18:27 currently in the process of making glass cabinet doors, but was looking for a better way to rabbet out the back. I think this is the solution, thank you!
Awesome! Glad you found it helpful. I've done it other ways but found this to be the easiest to get everything to line up and the best way to do the joinery without adding complexity
Nice result - very inspiring - think I'll steal your ideas and try it for myself! I like all my power toys sorry tools but often wonder why some creators spend ages setting up power tools to do something that could be done easily with a hand tool. Good to see someone who reaches for a hand tool when that is all that is needed.
Very nice project and documentation of it. What I like about your channel is that you just get it done without trying to sell me anything. I also like the mix of power and hand tools used, which I am terrible with and hope to be better using someday.
I appreciate that! My goal is to show what's possible and inspire people to go make stuff. I've talked about the use of power and hand tools before in a video. I used to use hand tools because I couldn't afford the power equivalent (jointer for example) but now I am incorporating more hand tool work because it's fun, and in some cases faster than power tools. They do require more practice to use well
I imagine it’s really hard to compete with the big woodworking channels but you are putting out some great content. Also, I think I’ll have to show my projects off to my wife more often 😂. Keep up the good work!
Thank you! That's so nice to hear. Someday my little channel will get noticed. I make it a point to involve my wife in projects 😁 but seriously, she has a better eye and validates when something looks off so I can fix it
Wow, thanks so much for your kind words. I had hoped to release a video once a month, at least, this year. This build took 7 weeks so I'm behind but I have a simpler build coming soon! I appreciate your support!
Nice build! I like that you showed different methods for jointing. Never even heard of that router method before. I’ve always used a table saw jointing jig but I recently acquired a track saw.
Awesome! Thanks for the feedback! Track saw is a good option for sure, especially for really long boards. For wide boards, using the router table is easier than a jointer, especially one of those tabletop jointers, because the bulk lays flat on the table and is well supported.
Amazing. I got into a little woodwork and got a new router etc during the world's first lockdown. Made a few things (as a complete amateur), but haven't made anything since. Your video has inspired me, albeit too advanced for me at this early stage. Now subscribed. Thank you!! 😊
@@keatonbeyerwoodworking Thank you so much. Ps. You're cabinet is unreal and I hope I gradually achieve anywhere near your skills. I loved your modesty too, saying that 'it's not a difficult job', and 'just to break it down in different parts'. Brilliant!! 👏👏👏👏👏👏
@@deem3767 thank you for the kind words! It's been a work in progress but ever project gets a little bit better as you gain new skills. But it's true, every step as an individual part isn't too hard, getting them all in order and done consistently is the trick!
Thank you Keaton. Good advice, and I will certainly keep that in mind, as looking at it as one complete run is daunting, but I totally understand what you are saying. I think you mentioned Oregon in your video. Hello from Ireland 😊🍻🍺@@keatonbeyerwoodworking
What a great build! Thank you for sharing details of the whole process. On doors, I thought the glass was to slide into the grooves just like a center panel for shaker doors, how did you end up with rabbets? I am still learning woodworking.
I did make what would be a shaker style door but without a center panel and after glue up used a rabbeting bit in my router to remove the backside of the material that made the groove to turn it into a dado. That way the glass can go into the backside of the doors and are secured with the stays and nails. In case the glass ever breaks and needs replacing I can take the stays out and replace it. You could skip all this and make the frame around the panel glass but if it does break then the replacement process would be to do what I did vs pulling stays and replacing. The likelihood of the glass breaking is low but this is a more proper way to do it vs permanent glass installation.
Never heard them called stays before! Been working making wood windows and doors for over thirty years we'd always call them stops ! Learn something everyday!
Good call out. I'll put some descriptions in to my next video. I only have a few. The main plane I use is a Stanley no. 5. That's the big one. The one I broke by dropping it is a Stanley Bailey no. 3.5.
@@keatonbeyerwoodworking Just watched a Rob Cosman video today and he was recommending the 5.5 as first size of hand plane. I guess I'm just collecting thoughts on what other skilled people like yourself are using.
