You spent twenty minutes giving warnings about this job. Meanwhile I was able to crawl underneath mine and swap the parts before you are done talking about some damn plastic rivets. Just go under the vehicle with a jointed extender on your impact and take out the two bolts and replace it.
the diagnosis of the problem was great and full of information im having the same issue on my 01 dakota quad cab . im actually just swapping parts from my 02 dakota aka donor truck since the o2 has a blown transmission. hopefully soon ill have it up and running
That's me, shade tree, I really appreciate people who take the time to teach me something. I tell the under achievers at work all of the time : Step up and learn something because other people are not going to carry you all of your life. Very few listen and of course they work a lot less. That is what is called the intermediate steering column correct? I have some slop so I want to try this first. The rest under is good.Some work has been done already, wheel bearings, strut mount bushings, control arm with a bad ball joint. that lower steering shaft looks rusty and not great.
Thank you fornthe video, I just recently bought a 2000 dakota as a project truck. Really low miles and coundnt pass it up, got new fenders and building a flat bed on it. Anyways I noticed this problem, found where it was at, ordered the part and then thought how in the f in I'm going to do this! So thank lots man!!
My town has a fastener store that carries everything under the sun, whenever i break bolts or lose an odd nut i just go there and they can give me tons different options/grades. They shouldn't charge too much or may even give it to you for free. search online for local fastener stores.
Good information, I have to do this job on one of my '99 Dakota R/T's soon. Love these videos on RUclips these days, very helpful. Your's is better than the one where the guy just hacked up the inner fender to gain access......facepalm!. I'm 55, and have done much work on cars over the years, several times reassembling old cars from the bare unibody, during restoration/restification. While your cautionary warnings are a bit lengthy, I'm sure it lit a bulb above one or two young heads.
I'll admit, I skipped about half the video, but good points were made and I appreciate the extra info, as someone who plans on maintaining my truck for years to come. (Or at least until the next time I get rear-ended by some one paying more attention to their phone than the road). Also, have fun taking your steering wheel apart, to anyone who skipped the end...
Thanks Mickey, try to save folks from lots of heartache. Had one guy tell me the video was not worth S&%& as it didn't show how to remove the bolt from the column. He is the type that shouldn't be under the truck/car.
Very nice repair Vern. I have a 97 Dakota myself. Extended cab 4 X 4. So far have not had to replace the steering link. Thanks for that tip on the ribbon cable. Have you ever had to replace the heater core? Man what a pain that is. Also my transmission came up with the dreaded over temp 2 years ago. Locals wanted 2800 to rebuild. I pulled it out and rebuilt it myself. Think I spent 550 bucks and that was including a new torque convertor and coil packs. Talk about saving money.Thanks for the video.buddy
Had a 93 that I truly loved. At 20 years old and 240K Miles it was still getting over 20 MPG average. Four wheel drive, 5 speed manual V6. Had to give it up when the frame rotted in half. New England Winters.
Good video I would recommend just using the plastic trim inserts (the christmas trees) when putting the splash shield back in place. Good quality ones can be reused.
Great video on the topic.Someone commented it doesn't show how it come out and come in.Is two bolts and guy said is pain in rear end to take out.Access to top bolt is the issue rest of the job dose'int required much imagination.Also he mentioned his problem at first time taking thing out and how he deal with it.Every situation is different.
great video and I agreed with you 100% about safety. I however do disagree about specification on what is being done and what tools are required. after all we come on here for help.
got a 99 4 cylinder dakota ,replaced the rack when i bought it in 2010. was suprised when the steering went slack all of a sudden.have the motor out so this should b a great deal easier to to without it in the way. the plastic power steering reservoir has developed holes and i cant seem to find 1 listed anywhere,any suggestions on where to find 1 ?
thank you. I have been looking for answers to why I get a little push back on long curve and hear a poping clicking noise when turn the wheel in my 04 Dakota. now that I saw this video I am going to investigate my lower steering shaft. Thanks
Great info on the pop rivets and tool! But I do wonder if your other pop rivet tool would have worked by just removing the the smaller size head and using the the tool with the threaded hole open. I found the Marsen 48350 part number number gave me the box with the qty 100. Using the Chrysler part number on the box gave me a plethora of opportunity's of quantity and jacked up prices. I might suggest you buy another box now as I only paid $15.03. (LOL) Thanks!
I just picked up an 02 dakota sport 4x4 3.9v6. Is this for all dakota years. Could I use a bungle cord hold steering wheel straight to prevent from turning. Just sitting at idle in park I can feel hear the steering do this, haven't replaced mine, yet. I'll go check out that store, add another tool to my box. I do have a hyper tough rivet gun from Wal-Mart, this wasn't why I bought Wal-Mart one bought it to fix gutters on garage, this will be a spare one. Sometimes good to have 2 everything things tend to grow legs an disappear sometimes when at looking least expect when you need that tool. 😆
Well said!!!!! Although FOUR jack stands for a single wheel is a bit extreme(one will suffice) it is always better to be safe than sorry. And a rule of thumb yes always put the wheel underneath the wheel just in case the rare event occurs. I ALWAYS put it on stands and have the jack as well should the stands give out. If I can I leave the wheels on the ground if I can fit under.
