I was just gifted an Ender 3 S1 and this is going to be one of my first projects after I get the hint of the basics. These sounded fantastic. Great design and execution!
that looks like a banging heater control on the heated bed, not z wobble or any other mechanical issue. check the temperature graph over time. the flatter the better. on banging heater control, it turns on when its below a certain threshold, and off when above. but it lags behind so it starts oscillating. PID tries to compensate for lag give it marlin, enable PID control and it should stabilize after auto-tuning.
i miss the good old days ! back in tombston, your workshop in the backyard. mdf enclosure tutorials. T line theory. Sharing your life with sophie and familly/friends. You are the first vlogger i ever follow i feel bad that i'll never be able to acces that content anymore because of youtube. Anyway love you guys !
Unbelievable low end frequency response! The mids are really tight and you have once again made me a believer! You are definitely a skilled man! Bravo! 👏
15:47 those things sound amazing!!! It really shows how important design is in a speaker. I can, but also can’t believe those small drivers are hitting those frequencies! I’m definitely going to be printing these and build them at some point! Absolutely amazing job!!!
>Printing 3D from parametric modeling changes the game, puts a driver in a higher level of performance regardless of it's quality/performance & price, all your vids are super smart!
@@HexiBase I recently bought a pair of IK Multimedia iLoud MTM monitors as my main reference in my bedroom because they're tiny and they slap. Rear ported which I don't like but the DSP is cool. I would love to complement these with a single-driver DIY set with the same footprint. I like the 3D-printed builds like in this video and also the CNC layer-cake builds (as in your earlier video). I don't own a printer or laser so I'd have to outsource that end of it to a local maker.
Hi! Just wanted to say, i've recently switched my dremel to a nail drill, and with some mods the nail drill is just hands-down better. I've even posted a video about it, it's in russian though.
Im so happy I got a used flashforge guider printer to saves me from all this pain I had with my older printers even if its far from any new bamboolabs its still very reliable
Badass vid! Great job as always! I just realized I’ve been following Pete for years now. From that little shed he used to make PWK boxes in(which I had plans drawn up for 4 12’s in my Sequoia) to now with his high end production value videos! Way to go!
Funnily enough I've been running a pair of fountek fr88's in 3d printed spherical enclosures with a pair of pass radiators each for a few years now. I made a second set for my work from home desk using LaVoce Fan030's. Love the idea of 3d printed speakers enclosures. Even developed and printed a whole set of 5 speaker for a small home theatre setup. I've got a ways to go until I'm on your level with tuning though. At the moment I'm using/making the most basic of crossover networks with no notch filters.
@@HexiBase thanks for the reply. I got lucky with these little full ranges. Haven't needed a crossover on either. Though I couldn't afford the desk space to give them as optimal of air space as yours. As for my component speaker sets I tend to run 2nd order linkwitz riley. I know the normal electrical uses electronics but the music effects amaze me. Still learning the hardware side of things, my only real experience with different crossovers has been signal processors like my audison bit 10 and my mosconi 4to6. So much more to learn. Love to see your videos, I'm always waiting for the next one.
That banding issues might be a result of the bed heating. The firmware may be set to use bang-bang heating instead of PID. Bang-bang is pretty crude and results in big platform temp swings, which manifests itself as vertical banding on the print as the bed expands and co tracts. The only reason I say this over lead screw wobble is the frequency of the banding seems to change near the top of each print, and lead screw wobble shouldn’t change like that.
Something I've noticed in your recent videos is that they have a certain rythm to them - it's like you're applying music production skills to video production and it works so well. The best example is at 13:58: "Right, left, music, *hit play*". Keep up your great work! 😀
Your engineering, design and video production skills are epic mate. Really enjoyed watching this vid! Speakers sounded great when listening back to your recording on my AKG K702s plugged in to a Motu M2. Cheers from Melbourne, Aus.
I had a similar banding issue on my first printer. It ended up being the PID tuning on the nozzle temp. It was oscillating enough that it had similar banding. I watched this video via bluetooth on my FiiO k5 with tin t2 IEMs.
Just got this printer and it prints like a beast! For 3 days, then it died. One thing I have to give to Mingda: an extremely responsive customer service. From the time I reached out to them,to the point they diagnosed the issue (failed PSU), to them asking for my shipping details, all-in-all, maybe 4 hours. At most. On the sidenote, printer handles overhangs up to 80 degrees, you just need to tune your temps for your filament. Cooling is good enough. Top tip: re-level your bed, then go to Cura and in machine settings, go to start gcode box and enter: M420 S1, right after the G28. For some reason, probably the omission, the default profile doesn't use the pre-levelled mesh. This fixes the issue. You'll only have to baby step the first print, very slighly, one you save, you really won't have to do it.
