Ok so ive been looking into this for so SO long now ive lost sleep its affected my work, im dreaming of lipos chasing me up and down stairs in elevators and up the street and ive been to every retailer, RUclipsr and Rc/Hobbies forum on the planet, and from what ive found in a nutshell is this. The "C" rating on batterys cannot destroy your motor or esc. Your motor/s or esc will only draw current required from the battery not the other way round (i.e the battery does not force this "C" rating through your motor/s esc's) the "C" rating is just there to tell you the safe discharge speed of the battery so going higher is always ok. hope this helps.. I need to sleep now.
This is very true in general, (C Ratings should never lead to destruction of components) however, there is a scenario that many should be aware of and understand clearly. A higher C rating allows a system to maintain a higher voltage or lower voltage drop across the battery pack. With a higher voltage from the battery to the motor, the motor will draw more current. If your power system is already on or very near it's thermal threshold, this small bump in power can exceed the thermal threshold causing burnout or destroyed components. If you notice a bump in acceleration or speed from a higher C rating pack in an RC vehicle, this suggests the system is experiencing higher power output. The second part of this is: If this scenario is true for a power system, the power system has not been selected correctly. It is very critical that a power system is selected in such a way that allows for thermal headroom. This boosts reliability and performance. There have been factory RC vehicles that are very sensitive to subtle voltage increases leading to motor destruction. A good example is part of the Latrax lineup. If you use a high C rating LiPo and do not monitor temps on the motor, you do risk motor burnout as experienced by many.
Yeah, i recently lost an esc this exact way. Pushed too far with 120c 10,000 on 150a esc. Got away with it for a while. I'm now monitoring temps, using better fans an used spacers to create an 4mm air gap between esc and mounting plate. Also set an alarm and lowered motor timing. Also can lower size of pinion to further drop the temps. Bash-On!👍
Good talk, thanks. I see a lot of people asking "what about my setup" Do you know of an online website calculator that we can plug "known values" in and get a "solve for unknown variable." In this case I guess - Motor , ESC, and solve In relation to S count ( voltage) Current rating. ( that's the 20.30.40 etc. "C" rating ) yes? So basically solve for acceptable c rating for given esc ( and motor if known) then choose voltage of the pack and solve for "c". Hope that made sense.
high c rating will not hurt the system as long as you are using the proper voltage, why because it will never pull more than it needs. this should be about sizing all the power system for the motor .. that includes the prop. under sizing will hurt the battery and the the power system .. sagging voltage increases the Amp draw. then you have heat
True, C rating states how much current the battery can safely provide without overheating, not necessarily how much current will actually flow through the system.
No it won't be trouble if you load the system less than 35A or your weakest link. Yes it will be a problem if you load your system to over 35A or your weakest link.
Hello, i don't think that's the right question. The question that will help would be: is my 35A ESC, 3500mAh battery and X motor going to be ok with using a 12x6 APC propeller. Your battery will be fine if you don't plan on using a load. But it will fail horribly if you toss a 35x20in prop on there.
@@RCexplained tq for replying me, i actually want to know what is the maximum battery voltage suitable for my 35A esc. Im sorry my english is not really good.
Should also mention that c rating is relative to the mah, a lot of people think 30c 1000mah battery can deliver the same amount of amps as a 30c 5000mah. I have noticed higher c rated batteries can be slightly larger so some people may go to a smaller capacity to fit the pack not realising it reduces the max amp output
The Problem is .. that a lot of People By things without knowing what they do ... my tip is .. before You want do to something .. get the basic Knowledge !! C Rating is only a 1 factor in the calkulation what a battery pack can deliver : the formular is .. Capacity x C-Rating = max Amp Example .. 1000maH x 20C = 20A max Everything Above 20A can damage the Internals of the Battery !! and as a side effect other Parts of Your System ... but more C Rating cant be the Reason for a Defect. it is like You driving a car ... if You drive 50km/h in a town .. it is not the Fault of a bigger Engine if You drive 100 and get caught !! or have an accident The C Rating alows You to use more Amps .. it is not the reason if these Amps damage any of the compnents in your system ...
I built a micro Apex with a SpeedyBee 20x20 35a F7 6S stack, Rush Tank Micro VTX and 6S 2204 motors. It flew fine on 4S. I used a Speedy Pizza 1200mah 100c 6S once. The flight was just a short punchout and video was gone. It fell out of the sky and broke an arm and no power. I know the pack was heavy and I know the battery was able to supply the motors, but I don't think the ESC was able to keep up with those two. Or am I wrong?
If an upgraded battery damages the ESC its because of an ESC motor mismatch, the battery only delivers current that the system asks for up to the max C rating. That is of course your not over volting the ESC.
So the answer to the question is "No", because the whole electrical system can only pull the current it needs to operate. So long as you don't overload the motor with too large a propeller. A battery doesn't push amps, they are drawn from it.
Hi! May i ask a question: i have a thermal issue with my motor. I ve been using chinese esc(bec 6v / 2a) and battery pack (2s 3000mah 35c) for 370 9volt 50000 rpm motor. i burned several motor already. what seems to be the problem? or which part do i need to change? i still want to use the same motor, but it keep overheating
I’ve flown gas planes for 20yrs and have just bought the HobbyZone Husky 1800mm airplane. Power system: 3541-750Kv motor, 45A ESC. I bought a HRB 4000mAh 60C 4S. 4S is correct, but they suggest a 35C battery. Is this to much battery for the ESC? I do have a 100A ESC I could use. This electric battery jargon is much more complicated than gas engines I think. Thanks and I subbed. Think I’ll be able to learn a lot from you.
I size my electrical components the same way I size my electrical circuits. You should never be exceeding 80% of a circuit's rated capacity. what that means is if you expect to pull 50 amps maximum on a motor then use the equation: max amps x 1.25 = min allowable rated amps (50 x 1.25= 62.5) amps meaning you should be sizing your ESC to handle at least 62.5 amps however nobody makes an ESC that specific so instead select the next highest capacity ie: 65 or 70 amps. It is also worth while to note if you don't expect to be running a motor at or near full throttle all the time you can choose to use the Esc's rated burst current instead. Most Esc's can handle 5- 10 amps more of burst current than sustained current. Once you have the proper ESC you should select the proper c rating and voltage to correspond with your motors and ESC. This is not really as cut and dry as battery manufacturers often overstate their c ratings so it is likely to just be trial and error. However you should note that a higher c rated battery will perform just fine operating below it's rated discharge. For a 50 amp discharge or higher I would recommend 75c -100c
Hello, I like your delivery, excellent! I am new to rc, new subscriber, will studying your tutorials. I have a ground wire on my son's 1/18 Himoto buggy that it's getting fried. It travels from the receiver to the esc. No other wires burned. 2S battery. Hobby store guy says just keep replacing wires. This doesn't sound right. Any ideas? Thanks for the info!
This does not sound right for sure. Is the fried wire the brown or black one in the 3 leads from the esc to receiver? Are there any extra components that have been installed on the receiver? For example an after market light module plugged in to the receiver.
@@RCexplained thank you for the reply, much appreciated! So the black wire alone, from the receiver to the esc, is burned. No other wires affected. No upgrades, all stock. The other thing that I forgot to mention, is that the motor burned out twice. The hobby shop replaced them for free, stating coincidental crappy motor. Hmm. Though bad motors happen, one immediately after the other, is too much of a coincidence. Also, the wire seems to be fairly evenly burned throughout the entire length, with some spots where metal burned through. This seems to indicate that it was excess power, instead of heat emanating from receiver or esc. Very strange. Im no electrical expert by far, though your videos have increased my knowledge greatly. Thanks again!
@@MrsRabbit8 I'd agree that it sounds like excess power traveling in this black wire. I would expect something in the radio receiver system is defective. You should not experience radio power wires getting hot enough to melt the insulation of the wire. It does suggest to me that something within the radio system is pulling a lot of power. Is the servo buzzing excessively when no control input is provided? Does the receiver seem excessively hot when the RC is powered on for several minutes already?
So I currently have a rafale that suggests using a 2200mAH 25C 14.8V battery but I can't find any online, just to confirm it won't ruin the the motor to use a 14.8V 220mAH 50C battery then?
