David, thank you for the video. I replaced my switch in about 15 minutes including disconnecting and reconnecting the battery. I have a 5 gallon bucket with swivel lid and sitting on it, I was able to lean backwards over the floorboard and see everything. Make sure you note how the switch is on the rod before removing. My Motorcraft switch was $68. For those of you who like to fix and not replace, remove the switch. Using a jewelers size flat head screwdriver, pry outward on the tabs keeping the plastic halves of the switch together. More than likely, the #1 and #2 wiring contacts are carboned up from the making and breaking of the contacts. The contacts can be pried out, cleaned, filed flat like the points in older cars. Carefully file as to not take much metal away. The movement of the contact leaves is unknown and to much metal gone may mean that contact is not made. Reinstall in reverse order. I'm keeping my old switch although I do not know why. Just the old man in me. My Ford is a 2007 F150. Even if you file the contact points and reinstall, it is less than an hour fix. You decide what you want to do. I make no promises.
Some people think it is and some people think it is not. Depending on model of truck you may have a lot of computer controlled accessories connected if the truck is a base model like this dump truck Not necessary
Your video definitely got me on the right track. The issue for me on a 1997 F-250 was in the ignition. I pushed the pin and pulled the ignition out only to see a loose wire. It's a wire that comes along the outside of the ignition and goes into the shaft. I used duct tape to secure it in place, popped the ignition back in place, and everything works great after 15 times starting it up. I wouldn't have known where to start, or even where to go without your video. Thank you so much!
Thank You David.......Wish You were Here To Fix My Wife's Truck, I am Ready To get her out of mind......The Gear Shift is stuck in Park & Her Tail lights aren't working.....My Brother in Law said it is a Fuse out....I Have checked all the fuses....So I guess I will do the steps you just suggested Tomorrow. Thanks Again!
Thanks so much for this video. I took my dash off to replace an HVAC sensor got everything put back together then no brake lights, stuck in park, advanced track and down hill control fault… was scared shitless thinking I am about to spend a butt load of money to get it fix. Then I came across your video and gave it a try and boom everything works like it should!
I tested my brakes, they do not come on, going to assume this is the issue. Thank you ahead of time for the video. I was about to rip the shifter column apart again. Last time I did was because of a thin plastic shim wore out... Checked fuse, it’s blown. Make sure to check your fuses.
Dave, I followed your instructions, it all made sense, and I got the new switch installed. I was quite proud. Problem though,....my 2002 F-150 still still stuck in park. There's no change in the situation. Did I do something wrong?
@CheerfulHoldingCards-zo5wd If you don’t hear a click when stepping on the brake pad then it’s ether the brake switch or the child safety lock solenoid located on top of the steering column towards the back I had one that the wire broke off and one that burned out Worst case go under the truck on trans drivers side u can “pull” the locking clip off the retainer and move the lever into any gear you need but please block the tires and have someone step on the brake pedal Engine running
@DavidsHowtosReviews I have been puzzled after changing the starter on my 2001 Ford Excursion. Got it running but stuck in park. I will try this method today. My fix was turning key to on position, shifting into Neutral then starting the truck. Once started I can shift to Drive but that irritates me as a temporary fix because I know it ain't right.
I got a ford sport trac n mine did this this morning n I just got to work n looked up the problem n that’s how I found this so ty hopefully this is all that’s wrong bc I really dnt wanna have get a diff vehicle 🙁
My problem was a bad ground connection right under fuse box inside of truck , was rusted out badly when I went to take out bolt the whole metal wall came out
I've checked all of the fuses and they are all good. i have an 04' e-150 with the truck stuck in park. no turn signals or hazards, no back lights when pressed on brakes either. im completely lost.
I would definitely check the turn shift lever they tend to do this when they go bad www.carparts.com/details/Ford/E-350_Super_Duty/Replacement/Turn_Signal_Switch/2008/REPF505801.html?TID=gglpla&origin=pla&&&gclid=CjwKCAjwm4ukBhAuEiwA0zQxk5Mw13C64F0siSkKzamrGCZCntElQ2VQ3gbKlZxBhdZmZu4ok-00fhoCFzkQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Same issue on my 2009 crown Victoria interceptor. Put a trailer harness on afterwards got stuck shifter and no brake lights. Going to change the switch tomorrow. thanks Update the new brake switch fixed the issue
fixed my problem, thanks, one tip I might add, your brake pedal is spring loaded, when you remove the switch, the pedal has the potential of swinging into your face, hold on to the pedal when removing the switch. Otherwise a simple fix.
john gaffney I’ve never has a problem but I will ck into it on the next one I do.. thanks for watching and am always welcoming suggestions and helpful tips.. always nice to learn from others.. 👍
I guess this could also be the problem with a Ford e250 as well huh? I'm having the exact same issue. I have to start the van from neutral, then put it in drive that way. No brake lights though.
