I don't get why you don't have millions of followers, you're knowledge and communication is just "ON POINT". I'm always excited when I get to learn stuff from you. Please keep being awesome.
Well Richard, this was the video that put it all together. I knew there had to be one... I have been wondering how to light the cemetary marble figurine headstones, while getting a star trail... the way you put this together and said you do your star trail images first and then light the foreground separately, and even at the end just cinched the deal. So glad I'm still watching these. I did finally start a little notebook for myself too.... appreciate all your hard work for these 5+ years, that I'm enjoying now!
Another excellent video. If anyone is wanting to try, or to improve, their nightscape images, then Richard's channel is the only one you will ever need. Superbly inspirational.
whenever I free from the my work (Writing) traveling, meetings, etc. I must see what you have done something new, and every time, I see your video, it is fun, learning and discovering. and I never forget to click on the like button. never stop discovering.... keep healthy and take care.
Revisited this video after you pointed it to me on light painting. Wow, indeed a lot of knowledge and experience goes into this art of light painting. Well done and documented.
You're an inspiration and I love your work. I've just discovered astrophotography, light trailing, and light painting. It's all a little overwhelming and im also working with an entry level camera so Ibhave that added challenge too. But I just love watching your videos, your tips, and tricks. So thank you
Your tutorials are top notch. So much thought & planning goes into not only creating these beautiful images but teaching it the way you do is equally as impressive! P.s the way you bounced the light off the tank for the timelapse was awesome😀
Super video Richard .As for dumb things, i remember many many years ago on a Christmas day i had the task of shooting all the family photos for the day. That night went to take the film out and realized i had forgotten to put the film in. The family thought it was funny and like to remind me of it to this day.
Hi Richard... I revisited this video with the hope of learning how you deal with depth of field in your foreground. I didn't find anything. I have been wondering if you change focus for each of your foreground lighted images so that trees 20m away are just as sharp as the grasses or main subject 5m away. John
Hey John. Depth of field and focusing depends on what focal length you're using. I shoot most often with a 20mm lens. If I'm focused to infinity and shoot the stars then want to light my foreground I'll first establish the distance to that foreground subject. I have mentioned this in many videos but when you stop the lens aperture down you increase the depth of field. So I know by using a depth of field scale that my 20mm lens at f2.8 has an infinity focus point from about 6mtrs onward. If I stop the kkenbs down to f5 i can stretch that focal range to about 4mtrs or so. This means that I dont have to re focus at all. To cut a long story short if your using a wide angle lens it's a lot more forgiving regarding focus especially if the foreground isn't too close to the camera, and even more so if you stop down the aperture for your foreground shots.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Thank you so much, Richard. You are amazing in that you not only produce wonderful videos, but you take the time and effort to respond to a viewer 20,000km away with a lengthy message. My hats off to you, mate.
Only just came across your channel and have started watching the first few, have to say they are excellent! Wanted to ask, are you lucky enough not to suffer from dew problems over there? here in England it can be a real pain in the butt for sure, results in more often than not having to use a dew band for the lens, ok not a major problem, but just another little thing to make sure is set right and that the band doesn't move the focus ring. Anyways, thanks for the time, effort and knowledge you put into making these vids, hopefully I'll e able to try out some of your techniques some time soon'ish. Regards, Andy
I recently found your videos, and subscribe immediately. It's amazing the images that you create and the easy and friendly way to explain everything. Thanks! PD : you are one of few guys here with a very low thumbs down... Hahaha!
I'm am amateur, and I love to capture the stars at night. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, sir. I use a Canon 6D Mark ii with a Canon EF 16-35 1:4 L IS USM. The fastest shutter speed available is 1/4000. I want to upgrade. Not only for the sake of having 1/8000 shutter speed, but also a bigger sensor, newer processor, OVF, mirrorless...etc. Yes, I have my eye on the EOS R. Would the extra 1/4000 shutter speed benefit me? What's your take on the EOS R for astrophotography & day time landscape. In advance, I thank you, sir.
