I have been developing film during the quarantine and thought this might help out other film shooters wanting to develop at home! I hope this video will give you a start into developing C-41 negatives! Remember to wear gloves and develop in a well ventilated area! Happy developing! :)
A tip regarding storage bottles. Using the accordion bottles to collapse to squeeze out air, thus avoiding oxidation of the chemical, seems like a good idea, but it really is not, because: 1. As you agitate chemicals in the tank by inversion, particularly with the terrible design of the Paterson tank system, you are going to flush so much oxygen into solution that this concept is trivial. 2. The plastic used for these bottle is oxygen permeable, so a little more air inside to start with is trivial. 3. This style of bottle costs 2 to 4 times as much as other bottles. 4. The accordion folds inside will accumulate chemical deposits as you return used chemicals to the bottle. (As do all bottles to some extent.) However the folds prevent the bottle from being cleaned, so you end up tossing it out or getting cross-contamination of the contents. So, buy clear, amber bottles with proper chemical sealing tops for about $2 instead of this Cinestill crap for $10 each.
Nice video! Quick tip: Since you're hanging your film on your shower curtain rail, you could reduce dust in the air by running the shower and steaming up the room prior to hanging. It's saved me quite a bit of time with an air blower / photoshop to get hairs and dust off my negatives.
No hate man, but running the shower to steam up the bathroom seems wasteful. It’s better to use a spray bottle on a misty setting to get a thin layer of water on all surfaces. I mean we’re already using hazardous chemicals that taint the water supply 😅 lol Might as well reduce the water and heat usage haha
You nailed it. From someone who used to develop B&W film in school and remembers learning this process: this was textbook level info, yet digestible & accessible. Thanks dude. Solid tip on the accordion bottles.
Loved the content! Little tip to help in the flatting process: while hanging the film to dry, take an empty film canister and feed some of the excess/leader strip back into the canister, until the canister is secured via the film. This extra weight helps not only de-curl the film for scanning, but also straightens the film while drying, leading to a quicker and all around more efficient dry. Now we just gotta getcha to ditch the stabilizer for Photo Flo!
After so long of trying to find a more reliable video, you make it so f**king simple, i love it! I really appreciate it and im ready to now buy everything and take more notes from this 🔥
Here's my feedback! YOU DID GREAT! lol listen I love finding fellow reel dawgies out here on the interwebs. If you run across one of my shorts, I hope you don't mind my brazen disregard for details. I'm not trying to be a film photography blasphemer. Just trying to be me man. You're doing great talking about all the details. I'm in a sort of analog desert out here in rural texas. Trying to connect with reel film dawgies online. Subbed! See you on the scroll!
c41 is one of the safest developers to use, they are not toxic and people need to stop lying to others about it and potentially causing harm. The only film developer that legitimately is bad is D-76 for black and white.
Hazards 1. Formaldehyde is moderately toxic by skin contact, and highly toxic by inhalation and ingestion. It is an skin, eye and respiratory irritant, and strong sensitizer, and is a probable human carcinogen. Formaldehyde solutions contain some methanol, which is highly toxic by ingestion. 2. Succinaldehyde is similar in toxicity to formaldehyde, but is not a strong sensitizer or carcinogen. 3. Hydroxylamine sulfate is a suspected teratogen in humans since it is a teratogen (causes birth defects) in animals. It is also a skin and eye irritant. 4. Concentrated acids, such as glacial acetic acid, hydrobromic acid, sulfamic acid and p-toluenesulfonic acids are corrosive by skin contact, inhalation and ingestion. 5. Acid solutions, if they contain sulfites or bisulfites (e.g., neutralizing solutions), can release sulfur dioxide upon standing. If acid is carried over on the negative or transparency from one step to another step containing sulfites or bisulfites, then sulfur dioxide can be formed. 6. Potassium ferricyanide will release hydrogen cyanide gas if heated, if hot acid is added, or if exposed to strong ultraviolet radiation. Precautions 1. Local exhaust ventilation is required for mixing of chemicals and color processing. 2. Use premixed solutions whenever possible. 3. Avoid color processes using formaldehyde, if possible. 4. Wear gloves, goggles and protective apron when mixing and handling color processing chemicals. When diluting solutions containing concentrated acids, always add the acid to the water. An eyewash should be available. 5. A water rinse step is recommended between acid bleach steps and fixing steps to reduce the production of sulfur dioxide gas. 6. Do not add acid to solutions containing potassium ferricyanide or thiocyanate salts. 7. Control the temperature carefully according to manufacturer's recommendations to reduce emissions of toxic gases and vapors. Its better to stay safe than be sorry in the future. It builds up
forgot one thing, for SHEET film, you need the paterson 3-reel tank, and a Mod-54 to acomodate the 4x5" sheet size, or other options for larger sheets.