Question my steering is really hard like I don't have power steering it has some easy spots I have replaced pump rack and still doing it any suggestions
The whole point of the video was to show an easier way to gain access. The removal/install of the shaft is so simple it is self explanatory. The reason I don't go into a ton of detail is this work can be dangerous and someone who cannot figure out how to remove two bolts shouldn't be under a vehicle. Not trying to be a smart ass, just stating a fact.
THIS IS AN EXTREMELY IMPORTANT SAFETY ISSUE AND HE IS LOOKING OUT FOR YOUR SAFETY. PLEASE USE YOUR SKILL T REPLACE THIS STEERING SHAFT. THE TRANSMISSION LINKAGE PASSES BETWEEN THIS SHAFT AND THE STEEL UNMOVING FRAME. THANK HIM FOR MAKING THE JOB EASY!🤔
Good video. I agree on not wanting people to win the Darwin Award. I like to put the tire under the frame if/when I take it off so the truck lands on the tire not me if the jack stand fails. Tip: Snake the seat belt through the steering wheel and click it in to prevent the steering wheel from spinning while you work. I was also able to get to both top & bottom bolts from underneath with a series of long extensions on my '03 Durango 4x4 (4.7L). I didn't have to remove the inner fender well.
I have a 2000 dakota sport quad cab. When I replaced mine I went thru the bottom under the truck and used a ratchet with an extension to take the bolts out. Same for the top. Didn't take the splash guard out.
Joseph Killey they only make the whole shaft. They don't make just half cause some regulations forbid vehicle owners from replacing that u joint for safety reasons.
Paul Thomas yeah, i think i was given wrong number to order. Called Dodge dealership and gave em my VIN number. Whole shaft for 2wd. No biggie. Thanks for the reply!
I bought same dorman arm for 2004 dodge 3.7 has stock 3" lift. Dealer gave me part number that matches mopar or dorman part but dorman shaft is 2" short for me. I contacted mopar for specs see what extended length of shaft is whether it has different specs than dorman you and I have.
Hi Jonathan, I hate working on vehicles just for that reason. Hope Mopar was able to get you the correct part. This is really a shit design. Universal joints don't like being at such an acute angle. They should have designed the steering to have less angle.
It's not a hard repair. I soaked the whole shaft with WD40 every other day for a week. Came right off. I also clear coated the new one cause the Doorman parts rust so fast. Grease the shafts before reassembly.
Thxs I drive a 2006 dakota v6, according to the Dodge manual too change the 02 sensors ,upper/lower,the manual says too take on the right side ,you have too take the tire and the liner off, the manual doesn't say anything about the left side but when I looked at the left side it looked the same,so I went looking for wire extension and found them BBK 1118 2005 -2014 12 inches long,I will be doing the 02's this wkend,I'm hoping this will less hassle in the future.. Thxs again $50. for the extension 2 to a box
Hi Ed, the truck is a 2001. Liked my old 1994 better. But the frame rotted through after 22 years of New England Winters. Picked this up a couple of years ago.
spray those bolts down, wait a few, gently try to crack em, Spray down again, then back out fully. maybe 20 mins but this is on of those quick jobs that could turn into a career if you don't lol. it took me about an hour and i was able to re use my clips, defs gonna pick up the pack and tool though.
Thank you very informative. Have a 2006 Dakota 4x4, steering all of a sudden got a lot of play in it, load clucking noise when turning and out of steering fluid. Thought maybe rack n pinion when out, this vid got me to think it could be something different.
Loud clunking and lots of steering wheel play are the symptoms. But the missing fluid is another issue all together. The racks in these are known to have seals go bad, but this usually causes drips under the vehicle. Have someone turn the wheel back and forth and watch the universal joints.
After listening to the whole video, I don't think it's appropriate for you to 💪apologize for making comments about safety⛑️ and the importance☝️ of being careful🙏 if you try to do something like this for yourself. Juck'em if they can't take a Foke🤣 Enjoyed the video & I did learn a lot about my 2004 Dodge Dakota 🙏 I hope there are some more videos on the Dodge Dakota 🙏 I'm trying to suck up all the info I can on this 99k gift🎁 I was blessed with. 😇 I'm glad I don't have to worry about salt on the roads it's just in the morning dew & cooks off in the sun here in Tampa Bay😎
Hi Jeff, have had comments that I am an arrogant ass, I agree, but I am an alive arrogant ass. Watch out for the salt air near the shore. That will get them also.
Seriously man! Truly helped! I was dreading all the upcoming repairs on a $2500 Dakota I bought but still can't drive. 😞, But this should solve my steering problem for sure! And have you encountered any turn signal issues? I have a 98 lifted 4x4 3.9 5 sp. Thanks again!
check out your hazard/turn signal relay. should be located inside the drivers side fuse box area, inside the cab. My hazards were out on my 97 5.2l automatic but turn signals worked. I found a video on youtube detailing how to fix the relay on dodge/chrysler/jeep vehicles. This relay controls the flashers on your turn signals and hazard lights. All i had to do was re-solder a broken connection on the circuit board and everything works great now. Saved me $53 on a new relay
W&E Sales Co. sales these rivets pn.2266 25 to a bag, and also a lot more ,look'm up... I went to a auto body store and found them 8pak 50 in a box 100 also. W&E is in Newark NJ. and I think they are wholesale only?
well i now know how to remove the inner fender and that was helpful but the actual removal and replacement of the shaft itself was glossed over rather quickly, i would have been interested in the removal from the rack itself.
