The TCM puts out a small reference voltage on the backup light bulb power circuit. When the vehicle is not in reverse, the TCM expects this voltage to be pulled to ground through the closed windings of the bulbs. If the bulbs are blown, the wrong style, or the circuit has a problem, the TCM assumes the vehicle is in reverse.
HI SCANNER DANNER, I’m in New Jersey, how can I book an appointment with you for my genesis coupe v6? I’ve been getting an off and on p0014 code for 2 years but the car runs great with 267,000 miles. Please help.
I went thru this on a 15 versa after pulling my hair out I just happened to notice the tail lights didn't quite look the same so after a close up inspection ii noticed the passenger side looked like shattered glass on an inner layer not the outside lens.... weirdest crap Ive ever seen. I thought no way it can't be..... Yes I went to the local pull a part and got one put it in then cleared the code we drove it to get parts n food ect ect, for a week and the money light never came back on and still hasn't 3 years later. I been a mechanic going on 39 years now and I have learned that a tech will never stop learning in this field. Thanks Scanner Danner for your videos sometimes this old timer needs help in these space ships on wheels!!!
@@Tek_Nician Well glad I'm not alone ..... These new cars are ridiculous the obvious is never obvious ya gotta think outside the box least for me. Back the day stuff was way more straight forward now I'm finding a trans input speed sensor causing a code for a bad cam sensor..... Ya I think it's time to retire while I'm still sane lol.
This video just saved me at least $5,000. Took my Versa to the dealer and they said it needed a full transmission replacement. I watched this video and connected the dots to the after market backup camera I had installed. The knuckleheads who installed the camera did a terrible job and left the wire open to shorting out. A quick repair of their work, and the car is not throwing the error anymore. Thank you, thank you, thank you for posting this.
Just had a friend come by with a P0705 code active, and we replaced the range sensor. Code was still active after the repair, but after watching your video, we found the connector to the left rear tail-light to have spread pins and one of the pins arcing. After fixing the connector, everything works as intended. Thank you for the insight 🤘
Just started the video. Had one of these a couple months ago with the same code. The one I was working on needed the tailights replaced. There is a circut in I think the drivers side tailight that gets corroded in these when the tailights crack and cause transmission range sensor codes. It's weird. That's what the fix was for the one I did though. Also note they don't 100% have to be visibly cracked to have corrosion on that chip. Old bulbs cause it too. Edit* finally got to the point in the video with the bulb. Yes the bulb not making contact will short that circut and trigger that code. You had it right.
@@Exar46 I almost forgot that part and thought I screwed up writing the comment out. It has been awhile now since I did the job so I forgot whether I replaced both of them or not but I did.
CVT = continuously variable transmission. Thank you FB friends for the info 😀 Shows how little I know or care about them, as I didn't even get the abbreviation right.
If you've ever rode a snowmobile that's a CVT transmission. The CVT you're working on has two pulleys with a metal belt computer controls both pulleys continuous variable transmission.
I have had the same change of heart. Nissan has become one of the most difficult brands to work on, be it software or engineering aspects. Don’t dare clean a throttle body, lol. Thanks for another great video!
Thank you!! I just happened upon this video researching the same code. The transmission was just changed, but Nissan told us it was either the range switch or the transmission. I didn't find corrosion on the light, but the wire in the connector was loose, causing the reverse light not to work. After repairing the wire, everything is working great. Thanks again, you saved me a bunch of money.
I am a Mitsubishi Technician, this is a very common problem with Jatco cvt Jf015. Danner, only replace the bulb's with an original Nissan part number and the cvt will work fine. The Jatco control unit evaluate the amps bulb in all conditions, when the brake is press and depress, when you put reverse, neutral, drive or low, if the amp is not right the control unit set a code and in some cases the cvt set in limp mode. Many technicians from Nissan or Mitsubishi replaced the cvt by warranty claim but in many cases the warranty claim is rejected and the dealer pay for that cvt, regards from Mexico Danner!
We had the same experience with the Reverse light appearing dimmer. We removed bulb, as you did and brightened right up after reinstall. We also did a software update and like you shall wait and see if the car returns! Thank you for the video Paula @ Summit
Paul and Caleb, I hope you guys have a great Saturday. Thank you to both of you for your efforts in helping us all to learn. You are a great teacher and Caleb's editing skills are so good he can easily handle major television/corporate work.
If you look at the factory diagram the reverse lights and the input to the TCM are all tied together. All the rear lights share the same grounds left and right side. So it makes sense to me that if you had a ground issue either on the left or the right tail lamp/ stop lamps circuits as well as a short in the rear lighting circuits that would show a system voltage to the tcm.
Yes. tail light issues will cause transmission issues as bulletine says. I had a Nissan Bluebid Sylphy with CVT transmission and if the one or more brake lamps are burned, car had hesitation issues. So, check for the ground issues :)
I had a Toyota each that had a corrosion issue in the lighting harness for rear tail lights that was tripping the transmission into thinking it was in reverse. So it wouldn’t start. Came out to my car in morning with reverse lamps on. I’m not surprised. If the Tcm see’s that reverse lights that would confuse the tcm tripping a code for sure. Great video bud.
I was expecting you to put an intentional backfeed to the circuit to see if you could create the problem just to verify if that bulletin had credibility.
Did you see the images in the bulletin? It was definitely a credible TSB. Then when I saw the dim bulb. I was no longer concerned about the code, but more focused on the how and why of the backfeed. Maybe playing around a little more would have answered that. Anyway, it's been 5 or 6 weeks since changing the bulbs and all is still well.
Bulletin is 100 percent credible. Manufacturers go out of their way to avoid publishing TSBs unless its a legit issue, so when one goes public...you can be damn sure it is legit. Doesn't mean a tsb always relates to the exact situation on the vehicle you're working on..but if it is published as a tsb, it should be step 1 in your diag. And if the diag confirms the tsb but the tsb has you replace a part with same non updated part... then its time for experienced based fix. Don't let the engineers parts cannon shoot you in the ass 😎
Thanks for sharing SD👍 Nissan's are always difficult, but this video is very important in diagnosing a fault that could be flagged due to a problem in the parallel circuit, the code description kind of said it (in hidden word's) that if the TCM see's two command's at the same time for 5 seconds, it would set the P0705, but what a great video looking forward to the follow-up video👍 Special thanks to James Danner & Caleb Danner👍 Stay safe Guy's❤
Hi I had a po701 code and watching your video was very somewhere to my problems I had no dash light blowing fuse for the dash every time I put it in reverse so today I went out and check the rear lights and turn off the wire was shorted back there pinch between the anchor in a light anchor bolt fix that I’m back to Running great out lamp mode . I never stop burning I’m a retired mechanic of over 50 years and you can always learn you’re a great help when you found that bulletin about water and the tail lights so that’s where I went and looked.
Had an issue with intermittent no start on my 02 accord. Had starter tested at the zone of auto's and it tested good. So i did all the tests ive found throughout your videos, and still didnt find anything. Then i became a parts changer. Well 400$ later i found the video about bench testing the starter....i test everything myself now. Thanks for your videos!
@@AG-jt2wq No it didn’t. I had to replace them both again and do a reset. Now it hasn’t done it in awhile, I also did a reset on it because the engine light it still comes on. I think it’s a there some wrong with the electrical harness that goes the the transmission because they have bad transmission. Nissan bought a transmission company and put out defective transmission. The is a lawsuit going about it.
This was my first experience with a back feed issue. It's just like you tell your students, it's not going to click until you see it in the field. Thanks for saving my hide on this one Paul, I got the next one.
Hi guys. I want to thank you guys for posting what you did. I have a 2016 Nissan Versa. I took a trip to the autozone to find out what was going on with my car. All the symptoms you guys talked about, dash PRNDL, backup lamp going out, delayed acceleration all were happening . However instead of having major components changed first at a local AAMCO I decided to do the easy cheap stuff first. Lo and behold my car is running better by just changing the backup tail light bulbs. The check engine light is still on but all the symptoms have gone away. It even shifts smoother and I will update you guys in a week if anything odd comes up. Y’all saved me a ton of money. Thanks and hope you guys take this into consideration.
That light will go off. It need to do some self tests over a few days and it will go out as long as there is no other issue. Thank you! So glad to help
@@JavierMendoza-hb9uv thanks for replying. Changed both bulbs today. Lights are good and the dash light is no longer black when i put it into drive. How long did it take for your cel to go off?
@@LadybugToes I would guesstimate about 4 years after purchase . But I got it used so I can only imagine since the car’s first day would have put it at 6 years. Tough little car. I try to ensure it is clean and all maintenance done on time
Thank you for this video!! I have the same code, but the car is driving just fine. We have had problems with our lights on the driver's side. Your video saved me some money!!
Hey bro, I had the same problem. I bought a car from the auction and it did the same thing. Thank you for your video it kind of give me a idea what I’m looking for but I’m going to show you what I found in mine
Bad ground at the tail lights is the issue. it's simply burned. When You aply brakes or turn signals the voltage goes to the revers light instead of "burned" ground. It's very common for the nissans... Just unplug connectors at the lights and inspect ground terminals/pins.
I had the same problem with my 2013 Nissan versa I switched out the switch three times and it still give me the trouble code so I give the car up and I switch into a Honda Civic watching this video now It made more sense about the vehicle
Had this problem in my 2012 Nissan versa. Changed the bulbs first, problem came back. Changed the circuit board ... problem came back. Finally fixed it by changing the pins that connect to the circuit board.
