The dimension of sound you have added to your car is what makes the hair on my arm stand up. I, quite frankly, wouldn't care if it didn't make any extra horsepower, the symphony of sound it cranks out is worth the price of admission. Great work, Sir!!
@@MrSandhu11 well I do considering my car a tune alone got me 12hp intake and throttlebody was another 27hp full exaughst setup was another 18 HP and then I did 410 gears a intake manifold and pulleys the car fbo makes 380 to the wheel boost is next already ordered my eagle forged Pistons and rods and already have my new fuel pump and I'd 1000s just waiting on my back ordered hellion kit them I'll be around 800whp
Yes, at about 2:29 they talk about this. Basically, they don't let the chain move off of the sprocket, then install the new cam the same way the old one came out. The shop that did this install had done it many times before, so they really had the procedure down as simple as possible. Thanks for watching!
It depends a bit on your application, but they retail for $200 - $300. You can check out compcams.com for exact specs. Thanks so much, glad you liked the video!
Thumbs up for showing the install on this video, getting ready to do cams myself and this was the method I wanted to use (no spring compressor), thanks!!!
+Betty Issue I had was I didn't pay enough attention to how many lobes were engaging valves when I started to take the cams out. There is a position you can put the engine in where most of the lobes aren't engaging, it will be a slightly different position for both sides but that's where you will want it when you do this method. If it's not in that position it makes it really difficult to get the cams back in. You also have to pay attention to how the cam is centered in the bearings and over the followers, if it isn't you won't be able to get the front cam cap back on (that's where the thrust bearing is)
If you check with a few local auto parts stores in your area you should be able to find one. The exact wedge you will need may depend on your application. Hope this helps.
@planefloat Unfortunately there are too many variables (engine combination, weather, testing standards) that effect emissions testing. Therefore we are unable to certify that any aftermarket cam will pass your local emissions testing.
@planefloat Each cam is designed for a specific reason, it's hard to make a cam that's going to produce monster power that's not going to affect fuel mileage in some way or form. As for your question with drivability, there are many cars using these cams that are daily driven. Give our CAM HELP tech staff a call (1-8000-999-0853) or email if you have specific questions related to your application - they'll be glad to get you pointed in the right direction. Thanks for your interest in COMP Cams.
Yes, we do! You can check out options on the COMP Cams website, or feel free to call 1.800.999.0853 and one of our techs will be glad to help you out. Thanks for your interest.
You are right about the need for headers and intake changes. Plus, the 11 horse is at full throttle and rpm. I'm guessing there is an improvement all through the rpm range, which is actually what you will feel. It's not like you only get 11 on top and business as usual at every other rpm level. But...the automatic (yuk) does not effect horsepower. If you pull the slush box and put in a 6 speed...do you think the power goes up? No. The base test was with the same car/transmission!
Oh, for sure. For the street especially, I think automatics make the car a lot less versatile. For a drag race only car, a built automatic can be the key to consistency, but I consider a stick to be substantially more fun. You can tailor your "stall speed" with your clutch leg. Takes experience, though, and skill, and that scares many away.
I'll be going with the FRRP cams and heads myself and later an Edlebrock charger ! The FRRP parts have been tested specifically for the Mustang GT 4.6L, 3V motors so you will get the most bang for the buck.
I am in the process of swapping to the mutha thumpa cam in my 08 gt, according to the ford racing instructions on getting the motor to tdc my #5 exhaust lobes should be coming off their stroke, but they're not when the timing mark is at the said "1o'clock" position
I know transmissions dont add or remove hp, but it does affect how much u plant to the wheels. an auto will have a little more driveline loss than a manual from the factory.
What would be a comparable camshaft set up for a 4.6l 4v (the DOHC engines)? It’s for a Marauder so it’s got a higher stall torque converter and a better gear low end gear ratio over that of a typical mustang GT.
numbers would be higher if there was a tune also , 12.9/13.0 can be leaned, probably net another 10 whp , prior to exhaust etc too id think . not to shabby
I realize the huge expense getting a C.A.R.B. approval. I'm in FL and tailpipe emissions inspection have been discontinued for years. Are there any downsides to the conversion i.e. decreased drivability, fuel mileage, cat converter overheating?
just go with a ford numbered cam man... like b303, e303, f303 there are plenty of videos on youtube of them, i personally suggest a b303 or e303 with 1.7 roller rockers they wont dissapoint... if you want to go bigger and still reliable then get some gt40 heads and almost any aftermarket intake to go with the cam youd be happy with it
is there a link to the full video of this install? not just bits and pieces. gonna do this myself this weekend and just want something to go by so i can make sure i keep the engine in time.