Joshua Kaeble Brake lights and shifter are usually two separate circuits Sounds to me like the shifter selector which is located on the transmission may have a problem and may need to be swapped out you will see it as the cable connects to it on the transmission driver side The only thing that the brake controls is the solenoid to take the shifter selector out of park All this should be the same ford uses all the same mechanical parts, it’s just the body that changes
My truck will do couple of things, mostly when my truck is cold, not always. 1. Remote start disables 2. I turn ignition press brake pedal, the a message on dash "Hill start assist not available" It wont shift out of park. As the truck warms up it seems to go away. Any idea?
Check the fuse block if on drivers side You will need to check for water damage from leaking windshield If on passenger side (right by foot) you will be checking for water damage from leaking clearance lights on the roof or windshield leaking
Question..... I've been having an issue where I'm stuck in park. However, a couple good raps on the steering wheel (as if your beating on the wheel) will allow it to get out of park. Is there a pin or something that can get stuck? I've never noticed a problem with no brake lights. So thinking the switch is working normal, however something isn't disengaging when I put my foot on the brake. At times, I can even move the tilt and it helps. I've got my methods to get it out of park when it's being difficult. Oddly, it's not always a problem. IDEAS?!
Ok Take the plastic off by the three screws on the bottom In order to get the top plastic cover off u will need to turn the ignition to on but don’t start engine You will see a hole under the ignition cylinder, with small Philips screw driver or pick push pin in and pull out cylinder. Under plastic cover you will see the linkage a pin and the child safety solenoid ck for cracks or if pin is coming out With ignition on step on brake make sure the child safety solenoid works check the wire to make sure it’s not loose.
Also under the dash at the end of the steering column you will find a plate make sure all the bolts are tight and that everything seems in ok This bolts tend to loosen up over time.
@@DavidsHowtosReviews Thank you sir... Thus far, I have already checked the Ford F87Z-13480-AA switch, it's working fine and clicks EVERY SINGLE time I push on the brake. Never had a problem with brake lights working or not. I believe it's the Shift Interlock Solenoid, and will be replacing it tomorrow. When I do that, I'll also check the bolts and other hardware for tightness. Thanks again for your response(s).
My issue is it's intermittent it unlocks for a short while then starts acting up again. If I pump the breaks it seems to start working, less and less often as time goes by. So I am guessing it is the switch on the steering column that is wearingj out?
johndi1962 Turn key in ignition and play with the switch on the pedal with your hand. Then push the pedal slowly u should hear the click from the column. I have only had one solenoid go bad Make sure the pin on the brake pedal arm is ok. Look at the switch mounting hole also. If all checks out ok then check the Electric solenoid on top of the column Check the wires for the solenoid.
Im really not sure, but its a possibility a lot of companies tend to use ideas from other companies. trouble shoot it first then try itif it seems to be the problem. good luck
If you have brake lights and you can’t get it out of park then u may need to just replace the child safety park solenoid Check the wire/wires going to it on the top of the steering column
Top of the steering column is the safety solenoid it may have to be replaced. Check for voltage at solenoid just make sure u are pressing the brakes when checking.
@@michaelmontes9820 It will look something like this just make sure you get the correct one for your Yr make and model Dorman 924-733 Shift Interlock Solenoid Compatible with Select Ford / Lincoln / Mercury Models a.co/d/iFQfGjD
The fluid would not do it . If you have brake lights, then it more then likely the child safety solenoid needs to be replaced or the there is a problem with the linkage
Can someone please help me my truck will not shift if my heater control is pass one but if it’s at one notch truck will shift oh also my light don’t work if heat is pass one also but will work if it’s at one weird
*_CRITICAL STEP_* YOU MUST ALIGN IT ONE WAY OR NO WAY. Additional tip about this simple electric on off switch. That black plastic hat like cover is placed in the post stem,with the flared brim flush against the brake arm that extends about 3/4 of the brake arm. The open loop will press against the top if the black hat acting like a spacer so that the switch isnt up against the brake arm. The cotter pin went on using a small vice grip to push it in all the way down flush and to the loop the vice grip is pinching, snapping into place and assuring it doesn't easily back out. Thus you should not try to force the stem with that hat on through the loops of the switch! Its unecessary and besides its very hard to push that switch all the way down the stem and could tear the hat. When reinstalling the switch be sure the two loop metal end point of the switch points at the vac booster and the wire harness points away towards the driver. In this way the switch body length wise it is pointing the same direction as the the brake rod and parallel to it, that extends from the vac booster. You can see why this is a one way because of the flattened squared area of the brake arm that will push down against the floating rectangular metal plate in the middle of the switch, so that it makes contact when the brake is depressed as the spring compresses. That little open space that creates a T like top no wider than then a single spring loop metal that coils closes, making the floating inch long rectangular platform press against the metal case. Now, within that base at the other end of the spring coil is two thin metal electric contact tips. One is soldered on both ends. The other points away from the contact but soldered at its other end. So the brake compression forces