Thank you for this video!! I was looking for a quick guide to the c-41 color negative film development process. And I think your video covers a lot of really good points like getting distilled water to keep out impurities??? Genius!! You’re doing a great job creating helpful content good sir
Thank you brother! Glad you enjoyed it! It was the first video/tutorial i've done so it was a little rough around the edges but hopefully I was able to help you learn!
Nice what your doing, think about what your background is showing. I do like how you keep on the subject and provide images as far as how and what you need. Keep doing what your doing.
I shot the recent total Solar Eclipse on film and local big box store still offers remote developer service, but they only scan the film, they don't return the negatives. Going to give this a try, done BW processing in the past. CS41
Since you asked for critical comments, here you go: 1. Distilled water to avoid hard water deposits. Mixing the chemistry with distilled water will use a lot more of it, but will do nothing. The trick is to mix the last solution the film sits in, the stabilizer, with distilled water (and add a few drops of Photoflo). That solves the hard water problem completely. 2. I suppose if you already have one, you'll use it, but if you are just starting out and assembling basic equipment, do not get a Paterson tank. Uses hard (cheap) plastic, so easily broken. More importantly, the internal (huge) funnel traps a huge volume of air in the tank, When you use it for inversion agitation, its more like a cocktail shaker than a developing tank. At the minimum, it will significantly exhaust your chemistry and reduce its reuse. Also, the lid is infamous for blowing off the top of the tank during the blix cycle, which tends to build up internal pressure. (Invert that!) Better (and usually cheaper) choices: the AP brand tank, also sold by B&H and Freestyle as their "House" brand tanks. (Why do Paterson tanks appear in so many YT videos? Because nearly all of these videos are guys who watched prior YT videos, saw someone using a Paterson, and are just repeating without critical thought or experience. It's a herding thing. Moo!)
Great and clear video! 2 questions: 1. Do you rinse the film between developer and blix? 2. What can cause heavy blue tint on the scanned photos? Scanner is ok. Blue tint is the scanned photo. Thanks!
I’m old hand at B&W home developing, and even though I have all the equipment and chemistry to process C-41, I keep holding out for some reason. I’m hoping this video will kick me in the ass to get started!
I have developed 14 rolls in two weekends. I am so grateful to you and your video! These films are mostly 20 years old. I’ve had five bad ones. But the rest are memories!!! Thank you again!
@@sanleesnaps I'm planning on shooting 50-100 rolls of 120 in 2021 for a personal project. I'm super excited. Can't wait. However, due to the volume of shooting I'm planning, I'm considering getting the biggest Paterson tank so I can develop 5 120 rolls at once.
Hey, thanks for the video! I was wondering if you also stored the blix and the stabilizer back into the accordion containers after using them! If so, how often do you refill them with new ones? Do you also re-use them for about 14-20 rolls just like the developer?
Hey! I do store the chemicals back in the accordion containers after use. I usually try to develop them with 14-20 rolls as soon as I can. The chemicals expire so I'd recommend try using up the 14-20 rolls within 2-3weeks at the most. Let me know if you have any more questions, I'd be happy to answer them!