Another incredible video! I've stopped working with audio almost 2 decades ago, but since I discovered your channel, and considering that now I have a 3d printer, I want to mess with it again. So much to learn, specially about digital audio treatment which I know basically nothing, or almost nothing. Any recommendations on where I should start looking to learn? Have a nice day!
For glass beds i recommend 3DLac you don't need high temperatures on the bed so you don't get "elephants foot" bulging etc and everything sticks really well
Listening in a set of Sennheiser PXC 550-II's through my PC I was surprised at the low end extension of of these small drivers. They hang on the transitions down low though. Or could be a RUclips compression issue. Other wise they sound nice and warm. A little soft on the high end, but not harsh like I was expecting.
Lead screw doesn't need to wobble or be visibly bent to eye to be still bent. Most of the lead screws on printers are always bit bent, no company sells 100% fault free lead screws. You can how ever fix it mostly by adding connectors on lead screws that have ball bearings that negate some of the wobble
My daughter bought a boat. Used it for 1 season. Sold it around 3 years lol If you don't live on it, get rid of the boat and invent some killer speakers lol Oooo. Then buy a yacht! 🧐 No, wait. Heh heh ✌️😁✌️
Hi, dear Pete. Thanks for your job. From the video we can see there are some layer shifts in the model, it is mainly due to the Z axes need to be adjusted. During the shipping, the Z axes will be pressed for a long time. It will affect the axises' accuracy. Here are some suggestions that will be helpful. 1. Please kindly check the Z axes rob whether they are bent or not. 2. If the Z-axis robs are straight please kindly add the gasket on the X-axis to decrease the shaking during printing. About the first layer cannot stick on the heating bed well, it seems the first layer is very thin, please kindly increase the baby step when making the first layer printing. It will be helpful. Baby step settings can be saved, no need to reset every time And as you said in the video, the MINGDA Magician X in your hand is the demo machine, considering the influence of long-time shipment, we have strengthened the fixation of the Z-axis on our following batch order since July. Hope our suggestions will be helpful for you. Thanks
Slightly loosening the the nuts/screws on lead screw nuts should help. It will allow for a little movement in the leadscrew, so the wobble of the screw isn't directly translated into the print.
Plastic not sticking to the table is a trouble for any PLA print in printers like this, and forget about ABS. You need a box case to keep the bed hot and prevent air movement cooling it down, and you need glue on the glass for better adhesion. PVA-based glue stick is one way, but there are many other possible solutions.
ive got the mingda d2 and besides not having good support for the wires going into the heated bed its a great printer. really thinking of getting their new large format magician printer or the d4 400mm x 400mm would be great to work with sometimes. though id prefer corexy
also i have other printers that use this kind of bed leveling. they all seem flawed and often seem to lose calibration. i would prefer bl touch and straight marlin
Mhm looks like classic Z-wobble. Something with the lead screw alignment where it's maybe a little too far off to the side, or maybe it's misshapen. Though that needs to be verified against actual lead screw pitch. This can happen in shipping, due to the placement tolerances during assembly (when you put the preassembled XZ gantry on the preassembled Y axis) or due to just sheer manufacturing defect. Z-wobble can be quite a curse, since there's a bunch of things causing similar symptoms. The bed temperature not being a great reading is pretty normal, the probe is under the alu, but what you really care about is temperature above the glass; and it will vary printer to printer, it's easy to undershoot with a glass bed. I'm going to say i don't exactly expect 80°C probe temp to be insufficient though. What's up with the bed adhesion? I have no clue. What kind of measurement method for the Z probe? Is it pressure sensitive, like it bumps the nozzle into the glass and registers a switch? Then it would be weird for it to behave that way. If it's inductive, you may want commands which turn off the bed temporarily while probing, though they should have taken care of that in the firmware, they can actually suppress heater EMI specifically during probing downstrokes, like PROBING_HEATERS_OFF and that section. Then again at that point they should pay you to be their QA. 15:23 what's the test music piece? Sounds very amiga-demoscene-mod.
@@HexiBase Oh nice, thanks, good stuff. MUCH nicer than second-hand listening through small speakers that aren't even mine. Might be a piezo on the toolhead registering nozzle touch, and vibrations can upset it. It could even be Z wobble causing the mistrigger. Also one reason i never built a nozzle touch probe for myself is that the nozzle gunk is something i specifically didn't want affecting my probing, but i was tempted.
Great build! I'm studying engineering, first year currently, and yet to pick a specialization... but from watching your videos, acoustics seems to be a cool area!
Oky so I always had someone doing my sound and got tired cause its always the same thing bigger better but now I stumbled on your channel and I only know the basic your videos are very useful I got myself bench watching your videos..