that rectangle at the other end down and allows the electric circuit to close and power to flow into the brake lights. You cant see those metal contacts unless you fully expose them by prying open outwards the switch to release the spring and rectangle. Note if you took a finger length wire stripped just a 1/8 inch on each end, holding the unattached wire harness, and placed one end in one socket and the other in the other socket, + & -, any order, creating a bypass, the brake lights should come on. It doesn't matter if the switch harness mated comboo is mounted or not for the switch to work, by the way, if you are simply testing the switch by compressing the spring to make the light come on. Thus there is constant 12 V power to the harness. Whatsmore, the vac booster has no wired power to create the brake light circuit nor does pressing the brake directly effect the circuit. It's extremely elegant and simple such that a complex mind cant intuitively figure it out at once. Physically compressing that switch closes an electric loop. A slight inch long edge on the brake rod presses. This comment should be very helpful to this otherwise helpful video. The host told us to keep the position the same but clarity about what specific position to use and its relation to that squared metal molding would facilitate the job and explain the mechanism. Knowing the electric contact points is key if you want to know the mechanism and sand or file lightly the oxidized contacts. It's a bitch to carefully pull the whole switch apart to service all contacts but straight forward if you take pics after each part removed. Dont crack the plastic as you pry open the metal prongs holding it together. In my opinion, if you install it the ONE WAY, its should work . I dont think sanding the floating rectangle is necessary. There are plastic pin like retainer seats on each end of the spring. I misplaced the half of the cotter pin cover but leaving that cover off didn't effect lightning brakes, but kicking and breaking or disengaging that cotter pin could create an unpleasant fail.
Your suggestions seem expert and likely right-on, but are way over my head. I mostly don't know what your describing. In any case, I followed Dave's instructions and replaced the switch, and it was fairly effortless if I do say so myself, considering I'm not a mechanic and usually take a long time and cuss a lot. I didn't cuss once. But,....my truck is still stuck in Park, there's not change in the problem. At that point, I might have cussed. Did I do something wrong?
vi olve If you are referring to the “black box” It is the electric plug It only will go in one way. The little black box is getting replaced do to the internal switch wearing out
vi olve Nice yup trouble shooting is the best If the fuse blows again, you will need to figure out what is shorting out. Possibly trailer hitch plug or a accessory connected to the system
I can’t shift out of park or start my engine but my brake lights work. Everything was fine for a while, then I went into a store for a few minutes, came back, and everything is fkd
vi olve Because it’s called a few names Brake light switch Stop light switch Brake pedal switch This is a link to it. Motorcraft SW5219 Stop Light Switch Assembly www.amazon.com/dp/B0011DU8CA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eyn3EbXA4RM40
I replaced the break light switch still nothing... Fuses are working and fine. They aren't burnt. Now what. No break lights and the gear shifter is stuck in park
Check for voltage going to the brake light switch. Sounds like u are loosing power somewhere also if you didn’t just to make sure check for voltage at fuse with a test light or DVOM …
I would say check the headlight switch see if it shorted out, You should also check the grounds it almost sounds like the electric is backing up through the brake lights looking for a ground. Check to see if you have residual voltage at that brake like switch, you should have nothing. And a long shot just make sure the taillight bulbs are the correct ones. I know everyone is going to LED’s some are cheap China crap.
Ok did you ever get yours fixed mines get stuck when I switch the heat pass 1 but still won’t get heat but if the truck heat is at 1 my truck will shift
I have a short coming from that same spot that causes lights radio and shifter to not work. But its not that sensor its the plug that goes into that same sensor what i did temporarily was bypass it by connecting a wire to where it shorts straight to a fuze that has power when switched on. I dont want to leave it there long possibly making my situation worse so im trying to figure out if its the harness itself? Or just that single wire thats bad all together. As of now it drives fine but it has its moments where it shortens out.. 1999 ford f150 v6 by the way. If someone can fill me in on their input on the situation it would be much appreciated
romanamari10 The part I’m changing out in the video is the brake switch. If you are having fuse or fuses blowing and you changed the switch then it has to be something after the fuse. If everything works that usually goes out like the radio then I would guess that something is shorting out in the brake lights. I would start from the tail lights and work my way up to the cab. The trailer lights/brake won’t be it because ford uses a separate system just for the trailer. Those fuses are located under the hood. We had a truck that the wire harness got crushed between the cab and frame from the body mounts wearing out. Definitely check things that other people have done if it was dealing with the electric. If u have a jumper put fuse in between the power source and the spot u are feeding power Good luck If I think of anything else I will let u know
romanamari10 Just keep in mind that the F series are known for the windshield leaking just above the fuse box shorting out the fuse box creating either a draw on the battery killing the battery or making strange things happen on the truck like the radio turn on and off or blowing two or three things that are not connected at once Check to see if there is water stains near the fuse block And if the contacts are green or white.