This is opposite of what all other places say about the c rating. It just says how much your esc and motor pulls. Your esc would have to pull more power then it can handle which would mean it is already broken
@@RCexplained Electronics are design to pull the power they need and not just pull all the power they can. If the hardware or programing of your esc makes it pull more power then it is designed to do and burns it self out, that is broken. Now if you put a higher volt battery that pushes power into the esc and burns it up that is different. One is pulling power and one is pushing power.
Hi hope you are fine, thank for your videos, they are very helpful. I have just one question on my new surpass hobby motor I see 3 specs for the Amps: Max amps for the motor: 66 A And for the ESC are two Cont. Current/Burst Current: 45A/240 A The question is, which out of those amps do I have to match with the C raiting?, The 66 amps from the motor or the 45A/240A cont/burst from the ESC?
Hello, you always want to consider selecting your system based off of continuous current. Not peaks or bursts. Ideally you would know how much power you are going to load your motor to and base your system on this.
Can I use 3s (11.1) volt 30C lipo battery on my ct6b transmitter for rc ? Will it cause any problem to my transmitter due to high discharge rate?? By the way ur videos r great.
Great series.. I raced RC cars in the 90's - and looking in on the modern electrics , much has changed (!) I read somewhere that a brushless system speed controller can be stressed/damaged by a battery pack which doesn't produce enough power/current.. is this the case, and what should I look for in speed controller specs that indicates the minimum battery spec it needs?
Hi Rob, glad you are back looking in to current components that power our RC's. That is awesome! You are correct, a battery pack that does not supply enough power can destroy an ESC. To select a battery pack, you need to know how many amps your system is going to draw. This value multiplied by 1.5-2.0 is where I like to be in terms of the maximum continuous discharge current for the battery pack. The more head room you have the higher the reliability will be in your system.
It's a shame that the plug-in play configurations are teaching Newbies to not pay attention to the setting up, testing and understanding of their equipment! I see it literally every time at the field where the individuals buy the epo foam planes and know nothing about anything other than throwing a battery in it and flying, then they throw a switch on their ASX equipped radio receiver and plant it in the ground.. .
Subbed bro. Just wondering. I have a 2s 7.4v 4500 lipo 45c 2pcs working with series (4s) with 120amp esc hobby wing. Is it okay with that 45c rating? And what happen to the C rating if use in series? Do they doubled?. what do u recommend best fit on my 120amps hobby wing esc.?
The C rating is unchanged no matter how the battery is wired. What are you looking for to use on your 120A ESC, Battery or Motor? Is this for an airplane, car, boat?
This is good stuff! Thank you for infos. As an RC noob myself im still learning everything as well. Still kind of confused on some things when it comes to the ESC on the car. For example, I purchased a Redcat Shredder and it says it has a HobbyWing 80Amp 4S Waterproof ESC (also come with a high torque 1300kv motor). And I know it runs 2, 2s lipo batteries so I purchased 2 Zeee 7.4V 60C 6200mAh lipo batteries. I hope I didn't purchase the wrong ones lol. My understand is that the ESC wouldn't ask for more power above what it could handle. Are those Zees lipos that I purchased too strong for the RedCat Shredder XTE to handle ?? Any help would be awesome!!
The ESC doesn't ask for power. The load that is placed on the power system is what determines the power output for the rest of the system. It is then up to the system to be able to supply it. If the ESC can not supply the current the motor is demanding, it can overheat and fail. Buying high c rated batteries is the best option for nearly all applications.
I have two questions 1: I have 80 amp esc and motor combo with esc peak current 520 amps and my battery is 6500 mah 50C do i have ok battery for it and does the peak current of the esc matter for the battery? 2: So if my esc and motor is hot than i have ok or high c rating and if my battery is hot than i have low c rating and what if its all hot?
hi, thanks for the explanation! but i still have issues grasping this... so as i currently am experiencing some heat problems with my 1/12 rc basher, i don't know how to deal with it, please help out.. here is my problem: currently the motor, the ECU and the batteries are getting hot to the touch. i can hold the batteries in my palm but they are quite hot not just warm, on the motor i can't keep my finger for more than 2 seconds and the ECU is quite warm but not hot. what do i do? by what i can understand from your explanation i can do the following: - get a battery with better continuous current output. but then i will overheat the motor even more, no? - or get a better motor that will not overheat for the current power usage. but then the batteries will be forced even more and heat-up more, no? - get both a better battery and a better motor, and that will cause the ECU to overheat, no? - get a better battery, better motor and better ECU...aaaand....we're back to where i've started from 😋 now i'm stuck 😋 just to rule this out: i've tried cleaning all the bearings and lubing/greasing everything up so that it runs smoother but didn't help :(
I have a cheap rc car as a "beater" and have an extra for parts. The battery is a 9.6v and that mah isn't high at all. Could I wire them in parallel without any concern?
I bought a RC car that is coming with a cheap esc / receiver (hbx 16889a pro) and its esc should take 7.4 (coming with a lipo 1000mAh 25C), I was thinking to buy indeed a higher rating like 50-75 or anyway not over 100c with 2000mAh, do you think it is crazy? (also I'll try a 3S 25C 1000mHa to see if the system can handle it as so many people are fine with it) Of course before or after I'll probably upgrade esc / receiver with a 60A but so far people are not doing it and using it with no problems, I was thinking to give it a try.. And a second very important question (I'm a beginner and I'm trying to avoid problems): you must storage / balance the battery? as the car came with a cheap usb charger that can not do it so I'm wondering if it is dangerous or not using only that simple charger. Thanks in advance and great video!
Upgrading to a higher C rating and capacity should be fine. Just monitor temperatures on the motor, ESC and battery. As for trying a 3S 25C 1000mAh battery, this will significantly bump the power up. You must monitor temps on your system. Regarding your second question, you must balance the battery. Your charger should be doing this. Charging or discharging your battery for storage is going to make your battery last for many more years. You can do this with a voltage checker and your RC Car. I'd highly recommend watching more videos on the channel about LiPo battery's.
@@RCexplained thanks, I'll be very careful with the 3S and I know it is 50-50 the probability that can this truck can handle it (it seems that I guy got 2 trucks and only in one is working fine). For the storage..well, if I understood good it is more if I care about keeping for longer time the battery alive so maybe I'll start with it's simple usb balance charger and then I'll get probably the B6 so I can storage them, but from the view of a beginner sounds a bit annoying to storage 2-3 battery after using it and charging again the day before I use them. Anyway thanks for your answer mate
@@RCexplained at the end I bought the B6 charger, so I'll start to storage the battery that I'm waiting to receive from the beginning, thanks for the tips! ;) ps: I also needed to check the 3S before and after a run so far the esc is made for 7.4V, for 25€ I'll sleep better checking it
you help me out so much i am so thankfull but ive looked high and low for this.... 1/16 on 2435 3300kv brushless motor and a 13t pinion and 1550mah 35c 2s ....i am looking at waterproof setup and see hobbwing wp-16BL30 witch is 30amp..is the lipo c rating to much for 30amp esc if so ill just go 60amp but the esc is hugh haha
Yo bro thank you it makes more sense for the issues I was having I have a proboat velez 29 catamaran and I was having issues with my cheap rc truck lipos for this boat and I bought a higher output better socially rated lipos among the rc community and had less heat in the batteries and the 120a esc as well as the batteries don't get as hot (on 6s mind you the boat planes real fast on 6s and as such has less resistance over the battery usage) now on 4s even with the better batteries I was still getting alot of heat in the batteries and the motor and the esc so I am thinking for next season when I go to run my boat I will be using the high speed racing lipos that are rated at 120c for the 4s application and the mid range good lipos for 6s but I also bought 6s 120c racing lipos those are ok to use as well right?? Or is it best to only run those once in a while
@@RCexplained Ty, still new to RC’s, started off with a Hosim 9156 which has a 550 motor and is already pretty fast but I’d like to go faster. Any tips? Maybe a different motor? Or can you suggest another RTR RC under $200?