You should use it! C-41 film needs the stabilizer otherwise the image will degrade very quickly and very badly. The stabilizer acts as a hardener and preservative and a wetting agent.
Hey friend, thanks for the video ! I wanted to know how do you dispose of used chemicals after you've developed 15-20 rolls of 35, is it bad to collect all chemicals in one tank or do you have to seperate them in one tank for each chemical before you bring it to recycling center ? Thanks for your help !
Hi Sanlee, thanks for the video. I recently mastered developing bnw 120 film. I’m pretty excited to start developing colored films, your video is the easiest one I’ve seen so far to understand. When it comes to developer and other chemicals, is there a certain measurement of chemicals to add? Or just fill the tank ? For example when I develop bnw I mix the developer with water in a certain measurement same for stop and fixer, is it the same here? Thanks
Of course! for creating the chemicals it will depend on which chemical you use (Unicolor, CS-41, Rollei C-41). You just need to follow the manual guide for the measurements. When you are actually developing the film I don't mix my chemicals with water during the development process, I just use the chemical I created. Hope this helps!
Hey man, just a quick question. In this video, you developed 1 roll of film. May I know if the volume of the solution you used is only 300ml recommended for 1 roll, even if you're using 2-reel tank? Will the extra space in the tank during inversions induce air bubbles or anything into my chemicals due to all the sloshing around of the extra air with my chems? Thanks man! Great video.
Jobi thanks for the comment! The video of me reeling the film was an example of how you reel film in a patterson tank! I actually developed 2 rolls for the video. I would recommend avoiding developing single rolls because it can get messy but you can develop with one roll with the spool with the film placed at the bottom of the tank and using 600ml (treat it like you have 2 rolls). But ymmv sooo id still recommend two rolls at a time! :) hope this helped!
Its more efficient and your chems will last longer if you use the full amount of reels when developing because everytime the air is contacted by the chems the more earlier the chems will expire!
Hey! Glad I’m following you on Instagram and found this. I use the Unicolor kit. Been having issues with my highlights being blown out and just some overall graininess. Everything is properly exposed in camera. Do you think an incorrect temp would cause that? I used to use a sous vide stick to heat but have recently switched to just filling a bucket with hot water and measuring the temp as it came down. I also didn’t really measure the pre soak temp or use distilled water for that. I know the pre-soak was def higher than 102F.
Hey man! Of course, that may be due to the temperature, make sure that the pre-rinse is at 102F usually you wanna stay within 1F of the recommended temperature for the pre-rinse, developer and blix process. Also make sure to put the patterson tank back in a 102F water container after you agitate to maintain temperature of the film negative, the most important thing is that the patterson tank maintains the proper temperature. How are you scanning your negatives?
sanleesnaps I have an Epson V600 for scans. But...on my last roll I did exactly what you suggested for keeping the temp and the negatives came out good. So it looks like my temps were off.
This maybe dumb question. I noticed when I had the Sous Vide set at 102degrees and had my rinse water in a plastic container the water in the plastic container was of lower temperature. I'm thinking that the temp of the chemicals in the bottles would also be a lower temperature. Maybe because the plastic container wasn't closed? Would it make sense to set the sous vide at a higher temperature to compensate so that everything is at 102degrees?
This is actually something I should have talked about! I set my temperature to 104 on my sous vide now as I’ve found that it kept my chemicals all at 102 degrees. It may vary from sous vides but I’ve found that that helped me maintain temperatures.
@@sanleesnaps cool I actually followed your guide and results turned out okay. I was looking at the negatives through one of the phone apps and got worried thinking I messed the development process. Today I got them scanned and the scans turned out better than I expected. It is cool to finally see the pictures after developing them yourself!
David....Terrrific. I'm getting back into home developing and I never tried color when I first started doing it. It was always too complex for amateurs, I was told. Your vidieo is very helpful, so thanks.