From snow plowing, the soft rubber wore out. We made a form and used a liquid rubber to fix the steering wheel. Driver said it’s actually more comfortable than it looks
Jason Wilson What is the problem? No brake lights Child safety not working? Or both? You need to start troubleshooting, check fuses inside the cab and engine compartment, all fine, Get a test light or multi meter and ck for electric coming into this switch, If you have electric And it’s just child safety, you need to open the steering column and remove the electric solenoid that actuates the child safety lock. If it is just the brake lights you need to check the connector in the back of the truck. They tend to have the trailer plug connected to the body electric and it gets corroded.
@@DavidsHowtosReviews thanks for asking man I replace the entire solenoid body all brand new wiring harness new fluid new filter excetera as soon as I try to put the truck in drive it was locked in park it was not like that before I started . the mechanic that was helping me started forcing it out of well I think he may have broke something because it goes past reverse but the truck will only putter when I mash the throttle the truck stops
Jason Wilson Ok That doesn’t sound like anything to do with the steering column. Verify that the trans is ok by separating the column and trans by going to trans and disconnecting the shifter cable at trans. Have someone help you by stepping on the brake (while stick is running) and move the shifter lever once out of park into reverse, the lever should move some what easy you should not need a wrench. If it moves ok move 3clicks to Drive. Test drive truck if everything is fine then it could be the cable, plunger. Or whole linkage. If you have problems with the lever or truck doesn’t drive the transmission need to be looked at
Thank you for making this video. Helped me out tonight when I was stuck at the grocery store. 👊
David, Thank you for taking the time to show all where the problem is truly at. Your time and mine is very precious, can’t thank you enough.
Glade it’s helping!
David, thank you for the video. I replaced my switch in about 15 minutes including disconnecting and reconnecting the battery. I have a 5 gallon bucket with swivel lid and sitting on it, I was able to lean backwards over the floorboard and see everything. Make sure you note how the switch is on the rod before removing. My Motorcraft switch was $68. For those of you who like to fix and not replace, remove the switch. Using a jewelers size flat head screwdriver, pry outward on the tabs keeping the plastic halves of the switch together. More than likely, the #1 and #2 wiring contacts are carboned up from the making and breaking of the contacts. The contacts can be pried out, cleaned, filed flat like the points in older cars. Carefully file as to not take much metal away. The movement of the contact leaves is unknown and to much metal gone may mean that contact is not made. Reinstall in reverse order. I'm keeping my old switch although I do not know why. Just the old man in me. My Ford is a 2007 F150. Even if you file the contact points and reinstall, it is less than an hour fix. You decide what you want to do. I make no promises.
You mentioned disconnecting the battery. David didn't say to do that in the video. Is it necessary?
Some people think it is and some people think it is not.
Depending on model of truck you may have a lot of computer controlled accessories connected if the truck is a base model like this dump truck
Not necessary
Your video definitely got me on the right track. The issue for me on a 1997 F-250 was in the ignition. I pushed the pin and pulled the ignition out only to see a loose wire. It's a wire that comes along the outside of the ignition and goes into the shaft. I used duct tape to secure it in place, popped the ignition back in place, and everything works great after 15 times starting it up. I wouldn't have known where to start, or even where to go without your video. Thank you so much!
And this is why I make videos!
Glade it helped you 👍
I think i might have the same problem. Was your truck stuck in park?
Yup that’s one of the problems this will create
The switch to my break pedal disconnected. Thank you sir for the quick and easy walk through.
Zip tie it on or a little ultra black RTV
👍
Thank You David.......Wish You were Here To Fix My Wife's Truck, I am Ready To get her out of mind......The Gear Shift is stuck in Park & Her Tail lights aren't working.....My Brother in Law said it is a Fuse out....I Have checked all the fuses....So I guess I will do the steps you just suggested Tomorrow. Thanks Again!
Your awesome! Took a lot of stress off of me. After I got the part it was a 15 min fix! Thank you so much!
Thanks so much for this video. I took my dash off to replace an HVAC sensor got everything put back together then no brake lights, stuck in park, advanced track and down hill control fault… was scared shitless thinking I am about to spend a butt load of money to get it fix. Then I came across your video and gave it a try and boom everything works like it should!
Oh man!
Love to here I’m saving people time and money!
Awesome!
Wasted it time
Have a 1997 F450 with same issue, hopefully this will work. Thanks from British Columbia
Good video. My 2007 F-150 has refused to shift on me twice. Have to check this out in the daylight.
I tested my brakes, they do not come on, going to assume this is the issue. Thank you ahead of time for the video. I was about to rip the shifter column apart again. Last time I did was because of a thin plastic shim wore out...