Hey, I got a question. I’m new and I’m planning to buy a hbx 2995 and it uses 2s 30c 7.4v lipos. Would I be able to run 3s 45c 11.1v lipos without much problems? I’m also planning to buy an esc fan as well
@@RCexplained I really don’t have much clue because their isn’t any information on Amazon stating if it can handle increased voltages. I’m looking through it and all I can find is that the esc voltage input is 7.4v idk what that really means but it seems like it probably won’t be able to handle 3s
Hello, I have a Maverick strada mt with the msc-30bl-wp esc (wich I think is broken by the way). I have used a 3s lipo, 6000 mah, 40 c. Could that have damaged it? The battery being to big I mean. The specifications of the esc say continuous current 45 A and burst current 220 A. After my calculations, my battery has an output of 240 amps? Is that too much? Thank you in advance 🙂
It is the load that you apply to the motor that determines the current draw through the system. Thee battery won't push its 240A continuous current if the system doesn't demand it.
@@RCexplained thank you. I didn't actually write about the symptoms of the car. If I hold it in the air, the wheels spin like hell. As soon as I put it down, it barely moves and stutters a lot. Occasionally it also shuts down after trying it on the floor for 10-15 seconds. I asked around and a lot of people said it's the gears, it's not mechanical, I checked. Then some people said the battery is not good, I tried it with 3 different batteries including the powerful 3s. Last 3-4 times I ran it, I noticed there where a lot of short power breakouts while driving. I could really use your opinion on this. Thank you in advance again 🙂
I have a 35a esc that can run 4-6s lipos. Some motors started to twitch and not spin so I got a new esc, after a few flights same thing again, could this be because im running 4s 1500 100c, is it too much for the esc? When it flys, I run packs after packs. But when it stops both times it was the first flight of the day within seconds
Sir hello i have a 60a esc and a 3s battery,i have a 25c and a 35c battery that i am currently using on a 1/8 truggy,am i on the right path? Or what is the max c rating that i could pair with my esc sir? Thank you so much
Hi and thank you for the video. I'm new to RC car, can you please advise me what battery is best suited for my Xinlehong 9125 (eg C rating)? These are the stock specs below, but I'm wanting to run it on 3S. . 2x 390 electric brushed motor 60 ah motor drive Servo 2.2 kg 1:10 scale 2S Li-Po 7.4v 1600 mah deans ESC 60 amps Thanks very much.
hey bro I had the same problem but i got the solution thanks a proffesional so the best 3s battery for the xinelehong is this www.banggood.com/ZOP-Power-11_1V-3300MAH-3S-35C-Lipo-Battery-XT60-Plug-p-955392.html?cur_warehouse=CN&rmmds=search your welcome :)
I use 3700 mah 130c lipo,90 amp esc and 4480 kv and 37 mm prop brushless motor for my rc boat...its getting hot on my ec5 and banana bullet 6 mm....and loose power when i play just 3 time full trigger....why is this happen...
Hello Farid, I don't understand you question. The LiPo batteries you have listed should not be placed in series or parallel. That's all I can make out from your question.
Hye sir..if i use 120a esc for 1/8 scale with motor 3670 2650kv,in esc spec can use 2s-4s battery,and i think i want to use 4s lipo below 6100mah with 90c rating..its that ok to this setup..because in motor spec maximum voltage 18.5v max current 86a and watt 1600..or i can go more high c rating like 110c or 120c..thank u for helping..😉😉
How do you know the battery killed your ESC? The battery does not push current through your ESC. The power system pulls the amount of current it needs. If your ESC burned up due to excessive current/heat chances are it was over loaded.
I had a 2s 7.4 v 3300mah 30c battery and a 100a esc in my rc boat then i bought a 2s 7.4 5000mah 60c battery and when i plugged it in the boat didn't start. Is the esc destroyed?
If your setup can handle the sustained power over a long period of time, battery capacity or longer run times will not damage anything. If your power system gets very hot after a short run and you get a larger battery pack, there is a chance the increase in run time will push your system over its thermal limits.
Hey Kurt. There are some electric skateboard dual ESC'S that are designed and wired to use just one battery. In most cases this should be totally ok to do. If you have any doubt, confirming with the manufacture would be best.
@@RCexplained cam drone with 1000kv motor with 30amp esc using lithium ion 18650 (3.7 volt 1200mah) in 3 series or 18650 (3.7volt 2200mah) in 3s fly? What could go wrong ?
It would be impossible to tell you if it can fly and also if it can work. I don't know what airplane you gavr nor the exact components you will be using in it.
@@RCexplained ahh my bad! Iam talking about drone! Instead of polymer iam planning to use li ion for long duration by sacrificing performance! Any help??
I have 40a esc hobbywing.. and stock nimh 2000mah battery.. my hobbywing esc can switch nimh and lipo 2~3sbattery.. if i wanna upgrade to using lipo.. what c rating suitable if i wanna play more times my Rc.. tq
I have a 3s/4s Proboat with 2300kv motor in it and a 100amp esc in it (stock) But my esc has burned up within minutes. Now I have orderd a 150amo esc (i will not run higher them 4s) But now other say I cannot run a 150amp esc on a 2300kv motor. But why?! If im just running max 4s then I shouldnt matter how big my esc is, isnt?
I'm not sure what those who are saying "you cannot" are getting at. Without knowing your full setup, it is not enough information to say you can or can not run that ESC with that motor.
@@RCexplained my Proboat Recoil 2 (26inch) is bone stock. This is my first boat and it can run stock 3s or 4s. But my stock (100amp) esc burned up.. I will get a new ( stock 100amp) esc from the hobbyshop, but also orderd a aftermarktet 150amp esc. I thought maybe an overkill esc will burn up less quickly then a 100amp esc. Im doing Rc cars for more then 10yrs and im running allot of 4s motors with a 150amp esc's on it to be extra save. Especialy when im using a bigger pinion. But im new in boats and wanted to know if just putting a bigger esc in a all stock 4s boat will cause problems (i just running 4s only in stock set up. Only a bigger amp.esc)
If me esc needs 45 amps then that's all it should take so high C battery shouldn't matter? In the automotive world that's how it works, my car needs up 550 cold cranking amps but I can put a 1000 CCA battery in and it only takes 550 CCA for example... so I don't think a higher C battery for an RC toy should matter... maybe if there is something wrong in the esc or in the motor ie. bad connection but it the esc, motor and connections are all good then it's only going to pull 45amps . Or if you where to hold the wheels from turning and hold full throttle then it would burn out at the weakest link but that would happen even with the proper spec. setup ..... right or am I missing something?
There are many who live in cold climates that need more than the specified CCA amount. And there are some that live in frigid weather where all the CCA they can buy is not enough. In these temperatures they don't shut their cars off! Imagine that. It's important for individuals living in these extremely cold climates to choose a battery with an adequate CCA rating, and in some cases, opt for a battery with a higher CCA than the manufacturer's recommendation to ensure reliable starting in harsh winter conditions.
I know that... but the car is going to pull only what is needed provided the battery is capable..... so if it put I 120c lipo on a 30c set up it should hurt anything as long as all components and conditions and good.... the esc and motor are only going to use what they are rated for.... now if it used a high voltage and a system not designed for it then "you" would burn things up.... at least and a mechanic for 30 years that's what we where taught... eg. In 12v automobile the amperage doesn't matter as long as the battery meets or exceeds the demand... but if You were to put 24 volts to the car "you'd fry the system
For a high percentage of all setups, it is encouraged to run the highest C rating battery as possible. I simply made an exception for this rule in a case where the motor is already at max thermal limit and an even higher C rating battery is used. This would then push the motor over temp. Do note the motor and ESC can and will use more than they are rated for if the load forces it to. Load controls the current in the circuit.
Yes, however there is a lot more to it than what you have asked. The 50A ESC could potentially work with any 2s battery that you would have asked about.
@@RCexplained Thanks you, but I forgot to mention that this ESC runs a 3000KV motor. Can it still run with a 4000mAh 2S 50C battery? *Sorry for my bad English*
@@muerto3836 The quick answer is yes it more than likely can. However, if you are trying to turn a 1500mm propeller direct drive, then no it can't. The point is, you have to be certain that the load you place on the system does not exceed what the system can handle.
If you have longer run times, just watch heat in the battery, ESC and motor. The C rating should never kill an RC with a correctly selected power system.
To anybody who can answer: I'd like to run an after market esc from amazon for my micro crawler scx24. It has an 88T motor , 2s 500mah battery. What should I get a 30a esc or 20a or 10a? Thank you.