Thanks for watching Russ. Just to clarify, the sensor in the EOS-R is the same size as your 6Dmk2. The EOS-R is a very capable camera for pretty much everything you'd want to do with it. I'd highly recommend it for nightscape photography. In my personal experience the faster shutter speed isn't a deal breaker at all. The only real world place where you'll be looking for 1/8000 sec is fast action sport etc on a sunny day.
Hi firstly I would like to thank you for the advice and great videos I'm a big fan. I have a burning question. I use a D800 which is a great camera and i was wondering if the Nikon "Long exposure NR" is the same as using a Dark Frame? And is it useful for night scape photography? Thanks in advance, looking forward to seeing more of your videos. Ralph C
Sorry for late response to your question Ralph. Yes the inbuilt long exposure noise reduction is pretty much the same as shooting a dark frame. I never use the inbuilt LENR but I will often shoot multiple images for stacking as this reduces noise remarkably well. Added to this I will sometimes shoot some dark frames. Hope that helps.
I have one such general purpose LED light, but it emits a silver/white light. From what it looks like, you have taped am orange-ish sheet over the LED-Lenser P7. Will just taping an orange transperent plastic sheet over any LED flash light suffice?
@@nightscapeimages.richard ... thanks for taking the time and effort to read and respond to my query with the link to the color temperature gel. This is very much appreciated.
Great video and great information. Speaking of bloopers, I had similar experience. I suspect a critter, possibly a coyote or bobcat interfered with my time lapse. Using 2 brown plastic bags for a diffuser, I set up a low power LED lamp for time lapse. And like you, I went off in the distance to get some night panoramas. When I returned to gather the LED and camera, the LED lamp was gone. I know it was not a human as the location was remote, and they would have taken the camera. When I processed the time lapse, there were shadows moving around the light. Anyway, thank you for the information, and keep up the great videos on night photography.
Thank you for watching. Yes I do use what is known as a "CTO (colour temperature orange) gel". The particular one I use is a 1/2 cto gel part number: 205. I use this to balance out the colour of the foreground in relation to the background when I have my in camera white balance adjusted down to about 3500k. Hope that helps.
Thanks for watching Tony. Yes they are long shutter speeds but there isn't much ambient lighting. I add the lighting myself to whatever level is required.
Have you ever used a flash and or modeling light from your strobe for the foreground because I was thinking about trying that could and would it work ?
I’ll definitely be trying this because I just got a monolight and I was wanting to use it for Astrophotography to light up my foreground without having to bring so much back in post and that gives me such excitement to play with stars more and more thank you so so much for your information 🙏🏽🙏🏽
@@nightscapeimages.richard thank you sir. One last question. If u set ur shutter speed to 20sec, does light painting also 20 sec? Or it depends on how much light do u want in the picture?
@@PuntokUno1014 Yes that's correct. You really only need the exposure to be as long as the light painting .. but sometimes it's hard to judge. It's more art than science.
Hi Burkhold. I've never seen a snake in all of my travels. I'm usually spending time under the stars in the Australian winter so they are in hibernation.
Hi sir very beautiful like always.Sir as an student i want to ask when you shoot an object with the milky way core sir where do you focus is it on a star or on the object in the foreground and do you zoom in on the star or the object from the live view or using the lens zoom.And Sir should that star be manually locked or is it autofocus.Cheers Sir i really want to learn everything from you plz accept me as an student and teach me.Buddha bless you and your sweet family always🙂❤❤❤
Thanks so much for watching. When shooting the milky way I will always focus on the stars at infinity by zooming in on the live view screen, then switching to manual focus. I will never use auto focus for this. Then if I am shooting closer foreground objects I will re-focus on that subject. While doing this I am always very careful not to move the camera or tripod position.