Dan if you have time. I had a nissan sentra came to me after 3 transmission with the last one being a crate from Nissan with the same problem the car is in limp mode, no codes any where on the car except a code for a brake light switch the tests on the switch shows everything ok, so I moved on to the brake lights them selves sure enough the power gets back there but the bulbs burned notice I said bulbS both, since there is no relation I moved on to other tests with no luck. so I decided to ship it. but as gesture of good faith I decided to replace the bulbs. viola the problem is solved yes the transmission issue is solved!!!!! it turned out they put a program line that if both bulbs are out you are not safe to be on the road so they shut you down.
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS VIDEO!!!! Ihavent checked by lights for corrosion yet. But, WOW!! Thank you for being so thorough and talking through it the whole way. Even if it's not my problem. This is the best troubleshooting video ever made.
@ScannerDanner Thank you so much again! I checked my backup lights. And had the EXACT same issue. No corrosion, but one of them was dim. I took out the bulb. It had very slight wear, and very, very light corrosion on the tip contact. So, I cleaned it up with a piece of emery cloth. Put it back in. Both were bright. I cleared the code. It was still showing after one trip to town about 8 miles away and back. But, after another trip,the code is gone. I NEVER would have guessed this was the problem. Sometimes you find the right video on here. And sometimes you're lucky enough to find a trustful source to go to for any future problems. That is what happened here. Thank you so very much!
My parents 2014 SV sedan set a P0705. The symptom was poor acceleration and engine speed wouldn't rise above 1800 RPM or so. Happened while driving on a sunny day. The P0705 appears to put the car into a limp home mode, where the CVT isn't allowed to change pulley position. When I was plugging in the ODB scanner, the trunk opened. I thought it was just the key in my pocket getting pressed. It happened again today when nobody had either key set. I put the car in reverse (engine not running) and went to close the trunk, noticed the reverse lights weren't on, but they came on when the trunk was closed (I believe the jolt of closing the trunk completed a faulty connection somewhere). I test drove the car a second time after I closed the trunk and pulled the code, the problem was still present, but quickly resolved itself. It hasn't reappeared since. The gear indicator on the dash works fine, the tail lamp assemblies are completely corrosion free. My current theory is that there's a faulty connection between the TRS and tail lamp assembly somewhere in the harness inside the car. Either that or the reverse bulbs or tail lamp grounds are faulty.
just had the same problem on my wifes car. checked for water intrusion, etc, after finding the tsb, but i found no waterleaks. reset the reverse light bulbs, etc and no problem after. i am crossing my fingers. i am glad that you figured out the reason why it was happening, because i could not. Thank you for your videos11
@@ScannerDanner what was weird was i first had a blown lr signal lamp bulb, and the same code, so i replaced it. a week later , the rr lamp went, and also with the same code i replaced it , cleared the code, then the following week, the rs signal lamp would flash rapidly with the car in reverse. i recheck for water leaks per the tsb, found none, and i replaced the bulb for the reverse light, and also decided to change the switch, because i was not able to get a consistant reading on my scanner of the transmission positions. so far, it has been 3 weeks, and the light has not came on. if it comes again, i will do a voltage drop. sorry , but i did not check if the reverse light was dim, but i know it was working.
by the way, the new range switch is from oriellys, and not genuine...thanks again for your video. it was quite informative, as i dont mess with a lot of electronics on autos, as it just got to complicated, lol
I had the same exact code on a 13 versa with about 120k miles. The Nissan dealer wanted to change both taillights to fix the problem. We declined the repair because they wanted to charge way too much. I took both tailights out and did not see anything. Cleaned all the contacts and put everything back together. The code haven't come back and it's been abour 4 months. Weird
I love you man thanks I have one named sunny here and it's module 2016 and I had the same Issue as exact the pervious owner has changed the transmission range sensor and it still shows up and actually also the gas consumption is a really high and then I found your video I checked the bolds and actually I found that the whole connector is has some burn at one of the pins I have to change the whole tail-light along with the connector
Differentials are something I really wanna get to get good at I’ve done one on my own pick up after paying someone “who knew” what they were doing only lasted 500 miles it’s good money once you know how to get one done in a hour or two took me like 5 days to get mine at spec on back lash pinion depth and etc but since then I’ve driven 20k miles of harsh driving off roading and burnouts no growling have done 2 services and checked the gear mesh it’s still perfect. One of the proudest moments I’ve had in my 6 years of being a mechanic I am now 21 did it when I was 19 started when I was 15 at a local trans shop.
I swear, today for some reason the pns switch has been a hot topic no matter what the make of vehicle. I asked my doctor about it and she said there are more than a thousand TSBs on the pns switch. She said when it acts up to just exorcise the pns lever until it goes into drive successfully.
Congratulaciones máster for excelent explanation and diagnóstics, I am learning more with your videos, greetings from ciudad de Mexico, muchas gracias for sharing this great information
The hesitation part is probably the pcm seeing the brake switch on when you're hitting the gas. It thinks it's a runaway and cuts fuel. That's if you had a back feed from the tail lamps to the brake lamp circuit from corrosion or short in the tail lamps board.
Back in the 1970's the only CVT around were the DAF transmissions on the small 340 Volvo's from their Dutch factory. These transmission used external rubber drive belts with variable pulleys. The transmiission was mounted in the rear of the car just ahead of the rear axle. The two external belts linked to very large vee pulleys on the left and right drive shafts. I went out to a house call on one with no drive. Put a rope on the car and moved it 10 yards only to have one of the pulleys fall off on to the road. Fix was simple only parts required were a new nut and locking washer.
I WORK ALONE AND DO A LOT OF TRAILER BRAKES AND LIGHTING ON THEM. MY BRAKE DEPRESSOR IS A HARBOR FREIGHT BAR CLAMP WITH THE ENDS REVERSED. $ 5.00 FOR A SHORT ONE TO LESS THAN $10.00 FOR A 2 FOOTER. CAN WEDGE UNDER DASH OR AGAINST THE SEAT. SLIDE IT TO FIT CLOSE AND THEN PULL THE HANDLE TILL TIGHT. HAS AN EASY RELEASE. WORKS BETTER THAN A SCREWDRIVER OR 2X4. ENDS ARE ABOUT 4 IN. LONG SO NO DANGER OF PUNCHING HOLES OR GETTING GREASE ON THE SEAT. WORKED SO WELL, I SPLURGED AND GOT AN 18 INCH ONE TO MAKE A 3 PIECE SET. BEATS HECK OUT OF THE LISLE TOOL AND A LOT LESS MONEY.
These CVT's are everywhere these days and new seemingly is heading in that direction. I service them all the time. The "WeberAuto" Channel has some great video on the subject.
I got a 2015 Versa check engine light was on but went off before I got to mechanic they scanned anyways was a battery code and abs but they couldn’t find anything wrong. Yesterday I noticed when shifting no indication on dash of gear I was in and today the check engine light back on. Went to tell mechanic as I just got car back yesterday and he scanned again said it’s a transmission sensor code he said would need further diagnostic. Car runs fine so fingers crossed 🤞🙏💫it’s something easy like this . Thanks for sharing ❤
In my opinion CVT transmission is similar to a snowmobile Transmission where you have 2 different size pullys when one will squeeze expanding the diameter the 2nd one expands changing the circumference of the pully to smaller and not saying there's a belt inside the transmission But similar
Exactly right, although in passenger vehicles the “belt” usually consists of hundreds of metal clips strung together on the circumference of an inner metal band. When they break it makes a MESS
Thanks - I was just going to post the same thing. Only thing I'd add is, it's like a 10-speed bicycle in the way it works, only without set gears to engage. When your pedal sprocket is big and the wheel sprocket is small, you haul ass and pedal slowly, but can't climb hills very well. When the pedal sprocket is small and the wheel sprocket big, you pedal fast and go slow, but are able to climb steep hills with a heavy load with minimal effort. You can think of automotive, snowmobile, and ATV CVTs as infinitely variable 10-speed bicycles with no gears.
You were talking about the CVT transmissions... My first job was for Saturn that had HUGE problems with CVT transmissions (like all cars with CVT transmissions) and they had us replacing the internals. But everything came out in one piece and got swapped out by removing the side cover. But yeah, there is no rebuilding the CVT internals that I have ever seen done. But it is a cool setup. But im with you. I want nothing to do with rebuilding one.
I feel your pain. Defeat sucks. Look forward to the follow up vid. Was really looking to you finding the prob. Lesson.....service info key! By the way your items for sale at scanner danner amazon are great. Thx
Right....Continuously Variable. A friend built a drive of v-belts that was continuously variable to power his small lathe that could adjust speed while the lathe was turning.
Continuously variable transmission. Basically a pair of inward facing cones for input and another for output and a high strength belt connecting them. the input cones move apart and the output cones move together so that the belt is on a smaller part of the input side cones and bigger part of output side cones to increase gear ratio. Since it can be at any points on the cones, it doesnt have set ratios, itll just slide continuously, slightly increasing the ratio the whole time.