Checked fuse, it’s blown. Make sure to check your fuses.
Razster
Good like hope it’s something easy
This happened to my truck I was about to tear into the transmission, so glad I seen this video before potentially screwed everything up.
Glad you didn’t
This just went out on my son’s truck. Now I know. Thank you!
Did Dave's instructions work for you? I replaced the switch in my 2002 F-150 yesterday; still stuck in park.
@@desmondjohnston4680 I fixed my kid's 2008 with these instructions. All good now.
If your still stuck in park check voltage to the child safety solenoid, located on top of column, if you have voltage
The solenoid needs replacement
@@fruitlessbeast Thank you!
This was such a life saver for me in a very hot day here in Arizona.. thank you soo much
Saul Aguilar
glad it helped you Stay safe n cool 😊
Loved the video, definitely what is going on with my truck, however, the part that you recommended wasn't co6rrect for my 97 F350. Thank you
Thanks for showing how to diagnose the problem instead ...it looks fairly easy
Seldom Seen
You can do it.
God bless you you saved my day
Dave, I followed your instructions, it all made sense, and I got the new switch installed. I was quite proud. Problem though,....my 2002 F-150 still still stuck in park. There's no change in the situation. Did I do something wrong?
I need to get it out of the park it's stuck in the park
@CheerfulHoldingCards-zo5wd
If you don’t hear a click when stepping on the brake pad then it’s ether the brake switch or the child safety lock solenoid located on top of the steering column towards the back
I had one that the wire broke off and one that burned out
Worst case go under the truck on trans drivers side u can “pull” the locking clip off the retainer and move the lever into any gear you need but please block the tires and have someone step on the brake pedal
Engine running
@DavidsHowtosReviews I have been puzzled after changing the starter on my 2001 Ford Excursion. Got it running but stuck in park. I will try this method today. My fix was turning key to on position, shifting into Neutral then starting the truck. Once started I can shift to Drive but that irritates me as a temporary fix because I know it ain't right.
Thanks got me going, just wiggled the switch 👍😎
Lol
Nice
Thanks for the short video
I got a ford sport trac n mine did this this morning n I just got to work n looked up the problem n that’s how I found this so ty hopefully this is all that’s wrong bc I really dnt wanna have get a diff vehicle 🙁
Thank you for the video. I was able to take apart the switch and clean the dirty contacts on it with a burnishing tool and I was good to go.
Fran Zafuto
Nice saving money is the best
thanks
Thanks for this. This is happening on my 2010 150.
My problem was a bad ground connection right under fuse box inside of truck , was rusted out badly when I went to take out bolt the whole metal wall came out
Yup that would do it
Glade you got it figured out, I’m sure it was a aggravating.
Thanks man
Thanks that helped me out
I've checked all of the fuses and they are all good. i have an 04' e-150 with the truck stuck in park. no turn signals or hazards, no back lights when pressed on brakes either. im completely lost.
I would definitely check the turn shift lever they tend to do this when they go bad
www.carparts.com/details/Ford/E-350_Super_Duty/Replacement/Turn_Signal_Switch/2008/REPF505801.html?TID=gglpla&origin=pla&&&gclid=CjwKCAjwm4ukBhAuEiwA0zQxk5Mw13C64F0siSkKzamrGCZCntElQ2VQ3gbKlZxBhdZmZu4ok-00fhoCFzkQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
What is unit under brake pedal called ? Can't see writing on box ... Thanks great video 🎉
Brake light switch.
Thanks unfortunately didn't fix issue 😢
I love you now bless ur soul
Same issue on my 2009 crown Victoria interceptor. Put a trailer harness on afterwards got stuck shifter and no brake lights. Going to change the switch tomorrow. thanks
Update the new brake switch fixed the issue
fixed my problem, thanks, one tip I might add, your brake pedal is spring loaded, when you remove the switch, the pedal has the potential of swinging into your face, hold on to the pedal when removing the switch. Otherwise a simple fix.
john gaffney
I’ve never has a problem but I will ck into it on the next one I do..
thanks for watching and am always welcoming suggestions and helpful tips..
always nice to learn from others.. 👍
I have an 09’ f150 and it’s stuck in park. I’m gonna try to do what you did and see if it works, thanks!
Nice it’s easy
Let me know how you make out!
I guess this could also be the problem with a Ford e250 as well huh? I'm having the exact same issue. I have to start the van from neutral, then put it in drive that way. No brake lights though.
Joshua Kaeble
Brake lights and shifter are usually two separate circuits
Sounds to me like the shifter selector which is located on the transmission may have a problem and may need to be swapped out you will see it as the cable connects to it on the transmission driver side
The only thing that the brake controls is the solenoid to take the shifter selector out of park
All this should be the same ford uses all the same mechanical parts, it’s just the body that changes
@@DavidsHowtosReviews h
Thanks! Fixed it!