Good video montage and content, as always! If I can help, I think that the issue with bed-leveling was related to CURA that send a G28 code before any print. This code just reset all auto-leveling mesh stored in the printer. Try adding G29 after G28 in the cura printer settings, it should do the trick!
Fantastic audio project. Presumably, adding cone mass to the "drone cone" (passive radiator) is the electromechanical equivalent of adding mass to the main transducer's cone - sucks more current from the amplifier, the electrical equivalent of adding a parallel capacitance load in Thiele-Small parameters? No biggy, but the bottom end bass gain is presumably ultimately contributed by the amplifier, just like the "smile" EQ curve shown at c. 2 min mark
Impressive sound for a pair of small 3 inch speakers. Is there any reason not to attach passive radiator on the same baffle as that of the main driver?
@@HexiBase Sound amazing through my Skullcandy Crushers. Amazing that such a small speaker packs a large punch. Definitely not impressed by this printer. There seems to be a new generation that don’t quite deliver. I’m still happy using my old Cr10 s. I’ve fitted auto level and a few other bits and it has never let me down.
I can’t imagine waiting that long for a box to print 😳 Your ‘hexibox’ took me only about 2.5 days to print entirely at 80% scale and 40% infill in ABS. Side note, fits a Rockford Fosgate HE2 8” sub perfectly and it sounds better than my RF HX2 10” sub in a bug box store huge vented enclosure. You should consider building a Voron 2.4 in 350x350x350 size for some of your large print ideas. Printing PLA you can likely print at 250mm/sec++ with results better than the Creality large format printer you have. Just an idea anyway. Massive thanks for sharing all these designs! I think i’ll try the ‘hexibox’ full size with PETG in the near future!
I’ve been watching you for a wile and you know your stuff, more than I ever could gather.what is a good recipe for mids in a car door for cubic foot as there’s no basic footage in any of the Manuel’s I have. Basically want to shove a chuchero box in each door. 2 8” mid 2 6 1/2” mid and a horn. I know there’s a formula for using foam peanuts to measure cubic foot but I have nothing to go by.
Great video series! Could you comment on the use of servo control in subwoofers? What does that bring to the table? How does it change the enclosure design?
I'd bet they'd sound better if this was a laminated wood cabinet? As is, I think they sound a bit muted, maybe slightly boomy? I'm not sure how to describe. They don't have the clarity of a monitor. I'm listening on M-Audio M3-8s w/ stereo BX subwoofers.
Amazing video as always! Great review of 3D Printer, great project of Studio Monitors and awesome commentary!!! I simply love your videos! Ps. What is that last demo loop? It's awesome and perfect for testing subwoofers! :)
PS To make the test more inclusive, played a song by Erra, Vanish Canvas (Thinking it may be louder) It also peaked at 100db Noyyyissss! Your process is Fantastic! M
You make it hard not to get a printer and start making an enclosure for the work truck. Have you done any comparisons with different materials? Something like the carbon reinforced stuffs.
I have noticed that, since the video where you tested the acoustic properties of Pla vs woods, you have been using giroid infil. Have you tried to use cubic or an other tips that makes closed cells? Giroid has a specific propriety and is that it's all connected like a sponge or a fiber, if you make a hole on one side of the item and on other one on the oposit side you can blow air though it. I think this can severely affect the properties of sound dampening since its only a single bacume chamber instead of multiple small ones. Great videos, I'm currently testing Markaudio drivers with a 3D printed enclosure hehe.
Took me a minute to realize which is which. The one on the left is the messed up print. It's bass response is stronger, but it sounds like it is missing some highs in turn.
Fountain of knowledge... Searching through your videos for one explaining how to read spectrum analyser wave results. Do you have one you can share a link?
I got this printer recently and just wanted to note most of these problems are gone and the only problem I have had is that it actually sticks to much to the build plate and can get kinda. Hard to get off so a blessing and a curse ig
Sounds great but the speakers should be towed in towards the listener (microphones). At least I'd like to hear it that way for comparison. I might drop the EQ altogether, even though the graphs make it appear to flatten the response, there's something missing in the midbass/midrange areas. Lotta bass and highs. Unless it's just a weird song / mix.
Those are super cool. It always impresses me how much bass extension you can get out of so little. In terms of drivers, vents, and box volume. Also, I listened with my Samson sr850s through my phone, and the soundstaging by those seemed really impressive to me
Can you comment on infill density? I've seen your video comparing different material types, but you didn't do 100% infill. My understanding is that you want the densest, stiffest material. So other than cost and print time why wouldn't you do 100% infill? Thanks
man, would love a 2 way or 3 way setup u create, made the single driver speaker with the tang band driver for son, imaging is great, sound is great, except when excursion and highs are present, distortion becomes an issue and medium-high levels.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
3D Print: Simple, yeah.