I had the same problem last week. - Started with the slip indicator turning on. - Diagnostic result was P0705 (1/3) 1. PNP Switch/ Circuit. 2. Shift Position Sensor Circuit. 3. Transmission Range Sensor "A" Circuit. - Then I noticed on the dash Transmission Shift Indicator Position that when I shifted to (D)rive the letters will disappeared, but will appeared only when I went back to (R)everse which sometimes also will dissapeared. - After watching your awesome video, I checked my tail lights. In my case was the right one. When in reverse, was completely off. - After I changed the light bulbs everything is back to normal, except my check engine light is on and gives back the same diagnostic result. How can I reset it, so the check engine light is off? Thanks for the video.
@@ScannerDanner I did not have any issues after your reply. However, now on my left tail light the left turn light bulb went out. I replaced and still is not working. I used a working bulb to make sure it wasn't the new bulb and still no luck. Both brake and reverse lights work on that side (left) but no turning signal. Should I get a new rear taillight socket assembly? Where can i get one? or How can I test it if it is getting any power? Thanks in advance!
Yeah another gentleman asked my same question why you didnt check the connector. Which always has a chance of a problem. I came across this same issue. Worse part is that its a simple circuit. Anyways i found that the place at the male connector melted for one reason or another and two contacts were touching by thousands of a inch lol so change the tail connector that fix the problem. Been a year customer never complained again!
That was a strange one! A TSB for tail lights causing a transmission code. Nothing shocks me anymore in the automotive world! Literally thousands of failure modes ... I hate Nissan's too for every reason you showed here! Wrong service info, and SLOOOOOW navigation with the Autel. I mean slower than dial-up internet slow! It's ridiculous. I dread whenever one of these shows up here, which thankfully isn't too often. I wouldn't own one if it were given to me! Headache central. I have enough trouble with my Silverado! My stainless Corsa cat back just cracked in half right at the flex joint yesterday. Literally one thing after another with that toilet. Installed a new transmission a few months back after losing 3rd and 4th. Just turned 106k miles on the way home. Guess I can't complain too much - got 14 years, 104k out of that exhaust system. Great stuff as always, fellas.
CVT is basically a glorified snowmobile transmission. its got a big v belt and 2 variable diameter pulleys that change diameter by contracting/expanding with rpms
PROBLEM FIXED: I own a 2015 Nissan Versa sedan and had the exact same symptoms including the gear position next to the odometer disappearing. At 27K and 40K, the CVT transmission was replaced under warranty. The P0705 issue started at 85K miles and I didn't fully diagnose the correct fix until 105K miles. I tried swapping the tail light circuit boards from another Versa, pushing wires (feeding into) the connectors, taking out and turning the connected tail light assemblies to twist the wiring to make better contact, changing the transmission sensor (twice, maybe 3 times), resetting the engine light each time. The code would go away and then always come back. Then, I identified the real issue was the loose female metal "pin grabbers" inside the female tail light connectors. The pins on the harness do not grab the pins on the tail light assembly tightly enough, throwing the code. It has nothing to do with your transmission. Rather the cost saving effort in perhaps a common ground or other wire between the transmission sensor and tail light wiring. Hence, you have signal loss, triggering the check engine code. I took a pointy tool (like a screw driver except ending in the point). You have to use a tool with a strong pointed end. And placed it into the female connector, pushing each of the "grabbing" connectors (top and bottom metal) closer so they'd grab the male connectors better. Now at 110K miles, no check engine light and I don't expect it to return. I didn't bother resetting the code this time and the check engine light went away on its own a couple thousand miles ago.
All the time I was shouting at the TV for you to check the connector on the back of each lamp cluster. No matter what brand, they're notorious for burning up the ground connection as the stamped part of the cluster is galvanised steel whereas the harness connector is brass or similar. Direction of current flow, sum of current from all lamps, a little moisture and you get accelerated corrosion then they melt due to high current through a high resistance. My guess is fault sets when direction indicators and brake lights are on at the same time. What does it need to see a high? Maybe only 5 Volts on a 12V circuit?
At 25:10 the left light was definitely dimmer. I believe you had a short feeding another light in the harness. Possible cause was pinched wires from a previous bulb change. When you moved the wire you made the short go away for now. This will come back when the short reconnects and drives the reverse to 12 volts will in PND.
From my memory, that bulb was still dim, even after removing the taillight assembly. I need to go back and watch. Caleb may have had an edit there? It's been 5 or 6 weeks since changing the bulbs with no fault. Thanks!
Just went back and watched and I made a big mistake. One where we all wouldn't be debating this dim bulb cause. I should have tested that circuit with the reverse lights on. In fact I shouldn't have even unbolted that assembly without having the reverse lights on smh. I missed my window.
@@ScannerDanner you were just following tech bulletin looking for corrosion. Only hindsight was it a mistake because it wasn’t corrosion causing a short. The genius was understanding why the problem was in the light with the information on hand.
tail lamp assembly water intrusion, first thing I think of? it's corrodes and bridges tail to brake filaments enough to back-feed the brake switch circuit and trigger the codes, possible while coasting a long ways off highway ramp/downhill ** watching further and seeing the corrosion location in photo's, it could be tail/brake back-feeding the reverse or tail/reverse back-feeding the brake circuit or more then one being back-fed via poor ground! (assuming connector is at bottom of those lamp assemblies) which it kind of looked that way by amount of traces.
also. poor bulb to housing ground could allow tail to brake circuit back-feeding, assuming the brake switch directly feeds the bulbs and TCM/BCM/ECM. I forget what the diagram claimed or lied about now. multitasking lol and now thinking further, a simple bad filament inside brake/tail bulb could break off the ground side and bridge together, again back-feeding the brake circuit. **also filaments sagged and touching in a shared tail/brake bulb. really a big can of worms there, but that's the stupid things which my mind figures out pretty fast when I focus on it, but you cannot win them all in a hurry!
Hey Paul I have your book and it’s awesome. Thank you. just to add to your complaints with the Mitchell’s diagram, I had an 18 Hyundai Santa Fe for a can bus problem. Diagram was a big liar and doesn’t even show you where the splices are. I found a splice near the engine compartment and the diagram says that it goes to a vacuum pump, blind spot and etc can lines but the car doesn’t even those 😂 the best part yet, the pin outs at the DLC aren’t even correct and the wires aren’t even the same colors as what they’re showing! 🤦🏾
When you look at CAN bus wiring. Try to find the factory diagram for those, not the re-drawn version. They started providing these factory diagrams on the newer cars for us.
Yo tenía el mismo carro con el mismo DTC y el problema era el BCM , y también el carro no respondía bien a la hora de acelerar al poner la direccional Izquierda, saludos teacher Denner
i have the p0705 code on a 2015 scion tC and idk if watching this is gonna help me or not yet cuz im only 1 min into the video but i already like u lol SUBBED
I have a couple nuggets to share with the classroom. I noticed that you pulled codes and then you complained that you didn't have freeze frame data later. You should be able to save the freeze frame data onto your Snap On scan tool. Then you can erase your codes and still have something to fall back on. It's a bit of a pain in that they're not user friendly in writing file names. Finding them has been kinda rough and then understanding what you're looking at can be confusing because they'll show the freeze frame data like it's just live data PID's. They do transfer easy to a PC for easier reading on Shop Stream Connect, though. I also did some snooping for OE wiring diagrams. It turns out that Mitchell did the best they could with what Nissan gave them. Nissan never added any splices to their diagram for the CVT controls to the reverse lights. It would seem they ONLY added relevant splices for CVT control circuits. The reverse light diagram did include the splice and they drew it like a CVT and a traditional automatic range sensor were both installed. If you ever want to see it for yourself, page TM313 in the transmission section and page EXL68 in exterior lighting sections are where I found them. I'm glad you posted this video for us. I've always struggled with Nissan's service info and wiring diagrams. This got me spending some time to get a little more acclimated with it. Nissan's service info is still as dissapointing as a system call, but I can find my way through the service info a little better. Thanks, as always, and keep up the good work.
1. I should have had the reverse lights on when I unbolted that assembly. A few of you mentioned a bad ground and that was a possibility. I think? But I have to look at the other lights (parking, brake and turn), if they share that same ground for the reverse light, then this absolutely was not a bad ground, at least not externally (wiring or connector). There would have been other lighting issues! (SEE EDIT BELOW) 2. Some others suggested that I prove the code by jumping the reverse light circuit. This is a good suggestion and I even mentioned doing something along those lines. I chose not to because I was dealing with incorrect diagrams and I made the mistake of taking that bulb out before ever taking a voltage reading on that bulb smh. So jumping things, I know the code is going to set. This is a legit TSB, that was never in question. 3. It's been 5 or 6 weeks since the bulbs were replaced with no issues. So I'm calling it a fix. Wish I would have done some voltage checks on that circuit board WHILE the bulb was dim!! I'm sorry I did not and we are all left with questions 😪 EDIT!!! @Chris Wey mentioned about when the brake, turn and parking lights are on, with a bad (slightly in this case) ground will increase voltage on the reverse light circuit, causing a drive and reverse signal (and code) at the same time. If this housing only has one ground, this could absolutely be a condition! Maybe the dim bulb was a coincidence and me just moving the housing "fixed the bad ground (temporarily) 🤬🤬🤬 sorry guys. Feeling like a jack weed here. Time will tell
Good thinking but if the brake turn,park are on and voltage increase it still can`t show 2 gears on, because even tho it has voltage at reverse back feeding, the voltage would have no where to go because the pnp switch isn`t closing that circuit to relay that to the computer, the pnp can only select one gear at a time, so you might see some voltage back feeding but the lever isn`t connecting that circuit to the computer.
