POV Surfing (raw) | 1-2ft Glassy Sydney Beach Break Wave Australia
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- Опубликовано: 11 сен 2024
- Sneaky session with Hugh - Started out surfing this really rippy bumpy bank and as the crowd filled in I paddled up the beach in search of another wave. When I got there I rewarded with a 1-2ft crystal clear glassy peak and only 2 people surfing it. We took turns taking these super fun little perfect waves.
Gear used:
DHD Phoenix 5'10 35L
FCS II Filipe Toledo Air Core in Large
FCS T3 Wide Tail Pad
FCS Helix 6ft Comp Legrope
GoPro 8 @ 2.7k 60fps Super View
Rip Curl Flash Bomb 3/2
Ho Stevie 3/2 Steamer
O'Neil Hyper Flex Spring Suit
FCS Cool water wax
Ho Stevie GoPro lanyard
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#glassy #crystalclearwater #surfingAustralia
4am. California. Insomnia. Random video. This was a great watch. Subscribed.
Yeah Wes thanks mate! Hope you got some sleep in the end. Appreciate you tuning in
I started surfing here (north San Diego county) around 2005 when I got stationed here. Spent a few years enjoying what I could; good enough to catch a few waves and not bad enough to drown in the process. Got all the magazines I could get my hands on in Iraq to satisfy. Once I had kids, the boards went up in the garage and haven’t come down since.
Now, medically retired at 38 and don’t have the body to get back in the water. I haven’t watched anything surfing in years but came across your video by chance the other night. Haven’t seen POV before. The first drop in I watched and seeing the board cruising down, gave me that feeling like driving on a dip in the road and got that same feel good stomach sensation.
Maybe some day I can fix my cardio and get back out. Until then, I’m a fan and will keep watching!
Edit: Thanks for coming to this surfing therapy TedTalk.
@@3Dwesley mate I really appreciate your candid message and can relate!
I stopped surfing for over 20 years and only just took it up again 2 years ago at the ripe old age of 41 - Super unfit, fat, using drugs and drinking way too much. Even though I surfed terrible when I started , it was still fun and gave me something to work towards. My point is, is it’s never too late to get back into it! (Obviously pending your medical history post military). It’s the whole reason my RUclips exists.
My life now is very different, no drugs, no drink, feeling fit and happy for the first time in a very very long time.
I’m super stoked that my videos brought back some of the feelings and memories you had when surfing. Makes me super stoked to read it.
Appreciate the Ted talk and hope to hear that you’re back in the water enjoying some waves soon.
Take care mate
Nice rides 🤘🏽I wish we could wear a spring suit in CA right now 🥶
Can you ever? Is there a Ho Stevie springy coming out? 🤔
Yewww brother some sick turns and slash
Thanks Emi, some fun waves about over the last few days!
Nice dude! Getting awesome!
Thank brother! Nice to be getting a few waves again!
Hi from Italy 👋 nice waves 🤙
buongiorno Nico. Thank you, glad you enjoyed!
Good moves and it looks so lovely and warm over there, not envious at all of course! 😂😂🤙🤙
🔥🔥
Haha it’s been a lovely weather here for the last day or two! Thanks for tuning in! 🙂
Man..your 1-2 foot waves are so much better than ours..)..do like the raw footage
Thanks fella, it was a nice little bank. Sundays vid is the same bank the next day and it was super fun. Just surfed 3-4ft manly
@@joshtraceysurfing yea..3-4 foot here isnt what it used to be either..)
@@middleagedshred 😂😂😂
We're riding with ya.
Yeah! Thanks for tuning in mate!
Thought that first clip was gonna be an air rev😂
Haha this is the fiction channel area, I believe you’re looking for Italo’s RUclips channel. You can find that in the non fiction surf channel area 😂😂😂
@@joshtraceysurfing 😂😂 I’ve been working on straightys for a couple of months and where I just figured something out recently is to hit the lip semi vertically so it throws you back towards the beach as you do a 90 degree turn with your board. I was originally doing the “Ollie” pop going along the wave but now I have started to hit the close out and let the lip throw me up and back towards the beach. It’s so much scarier than before flying toward the shallow flats
@@ETYSURF haha I know what you mean, for some reason I end up pancaking when I do that haha. I’ll get one, one day. I’m like you, I just want to boost a big straight air and land.
I’d love to try a wave pool that is set up for airs. I reckon you’d have them on lockdown in a day
@@joshtraceysurfing yeah 100%
@@ETYSURF you might need to pop across the pond to Switzerland and hit their wave pool
Is that dee why/longy?
It’s where you filmed this ruclips.net/video/ezBkeJ86P00/видео.html
alway cool sized wave in your spot =) seem very fun , very fun rides ! yewww when i see the amount of cool spot in aus, between foil and surf it's make me crazy lol. i checked the price of the house and it's quite expensive ! australia become very expensive it's seem.
Yeah we are pretty spoilt for choice for waves. Even more so when you get away from Sydney.
Yeah house prices here are out of control! Actually the cost of everything here is out of control hahah.
Just come for a visit, I’ll take you surfing
@@joshtraceysurfing thanks for the offer josh 🤙🏄🙋
@@youdig-detection je vous en prie