots.Problem is that I started to hear a slight clicking noise in the left front now when pulling in or backing out of parking spot.Any ideas?thanks
15:00 Any idea what could cause the pinch bolt to snap in two just one week after installing, even after it was torqued to spec? The car didn't hit any bumps and was driven on a highway 90 % of the time.
Used to own a rav4, darn good vehicle. One big problem is if you get rear ended, even if minor, the spare tire sticks out farther than the bumper so the whole door has to be replaced. The new rav4's though do not mount the tire on the door.
Do you still recommend that IR air ratchet? A friend owns a garage and lets me use his lift and tools. I’d like to get him something nice as a gift and that air ratchet looks the thing. Any chance of a link for it if you still think it’s a good product? Or just the model number by chance? Thanks!
Thanks Andrew! Sorry about the PPE :/ Just curious how come you couldn't show because I don't have PPE on? Just curious. State regulations? Or do you just want to lead students by example?
Sigh* Well I of all people should know better. Grew up in this industry, and have spent a good number of times in the bathroom with the q-tip digin stuff out of my eyes. Do you teach a vocational school? High school?
This is a GREAT Video. It's very informative and thanks to this video I was able to replace mine myself saving me $880. I always look for South Main videos first...Question: Once I put it all together with the new strut I now have a clunk noise. Upon further investigation I noticed a small gap around the top piece that pokes through the hole in the engine compartment. It's like the strut nut isn't tighten enough. I tightened it to 35ft lb (maybe a little tighter) which what the specs say. It doesn't really go any tighter. I took it all apart again and re-did it thinking I missed something and the same outcome...Ideas?
What was the problem.? My guess is either the strut is not fully seated fron under car or you cross threaded the nut and did not get it to seat agaist the body (bottom out) or you got a defective stud not allowing the nut to fully seat. Maybe try a few washers between the nut/stud and car- after confirming strut is fully seated under fender.
Great video. I have a 2012 with the 3.5 V-6, blows away all those little fart knocker cars with the loud muffler. Where are you located? I live in Liverpool.
Hey Jimmy Mac . Yeah those V-6 Ravs are really ballsy lol. I remember being pretty impressed the 1st one I ever drove. In Steuben County right near Bath.
Hey! thank you very much for this video is great... May I ask you something realted? I recently change the front strust on a RAV4 2007. After that I got a "skeek" noise at the rigth front and that Wheel jumps a lot! even after the struts replacement. What could be wrong?
I just had to replace my front wheel bearings on my 2011 RAV4 and noticed both sides boots were torn up. Are they attached at the top and bottom or do they just hand down from the top?
Well you got me all excited with the blown big block with NOS so it was all downhill after that...kinda like saying lets go deer hunting and then go the arcade and shoot water guns...
i had replaced my rav 4 struts but still i can hear a sound (tok, bang), i suspect it's the strut support.. i think it's the bearing.. my question is can i replace it instead of replacing the strut mount assembly? thank you.
What about rear shocks?Want to do mine and it looks like lower bolt will not have enough room to come out.Looks like the two bolts that hold the lower mount must be removed to drop the whole mount down to get the shock bolt out.Is that correct?
that's correct, make sure that you have a jack stand on the rear control arm to hold the pressure of the spring before you take it out though, otherwise it's a pain the ass
Hows the monroe strut performance on your rav4 , i have 2007 sport idk what strut should i buy. Somebody say its a junk, so how is your experience with monroe. Thank you
Have yet to find a vid on an '07 Rav4 4 cyl water pump replacement. Is it true the engine has to be pulled? WTF? Some good guy posted a 2007 Camry with the same 2AZ-FE engine...no big deal. Can you confirm please? Thanks.
They are dangerous if you're a complete moron and don't take the proper safety precautions. I use 3 spring compressors for extra Safety and I torque them evenly only as much as needed for the job. No problems ever.
+Aristotle2000 Not if It's been running on Pennsylvania roads. The road salt and conditions are rough on your body and suspension. I'm sure New York winter road conditions can be tough.
No torque wrench on the 19mm bolts when installing? Accordingly Toyota service manual it should have about 177 ft lb or 240 Nm. That air tool is not giving you the exact force.
