Not a rust issue, but my dad taught me about using steam to take dents out of wood stocks. If ya'll haven't talked about this sort of thing, it might make a good episode. Thanks for this one!
It works pretty well. I just use a regular household iron and a cloth soaked in water for larger dents, and a soldering iron with a soaked cleaning patch for smaller ones.
Mark Novak has a few videos where he shows that. Rust blueing, too... you can convert that orange rust back into black iron oxide with steam or boiling water, and then clean it up with steel wool.
The iron technique is actually what they teach if you take classes at SDI. I was surprised it worked! We had to make a wooden stock from a wooden template and the iron on wood dents was a lifesaver for that project!
Wouldn't worry too much about it. It was pronounced Hops by those whom used it and those whom sold up until not that very long ago. I put it in the same category as Jagwire vs. Jag u are. Or foyer vs. foyay or even the ever popular, mini ball is. Minyay. If it matters to somebody, they need to get a life. Happy shooting!
I’m not an English scholar but my mother is. She is 83 and I am 62. She STILL corrects my grammar! Annoying, but appreciated none the less. I lived abroad for decades and learned several languages so I feel I have some pertinent experience with the way we mispronounce things, especially foreign words and names. Names are weird but Americans tend to screw up the pronunciation of anything unfamiliar. I think the double “P” in Hoppe’s make the “O” a short vowel and the apostrophe simply shows possession of the recipe by the family Hoppe. If you want to pronounce it like Hoppies, go ahead, but you sound like a hick. BTW, I’m an Infantry vet and a staunch 2A guy so don’t start with the nerdy insult BS. I’ll go toe to toe…
Hunting in the northern adirondacks in snow etc. Let's just say I wipe them down when putting it back in the case at the truck. Get home take them out put them by heater vent for a bit. Than heavy coat of oil and wipe off excess.
That's a good way to preserve it, however you should remove it from the wood , if it has wood, to prevent the oil from entering the wood, ironically gun oil in wood causes degradation, at a minimum store in barrel down at all times to protect the wood, plastic probably doesn't matter other than it will gum up over time
@@brianhoxworth3881 Is there a reaction with the copper, oxide, and steel or is the point that the copper is soft and won't scratch or deform the steel surface of the gun?
@jameshoney2506 it won't scratch the surface, copper is much softer. It's safe. Larger coverage of light rust can also be removed with "chore boy" all copper brillo pad and a little oil. Always test a area first if in doubt.
How did that 1100 turn out 11 yrs ago? Thank you Steve. For all the years of advice and education. I'm using your video to teach someone to do it the right way. I perchased four long guns months back off a neighbor. All bought in 1970s Az. Taken to Alaska and forgotten until 2012. Winchester 94. 30-30 in original box with Red string tags still attached. Judging from the loading gate and feed ramp this rifle has never had a round outside the factory in it. Also a Remington BDL 300 win mag. In box with tags. Scuffed up stock but not used. A Westernfeild 12ga M550AB0. 30IN Full choke barrel. I immediately recognized as a Mossberg action sure enough the parts are interchangeable. Very lite serface rust on the three. The four was definitely used and put away wet. Found it on bare tile floor under a pu truck load of old clothing. Fortunately nothing bent or broken but definitely scuffed up gouged up. Had a lite chain under it that pressed into the pump and stock. If removed may cause more damage. So trimmed dangling chain off. May leave it as a conversation starter and reminder as it functions great and shoots straight as an arrow. Keep up the great work. My student says you have a new subscriber.
@@redcat9436 The stuff I bought is not regular steel wool, but rather STAINLESS steel wool. Brownells advertises it for rust removal without damaging the blueing.
I think one of the first Brownells videos I watched was of you teaching some removal of rust from a shotgun. Awesome video. And I'm not gonna lie that first vid was good but it got me kinda sleepy 😅
You like ballistol because of the name, ballistic therfore it must be really good, heck the government probably uses it on their guns, it's just marketing any common gun oil ,& actually 3 in 1 oil is best
I keep desiccant packets from every package we get and my wife laughs and has turned into a game where she throws them at me LOL, and they all end up in the gun safe or ammo storage places lol it helps a lot.