@@phareztrinimand remember the diagram was wrong! The reverse light circuit is tied into the signal wire that goes to the computer. So the range switch will be sending the signal that it is in drive and the elevated voltage on the reverse light circuit would be sending a false reverse signal. Also remember that even though it is a 12v signal, the internal threshold will be much lower than that, to trigger a reverse signal recognition. Hope that makes sense. I'm not saying this is what is was, as you would most likely have other lighting issues (dim bulbs, fast blinking turn signal etc.) But it is plausible.
Hope you can translate this my friend Muy bueno tu video y aunque no encontraste la falla me gusto la forma y el proceso de todo Congratulations my friend I’m already following you
After further review i waited till night had someone put the car in reverse and the left reverse light is dimmer than the right. Then i didnt tell them which one so i did the same thing and it is confirmed. Left light is dimmer . I was hit from the side a week ago. The accident definitely had an impact on it.
I've had 2 of these Nissans come through my shop with this DTC. I knew what the problem was as soon as I saw the video title. I knew I was going to watch this one fuck with your head 🤣 The brake lamp circuit back feeds into the reverse lamps circuit... which is shared with the PRNDL Reverse circuit! 🤯
The ones that I diagnosed didn't have corrosion either. They had a voltage drop across the pins of the harness connector for the ground circuit. Not the pin fit but the actual pin crimp.
I will add that I scoped the ground circuit voltage drop from the harness side of the tail lamp connector across to the lamp side. While manipulating the wires I saw the voltage fluctuated between 1-5v on the ground circuit across the connector with the brakes applied.
I can totally relate to what you are saying about the cvt transaxles. I used to have the "privilege" of having to work on those. I think it was maybe Eric O. at South Main Auto who also says he dislikes working on Nissans with electrical issues because their wiring diagrams are horrid. 38:50, the pry bar as the brake pedal assistant, do you know how many times I have done that? Great minds think alike😁. I don't know why manufacturers use those printed circuit boards on tail lamps or anywhere else on a car. GM used those on their pickups for years and had problems with them. I remember an instructor saying to me one time that for those to be effective the margin of error in manufacturing them has to be zero, in other words, probably won't happen. I like how that chart at 12:27 says two or more signals simultaneously stay on continuously. I'm surprised they didn't also say at the same time, 🤣.
Am working on one of these one right now and the rev light left side flickers at times. Am going to take it apart to see if the socket has any corrosion. I don’t see any no water intrusion on the outside lens. The vehicle drives good and no problem just a annoying check engine light.
1:00 They sure took a plummet in quality. Have you ever used the factory diagnostic software, 'Consult 3+'? If there ever was a software that felt like it's being held together with tape and elmers glue, well this is it. Excruciatingly slow, too.
"They're not telling me why".... Yup, that's exactly the way successful technicians think. Good reasoning, backfeeding voltage from a shared ground could trick the computer into sending another misleading code. Unfortunately those who write these communications are more specialized in language translation than they are in auto repair.
In my experience, many service manuals prove they aren't any better at language translation either. It seems to me, they're much more concerned with safety and liability disclaimers. They could care less about how much you need an English to English translation after that. Read a Mitsubishi service manual for the full shock value. I expect to see something like this on a good day: "Warning: Do not attempt to eat, or otherwise attempt to chew on the business end of your chainsaw for any reason. This is especially relevent when the chain brake is released and the chainsaw is at full throttle. Any attempts to put your lips and/or mouth on the chain at any time may result in personal injury" "Warning: Do not attempt to put any amount of the rest of your face near or on the chain under the aforementioned conditions. Personal injury may occur.: Step 1: Removing the Flibbersnart. -Removing Flibbersnart.
@Scannerdanner I have recreated a problem that a friend/customer in this similar situation by brakes on marker light on and a turn signal on, so if you ever get this car back that is worth a try and I did find the loose wire to give a rapid flash. How and why it did it but it’s worth a try and it’s free for 20 seconds
Sounds bad ground related then, as other have stated. It's been 5-6 weeks since bulb replacement, so we will see. I'll definitely update everyone. Thanks!
i heard about a merc that would not start because both rear brake light bulbs where out, i didnt look at the car so im not 100% sure if that was a thing or not.
I once had an issue where the plastic insulator on the bottom of the bulb cracked, then a direct short to ground formed inside that crack. The fuse would blow as soon as the bulb circuit was activated. Maybe that happened here, but the short wasn't direct, so it wouldn't blow the fuse. If the issue happened in reverse, and the short circuit was largely pulling the reverse circuit to ground, the TCM would have received no inputs as to the gear position. It sounds logical at that point that the PRNDL indicator would immediately go blank and set the code. The code setting criteria specified that it will set if it receives two high signals at the same time, but it doesn't mention what happens if all signals are low at the same time.
@ScannerDanner 2016 versa sv cvt, solid yellow cel came on. code read p0705 at az. Rear drivers light had issue, changed bulb Left tailight had issue, replaced bulb-didn’t fix, took bulb out, wiped off circuit board and put bulb back in-fixed. While checking the fix, passengers tail light issue presented itself-replaced bulb, fixed it. Then it went out again. Also noticed that Gear selection illumination on dash went black when I put it in drive. Wiped off circuit board (even though it looked fine), replaced bulb. Fixed! Gear selection illumination on dash went back to normal as well. I really want to have the code erased. If this problem was caused by the tail lights-and it comes back-could this cause me to be stranded? Thank you for your video! There isn't much on the internet about this at all!!!
@@ScannerDanner idk if i missed it in the video but did you take out the yellow locking piece that holds the pin in place on the connector? The connector itself doesn't usually show up black but when you take the locking tab out you can see the pins are spread and the connector is usually melted a little.
Just too let you know. My 2015 Nissan Versa would not take gas at all.. I would turn off engine several times then it would finally go. Took for diagnosis test only issue found was a brake light right side out. Which I had replaced 2x already. Replaced it and have not had that issue since has been 5yrs.
Awesome video. Did they never come back? I have a friend had similar issues on a 2011 Rogue Krom except she’s had “parts changers” do 750$ worth of work incl range sensor. Yet her code comes right back every time. I’ll see if we can scope out those tail lights.
![Toyota Camry - Intermittent No Start, Backfiring, Runs Good When it Starts [Part 1]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Tro9M12LoQw/mqdefault.jpg)
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The TCM puts out a small reference voltage on the backup light bulb power circuit. When the vehicle is not in reverse, the TCM expects this voltage to be pulled to ground through the closed windings of the bulbs. If the bulbs are blown, the wrong style, or the circuit has a problem, the TCM assumes the vehicle is in reverse.
Best answer I've seen! I should have checked that circuit smh
Now I have to update my update lol.
Thanks so much!
thank you for the tip! answers my question why the light came on...
HI SCANNER DANNER, I’m in New Jersey, how can I book an appointment with you for my genesis coupe v6? I’ve been getting an off and on p0014 code for 2 years but the car runs great with 267,000 miles. Please help.
Shouldn't make cars like this Nissan has lost revenue he plot gone to the dogs since Renault took them over.
So, does that mean that when one of the back-up lights burns out it will set this fault code ?
I went thru this on a 15 versa after pulling my hair out I just happened to notice the tail lights didn't quite look the same so after a close up inspection ii noticed the passenger side looked like shattered glass on an inner layer not the outside lens.... weirdest crap Ive ever seen.
I thought no way it can't be..... Yes I went to the local pull a part and got one put it in then cleared the code we drove it to get parts n food ect ect, for a week and the money light never came back on and still hasn't 3 years later.
I been a mechanic going on 39 years now and I have learned that a tech will never stop learning in this field.
Thanks Scanner Danner for your videos sometimes this old timer needs help in these space ships on wheels!!!
I’ve fixed this same problem with a new tail lamp as well
@@Tek_Nician Well glad I'm not alone ..... These new cars are ridiculous the obvious is never obvious ya gotta think outside the box least for me.
Back the day stuff was way more straight forward now I'm finding a trans input speed sensor causing a code for a bad cam sensor..... Ya I think it's time to retire while I'm still sane lol.
My car a Nissan would not take any gas . My problem was a brake light was out !
Thanks for the info. Did you have to replace the whole tail light housing or just the bulb. And was it both or just 1 side
@@ceezauto213 I replace the passenger side taillight assembly
This video just saved me at least $5,000. Took my Versa to the dealer and they said it needed a full transmission replacement. I watched this video and connected the dots to the after market backup camera I had installed. The knuckleheads who installed the camera did a terrible job and left the wire open to shorting out. A quick repair of their work, and the car is not throwing the error anymore.
Thank you, thank you, thank you for posting this.
Heck yeah! Glad this helped you!
Just had a friend come by with a P0705 code active, and we replaced the range sensor. Code was still active after the repair, but after watching your video, we found the connector to the left rear tail-light to have spread pins and one of the pins arcing. After fixing the connector, everything works as intended. Thank you for the insight 🤘
When you say spread pins what do you mean?
Just started the video. Had one of these a couple months ago with the same code. The one I was working on needed the tailights replaced. There is a circut in I think the drivers side tailight that gets corroded in these when the tailights crack and cause transmission range sensor codes. It's weird. That's what the fix was for the one I did though. Also note they don't 100% have to be visibly cracked to have corrosion on that chip. Old bulbs cause it too.