@@sanleesnaps Thanks Was wondering, how did they do this(produced positives from negatives) in the old days where they didnt have computers? BTW: can you still buy black and white film? (If there is any difference between the color one, or can you stick a color film into black and white camera and would it work? BTW: why can you use red light safly while developing film without exposing it, but normal light does expose it?
Hi all, I’m confused and want to clarify something. So I’ve developed bnw film in the past during my photography a level where I was taught to always have the lights off during the development. I’ve seen quite a few videos where people put the dev, stop, fix n water into the Patterson tank without covering and turning off all light sources. Wouldn’t this create a light leak from the tank and affect the film? And if not, I can put my chemicals with the lights on once the tank is sealed after putting the film in?
I have been developing film during the quarantine and thought this might help out other film shooters wanting to develop at home! I hope this video will give you a start into developing C-41 negatives! Remember to wear gloves and develop in a well ventilated area! Happy developing! :)
@Marcos Jagger yasss im happy for you! Hope you got the results you wanted!
A tip regarding storage bottles. Using the accordion bottles to collapse to squeeze out air, thus avoiding oxidation of the chemical, seems like a good idea, but it really is not, because:
1. As you agitate chemicals in the tank by inversion, particularly with the terrible design of the Paterson tank system, you are going to flush so much oxygen into solution that this concept is trivial.
2. The plastic used for these bottle is oxygen permeable, so a little more air inside to start with is trivial.
3. This style of bottle costs 2 to 4 times as much as other bottles.
4. The accordion folds inside will accumulate chemical deposits as you return used chemicals to the bottle. (As do all bottles to some extent.) However the folds prevent the bottle from being cleaned, so you end up tossing it out or getting cross-contamination of the contents.
So, buy clear, amber bottles with proper chemical sealing tops for about $2 instead of this Cinestill crap for $10 each.
Easily the most direct, clear and informational video I could find on developing c-41. Bless
Thank you so much! Im glad it helped you out!
Nice video! Quick tip: Since you're hanging your film on your shower curtain rail, you could reduce dust in the air by running the shower and steaming up the room prior to hanging. It's saved me quite a bit of time with an air blower / photoshop to get hairs and dust off my negatives.
No hate man, but running the shower to steam up the bathroom seems wasteful. It’s better to use a spray bottle on a misty setting to get a thin layer of water on all surfaces. I mean we’re already using hazardous chemicals that taint the water supply 😅 lol Might as well reduce the water and heat usage haha
You nailed it. From someone who used to develop B&W film in school and remembers learning this process: this was textbook level info, yet digestible & accessible. Thanks dude. Solid tip on the accordion bottles.
Thank you! Really appreciate it!
I was thinking of trying C41, you explained the process well, thank you.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks!
Saved my life!!!!! I was so worried to check after and everything came out well, thank you
Glad it helped you!
I really appreciate you making this video. Very helpful! Thanks!
Loved the content! Little tip to help in the flatting process: while hanging the film to dry, take an empty film canister and feed some of the excess/leader strip back into the canister, until the canister is secured via the film. This extra weight helps not only de-curl the film for scanning, but also straightens the film while drying, leading to a quicker and all around more efficient dry.
Now we just gotta getcha to ditch the stabilizer for Photo Flo!
Nice!! Thats a good idea! I need to try that out!
After so long of trying to find a more reliable video, you make it so f**king simple, i love it! I really appreciate it and im ready to now buy everything and take more notes from this 🔥
Comprehensive explanation of developing with the C41 process.
This is the best video I've watched regarding this process
Thank you so much! Im glad you enjoyed it!
CS-41!!!!!! This video was awesome! Keep it up!
Cory Shearer thanks Cory! Really appreciate it! I’ll have more videos uploaded, I hope you will enjoy them! 🙂
About to do my first C41 rolls this week. This video was super helpful. Thanks!
Thanks!!