I once got a good deal on a 1963 manufactured double-trigger Steyr-Mannlicher 270 bolt action rifle because the previous owner's wife poured Coca-cola over it while it sat in a soft gun case. The resulting pitting still has me pondering the wisdom of drinking the stuff every day.
There has been a great deal of research in how the Vikings kept their ship spikes from rusting the ocean. What they found is the iron was quenched in whale oil. Someone tested all the oils to see if there was another oil with the same bonding to iron, he found Olive Oil. It is time to start testing this on gun barrels at normal bluing temps.
I am learning how to take care of my handgun. I watched this video and I'm unsure what kind of wool he said that was. It sounded like he said 4ox wool?
Hello Steve from Brownell's. Question: Are you using Hoppe's No. 9 solvent in the video or Hoppe's Gun oil? I have used the solvent before and it took off some bluing off from a gun.
0000 steel wool will absolutely fade bluing. Ask me how I know. If you’re doing a large area it might not be as noticeable but if on a small area, with pristine bluing right next to it, you WILL notice even after a very quick rubbing.
Any oil will do, but CLP is best. OOOO steel wool will work, but OOOO brass wool is better. Don’t rub too hard, or you can remove bluing you don’t want to remove. If your gun gets wet on a hunt, remove the action from the stock at the first opportunity and wipe off the moisture and wipe down with oil or a rust preventative like Birchwood-Casey Barricade or equivalent from Remington. Hunting gun bores don’t need to be cleaned often, but at least run an oil soaked patch down the bore followed by a dry patch at the end of the season. Then take the pressure off your firing pin spring of bolt guns before putting away until next year.
Always be careful with steel wool. The tiny steel fibers get into everything. They will stick to anything oily or sticky or magnetic. Especially on things you don't want them on for some reason.
There are products out there specifically made to leave a light film on guns for long term storage. I believe that Birchwood Casey makes a product called Barricade that works along those lines.
cheaper way is to get you a wax commode ring and use a hairdryer to warm the metal and wood first and apply just like waxing your car...great for long term storage
When a customer would allow a weapon to badly rust through sheer neglect, then bringing it to me for refinishing, I was always amazed how ignorant some people were. Especially when they "helped " by attacking the rust with sandpaper prior to coming to my shop. I'd then tell them that thanks to their efforts, the cost of refinishing just tripled. 😠
I had a guy wanting me to completely over hual a 1925 22 pistol got it looking like new easy part the ejector rod was worn so bad it wouldn't cycle the Cylinder. As a whar would happen well at 1 foot away from the paper target I hit 1 time out of 5. I told him put it in a display case never shoot it.
a little steam and that light rust will turn back into bluing...a clothing steamer works wonders... putting oil on it only coats the outside rust while in under it keeps on rusting...bright spots will happen using just oil and steel wool one would be better off using a pure copper penny to remove the rust...
Clean it in between steel wool use / as the rust starts breaking loose , with a rag using laquer thinner . It will take ALOT of the junk off the surface and reduce any undue abrasion . Final clean with the laquer thinner, then oil heavy .
Stainless isn’t rust proof. And I’ve yet to find a good over-under or side-by-side shotgun made in stainless. And to be honest, I wouldn’t want one anyway. Blued guns aren’t for everyone. They take more time and care to maintain, which is part of the allure and enjoyment
I wipe down my rifle once i get home even if I don't give it a proper cleaning. Problem prevented. Green soft scouring pads can also do wonders without being too abrasive.
This is why I spray paint my firearms. Years of spending more time and effort removing rust every year than it takes me to remove a rattle can paint job from a gun. I know some guns you won’t paint, for those I HIGHLY recommend one of those silicone gun socks. That’s been a lifesaver.
@@timrobinson6573 Seek professional help, Mr. Robinson. You seem to be rambling incoherently. We have never met before, nor have we spoken to each other. Not to mention, I have never said this comment in the past as you seem to think. Yet you presume to insinuate that I somehow pilfered something from someone? Clearly you are trolling the comments section purely for harassment. Move along child. The adults are talking. Take care my friend.
The love the inexhaustible walking encyclopedias of gun knowledge you have at Brownells. Well done once again.