I found a calculation that says my battery is about 150 amps but my esc is 45 amps I believe and my power system is getting really hot I think that’s my problem? 5000 mah 30c zippy hardcase mah x c rating %1000
When i connect a 11.1v 6000mAh 60C and a esc only hav 30C, it have some smoke in the connection between these two. Is it because the battery’s C is too high for the esc to support?
I'm assuming you mean ESC @ 30A. Do you also mean the spark that you see when plugging in the ESC to the battery? This is caused the surge in power that the capacitors on the ESC will pull. This is completely normal.
i think it starts here, it gives an impression that C rating is an indicator of how strong the battery will push its juice into the motor instead of how fast a battery can be discharged ruclips.net/video/hGNhnvwJpbY/видео.html
Hi. I subbed. Great videos. I have a question. My losi 8ight 3.0e buggy i built to do 100mph. I crashed it. And fixed it. Battery tray and motor mount. I run one 6s lipo. It was doing great before crash. Now no matter what battery i use it wont go over 80 mph. Do i think its esc or cap pack issue?
That could be true that you system could go over temp if its at the limit as is. Here's another point to keep in mind as well when looking at batteries: I haven't been able to measure any packs rated above 75C as an accurate value. In other words, I believe my 75C pack could out perform the 80C and 150C pack that you are referencing. There's another part of the equation and that is the reality of this non-regulated C rating.
STOP ... Your first Fact is definetly Wrong ... a higher C rate on a Battery Pack cant do anything to Your Power system .-.. reason is ... The C Rating defines only the possible Amps wich can be drawn of the Battery Pack without damaging this Battery .. and nothing else ... the CRating has no effect on how much Amps your Systems draws from a Battery or changes any other parameter of your existing system ... !! the C-Rating has no effect on Any of the components in Your system .. exept the Battery Pack itself ... - if the C-.Rating on your battery ist to low ... ( for your system) then Your system will destroy the battery not the other way around !!!!
Hi Kalat. I can see why you think in this way. You need to look at the power system as a system. Sometimes to visualize this you need to look at an extreme case. For example a c rating approaching 0 vs a c rating close to infinite. Then bring the learnings and scale them back to reality. C Rating of 10 vs 45. What happens to voltage, current and power? Also, your point on if your C Rating is too low, this too can actually burn up other power system components. specifically the ESC. You can find videos on how this can happen on the channel too.
@@RCexplained i think that Way because i am an electrician and the C-Rating is only a math Factor in a formular to calkulate the maximal possible Output amp of a Battery .. it has nothing to to with the Parameter of voltage of the Battery .. an elektik System of a Plane, ship or Car is defined from the Motor You use - the motor hat the Parameter of max RPM and Max AMP - With the max RPM and the KV Parameters You can Calkulate the Voltage You can Use and the Ampere wich will be drawn by< the Motor ... with these Informations You have to size the ESC and the Battery You need ... if You have an Motor wich draws max 60A You need at least an ESC and a Battery wich can Deliver and handle this amount of current... but is has no negative effect if you use an ESC and Battery wich can deliver 90 A
@KalatSaar your English is fine, a lot better than my German. My entire family background is German too. The c rating being "just" a math factor is the limitation in your argument. A c rating is used in the rc industry because it is easy to understand and quite honestly, easy to manipulate. Marketing departments love this as It's not a measured value that can be verified easily. What is a value you can measure is internal resistance. As the "c rating" of a battery increases, the batteries internal resistance decreases. With a lower internal resistance of the battery, it can provide a greater rate of discharge current. However, looking at the effect of the system, a lower resistance in the battery will maintain a higher loaded voltage at the battery. Keeping with the idea of looking at this from a system perspective, a higher battery voltage under load will cause the motor to draw more current. More current and more voltage = more power and more heat. This is what I meant by looking at this as a system and not strictly just a formula - max current = c rating x Ah. I created a calculator and graphed the relationship of c rating vs internal resistance and used many batteries as a sample set. There's a video on here about this titled find the true c rating of your battery.
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Ok so ive been looking into this for so SO long now ive lost sleep its affected my work, im dreaming of lipos chasing me up and down stairs in elevators and up the street and ive been to every retailer, RUclipsr and Rc/Hobbies forum on the planet, and from what ive found in a nutshell is this.
The "C" rating on batterys cannot destroy your motor or esc. Your motor/s or esc will only draw current required from the battery not the other way round (i.e the battery does not force this "C" rating through your motor/s esc's) the "C" rating is just there to tell you the safe discharge speed of the battery so going higher is always ok.
hope this helps.. I need to sleep now.
This is very true in general, (C Ratings should never lead to destruction of components) however, there is a scenario that many should be aware of and understand clearly. A higher C rating allows a system to maintain a higher voltage or lower voltage drop across the battery pack. With a higher voltage from the battery to the motor, the motor will draw more current. If your power system is already on or very near it's thermal threshold, this small bump in power can exceed the thermal threshold causing burnout or destroyed components. If you notice a bump in acceleration or speed from a higher C rating pack in an RC vehicle, this suggests the system is experiencing higher power output.
The second part of this is:
If this scenario is true for a power system, the power system has not been selected correctly. It is very critical that a power system is selected in such a way that allows for thermal headroom. This boosts reliability and performance.
There have been factory RC vehicles that are very sensitive to subtle voltage increases leading to motor destruction. A good example is part of the Latrax lineup. If you use a high C rating LiPo and do not monitor temps on the motor, you do risk motor burnout as experienced by many.
Yeah, i recently lost an esc this exact way. Pushed too far with 120c 10,000 on 150a esc. Got away with it for a while. I'm now monitoring temps, using better fans an used spacers to create an 4mm air gap between esc and mounting plate. Also set an alarm and lowered motor timing. Also can lower size of pinion to further drop the temps. Bash-On!👍
Good talk, thanks. I see a lot of people asking "what about my setup"
Do you know of an online website calculator that we can plug "known values" in and get a "solve for unknown variable." In this case I guess - Motor , ESC, and solve In relation to
S count ( voltage)
Current rating. ( that's the 20.30.40 etc. "C" rating ) yes?
So basically solve for acceptable c rating for given esc ( and motor if known) then choose voltage of the pack and solve for "c". Hope that made sense.
high c rating will not hurt the system as long as you are using the proper voltage, why because it will never pull more than it needs. this should be about sizing all the power system for the motor .. that includes the prop. under sizing will hurt the battery and the the power system .. sagging voltage increases the Amp draw. then you have heat
Exactly. C rating isn't going to damage your motors or escs.
True, C rating states how much current the battery can safely provide without overheating, not necessarily how much current will actually flow through the system.
You must not drag race.
I'm soo glad to know this. Cause I found some C batteries higher than 25C and learned from facebook that someone has burned out their esc.
Usually a higher C rating is more desirable. The lipo is a storage unit. The C rating relates to how much you can draw from it.
nicely explained best video explaining batteries exc. thank you
Glad you liked it!
It's simple
A Higher C Rating= More Power=Higher Motor and ESC temps.
I know this out of topic but i need help,a 4370kv brushless motor paired with 35a esc but will only runs on 2s lipo.will it give any trouble?
No it won't be trouble if you load the system less than 35A or your weakest link. Yes it will be a problem if you load your system to over 35A or your weakest link.
@@RCexplained will my 35A-SL esc run with 3S 11.1v 3500mah? I don't really sure what battery should i buy.tq
Hello, i don't think that's the right question. The question that will help would be: is my 35A ESC, 3500mAh battery and X motor going to be ok with using a 12x6 APC propeller.
Your battery will be fine if you don't plan on using a load. But it will fail horribly if you toss a 35x20in prop on there.
@@RCexplained tq for replying me, i actually want to know what is the maximum battery voltage suitable for my 35A esc. Im sorry my english is not really good.
Does the spec sheet not tell you the maximum?
Should also mention that c rating is relative to the mah, a lot of people think 30c 1000mah battery can deliver the same amount of amps as a 30c 5000mah. I have noticed higher c rated batteries can be slightly larger so some people may go to a smaller capacity to fit the pack not realising it reduces the max amp output
The Problem is .. that a lot of People By things without knowing what they do ... my tip is .. before You want do to something .. get the basic Knowledge !! C Rating is only a 1 factor in the calkulation what a battery pack can deliver : the formular is .. Capacity x C-Rating = max Amp Example .. 1000maH x 20C = 20A max Everything Above 20A can damage the Internals of the Battery !! and as a side effect other Parts of Your System ... but more C Rating cant be the Reason for a Defect. it is like You driving a car ...
if You drive 50km/h in a town .. it is not the Fault of a bigger Engine if You drive 100 and get caught !! or have an accident The C Rating alows You to use more Amps .. it is not the reason if these Amps damage any of the compnents in your system ...