Hi Oscar, the Thumpr cams are designed to have a great idle sound. Your best option though is to contact our CAM HELP line at 1.800.999.0853, the techs will have a few questions about your engine and overall setup and will then be able to help you pick out the best cam for your 350. Thank you.
Question, besides not removing the cam followers it looked like mechanic Paul Connor didn't have to set the engine to TDC when swapping the cams for each side? If he is just matching the key way on the end of the cam that saves even more time with less steps.
Not sure if you still have this account since it’s been almost a decade you commented but I’m wanting to do cams on my 3v and just wanted to clarify that if I don’t remove those followers I could skip the step of setting the engine in tdc?
@@Axel.3v Damm it's so long ago I don't remember if I didn't set to TDC the last time I swapped cams in it. Which was the sixth time I've done a 3V cam swap - so I was down to 4 hours for the whole job. I still have the car and 4 different cams for it. These cars are so old now that I would take the two minutes to spin the crank to get TDC anyway just in case something happens. Check your phasers, chains, and followers while you have the valve covers off.
I like to rile up you Ford guys is all, i work a few die hards, always sinking a shit ton of money into their Stangs and then never drive em. lol . Its a nice ride man. I like my Imp cuz its the fastest grocery getter ever produced. Cheers
The reason you need to compress the springs is so you don't drop the valve. You don't need to do this but if you do manage to drop the valve and not catch it, chances are you'll end up blowing out the piston and ruining that valve cover if you don't catch it.
i'm in the middle of this job and I need help! 07 mustang gt, this engine has cam bearings! how come I dont see cam bearings in any of these videos?? what's going on? I tried to install the new cams with the existing cam bearings and the engine wont spin.
Can we talk retro for a moment MR Compcams. I have an AMC 290 from 71, I want to upgrade to a mother Thumper, you have kits out there which include double row timing chain, roller rocker etc. Which part would you RECOMEND to freshen up my motor, and what hp gains should I expect with 600 vac sec, edelbrock air gap and headers, non J port heads.
i have a question. where the phase limiter kit installed? im asking because when you buy this kit its says that its required to install these items. i wanna do this upgrade, but i want to make sure i have all i need to do this.
Power gained throughout the curve is more valuable to most street/occasional strip drivers, even if they don't realize it. I'd rather have a flat curve than play who has the bigger number.
nope, 5.7 hasnt change in how many years of making it? the 350 went to 346 for the LS1 so it went down in displacement, and still owned the 4.6.....i think that would be new tech...and considering the new 5.0 has to have 32 valves to beat chevy...pushrod>modular
Does the 127050 kit need the phaser limiter kit? Also what do they sound like? There is not a video or anything in existence and I don't know what to compare them to. I just know they are "mild".
honestly dude its not to late to learn...when I had my honda i didnt kno sheeetttt just like mufflers and intakes, then i got a mazdaspeed 3 and i know like intake, turbo inlet, turbo manifold, downpipe, catback, intercoolers, blow off valve, wastegate, oil catch can, springs, slotted rottors, all kinds of things!! and ive only had the car for 3 MONTHS! haha still a lot to learn but i learned all that on my own just upgrading my car piece by piece and research
I always thought u had to use break in oil with no detergent and zinc additives to"BREAK IN" the cam...otherwise u can chew up the lobes on ur new cam...also cant let it ide below 2000 rpm or sum like that
I have a question. I have the xe270ah cams for my car a 2001 mustang gt. The old shop that installed it said that I did not need the springs for the cams. That was a few years ago now. Since then I have had it tuned and runs fine.
The XE270AH cams do need a valve spring upgrade for the best performance. It appears the factory springs can handle the lift of the cams, but they are a bit too light on pressure. Our 26113-16 valve springs have more pressure to keep the valve train stable in the upper RPMs,which is where more power is typically made. They are also more durable in the long run. The new springs do require new spring retainers part# 792-16. Hope this helps - thank you.
You can drive it with no tune, but it probably will not run that well depending upon the cam's duration. For more information about tuning you can feel free to call 1.800.999.0853 and talk to one of our techs. Thank you.