![How to change a front shock strut on TOYOTA RAV4 II [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/m6F9qs71Tto/mqdefault.jpg)
Down to earth mechanic, no bulls--t, just honest work.
THAT'S what makes you the best! You forgot the wire donger, went back, got it, reinstalled it in the new strut! Great Video, Dr. O!
Having watched this video for five years ago and your current videos both are very informative wife has around 150,000 miles 2011 and I probably will be replacing the struts soon thank you for this video
Wow that's great mileage but i'm not surprised with a Toyota engine!
I recently had a tire replaced at Pep Boys and started hearing this sound like the tire hitting the wheel well, so I went back (a few weeks after dealing with the sound). They told me today it's the front struts that are completely shot and that's why I hear the sound (like I'm driving over plastic bottles when I cut the wheel and back up). I had them quote the job, $867! The parts are way more affordable. I'm not sure if I'm going to attempt this myself or not, but this video is awesome. Very helpful, so thanks for posting it. So far my skill set is most of the electrical stuff in the car (2009 Rav4 V6 Limited), things like cabin and engine air filter, oil change, coolant flush, transmission flush and filter, I did the rear differential fluid and transfer case fluid, I changed one f my o2 sensors that was bad, I can do my own brakes, discs included, although I haven't changed the calipers and don't know how to bleed the brakes, but I'm sure that's fairly easy. Is my skill set good enough for this job, or should I get help?
I hope you did it yourself, super easy
Thank you for the video. I have a 2010 Rav and was able to do mine. Saved me $400 of labor. You weren't joking about air tools making it easier. I had to stand on my wrench to break loose those 22ml bolts.
Edit: I used loaded struts.
Instead of standing on it, why not try a breaker bar after spraying with penetrating oil and using a mallet?
Which brand quick struts did you use, and are they still holding up ok?
Good video. I just did this and have one suggestion: when you put the nut on the top of the "shaft" in the video, you say to make sure the nut is "snug." I thought I had it right, finished the job, took the vehicle for a test spin, and was getting clunking sounds when going over bumps. I was sure I'd tightened everything up, including the new sway bar links I put in
- Thanks for that Tip, by the way - saved me from wasting a few hours on a long bike ride mid-job!
The fix to the clunking sound for me was to tighten the nut on the top of the strut piston to the factory spec of 35 lb. pounds (for post 2006 models, factory manual p. SP-8). I tightened it to that spec only after the tires were back on the ground. No more clunking. Maybe add in that spec to the video with some text for other amateurs like me. Otherwise v. helpful. Thanks!
Thanks for a great video! My Dad and I referenced it to change the struts and shocks on my 2007 RAV4 today. I was unable to find a 6mm hex drive anywhere, but we were able to remove the sway bar by using a 17mm wrench and turning the outer nut off, rather than by driving the center bolt through and out the back. Also, since we didn't have any impact tools, we used a pipe to extend the handle on my 1/2" drive socket wrench, making it about 2 feet long. That made removal of the lower strut attach bolts a lot easier. Those babies were tight. Oh, and we used the manual strut spring compressors and lived to tell about it. I was nervous during that part. Thanks again, man!
Charles Shumaker Haha nice! Glad you are still alive, just gotta have cat like reflexes if it cuts loose right :)
Thanks for this video! I followed all of your steps and was able to successfully change my struts. Especially helpful was you mentioning all of the sizes of sockets/ wrenches. Having that information beforehand allowed to make certain that I had everything I needed. The only hiccup I had was getting the sway bar reattached. It didn't want to line up, but I eventually figured that one out.
Thanks again! This was extremely valuable!
+Travis Zochert Glad it helped!
I've kind of become addicted to your videos... I think I've got issues, I'm watching them now for entertainment, lol. Another great tip, about the strut bearing plate. I just overhauled a trans on a mini cooper, when I reinstalled the strut I began hearing the very noise you described at 12:46... kind of a "boing" noise... not being familiar with this I began looking for a broken coil spring or suspension issues to no avail. Thanks for your detailed approach describing the repair!
Will Peters Haha well glad you enjoy them :)
One of the best diy videos I've seen. Great job!
It's funny you are doing a strut job. I just wasted a big part of my day replacing struts on my Nissan Titan . Of course Im working in my driveway with no lift.