You have helped me. As far as insulting anyone, if they are that inexperienced as to be insulted, then there is a real good chance that they should probably be paying someone to do the job for them. Thank you.
Thanks Richard. Appreciate the comment. Had another comment today saying I was not clear enough on how to remove the shaft. I guess two bolts are just too many moving parts for some folks.
PSST, anyone who has a 1987-1989 Dakota (yes this includes those built in 86) they do not sell the steering intermediate shaft for those trucks. I'll did alot of research and finally got everything for my 89 truck. What you need is a 5/16" metal drill bit, an air-hammer/air-chisel, and some form of steel cutting tool... aka a sawzall, grinder with a cut off wheel... torch.. whatever. and your typical set of box end wrenches that you all have. Next here are the part numbers you need for real high quality parts not chinese shit you will replace in 2 years, 013449: Borgeson 3/4 - 36 spline x 3/4DD U-joint $70.00 013452: Borgeson 3/4 - 36 spline x 1" DD U-joint $70.00 450024: Borgeson Telescoping shaft 3/4 DD and 1" DD $70.00 The drill bit is to drill a hole in the shaft for the set screws/bolts that hold the U-joints on to the shaft, the shaft itself drills easily. The air hammer is for driving the pin out of the original shaft your replacing, at the top there is a pin in the joint below the brake booster/mastercylinder you can also use a hammer and a small punch if your wrist is very strong.. or just use an airchisel with a short pointed attachment. The lower point at the steering gear box I believe is just a nut that loosens a clamp and you can pry it appart with a screw driver careful to not strip the teeth on the steering gear... if not, again some love taps from a hammer or air chisel off (without touching splines) the next thing is there is a spring on the old trucks that needs to be compressed you can use a vice (wear safety glasses it can shoot out) and zip tie the spring multiple times once compressed then once the shaft is fully installed you can cut the zip ties and BAM.. its done. I'd suggest turning the wheel left and right several times making sure its tight and maybe go up and down your street then pull in and grab it with your hand to make sure it didnt come loose. Btw, paint it while its out of the truck... smells way better than an exhaust manifold burning paint off.
Hi Martin. The old column was aluminum castings and steel bolts. The combination corrodes the heck out of the bolts. The new unit is forged steel so I put fresh bolts in. My life depends on things holding together. Thanks for watching.
Well, I can see how plastic rivets were removed and replaced. I did not see the column removed or replaced, only the before and after. I didn't listen to the video, maybe there was a good explanation but the old adage says, a picture is worth a thousand words. I wonder how many words a video is worth? Just telling my brother that videos that only show the bad part before it is removed and the new part after it is installed, is only showing me what I already know. I need to see the work.
Another nice show! I am in total agreement. If you don't know the basics, do not try something advanced on your own. Earlier in life I was a mechanic, and hated trying to put the pieces back together when someone totally butchered the job!
Thanks Robert. I try to pass along those little tips that help a job go quicker. When someone knows cars/truck but has not fixed that model Dodge this might save him/her some grief.
I honestly don't know what constitutes a 1st or 2nd generation Dakota. My old Dakota had pitman arm steering, this one has Rack and pinion if that helps.
Typical comment from someone who after 12 years has ZERO subscribers, Three stupid video game clips posted. Probably lives in moms basement with his collection of "I participated" trophies. Sad.
good video enjoy the chlorine comment yes we need to get some chlorine in the gene pool sometimes and to anyone that may complain about those warnings they never got caught. You can't warn people enough about getting under a vehicle with just a jack, even with Mechanicals training you should know better then getting under a vehicle even with just one Jack stand keep the Jack there. Or we just pour more chlorine in the gene pool LOL I'm going to watch the rest of the video pretty informative
Love your narration, and the garbage pail round table approach to making a teaching moment. You definitely qualify for a seat at a continuation of Click and Clack. I am a Bostonian transplant to Colorado, so I miss the "personality" you only can find in New England. I have a client with a very very busy body shop, who dropped off a 2002 Dakota that was VERY vandalized. There was a huge box plus small boxes from dealer parts. I was all excited till I opened the carton, and found a junk yard column. So I found your YooToob, was hoping it was comprehensive COLUMN rebuild. But now I have something to pass on to the client. Your next video is on, and the gene pool remark made me spray coffee at my monitor.
Hi Jeff, Thanks for stopping by and the kind words. Have had comments that I am arrogant. I just figure I am being New England Honest. Was out your way working in Oregon about two years ago for a few months. Better say Ore_a_gun or they get real testy. There is some nice country out that way though. Thanks again.
The video was only to show tricks on how to access the shaft. If you can't figure out the rest you shouldn't be attempting this as your only going to hurt yourself or someone else. But then again I can tell from the from the high number of quality videos you have produced your an expert, and the 80 something positive commenters must be totally wrong.