Edit* finally got to the point in the video with the bulb. Yes the bulb not making contact will short that circut and trigger that code. You had it right.
So you replace both tail lights?
@@Exar46 actually in this case yes because they were both cracked and letting moisture in.
@@Exar46 I almost forgot that part and thought I screwed up writing the comment out. It has been awhile now since I did the job so I forgot whether I replaced both of them or not but I did.
Thks Alien I'll sell her both then 🤠
CVT = continuously variable transmission. Thank you FB friends for the info 😀
Shows how little I know or care about them, as I didn't even get the abbreviation right.
CVT= Christ Victorious and Triumphant.
I like this one better 😃
Can’t Verify Trouble codes
you subliminally got the "constant velocity" from CV joint, honest mistake.
If you've ever rode a snowmobile that's a CVT transmission. The CVT you're working on has two pulleys with a metal belt computer controls both pulleys continuous variable transmission.
I have had the same change of heart. Nissan has become one of the most difficult brands to work on, be it software or engineering aspects. Don’t dare clean a throttle body, lol.
Thanks for another great video!
The editing and the technical aspects are a perfect combination to learn from.
Thank you!! I just happened upon this video researching the same code. The transmission was just changed, but Nissan told us it was either the range switch or the transmission. I didn't find corrosion on the light, but the wire in the connector was loose, causing the reverse light not to work. After repairing the wire, everything is working great. Thanks again, you saved me a bunch of money.
I am a Mitsubishi Technician, this is a very common problem with Jatco cvt Jf015. Danner, only replace the bulb's with an original Nissan part number and the cvt will work fine. The Jatco control unit evaluate the amps bulb in all conditions, when the brake is press and depress, when you put reverse, neutral, drive or low, if the amp is not right the control unit set a code and in some cases the cvt set in limp mode. Many technicians from Nissan or Mitsubishi replaced the cvt by warranty claim but in many cases the warranty claim is rejected and the dealer pay for that cvt, regards from Mexico Danner!
We had the same experience with the Reverse light appearing dimmer. We removed bulb, as you did and brightened right up after reinstall. We also did a software update and like you shall wait and see if the car returns! Thank you for the video Paula @ Summit
Just wanted to thank you. Had same issue. Replaced bulbs and car shifts great with no codes! 👍👍👍👍
Awesome!
Paul and Caleb, I hope you guys have a great Saturday. Thank you to both of you for your efforts in helping us all to learn. You are a great teacher and Caleb's editing skills are so good he can easily handle major television/corporate work.
If you look at the factory diagram the reverse lights and the input to the TCM are all tied together. All the rear lights share the same grounds left and right side. So it makes sense to me that if you had a ground issue either on the left or the right tail lamp/ stop lamps circuits as well as a short in the rear lighting circuits that would show a system voltage to the tcm.
All rear lights share that ground? Sweet. Good information. Thank you
I changed my rear lights n still having this problem:/
Yes. tail light issues will cause transmission issues as bulletine says. I had a Nissan Bluebid Sylphy with CVT transmission and if the one or more brake lamps are burned, car had hesitation issues. So, check for the ground issues :)
Wow
Such a bad engineering
Might be my problem all this while.
Fighting a hard shifting issue in my cvt
I had a Toyota each that had a corrosion issue in the lighting harness for rear tail lights that was tripping the transmission into thinking it was in reverse. So it wouldn’t start. Came out to my car in morning with reverse lamps on. I’m not surprised. If the Tcm see’s that reverse lights that would confuse the tcm tripping a code for sure. Great video bud.
Cool piece of info, Thanks alot man.
I was expecting you to put an intentional backfeed to the circuit to see if you could create the problem just to verify if that bulletin had credibility.
I think he missed a detail in that bulletin....
Did you see the images in the bulletin? It was definitely a credible TSB. Then when I saw the dim bulb. I was no longer concerned about the code, but more focused on the how and why of the backfeed. Maybe playing around a little more would have answered that.
Anyway, it's been 5 or 6 weeks since changing the bulbs and all is still well.
Check out my pinned comment Matt. I made a mistake in my testing methods
@HouseCallAutoRepair what did I miss my friend? Thanks!
Bulletin is 100 percent credible. Manufacturers go out of their way to avoid publishing TSBs unless its a legit issue, so when one goes public...you can be damn sure it is legit. Doesn't mean a tsb always relates to the exact situation on the vehicle you're working on..but if it is published as a tsb, it should be step 1 in your diag. And if the diag confirms the tsb but the tsb has you replace a part with same non updated part... then its time for experienced based fix. Don't let the engineers parts cannon shoot you in the ass 😎
Thanks for sharing SD👍
Nissan's are always difficult, but this video is very important in diagnosing a fault that could be flagged due to a problem in the parallel circuit, the code description kind of said it (in hidden word's) that if the TCM see's two command's at the same time for 5 seconds, it would set the P0705, but what a great video looking forward to the follow-up video👍
Special thanks to James Danner & Caleb Danner👍
Stay safe Guy's❤
Hi I had a po701 code and watching your video was very somewhere to my problems I had no dash light blowing fuse for the dash every time I put it in reverse so today I went out and check the rear lights and turn off the wire was shorted back there pinch between the anchor in a light anchor bolt fix that I’m back to Running great out lamp mode . I never stop burning I’m a retired mechanic of over 50 years and you can always learn you’re a great help when you found that bulletin about water and the tail lights so that’s where I went and looked.
Thank you for the feedback and I'm glad this helped even if it was indirectly
Had an issue with intermittent no start on my 02 accord. Had starter tested at the zone of auto's and it tested good. So i did all the tests ive found throughout your videos, and still didnt find anything. Then i became a parts changer. Well 400$ later i found the video about bench testing the starter....i test everything myself now. Thanks for your videos!
I literally just got this same error code two weeks ago...you came in clutch.
Just came home feet up watching scanner danner my teacher 👍
I had the same problem. I replaced the sensor, but it was still doing it. So I replace both rear brake light and it fixed the problem so far.
Hi John. Thanks for your comments. Can you say it has totally fixed it now???
@@AG-jt2wq No it didn’t. I had to replace them both again and do a reset. Now it hasn’t done it in awhile, I also did a reset on it because the engine light it still comes on. I think it’s a there some wrong with the electrical harness that goes the the transmission because they have bad transmission. Nissan bought a transmission company and put out defective transmission. The is a lawsuit going about it.
This was my first experience with a back feed issue. It's just like you tell your students, it's not going to click until you see it in the field. Thanks for saving my hide on this one Paul, I got the next one.
no problem and thank you!
Hi guys. I want to thank you guys for posting what you did. I have a 2016 Nissan Versa. I took a trip to the autozone to find out what was going on with my car. All the symptoms you guys talked about, dash PRNDL, backup lamp going out, delayed acceleration all were happening . However instead of having major components changed first at a local AAMCO I decided to do the easy cheap stuff first. Lo and behold my car is running better by just changing the backup tail light bulbs. The check engine light is still on but all the symptoms have gone away. It even shifts smoother and I will update you guys in a week if anything odd comes up. Y’all saved me a ton of money. Thanks and hope you guys take this into consideration.
That light will go off. It need to do some self tests over a few days and it will go out as long as there is no other issue. Thank you! So glad to help
Did this fix your problem? I am getting the same error, same issues and hope it fixes mine.
@@LadybugToes yes it did work . Those Japanese have 5 dimensional thinking. I recommend changing both backup bulbs just in case.
@@JavierMendoza-hb9uv thanks for replying. Changed both bulbs today. Lights are good and the dash light is no longer black when i put it into drive. How long did it take for your cel to go off?
@@LadybugToes I would guesstimate about 4 years after purchase . But I got it used so I can only imagine since the car’s first day would have put it at 6 years. Tough little car. I try to ensure it is clean and all maintenance done on time
Thank you for this video!! I have the same code, but the car is driving just fine. We have had problems with our lights on the driver's side. Your video saved me some money!!
Hey bro, I had the same problem. I bought a car from the auction and it did the same thing. Thank you for your video it kind of give me a idea what I’m looking for but I’m going to show you what I found in mine
Bad ground at the tail lights is the issue. it's simply burned. When You aply brakes or turn signals the voltage goes to the revers light instead of "burned" ground. It's very common for the nissans... Just unplug connectors at the lights and inspect ground terminals/pins.
I had the same issue with a nissan versa 2013 that you re talking about ,thank you for share ur idea with us .
I had the same problem with my 2013 Nissan versa I switched out the switch three times and it still give me the trouble code so I give the car up and I switch into a Honda Civic watching this video now It made more sense about the vehicle
Had this problem in my 2012 Nissan versa. Changed the bulbs first, problem came back. Changed the circuit board ... problem came back. Finally fixed it by changing the pins that connect to the circuit board.
Dan if you have time. I had a nissan sentra came to me after 3 transmission with the last one being a crate from Nissan with the same problem the car is in limp mode, no codes any where on the car except a code for a brake light switch the tests on the switch shows everything ok, so I moved on to the brake lights them selves sure enough the power gets back there but the bulbs burned notice I said bulbS both, since there is no relation I moved on to other tests with no luck. so I decided to ship it. but as gesture of good faith I decided to replace the bulbs. viola the problem is solved yes the transmission issue is solved!!!!! it turned out they put a program line that if both bulbs are out you are not safe to be on the road so they shut you down.