If I want a nasty idle sound is this a good cam?! But idnt want just the sound I want the sound and that horsepower when I smash on the gas I have a Chevy 350 I'm running I big cam rite now I need a 3500 stall and 4.10 gears to really feel that HP but I wanna change my cam but don't know what to get any suggestions thanks!
11 hp doesn't sound like much for the price. But, he says that the stock intake has airflow restrictions. New cam profiles mean that changes to the rest of the setup will be required to see full advantage. 11 horse for the cams.+15 horse for headers, better pipes and mufflers. 15 for ignition improvements (chip, etc.). 10 more with better intake flow Do them all at once and boom! "Tuning" is the weak point of fuel injected engines. At full throttle, carburetors rule. Cheaply.
I want to put a set of these in my 99 gt 2v. I have a 347 bored and stroked Windsor block, PI ported and polished heads, along with trick flow track heat intake manifold & plenums. BBK 78mm throttle body and BBK 70mm MAF. What cams would be a good choice for me? I really don't want to do the rollers, rockers and springs if I don't have to.
Just bought these, so you guys never moved the crank damper to the 12 o'clock position and all that stuff? You can really just take it off and as long as the timing chain and sprocket match up its good?
Roger, it looks easy and can be but if some thing goes wrong it goes horrible wrong and if you don't fix it bent valves and a non running motor are the results. The tool to lock the chains in place is between $89-$100+ I made one myself. I used a block of oak wood and drill rod for the wedge. The caveat about doing this is getting the new cam into the position of the old so that the key ways line up on the cam/sprocket. The left hand side went in with out a glitch. The right hand was a different story. It was my fault didn't make sure the cam cradles were all the way torqued down and fought to line up the key way resulted in chain slipping. Now to pull off front timing cover and play the timing game. My chain had no distinguishing marks so I could line up the timing marks had to pull it off clean it and mark it. They make tools from ford to lock the cams in place and dial the motor to TDC ect but it all adds $$ to cost of project. Also in car trying to get the torque wrench on the cradle bolts not that easy either thats why some of the procedure is not filmed they want to sell you the cams. Good luck on your project like I said if the chains don't move and cam key ways line up not too bad but also be aware of clearance issues getting valve cover off too.Good luck to you on this project hope it goes well.
mrelectron62 hey bud, im half sketched out about doing it, im pretty good at mechanic work but are the chances of fucking up pretty high? get back to me on some tips or whatever, thanks
1991tommygun If you have done mechanic work before this should not be too bad. Just make sure you got to the time to do it don't try to rush the job becasue you need the car tomorrow to go to work ect. Most of my issues came about becasue I did not pay attention to the cradle bolts being tightened enough and when I started fighting with trying to get the cam sprocket on I jumped time on the chain. That will require you to pull the front timing cover off not impossible to do but more work involved. You need a tool like they show in this video to lock the chain in place that is critical becasue if you lose tension on the chain and it sags it can come off the lower crank gear again requires you to pull the front cover off. If it all goes well its not a bad job or long if all you have to contend with is getting the valve cover off. I would tell you look at your motor first see where all the valve cover bolts are see if you can get to them with out too much trouble remember you'll need to be able to lift the cover up high enough to clear your cam cradles ect on my car the master cyl was in the way had to remove the bolts from the booster and move it to the side to get additional room. Not trying to scare you just plan ahead try to see what might get in your way and be prepared to deal with it and you should be good. Check out as many videos of the cam swap as you can and if you can find your exact year being done thats a big plus. Good luck on your project and like I said just don't rush it mark your chains and cam sprockets and lock you chain in place when swapping the cam and you'll be good.
@killergo44 Unfortunately we don't have a Thumpr part number for that engine, but we can grind Thumpr lobes onto a core. Give our techs a call 1.800.999.0853 and they will be able to help you out.
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
The dimension of sound you have added to your car is what makes the hair on my arm stand up. I, quite frankly, wouldn't care if it didn't make any extra horsepower, the symphony of sound it cranks out is worth the price of admission. Great work, Sir!!
Thanks so much - we're glad you liked it!
I agree 👍🏻
i was expecting at least 60-70whp with the cam and tune! 11wph can come from an intake and header back
Hell just the intake will get you that or a tune with no mods
You have no idea lol
@@MrSandhu11 well I do considering my car a tune alone got me 12hp intake and throttlebody was another 27hp full exaughst setup was another 18 HP and then I did 410 gears a intake manifold and pulleys the car fbo makes 380 to the wheel boost is next already ordered my eagle forged Pistons and rods and already have my new fuel pump and I'd 1000s just waiting on my back ordered hellion kit them I'll be around 800whp
Hi Mike, Yes you do need the phaser limiter kit part# 5449 with the Thumpr Cam. Thanks for asking.