Hello sir really your beautiful reply helps me learning a lot,I have an dream to become a successful nightscape photographer like you,you bring life and show the true beauty of night and its serenity.Sir your an mentor,teacher and you truly inspired me to become a good photographer.Sir someday I would really love to attend your workshop and learn and keep learning from you more and more Sir.Thank you thank you so very much always your an great inspiration.Cheers Buddha bless you and your sweet family always🙂❤❤❤❤
@Nightscape Images Sir Richard Tatti thank you thank you sir,you help me in learning and following my passion.Your a Guru Sir,wish to meet you in person and take your courses more to learn amd improve Sir.Cheers Buddha bless you and your sweet family always dear Guruji🙂❤❤❤
Hey Tony, the timelapse near the end of this video used an LED panel on all the time to light the scene. That's usually what I do with timelapse videos.
watching your channels with much interest great series, can I ask how do you know when to stop the exposures when using the light from your torch? do you have to use a timer or do you listen out for the shutter closing?
Hi Tech Savie, thanks for commenting. Typically I only light the scene for a much smaller duration than the actual shutter duration. It's really easy to overexpose when light painting at high iso's so you don't need much light. Also the distance of light to subject makes a difference as well.
Hey Franky. I use a slider made by a guy in Melbourne. It is a simple variable speed constant moving type. It does not control any operations of the camera. I use a simple intervalometer to control the shutter intervals etc. psetimelapseslider.com/
So I've been doing night pictures for a little over a year now, one thing I can't figure out is how to get rid of light streaks on the paint of darker vehicles. Using just a normal flashlight. Any lighting tips you could give me?
Light reflections are difficult to avoid... especially when the surface is damp. What I'd suggest is making sure the angle of the flashlight isn't reflecting straight into the camera. Jyst mov e around and see the different results.
I don't get why you don't have millions of followers, you're knowledge and communication is just "ON POINT". I'm always excited when I get to learn stuff from you. Please keep being awesome.
You're so very kind Kendra, I'll keep doing my best.
Well Richard, this was the video that put it all together. I knew there had to be one... I have been wondering how to light the cemetary marble figurine headstones, while getting a star trail... the way you put this together and said you do your star trail images first and then light the foreground separately, and even at the end just cinched the deal. So glad I'm still watching these. I did finally start a little notebook for myself too.... appreciate all your hard work for these 5+ years, that I'm enjoying now!
Once again I really appreciate you taking the time to check out my videos Jessica. Always happy to help.
Another excellent video. If anyone is wanting to try, or to improve, their nightscape images, then Richard's channel is the only one you will ever need. Superbly inspirational.
Thanks heaps Simon
It was great to come back to this old one again. Always something new to learn.
Thanks again for watching
whenever I free from the my work (Writing) traveling, meetings, etc. I must see what you have done something new, and every time, I see your video, it is fun, learning and discovering. and I never forget to click on the like button.
never stop discovering.... keep healthy and take care.
Really appreciate your comments Faris, thanks for watching
Revisited this video after you pointed it to me on light painting. Wow, indeed a lot of knowledge and experience goes into this art of light painting. Well done and documented.
Thanks again for watching and commenting Raymond
You're an inspiration and I love your work. I've just discovered astrophotography, light trailing, and light painting. It's all a little overwhelming and im also working with an entry level camera so Ibhave that added challenge too. But I just love watching your videos, your tips, and tricks. So thank you
Really appreciate your kind words Dale, please keep in touch
Your tutorials are top notch. So much thought & planning goes into not only creating these beautiful images but teaching it the way you do is equally as impressive! P.s the way you bounced the light off the tank for the timelapse was awesome😀
Thanks a lot Peter. It's really difficult from a technical viewpoint to record these night videos so a lot of planning has to go into them.
You are gold. Best youtube teacher.
You are very kind Franky ... much appreciated.
Time Lapse is a big favorite of mine and has been for years, bloody good stuff Mate
Thanks heaps Rick really appreciate that
Richard you are one of my favourite light painters. Thanks again for some great tips.