@@kevinhilton8683 I love the 5. It's called the jack for a reason. It does it all, long enough to joint, short enough to smooth. Granted, it's worth getting a smoothing plane too. I have a 3.5 that I like and just got a 3, metal body, which I'm looking forward to cleaning up and using. I have a cheap buck bros setup as a scrub plane, it's a 4. That is great for rough work but lacks the finesse of a higher end brand. Now, I want an 8 for jointing because the 5 has limitations, in this video the boards were long and a longer plane would have helped me out to joint the boards. Ok, all that info and the real talk. Use what you have. The most important part is to get familiar with planes and practice. Once you build the muscle memory you can start branching out. Start with a 5 and get it used from a flea market, garage sale, Facebook, estate sale, whatever you can get. Just get one in good shape with low rust, clean it up, learn how to sharpen and adjust it, and get to work. I used to have some videos on planes but recently took them down because they were long winded, like this comment, and want to redo them. On to Rob, he knows what he's talking about but the 5.5 vs 5 is likely negligible. Probably a slightly bigger handle for a meatier paw and more weight, but more weight isn't always a good thing. Hope that helps and if it confused you more send me a message and I'd love to chat
Those boards warped when I ripped them and that caused problems downstream. If this wasn't for me I would have bought more wood but I rolled with it and did my best to assist the hinges to make them sit nicely. But they are a little warped by about 3/16. Not bad but I notice it. If I had made the doors smaller I could have used the same wood and cut a lot of that wall out. But they have not sagged or moved over time at least! Thanks for asking!
Keaton, great build and excellent step by step process video. You're both a craftsman and good communicator. One question that I am curious about. Did you have any stiles (door) bowing or warping once you built the doors? I'm super anxious about building large doors (and yes, they'll also have glass) and so I could use your advise if you had a moment and the interest. In any event, appreciate you and your work.
Thank you Scott! I appreciate the feedback! The stiles did bow a bit. But that was largely due to the tension in the board when I cut it. I had one board that wasn't fit for the job and it is apparent to me in the final build being about 3/16 off from top to bottom. It's not that big a deal and if you use European hinges like these you can adjust it so the doors still sit okay. The glass is flexible enough that it will be fine, especially if tempered which I suggest for doors. Had I more time and the drive I would have gone and bought another board and redone the doors so they were flatter and if this was for a client I definitely would have done that.
@@keatonbeyerwoodworking Keaton, really appreciate your reply! Thank you. I need to watch the bits of your video again where the board shifted due to tension as you were ripping the stiles... Because the process you then put them all through was super intriguing to me. When it comes to wood movement and thin strips of wood holding position, I'm a nervous nelly... Thanks a bunch!
@@scottbosworth349 oh gotcha, those really thin boards are called glass stays. The stays are very thin and flexible, so I cut them long and bent them into place, holding them in with the nails. The tension will help keep them tight and keep the glass in. We're talking only 1/64th long here, not much but enough. If they aren't long it's okay, the stays will work but rely more on the nails which will still hold just fine, the tension is just a little extra
@@keatonbeyerwoodworking Cool. The "thin strips of wood..." reference was connected to the rails and stiles. Because one of more of them released tension as you were ripping them down, and you then did a process of locking them (clamping) all together and sending them through the planer (and joiner?) again... This is where I lost you in the video and need to watch that part a few more times to help it sink in as to what you were doing and IF what you were doing was to straighten out the bowing that occurred from the tension release during the ripping of the rails and stiles. Thanks again, man. I am grateful for your replies and engagement. Super cool of you. Be well and keep making cool stuff!
You are seriously an underrated woodworking content creator on RUclips! Keep up the awesome work!!
Thank you Reece! I appreciate it. Glad you enjoyed the video, I'll have more out soon!
18:27 currently in the process of making glass cabinet doors, but was looking for a better way to rabbet out the back. I think this is the solution, thank you!
Awesome! Glad you found it helpful. I've done it other ways but found this to be the easiest to get everything to line up and the best way to do the joinery without adding complexity
Nice result - very inspiring - think I'll steal your ideas and try it for myself! I like all my power toys sorry tools but often wonder why some creators spend ages setting up power tools to do something that could be done easily with a hand tool. Good to see someone who reaches for a hand tool when that is all that is needed.
Awesome! I'm happy to hear you enjoyed the video. Man, hand tools are so versatile and much safer. I find myself using them more and more these days.