Crazy stuff man
The tail light connector seems an obvious place to check. It was right there and more exposed to weather than the inside.
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS VIDEO!!!! Ihavent checked by lights for corrosion yet. But, WOW!! Thank you for being so thorough and talking through it the whole way. Even if it's not my problem. This is the best troubleshooting video ever made.
Wow, thanks so much
@ScannerDanner Thank you so much again! I checked my backup lights. And had the EXACT same issue. No corrosion, but one of them was dim. I took out the bulb. It had very slight wear, and very, very light corrosion on the tip contact. So, I cleaned it up with a piece of emery cloth. Put it back in. Both were bright. I cleared the code. It was still showing after one trip to town about 8 miles away and back. But, after another trip,the code is gone. I NEVER would have guessed this was the problem. Sometimes you find the right video on here. And sometimes you're lucky enough to find a trustful source to go to for any future problems. That is what happened here. Thank you so very much!
@@LU-py2rf your are very welcome and nice job on the fix! And welcome!
My parents 2014 SV sedan set a P0705. The symptom was poor acceleration and engine speed wouldn't rise above 1800 RPM or so. Happened while driving on a sunny day. The P0705 appears to put the car into a limp home mode, where the CVT isn't allowed to change pulley position. When I was plugging in the ODB scanner, the trunk opened. I thought it was just the key in my pocket getting pressed. It happened again today when nobody had either key set. I put the car in reverse (engine not running) and went to close the trunk, noticed the reverse lights weren't on, but they came on when the trunk was closed (I believe the jolt of closing the trunk completed a faulty connection somewhere). I test drove the car a second time after I closed the trunk and pulled the code, the problem was still present, but quickly resolved itself. It hasn't reappeared since. The gear indicator on the dash works fine, the tail lamp assemblies are completely corrosion free. My current theory is that there's a faulty connection between the TRS and tail lamp assembly somewhere in the harness inside the car. Either that or the reverse bulbs or tail lamp grounds are faulty.
Holy cow, you guys are not only smart, but anyone can tell you guys have extensive expirience.
just had the same problem on my wifes car. checked for water intrusion, etc, after finding the tsb, but i found no waterleaks. reset the reverse light bulbs, etc and no problem after. i am crossing my fingers. i am glad that you figured out the reason why it was happening, because i could not. Thank you for your videos11
Did you have a dim reverse light bulb too? Keep me updated on this would you?
@@ScannerDanner what was weird was i first had a blown lr signal lamp bulb, and the same code, so i replaced it. a week later , the rr lamp went, and also with the same code i replaced it , cleared the code, then the following week, the rs signal lamp would flash rapidly with the car in reverse. i recheck for water leaks per the tsb, found none, and i replaced the bulb for the reverse light, and also decided to change the switch, because i was not able to get a consistant reading on my scanner of the transmission positions. so far, it has been 3 weeks, and the light has not came on. if it comes again, i will do a voltage drop. sorry , but i did not check if the reverse light was dim, but i know it was working.
by the way, the new range switch is from oriellys, and not genuine...thanks again for your video. it was quite informative, as i dont mess with a lot of electronics on autos, as it just got to complicated, lol
I had the same exact code on a 13 versa with about 120k miles. The Nissan dealer wanted to change both taillights to fix the problem. We declined the repair because they wanted to charge way too much. I took both tailights out and did not see anything. Cleaned all the contacts and put everything back together. The code haven't come back and it's been abour 4 months. Weird
By contacts do you mean where the bulbs plug in ?
@@ceezauto213 No. where the harness plugs into the light assembly.
How do you clean the contact connector?
I love you man thanks I have one named sunny here and it's module 2016 and I had the same Issue as exact the pervious owner has changed the transmission range sensor and it still shows up and actually also the gas consumption is a really high and then I found your video I checked the bolds and actually I found that the whole connector is has some burn at one of the pins I have to change the whole tail-light along with the connector
Differentials are something I really wanna get to get good at I’ve done one on my own pick up after paying someone “who knew” what they were doing only lasted 500 miles it’s good money once you know how to get one done in a hour or two took me like 5 days to get mine at spec on back lash pinion depth and etc but since then I’ve driven 20k miles of harsh driving off roading and burnouts no growling have done 2 services and checked the gear mesh it’s still perfect. One of the proudest moments I’ve had in my 6 years of being a mechanic I am now 21 did it when I was 19 started when I was 15 at a local trans shop.
I swear, today for some reason the pns switch has been a hot topic no matter what the make of vehicle. I asked my doctor about it and she said there are more than a thousand TSBs on the pns switch. She said when it acts up to just exorcise the pns lever until it goes into drive successfully.
Congratulaciones máster for excelent explanation and diagnóstics, I am learning more with your videos, greetings from ciudad de Mexico, muchas gracias for sharing this great information
The hesitation part is probably the pcm seeing the brake switch on when you're hitting the gas. It thinks it's a runaway and cuts fuel. That's if you had a back feed from the tail lamps to the brake lamp circuit from corrosion or short in the tail lamps board.
My thought exactly!
Very cool
Back in the 1970's the only CVT around were the DAF transmissions on the small 340 Volvo's from their Dutch factory. These transmission used external rubber drive belts with variable pulleys. The transmiission was mounted in the rear of the car just ahead of the rear axle. The two external belts linked to very large vee pulleys on the left and right drive shafts. I went out to a house call on one with no drive. Put a rope on the car and moved it 10 yards only to have one of the pulleys fall off on to the road. Fix was simple only parts required were a new nut and locking washer.
I WORK ALONE AND DO A LOT OF TRAILER BRAKES AND LIGHTING ON THEM. MY BRAKE DEPRESSOR IS A HARBOR FREIGHT BAR CLAMP WITH THE ENDS REVERSED. $ 5.00 FOR A SHORT ONE TO LESS THAN $10.00 FOR A 2 FOOTER. CAN WEDGE UNDER DASH OR AGAINST THE SEAT. SLIDE IT TO FIT CLOSE AND THEN PULL THE HANDLE TILL TIGHT. HAS AN EASY RELEASE. WORKS BETTER THAN A SCREWDRIVER OR 2X4. ENDS ARE ABOUT 4 IN. LONG SO NO DANGER OF PUNCHING HOLES OR GETTING GREASE ON THE SEAT. WORKED SO WELL, I SPLURGED AND GOT AN 18 INCH ONE TO MAKE A 3 PIECE SET. BEATS HECK OUT OF THE LISLE TOOL AND A LOT LESS MONEY.
These CVT's are everywhere these days and new seemingly is heading in that direction. I service them all the time. The "WeberAuto" Channel has some great video on the subject.
I do think I will take the Fendt Vario over the banded CVTs though... A lot less likely to break due to metal fatigue.
The best brother brother combo besides me and mine Keep it real I miss this with mine Thank you. Caleb had added the fun
I got a 2015 Versa check engine light was on but went off before I got to mechanic they scanned anyways was a battery code and abs but they couldn’t find anything wrong. Yesterday I noticed when shifting no indication on dash of gear I was in and today the check engine light back on. Went to tell mechanic as I just got car back yesterday and he scanned again said it’s a transmission sensor code he said would need further diagnostic. Car runs fine so fingers crossed 🤞🙏💫it’s something easy like this . Thanks for sharing ❤
In my opinion CVT transmission is similar to a snowmobile Transmission where you have 2 different size pullys when one will squeeze expanding the diameter the 2nd one expands changing the circumference of the pully to smaller and not saying there's a belt inside the transmission But similar
Exactly right, although in passenger vehicles the “belt” usually consists of hundreds of metal clips strung together on the circumference of an inner metal band. When they break it makes a MESS
Thanks - I was just going to post the same thing. Only thing I'd add is, it's like a 10-speed bicycle in the way it works, only without set gears to engage. When your pedal sprocket is big and the wheel sprocket is small, you haul ass and pedal slowly, but can't climb hills very well. When the pedal sprocket is small and the wheel sprocket big, you pedal fast and go slow, but are able to climb steep hills with a heavy load with minimal effort. You can think of automotive, snowmobile, and ATV CVTs as infinitely variable 10-speed bicycles with no gears.
Nissan tech here, it's never a pnp switch. Always the rear tail light circuit board or loose pin fitment at the connector.
yes thats true,that versa on middle east is Nissan Sunny.tailgate circuit board
@Ls Juan but is it necessary to replace the whole assembly like the dealership did with mine?
You were talking about the CVT transmissions... My first job was for Saturn that had HUGE problems with CVT transmissions (like all cars with CVT transmissions) and they had us replacing the internals. But everything came out in one piece and got swapped out by removing the side cover. But yeah, there is no rebuilding the CVT internals that I have ever seen done.
But it is a cool setup. But im with you. I want nothing to do with rebuilding one.
I feel your pain. Defeat sucks. Look forward to the follow up vid. Was really looking to you finding the prob. Lesson.....service info key! By the way your items for sale at scanner danner amazon are great. Thx
No follow-up yet. It's been 6 weeks since bulb replacement
Right....Continuously Variable. A friend built a drive of v-belts that was continuously variable to power his small lathe that could adjust speed while the lathe was turning.
Love these videos ,they have gotten more funny with this editing,.
You best teacher in youtube
The first 10 mins felt like a show there were some nice comedy moments haha good videos as always thanks again for making them!
