Just to let you know, the CX line of amplifiers from Kicker do not need a line output converter. They already have one built in and can except up to 40 volts of high-level input.
I did see that and you have to set up the amp for high or low level input. Using the LOC made integrating between the head unit and the amp pretty easy though without having to cut into any wiring harness. There maybe a way to not use a LOC but this way made sense to me.
Denny, did you replace your door speakers? (I didn’t look for a previous video) or did you maintain stock? I have a 15 Silverado with Bose and was looking to add just the stealthbox, amp and LOC as the stock speakers already sound pretty damn good.
Glad you found the other videos! My truck didn't have the Bose system in it and where I mounted the amp is where the Bose amp sits i believe. I will say though I was blown away at how much better the system sounded when I upgraded the dash and the front doors even without the help of an amplifier. Might be something to consider.
@@dennysdrives1020 I THINK there is a Bose sub that sits in that space but I could be totally wrong. After looking online I MAY go the route of SKAR as I could get a whole setup for the cost of just the stealthbox 🥲. I used to run Alpine Type R’s in my car so may also look to see if they have a shallow mount for under the back seat as well.
TY for this Vid!! I didn't know JL had a console Sub! I have a 2014 Silverado LT with a Alpine iLX-F411 and I've been wanting to add some bass. I don't want to lose all of my rear seat storage, so I thought my only option was a single sub under the rear seat. Question: If I run this Console Sub and 1 Sub under the rear seat, is that the same as having 2 subs under the rear seat? I would assume so, but I don't know much about audio aside from the very basics. Your thoughts?
Yeah the placement doesn't matter because all the amp knows is how much power it needs to send to the sub. Here is an idea. You start with the console sub and 1 amp see if you like that if you want more then you can add a second amp and sub for the rear seat. Since the console sub is in an enclosure and right beside you it sounds louder than the same sub as if it were tucked under the rear seat. If you know you want 2 subs off the bat. You need to find a similar rated sub as the console one, power and ohms, and then you need to figure out how you want to wire the 2 together (i.e. in series or parallel which will change the ohms rating). Once you know that you can pick an amp to power both. Hope that helps and thanks for watching!!
Having one sub up front and one in the rear is going to create a different sound profile. The one in the back will produce more low end bass and the one in the front is going to produce less low-end bass. The volume levels are also going to be different between the two. So I would not recommend running two different sub locations unless you were to divide up the frequencies so that the front sub played upper bass and the rear sub played lower bass.
One set is for the front channel and the other is for the rear. This way i can still use the fader from front to back on the stock headhunt. The amp can accept one set of RCA's and power all the speakers but you loose the fade capability from the head unit.
I did not run them to the individual speaker. The wire I ran from the amp goes to the line output converter wiring harness. The harness T's into the factory wiring. The signal goes from the head unit to the line output converter (via the harness) to the amp (via the RCA cords) then back up to the LOC harness via the speaker wire. It then gets sent to the speakers using the factory wires that are in place. To boil it down we are hi-jacking the signal from the head unit to the speakers (to make it louder with the amp) and we are using the LOC to help get the signal to the amp. I hope this doesn't confuse you. Let me know if you have other questions.
Just to let you know, the CX line of amplifiers from Kicker do not need a line output converter. They already have one built in and can except up to 40 volts of high-level input.
I did see that and you have to set up the amp for high or low level input. Using the LOC made integrating between the head unit and the amp pretty easy though without having to cut into any wiring harness. There maybe a way to not use a LOC but this way made sense to me.
Denny, did you replace your door speakers? (I didn’t look for a previous video) or did you maintain stock? I have a 15 Silverado with Bose and was looking to add just the stealthbox, amp and LOC as the stock speakers already sound pretty damn good.
Update lol: just saw your previous videos. 😅
Glad you found the other videos! My truck didn't have the Bose system in it and where I mounted the amp is where the Bose amp sits i believe. I will say though I was blown away at how much better the system sounded when I upgraded the dash and the front doors even without the help of an amplifier. Might be something to consider.
@@dennysdrives1020 I THINK there is a Bose sub that sits in that space but I could be totally wrong. After looking online I MAY go the route of SKAR as I could get a whole setup for the cost of just the stealthbox 🥲. I used to run Alpine Type R’s in my car so may also look to see if they have a shallow mount for under the back seat as well.
TY for this Vid!! I didn't know JL had a console Sub! I have a 2014 Silverado LT with a Alpine iLX-F411 and I've been wanting to add some bass. I don't want to lose all of my rear seat storage, so I thought my only option was a single sub under the rear seat.
Question: If I run this Console Sub and 1 Sub under the rear seat, is that the same as having 2 subs under the rear seat? I would assume so, but I don't know much about audio aside from the very basics. Your thoughts?
Yeah the placement doesn't matter because all the amp knows is how much power it needs to send to the sub. Here is an idea. You start with the console sub and 1 amp see if you like that if you want more then you can add a second amp and sub for the rear seat. Since the console sub is in an enclosure and right beside you it sounds louder than the same sub as if it were tucked under the rear seat. If you know you want 2 subs off the bat. You need to find a similar rated sub as the console one, power and ohms, and then you need to figure out how you want to wire the 2 together (i.e. in series or parallel which will change the ohms rating). Once you know that you can pick an amp to power both. Hope that helps and thanks for watching!!
@@dennysdrives1020 see, i get lost on the parallell and ohms part lol!!
Having one sub up front and one in the rear is going to create a different sound profile. The one in the back will produce more low end bass and the one in the front is going to produce less low-end bass. The volume levels are also going to be different between the two. So I would not recommend running two different sub locations unless you were to divide up the frequencies so that the front sub played upper bass and the rear sub played lower bass.
Was the door chime amplified also?
Yes the door chime does get amplified after doing this.
Let's hear it!
Amazing video🙌🏽
Thank you 🙌
where did you ground the amp to ?
@12:36 It is a short tun to one of the studs that holds the seats in place.
What is the second set of rca’s for at the loc?
One set is for the front channel and the other is for the rear. This way i can still use the fader from front to back on the stock headhunt. The amp can accept one set of RCA's and power all the speakers but you loose the fade capability from the head unit.
Did you run speaker wires from the amp to each individual speaker?
I did not run them to the individual speaker. The wire I ran from the amp goes to the line output converter wiring harness. The harness T's into the factory wiring. The signal goes from the head unit to the line output converter (via the harness) to the amp (via the RCA cords) then back up to the LOC harness via the speaker wire. It then gets sent to the speakers using the factory wires that are in place. To boil it down we are hi-jacking the signal from the head unit to the speakers (to make it louder with the amp) and we are using the LOC to help get the signal to the amp. I hope this doesn't confuse you. Let me know if you have other questions.
Why don’t we ever hear it
Copyright laws :(
Put kicker IQ1000.5
That is a pretty sweet amp. Might have to use that for a future project!..... if i can find one haha
That is outdated technology. It cannot handle higher voltages of modern vehicles and the phone app to control it is now outdated.
Is this a parody account?
So you've seen this person on a different RUclips account?
All that and you never played the dang thing for us… 👎