Very motivational. My first b&w film i developed was 18 months ago i think the reason why was the fact all my excuses as to why not no longer worked for myself. I now needed a reason why i shouldn't only i failed to convince myself. I grasped the nettle & gave it a shot WOW! speechless. This became a kind of "Lets do more". This comlpeted the whole cycle from loading the camera to seeing your results. I found the whole process most pleasing & fulfilling. My first venture into colour wasn't without hesitation all from creating problems in my head that didn't exist. Colour as result i agree is more straight forward as film ASA doesn't enter into it. You can put any speed film into the same tank at the same time with the timing of the processing being the same unlike b&w. Temperature i found isn't so much more critical than b&w only more about maintaining a constant temperature for the developer the other chemicals have greater flexibility. Care must be taken to avoid any possible contamination of the "Developer" which i found personally to my dismay & can be an easy oversight. I've tried Kodks Vision 3 "Motion" picture film with the black "Remjet" coating with my first 2 or 3 attempts being horrible as the remjet crept onto the emulsion side ruining the neg's. I worked out what i was doing wrong by trial & error, i was being much too vigorous with the Remjet softener / remover. By using a very gentle agitation i achieved success with excelent images.
Great video! I've been using the liquid kit vs the powder kit, so I haven't had to mess with mixing the BLIX issues. The liquid kit is a little more expensive and I believe there are some shipping restrictions with the liquid chemistry (needs to be shipped by ground shipping only). Once the chemicals are mixed and you begin developing your film, I believe the developer only needs to be heated to 105 F, the BLIX can be used in the temperature range of 75 - 105 (according to the instructions) which simplifies the process even more. And, as you mentioned, the stabilizer can be used at room temperature Please keep these informative videos coming. You're doing a great job!
Great video, Travis. I've been developing my B&W for about 30 years, but I've always been wary of the colour! I need to get myself a sous vide and give it a go. Thanks for the kick in the pants!
Learned how to develop black and white from your channel. Bought some C41 chemicals recently and was feeling super intimidated to take on. Once again super helpful video and feeling really inspired to take on color processing.
Taylor Todd oh yea you got it! If you’re doing black and white get a couple containers and a sous vide and you’ll be well on your way! It’s easy peasy!
Another great Travis hahah so glad they all turned out. first neg at home 5 rolls at the sametime with my jobo had a unforeseen complication. but all neg turned out great need a new lid on the jobo. looks like has failed
Stumbled across this channel while looking for nikon lenses. My film photography has been put on pause when I found out last year that my local Walgreens accepts film but sends them out, gets the scans, prints them locally, and throws away the negatives. I filled out a mail order label on a box but couldn't put it in the newly modified blue mailboxes in the neighborhood with the narrow slit that can only fit letters. After some busy months I can't even find the exposed 35mm canister anymore that's important to me. Before it's developed, I feel film is so vulnerable. Meanwhile I got a mirrorless fuji using ancient glass and do not miss film at all. Sorry about the rant.
I have exposed film that is several years old ;) they usually process fine. Although I usually develop old exposed c41 film as b&w as the colours will have likely suffered due to the amount of time I left it unprocessed.
This video is great! So funny about what you said that with what we’re all going through and labs being closed.. it definitely gave me the push I needed to start developing at home finally!, couldn’t be more satisfied with doing it all on my own from here on out🤙🏼
Which film do you recommend for Lanscape in 35 mm. as well as for medium format 120 for landscape. I ask you these questions because I have seen almost all of your videos and I see that you have the knowledge and experience for this advice. Take care. All the best.
I'm not as experienced but for 35mm I think something like Ektar 100 is great for landscape, the low ISO gives you more aperture options for light conditions. Great for sunny landscape photography. People also like Portra 160 or 400, but the colors are more subdued than Ektar so depends what style you prefer
I always enjoy your videos and your point of view. But please put gloves on when making the chemical. If you look up the chemical data (MSDS) for the developer and Blix they are highly toxic and corrosive. The chemicals have many many many potential side effect (cancer and potentially loosing the function of your sex organs and such..) Just worried about your health from a fan and a chemist point of view. Love your video.. Please post new video more often. Thanks
Thanks for this Travis. Alway enjoy your clear, informative and inspiring videos. Looking for C41 kit now. Do you develop cinefilm and remove remjet too. Another video on this?
Why are your chemical temps at 105° and not 102° as per the instructions? Are you adjusting for heat loss from pouring the chems? I'm new to developing and am curious. I thought 102°F was critical for the developer.
Ray Lotier yea and because when using rotary process it calls for 105°. It seems that the temp for developer is ranging from 100-105 per the instructions
Cool video thanks! So no need to mix the powders using distilled water? Also, any guidance on how long the chemicals last? I don't develop that often and have done a total of about 5 colour films with my chemicals (same kit you used) that were mixed Jan 2019. Trying to determine if any thing I have mixed is any good or it all needs to be remixed. Cheers!