I built a micro Apex with a SpeedyBee 20x20 35a F7 6S stack, Rush Tank Micro VTX and 6S 2204 motors.
It flew fine on 4S.
I used a Speedy Pizza 1200mah 100c 6S once.
The flight was just a short punchout and video was gone.
It fell out of the sky and broke an arm and no power.
I know the pack was heavy and I know the battery was able to supply the motors, but I don't think the ESC was able to keep up with those two.
Or am I wrong?
If an upgraded battery damages the ESC its because of an ESC motor mismatch, the battery only delivers current that the system asks for up to the max C rating. That is of course your not over volting the ESC.
Truth
So the answer to the question is "No", because the whole electrical system can only pull the current it needs to operate. So long as you don't overload the motor with too large a propeller. A battery doesn't push amps, they are drawn from it.
Hi! May i ask a question: i have a thermal issue with my motor. I ve been using chinese esc(bec 6v / 2a) and battery pack (2s 3000mah 35c) for 370 9volt 50000 rpm motor. i burned several motor already. what seems to be the problem? or which part do i need to change? i still want to use the same motor, but it keep overheating
So I put a 35 in my car and the when I turned it on the esc started smoking I’m confused on what to do
I’ve flown gas planes for 20yrs and have just bought the HobbyZone Husky 1800mm airplane. Power system: 3541-750Kv motor, 45A ESC. I bought a HRB 4000mAh 60C 4S. 4S is correct, but they suggest a 35C battery. Is this to much battery for the ESC? I do have a 100A ESC I could use. This electric battery jargon is much more complicated than gas engines I think. Thanks and I subbed. Think I’ll be able to learn a lot from you.
Having more than 35C is excellent. 60C will work well.
@@RCexplained thank you very much
Brother point is cleared and thank you for explanation
So nice of you, thanks!
I size my electrical components the same way I size my electrical circuits. You should never be exceeding 80% of a circuit's rated capacity. what that means is if you expect to pull 50 amps maximum on a motor then use the equation: max amps x 1.25 = min allowable rated amps (50 x 1.25= 62.5) amps meaning you should be sizing your ESC to handle at least 62.5 amps however nobody makes an ESC that specific so instead select the next highest capacity ie: 65 or 70 amps. It is also worth while to note if you don't expect to be running a motor at or near full throttle all the time you can choose to use the Esc's rated burst current instead. Most Esc's can handle 5- 10 amps more of burst current than sustained current. Once you have the proper ESC you should select the proper c rating and voltage to correspond with your motors and ESC. This is not really as cut and dry as battery manufacturers often overstate their c ratings so it is likely to just be trial and error. However you should note that a higher c rated battery will perform just fine operating below it's rated discharge. For a 50 amp discharge or higher I would recommend 75c -100c
Am using two 2200kv motors with two 40esc and my battery is 4200mah 25c. Is it good?
Hello,thanks for your sharing. I am new here, I am wondering how I could know the current the brushless motor need when it is operating
What are you placing this motor in?
@@RCexplained with propeller, to provide thrust force to the robot car to climb on the wall
@@leyuanma4886 for a motor with a propeller you can use an online calculator such as ecalc.
RCexplained Wow! Amazing calculator!Thanks a lot for your answer! Really helps me a lot!
hi, for a flashlight that need 6A load, if i buy a 35A battery will damage the system? the voltage still 3.7v 10A or 35A...
Hello, I like your delivery, excellent!
I am new to rc, new subscriber, will studying your tutorials.
I have a ground wire on my son's 1/18 Himoto buggy that it's getting fried. It travels from the receiver to the esc. No other wires burned. 2S battery.
Hobby store guy says just keep replacing wires.
This doesn't sound right.
Any ideas?
Thanks for the info!
This does not sound right for sure. Is the fried wire the brown or black one in the 3 leads from the esc to receiver?
Are there any extra components that have been installed on the receiver? For example an after market light module plugged in to the receiver.
@@RCexplained thank you for the reply, much appreciated!
So the black wire alone, from the receiver to the esc, is burned.
No other wires affected.
No upgrades, all stock.
The other thing that I forgot to mention, is that the motor burned out twice. The hobby shop replaced them for free, stating coincidental crappy motor. Hmm.
Though bad motors happen, one immediately after the other, is too much of a coincidence.
Also, the wire seems to be fairly evenly burned throughout the entire length, with some spots where metal burned through. This seems to indicate that it was excess power, instead of heat emanating from receiver or esc.
Very strange. Im no electrical expert by far, though your videos have increased my knowledge greatly.
Thanks again!
@@MrsRabbit8 I'd agree that it sounds like excess power traveling in this black wire. I would expect something in the radio receiver system is defective. You should not experience radio power wires getting hot enough to melt the insulation of the wire.
It does suggest to me that something within the radio system is pulling a lot of power. Is the servo buzzing excessively when no control input is provided? Does the receiver seem excessively hot when the RC is powered on for several minutes already?
My NMHi battery is warm after a run is this normal,it’s a 2400 MaH 6 cell Thankyou
Hello! I have a question wether my setup seems good;
120a ESC
3300kv motor
4S 2200 mah 120c
No
So I currently have a rafale that suggests using a 2200mAH 25C 14.8V battery but I can't find any online, just to confirm it won't ruin the the motor to use a 14.8V 220mAH 50C battery then?
Very good infomation,tq sir
This is opposite of what all other places say about the c rating. It just says how much your esc and motor pulls. Your esc would have to pull more power then it can handle which would mean it is already broken
Why would an ESC be broken if it has more power pulled through it then it can handle?
@@RCexplained Electronics are design to pull the power they need and not just pull all the power they can. If the hardware or programing of your esc makes it pull more power then it is designed to do and burns it self out, that is broken. Now if you put a higher volt battery that pushes power into the esc and burns it up that is different. One is pulling power and one is pushing power.
@R2D242D interesting perspective on how physics works. This is a very different thing then what is taught on this channel.
Hi hope you are fine, thank for your videos, they are very helpful.
I have just one question on my new surpass hobby motor I see 3 specs for the Amps:
Max amps for the motor: 66 A
And for the ESC are two
Cont. Current/Burst Current: 45A/240 A
The question is, which out of those amps do I have to match with the C raiting?, The 66 amps from the motor or the 45A/240A cont/burst from the ESC?
Hello, you always want to consider selecting your system based off of continuous current. Not peaks or bursts. Ideally you would know how much power you are going to load your motor to and base your system on this.
Can a 25a esc handle a 2s lipo 1300mah 100c. With a 5800 kv motor
What would happen if you connect a 30c battery to a 40c esc?
Nothing, cuase it can handle the 40C
Can I use 3s (11.1) volt 30C lipo battery on my ct6b transmitter for rc ? Will it cause any problem to my transmitter due to high discharge rate?? By the way ur videos r great.
What batteries do you normally place in to your CT6B?
Can I use a 6500mph 65c or Regular 5200mph 50c battery pack on my traxxas mini Maxx
yes
Great series.. I raced RC cars in the 90's - and looking in on the modern electrics , much has changed (!)
I read somewhere that a brushless system speed controller can be stressed/damaged by a battery pack which doesn't produce enough power/current.. is this the case, and what should I look for in speed controller specs that indicates the minimum battery spec it needs?
Hi Rob, glad you are back looking in to current components that power our RC's. That is awesome! You are correct, a battery pack that does not supply enough power can destroy an ESC. To select a battery pack, you need to know how many amps your system is going to draw. This value multiplied by 1.5-2.0 is where I like to be in terms of the maximum continuous discharge current for the battery pack. The more head room you have the higher the reliability will be in your system.
It's a shame that the plug-in play configurations are teaching Newbies to not pay attention to the setting up, testing and understanding of their equipment! I see it literally every time at the field where the individuals buy the epo foam planes and know nothing about anything other than throwing a battery in it and flying, then they throw a switch on their ASX equipped radio receiver and plant it in the ground.. .