Thanks for watching, Tim! We're glad you found it informative and enjoy the new cams!
Yes, at about 2:29 they talk about this. Basically, they don't let the chain move off of the sprocket, then install the new cam the same way the old one came out. The shop that did this install had done it many times before, so they really had the procedure down as simple as possible. Thanks for watching!
It depends a bit on your application, but they retail for $200 - $300. You can check out compcams.com for exact specs. Thanks so much, glad you liked the video!
Thumbs up for showing the install on this video, getting ready to do cams myself and this was the method I wanted to use (no spring compressor), thanks!!!
+ghunt81 Awesome -- let us know how it goes!
+COMP Cams Finished it a couple days ago-ran into a few small issues but the car is done and running!
ghunt81 Glad we could help! Congrats on getting the car finished!
+ghunt81 Can I ask what the issues were? I am about to try to install the cams myself and any advice would be greatly appeciated thanks
+Betty Issue I had was I didn't pay enough attention to how many lobes were engaging valves when I started to take the cams out. There is a position you can put the engine in where most of the lobes aren't engaging, it will be a slightly different position for both sides but that's where you will want it when you do this method. If it's not in that position it makes it really difficult to get the cams back in. You also have to pay attention to how the cam is centered in the bearings and over the followers, if it isn't you won't be able to get the front cam cap back on (that's where the thrust bearing is)
We're happy to hear that! Thanks for watching!
This project was actually done at Pro-Dyno, your best bet would be to contact Pro-Dyno.net for any specifics. Thank you.
@Kevs08stang Yes, it does require the the 5449 phaser limiter kit and custom ecu tuning.
This shop is in Fort Mill, SC - outside of Charlotte. Thank you.
Thank you all so much for the wonderful install tutorial !!! Sound is fantastic!
If you check with a few local auto parts stores in your area you should be able to find one. The exact wedge you will need may depend on your application. Hope this helps.
@planefloat Unfortunately there are too many variables (engine combination, weather, testing standards) that effect emissions testing. Therefore we are unable to certify that any aftermarket cam will pass your local emissions testing.
Pro Dyno is the only ones i trust to do mods on my Mustang
The work on this car was actually done at Pro-Dyno, so your best bet is to contact them at pro-dyno.net for any specifics. Thanks!
@planefloat Each cam is designed for a specific reason, it's hard to make a cam that's going to produce monster power that's not going to affect fuel mileage in some way or form. As for your question with drivability, there are many cars using these cams that are daily driven. Give our CAM HELP tech staff a call (1-8000-999-0853) or email if you have specific questions related to your application - they'll be glad to get you pointed in the right direction. Thanks for your interest in COMP Cams.
Yes, we do! You can check out options on the COMP Cams website, or feel free to call 1.800.999.0853 and one of our techs will be glad to help you out. Thanks for your interest.
You are right about the need for headers and intake changes. Plus, the 11 horse is at full throttle and rpm. I'm guessing there is an improvement all through the rpm range, which is actually what you will feel. It's not like you only get 11 on top and business as usual at every other rpm level. But...the automatic (yuk) does not effect horsepower. If you pull the slush box and put in a 6 speed...do you think the power goes up? No. The base test was with the same car/transmission!
This work was done at Pro Dyno, so your best bet would be contact the company at pro-dyno.net for specifics. Thanks!
Ive been holding out for the right 5.0 but the 4.6s are starting to grow on me now...
Oh, for sure. For the street especially, I think automatics make the car a lot less versatile. For a drag race only car, a built automatic can be the key to consistency, but I consider a stick to be substantially more fun. You can tailor your "stall speed" with your clutch leg. Takes experience, though, and skill, and that scares many away.
We understand. You can also feel free to email camhelp@compcams.com and those guys will also be happy to assist you. Thanks!
NO ONE DOES IT BETTER THAN DAN @ PRO DYNO!!!
I'll be going with the FRRP cams and heads myself and later an Edlebrock charger ! The FRRP parts have been tested specifically for the Mustang GT 4.6L, 3V motors so you will get the most bang for the buck.
dang! i was honestly pretty scared to tackle this install, but i think I may just have to do it now!
