Battery Tender TM Plug Installation on my Key West 1720 - May, 2019
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- Опубликовано: 5 окт 2024
- Its project time again.... I'm replacing the trolling motor plug on my Key West 1720 CC with a Battery Tender TM Plug.
I had taken the 1720 out for a shakedown run since it had not been on the water in a couple months (my bad, I know!). My son was coming in for his vacation, we had planned several days of fishing and I wanted to make sure everything was in good running order.
When testing the trolling motor, it kept shutting off and resetting. This indicated it was losing power. When I removed the Marinco 3 prong plug from the socket, it was very warm. This indicated probable arcing inside the plug. When I disassembled the plug,
This video recaps the complete replacement, both on the boat and on the TM power leads.
The Battery Tender TM Plug is a little pricey compared to the typical 3 prong plugs available. That said, it is very well constructed and appears to be a solid, rugged plug that makes a fail-proof connection. I expect this plug will last a very long time. Buy once, cry once!
Thanks for the video I am doing this today i have the same boat and the same old plug that also failed. Can’t wait to get that battery tender plug installed thanks for the great video
Channel Cat3116, thanks for watching and commenting. It sure seems to be a heavy duty plug. I’ve only used it once since the install due to another unrelated issue with the KW. Hope to be able to put it to use very soon.
Awesome fix. A lot work but worth it in the long run. Thumbs up!
Actually a fairly easy upgrade. It took much longer than it should have due to simply taking my time, triple measuring and having to shuttle tools back and forth from the garage due to threatening rain. Definitely an upgrade from the old plug. We won't be losing our anchor lock any more!
Great job, appreciate the video. Installing tomorrow, Thanks.
Robert Schachel - Robert, you will find this unit is well made and should last the lifetime of the boat.
Nice work! Going to use those for my install, some day.
It costs more than the Marinco / Minn Kota plug but is well worth the extra $$$. Buy once, cry once. This should never need replacing.
Jim that was awesome😁😁😁😁 I cannot wait to get one for my Cajun center console I will probably go ahead and do a video on it since it is an older boat and not too many videos out there of new upgrades on older center consoles.....I just subscribed and can't wait to see more of your videos👍👍👍👍😁😁😁😁🎣🎣🎣🎣🎣
Thank you for watching and commenting. Just trying to give others some insight and assurance that many upgrades are easily accomplished at home. Please do a video of the work you do on your Cajun as it will help others. BTW, this Battery Tender plug is one heavy duty plug and has worked out very well since installation.
That black tape gets old and does make a sticky mess.Someone stole your cameras? Good job on the new plug.
Wayn, thanks for the compliment. No one stole the cameras. I was using their wifi capability thru my phone to get a good recording angle, and forgot that the phone was still linked when I left to get the drill. The cameras turned off when they lost the wifi connection. I didn't realize it for a good while thereafter.
Yes, that electrical tape makes a sticky mess. Shortly after I had installed that Marinco plug, one of the wires on that plug came loose while we were out on the water. We had to remove the plug and the port nav light, use the VHF antenna mast as a wire fish and make an on-the-water repair. Trying to break the 4200 seal around the nav light was a job in itself, when you're pushing on the boat with a scraper and the boat keeps wanting to push away from you. We managed the repair and used the tape to make sure the wires had some support. I'd never use it if working on wiring while on shore.
Great video Jim
Thanks, Mark!
Can you tell me approximately how long it took to do this job? With getting tools, etc... I’m assuming most of the day? Great vid👍
Thanks, Melloreel. I spent about 2 1/2 hours on this job and I was definitely taking my time. I also made close to a dozen trips back and forth to the garage to bring out additional tools as they were needed (and because I didn't foresee every tool that would be needed) because it looked like it could rain at any time, all of which takes up additional time. One thing I always do when working a distance from the garage is to load all the tools I think I'll need into a 5 gal bucket. It makes it much easier moving the tools to the boat and has room for bringing everything back, including the additional tools I inevitably forget and still have to make that trip back to the garage.
Did you have to cut inside the anchor box to bolt down the trolling motor
Jesse, short answer, yes. I used a 4" hole saw to open an access hole high up in the anchor locker. This works on the older models where the anchor locker is on the high bow level and the storage locker is on a lower level. If you have a new model where the anchor locker and storage hatch are on the same deck level, it will not give you the same level of access. Be sure to put tape around the cut edge of the hole before you insert your arm. Fiberglass doesn't feel good when it gets into your skin.
When I go and connect the wires on my plug to the trolling motor there is play or a loose feeling with the wires. The connection for a wire to stud are all tight but it seems to be the way the plug sits in the plastic part. Did you see this on your install. Dont like the idea of play in an connect in a 36v system.