Continuously variable transmission. Basically a pair of inward facing cones for input and another for output and a high strength belt connecting them. the input cones move apart and the output cones move together so that the belt is on a smaller part of the input side cones and bigger part of output side cones to increase gear ratio. Since it can be at any points on the cones, it doesnt have set ratios, itll just slide continuously, slightly increasing the ratio the whole time.
I had the same problem last week.
- Started with the slip indicator turning on.
- Diagnostic result was P0705 (1/3)
1. PNP Switch/ Circuit.
2. Shift Position Sensor Circuit.
3. Transmission Range Sensor "A" Circuit.
- Then I noticed on the dash Transmission Shift Indicator Position that when I shifted to (D)rive the letters will disappeared, but will appeared only when I went back to (R)everse which sometimes also will dissapeared.
- After watching your awesome video, I checked my tail lights. In my case was the right one. When in reverse, was completely off.
- After I changed the light bulbs everything is back to normal, except my check engine light is on and gives back the same diagnostic result.
How can I reset it, so the check engine light is off?
Thanks for the video.
Drive it a few more days. It will go out on its own if that was your only problem.
@@ScannerDanner I did not have any issues after your reply. However, now on my left tail light the left turn light bulb went out. I replaced and still is not working. I used a working bulb to make sure it wasn't the new bulb and still no luck. Both brake and reverse lights work on that side (left) but no turning signal. Should I get a new rear taillight socket assembly? Where can i get one? or How can I test it if it is getting any power?
Thanks in advance!
Yeah another gentleman asked my same question why you didnt check the connector. Which always has a chance of a problem. I came across this same issue. Worse part is that its a simple circuit. Anyways i found that the place at the male connector melted for one reason or another and two contacts were touching by thousands of a inch lol so change the tail connector that fix the problem. Been a year customer never complained again!
So thanks to your video I found the attached pic. Will order the part and see what happens.
That was a strange one! A TSB for tail lights causing a transmission code. Nothing shocks me anymore in the automotive world! Literally thousands of failure modes ...
I hate Nissan's too for every reason you showed here! Wrong service info, and SLOOOOOW navigation with the Autel. I mean slower than dial-up internet slow! It's ridiculous. I dread whenever one of these shows up here, which thankfully isn't too often. I wouldn't own one if it were given to me! Headache central. I have enough trouble with my Silverado! My stainless Corsa cat back just cracked in half right at the flex joint yesterday. Literally one thing after another with that toilet. Installed a new transmission a few months back after losing 3rd and 4th. Just turned 106k miles on the way home. Guess I can't complain too much - got 14 years, 104k out of that exhaust system.
Great stuff as always, fellas.
WOW! Good video on "mysterious" problems
CVT is basically a glorified snowmobile transmission. its got a big v belt and 2 variable diameter pulleys that change diameter by contracting/expanding with rpms
I watched this whole vid before I noticed the nissan joker in the thumbnail which made the context a lot funnier 😂😂😂
Haha that's my editor (my son) he's awesome
PROBLEM FIXED: I own a 2015 Nissan Versa sedan and had the exact same symptoms including the gear position next to the odometer disappearing. At 27K and 40K, the CVT transmission was replaced under warranty. The P0705 issue started at 85K miles and I didn't fully diagnose the correct fix until 105K miles. I tried swapping the tail light circuit boards from another Versa, pushing wires (feeding into) the connectors, taking out and turning the connected tail light assemblies to twist the wiring to make better contact, changing the transmission sensor (twice, maybe 3 times), resetting the engine light each time. The code would go away and then always come back. Then, I identified the real issue was the loose female metal "pin grabbers" inside the female tail light connectors. The pins on the harness do not grab the pins on the tail light assembly tightly enough, throwing the code. It has nothing to do with your transmission. Rather the cost saving effort in perhaps a common ground or other wire between the transmission sensor and tail light wiring. Hence, you have signal loss, triggering the check engine code. I took a pointy tool (like a screw driver except ending in the point). You have to use a tool with a strong pointed end. And placed it into the female connector, pushing each of the "grabbing" connectors (top and bottom metal) closer so they'd grab the male connectors better. Now at 110K miles, no check engine light and I don't expect it to return. I didn't bother resetting the code this time and the check engine light went away on its own a couple thousand miles ago.
Great tips! Thanks for sharing and glad you fixed it.
Hey its like Nissa 🏆.
Not good, need show them there place.
Great Video. Love from India 🇮🇳
All the time I was shouting at the TV for you to check the connector on the back of each lamp cluster.
No matter what brand, they're notorious for burning up the ground connection as the stamped part of the cluster is galvanised steel whereas the harness connector is brass or similar.
Direction of current flow, sum of current from all lamps, a little moisture and you get accelerated corrosion then they melt due to high current through a high resistance.
My guess is fault sets when direction indicators and brake lights are on at the same time.
What does it need to see a high? Maybe only 5 Volts on a 12V circuit?
Very nice
Mine was on a 2008 Nissan Altima figured it might be the same problem what like it was a great help
At 25:10 the left light was definitely dimmer. I believe you had a short feeding another light in the harness. Possible cause was pinched wires from a previous bulb change. When you moved the wire you made the short go away for now. This will come back when the short reconnects and drives the reverse to 12 volts will in PND.
From my memory, that bulb was still dim, even after removing the taillight assembly. I need to go back and watch. Caleb may have had an edit there?
It's been 5 or 6 weeks since changing the bulbs with no fault. Thanks!
Just went back and watched and I made a big mistake. One where we all wouldn't be debating this dim bulb cause.
I should have tested that circuit with the reverse lights on. In fact I shouldn't have even unbolted that assembly without having the reverse lights on smh. I missed my window.
@@ScannerDanner you were just following tech bulletin looking for corrosion. Only hindsight was it a mistake because it wasn’t corrosion causing a short. The genius was understanding why the problem was in the light with the information on hand.
Thank you for your honesty; on the transmission and Differential! Lol
Sounds like my job. I normally have allison schematics not OEM wiring diagrams. Make it interesting to say the least.
tail lamp assembly water intrusion, first thing I think of? it's corrodes and bridges tail to brake filaments enough to back-feed the brake switch circuit and trigger the codes, possible while coasting a long ways off highway ramp/downhill
** watching further and seeing the corrosion location in photo's, it could be tail/brake back-feeding the reverse or tail/reverse back-feeding the brake circuit or more then one being back-fed via poor ground! (assuming connector is at bottom of those lamp assemblies) which it kind of looked that way by amount of traces.
also. poor bulb to housing ground could allow tail to brake circuit back-feeding, assuming the brake switch directly feeds the bulbs and TCM/BCM/ECM. I forget what the diagram claimed or lied about now. multitasking lol
and now thinking further, a simple bad filament inside brake/tail bulb could break off the ground side and bridge together, again back-feeding the brake circuit.
**also filaments sagged and touching in a shared tail/brake bulb.
really a big can of worms there, but that's the stupid things which my mind figures out pretty fast when I focus on it, but you cannot win them all in a hurry!
Hey Paul I have your book and it’s awesome. Thank you. just to add to your complaints with the Mitchell’s diagram, I had an 18 Hyundai Santa Fe for a can bus problem. Diagram was a big liar and doesn’t even show you where the splices are. I found a splice near the engine compartment and the diagram says that it goes to a vacuum pump, blind spot and etc can lines but the car doesn’t even those 😂 the best part yet, the pin outs at the DLC aren’t even correct and the wires aren’t even the same colors as what they’re showing! 🤦🏾
When you look at CAN bus wiring. Try to find the factory diagram for those, not the re-drawn version. They started providing these factory diagrams on the newer cars for us.
Yo tenía el mismo carro con el mismo DTC y el problema era el BCM , y también el carro no respondía bien a la hora de acelerar al poner la direccional Izquierda, saludos teacher Denner
Saludos German, como verificastes que era el bcm?
i have the p0705 code on a 2015 scion tC and idk if watching this is gonna help me or not yet cuz im only 1 min into the video but i already like u lol SUBBED
😀 nice! Thank you. Did it help you? Not sure if the scion reverse light circuit is like this Nissan on not
I have a couple nuggets to share with the classroom. I noticed that you pulled codes and then you complained that you didn't have freeze frame data later. You should be able to save the freeze frame data onto your Snap On scan tool. Then you can erase your codes and still have something to fall back on. It's a bit of a pain in that they're not user friendly in writing file names. Finding them has been kinda rough and then understanding what you're looking at can be confusing because they'll show the freeze frame data like it's just live data PID's. They do transfer easy to a PC for easier reading on Shop Stream Connect, though.
I also did some snooping for OE wiring diagrams. It turns out that Mitchell did the best they could with what Nissan gave them. Nissan never added any splices to their diagram for the CVT controls to the reverse lights. It would seem they ONLY added relevant splices for CVT control circuits. The reverse light diagram did include the splice and they drew it like a CVT and a traditional automatic range sensor were both installed. If you ever want to see it for yourself, page TM313 in the transmission section and page EXL68 in exterior lighting sections are where I found them.
I'm glad you posted this video for us. I've always struggled with Nissan's service info and wiring diagrams. This got me spending some time to get a little more acclimated with it. Nissan's service info is still as dissapointing as a system call, but I can find my way through the service info a little better.
Thanks, as always, and keep up the good work.
Can you send me those diagrams please? Send them to paul@scannerdanner.com
If you don't mind. Thank you!