Condescending ass is right. Thanks for the useless tips and the lecture on garage safety. Tools required: 13mm socket, a ratchet, socket extensions. Led light. I was able to easily get the lower bolt out from up top. The upper was also easy from underneath with a socket extension. I tightened it all back up from up top. I’m no 150 lb contortionist just willing to use my arms rather than insisting on sitting in a chair like I’m doing a painting. Wheel stayed on and the 20 minutes of taking the splash guard off and on is better served having a beer. Can also use the money saved from the rivets for more beer.
When ever I watch these videos I always read the comments. Someone always has some suggestions or tips to aid the video. Now I know what size wrench to start with and What type bolts and thread pitch to use, and now I know I may have a chance to do this without removing the plastic splash guard. I can always drop back to Plan A it Plan B does not work.
Have you watched your own video? What difference does it make if I have content or followers? I literally own a 1991 Dakota with steering problems and came looking for solutions. Didn't find any here. That's ok. If I have rivet problems I'll know where to look.
@@theradiomechanic9625 Look. I'm not a troll, I rarely comment online about anything. My comment was made in a moment of "repair frustration". Your channel actually looks pretty cool.
This video was nothing but a bunch of dont do this and dont do that. Where the hell was the “How To”!?!??!?? I know its cold and depressing where your at but this was hard to watch.
I always find it amazing that every negative comment is from somebody with zero content and zero subscribers. Nothing better to do then b**** and moan.
WTF bro!! You skipped the most important part!! I need to know how to take it off not how damaged your old part is!! 19 minutes of watching for you just to skip the most important part!! Appreciate you posting the video but I need to see how its removed!
I hardly ever leave a negative comment, giving the person the benefit of the doubt, your video was awful. I feel duped because this video isn't about replacing the steering components but how to use pop rivets and being negative. I get the safety recommendations, but your condenscending remarks should be left for your kids, not those of us who are giving it a go and doing our best to learn from others. After all, isn't that why you set out to make this video? I would highly recommend you give it another shot by making sure the spotlight is out of the way of the camera view, put the camera on a stand and show us that you are taking it out and replacing it, and also how to mark the steering shaft to line it back up. Thanks for your efforts though...
He is one of those guys that you regret asking a question to right after you ask it!!!!!
Yea, while what has to say is correct and actually solid advice the focus of the video bounces all over. I just need to to see the steering linkage
Well ! Great lesson on plastic rivets . Shaft removal not so much.
You spent twenty minutes giving warnings about this job. Meanwhile I was able to crawl underneath mine and swap the parts before you are done talking about some damn plastic rivets. Just go under the vehicle with a jointed extender on your impact and take out the two bolts and replace it.
the diagnosis of the problem was great and full of information im having the same issue on my 01 dakota quad cab . im actually just swapping parts from my 02 dakota aka donor truck since the o2 has a blown transmission. hopefully soon ill have it up and running
Now this is what I call 100% informative and awesome DIY replace and repair video with no confusing B.S.
Takes all kinds to make the world go round tuff guy
The more videos I watch about the things I need to fix on my Dakota the more I love my Honda.
That's me, shade tree, I really appreciate people who take the time to teach me something. I tell the under achievers at work all of the time : Step up and learn something because other people are not going to carry you all of your life. Very few listen and of course they work a lot less. That is what is called the intermediate steering column correct? I have some slop so I want to try this first. The rest under is good.Some work has been done already, wheel bearings, strut mount bushings, control arm with a bad ball joint. that lower steering shaft looks rusty and not great.
Nice rundown. Daughter in laws father came to me today about this issue 5 minutes ago. Thanks for the heads up.
Your welcome Gregory, simple enough job once you know the way in.
Awesome video, extremely informative. Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge.
Thanks for the tip about removing the panel above the wheel. I was really fighting getting access from below.
Thank you fornthe video, I just recently bought a 2000 dakota as a project truck. Really low miles and coundnt pass it up, got new fenders and building a flat bed on it. Anyways I noticed this problem, found where it was at, ordered the part and then thought how in the f in I'm going to do this! So thank lots man!!
Your welcome brother....thanks for watching.
the bolts needed for this are M-10 1.5 thread, took a while to find this info.
Johnny Redcloud so you can't find anything like that at home Depot? Where do you go?
My town has a fastener store that carries everything under the sun, whenever i break bolts or lose an odd nut i just go there and they can give me tons different options/grades. They shouldn't charge too much or may even give it to you for free. search online for local fastener stores.
Very informative and detailed video. Thank you very much!
Your welcome.
Really excellent explanation for Dodge Dakota Thanks so much!!!!
Very informative. Thanks for the indepth discussion on replacing this.
Good information, I have to do this job on one of my '99 Dakota R/T's soon. Love these videos on RUclips these days, very helpful. Your's is better than the one where the guy just hacked up the inner fender to gain access......facepalm!. I'm 55, and have done much work on cars over the years, several times reassembling old cars from the bare unibody, during restoration/restification. While your cautionary warnings are a bit lengthy, I'm sure it lit a bulb above one or two young heads.
Glad I could help.