T L hmm that’s a good question. Based on my experience with developers. They not only go bad with number of developments but also with time. I would probably assume that the age of your chemicals has had a negative effect on their potency and would probs my recommend mixing up a new batch. That being said. A fresh batch should be able to develop 20-30 rolls no problem
@@TL-vt8uk I'm in a similar position. I develop only a few rolls a year, if that. What I decided to do was make up a new batch of developer each time I will need it and keep my fixer in an airtight bottle with as little air in it as possible. The fixer can last many months, the developer much less so. The actual time it will last should be in the datasheet for the developer. All this applies to liquid chemicals. Poweder based ones will last a very very long time as long as they are kept dry.
Do you still use stabilizer on new emulsions? I kept having problems with purple stains despite the fact that I've rinsed the film at the end with distilled water and Photo Flo. I've stopped using stabilizer and most of the problems are gone.
If you do that then you're washing away the final wash, which has antifungal and antibacterial components. If you want to something like that you can do photo-flo and then final rinse. However, both have surfactants so it's a bit redundant but won't hurt if you do it in that order... photo-flo then final rinse
You do mention a lot of ml and other metric systems with your jars etc, which is great, but you should also convert Fahrenheit to Celsius for us europeans watching.
Very motivational. My first b&w film i developed was 18 months ago i think the reason why was the fact all my excuses as to why not no longer worked for myself. I now needed a reason why i shouldn't only i failed to convince myself. I grasped the nettle & gave it a shot WOW! speechless. This became a kind of "Lets do more". This comlpeted the whole cycle from loading the camera to seeing your results. I found the whole process most pleasing & fulfilling.
My first venture into colour wasn't without hesitation all from creating problems in my head that didn't exist. Colour as result i agree is more straight forward as film ASA doesn't enter into it. You can put any speed film into the same tank at the same time with the timing of the processing being the same unlike b&w. Temperature i found isn't so much more critical than b&w only more about maintaining a constant temperature for the developer the other chemicals have greater flexibility. Care must be taken to avoid any possible contamination of the "Developer" which i found personally to my dismay & can be an easy oversight.
I've tried Kodks Vision 3 "Motion" picture film with the black "Remjet" coating with my first 2 or 3 attempts being horrible as the remjet crept onto the emulsion side ruining the neg's. I worked out what i was doing wrong by trial & error, i was being much too vigorous with the Remjet softener / remover. By using a very gentle agitation i achieved success with excelent images.
Glad to see you uploading content again, honestly kept me distracted from all the insanity .😎✊
That was awesome. I thought I needed to know all kinds of math formulas to develop color film.
Started developing color about 2 years ago. I agree! Easier than b&w, and well worth it. Glad to see you back.
You convinced me Color is the next challenge, but you explained it so it should be simple also, so glad you're back
Yup... 'it' was the push I needed to start developing at home. I'm set up for b/w processing. I love colour, so I've been making trichromes.
Great video! I've been using the liquid kit vs the powder kit, so I haven't had to mess with mixing the BLIX issues. The liquid kit is a little more expensive and I believe there are some shipping restrictions with the liquid chemistry (needs to be shipped by ground shipping only).
Once the chemicals are mixed and you begin developing your film, I believe the developer only needs to be heated to 105 F, the BLIX can be used in the temperature range of 75 - 105 (according to the instructions) which simplifies the process even more. And, as you mentioned, the stabilizer can be used at room temperature
Please keep these informative videos coming. You're doing a great job!
Great video, Travis. I've been developing my B&W for about 30 years, but I've always been wary of the colour! I need to get myself a sous vide and give it a go. Thanks for the kick in the pants!
Learned how to develop black and white from your channel. Bought some C41 chemicals recently and was feeling super intimidated to take on. Once again super helpful video and feeling really inspired to take on color processing.
Taylor Todd oh yea you got it! If you’re doing black and white get a couple containers and a sous vide and you’ll be well on your way! It’s easy peasy!
Another great Travis hahah so glad they all turned out. first neg at home 5 rolls at the sametime with my jobo had a unforeseen complication. but all neg turned out great need a new lid on the jobo. looks like has failed
thanks for all the very helpful videos
Stumbled across this channel while looking for nikon lenses. My film photography has been put on pause when I found out last year that my local Walgreens accepts film but sends them out, gets the scans, prints them locally, and throws away the negatives. I filled out a mail order label on a box but couldn't put it in the newly modified blue mailboxes in the neighborhood with the narrow slit that can only fit letters. After some busy months I can't even find the exposed 35mm canister anymore that's important to me. Before it's developed, I feel film is so vulnerable. Meanwhile I got a mirrorless fuji using ancient glass and do not miss film at all. Sorry about the rant.