Subbed bro. Just wondering. I have a 2s 7.4v 4500 lipo 45c 2pcs working with series (4s) with 120amp esc hobby wing. Is it okay with that 45c rating? And what happen to the C rating if use in series? Do they doubled?. what do u recommend best fit on my 120amps hobby wing esc.?
The C rating is unchanged no matter how the battery is wired. What are you looking for to use on your 120A ESC, Battery or Motor? Is this for an airplane, car, boat?
@@RCexplained oh okay. Best c rating to use on my 120amps esc by using 2pcs 2s lipo battery in series. For an rc car. The dhk maximus.
For that RC I would get the highest C rating that you can. The higher the better.
@@RCexplained okay thankyou so much!
Bro are you a tutor of robotics because I am searching for it
No sorry.
Actually you do more damage to batteries when charging or discharging them cold. They are meant to be warm but not dangerously so.
This is good stuff! Thank you for infos. As an RC noob myself im still learning everything as well. Still kind of confused on some things when it comes to the ESC on the car. For example, I purchased a Redcat Shredder and it says it has a HobbyWing 80Amp 4S Waterproof ESC (also come with a high torque 1300kv motor). And I know it runs 2, 2s lipo batteries so I purchased 2 Zeee 7.4V 60C 6200mAh lipo batteries. I hope I didn't purchase the wrong ones lol.
My understand is that the ESC wouldn't ask for more power above what it could handle. Are those Zees lipos that I purchased too strong for the RedCat Shredder XTE to handle ?? Any help would be awesome!!
The ESC doesn't ask for power. The load that is placed on the power system is what determines the power output for the rest of the system. It is then up to the system to be able to supply it. If the ESC can not supply the current the motor is demanding, it can overheat and fail. Buying high c rated batteries is the best option for nearly all applications.
@@RCexplained Awesome! Thank you for replying and clearing it all up, highly appreciated dude!
I have two questions
1: I have 80 amp esc and motor combo with esc peak current 520 amps and my battery is 6500 mah 50C do i have ok battery for it and does the peak current of the esc matter for the battery?
2: So if my esc and motor is hot than i have ok or high c rating and if my battery is hot than i have low c rating and what if its all hot?
hi, thanks for the explanation! but i still have issues grasping this...
so as i currently am experiencing some heat problems with my 1/12 rc basher, i don't know how to deal with it, please help out..
here is my problem: currently the motor, the ECU and the batteries are getting hot to the touch. i can hold the batteries in my palm but they are quite hot not just warm, on the motor i can't keep my finger for more than 2 seconds and the ECU is quite warm but not hot.
what do i do?
by what i can understand from your explanation i can do the following:
- get a battery with better continuous current output. but then i will overheat the motor even more, no?
- or get a better motor that will not overheat for the current power usage. but then the batteries will be forced even more and heat-up more, no?
- get both a better battery and a better motor, and that will cause the ECU to overheat, no?
- get a better battery, better motor and better ECU...aaaand....we're back to where i've started from 😋
now i'm stuck 😋
just to rule this out: i've tried cleaning all the bearings and lubing/greasing everything up so that it runs smoother but didn't help :(
Hi Chris, are you able to reduce the size of the pinion gear on the motor?
I have a cheap rc car as a "beater" and have an extra for parts. The battery is a 9.6v and that mah isn't high at all. Could I wire them in parallel without any concern?
You can wire two 9.6v batteries in parallel to increase the discharge capacity.
I bought a RC car that is coming with a cheap esc / receiver (hbx 16889a pro) and its esc should take 7.4 (coming with a lipo 1000mAh 25C), I was thinking to buy indeed a higher rating like 50-75 or anyway not over 100c with 2000mAh, do you think it is crazy? (also I'll try a 3S 25C 1000mHa to see if the system can handle it as so many people are fine with it)
Of course before or after I'll probably upgrade esc / receiver with a 60A but so far people are not doing it and using it with no problems, I was thinking to give it a try..
And a second very important question (I'm a beginner and I'm trying to avoid problems): you must storage / balance the battery? as the car came with a cheap usb charger that can not do it so I'm wondering if it is dangerous or not using only that simple charger.
Thanks in advance and great video!
Upgrading to a higher C rating and capacity should be fine. Just monitor temperatures on the motor, ESC and battery.
As for trying a 3S 25C 1000mAh battery, this will significantly bump the power up. You must monitor temps on your system.
Regarding your second question, you must balance the battery. Your charger should be doing this.
Charging or discharging your battery for storage is going to make your battery last for many more years. You can do this with a voltage checker and your RC Car. I'd highly recommend watching more videos on the channel about LiPo battery's.
@@RCexplained thanks, I'll be very careful with the 3S and I know it is 50-50 the probability that can this truck can handle it (it seems that I guy got 2 trucks and only in one is working fine).
For the storage..well, if I understood good it is more if I care about keeping for longer time the battery alive so maybe I'll start with it's simple usb balance charger and then I'll get probably the B6 so I can storage them, but from the view of a beginner sounds a bit annoying to storage 2-3 battery after using it and charging again the day before I use them.
Anyway thanks for your answer mate
@@RCexplained at the end I bought the B6 charger, so I'll start to storage the battery that I'm waiting to receive from the beginning, thanks for the tips! ;)
ps: I also needed to check the 3S before and after a run so far the esc is made for 7.4V, for 25€ I'll sleep better checking it
From a factory 30c down to a 20c safe? Am guessing more run time?
Safe would be to go I'm the other direction. The higher the c rating, the better off everything is.
Run time is based on capacity measured in mAh.
What would happen if I ran a 7.2v battery on a 7.4v motor
you help me out so much i am so thankfull but ive looked high and low for this.... 1/16 on 2435 3300kv brushless motor and a 13t pinion and 1550mah 35c 2s ....i am looking at waterproof setup and see hobbwing wp-16BL30 witch is 30amp..is the lipo c rating to much for 30amp esc if so ill just go 60amp but the esc is hugh haha
My battery drones is 11.1volts 2,500mah 30c can I use 5500mah 50c 11.1voltage I hope u answer my question tnx?
My drone motor 2200 kV ,esc 30 amp , lipo 11.1 5200 mah 25c is it all ok?
Yo bro thank you it makes more sense for the issues I was having I have a proboat velez 29 catamaran and I was having issues with my cheap rc truck lipos for this boat and I bought a higher output better socially rated lipos among the rc community and had less heat in the batteries and the 120a esc as well as the batteries don't get as hot (on 6s mind you the boat planes real fast on 6s and as such has less resistance over the battery usage) now on 4s even with the better batteries I was still getting alot of heat in the batteries and the motor and the esc so I am thinking for next season when I go to run my boat I will be using the high speed racing lipos that are rated at 120c for the 4s application and the mid range good lipos for 6s but I also bought 6s 120c racing lipos those are ok to use as well right?? Or is it best to only run those once in a while
The higher the C rating, the better off the setup will be.
Question, if I have a 1500mah/15C battery would my RC go significantly faster with a 1500mah/60C battery? Is there a speed difference?
There should not be much difference in top speed.
@@RCexplained Ty, still new to RC’s, started off with a Hosim 9156 which has a 550 motor and is already pretty fast but I’d like to go faster. Any tips? Maybe a different motor? Or can you suggest another RTR RC under $200?
Hey, I got a question. I’m new and I’m planning to buy a hbx 2995 and it uses 2s 30c 7.4v lipos. Would I be able to run 3s 45c 11.1v lipos without much problems? I’m also planning to buy an esc fan as well
You would have to look at the specs of the truck. Can it accept that increase in voltage? Is it rated for a higher voltage?
@@RCexplained I really don’t have much clue because their isn’t any information on Amazon stating if it can handle increased voltages. I’m looking through it and all I can find is that the esc voltage input is 7.4v idk what that really means but it seems like it probably won’t be able to handle 3s
Hello, I have a Maverick strada mt with the msc-30bl-wp esc (wich I think is broken by the way). I have used a 3s lipo, 6000 mah, 40 c. Could that have damaged it? The battery being to big I mean. The specifications of the esc say continuous current 45 A and burst current 220 A. After my calculations, my battery has an output of 240 amps? Is that too much? Thank you in advance 🙂
It is the load that you apply to the motor that determines the current draw through the system. Thee battery won't push its 240A continuous current if the system doesn't demand it.