I am in the process of swapping to the mutha thumpa cam in my 08 gt, according to the ford racing instructions on getting the motor to tdc my #5 exhaust lobes should be coming off their stroke, but they're not when the timing mark is at the said "1o'clock" position
I know transmissions dont add or remove hp, but it does affect how much u plant to the wheels. an auto will have a little more driveline loss than a manual from the factory.
COMP Cams recommends changing the lifters, timing chain, springs and inspecting all other parts before reinstalling.
What would be a comparable camshaft set up for a 4.6l 4v (the DOHC engines)? It’s for a Marauder so it’s got a higher stall torque converter and a better gear low end gear ratio over that of a typical mustang GT.
Some require a tune and phasers others have no requirement and fit right on with factory parts depends what u want to really get in to
In states that have emissions testing, does the cam swap affect the amount of measured emissions? Great video, thanks!......Art
Thanks! We're happy to hear it!
If you're talking about the one I just looked up, that's not a stock or 'sealed' engine.
Question, after I install this cam, do I have to have a tune before I start and can drive it?
Yes you do
numbers would be higher if there was a tune also , 12.9/13.0 can be leaned, probably net another 10 whp , prior to exhaust etc too id think . not to shabby
Love the sound.
I realize the huge expense getting a C.A.R.B. approval. I'm in FL and tailpipe emissions inspection have been discontinued for years. Are there any downsides to the conversion i.e. decreased drivability, fuel mileage, cat converter overheating?
just go with a ford numbered cam man... like b303, e303, f303 there are plenty of videos on youtube of them, i personally suggest a b303 or e303 with 1.7 roller rockers they wont dissapoint... if you want to go bigger and still reliable then get some gt40 heads and almost any aftermarket intake to go with the cam youd be happy with it
Does the engine need to be in a certain position before you start?
do you need to have the crankshaft in a certain position when removing the cam?
Talin Egle: 0 degrees ATDC on the number one cylinder is probably a good idea.
is there a link to the full video of this install? not just bits and pieces. gonna do this myself this weekend and just want something to go by so i can make sure i keep the engine in time.
Did you have to set the engine at the one o' clock position?
Hi Oscar, the Thumpr cams are designed to have a great idle sound. Your best option though is to contact our CAM HELP line at 1.800.999.0853, the techs will have a few questions about your engine and overall setup and will then be able to help you pick out the best cam for your 350. Thank you.
Im going to be installing the stage 2 cams on my 02 mustang gt.
I don't work for the company, but yes they do. The only difference between the earlier mod and this one is the earlier is 2v rather than 3.
Question, besides not removing the cam followers it looked like mechanic Paul Connor didn't have to set the engine to TDC when swapping the cams for each side? If he is just matching the key way on the end of the cam that saves even more time with less steps.
Not sure if you still have this account since it’s been almost a decade you commented but I’m wanting to do cams on my 3v and just wanted to clarify that if I don’t remove those followers I could skip the step of setting the engine in tdc?
@@Axel.3v
Damm it's so long ago I don't remember if I didn't set to TDC the last time I swapped cams in it. Which was the sixth time I've done a 3V cam swap - so I was down to 4 hours for the whole job. I still have the car and 4 different cams for it. These cars are so old now that I would take the two minutes to spin the crank to get TDC anyway just in case something happens. Check your phasers, chains, and followers while you have the valve covers off.
@@wlmac will do, hoping to do them in the following weeks
I like to rile up you Ford guys is all, i work a few die hards, always sinking a shit ton of money into their Stangs and then never drive em. lol . Its a nice ride man. I like my Imp cuz its the fastest grocery getter ever produced. Cheers
The reason you need to compress the springs is so you don't drop the valve. You don't need to do this but if you do manage to drop the valve and not catch it, chances are you'll end up blowing out the piston and ruining that valve cover if you don't catch it.
@p4ndiamond ha, i'm a ford mechanic, and if you have never used one, try it, you'll never look back.
Very cool! Let us know how it goes!
I thought these neded a Phaser Limiter??
OK bro thanks for letting me know . He said don't put the lube on the lobes because it could cause damage . Only put it on the baerings.
i'm in the middle of this job and I need help! 07 mustang gt, this engine has cam bearings! how come I dont see cam bearings in any of these videos?? what's going on? I tried to install the new cams with the existing cam bearings and the engine wont spin.