Here's my feedback! YOU DID GREAT! lol listen I love finding fellow reel dawgies out here on the interwebs. If you run across one of my shorts, I hope you don't mind my brazen disregard for details. I'm not trying to be a film photography blasphemer. Just trying to be me man. You're doing great talking about all the details. I'm in a sort of analog desert out here in rural texas. Trying to connect with reel film dawgies online. Subbed! See you on the scroll!
CS something ! Thanks for the video !
CS-41 waddup!! Dope video, David! I can't wait to give this a shot myself.
Thanks brother! I hope this helps! C-41 development isn't hard! Let me know how the process goes for you! make sure to wear gloves!
I liked your C-41 episode. Thanks for the instructive video.
Of course! Im glad you enjoyed it!
CS41! Definitely saving this, thanks so much for making it so easy to follow 😊
I cannot thank you enough for this video. Really appreciate the effort put forth.
Of course! I’m glad it helped you!! 😊
c41 is one of the safest developers to use, they are not toxic and people need to stop lying to others about it and potentially causing harm.
The only film developer that legitimately is bad is D-76 for black and white.
Hazards
1. Formaldehyde is moderately toxic by skin contact, and highly toxic by inhalation and ingestion. It is an skin, eye and respiratory irritant, and strong sensitizer, and is a probable human carcinogen. Formaldehyde solutions contain some methanol, which is highly toxic by ingestion.
2. Succinaldehyde is similar in toxicity to formaldehyde, but is not a strong sensitizer or carcinogen.
3. Hydroxylamine sulfate is a suspected teratogen in humans since it is a teratogen (causes birth defects) in animals. It is also a skin and eye irritant.
4. Concentrated acids, such as glacial acetic acid, hydrobromic acid, sulfamic acid and p-toluenesulfonic acids are corrosive by skin contact, inhalation and ingestion.
5. Acid solutions, if they contain sulfites or bisulfites (e.g., neutralizing solutions), can release sulfur dioxide upon standing. If acid is carried over on the negative or transparency from one step to another step containing sulfites or bisulfites, then sulfur dioxide can be formed.
6. Potassium ferricyanide will release hydrogen cyanide gas if heated, if hot acid is added, or if exposed to strong ultraviolet radiation.
Precautions
1. Local exhaust ventilation is required for mixing of chemicals and color processing.
2. Use premixed solutions whenever possible.
3. Avoid color processes using formaldehyde, if possible.
4. Wear gloves, goggles and protective apron when mixing and handling
color processing chemicals. When diluting solutions containing concentrated acids, always add the acid to the water. An eyewash should be available.
5. A water rinse step is recommended between acid bleach steps and fixing steps to reduce the production of sulfur dioxide gas.
6. Do not add acid to solutions containing potassium ferricyanide or thiocyanate salts.
7. Control the temperature carefully according to manufacturer's recommendations to reduce emissions of toxic gases and vapors.
Its better to stay safe than be sorry in the future. It builds up
Good job son! Very thorough and well-explained. Thank You!
forgot one thing, for SHEET film, you need the paterson 3-reel tank, and a Mod-54 to acomodate the 4x5" sheet size, or other options for larger sheets.
I love that you use a sous vide wand to maintain temperature!
Thank you for this video!! I was looking for a quick guide to the c-41 color negative film development process. And I think your video covers a lot of really good points like getting distilled water to keep out impurities??? Genius!! You’re doing a great job creating helpful content good sir
Made it super simple thanks 😊
I just recently started developing b&w. Hoping to try color soon. Great video. You took the fear out of color developing for me.
Thank you! Glad this video helped! Let me know if you have any questions!
CS41!! Dude so so good - the b-roll is awesome and loved seeing this step by step! Really cool process and excited to see more videos!
Thank you brother! Glad you enjoyed it! It was the first video/tutorial i've done so it was a little rough around the edges but hopefully I was able to help you learn!