Beautiful work! Such a classic looking piece. Looking forward to your future projects.
Thank you!
Very nice project and documentation of it. What I like about your channel is that you just get it done without trying to sell me anything. I also like the mix of power and hand tools used, which I am terrible with and hope to be better using someday.
I appreciate that! My goal is to show what's possible and inspire people to go make stuff. I've talked about the use of power and hand tools before in a video. I used to use hand tools because I couldn't afford the power equivalent (jointer for example) but now I am incorporating more hand tool work because it's fun, and in some cases faster than power tools. They do require more practice to use well
I imagine it’s really hard to compete with the big woodworking channels but you are putting out some great content. Also, I think I’ll have to show my projects off to my wife more often 😂. Keep up the good work!
Thank you! That's so nice to hear. Someday my little channel will get noticed. I make it a point to involve my wife in projects 😁 but seriously, she has a better eye and validates when something looks off so I can fix it
Beautifully made and a pleasure to watch the process. Thanks for sharing I always really enjoy your videos, keep them coming please 🙂
Wow, thanks so much for your kind words. I had hoped to release a video once a month, at least, this year. This build took 7 weeks so I'm behind but I have a simpler build coming soon! I appreciate your support!
Nice build! I like that you showed different methods for jointing. Never even heard of that router method before. I’ve always used a table saw jointing jig but I recently acquired a track saw.
Awesome! Thanks for the feedback! Track saw is a good option for sure, especially for really long boards. For wide boards, using the router table is easier than a jointer, especially one of those tabletop jointers, because the bulk lays flat on the table and is well supported.
I really enjoy watching this video I loved every details that you explained thank you
I'm happy to hear that! Thanks for your comment, I appreciate you sharing that you enjoyed the video!
It turned out beautiful!
Thanks!
Amazing. I got into a little woodwork and got a new router etc during the world's first lockdown. Made a few things (as a complete amateur), but haven't made anything since. Your video has inspired me, albeit too advanced for me at this early stage. Now subscribed. Thank you!! 😊
That's awesome. It's comments like yours that make it worth sharing these projects. Good luck on your future projects!
@@keatonbeyerwoodworking Thank you so much. Ps. You're cabinet is unreal and I hope I gradually achieve anywhere near your skills. I loved your modesty too, saying that 'it's not a difficult job', and 'just to break it down in different parts'. Brilliant!! 👏👏👏👏👏👏
@@deem3767 thank you for the kind words! It's been a work in progress but ever project gets a little bit better as you gain new skills. But it's true, every step as an individual part isn't too hard, getting them all in order and done consistently is the trick!
Thank you Keaton. Good advice, and I will certainly keep that in mind, as looking at it as one complete run is daunting, but I totally understand what you are saying. I think you mentioned Oregon in your video. Hello from Ireland 😊🍻🍺@@keatonbeyerwoodworking
@@deem3767 cheers! 🍻
Very beautiful great job
Thank you! Cheers!
What a great build! Thank you for sharing details of the whole process.
On doors, I thought the glass was to slide into the grooves just like a center panel for shaker doors, how did you end up with rabbets? I am still learning woodworking.
I did make what would be a shaker style door but without a center panel and after glue up used a rabbeting bit in my router to remove the backside of the material that made the groove to turn it into a dado. That way the glass can go into the backside of the doors and are secured with the stays and nails. In case the glass ever breaks and needs replacing I can take the stays out and replace it. You could skip all this and make the frame around the panel glass but if it does break then the replacement process would be to do what I did vs pulling stays and replacing. The likelihood of the glass breaking is low but this is a more proper way to do it vs permanent glass installation.
Omg that was amazing work
Thank you!
Never heard them called stays before! Been working making wood windows and doors for over thirty years we'd always call them stops ! Learn something everyday!
That's interesting. We always called the fixed side stops and the removable side stays. But it could be a regional thing!
I'm new to woodworking... I have both of the saws .. what should I get next a planer or a router...?
Depends on which saws you have and what you make, but for furniture projects I'd get a planer before a router. Both are pretty essential though
Really like cabinet. I you could tell us what exact hand planes you're using when you're using them within the video it would be great.