That's a lovely comment NotByIntent ... really appreciate you following my work.
Hi Richard thanks for sharing your deep knowledge..you bring the nightscape to a epic level..well done..much appreciated
Zarcos Palma Thank you so much Zarcos.
I love your videos! Very knowledge worthy...I am grateful! Thank you!
Thanks so much bassplayer60 I'm so glad you like the videos. Lots more to come soon.
Super video Richard .As for dumb things, i remember many many years ago on a Christmas day i had the task of shooting all the family photos for the day. That night went to take the film out and realized i had forgotten to put the film in. The family thought it was funny and like to remind me of it to this day.
I think we've all done that Sunnysideup ...!!! Thanks for watching.
Great video I found this very helpful. You explain everything really well and make it easy for a beginner to understand.
Thank you! Subscribed
Thanks heaps for watching Sean. I have plenty more videos you may enjoy as well.
Hi Richard...
I revisited this video with the hope of learning how you deal with depth of field in your foreground. I didn't find anything. I have been wondering if you change focus for each of your foreground lighted images so that trees 20m away are just as sharp as the grasses or main subject 5m away.
John
Hey John. Depth of field and focusing depends on what focal length you're using. I shoot most often with a 20mm lens. If I'm focused to infinity and shoot the stars then want to light my foreground I'll first establish the distance to that foreground subject. I have mentioned this in many videos but when you stop the lens aperture down you increase the depth of field. So I know by using a depth of field scale that my 20mm lens at f2.8 has an infinity focus point from about 6mtrs onward. If I stop the kkenbs down to f5 i can stretch that focal range to about 4mtrs or so. This means that I dont have to re focus at all. To cut a long story short if your using a wide angle lens it's a lot more forgiving regarding focus especially if the foreground isn't too close to the camera, and even more so if you stop down the aperture for your foreground shots.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Thank you so much, Richard. You are amazing in that you not only produce wonderful videos, but you take the time and effort to respond to a viewer 20,000km away with a lengthy message. My hats off to you, mate.
@@jmfoty4280 Just common courtesy John
Thanks, really nice work !
I'm pleased you liked it Atanas. Thanks for watching.
Only just came across your channel and have started watching the first few, have to say they are excellent! Wanted to ask, are you lucky enough not to suffer from dew problems over there? here in England it can be a real pain in the butt for sure, results in more often than not having to use a dew band for the lens, ok not a major problem, but just another little thing to make sure is set right and that the band doesn't move the focus ring. Anyways, thanks for the time, effort and knowledge you put into making these vids, hopefully I'll e able to try out some of your techniques some time soon'ish. Regards, Andy
Thanks so much for watching Andy, really appreciate it. Yes we do have dew issues and I use a lens warmer all the time.
I recently found your videos, and subscribe immediately. It's amazing the images that you create and the easy and friendly way to explain everything. Thanks! PD : you are one of few guys here with a very low thumbs down... Hahaha!
Thank you very much Reynaldo, appreciate you watching
Great video, but would be nice if you had yours lighting equipment list and link to Amazon.
Thanks a lot for watching. I do have a list of the gear I use but no Amazon links at present.
I'm am amateur, and I love to capture the stars at night. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, sir. I use a Canon 6D Mark ii with a Canon EF 16-35 1:4 L IS USM. The fastest shutter speed available is 1/4000. I want to upgrade. Not only for the sake of having 1/8000 shutter speed, but also a bigger sensor, newer processor, OVF, mirrorless...etc. Yes, I have my eye on the EOS R. Would the extra 1/4000 shutter speed benefit me? What's your take on the EOS R for astrophotography & day time landscape. In advance, I thank you, sir.