I'll admit, I skipped about half the video, but good points were made and I appreciate the extra info, as someone who plans on maintaining my truck for years to come. (Or at least until the next time I get rear-ended by some one paying more attention to their phone than the road). Also, have fun taking your steering wheel apart, to anyone who skipped the end...
great video. Love the honest attitude. Remember, righty tighty lol...thanks I'm off to buy some parts...
Righty tighty until you run into a left hand thread. Sure they are rare, but they exist. Like on a propane tank.
Wow...you are amazing at describing what to do in these videos.
Thanks Mickey, try to save folks from lots of heartache. Had one guy tell me the video was not worth S&%& as it didn't show how to remove the bolt from the column. He is the type that shouldn't be under the truck/car.
Yes, that's for sure. Holy Smokes !!... not sure if that person should be working on lawn mowers either.
Excellent video.. thanks
Thank you and thanks for watching.
Plastic rivets are cool and all.. But I just needed a few tips on pulling the shaft
Very nice repair Vern. I have a 97 Dakota myself. Extended cab 4 X 4. So far have not had to replace the steering link. Thanks for that tip on the ribbon cable. Have you ever had to replace the heater core? Man what a pain that is. Also my transmission came up with the dreaded over temp 2 years ago. Locals wanted 2800 to rebuild. I pulled it out and rebuilt it myself. Think I spent 550 bucks and that was including a new torque convertor and coil packs. Talk about saving money.Thanks for the video.buddy
Had a 93 that I truly loved. At 20 years old and 240K Miles it was still getting over 20 MPG average. Four wheel drive, 5 speed manual V6. Had to give it up when the frame rotted in half. New England Winters.
Great video on pop-rivets! What about the shaft?
This video helped me change my shaft thank you very much
Hi uber, that's why we do them. Very happy it helped you out.
Very informative. I appreciate this more than you know.
You're welcome, and thanks for watching.
Good video I would recommend just using the plastic trim inserts (the christmas trees) when putting the splash shield back in place. Good quality ones can be reused.
Thank you.. well done.
Your Welcome, thanks for watching.
Awesome 👌
Great video on the topic.Someone commented it doesn't show how it come out and come in.Is two bolts and guy said is pain in rear end to take out.Access to top bolt is the issue rest of the job dose'int required much imagination.Also he mentioned his problem at first time taking thing out and how he deal with it.Every situation is different.
great video and I agreed with you 100% about safety. I however do disagree about specification on what is being done and what tools are required. after all we come on here for help.
OK, what exactly did you disagree with? I am always open to suggestions.
got a 99 4 cylinder dakota ,replaced the rack when i bought it in 2010. was suprised when the steering went slack all of a sudden.have the motor out so this should b a great deal easier to to without it in the way. the plastic power steering reservoir has developed holes and i cant seem to find 1 listed anywhere,any suggestions on where to find 1 ?
Thank you!
Your welcome Ryan.
thank you. I have been looking for answers to why I get a little push back on long curve and hear a poping clicking noise when turn the wheel in my 04 Dakota. now that I saw this video I am going to investigate my lower steering shaft. Thanks
Great info on the pop rivets and tool! But I do wonder if your other pop rivet tool would have worked by just removing the the smaller size head and using the the tool with the threaded hole open. I found the Marsen 48350 part number number gave me the box with the qty 100. Using the Chrysler part number on the box gave me a plethora of opportunity's of quantity and jacked up prices. I might suggest you buy another box now as I only paid $15.03. (LOL) Thanks!
I just picked up an 02 dakota sport 4x4 3.9v6.
Is this for all dakota years.
Could I use a bungle cord hold steering wheel straight to prevent from turning.
Just sitting at idle in park I can feel hear the steering do this, haven't replaced mine, yet.
I'll go check out that store, add another tool to my box.
I do have a hyper tough rivet gun from Wal-Mart, this wasn't why I bought Wal-Mart one bought it to fix gutters on garage, this will be a spare one.
Sometimes good to have 2 everything things tend to grow legs an disappear sometimes when at looking least expect when you need that tool. 😆
Well said!!!!! Although FOUR jack stands for a single wheel is a bit extreme(one will suffice) it is always better to be safe than sorry. And a rule of thumb yes always put the wheel underneath the wheel just in case the rare event occurs.
I ALWAYS put it on stands and have the jack as well should the stands give out. If I can I leave the wheels on the ground if I can fit under.
Question my steering is really hard like I don't have power steering it has some easy spots I have replaced pump rack and still doing it any suggestions
Lots of talking and warnings but he didn't actually show how the shaft came out or went in. Not very helpful at all.
The whole point of the video was to show an easier way to gain access. The removal/install of the shaft is so simple it is self explanatory. The reason I don't go into a ton of detail is this work can be dangerous and someone who cannot figure out how to remove two bolts shouldn't be under a vehicle. Not trying to be a smart ass, just stating a fact.
THIS IS AN EXTREMELY IMPORTANT SAFETY ISSUE AND HE IS LOOKING OUT FOR YOUR SAFETY. PLEASE USE YOUR SKILL T REPLACE THIS STEERING SHAFT. THE TRANSMISSION LINKAGE PASSES BETWEEN THIS SHAFT AND THE STEEL UNMOVING FRAME. THANK HIM FOR MAKING THE JOB EASY!🤔
Good video
Good video. I agree on not wanting people to win the Darwin Award. I like to put the tire under the frame if/when I take it off so the truck lands on the tire not me if the jack stand fails.