The biggest problem was dealing with that loaner spring compressor. I have to admit I was scared , working off the back of my tailgate with no vice also was a challenge. I also had a problem getting the nut off the old strut, I used the vice grips however it still spun. ended up using a ratcheting 17mm wrench and a 8mm socket to bust it free.
I also let the spring rotate a half inch in the saddle which did not allow me to get the shock bottom to align into its mount.
I'm done now and enjoy wrenching on my own stuff, I just need to build a nice shop to make it easier.
Great advice to home mechanics take the springs to the shop or buy them preloaded.
great video as always.
+Gary Shute Glad to hear ya got it fixed!
Look at that old Farmall! It looks really good. Oh, nice strut job too.
Well Done Eric. I always let the adds run before viewing a vid , notice some mention it in notations for viewers to support the channel. Ah the farmall brought a lot of old fond memories. I spent my early years on the farm in the seat of a "h". All horse drawn implements , no TPH back then. That one looks fantastic. I've got a 100 ac hunt camp and run Kubota to bush hog 10 ac of pasture - always wanted to restore an "h" still plenty around. Repair vid, sorry but when I seen the Farmall , oh well.
Oh man I do love the "H's" as well... grew up with one brush hoggin myself and always wanted to own one, so I bought that one. Rebuilt the tranny in it last year and put it all back to original with all 6v factory lights, generator, cloth wiring and everything. I have a 2 bottom JD 44 trailer plow, 8' disc, 8' drag and 6' trailer brush hog for it. Use it for putting in food plots for the deer. Thought about doing some video's on it because I have a lot more work to do on it, of course I'm always messin with something on it but didn't think there would be the interest in it, heck if I know one person will be entertained with it, I'm on it lol.
I planted 6 acres food plot 6 years ago for deer seed called Bishops. Waste of time , it was mostly annual seed. All plowed up with single furrow bottom Plow. I now frost seed with custom mix from my local co- op and add extra white clover. 20 lbs per acre spread in my 100 lb broadcast spreader from the back of my atv. Have lots of deer in the pasture every night between 6 and 11 pm, their so stuffed we see very little during the day. Oh well we miss most of the time anyway . LOL
Frost seeding with white clover is excellent way to go. Deer seem to like it much better than red, more palatable, not as spiny I think. I like to use corn, buckwheat, and soy bean. They hammer it! Same stuff the farmers plant for ag crops and the deer destroy that so what the heck ya know, no sense in trying to introduce a foreign food to them...
I have a growing season from June 01 to late aug. . I wish I had yours. I'm on the north side of Algonquin provincial park probably 1000 miles north east of you. Not as many deer as you , more moose and plenty of timber wolves around 100 - 160 lbs keeps the heard low. Hey if you ever post a tractor vid that would be fantastic.
Oh man I'll post tractor videos for sure lol. We are pretty loaded with deer thats for sure but only small coyotes to deal with here
Nice video. It shows when you know what you're talking about. A rare find on You Tube.
saltcar Or I am a good guesser...
I like how you're able to stand in front of what you are showing...
This was the first video I watched of SMO. Good video sir.
Great video ... used it to help do my 2009 front struts. Bought the kits from Rock which comes with the sway bars. Forget doing this without air tools ... yes, it can be done with muscle, but the Empire State Building can also be built without a crane ... but I wouldn't recommend it. On the sway bars, forget the 6MM Allen Wrench trick he shows ... go straight to vice grips. Of 4 times I tried, 3 spun out so I gave up on the fourth and just went straight to the vice grip trick. Also, when your trying to get the sway bar nuts off, even with vice grips, I found I had to first back them off, then tighten, then back off, then tighten ... took about 4 or 5 tries "rocking" the nuts before they came off. First one took 4 hours as I was going slow and being careful, but second took about an hour.
Some droplinks have a cut-off in the back for an open wrench, so you can hold it in place while turning the front with another wrench or impact.