Can we talk retro for a moment MR Compcams. I have an AMC 290 from 71, I want to upgrade to a mother Thumper, you have kits out there which include double row timing chain, roller rocker etc. Which part would you RECOMEND to freshen up my motor, and what hp gains should I expect with 600 vac sec, edelbrock air gap and headers, non J port heads.
Why didn't you put in the phaser limiters? Are you not concerned with degree issues and valves hitting the piston with variable valve timing??
I’m wondering the same thing
i have a question. where the phase limiter kit installed? im asking because when you buy this kit its says that its required to install these items. i wanna do this upgrade, but i want to make sure i have all i need to do this.
Power gained throughout the curve is more valuable to most street/occasional strip drivers, even if they don't realize it. I'd rather have a flat curve than play who has the bigger number.
Do you have a part # for this one? Currently, they have one but state it's requires cam limiters.
nope, 5.7 hasnt change in how many years of making it? the 350 went to 346 for the LS1 so it went down in displacement, and still owned the 4.6.....i think that would be new tech...and considering the new 5.0 has to have 32 valves to beat chevy...pushrod>modular
i was watching your video again, and i didnt see you all say anything about changing out the phaser limiters ? does that have to be done?
thanks mike
Does the 127050 kit need the phaser limiter kit? Also what do they sound like? There is not a video or anything in existence and I don't know what to compare them to. I just know they are "mild".
honestly dude its not to late to learn...when I had my honda i didnt kno sheeetttt just like mufflers and intakes, then i got a mazdaspeed 3 and i know like intake, turbo inlet, turbo manifold, downpipe, catback, intercoolers, blow off valve, wastegate, oil catch can, springs, slotted rottors, all kinds of things!! and ive only had the car for 3 MONTHS! haha still a lot to learn but i learned all that on my own just upgrading my car piece by piece and research
I noticed y’all didn’t use the limiters?
Where is the spacer and washer the comp cams manual recommends? F3AZ-6265-A & F1AZ-6278-A
By chance do you have the link to these exact cams I would love to order some like these Where I don’t have to change anything other than the cam
is there any additional work recommended before installing a new cam?
I always thought u had to use break in oil with no detergent and zinc additives to"BREAK IN" the cam...otherwise u can chew up the lobes on ur new cam...also cant let it ide below 2000 rpm or sum like that
Can you make custom grind thumpr cams for the earlier mod motors? I want some for my 04 crown vic
I have a question. I have the xe270ah cams for my car a 2001 mustang gt. The old shop that installed it said that I did not need the springs for the cams. That was a few years ago now. Since then I have had it tuned and runs fine.
The XE270AH cams do need a valve spring upgrade for the best performance. It appears the factory springs can handle the lift of the cams, but they are a bit too light on pressure. Our 26113-16 valve springs have more pressure to keep the valve train stable in the upper RPMs,which is where more power is typically made. They are also more durable in the long run. The new springs do require new spring retainers part# 792-16. Hope this helps - thank you.
COMP Cams good info. Looks.like ill get the spring upgrade. I always felt i should be making more hp than what I have made so far.
You can drive it with no tune, but it probably will not run that well depending upon the cam's duration. For more information about tuning you can feel free to call 1.800.999.0853 and talk to one of our techs. Thank you.
when you removed the sprocket with the chain on, the cam didnt spin?
so if I do this method I don't have to turn a crank back and forth from 6 and 12 like most of these video show
I cannot seem to find the Timing Chain Wedge, any direction to go to find one?
So you started the vehicle before the tune? Is that safe?
If I want a nasty idle sound is this a good cam?! But idnt want just the sound I want the sound and that horsepower when I smash on the gas I have a Chevy 350 I'm running I big cam rite now I need a 3500 stall and 4.10 gears to really feel that HP but I wanna change my cam but don't know what to get any suggestions thanks!
Where can I purchase the new cams for my 2014 Mustang V6 3.7? Please provide a link.
11 hp doesn't sound like much for the price. But, he says that the stock intake has airflow restrictions. New cam profiles mean that changes to the rest of the setup will be required to see full advantage. 11 horse for the cams.+15 horse for headers, better pipes and mufflers. 15 for ignition improvements (chip, etc.). 10 more with better intake flow Do them all at once and boom! "Tuning" is the weak point of fuel injected engines. At full throttle, carburetors rule. Cheaply.