@@ScannerDanner Sent.
1. I should have had the reverse lights on when I unbolted that assembly. A few of you mentioned a bad ground and that was a possibility. I think? But I have to look at the other lights (parking, brake and turn), if they share that same ground for the reverse light, then this absolutely was not a bad ground, at least not externally (wiring or connector). There would have been other lighting issues! (SEE EDIT BELOW)
2. Some others suggested that I prove the code by jumping the reverse light circuit. This is a good suggestion and I even mentioned doing something along those lines. I chose not to because I was dealing with incorrect diagrams and I made the mistake of taking that bulb out before ever taking a voltage reading on that bulb smh. So jumping things, I know the code is going to set. This is a legit TSB, that was never in question.
3. It's been 5 or 6 weeks since the bulbs were replaced with no issues. So I'm calling it a fix.
Wish I would have done some voltage checks on that circuit board WHILE the bulb was dim!! I'm sorry I did not and we are all left with questions 😪
EDIT!!! @Chris Wey mentioned about when the brake, turn and parking lights are on, with a bad (slightly in this case) ground will increase voltage on the reverse light circuit, causing a drive and reverse signal (and code) at the same time. If this housing only has one ground, this could absolutely be a condition! Maybe the dim bulb was a coincidence and me just moving the housing "fixed the bad ground (temporarily)
🤬🤬🤬 sorry guys. Feeling like a jack weed here. Time will tell
Good thinking but if the brake turn,park are on and voltage increase it still can`t show 2 gears on, because even tho it has voltage at reverse back feeding, the voltage would have no where to go because the pnp switch isn`t closing that circuit to relay that to the computer, the pnp can only select one gear at a time, so you might see some voltage back feeding but the lever isn`t connecting that circuit to the computer.
@@phareztrinimand remember the diagram was wrong! The reverse light circuit is tied into the signal wire that goes to the computer. So the range switch will be sending the signal that it is in drive and the elevated voltage on the reverse light circuit would be sending a false reverse signal.
Also remember that even though it is a 12v signal, the internal threshold will be much lower than that, to trigger a reverse signal recognition. Hope that makes sense.
I'm not saying this is what is was, as you would most likely have other lighting issues (dim bulbs, fast blinking turn signal etc.) But it is plausible.
Hope you can translate this my friend
Muy bueno tu video y aunque no encontraste la falla me gusto la forma y el proceso de todo
Congratulations my friend I’m already following you
And this is why when I see a person driving down the street in a new car or truck all I feel is pitty. Nice detective work.
After further review i waited till night had someone put the car in reverse and the left reverse light is dimmer than the right. Then i didnt tell them which one so i did the same thing and it is confirmed. Left light is dimmer . I was hit from the side a week ago. The accident definitely had an impact on it.
I've had 2 of these Nissans come through my shop with this DTC. I knew what the problem was as soon as I saw the video title. I knew I was going to watch this one fuck with your head 🤣 The brake lamp circuit back feeds into the reverse lamps circuit... which is shared with the PRNDL Reverse circuit! 🤯
The ones that I diagnosed didn't have corrosion either. They had a voltage drop across the pins of the harness connector for the ground circuit. Not the pin fit but the actual pin crimp.
Also, the factory diagrams show the circuits being shared.
I will add that I scoped the ground circuit voltage drop from the harness side of the tail lamp connector across to the lamp side. While manipulating the wires I saw the voltage fluctuated between 1-5v on the ground circuit across the connector with the brakes applied.
@@thirdeye530 how did you fix it? Replace the brake light assembly?
@@jameslussier6615 I ended up replacing both the harness connector and the brake lamp assembly.
Thanks Paul , You always the man .... Cheers Mate.
Such a good video lol! My saturday just got much more awesome 😎 keep em coming boys! Say hi to Danner for me!
I can totally relate to what you are saying about the cvt transaxles. I used to have the "privilege" of having to work on those. I think it was maybe Eric O. at South Main Auto who also says he dislikes working on Nissans with electrical issues because their wiring diagrams are horrid. 38:50, the pry bar as the brake pedal assistant, do you know how many times I have done that? Great minds think alike😁.
I don't know why manufacturers use those printed circuit boards on tail lamps or anywhere else on a car. GM used those on their pickups for years and had problems with them. I remember an instructor saying to me one time that for those to be effective the margin of error in manufacturing them has to be zero, in other words, probably won't happen. I like how that chart at 12:27 says two or more signals simultaneously stay on continuously. I'm surprised they didn't also say at the same time, 🤣.
6:43 to paraphrase the great eric o : "but its ok folks because we all know they are magical" lol
Am working on one of these one right now and the rev light left side flickers at times. Am going to take it apart to see if the socket has any corrosion. I don’t see any no water intrusion on the outside lens. The vehicle drives good and no problem just a annoying check engine light.
1:00 They sure took a plummet in quality. Have you ever used the factory diagnostic software, 'Consult 3+'? If there ever was a software that felt like it's being held together with tape and elmers glue, well this is it. Excruciatingly slow, too.
"They're not telling me why".... Yup, that's exactly the way successful technicians think. Good reasoning, backfeeding voltage from a shared ground could trick the computer into sending another misleading code. Unfortunately those who write these communications are more specialized in language translation than they are in auto repair.
In my experience, many service manuals prove they aren't any better at language translation either. It seems to me, they're much more concerned with safety and liability disclaimers. They could care less about how much you need an English to English translation after that. Read a Mitsubishi service manual for the full shock value. I expect to see something like this on a good day:
"Warning: Do not attempt to eat, or otherwise attempt to chew on the business end of your chainsaw for any reason. This is especially relevent when the chain brake is released and the chainsaw is at full throttle. Any attempts to put your lips and/or mouth on the chain at any time may result in personal injury"
"Warning: Do not attempt to put any amount of the rest of your face near or on the chain under the aforementioned conditions. Personal injury may occur.:
Step 1: Removing the Flibbersnart.
-Removing Flibbersnart.
@@shauno3697 🤣🤣
One thing you could have done is to use a Resistor between 12v positive and reverse light positive feed to see if it does pull the code or not.
@Scannerdanner I have recreated a problem that a friend/customer in this similar situation by brakes on marker light on and a turn signal on, so if you ever get this car back that is worth a try and I did find the loose wire to give a rapid flash. How and why it did it but it’s worth a try and it’s free for 20 seconds
Sounds bad ground related then, as other have stated. It's been 5-6 weeks since bulb replacement, so we will see. I'll definitely update everyone. Thanks!
@@ScannerDanner yes I believe that’s what it was I know it was a loose wire
i heard about a merc that would not start because both rear brake light bulbs where out, i didnt look at the car so im not 100% sure if that was a thing or not.
I once had an issue where the plastic insulator on the bottom of the bulb cracked, then a direct short to ground formed inside that crack. The fuse would blow as soon as the bulb circuit was activated. Maybe that happened here, but the short wasn't direct, so it wouldn't blow the fuse. If the issue happened in reverse, and the short circuit was largely pulling the reverse circuit to ground, the TCM would have received no inputs as to the gear position. It sounds logical at that point that the PRNDL indicator would immediately go blank and set the code. The code setting criteria specified that it will set if it receives two high signals at the same time, but it doesn't mention what happens if all signals are low at the same time.
@scannerdanner
I see you too are a man of exquisite food taste
@ScannerDanner 2016 versa sv cvt, solid yellow cel came on. code read p0705 at az. Rear drivers light had issue, changed bulb Left tailight had issue, replaced bulb-didn’t fix, took bulb out, wiped off circuit board and put bulb back in-fixed. While checking the fix, passengers tail light issue presented itself-replaced bulb, fixed it. Then it went out again. Also noticed that Gear selection illumination on dash went black when I put it in drive. Wiped off circuit board (even though it looked fine), replaced bulb. Fixed! Gear selection illumination on dash went back to normal as well. I really want to have the code erased. If this problem was caused by the tail lights-and it comes back-could this cause me to be stranded? Thank you for your video! There isn't much on the internet about this at all!!!
Ground pin for the left brake light connector. Is probably burnt. Ground pin on the tail lamp board is probably also melted/crooked
Nothing burnt on this one my friend 😉 At least not that I saw.
@@ScannerDanner idk if i missed it in the video but did you take out the yellow locking piece that holds the pin in place on the connector? The connector itself doesn't usually show up black but when you take the locking tab out you can see the pins are spread and the connector is usually melted a little.
Thanks a lot team Danner, another interesting video =)
Just too let you know. My 2015 Nissan Versa would not take gas at all.. I would turn off engine several times then it would finally go. Took for diagnosis test only issue found was a brake light right side out. Which I had replaced 2x already. Replaced it and have not had that issue since has been 5yrs.
Client calls : I have a misfire..............Me: Sorry .........IT SUCKS TO BE YOU
🤣🤣
I was just wondering 💭 why didn’t try moving the shifter.. however it was very interesting 🧐 👍🏼
Not sure what you mean? I did that a whole bunch early on in the video
Awesome video. Did they never come back? I have a friend had similar issues on a 2011 Rogue Krom except she’s had “parts changers” do 750$ worth of work incl range sensor. Yet her code comes right back every time. I’ll see if we can scope out those tail lights.
No sir.
Paul pulls out his glasses (sword noise) 🤣🤣🤣
These sounds effects are priceless 😂 Caleb is on fire 🔥 with these video edits