Cool
Glade it worked!
My truck will do couple of things, mostly when my truck is cold, not always.
1. Remote start disables
2. I turn ignition press brake pedal, the a message on dash
"Hill start assist not available"
It wont shift out of park.
As the truck warms up it seems to go away.
Any idea?
Check the fuse block if on drivers side
You will need to check for water damage from leaking windshield
If on passenger side (right by foot) you will be checking for water damage from leaking clearance lights on the roof or windshield leaking
I have this exact issue in my 97 Chevy C1500.... That this stupid plastic thing cause such problem lol
Excellent
Thank you so much great information
leonardo moscoso
Hope helps save you money and time..
Question.....
I've been having an issue where I'm stuck in park. However, a couple good raps on the steering wheel (as if your beating on the wheel) will allow it to get out of park.
Is there a pin or something that can get stuck?
I've never noticed a problem with no brake lights. So thinking the switch is working normal, however something isn't disengaging when I put my foot on the brake.
At times, I can even move the tilt and it helps. I've got my methods to get it out of park when it's being difficult. Oddly, it's not always a problem.
IDEAS?!
Ok
Take the plastic off by the three screws on the bottom
In order to get the top plastic cover off u will need to turn the ignition to on but don’t start engine
You will see a hole under the ignition cylinder, with small Philips screw driver or pick push pin in and pull out cylinder.
Under plastic cover you will see the linkage a pin and the child safety solenoid ck for cracks or if pin is coming out
With ignition on step on brake make sure the child safety solenoid works check the wire to make sure it’s not loose.
Also under the dash at the end of the steering column you will find a plate make sure all the bolts are tight and that everything seems in ok
This bolts tend to loosen up over time.
@@DavidsHowtosReviews
Thank you sir...
Thus far, I have already checked the Ford F87Z-13480-AA switch, it's working fine and clicks EVERY SINGLE time I push on the brake. Never had a problem with brake lights working or not.
I believe it's the Shift Interlock Solenoid, and will be replacing it tomorrow. When I do that, I'll also check the bolts and other hardware for tightness.
Thanks again for your response(s).
That’s great hope u get that fixed
Glade I could help..
It did NOT fix the problem 100%... Still seems to "stick" every now and again
Thank you!
My issue is it's intermittent it unlocks for a short while then starts acting up again. If I pump the breaks it seems to start working, less and less often as time goes by. So I am guessing it is the switch on the steering column that is wearingj out?
johndi1962
Turn key in ignition and play with the switch on the pedal with your hand. Then push the pedal slowly u should hear the click from the column.
I have only had one solenoid go bad
Make sure the pin on the brake pedal arm is ok.
Look at the switch mounting hole also.
If all checks out ok then check the Electric solenoid on top of the column
Check the wires for the solenoid.
Would this be the same problem for a 2001 nissan frontier pickup?
Im really not sure, but its a possibility a lot of companies tend to use ideas from other companies.
trouble shoot it first then try itif it seems to be the problem.
good luck
Good afternoon David. I do have brake lights. Should I still change it? F250 2018
If you have brake lights and you can’t get it out of park then u may need to just replace the child safety park solenoid
Check the wire/wires going to it on the top of the steering column
Wat was ur fix my powerstroke has same issue
Hi I have a 2016 f350 stuck in park I have brake lights any other ideas? Thanks Dave
Top of the steering column is the safety solenoid it may have to be replaced.
Check for voltage at solenoid just make sure u are pressing the brakes when checking.
Thanks I’ll try that
Hey the shift cable was off the transmission cables bound up
@@davidingy2844 glad you got it.
Make sure u adjust it correctly so the transmission goes all the way into park.
Sure thanks for the help
I have no click but I have brake lights , stuck in park. But I’ve been using the manual overdrive. What could it be?
It maybe the child safety solenoid that’s bad inside the steering column
It pulls and pushes the locking pin
@@DavidsHowtosReviews where is that part? Is there another name for it.
@@michaelmontes9820
It will look something like this just make sure you get the correct one for your Yr make and model
Dorman 924-733 Shift Interlock Solenoid Compatible with Select Ford / Lincoln / Mercury Models a.co/d/iFQfGjD
I still have break lights but can’t shift out of park, trans fluid is fine so are fuses should I still try and replace this part?
The fluid would not do it .
If you have brake lights, then it more then likely the child safety solenoid needs to be replaced or the there is a problem with the linkage
What was the fix
@@stitchthisditchthat259 it ended up being the child safety sensor
@@sjoycethorpe electric solenoid on top of the column?
Can someone please help me my truck will not shift if my heater control is pass one but if it’s at one notch truck will shift oh also my light don’t work if heat is pass one also but will work if it’s at one weird
What if I have brake lights but won't come out of park
Listen for the click
No click then the child safety lock is prob no good little solenoid top of steering column
*_CRITICAL STEP_* YOU MUST ALIGN IT ONE WAY OR NO WAY.