There's another Brownells video very similar to this one with Steve's 11 year old younger brother lol.
Not a rust issue, but my dad taught me about using steam to take dents out of wood stocks. If ya'll haven't talked about this sort of thing, it might make a good episode. Thanks for this one!
It works pretty well.
I just use a regular household iron and a cloth soaked in water for larger dents, and a soldering iron with a soaked cleaning patch for smaller ones.
Mark Novak has a few videos where he shows that. Rust blueing, too... you can convert that orange rust back into black iron oxide with steam or boiling water, and then clean it up with steel wool.
The iron technique is actually what they teach if you take classes at SDI. I was surprised it worked! We had to make a wooden stock from a wooden template and the iron on wood dents was a lifesaver for that project!
What about the copper penny or copper wool?
I have had good results using a copper coin to remove light rust.
In olden days, Cosmoline was used as a coating for storage of firearms to prevent rust.
simple video, but good advice. this sort of simple advice and tips is why I love this channel. It may be well known to some, but not all.
Ive been calling it "hops" all this time.
Wouldn't worry too much about it. It was pronounced Hops by those whom used it and those whom sold up until not that very long ago. I put it in the same category as Jagwire vs. Jag u are. Or foyer vs. foyay or even the ever popular, mini ball is. Minyay.
If it matters to somebody, they need to get a life. Happy shooting!
Many left off the "e" over the years. I've been calling it "Hoppys" over 60 years, though.
Hoppe's just as it is spelled. Capital "E" sound. That is why there is an "E" in the name. {How did your post get any "likes"? 🤕
@@gusloader123oh shush, Guslo Ader
I’m not an English scholar but my mother is. She is 83 and I am 62. She STILL corrects my grammar! Annoying, but appreciated none the less. I lived abroad for decades and learned several languages so I feel I have some pertinent experience with the way we mispronounce things, especially foreign words and names. Names are weird but Americans tend to screw up the pronunciation of anything unfamiliar. I think the double “P” in Hoppe’s make the “O” a short vowel and the apostrophe simply shows possession of the recipe by the family Hoppe. If you want to pronounce it like Hoppies, go ahead, but you sound like a hick. BTW, I’m an Infantry vet and a staunch 2A guy so don’t start with the nerdy insult BS. I’ll go toe to toe…
I like that there is what looks like an AT4 just chilling in the safe.
😅
Never no when you might need a launcher, but when you need it you'll be glad you have it.
USA🇺🇲🎉🎆🇺🇲🇺🇲🦅🎆🎇🦅🎇🎇🎆🎉🇺🇲
Unfortunately probably just the launcher but still cool
I've uses a bronze brush or a Chore Boy copper scouring pad with oil.
Hunting in the northern adirondacks in snow etc. Let's just say I wipe them down when putting it back in the case at the truck. Get home take them out put them by heater vent for a bit. Than heavy coat of oil and wipe off excess.
That's a good way to preserve it, however you should remove it from the wood , if it has wood, to prevent the oil from entering the wood, ironically gun oil in wood causes degradation, at a minimum store in barrel down at all times to protect the wood, plastic probably doesn't matter other than it will gum up over time
I have used some 4-O steel wool, lightly on guns and knives, with good success. Oil after use.
You know I was just needing this exact video as a new gun owner
A old copper penny and a bit of oil works pretty good.
It has to be a solid copper penny.. or get a piece of solid copper from a machine shop
What do you do with the copper?
@jameshoney2506 you use the edge of it with the oil and scrape the rust off
@@brianhoxworth3881 Is there a reaction with the copper, oxide, and steel or is the point that the copper is soft and won't scratch or deform the steel surface of the gun?
@jameshoney2506 it won't scratch the surface, copper is much softer. It's safe. Larger coverage of light rust can also be removed with "chore boy" all copper brillo pad and a little oil. Always test a area first if in doubt.