Chase, thanks for watching and commenting. I do seem to recall that after connecting the TM wires to the male lugs, there was some play in one of the lugs. If I remember correctly (it has been some time now since the install), I removed the TM wires and was able to tighten the lugs within the plug, then reinstalled the wires. I can't say specifically, but I do seem to recall having to undo and redo the wiring after putting it together. This may have been caused by my playing with the plug prior to the actual installation.
Excellent video
Thanks, Dan!
I going to install a trolling motor on my 2002 1720 key west.my question is how of a shaft should I get.
George, I have a 54” shaft on my TM. It serves the purpose without cavitation in all of my inshore fishing. I have been in some slop nearshore where it would sometimes suck air while on anchor lock but I rarely fish in those conditions. If I were to purchase another, I’d stay with the 54”. I wouldn’t want another 6” of length to deal with when it is stowed.
Would it be possible to install the plug with the cover hinge on the upper side? Seems like that might add one additional level of protection from water such as splash over or rain.
I agree, but.... The socket and plug are molded such that they can only be mated in one direction. Because of the way the socket is molded, the cover's plug also fits in only direction. If the socket was oriented so that the cover hung from the top, it would require the trolling motor plug to be oriented up instead of down.
How is the Battery Tender holding up?
No issues whatsoever! Highly recommend this receptacle/plug.
Did the new plug stop your trolling motor from cutting out? My trolling motor is currently doing the same thing with the plug very warm.
William, Thanks for watching and commenting. I've only had the KW out a couple of times since the plug changeover due to water intrusion into the fuel tank which was a fiasco and fortunately behind me now. On the couple of occasions when I had it in use, it worked fine and did not get warm. It is much more robust than the three prong MinnKota / Marinco plug.
BTW, the plug getting warm is an indication there is a problem inside the plug, either with an overcurrent situation or loose wire connection. I'd double check that you are not exceeding the amperage rating of the plug.
@@JimMFishing After seeing your video I went out and bought the Battery Tender plug. I hope to install it this week.
@@wmhattaway3108 - I'm pretty sure you will be pleased with the plug. The peace of mind knowing it will handle any current you push thru it is worth the additional cost over the lesser plugs.
I am putting a new trolling motor on 2003 key West 1720. I just purchased a Minn Kota Powerdrive 12v. This boat has had a TM on it before but was not there when I got the boat. My question is that the TM has a Red and Black wire coming from the motor. The receptical that's in the boat is a three prong receptical. I'm assuming that means it's a 24v system? How do I wire up my new TM as not to burn it up. Electrical is not my thing!!!
pytvyper69 - in the early days of 24v trolling motors they used a 3 wire circuit to make the 24v. Nowadays all TM wiring is a simple 2 conductor circuit. Even though your TM receptacle is 3 pronged does not mean that there is current on each of the 3 prongs. You can use a digital multimeter voltage tester to determine which prongs give you the 12v your TM requires. Pay attention to which prong the positive tester lead is on. If the display shows a negative voltage, you have the positive tester lead on the negative side of the circuit.
Alternatively you can remove the receptacle and look at the wiring as it connects to the receptacle.
3 prong receptacle were used on
12/24 volt trolling motors.
On this trolling motor you could switch from 12 volt operation to
24 volt operation .
I have a key west like yours it's a 2002 year I have discovered that my gas fill tube has collapsed any ideas about that you wouldnt happen to know how to get it out would you
Cam, if the fuel full hose has truly collapsed, there is nothing I know that can be done except replacing the hose. This is a relatively major project as the fill hose is typically embedded in the same foam that gives the 1720 model upright flotation. Access to the hose end connections is thru the inspection plate just below the fill cap and thru the inspection hatch on the floor of the CC. If you look at floor of your 1720 directly below the fuel fill cap, you will notice a very slight angle at the side/floor joint where the fill hose makes the bend to turn towards the fill connection of the tank.
There are several threads on the subject of fill hose replacement on the forum. If you are not familiar with it: www.keywestboatsforum.com. The alternative is to use portable tanks that you can position between the battery and live well compartments. Good luck with your issue!
Cam Carter unless your into a ton of work, I would find a piece of fuel hose, like on a gas pump size, slide it into the current fuel fill hose, and use the smaller piece to fill the tank! At least it would hold open the old line enough to fill tank until your ready to fix it right which sometimes creates more problems! JMO.
.25" studs. 5/16 lug connectors?
Nicholas, I do not understand your comment. If it is because I used a slightly larger lug connector on the stud, the slightly larger lug is acceptable. They were already on hand.