Additional tip about this simple electric on off switch.
That black plastic hat like cover is placed in the post stem,with the flared brim flush against the brake arm that extends about 3/4 of the brake arm.
The open loop will press against the top if the black hat acting like a spacer so that the switch isnt up against the brake arm. The cotter pin went on using a small vice grip to push it in all the way down flush and to the loop the vice grip is pinching, snapping into place and assuring it doesn't easily back out. Thus you should not try to force the stem with that hat on through the loops of the switch! Its unecessary and besides its very hard to push that switch all the way down the stem and could tear the hat.
When reinstalling the switch be sure the two loop metal end point of the switch points at the vac booster and the wire harness points away towards the driver. In this way the switch body length wise it is pointing the same direction as the the brake rod and parallel to it, that extends from the vac booster.
You can see why this is a one way because of the flattened squared area of the brake arm that will push down against the floating rectangular metal plate in the middle of the switch, so that it makes contact when the brake is depressed as the spring compresses. That little open space that creates a T like top no wider than then a single spring loop metal that coils closes, making the floating inch long rectangular platform press against the metal case.
Now, within that base at the other end of the spring coil is two thin metal electric contact tips. One is soldered on both ends. The other points away from the contact but soldered at its other end. So the brake compression forces that rectangle at the other end down and allows the electric circuit to close and power to flow into the brake lights. You cant see those metal contacts unless you fully expose them by prying open outwards the switch to release the spring and rectangle.
Note if you took a finger length wire stripped just a 1/8 inch on each end, holding the unattached wire harness, and placed one end in one socket and the other in the other socket, + & -, any order, creating a bypass, the brake lights should come on.
It doesn't matter if the switch harness mated comboo is mounted or not for the switch to work, by the way, if you are simply testing the switch by compressing the spring to make the light come on.
Thus there is constant 12 V power to the harness. Whatsmore, the vac booster has no wired power to create the brake light circuit nor does pressing the brake directly effect the circuit.
It's extremely elegant and simple such that a complex mind cant intuitively figure it out at once. Physically compressing that switch closes an electric loop. A slight inch long edge on the brake rod presses.
This comment should be very helpful to this otherwise helpful video. The host told us to keep the position the same but clarity about what specific position to use and its relation to that squared metal molding would facilitate the job and explain the mechanism.
Knowing the electric contact points is key if you want to know the mechanism and sand or file lightly the oxidized contacts.
It's a bitch to carefully pull the whole switch apart to service all contacts but straight forward if you take pics after each part removed. Dont crack the plastic as you pry open the metal prongs holding it together.
In my opinion, if you install it the ONE WAY, its should work .
I dont think sanding the floating rectangle is necessary. There are plastic pin like retainer seats on each end of the spring.
I misplaced the half of the cotter pin cover but leaving that cover off didn't effect lightning brakes, but kicking and breaking or disengaging that cotter pin could create an unpleasant fail.
Your suggestions seem expert and likely right-on, but are way over my head. I mostly don't know what your describing. In any case, I followed Dave's instructions and replaced the switch, and it was fairly effortless if I do say so myself, considering I'm not a mechanic and usually take a long time and cuss a lot. I didn't cuss once. But,....my truck is still stuck in Park, there's not change in the problem. At that point, I might have cussed. Did I do something wrong?
@@desmondjohnston4680 clutch safety switch or automatic park version?
Had a similar problem couldn’t get it out of park. 10 amp fuse. Number 34 on the diagram. Check your fuses first! They’re super cheap.
Big O
Omg anyone who has added electric accessories have done this at least once! Lol
Glade u figured it out..
Was your brake lights out as well ?
Yes
Also what exactly is getting pulled out to be REPLACED?
vi olve
If you are referring to the “black box”
It is the electric plug
It only will go in one way.
The little black box is getting replaced do to the internal switch wearing out
Okay cool overall it was a fuse in my case, thanks
vi olve
Nice yup trouble shooting is the best
If the fuse blows again, you will need to figure out what is shorting out.
Possibly trailer hitch plug or a accessory connected to the system
BINGO
I can’t shift out of park or start my engine but my brake lights work. Everything was fine for a while, then I went into a store for a few minutes, came back, and everything is fkd
That really sounds like the chip in the key.
Try another key
What's the exact name to the black part being replaced please. Thanks
vi olve
Because it’s called a few names
Brake light switch
Stop light switch
Brake pedal switch
This is a link to it.
Motorcraft SW5219 Stop Light Switch Assembly www.amazon.com/dp/B0011DU8CA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eyn3EbXA4RM40
I replaced the break light switch still nothing... Fuses are working and fine. They aren't burnt. Now what. No break lights and the gear shifter is stuck in park
Check for voltage going to the brake light switch.