Thanks for the great video. Knowledge is power. My RAV is getting some new shocks. 👍
Great video I watched twice the the strut replacement on mine went ok. I had a problem with the front right tie bar that connects from the strut to the roll bar. The allen insert is very poor and whilst I used the air wrench to release it , it started to unbolt but at the top of the thread it completely siezed, I tried to ease it back and forward using spanner and WD40 but it still siezed. Id assume locktite perhaps ? I angle grinded the ball joints off and bought a new tie rod just 15$ but 2 day wait for parts. So my advice is order them with the struts. The left hand strut came off fine too 35mins the right hand 3 hours ! I changed the struts after only 45K miles as the right hand strut was leaking oil assuming a duff batch when manufactured in 2010. It caused a slight knocking from the front right that is now gone :-) thanks again
I wound up having my local shop cut them off. I still haven't changed the struts, but the sway bar links are only noticeable being gone on the highway with slight body roll.
Very helpful video thanks. Love that Farmall in the back
Cool dude with a helpful manner of sharing information. Subscribed today.
Thank you very much for the video it helped out a lot. And saved a lot of money at the shop.
Nice work Mr O. Mrs O recording in these early videos? I have the same style midrise lift as you had there. Its a pain to get the car centered and set on it, but works great once on. Especially with my 9' ceiling and thin floor.
Ahhh back in the beginning haha
Hi excellent video thanks going do one on rav 4 tomorrow as always you be safe 🇺🇸🇺🇸
Very well done!! I have an 07 RAV4 in need of struts. Any brands to avoid? Shop will do it.
what kind of drop light are you using? sorry if someone asked already but I could find it. Also you do a great job, you explain what you are doing very well. Easy to understand.
+Jason Smith astore.amazon.com/httpswwwy0837-20?_encoding=UTF8&node=4 does that help?
perfect, thanks
FWIW not that many people, even shops, change struts out of springs anymore, they just buy new struts preloaded into springs from the parts store, the cost increase is only about what you'd pay for a half hour labor to switch them out anyway and you get new springs. Last car I looked for both rear struts with springs was < $250 all in.
I'm liking those Bonney made MAC combo's and looong SO DBE wrenches.
I always tighten the top nuts under the hood before I put the wheel back on and put the car on the ground, like you did in the video. I just saw a video saying you should tighten those with the car on the ground.. is there any truth to that?
Very good job and easy explanation.. thanks
Good job, I build this front suspension assembly at the Toyota plant.
And just replaced one of these a few months ago, now they finally have a quick strut as his was leaking front drivers with 65,000 miles or about 107,000kms.
Why was this being replaced?
Struts: What is your opinion on Struts? How would you rank and in what order your opinion on KYB, Monroe and Gabriel?
Is the Victor mousetrap an optional accessory for the Branick strut compressor?
eldoradony it is, it is a reflex tester..
I will have to get one to go with mine.
If you can't beat the mouse trap you wont beat the spring in the strut haha
This video was very interesting to me as I also have a 2011 RAV4. It's even the same color red. I live in So. Calif. so it's pretty rust free. I have less than 6,000 miles on mine so my struts are not due for replacement yet but I was interested in seeing how this job is done. I have the factory service manuals (all four volumes at about $250 each!) but I like to see actual videos and yours are very good. I'm a fairly dedicated shadetree mechanic and I even own a Branick 7200 spring compressor that I bought new several years ago. I was doing enough strut jobs for friends and family that it was worth it in terms of time and safety. I was wondering is your strut spring compressor a Branick 7400 or possibly the new 7600?
mailpup Funny you own a branick when most shops around here don't haha. To be honest I don't recall what model mine is and I am not at work right now to look. It was the latest and greatest about 8 years ago.
It's probably a 7400 then. Mine is older and the new 7600 came out recently. It's a bit extravagant for a home mechanic to say the least but I couldn't resist it. I bought it through a local Snap-on dealer I did a lot of business with at the time. He even drove me in his tool truck to a local shop to demo one. Anyway, your video was thorough, clear and as it happens I could really identify with the vehicle and tools you used. I'm now considering the IR impact ratchet you used in this video.
Oh cool glad you liked the video. I am at work now and just looked, it is a 7400 too.
Thanks, made the job easier!
Would you recommend KYB shocks and struts?
+n310ea yes I use them all the time too
Yes KYB’s are OEM for Toyota. Get KYB’s made in Japan not Mexico.
@@daoudaqtash9243 KYB are way better than Monroe. The Monroe's are soft and don't last long.