Tip: Snake the seat belt through the steering wheel and click it in to prevent the steering wheel from spinning while you work. I was also able to get to both top & bottom bolts from underneath with a series of long extensions on my '03 Durango 4x4 (4.7L). I didn't have to remove the inner fender well.
I like this guy, no nonsense, thoroughly explains stuff.
HI Nick, thank you for watching and for the nice comment.
I have a 2000 dakota sport quad cab. When I replaced mine I went thru the bottom under the truck and used a ratchet with an extension to take the bolts out. Same for the top. Didn't take the splash guard out.
Couldn't get to mine as the exhaust was in the way. Must be a small difference.
Was this on a 2000 2wd? Have a 2000 2wd and can only find the entire steering shaft. Not the intermediate shaft
Joseph Killey they only make the whole shaft. They don't make just half cause some regulations forbid vehicle owners from replacing that u joint for safety reasons.
Joseph Killey and no, I have a 4x4
Paul Thomas yeah, i think i was given wrong number to order. Called Dodge dealership and gave em my VIN number. Whole shaft for 2wd. No biggie. Thanks for the reply!
What year was your truck I can't find one for my 1992 dodge dakota 3.9
Thanks 😊
I bought same dorman arm for 2004 dodge 3.7 has stock 3" lift. Dealer gave me part number that matches mopar or dorman part but dorman shaft is 2" short for me. I contacted mopar for specs see what extended length of shaft is whether it has different specs than dorman you and I have.
Hi Jonathan, I hate working on vehicles just for that reason. Hope Mopar was able to get you the correct part. This is really a shit design. Universal joints don't like being at such an acute angle. They should have designed the steering to have less angle.
It's not a hard repair. I soaked the whole shaft with WD40 every other day for a week. Came right off. I also clear coated the new one cause the Doorman parts rust so fast. Grease the shafts before reassembly.
Thxs I drive a 2006 dakota v6, according to the Dodge manual too change the 02 sensors ,upper/lower,the manual says too take on the right side ,you have too take the tire and the liner off, the manual doesn't say anything about the left side but when I looked at the left side it looked the same,so I went looking for wire extension and found them BBK 1118 2005 -2014 12 inches long,I will be doing the 02's this wkend,I'm hoping this will less hassle in the future.. Thxs again $50. for the extension 2 to a box
Hi Ed, your welcome, and thanks for the info on the wire extension. Could save me some grief in the future.
Have you changed 02's on a Dakota in the passed,the manual did not specify between v6,v8 must be the same procedure.
Haven't had to change them on this beast. You should do a video...….
Went look'in and found these extension at JEGS P.N. 312-P5155535 $28.99 And they are OME
Great video especially cleaning out the gene pool, I so agree. I plan on doing this maybe this weekend, thanks for the tips!
Hi Jim, I can't remember if I mentioned it but the bolt has to come all the way out to get it off. Good luck.
forget the $16 plastic rivets and modified pop rivet gun, a couple of sheet metal screws do the same thing for about 30 cents.
Does this part number fit a 1992 dodge Dakota 2wd
Thxs, would of like too see you take out put in new part,also thxs for the tipp's on everthing . what yr is the truck??
Hi Ed, the truck is a 2001. Liked my old 1994 better. But the frame rotted through after 22 years of New England Winters. Picked this up a couple of years ago.
Thxs again ,I looked at my 2006 ,2wh drive, not sure but maybe I wouldn't have too move the wh. well..
spray those bolts down, wait a few, gently try to crack em, Spray down again, then back out fully. maybe 20 mins but this is on of those quick jobs that could turn into a career if you don't lol. it took me about an hour and i was able to re use my clips, defs gonna pick up the pack and tool though.
This requires something I usually don't have...Patience :-)
Thank you very informative. Have a 2006 Dakota 4x4, steering all of a sudden got a lot of play in it, load clucking noise when turning and out of steering fluid. Thought maybe rack n pinion when out, this vid got me to think it could be something different.
Loud clunking and lots of steering wheel play are the symptoms. But the missing fluid is another issue all together. The racks in these are known to have seals go bad, but this usually causes drips under the vehicle. Have someone turn the wheel back and forth and watch the universal joints.
Any suggestions on where I can get needed bolts? Thanks
Start with a real auto parts supplier. The ones who sell to the pros. Or McMaster Carr can have them to you next day.
important information
After listening to the whole video, I don't think it's appropriate for you to 💪apologize for making comments about safety⛑️ and the importance☝️ of being careful🙏 if you try to do something like this for yourself. Juck'em if they can't take a Foke🤣 Enjoyed the video & I did learn a lot about my 2004 Dodge Dakota 🙏 I hope there are some more videos on the Dodge Dakota 🙏 I'm trying to suck up all the info I can on this 99k gift🎁 I was blessed with. 😇 I'm glad I don't have to worry about salt on the roads it's just in the morning dew & cooks off in the sun here in Tampa Bay😎
Hi Jeff, have had comments that I am an arrogant ass, I agree, but I am an alive arrogant ass. Watch out for the salt air near the shore. That will get them also.