Thanks for watching Russ. Just to clarify, the sensor in the EOS-R is the same size as your 6Dmk2. The EOS-R is a very capable camera for pretty much everything you'd want to do with it. I'd highly recommend it for nightscape photography. In my personal experience the faster shutter speed isn't a deal breaker at all. The only real world place where you'll be looking for 1/8000 sec is fast action sport etc on a sunny day.
Hi firstly I would like to thank you for the advice and great videos I'm a big fan. I have a burning question. I use a D800 which is a great camera and i was wondering if the Nikon "Long exposure NR" is the same as using a Dark Frame? And is it useful for night scape photography? Thanks in advance, looking forward to seeing more of your videos.
Ralph C
Sorry for late response to your question Ralph. Yes the inbuilt long exposure noise reduction is pretty much the same as shooting a dark frame. I never use the inbuilt LENR but I will often shoot multiple images for stacking as this reduces noise remarkably well. Added to this I will sometimes shoot some dark frames. Hope that helps.
G'day Richard. You look young in this one mate :). Thanks for what you do.
Haha, yeah I've aged a bit over the past few years. It's probably all that mountain climbing ..!!! Thanks for looking mate.
Quality video Richard! Many thanks for sharing ;)
Thanks so much for watching Rexx. Really appreciate your support.
I have one such general purpose LED light, but it emits a silver/white light. From what it looks like, you have taped am orange-ish sheet over the LED-Lenser P7. Will just taping an orange transperent plastic sheet over any LED flash light suffice?
No you need a proper color temperature gel. See here: www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/44201-REG/Rosco_RS340811_3408_Filter_RoscoSun.html
@@nightscapeimages.richard ... thanks for taking the time and effort to read and respond to my query with the link to the color temperature gel. This is very much appreciated.
Great video and great information. Speaking of bloopers, I had similar experience. I suspect a critter, possibly a coyote or bobcat interfered with my time lapse. Using 2 brown plastic bags for a diffuser, I set up a low power LED lamp for time lapse. And like you, I went off in the distance to get some night panoramas. When I returned to gather the LED and camera, the LED lamp was gone. I know it was not a human as the location was remote, and they would have taken the camera. When I processed the time lapse, there were shadows moving around the light. Anyway, thank you for the information, and keep up the great videos on night photography.
Thanks for your comments ... and the great story ...!!!
Great videos! in your flashlight I see kind of an orange "filter" what is it? thanks!
Thank you for watching. Yes I do use what is known as a "CTO (colour temperature orange) gel". The particular one I use is a 1/2 cto gel part number: 205. I use this to balance out the colour of the foreground in relation to the background when I have my in camera white balance adjusted down to about 3500k. Hope that helps.
thanks Richard...very interesting and I learnt a lot...
I'm so glad you liked it ausbettsee47
Great Video!
Thanks for watching Brandon
So, I'm assuming your using a long shutter speed to capture the stars. How is that long shutter speed not blowing out the ambient lighting?
Thanks for watching Tony. Yes they are long shutter speeds but there isn't much ambient lighting. I add the lighting myself to whatever level is required.
Tony the subject sits in the dark most of the exposure.
Have you ever used a flash and or modeling light from your strobe for the foreground because I was thinking about trying that could and would it work ?
Thanks for watching James. Yes that can certainly work. Check out this video: ruclips.net/video/CNOHxtoUyJE/видео.html
I’ll definitely be trying this because I just got a monolight and I was wanting to use it for Astrophotography to light up my foreground without having to bring so much back in post and that gives me such excitement to play with stars more and more thank you so so much for your information 🙏🏽🙏🏽
@@fruhfruh429 Any time James
Sir, do you press the shutter first? then u do the light painting using a torch? Do u use remote for the shutter? Thank you.
Yes I do use a remote to trigger the camera and I do press the shutter before I start light painting.
@@nightscapeimages.richard thank you sir. One last question. If u set ur shutter speed to 20sec, does light painting also 20 sec? Or it depends on how much light do u want in the picture?