Also watched a guy use oil and an old copper pre 81 penny to take rust off a gun barrel too. 👍
I've got three old saws that I'm going to try using copper sheet metal, I'm looking for a particular patina
How did that 1100 turn out 11 yrs ago? Thank you Steve. For all the years of advice and education. I'm using your video to teach someone to do it the right way. I perchased four long guns months back off a neighbor. All bought in 1970s Az. Taken to Alaska and forgotten until 2012. Winchester 94. 30-30 in original box with Red string tags still attached. Judging from the loading gate and feed ramp this rifle has never had a round outside the factory in it. Also a Remington BDL 300 win mag. In box with tags. Scuffed up stock but not used. A Westernfeild 12ga M550AB0. 30IN Full choke barrel. I immediately recognized as a Mossberg action sure enough the parts are interchangeable. Very lite serface rust on the three. The four was definitely used and put away wet. Found it on bare tile floor under a pu truck load of old clothing. Fortunately nothing bent or broken but definitely scuffed up gouged up. Had a lite chain under it that pressed into the pump and stock. If removed may cause more damage. So trimmed dangling chain off. May leave it as a conversation starter and reminder as it functions great and shoots straight as an arrow. Keep up the great work. My student says you have a new subscriber.
I have used that stainless steel wool for a lot of years now. I'm surprised that Steve didn't mention it, since I got it from Brownell's.
He made a video about removing rust about a decade and a half ago and he used it then too
Steve mentions using 0000 steel wool at 1:23.
@@redcat9436
The stuff I bought is not regular steel wool, but rather STAINLESS steel wool. Brownells advertises it for rust removal without damaging the blueing.
I think one of the first Brownells videos I watched was of you teaching some removal of rust from a shotgun. Awesome video. And I'm not gonna lie that first vid was good but it got me kinda sleepy 😅
Excellent video! Thank you.
I like Ballistol oil. Frog 🐸 Lube is great too.
You like ballistol because of the name, ballistic therfore it must be really good, heck the government probably uses it on their guns, it's just marketing any common gun oil ,& actually 3 in 1 oil is best
Great and informative video. I have to do this exact thing with my mom’s .22 later. It’s like you guys are prophetic.
I like your last video where you use some Flitz to help polish it off too. Great job!!!
I keep desiccant packets from every package we get and my wife laughs and has turned into a game where she throws them at me LOL, and they all end up in the gun safe or ammo storage places lol it helps a lot.
If they are "used" up won't you be actually adding moisture? I get the type where has color beads...
Or just buy some you can get a gallon can for drying flowers from the craft store $20. Or spend the rest of your life saving little tiny packets
This technique works well on some of my Sig X-Macro magazines. Curiously only a couple of my 9 mags have needed this.
Thanks
thanks
My grandfather taught everyone to use motor oil and soft steel wood. That method has always worked 👍
Non detergent motor oil is probably the best
You can use any oil? How do you clean the inside of the barrel when it rusts?
Blue wonder with 0000 steel wool is a good ootion as well. A good carbon, lead, and coopper fowling remover as well.
I once got a good deal on a 1963 manufactured double-trigger Steyr-Mannlicher 270 bolt action rifle because the previous owner's wife poured Coca-cola over it while it sat in a soft gun case. The resulting pitting still has me pondering the wisdom of drinking the stuff every day.
There has been a great deal of research in how the Vikings kept their ship spikes from rusting the ocean. What they found is the iron was quenched in whale oil. Someone tested all the oils to see if there was another oil with the same bonding to iron, he found Olive Oil. It is time to start testing this on gun barrels at normal bluing temps.
Extra Virgin or regular?
Only extra virgin is good enough for my firearms
@@GodGunsGills The closest to seal or whale, whichever that is.
Modern black powder shooters have been using olive oil in place of bear grease. I think they call it sweet oil.
Thanks Steve!
Seems simple - thanks for the tip.
3-1 and a cloth works good as well
will desiccant packets in your case help prevent rusting if you live in a humid area?
I am learning how to take care of my handgun. I watched this video and I'm unsure what kind of wool he said that was. It sounded like he said 4ox wool?
So I’m pretty sure he said OTT. It’s a form of measurement. I’ve heard people use it for electrical wire. Maybe it’s just how abrasive it rates?
Hello Steve from Brownell's. Question: Are you using Hoppe's No. 9 solvent in the video or Hoppe's Gun oil? I have used the solvent before and it took off some bluing off from a gun.