Nice what your doing, think about what your background is showing. I do like how you keep on the subject and provide images as far as how and what you need. Keep doing what your doing.
Dude, don't stop!!! Keep making videos
Thanks man! Really appreciate it! Hopefully i’ll upload more soon!
@@sanleesnaps Good, I really enjoy them. Thanks!
this is the best film video i’ve seen like this. well done. very helpful.
Thank you so much! I really appreciate it! Glad it helped you out!
I shot the recent total Solar Eclipse on film and local big box store still offers remote developer service, but they only scan the film, they don't return the negatives. Going to give this a try, done BW processing in the past. CS41
Nap town!! Subscribed for the 317. Great video btw.
C-41. I liked your video on this subject. I’ve had very inconsistent results and will try the sous vide and water bath, and stirring.
Thank you! I hope it works out for you! Let me know if you run into any issues!
Since you asked for critical comments, here you go:
1. Distilled water to avoid hard water deposits. Mixing the chemistry with distilled water will use a lot more of it, but will do nothing. The trick is to mix the last solution the film sits in, the stabilizer, with distilled water (and add a few drops of Photoflo). That solves the hard water problem completely.
2. I suppose if you already have one, you'll use it, but if you are just starting out and assembling basic equipment, do not get a Paterson tank. Uses hard (cheap) plastic, so easily broken. More importantly, the internal (huge) funnel traps a huge volume of air in the tank, When you use it for inversion agitation, its more like a cocktail shaker than a developing tank. At the minimum, it will significantly exhaust your chemistry and reduce its reuse. Also, the lid is infamous for blowing off the top of the tank during the blix cycle, which tends to build up internal pressure. (Invert that!) Better (and usually cheaper) choices: the AP brand tank, also sold by B&H and Freestyle as their "House" brand tanks. (Why do Paterson tanks appear in so many YT videos? Because nearly all of these videos are guys who watched prior YT videos, saw someone using a Paterson, and are just repeating without critical thought or experience. It's a herding thing. Moo!)
Thanks for your input!
Great and clear video! 2 questions: 1. Do you rinse the film between developer and blix? 2. What can cause heavy blue tint on the scanned photos? Scanner is ok. Blue tint is the scanned photo. Thanks!
Really helpful video and I will be watching a few more times yet as I'm about to get into developing.
Thanks for this video! I will start my DIY film developing thanks to this video :)
This really helped me out. Very easy to follow. Going to try developing for the first time!
Hope it went well for ya! Let me know how it went!
I’m old hand at B&W home developing, and even though I have all the equipment and chemistry to process C-41, I keep holding out for some reason. I’m hoping this video will kick me in the ass to get started!
CS41! Thanks for the knowledge
Thanks!!
Perfect. I plan to give it a shot this weekend.
Damn, this is 10x better than my first video ever was lol. Super informative though, I might have to give this a try for myself now. Thanks!
Thanks man! You should try it out! Let me know how it goes for you and let me know if you have any questions! 😀
CS41!! Very well detailed 👌🏼👌🏼
Thank you!!
Cs41 man CS41 for suuuuure
Thank you!!! Your video simplified the how to for me!
Of course! Let me know if you have any questions!
I have developed 14 rolls in two weekends. I am so grateful to you and your video! These films are mostly 20 years old. I’ve had five bad ones. But the rest are memories!!! Thank you again!
@@isabelf2710 im so happy to hear that! Let me know if you run into any issues!
Awesome video man! Job well done
Thanks David! Really appreciate it! Hope this video helped you!
You’re a youtuber now!!!😍😍🔥🔥🔥
I think I am! 🤣🤣 jk I am a RUclipsr!! Its been so much fun!
CS41! Such a helpful video :)
Thanks!!
Cs41 thanks dude
New subscriber, great video
Great
Thank you! 🤟
Thank you!
perfect level of detail! thank you :)
nice man! Can't wait to try this myself as well as e6 slide film too.
You should try it out! I should create a new video about developing e6 film!