I have exposed film that is several years old ;) they usually process fine. Although I usually develop old exposed c41 film as b&w as the colours will have likely suffered due to the amount of time I left it unprocessed.
This video is great! So funny about what you said that with what we’re all going through and labs being closed.. it definitely gave me the push I needed to start developing at home finally!, couldn’t be more satisfied with doing it all on my own from here on out🤙🏼
RumbleRodz13 hell fuckin yes! That’s what I like to hear. It truly is the only way to go 🙏🏻
is nice to have you back makeing videos, welcome back Travis :)
Good exposition on color film development.
Are you using the powder kit for cost reasons? I have only used liquid kits so far and they are so easy going.
please do more videos!!!!! Great video btw
Great video! Glad to see you’re back!
My analog chat group is curious if you have tried to fix the Jobo as they to have Jobos. Thanks PS Add a coffee filter in the funnel?
Which film do you recommend for Lanscape in 35 mm. as well as for medium format 120 for landscape. I ask you these questions because I have seen almost all of your videos and I see that you have the knowledge and experience for this advice. Take care. All the best.
I'm not as experienced but for 35mm I think something like Ektar 100 is great for landscape, the low ISO gives you more aperture options for light conditions. Great for sunny landscape photography. People also like Portra 160 or 400, but the colors are more subdued than Ektar so depends what style you prefer
I always enjoy your videos and your point of view. But please put gloves on when making the chemical. If you look up the chemical data (MSDS) for the developer and Blix they are highly toxic and corrosive. The chemicals have many many many potential side effect (cancer and potentially loosing the function of your sex organs and such..) Just worried about your health from a fan and a chemist point of view. Love your video.. Please post new video more often. Thanks
Thanks for this Travis. Alway enjoy your clear, informative and inspiring videos. Looking for C41 kit now. Do you develop cinefilm and remove remjet too. Another video on this?
Glad to see you’re back. Stay safe fam
hi travis, good to see your back again.
Why are your chemical temps at 105° and not 102° as per the instructions? Are you adjusting for heat loss from pouring the chems? I'm new to developing and am curious. I thought 102°F was critical for the developer.
Ray Lotier yea and because when using rotary process it calls for 105°. It seems that the temp for developer is ranging from 100-105 per the instructions
@@ForesthillFilmLab Gotchya. Thanks.
Great content
Cool video thanks! So no need to mix the powders using distilled water? Also, any guidance on how long the chemicals last? I don't develop that often and have done a total of about 5 colour films with my chemicals (same kit you used) that were mixed Jan 2019. Trying to determine if any thing I have mixed is any good or it all needs to be remixed. Cheers!
T L hmm that’s a good question. Based on my experience with developers. They not only go bad with number of developments but also with time. I would probably assume that the age of your chemicals has had a negative effect on their potency and would probs my recommend mixing up a new batch. That being said. A fresh batch should be able to develop 20-30 rolls no problem
Would the same recommendation go for my B&W chemicals?
@@TL-vt8uk I'm in a similar position. I develop only a few rolls a year, if that. What I decided to do was make up a new batch of developer each time I will need it and keep my fixer in an airtight bottle with as little air in it as possible. The fixer can last many months, the developer much less so. The actual time it will last should be in the datasheet for the developer.
All this applies to liquid chemicals. Poweder based ones will last a very very long time as long as they are kept dry.
Great job bro
Good to see you on again brother!
Would a magnetic lab stirrer mix your chemicals more effectively .great vid as usual
Sous Vide and chems finally arrived. Here we go baby!
A great video as always. Thanks :)
Do you still use stabilizer on new emulsions?
I kept having problems with purple stains despite the fact that I've rinsed the film at the end with distilled water and Photo Flo. I've stopped using stabilizer and most of the problems are gone.
Hi Travis, I have a question? Instead of using the squeegee isn't it a good solution to just do a final rinse and then a final wash with photo-flo?
If you do that then you're washing away the final wash, which has antifungal and antibacterial components. If you want to something like that you can do photo-flo and then final rinse. However, both have surfactants so it's a bit redundant but won't hurt if you do it in that order... photo-flo then final rinse
hello what is the name of the heating device ? i could not catch it ? thanks Daniel from france
danielbdbe it’s called a sous vide. Multiple companies make them but they all do the same job. So get the cheapest one you can find and send it!
I only shoot maybe a roll a month so I'm thinking it wouldn't be worth it as the chemistry would go bad before I got much use out of it.
are you still doing work on this channel?
first thing i'm going to do when this shit blows over: develop my own color film
You do mention a lot of ml and other metric systems with your jars etc, which is great, but you should also convert Fahrenheit to Celsius for us europeans watching.