Oil
0000 steel wool will absolutely fade bluing. Ask me how I know. If you’re doing a large area it might not be as noticeable but if on a small area, with pristine bluing right next to it, you WILL notice even after a very quick rubbing.
I understand there is copper wool also, which will take off the rust, but not the bluing.
Is Hoppe's #9 a rust preventative/ corrosion inhibitor?
Thank you for sharing!!!
Those fuzzy soft case are thebwort at attracting water
Any oil will do, but CLP is best. OOOO steel wool will work, but OOOO brass wool is better. Don’t rub too hard, or you can remove bluing you don’t want to remove. If your gun gets wet on a hunt, remove the action from the stock at the first opportunity and wipe off the moisture and wipe down with oil or a rust preventative like Birchwood-Casey Barricade or equivalent from Remington. Hunting gun bores don’t need to be cleaned often, but at least run an oil soaked patch down the bore followed by a dry patch at the end of the season. Then take the pressure off your firing pin spring of bolt guns before putting away until next year.
You can do a rattle can job on your rifles to help protect them
Why is the gun community the only place that says rattle can? The rest of the world says spray paint.
@@timrobinson6573 The world does not need to conform to your perception of reality, Mr. Robinson.
Now kindly move along my friend.
I think I’d rather live with a little rust on my Winchester 94 than what it would look like with spray paint
My green AR never rusts. Yes, I used Rustolium!
True words of wisdom!
Dang took me a min to get to the comments, anyway thank you for simple instructions and the way you covered everything. Helped me alot
Did you ever use the aluminum foil from the C-rat John Wayne bars to remove the light rust? Of course break free was involved as well.
Always be careful with steel wool. The tiny steel fibers get into everything. They will stick to anything oily or sticky or magnetic. Especially on things you don't want them on for some reason.
IMPORTANT!!! Only use 0000 steel wool
You actually sell it on the website, is it better than hardware store steel wool?
Thanks.
I've got a Wather PK380 and I just find out that it has rust on the slider and need to know how can I get it off and make it look like new again?
Use a #2 lead pencil directly on the rust spots wiping the area with a dry cloth until all the rust is removed .
Thank you, will try this.
I need to remove rust from 40 year old realistic prop guns, and I'm worried about removing patina from the guns. Will this process work on them?
I have a 24 year old 870 Express, it rust's just looking at it.
Ended up just painting it, problem fixed.
Is that a 9mm at-4 practice launcher in the safe behind the presenter?
I heard some people use spray car wax to prevent rust or wipe the gun down with an oily rag gun oil on it
There are products out there specifically made to leave a light film on guns for long term storage. I believe that Birchwood Casey makes a product called Barricade that works along those lines.
cheaper way is to get you a wax commode ring and use a hairdryer to warm the metal and wood first and apply just like waxing your car...great for long term storage
I thought it was Steve that showed me the trick with the pre-certain year penny
I believe its pre-1982. pennies after that point are almost entirely zinc rather than copper.
@superrad1659 thank you, I have one in my cleaning kit, just couldn't remember the year lol
@@psycopaintball22 👍
Pre 1982, we posted it in a short Caleb did a few years ago.
What kind of steel wool is that?
Steve, Big 45 removes rust but NOT bluing. It is better than steel wool.
"Nevrdull" works very good for taking rust off firearms.
Stainless steel wool works great and will not remove bluing.
BIG 45 FRONTIER METAL CLEANER
Put Ballistol on it; let it stand overnight, and wipe rust off.
What about the penny trick?
I payed 40 Pesos to see a woman in Tijuana do the penny trick.
What if you have rust/patina on you nickel plated finish?
What specific type of steel wool did he say?
0000 steel wool.
@ thank you
What do you do with a stainless steel 1911 that won’t stop taking on a light rust no matter what you do or how you oil it?
Metal polish like mother or Maguires metal polish.
can i use olive oil?
Big45 is far far far better than any steel wool. Big 45 is the only thing used for rust removal in the shop I work at.
What is Big 45?
Where do I get 4/0 steel wool?
Paint prep aisle of most hardware stores
A little oil and a lead pencil dose pretty good.