@@sanleesnaps I'm planning on shooting 50-100 rolls of 120 in 2021 for a personal project. I'm super excited. Can't wait. However, due to the volume of shooting I'm planning, I'm considering getting the biggest Paterson tank so I can develop 5 120 rolls at once.
Thats probably a good idea, if you are really getting into it a JOBO might be a good option too so you can develop more rolls at a time
how long can you store the chemicals?
Cs41 - very neat thank you.
Thank you
Nice and clear. Thank you
Very useful, thank you.
Of course! Im glad it helped you!
Cs-41
This helped a lot! thank you
Glad it helped!
cool video!
nice work man!
Joshua Chapman thanks Josh! Haha glad you like the video! Hopefully it will help you learn how to develop film! 😁
CS41
Excellent video
Thank you!
ty c41
Love this!
Elizabeth Hall thank you Elizabeth! Appreciate the support! 🙂
Cs41💓
❤
great video thanks man
Of course! I’m glad it helped you!
CS-41!!!
🙌😀
CS-41 :3
😆
CS-41!
CS-41
Thanks!
Hey, thanks for the video!
I was wondering if you also stored the blix and the stabilizer back into the accordion containers after using them!
If so, how often do you refill them with new ones? Do you also re-use them for about 14-20 rolls just like the developer?
Hey! I do store the chemicals back in the accordion containers after use. I usually try to develop them with 14-20 rolls as soon as I can. The chemicals expire so I'd recommend try using up the 14-20 rolls within 2-3weeks at the most. Let me know if you have any more questions, I'd be happy to answer them!
This was perfect
cs41 :)
thank you! 😀
CS41 :)
Awesome video!
Is the C-41 process correct for Portra 400?
Yup that is correct!
Nice
What would happen if I don't use Stabilizer?
You should use it! C-41 film needs the stabilizer otherwise the image will degrade very quickly and very badly. The stabilizer acts as a hardener and preservative and a wetting agent.
@@sanleesnaps I see. I didn't know that. Thanks for your response. 😊
@@Gamundi08 of course!
Cs41
🙏🏼🙏🏼
What's the porpoise of the bag? Or put the Patterson tank on dark? It has to do it with the chemicals or something else?
Good vid. I subbed.
Thank you! 🙏🏼🙏🏼
cs41 cool
🙌🙌
Hey friend, thanks for the video ! I wanted to know how do you dispose of used chemicals after you've developed 15-20 rolls of 35, is it bad to collect all chemicals in one tank or do you have to seperate them in one tank for each chemical before you bring it to recycling center ? Thanks for your help !
Hi Sanlee, thanks for the video. I recently mastered developing bnw 120 film. I’m pretty excited to start developing colored films, your video is the easiest one I’ve seen so far to understand. When it comes to developer and other chemicals, is there a certain measurement of chemicals to add? Or just fill the tank ? For example when I develop bnw I mix the developer with water in a certain measurement same for stop and fixer, is it the same here? Thanks
Of course! for creating the chemicals it will depend on which chemical you use (Unicolor, CS-41, Rollei C-41). You just need to follow the manual guide for the measurements. When you are actually developing the film I don't mix my chemicals with water during the development process, I just use the chemical I created.
Hope this helps!
@@sanleesnaps Thank you! will update you with my experience :)
@@rfalasi7767 can’t wait to hear your results!
Hey man, just a quick question. In this video, you developed 1 roll of film. May I know if the volume of the solution you used is only 300ml recommended for 1 roll, even if you're using 2-reel tank? Will the extra space in the tank during inversions induce air bubbles or anything into my chemicals due to all the sloshing around of the extra air with my chems? Thanks man! Great video.
Jobi thanks for the comment! The video of me reeling the film was an example of how you reel film in a patterson tank! I actually developed 2 rolls for the video. I would recommend avoiding developing single rolls because it can get messy but you can develop with one roll with the spool with the film placed at the bottom of the tank and using 600ml (treat it like you have 2 rolls). But ymmv sooo id still recommend two rolls at a time! :) hope this helped!