Recently did this thanks for the help.I did pay a shop to swap out the new strut and new bearing ang and boots.Problem is that I started to hear a slight clicking noise in the left front now when pulling in or backing out of parking spot.Any ideas?thanks
Right on man! Nice job and thanks!
15:00 Any idea what could cause the pinch bolt to snap in two just one week after installing, even after it was torqued to spec? The car didn't hit any bumps and was driven on a highway 90 % of the time.
Used to own a rav4, darn good vehicle. One big problem is if you get rear ended, even if minor, the spare tire sticks out farther than the bumper so the whole door has to be replaced. The new rav4's though do not mount the tire on the door.
If that happens the other insurance will pay for it, but you could always put it on the roof.
Is that Feliz Navidad by Jose Feliciano in the background?
Do you still recommend that IR air ratchet? A friend owns a garage and lets me use his lift and tools. I’d like to get him something nice as a gift and that air ratchet looks the thing. Any chance of a link for it if you still think it’s a good product? Or just the model number by chance? Thanks!
Thanks a lot for this video, I wondering how much will cost workshop set-up like yours even with used equipment ?
Great video I would like to share this with the students class but the lack of PPE prevents me from doing so.
Thanks Andrew! Sorry about the PPE :/ Just curious how come you couldn't show because I don't have PPE on? Just curious. State regulations? Or do you just want to lead students by example?
Very good videos, no real regulations on what we can show just trying to lead by example.
Sigh* Well I of all people should know better. Grew up in this industry, and have spent a good number of times in the bathroom with the q-tip digin stuff out of my eyes. Do you teach a vocational school? High school?
Thank you helps me with my rav4
This is a GREAT Video. It's very informative and thanks to this video I was able to replace mine myself saving me $880. I always look for South Main videos first...Question: Once I put it all together with the new strut I now have a clunk noise. Upon further investigation I noticed a small gap around the top piece that pokes through the hole in the engine compartment. It's like the strut nut isn't tighten enough. I tightened it to 35ft lb (maybe a little tighter) which what the specs say. It doesn't really go any tighter. I took it all apart again and re-did it thinking I missed something and the same outcome...Ideas?
What was the problem.? My guess is either the strut is not fully seated fron under car or you cross threaded the nut and did not get it to seat agaist the body (bottom out) or you got a defective stud not allowing the nut to fully seat. Maybe try a few washers between the nut/stud and car- after confirming strut is fully seated under fender.
Great video. What kind of struts and shocks do you recommend? Does branding matter?
C. Wald what are the advantages to buying loaded struts?
C. Wald You don't have to disassemble them
C. Wald KYB is my favorite
Great thanks!!!
Eric O. is awesome! South Main Auto for the WIN!
Beautiful Tractor IH Power!!
***** Real tractors are red :)
HA-HA-HA-HA-HA-HA-HA-....That was an awesome intro Eric O.
Oh man back in the day hahah
Great video. I have a 2012 with the 3.5 V-6, blows away all those little fart knocker cars with the loud muffler. Where are you located? I live in Liverpool.
Hey Jimmy Mac . Yeah those V-6 Ravs are really ballsy lol. I remember being pretty impressed the 1st one I ever drove. In Steuben County right near Bath.
Love the intro!!! Yeah... I live for the smell of Nitro!!! Did you go to Epping this past wk'end?
epping?
Epping, NH. The NHRA was there last wk'end. 330 MPH Speed Limit.
I hope I spelled "Epping" correctly.
Hey! thank you very much for this video is great... May I ask you something realted? I recently change the front strust on a RAV4 2007. After that I got a "skeek" noise at the rigth front and that Wheel jumps a lot! even after the struts replacement. What could be wrong?
I just had to replace my front wheel bearings on my 2011 RAV4 and noticed both sides boots were torn up. Are they attached at the top and bottom or do they just hand down from the top?
Right arm buddy! Thanks
Well you got me all excited with the blown big block with NOS so it was all downhill after that...kinda like saying lets go deer hunting and then go the arcade and shoot water guns...
Would you recommend a clamshell spring compressor for a DIYer?
DZEyoyo123 I used one for a while with no issues really...
i had replaced my rav 4 struts but still i can hear a sound (tok, bang), i suspect it's the strut support.. i think it's the bearing.. my question is can i replace it instead of replacing the strut mount assembly? thank you.