When a customer would allow a weapon to badly rust through sheer neglect, then bringing it to me for refinishing, I was always amazed how ignorant some people were. Especially when they "helped " by attacking the rust with sandpaper prior to coming to my shop. I'd then tell them that thanks to their efforts, the cost of refinishing just tripled. 😠
Sometimes they are inherited like this, genius.
I had a guy wanting me to completely over hual a 1925 22 pistol got it looking like new easy part the ejector rod was worn so bad it wouldn't cycle the Cylinder. As a whar would happen well at 1 foot away from the paper target I hit 1 time out of 5. I told him put it in a display case never shoot it.
Popsicle stick and WD40 works pretty well.
I always set my firearms in front of my dehumidifier, letting that dry air dry them out. 👌
"What you call patina is oil-soaked rust." - Mark Novak
Forox steel wool. Noted.
You time these to coincide with my problems don’t you? Suss
They have a team of Brownell's gremlins checking our closets. Haha
My piece gets a little bit from sweat while carrying.
wear rubber or nitrile gloves when working with Kroil. It's good stuff, but it's not good to get it in contact with your skin.
When u say 4-0 , you mean 0000?
a little steam and that light rust will turn back into bluing...a clothing steamer works wonders... putting oil on it only coats the outside rust while in under it keeps on rusting...bright spots will happen using just oil and steel wool one would be better off using a pure copper penny to remove the rust...
Clean it in between steel wool use / as the rust starts breaking loose , with a rag using laquer thinner . It will take ALOT of the junk off the surface and reduce any undue abrasion . Final clean with the laquer thinner, then oil heavy .
It's why you buy stainless , removing rust and re-bluing gets old. For lots of rust soak in lime kool aid overnight , then wipe off, and oil, done..
Stainless isn’t rust proof. And I’ve yet to find a good over-under or side-by-side shotgun made in stainless. And to be honest, I wouldn’t want one anyway. Blued guns aren’t for everyone. They take more time and care to maintain, which is part of the allure and enjoyment
Lime kool aid= artificial flavoring, dye, water, and sugar. Yeah, that sounds like a brilliant idea.
I like to spray paint all my guns to prevent them from rusting!
Like many of the tips this goes beyond guns.
I wipe down my rifle once i get home even if I don't give it a proper cleaning. Problem prevented. Green soft scouring pads can also do wonders without being too abrasive.
What do you wipe them down with?
What do you wipe it down with?
I Had A Little Rust On My Gun I Took A Toothbrush Brushed It Off and Applied Gun Oil
Keep 'em oily.
Is no one going to acknowledge the AT-4 in the vault?
This is why I spray paint my firearms. Years of spending more time and effort removing rust every year than it takes me to remove a rattle can paint job from a gun.
I know some guns you won’t paint, for those I HIGHLY recommend one of those silicone gun socks. That’s been a lifesaver.
Just a casual AT4 sitting in the safe...
Glocks rule sigs drool, sig p365 literally drools rust
What?
What are you doing to your Sig bro?
Okay fan boi
I prefer to boil smaller items. Converts the rust then just use steel wool to remove it.
When hunting in cold I don't bring my rifle indoors
How is there an AT4 in the safe hahhaha
My gun gets belly sweat on it😭🤣
I live near the ocean and the salt in the air is killing me !
What is that in the gun safe? Lol
::Gazes at Dan Wesson and their hammers with a side eye stare::
IYKYK.
Stay classy my friends.
Do you have anything original to say or do you just communicate in internet jokes that someone else came up with?
@@timrobinson6573 Seek professional help, Mr. Robinson. You seem to be rambling incoherently.
We have never met before, nor have we spoken to each other. Not to mention, I have never said this comment in the past as you seem to think. Yet you presume to insinuate that I somehow pilfered something from someone?
Clearly you are trolling the comments section purely for harassment.
Move along child. The adults are talking.
Take care my friend.
@@BertShackleforddropped your fedora
Great video the way i do it is to use a ball of kitchen foil and use this to gently rub the affected area hope that might help someone out .
Simonize.
If you are proactive, wipe it down at the end of each day of using it, I have not had rust on my firearms for decades…..