Seriously man! Truly helped! I was dreading all the upcoming repairs on a $2500 Dakota I bought but still can't drive. 😞, But this should solve my steering problem for sure! And have you encountered any turn signal issues? I have a 98 lifted 4x4 3.9 5 sp. Thanks again!
Mine is a 2001. My 94 had standard pitman arm steering, this POS has Rack and Pinion. Had the 94 for 20 years till the frame rusted through.
check out your hazard/turn signal relay. should be located inside the drivers side fuse box area, inside the cab. My hazards were out on my 97 5.2l automatic but turn signals worked. I found a video on youtube detailing how to fix the relay on dodge/chrysler/jeep vehicles. This relay controls the flashers on your turn signals and hazard lights. All i had to do was re-solder a broken connection on the circuit board and everything works great now. Saved me $53 on a new relay
Justin Simek seriously?! Did you find the link by chance?
W&E Sales Co. sales these rivets pn.2266 25 to a bag, and also a lot more ,look'm up... I went to a auto body store and found them 8pak 50 in a box 100 also. W&E is in Newark NJ. and I think they are wholesale only?
HI Ed, a couple of the auto parts stores here that carry auto body supplies have them. Cheapest is either E-bay or Amazon.
Good imformation
would that spring have something to do with my cruise not working
Not sure what spring your talking about.
The Radio Mechanic I think he means the clock spring.
Bolt size is a 1/2 inch
New England you say? I love the Beatles!
What year is your dakota?
2001
well i now know how to remove the inner fender and that was helpful but the actual removal and replacement of the shaft itself was glossed over rather quickly, i would have been interested in the removal from the rack itself.
Is that a Dorman shaft?
this a rivet review ?
Is that a 4WD or a 2WD Dakota?
You have helped me. As far as insulting anyone, if they are that inexperienced as to be insulted, then there is a real good chance that they should probably be paying someone to do the job for them. Thank you.
Thanks Richard. Appreciate the comment. Had another comment today saying I was not clear enough on how to remove the shaft. I guess two bolts are just too many moving parts for some folks.
PSST, anyone who has a 1987-1989 Dakota (yes this includes those built in 86) they do not sell the steering intermediate shaft for those trucks. I'll did alot of research and finally got everything for my 89 truck. What you need is a 5/16" metal drill bit, an air-hammer/air-chisel, and some form of steel cutting tool... aka a sawzall, grinder with a cut off wheel... torch.. whatever. and your typical set of box end wrenches that you all have. Next here are the part numbers you need for real high quality parts not chinese shit you will replace in 2 years, 013449: Borgeson 3/4 - 36 spline x 3/4DD U-joint $70.00 013452: Borgeson 3/4 - 36 spline x 1" DD U-joint $70.00 450024: Borgeson Telescoping shaft 3/4 DD and 1" DD $70.00 The drill bit is to drill a hole in the shaft for the set screws/bolts that hold the U-joints on to the shaft, the shaft itself drills easily. The air hammer is for driving the pin out of the original shaft your replacing, at the top there is a pin in the joint below the brake booster/mastercylinder you can also use a hammer and a small punch if your wrist is very strong.. or just use an airchisel with a short pointed attachment. The lower point at the steering gear box I believe is just a nut that loosens a clamp and you can pry it appart with a screw driver careful to not strip the teeth on the steering gear... if not, again some love taps from a hammer or air chisel off (without touching splines) the next thing is there is a spring on the old trucks that needs to be compressed you can use a vice (wear safety glasses it can shoot out) and zip tie the spring multiple times once compressed then once the shaft is fully installed you can cut the zip ties and BAM.. its done. I'd suggest turning the wheel left and right several times making sure its tight and maybe go up and down your street then pull in and grab it with your hand to make sure it didnt come loose. Btw, paint it while its out of the truck... smells way better than an exhaust manifold burning paint off.
why not reuse the old bolts from the old steering column?
Hi Martin. The old column was aluminum castings and steel bolts. The combination corrodes the heck out of the bolts. The new unit is forged steel so I put fresh bolts in. My life depends on things holding together. Thanks for watching.
Well, I can see how plastic rivets were removed and replaced. I did not see the column removed or replaced, only the before and after. I didn't listen to the video, maybe there was a good explanation but the old adage says, a picture is worth a thousand words. I wonder how many words a video is worth? Just telling my brother that videos that only show the bad part before it is removed and the new part after it is installed, is only showing me what I already know. I need to see the work.
you're right on target about the gene pool!
Another nice show! I am in total agreement. If you don't know the basics, do not try something advanced on your own. Earlier in life I was a mechanic, and hated trying to put the pieces back together when someone totally butchered the job!
Thanks Robert. I try to pass along those little tips that help a job go quicker. When someone knows cars/truck but has not fixed that model Dodge this might save him/her some grief.
is that 1st or 2nd gen dakota
I honestly don't know what constitutes a 1st or 2nd generation Dakota. My old Dakota had pitman arm steering, this one has Rack and pinion if that helps.
ask him what time it is he'll probably tell you how to build a watch!
Typical comment from someone who after 12 years has ZERO subscribers, Three stupid video game clips posted. Probably lives in moms basement with his collection of "I participated" trophies. Sad.