Sounds like u are loosing power somewhere also if you didn’t just to make sure check for voltage at fuse with a test light or DVOM …
Mine only does this when the lights come on so I have to shut the lights off to get it to go in gear
I would say check the headlight switch see if it shorted out,
You should also check the grounds it almost sounds like the electric is backing up through the brake lights looking for a ground.
Check to see if you have residual voltage at that brake like switch, you should have nothing.
And a long shot just make sure the taillight bulbs are the correct ones.
I know everyone is going to LED’s some are cheap China crap.
Ok did you ever get yours fixed mines get stuck when I switch the heat pass 1 but still won’t get heat but if the truck heat is at 1 my truck will shift
I BOUGHT THAT PART AND IT DIDN'T WORK.This is the part that was no good.FORD 7L3Z3Z719A Auto Trans Shift Solenoid/Interlock Actuator
What year vehicle did u have issue on
My 2012 powerstroke is stuck in park but have brake lights
What is this part called
Brake light switch
shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/motorcraft-original-equipment-o.e.-switch-assembly-stop-light-sw-5219/11889412-P
I smack mine with a metal bar and that seems to help. It's about time to change it though.
It’s all plastic and aluminum
Something will break eventually
2009 mercury grand marquis, won't shift out of gear, brake lights don't work....this is gonna be my fix.
Rain Man
Hey give it a shot !
Hope it works for u!
I have a short coming from that same spot that causes lights radio and shifter to not work. But its not that sensor its the plug that goes into that same sensor what i did temporarily was bypass it by connecting a wire to where it shorts straight to a fuze that has power when switched on. I dont want to leave it there long possibly making my situation worse so im trying to figure out if its the harness itself? Or just that single wire thats bad all together. As of now it drives fine but it has its moments where it shortens out.. 1999 ford f150 v6 by the way. If someone can fill me in on their input on the situation it would be much appreciated
romanamari10
The part I’m changing out in the video is the brake switch.
If you are having fuse or fuses blowing and you changed the switch then it has to be something after the fuse.
If everything works that usually goes out like the radio then I would guess that something is shorting out in the brake lights.
I would start from the tail lights and work my way up to the cab.
The trailer lights/brake won’t be it because ford uses a separate system just for the trailer.
Those fuses are located under the hood.
We had a truck that the wire harness got crushed between the cab and frame from the body mounts wearing out.
Definitely check things that other people have done if it was dealing with the electric.
If u have a jumper put fuse in between the power source and the spot u are feeding power
Good luck
If I think of anything else I will let u know
@@DavidsHowtosReviews my guess its a short behind the fusebox . I would have to get into it and check it out. Thank you
romanamari10
Just keep in mind that the F series are known for the windshield leaking just above the fuse box shorting out the fuse box creating either a draw on the battery killing the battery or making strange things happen on the truck like the radio turn on and off or blowing two or three things that are not connected at once
Check to see if there is water stains near the fuse block
And if the contacts are green or white.
What is the name of the unit? Need to get it for my f150
Brake light switch
They can bring it up on the computer with the number that I show in the video
@@DavidsHowtosReviews thanks, I found it already 👍
What the unit call
What's wrong with that steering wheel? Looks beat up,
From snow plowing, the soft rubber wore out. We made a form and used a liquid rubber to fix the steering wheel.
Driver said it’s actually more comfortable than it looks
This didn't good my 2007 King ranch
This didn't fix mine I need help
Jason Wilson
What is the problem?
No brake lights
Child safety not working?
Or both?
You need to start troubleshooting, check fuses inside the cab and engine compartment, all fine,
Get a test light or multi meter and ck for electric coming into this switch, If you have electric
And it’s just child safety, you need to open the steering column and remove the electric solenoid that actuates the child safety lock.
If it is just the brake lights you need to check the connector in the back of the truck.
They tend to have the trailer plug connected to the body electric and it gets corroded.
@@DavidsHowtosReviews thanks for asking man I replace the entire solenoid body all brand new wiring harness new fluid new filter excetera as soon as I try to put the truck in drive it was locked in park it was not like that before I started . the mechanic that was helping me started forcing it out of well I think he may have broke something because it goes past reverse but the truck will only putter when I mash the throttle the truck stops
Jason Wilson
Ok
That doesn’t sound like anything to do with the steering column.
Verify that the trans is ok by separating the column and trans by going to trans and disconnecting the shifter cable at trans. Have someone help you by stepping on the brake (while stick is running) and move the shifter lever once out of park into reverse, the lever should move some what easy you should not need a wrench.
If it moves ok move 3clicks to Drive.
Test drive truck if everything is fine then it could be the cable, plunger. Or whole linkage. If you have problems with the lever or truck doesn’t drive the transmission need to be looked at
@@DavidsHowtosReviews thanks I'll jump on it after lunch
Jason Wilson
Let me know what happens if you can.
Good luck