Do new struts usually come with a new bump stop?
DZEyoyo123 no.. only quick struts
One of my front struts is leaking. Do I need to replace both when doing this, or is just the one that's leaking ok?
+shaun98si Best to do them both yes... IMO
+South Main Auto Repair Thanks very much for the quick reply and the video. It's really appreciated!
Eric, how do you like the IR hammer head? would you recommend it.
The little wire clip from 1:47! WHERE DID IT GO? Fantastic video. I wish I'd seen it sooner!
What about rear shocks?Want to do mine and it looks like lower bolt will not have enough room to come out.Looks like the two bolts that hold the lower mount must be removed to drop the whole mount down to get the shock bolt out.Is that correct?
that's correct, make sure that you have a jack stand on the rear control arm to hold the pressure of the spring before you take it out though, otherwise it's a pain the ass
Thanks..Response is about 10 months too late..already did it.
I changed mine and it had a rattle before and the same rattle after new struts were installed. Any ideas?
uturn190 Sway bar links or bushings bad?
You were right. Sway bar link was loose. Thanks!!!
Hows the monroe strut performance on your rav4 , i have 2007 sport idk what strut should i buy. Somebody say its a junk, so how is your experience with monroe. Thank you
I was just asking how would I replace that little wire
Eric
Is the IR Knuckle-Saver just as good as the Hammerhead impact ratchet?
USGunnery Not sure...
You can buy loaded struts as well n save money
Have yet to find a vid on an '07 Rav4 4 cyl water pump replacement. Is it true the engine has to be pulled? WTF? Some good guy posted a 2007 Camry with the same 2AZ-FE engine...no big deal. Can you confirm please? Thanks.
Ed Zanjero Check out my vids fixing the stripped out head bolts on the rav 4. In that one I replace a water pump on a 2AZFE
Is the 2015 rav similar enough that I can use these instructions?
It's very helpful, thanks
Thanks for the video.
thank you it was very helpful
Done many a strut with them compressors and never had one blow up on me. They are not that dangerous.
They are dangerous if you're a complete moron and don't take the proper safety precautions. I use 3 spring compressors for extra Safety and I torque them evenly only as much as needed for the job. No problems ever.
is Mrs O holding the camera .... me thinks so ..... you butt keeps featuring ...LOL
Thank you for sharing
Love your video...thank u
disculpa como se cambian los de atrás de la rav 4 como la que tienes hay roja 🙏
Having a lift and air tools is 75% of the battle. The other 25% is knowledge.
I have an electric impact. I haven't tried it for this, but almost guarantee it'll catch fire if I do. lol
South Main Auto Repair - What ft-lb torque is your impact gun rated at?
Nice and easy! Thanks
Changing the struts on a 2011 toyota in 2014.... shouldn't struts last longer than this?
+Aristotle2000 Not if It's been running on Pennsylvania roads. The road salt and conditions are rough on your body and suspension. I'm sure New York winter road conditions can be tough.
My 2008 rav 4 have problem with the hand break which are very bad i want to .
know how to fix this
thanx
I use a angle finder before removing the strut.
Grinder you mean? Like for the sway bar links?
Holy crap there's so much color in your beard!!
Anyone know what brand struts were used?
No torque wrench on the 19mm bolts when installing? Accordingly Toyota service manual it should have about 177 ft lb or 240 Nm. That air tool is not giving you the exact force.
177? Crap. Good to know. I haven't started this yet, but I was planning to look that up.
Where is a good place to buy new car parts?
+Bijan Mahlouji www.rockauto.com
Cool thanks!
Those sway bar links are shot. The noise those make when bad is why people think their struts are bad.
Awesome. Thanks!
Lmfao At the intro Big Block chevy Rav 4 🤣🤔 gives me a idea for 3rd Gen 4runner Eric O @SouthMainAutoRepairLLC
dang you must be used to the cold because I would of had a double full length coat with that much snow.
thanks so much
Wat happens if u break that little
haha i hear ya about the boingg noise. thats how ive been describing it when the bearsing start to fail lol
It would be nice to have a closer up viewpoint of your work. Remember this is being viewed on a phone or iPad.
nice post, thanks
come a long way since 2014
old school! nice!
Nice upstate rotors🇺🇸