I love the part about cleaning the gene pool. and yes if you don't have basic knowledge then you shouldn't do it.
good video enjoy the chlorine comment yes we need to get some chlorine in the gene pool sometimes and to anyone that may complain about those warnings they never got caught. You can't warn people enough about getting under a vehicle with just a jack, even with Mechanicals training you should know better then getting under a vehicle even with just one Jack stand keep the Jack there. Or we just pour more chlorine in the gene pool LOL I'm going to watch the rest of the video pretty informative
Love your narration, and the garbage pail round table approach to making a teaching moment. You definitely qualify for a seat at a continuation of Click and Clack. I am a Bostonian transplant to Colorado, so I miss the "personality" you only can find in New England.
I have a client with a very very busy body shop, who dropped off a 2002 Dakota that was VERY vandalized. There was a huge box plus small boxes from dealer parts. I was all excited till I opened the carton, and found a junk yard column.
So I found your YooToob, was hoping it was comprehensive COLUMN rebuild. But now I have something to pass on to the client. Your next video is on, and the gene pool remark made me spray coffee at my monitor.
Hi Jeff, Thanks for stopping by and the kind words. Have had comments that I am arrogant. I just figure I am being New England Honest. Was out your way working in Oregon about two years ago for a few months. Better say Ore_a_gun or they get real testy. There is some nice country out that way though. Thanks again.
75% of this video had nothing to do with the title and you didn't actually show how you got it out or put the new one in.
The video was only to show tricks on how to access the shaft. If you can't figure out the rest you shouldn't be attempting this as your only going to hurt yourself or someone else.
But then again I can tell from the from the high number of quality videos you have produced your an expert, and the 80 something positive commenters must be totally wrong.
I want to see you take it out and put it in,not all the other waste of time info.
Don't you just love brake lines? What a pain.
Love brake lines, but then I like to have sharp sticks shoved under my fingernails. NOT. Thanks for watching.
That's right dealers kill you on their prices
you didnt show how to take out hello!!!!!!
Juan, two bolts. One on each end. You can see them in the video. It ain't rocket science. The hard part is getting to it.
Just remove the steering wheel and pull the column.
eye winker bolt
Pro-tip. Put this video on 1.5x speed if you have ever worked on a car before. Thanks for the upload but man this is a lot of extraneous info
Condescending ass is right. Thanks for the useless tips and the lecture on garage safety. Tools required: 13mm socket, a ratchet, socket extensions. Led light. I was able to easily get the lower bolt out from up top. The upper was also easy from underneath with a socket extension. I tightened it all back up from up top. I’m no 150 lb contortionist just willing to use my arms rather than insisting on sitting in a chair like I’m doing a painting. Wheel stayed on and the 20 minutes of taking the splash guard off and on is better served having a beer. Can also use the money saved from the rivets for more beer.
When ever I watch these videos I always read the comments. Someone always has some suggestions or tips to aid the video. Now I know what size wrench to start with and What type bolts and thread pitch to use, and now I know I may have a chance to do this without removing the plastic splash guard. I can always drop back to Plan A it Plan B does not work.
Right. Dont think this guy has too many friends
Have you watched your own video? What difference does it make if I have content or followers? I literally own a 1991 Dakota with steering problems and came looking for solutions. Didn't find any here. That's ok. If I have rivet problems I'll know where to look.
If you can't glean enough information from that to do the job you probably shouldn't be in there.
@@theradiomechanic9625 Look. I'm not a troll, I rarely comment online about anything. My comment was made in a moment of "repair frustration". Your channel actually looks pretty cool.
@@_uncle_bob I get it, we all have those days. No problems my friend.
This is more like a rivet video lol
Way too much time on the prep and not on the removal and replacement of the shaft.
This video was nothing but a bunch of dont do this and dont do that. Where the hell was the “How To”!?!??!?? I know its cold and depressing where your at but this was hard to watch.
bro you talked and talked and talked then didnt show the actual job lol.
Jeez, 14 minutes into the video and still talking about rivets and not the steering column?
I always find it amazing that every negative comment is from somebody with zero content and zero subscribers. Nothing better to do then b**** and moan.
Does not stop yapping about everything else except job on hand
I can tell from all the excellent, well edited, non existent video you have on your channel that you are an expert, and I feel truly chastised.
A little less talk and a lot more action..........Please.
WTF bro!! You skipped the most important part!! I need to know how to take it off not how damaged your old part is!! 19 minutes of watching for you just to skip the most important part!! Appreciate you posting the video but I need to see how its removed!
You talk way to much
If your replacing the part, stop your politics. Show the replacement of the part.
I hardly ever leave a negative comment, giving the person the benefit of the doubt, your video was awful. I feel duped because this video isn't about replacing the steering components but how to use pop rivets and being negative. I get the safety recommendations, but your condenscending remarks should be left for your kids, not those of us who are giving it a go and doing our best to learn from others. After all, isn't that why you set out to make this video?
I would highly recommend you give it another shot by making sure the spotlight is out of the way of the camera view, put the camera on a stand and show us that you are taking it out and replacing it, and also how to mark the steering shaft to line it back up.
Thanks for your efforts though...