@@RCexplained thank you. I didn't actually write about the symptoms of the car. If I hold it in the air, the wheels spin like hell. As soon as I put it down, it barely moves and stutters a lot. Occasionally it also shuts down after trying it on the floor for 10-15 seconds. I asked around and a lot of people said it's the gears, it's not mechanical, I checked. Then some people said the battery is not good, I tried it with 3 different batteries including the powerful 3s. Last 3-4 times I ran it, I noticed there where a lot of short power breakouts while driving. I could really use your opinion on this. Thank you in advance again 🙂
what are you geared at? what kv are you using?
@@RCexplained the motor is brushless 3215 kv and standard gears 48t 0,8 spur and 15t 0,8 the small one. The model is Maverick Strada Brushless MT.
I have a 35a esc that can run 4-6s lipos. Some motors started to twitch and not spin so I got a new esc, after a few flights same thing again, could this be because im running 4s 1500 100c, is it too much for the esc? When it flys, I run packs after packs. But when it stops both times it was the first flight of the day within seconds
The higher the C rating, the better for the ESC. What motor are you using?
Sir hello i have a 60a esc and a 3s battery,i have a 25c and a 35c battery that i am currently using on a 1/8 truggy,am i on the right path? Or what is the max c rating that i could pair with my esc sir? Thank you so much
Highest c rating you can.
@@RCexplained thank you sir
I understand i think😊 I'm just guna shove a 3s 4800 11.1v lipo into a 60a esc and 9t motor since my 2s 7.4v 2200mah lipo got a bit warm.
Are you hoping to hit faster speeds with the 3s?
What about 50C in a brushed, what is the limit C for an brushed motor.
You may try, just monitor changes in operating temps.
I have 4000 mah 3s 40c battery and 2200 kva motors which esc should be best for making rc aeroplane one motor model ?
Hello. It's not enough information to answer the question. What motor? What airplane?
@@RCexplained sir it's 2200 kva bldc motors and I am building rc aeroplane help me I buy blheli 30A esc 4s from AliExpress I'm I right
I’m not sure if anyone will see this, but I have a 80c lipo, would it work with a 25-45c esc? I did not really understand what he said
ESC's don't have C ratings.
Hi and thank you for the video. I'm new to RC car, can you please advise me what battery is best suited for my Xinlehong 9125 (eg C rating)? These are the stock specs below, but I'm wanting to run it on 3S.
.
2x 390 electric brushed motor
60 ah motor drive
Servo 2.2 kg
1:10 scale
2S Li-Po 7.4v 1600 mah deans
ESC 60 amps
Thanks very much.
hey bro I had the same problem but i got the solution thanks a proffesional so the best 3s battery for the xinelehong is this
www.banggood.com/ZOP-Power-11_1V-3300MAH-3S-35C-Lipo-Battery-XT60-Plug-p-955392.html?cur_warehouse=CN&rmmds=search
your welcome :)
I use 3700 mah 130c lipo,90 amp esc and 4480 kv and 37 mm prop brushless motor for my rc boat...its getting hot on my ec5 and banana bullet 6 mm....and loose power when i play just 3 time full trigger....why is this happen...
Sounds like you are pulling too much current. Your setup is ideal for a 2s battery. I'd expect you are using something different.
Can a 120A esc and a kv2030 brushless motor and a 9kg servo can take 7.4v 3200mah + 11.1v 2200mah battery power
Hello Farid, I don't understand you question. The LiPo batteries you have listed should not be placed in series or parallel. That's all I can make out from your question.
Can i use a 11.1v 5200mah 80c battery with 60a esc and 3300kv motor?? or should i get a 5000mah 50c 11.1v?
Depends on the rest of your setup. Both packs sound good enough.
Hye sir..if i use 120a esc for 1/8 scale with motor 3670 2650kv,in esc spec can use 2s-4s battery,and i think i want to use 4s lipo below 6100mah with 90c rating..its that ok to this setup..because in motor spec maximum voltage 18.5v max current 86a and watt 1600..or i can go more high c rating like 110c or 120c..thank u for helping..😉😉
I have a 11.1V 50c 2200 mAH and it killed.my esc witch was a 30a what Amp should I get for an esc
How do you know the battery killed your ESC?
The battery does not push current through your ESC. The power system pulls the amount of current it needs. If your ESC burned up due to excessive current/heat chances are it was over loaded.
I had a 2s 7.4 v 3300mah 30c battery and a 100a esc in my rc boat then i bought a 2s 7.4 5000mah 60c battery and when i plugged it in the boat didn't start. Is the esc destroyed?
Plugging in a battery within the voltage range of the ESC should not destroy it. Did it smoke?
It was something wrong with my receiver. Now it works :)
Higher mah on battery can damage motor or not? Depends on the situation?
If your setup is selected correctly, higher mAh will not damage anything.
@@RCexplained what do you mean by setup correctly?
@@RCexplained please explain im a newbie 🥺🤗
If your setup can handle the sustained power over a long period of time, battery capacity or longer run times will not damage anything.
If your power system gets very hot after a short run and you get a larger battery pack, there is a chance the increase in run time will push your system over its thermal limits.
@@RCexplained thank you
It is safe for a dual 70 a esc with dual 3100kv motors run on a single 3s 3600mah 40c ?
Hey Kurt. There are some electric skateboard dual ESC'S that are designed and wired to use just one battery. In most cases this should be totally ok to do. If you have any doubt, confirming with the manufacture would be best.
so it should be fine to use a 25c battery on a 20c system?
What is a 20C system?
@@RCexplained cam drone with 1000kv motor with 30amp esc using
lithium ion 18650 (3.7 volt 1200mah) in 3 series or 18650 (3.7volt 2200mah) in 3s fly?
What could go wrong ?
It would be impossible to tell you if it can fly and also if it can work. I don't know what airplane you gavr nor the exact components you will be using in it.
@@RCexplained ahh my bad! Iam talking about drone! Instead of polymer iam planning to use li ion for long duration by sacrificing performance! Any help??
It is possible but will be a bit more challenging due to the limited output of the 18650's.
I have 40a esc hobbywing.. and stock nimh 2000mah battery.. my hobbywing esc can switch nimh and lipo 2~3sbattery.. if i wanna upgrade to using lipo.. what c rating suitable if i wanna play more times my Rc.. tq
The higher the C rating the better
Mayve I should have checked online for a calculator first... There's a ton of stuff out there. Disregard my previous post. Thanks
I have a 3s/4s Proboat with 2300kv motor in it and a 100amp esc in it (stock)
But my esc has burned up within minutes. Now I have orderd a 150amo esc (i will not run higher them 4s) But now other say I cannot run a 150amp esc on a 2300kv motor. But why?! If im just running max 4s then I shouldnt matter how big my esc is, isnt?
I'm not sure what those who are saying "you cannot" are getting at. Without knowing your full setup, it is not enough information to say you can or can not run that ESC with that motor.
@@RCexplained my Proboat Recoil 2 (26inch) is bone stock. This is my first boat and it can run stock 3s or 4s. But my stock (100amp) esc burned up..
I will get a new ( stock 100amp) esc from the hobbyshop, but also orderd a aftermarktet 150amp esc. I thought maybe an overkill esc will burn up less quickly then a 100amp esc.
Im doing Rc cars for more then 10yrs and im running allot of 4s motors with a 150amp esc's on it to be extra save. Especialy when im using a bigger pinion.
But im new in boats and wanted to know if just putting a bigger esc in a all stock 4s boat will cause problems (i just running 4s only in stock set up. Only a bigger amp.esc)
@@JvD1985 with nothing else changing, a higher rated esc will be fine.
@@RCexplained thanks for the confirmation 💪🏼
If me esc needs 45 amps then that's all it should take so high C battery shouldn't matter? In the automotive world that's how it works, my car needs up 550 cold cranking amps but I can put a 1000 CCA battery in and it only takes 550 CCA for example... so I don't think a higher C battery for an RC toy should matter... maybe if there is something wrong in the esc or in the motor ie. bad connection but it the esc, motor and connections are all good then it's only going to pull 45amps . Or if you where to hold the wheels from turning and hold full throttle then it would burn out at the weakest link but that would happen even with the proper spec. setup ..... right or am I missing something?