Good call out. I'll put some descriptions in to my next video. I only have a few. The main plane I use is a Stanley no. 5. That's the big one. The one I broke by dropping it is a Stanley Bailey no. 3.5.
@@keatonbeyerwoodworking Just watched a Rob Cosman video today and he was recommending the 5.5 as first size of hand plane. I guess I'm just collecting thoughts on what other skilled people like yourself are using.
@@kevinhilton8683 I love the 5. It's called the jack for a reason. It does it all, long enough to joint, short enough to smooth. Granted, it's worth getting a smoothing plane too. I have a 3.5 that I like and just got a 3, metal body, which I'm looking forward to cleaning up and using. I have a cheap buck bros setup as a scrub plane, it's a 4. That is great for rough work but lacks the finesse of a higher end brand. Now, I want an 8 for jointing because the 5 has limitations, in this video the boards were long and a longer plane would have helped me out to joint the boards. Ok, all that info and the real talk. Use what you have. The most important part is to get familiar with planes and practice. Once you build the muscle memory you can start branching out. Start with a 5 and get it used from a flea market, garage sale, Facebook, estate sale, whatever you can get. Just get one in good shape with low rust, clean it up, learn how to sharpen and adjust it, and get to work. I used to have some videos on planes but recently took them down because they were long winded, like this comment, and want to redo them. On to Rob, he knows what he's talking about but the 5.5 vs 5 is likely negligible. Probably a slightly bigger handle for a meatier paw and more weight, but more weight isn't always a good thing. Hope that helps and if it confused you more send me a message and I'd love to chat
Very nice! Any consternation over keeping such large doors flat?
Those boards warped when I ripped them and that caused problems downstream. If this wasn't for me I would have bought more wood but I rolled with it and did my best to assist the hinges to make them sit nicely. But they are a little warped by about 3/16. Not bad but I notice it. If I had made the doors smaller I could have used the same wood and cut a lot of that wall out. But they have not sagged or moved over time at least! Thanks for asking!
Keaton, great build and excellent step by step process video. You're both a craftsman and good communicator. One question that I am curious about. Did you have any stiles (door) bowing or warping once you built the doors? I'm super anxious about building large doors (and yes, they'll also have glass) and so I could use your advise if you had a moment and the interest. In any event, appreciate you and your work.
Thank you Scott! I appreciate the feedback! The stiles did bow a bit. But that was largely due to the tension in the board when I cut it. I had one board that wasn't fit for the job and it is apparent to me in the final build being about 3/16 off from top to bottom. It's not that big a deal and if you use European hinges like these you can adjust it so the doors still sit okay. The glass is flexible enough that it will be fine, especially if tempered which I suggest for doors. Had I more time and the drive I would have gone and bought another board and redone the doors so they were flatter and if this was for a client I definitely would have done that.
@@keatonbeyerwoodworking Keaton, really appreciate your reply! Thank you. I need to watch the bits of your video again where the board shifted due to tension as you were ripping the stiles... Because the process you then put them all through was super intriguing to me. When it comes to wood movement and thin strips of wood holding position, I'm a nervous nelly... Thanks a bunch!
@@scottbosworth349 oh gotcha, those really thin boards are called glass stays. The stays are very thin and flexible, so I cut them long and bent them into place, holding them in with the nails. The tension will help keep them tight and keep the glass in. We're talking only 1/64th long here, not much but enough. If they aren't long it's okay, the stays will work but rely more on the nails which will still hold just fine, the tension is just a little extra
@@keatonbeyerwoodworking Cool. The "thin strips of wood..." reference was connected to the rails and stiles. Because one of more of them released tension as you were ripping them down, and you then did a process of locking them (clamping) all together and sending them through the planer (and joiner?) again... This is where I lost you in the video and need to watch that part a few more times to help it sink in as to what you were doing and IF what you were doing was to straighten out the bowing that occurred from the tension release during the ripping of the rails and stiles. Thanks again, man. I am grateful for your replies and engagement. Super cool of you. Be well and keep making cool stuff!
08:11
Ah yes, I too am familiar with the small shop crawl of shame.
Ha! The most embarrassing part was I had to do it more than once. Next time I'll move my wife's car out of the shop, ahem, I mean garage.