@@PuntokUno1014 Yes that's correct. You really only need the exposure to be as long as the light painting .. but sometimes it's hard to judge. It's more art than science.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Its trial and error also. Hehe thank yuu so much sir. Ill apply this method on my night photography.
Yes absolutely
I have always wondered what goes on beyond the black stump; know I know.
How often do you meet snykes?
Hi Burkhold. I've never seen a snake in all of my travels. I'm usually spending time under the stars in the Australian winter so they are in hibernation.
Hi sir very beautiful like always.Sir as an student i want to ask when you shoot an object with the milky way core sir where do you focus is it on a star or on the object in the foreground and do you zoom in on the star or the object from the live view or using the lens zoom.And Sir should that star be manually locked or is it autofocus.Cheers Sir i really want to learn everything from you plz accept me as an student and teach me.Buddha bless you and your sweet family always🙂❤❤❤
Thanks so much for watching. When shooting the milky way I will always focus on the stars at infinity by zooming in on the live view screen, then switching to manual focus. I will never use auto focus for this. Then if I am shooting closer foreground objects I will re-focus on that subject. While doing this I am always very careful not to move the camera or tripod position.
Hello sir really your beautiful reply helps me learning a lot,I have an dream to become a successful nightscape photographer like you,you bring life and show the true beauty of night and its serenity.Sir your an mentor,teacher and you truly inspired me to become a good photographer.Sir someday I would really love to attend your workshop and learn and keep learning from you more and more Sir.Thank you thank you so very much always your an great inspiration.Cheers Buddha bless you and your sweet family always🙂❤❤❤❤
@@EnlightenedMusings Thanks again my friend.
@Nightscape Images Sir Richard Tatti thank you thank you sir,you help me in learning and following my passion.Your a Guru Sir,wish to meet you in person and take your courses more to learn amd improve Sir.Cheers Buddha bless you and your sweet family always dear Guruji🙂❤❤❤
U made d whole thing look so easy
Gonna try it out as soon as i can
Kip it up
Thanks Rishikesh. I can assure you I have done a lot of practice with lighting.
How would this work for shooting timelapse?
Hey Tony, the timelapse near the end of this video used an LED panel on all the time to light the scene. That's usually what I do with timelapse videos.
watching your channels with much interest great series, can I ask how do you know when to stop the exposures when using the light from your torch? do you have to use a timer or do you listen out for the shutter closing?
Hi Tech Savie, thanks for commenting. Typically I only light the scene for a much smaller duration than the actual shutter duration. It's really easy to overexpose when light painting at high iso's so you don't need much light. Also the distance of light to subject makes a difference as well.
brilliant thanks for your feedback and the superb work your doing keeping us all motivated ..
No problem at all Tech Savie
hi Guys. is there a link where i can download sequator for mac? unfortunately I don't speak english
Hey Thomas. Sequator is windows only. For mac you need Starry Landscape Stacker. But its not free.
very inspirational !.. I love shooting at night
Thank you ... really appreciate your comment.
what brand of slider do you use and is it control the shutter for longer exposures at night?
Hey Franky. I use a slider made by a guy in Melbourne. It is a simple variable speed constant moving type. It does not control any operations of the camera. I use a simple intervalometer to control the shutter intervals etc. psetimelapseslider.com/
Nightscape Images okey cool. Thnkz for the answer))
No worries at all.
So I've been doing night pictures for a little over a year now, one thing I can't figure out is how to get rid of light streaks on the paint of darker vehicles. Using just a normal flashlight. Any lighting tips you could give me?
Light reflections are difficult to avoid... especially when the surface is damp. What I'd suggest is making sure the angle of the flashlight isn't reflecting straight into the camera. Jyst mov e around and see the different results.
👍✅📸
Nice
Thanks Nayan really appreciate the comment
Oops.. looks like I missed this one. Than you very much. Ignore my last question.
No problem Ciaran. I've answered the other question anyway. Glad you like the videos, really appreciate the comments.