There are many who live in cold climates that need more than the specified CCA amount. And there are some that live in frigid weather where all the CCA they can buy is not enough. In these temperatures they don't shut their cars off! Imagine that.
It's important for individuals living in these extremely cold climates to choose a battery with an adequate CCA rating, and in some cases, opt for a battery with a higher CCA than the manufacturer's recommendation to ensure reliable starting in harsh winter conditions.
I know that... but the car is going to pull only what is needed provided the battery is capable..... so if it put I 120c lipo on a 30c set up it should hurt anything as long as all components and conditions and good.... the esc and motor are only going to use what they are rated for.... now if it used a high voltage and a system not designed for it then "you" would burn things up.... at least and a mechanic for 30 years that's what we where taught... eg. In 12v automobile the amperage doesn't matter as long as the battery meets or exceeds the demand... but if You were to put 24 volts to the car "you'd fry the system
For a high percentage of all setups, it is encouraged to run the highest C rating battery as possible. I simply made an exception for this rule in a case where the motor is already at max thermal limit and an even higher C rating battery is used. This would then push the motor over temp.
Do note the motor and ESC can and will use more than they are rated for if the load forces it to. Load controls the current in the circuit.
is 25c good for arrma Mojave 4s?
Can a 50A speed controller run with a 2s 4000mAh 50c battery?
Yes, however there is a lot more to it than what you have asked. The 50A ESC could potentially work with any 2s battery that you would have asked about.
@@RCexplained Thanks you, but I forgot to mention that this ESC runs a 3000KV motor. Can it still run with a 4000mAh 2S 50C battery?
*Sorry for my bad English*
@@muerto3836 The quick answer is yes it more than likely can. However, if you are trying to turn a 1500mm propeller direct drive, then no it can't. The point is, you have to be certain that the load you place on the system does not exceed what the system can handle.
@@RCexplained Okay thanks for your help!!
I will leave you a sub😋
Will a 6200mah 80c lipo kill my Wltoys 144001?
If you have longer run times, just watch heat in the battery, ESC and motor. The C rating should never kill an RC with a correctly selected power system.
To anybody who can answer: I'd like to run an after market esc from amazon for my micro crawler scx24. It has an 88T motor , 2s 500mah battery. What should I get a 30a esc or 20a or 10a? Thank you.
A 20A would be ultra safe
good stuff
Could a 70 amp each work with a 2200 4s lipo 50c?
What are you putting those pieces in to? That's what determines if it is ok.
@@RCexplained to a 70amp esc with a brushless 4000kv motor
I found a calculation that says my battery is about 150 amps but my esc is 45 amps I believe and my power system is getting really hot I think that’s my problem? 5000 mah 30c zippy hardcase mah x c rating %1000
The problem is there is too much load on your motor. Gear down or prop down.
@@RCexplained I tried gearing down and it’s super slow or has the problem of the motor getting hot and esc stays normal heat
Im using 11v 2200mah 25c s3 lipo and 40a esc 5v , A2212 motor and the esc burned twice , i cant find the problem ((rc plane)
What kv and prop? How many amps were you pulling from the system?
@@RCexplained 8/6 props 1400kv , but dont have ampmeter to fnd out (im noob btw)
@@halash447 setup sounds ok. It would be a good idea to buy a watt meter and measure what is happening in your system.
@@RCexplained thank you very much i will also change my motor which could be blocked , all the best and thx for ur advice
Can i use 2s 7.4v 2200 mah 120c at esc 45a Brushless?? Its posible esc can burn??
It's only possible for anything to burn if the load (too much propeller or gearing) on your system is too high.
Tq masstaaaa
Can I go from a 1000 mah 7.4 25c to a 5000 mah 7.4 80c?
In general yes.
@@RCexplained but will it burn the motor and the ecu? And will it make it faster as will?
If your power system has been selected correctly, it will not cause issue.
@@RCexplained okay thank you
I want this in series in dhk maximus
I don't recommend placing those batteries in series.
When i connect a 11.1v 6000mAh 60C and a esc only hav 30C, it have some smoke in the connection between these two. Is it because the battery’s C is too high for the esc to support?
I'm assuming you mean ESC @ 30A. Do you also mean the spark that you see when plugging in the ESC to the battery? This is caused the surge in power that the capacitors on the ESC will pull. This is completely normal.
Why does everyone say that a higher C rating will definitely destroy your electronics? Seems so illogical
I'm not sure.
i think it starts here, it gives an impression that C rating is an indicator of how strong the battery will push its juice into the motor instead of how fast a battery can be discharged ruclips.net/video/hGNhnvwJpbY/видео.html
Hi. I subbed. Great videos. I have a question. My losi 8ight 3.0e buggy i built to do 100mph. I crashed it. And fixed it. Battery tray and motor mount. I run one 6s lipo. It was doing great before crash. Now no matter what battery i use it wont go over 80 mph. Do i think its esc or cap pack issue?
Thanks for the sub, I answered this question on the other video comment you left. Check it out.
I got a 60a esc im going from 30c to 50c 2s with a 3300 kv sensorless motor im noob so thanks in advance
Don't exceed the limitations of your components and you will be fine.
One simple answer, NO.
I have a 80c battery that gets my aarma pretty hot and I was about to buy a 150c hahaha never mind
That could be true that you system could go over temp if its at the limit as is. Here's another point to keep in mind as well when looking at batteries:
I haven't been able to measure any packs rated above 75C as an accurate value. In other words, I believe my 75C pack could out perform the 80C and 150C pack that you are referencing. There's another part of the equation and that is the reality of this non-regulated C rating.
@@RCexplained ahhh thank you very much I subscribed!!
STOP ... Your first Fact is definetly Wrong ... a higher C rate on a Battery Pack cant do anything to Your Power system .-.. reason is ... The C Rating defines only the possible Amps wich can be drawn of the Battery Pack without damaging this Battery .. and nothing else ... the CRating has no effect on how much Amps your Systems draws from a Battery or changes any other parameter of your existing system ... !! the C-Rating has no effect on Any of the components in Your system .. exept the Battery Pack itself ... - if the C-.Rating on your battery ist to low ... ( for your system) then Your system will destroy the battery not the other way around !!!!
Hi Kalat. I can see why you think in this way. You need to look at the power system as a system. Sometimes to visualize this you need to look at an extreme case. For example a c rating approaching 0 vs a c rating close to infinite. Then bring the learnings and scale them back to reality. C Rating of 10 vs 45. What happens to voltage, current and power?
Also, your point on if your C Rating is too low, this too can actually burn up other power system components. specifically the ESC. You can find videos on how this can happen on the channel too.
@@RCexplained i think that Way because i am an electrician and the C-Rating is only a math Factor in a formular to calkulate the maximal possible Output amp of a Battery .. it has nothing to to with the Parameter of voltage of the Battery .. an elektik System of a Plane, ship or Car is defined from the Motor You use - the motor hat the Parameter of max RPM and Max AMP - With the max RPM and the KV Parameters You can Calkulate the Voltage You can Use and the Ampere wich will be drawn by< the Motor ... with these Informations You have to size the ESC and the Battery You need ...
if You have an Motor wich draws max 60A You need at least an ESC and a Battery wich can Deliver and handle this amount of current... but is has no negative effect if you use an ESC and Battery wich can deliver 90 A
and sorry about my English .. i am from Germany and a little older than most of You
@KalatSaar your English is fine, a lot better than my German. My entire family background is German too.
The c rating being "just" a math factor is the limitation in your argument. A c rating is used in the rc industry because it is easy to understand and quite honestly, easy to manipulate. Marketing departments love this as It's not a measured value that can be verified easily.
What is a value you can measure is internal resistance. As the "c rating" of a battery increases, the batteries internal resistance decreases.
With a lower internal resistance of the battery, it can provide a greater rate of discharge current. However, looking at the effect of the system, a lower resistance in the battery will maintain a higher loaded voltage at the battery. Keeping with the idea of looking at this from a system perspective, a higher battery voltage under load will cause the motor to draw more current. More current and more voltage = more power and more heat.
This is what I meant by looking at this as a system and not strictly just a formula - max current = c rating x Ah.
I created a calculator and graphed the relationship of c rating vs internal resistance and used many batteries as a sample set. There's a video on here about this titled find the true c rating of your battery.
Can a stock Xmaxx be ok with a 4s 100c battery?
yes, higher the C rating the better