I want to put a set of these in my 99 gt 2v. I have a 347 bored and stroked Windsor block, PI ported and polished heads, along with trick flow track heat intake manifold & plenums. BBK 78mm throttle body and BBK 70mm MAF. What cams would be a good choice for me? I really don't want to do the rollers, rockers and springs if I don't have to.
Just bought these, so you guys never moved the crank damper to the 12 o'clock position and all that stuff? You can really just take it off and as long as the timing chain and sprocket match up its good?
Roger, it looks easy and can be but if some thing goes wrong it goes horrible wrong and if you don't fix it bent valves and a non running motor are the results. The tool to lock the chains in place is between $89-$100+ I made one myself. I used a block of oak wood and drill rod for the wedge. The caveat about doing this is getting the new cam into the position of the old so that the key ways line up on the cam/sprocket. The left hand side went in with out a glitch. The right hand was a different story. It was my fault didn't make sure the cam cradles were all the way torqued down and fought to line up the key way resulted in chain slipping. Now to pull off front timing cover and play the timing game. My chain had no distinguishing marks so I could line up the timing marks had to pull it off clean it and mark it. They make tools from ford to lock the cams in place and dial the motor to TDC ect but it all adds $$ to cost of project. Also in car trying to get the torque wrench on the cradle bolts not that easy either thats why some of the procedure is not filmed they want to sell you the cams. Good luck on your project like I said if the chains don't move and cam key ways line up not too bad but also be aware of clearance issues getting valve cover off too.Good luck to you on this project hope it goes well.
mrelectron62 hey bud, im half sketched out about doing it, im pretty good at mechanic work but are the chances of fucking up pretty high? get back to me on some tips or whatever, thanks
1991tommygun If you have done mechanic work before this should not be too bad. Just make sure you got to the time to do it don't try to rush the job becasue you need the car tomorrow to go to work ect. Most of my issues came about becasue I did not pay attention to the cradle bolts being tightened enough and when I started fighting with trying to get the cam sprocket on I jumped time on the chain. That will require you to pull the front timing cover off not impossible to do but more work involved. You need a tool like they show in this video to lock the chain in place that is
critical becasue if you lose tension on the chain and it sags it can come off the lower crank gear again requires you to pull the front cover off. If it all goes well its not a bad job or long if all you have to contend with is getting the valve cover off. I would tell you look at your motor first see where all the valve cover bolts are see if you can get to them with out too much trouble remember you'll need to be able to lift the cover up high enough to clear your cam cradles ect on my car the master cyl was in the way had to remove the bolts from the booster and move it to the side to get additional room. Not trying to scare you just plan ahead try to see what might get in your way and be prepared to deal with it and you should be good. Check out as many videos of the cam swap as you can and if you can find your exact year being done thats a big plus. Good luck on your project and like I said just don't rush it mark your chains and cam sprockets and lock you chain in place when swapping the cam and you'll be good.
Is it possible to use the chain wedge tool on 96-04 2v motors?
Do you have to put the engine on TDC or you don't do that either thanks JohN
You don't need to move the timing when installing this cams?
did y'all use the cam phaser limiters and how much does the tune typically cost
Will I need to tune the car after this ?
I'm guessing you don't make these for an 05 saab 95 2.3T Arc?
I was answering the other person that asked about break in procedure that's all.
you didnt have to intall phaser limiters >?
I will upload a video of it when I do!
Probably because they did a cam swap when they still had a stock intake. I'm sure that kills the power increase from the cam. :(
Thanks for watching!
i noticed he didnt put limiters or lockouts in the phasers, what up with that?
Jake Buchanan you don’t need it for the stage 1.. you need it for mutha thumpers which is stage 2.
What do you do for wheel hop?
Is this a similar install to the 4.6 3v comp 2 nsr cams?
What is the best idle speed for these after installing them
@need2speed94 Please check your inbox for the web address to the cam specs you have requested.
What cam should i put on my 89 5.0 its mostly stock just pullies and intake ?.
Any Thumpr Cams for a 5.4 Ford Lightning, 2002 Gen 2, 2v???
Where's this shop at where they installed the cams?
Is 11 hp really all that is gained? Was this with the tune? Man I really wanted this done but it sounds like it’s not worth it.
These is kinda the same as a 2001 f150 4.6 right
@killergo44 Unfortunately we don't have a Thumpr part number for that engine, but we can grind Thumpr lobes onto a core. Give our techs a call 1.800.999.0853 and they will be able to help you out.