Its more efficient and your chems will last longer if you use the full amount of reels when developing because everytime the air is contacted by the chems the more earlier the chems will expire!
Thanks for your inputs man! Really appreciate your quick response. See you on your next video. Keep safe!
@@jbnnz325 You too my friend! Of course! I'm here to help! Thank you for watching this video!
Hey! Glad I’m following you on Instagram and found this. I use the Unicolor kit. Been having issues with my highlights being blown out and just some overall graininess. Everything is properly exposed in camera. Do you think an incorrect temp would cause that? I used to use a sous vide stick to heat but have recently switched to just filling a bucket with hot water and measuring the temp as it came down. I also didn’t really measure the pre soak temp or use distilled water for that. I know the pre-soak was def higher than 102F.
Hey man! Of course, that may be due to the temperature, make sure that the pre-rinse is at 102F usually you wanna stay within 1F of the recommended temperature for the pre-rinse, developer and blix process. Also make sure to put the patterson tank back in a 102F water container after you agitate to maintain temperature of the film negative, the most important thing is that the patterson tank maintains the proper temperature. How are you scanning your negatives?
sanleesnaps I have an Epson V600 for scans. But...on my last roll I did exactly what you suggested for keeping the temp and the negatives came out good. So it looks like my temps were off.
@@garycook7923 thats awesome! Glad to hear its been working well, that makes me happy!
C41
This maybe dumb question. I noticed when I had the Sous Vide set at 102degrees and had my rinse water in a plastic container the water in the plastic container was of lower temperature. I'm thinking that the temp of the chemicals in the bottles would also be a lower temperature. Maybe because the plastic container wasn't closed? Would it make sense to set the sous vide at a higher temperature to compensate so that everything is at 102degrees?
This is actually something I should have talked about! I set my temperature to 104 on my sous vide now as I’ve found that it kept my chemicals all at 102 degrees. It may vary from sous vides but I’ve found that that helped me maintain temperatures.
@@sanleesnaps cool I actually followed your guide and results turned out okay. I was looking at the negatives through one of the phone apps and got worried thinking I messed the development process. Today I got them scanned and the scans turned out better than I expected. It is cool to finally see the pictures after developing them yourself!
Thats great to hear man! Glad I was able to help! Let me know if you run into other issues!
cs-41
David....Terrrific. I'm getting back into home developing and I never tried color when I first started doing it. It was always too complex for amateurs, I was told. Your vidieo is very helpful, so thanks.
Cs41 😏
Nice moog mug haha, where did you get it?
Didnt think anyone would catch that 😂 i got it from their website moogmusic.com
Is the Blix the same as Stop Bath for true B&W?
Does the process or development times change for different iso film ratings? 400 vs 800
How do you create positives from the negatives?
Do they still make film and where to buy one?
You can either use a scanner or scan using a camera, i have a video on it! You can buy film in any big retail store! Lmk if you have more questions!
@@sanleesnaps Thanks
Was wondering, how did they do this(produced positives from negatives) in the old days where they didnt have computers?
BTW: can you still buy black and white film? (If there is any difference between the color one, or can you stick a color film into black and white camera and would it work?
BTW: why can you use red light safly while developing film without exposing it, but normal light does expose it?
Do you let the film air dry or do you squeegee it dry
Hi all, I’m confused and want to clarify something. So I’ve developed bnw film in the past during my photography a level where I was taught to always have the lights off during the development.
I’ve seen quite a few videos where people put the dev, stop, fix n water into the Patterson tank without covering and turning off all light sources. Wouldn’t this create a light leak from the tank and affect the film? And if not, I can put my chemicals with the lights on once the tank is sealed after putting the film in?
Once you have the funnel on and the black cylinder thing (seen here at 1:30) in the centre of your reel, the dev tank is completely light tight.