3D Printer: Alright, simple.
Video Editing: complex, full of content and amazingly detailed.
Thanks for the video and review!
@@HexiBase I have a feeling the stripes/banding is the heated bed using Bang-Bang and not PID for its temp.
I was just gifted an Ender 3 S1 and this is going to be one of my first projects after I get the hint of the basics. These sounded fantastic. Great design and execution!
The production value has increased greatly since your first videos. Insane.
... lol .... That perfectly timed whistle .. lol ...
Im satisfied
when he was needed most, he returned
Wh40k
that looks like a banging heater control on the heated bed, not z wobble or any other mechanical issue.
check the temperature graph over time. the flatter the better. on banging heater control, it turns on when its below a certain threshold, and off when above. but it lags behind so it starts oscillating. PID tries to compensate for lag
give it marlin, enable PID control and it should stabilize after auto-tuning.
Agreed, I had the exact same issue and solved it with a PID tune 👌🏻
i miss the good old days !
back in tombston, your workshop in the backyard.
mdf enclosure tutorials.
T line theory.
Sharing your life with sophie and familly/friends.
You are the first vlogger i ever follow
i feel bad that i'll never be able to acces that content anymore because of youtube.
Anyway love you guys !
Unbelievable low end frequency response! The mids are really tight and you have once again made me a believer! You are definitely a skilled man! Bravo! 👏
crazy, I was just watching some of your older videos and BAM, a new one drops! glad you're back.
Such an underated channel, with a very rare production quality and information. Definitely in my top 10
such a long wait, but worth it.
Thanks man I love how you explain things keep up with the cool projects
Been waiting for your videos.
@@HexiBase I actually kinda like it when the printer has... issues lol.
@@HexiBase Well that and I rather appreciate the extra dry sarcasm hahahah.
15:47 those things sound amazing!!! It really shows how important design is in a speaker. I can, but also can’t believe those small drivers are hitting those frequencies! I’m definitely going to be printing these and build them at some point! Absolutely amazing job!!!
Did you end up printing these? Speakers are sold out and discontinued sadly
Finally a hexibase notification. I've been looking forward to it 😁
>Printing 3D from parametric modeling changes the game, puts a driver in a higher level of performance regardless of it's quality/performance & price, all your vids are super smart!
They look and sound awesome!
New HexiBase video: 🍺🤩
'Studio Monitor' in the thumbnail: 💉🤯
I think you may have just made my week.
@@HexiBase I recently bought a pair of IK Multimedia iLoud MTM monitors as my main reference in my bedroom because they're tiny and they slap. Rear ported which I don't like but the DSP is cool.
I would love to complement these with a single-driver DIY set with the same footprint. I like the 3D-printed builds like in this video and also the CNC layer-cake builds (as in your earlier video). I don't own a printer or laser so I'd have to outsource that end of it to a local maker.
Hi! Just wanted to say, i've recently switched my dremel to a nail drill, and with some mods the nail drill is just hands-down better. I've even posted a video about it, it's in russian though.
nice!!!!! I always wanted a 3d print monitor project. Thanks
Most hilarious content you have done so far but also extremely infomative and didn'st stray from your roots. Thanks.
A wealth of tangible knowledge. Thank you for sharing.
Im so happy I got a used flashforge guider printer to saves me from all this pain I had with my older printers even if its far from any new bamboolabs its still very reliable
Badass vid! Great job as always!
I just realized I’ve been following Pete for years now. From that little shed he used to make PWK boxes in(which I had plans drawn up for 4 12’s in my Sequoia) to now with his high end production value videos! Way to go!
Excellent video as always sir.
Funnily enough I've been running a pair of fountek fr88's in 3d printed spherical enclosures with a pair of pass radiators each for a few years now. I made a second set for my work from home desk using LaVoce Fan030's. Love the idea of 3d printed speakers enclosures. Even developed and printed a whole set of 5 speaker for a small home theatre setup. I've got a ways to go until I'm on your level with tuning though. At the moment I'm using/making the most basic of crossover networks with no notch filters.
@@HexiBase thanks for the reply. I got lucky with these little full ranges. Haven't needed a crossover on either. Though I couldn't afford the desk space to give them as optimal of air space as yours. As for my component speaker sets I tend to run 2nd order linkwitz riley. I know the normal electrical uses electronics but the music effects amaze me. Still learning the hardware side of things, my only real experience with different crossovers has been signal processors like my audison bit 10 and my mosconi 4to6. So much more to learn. Love to see your videos, I'm always waiting for the next one.
That banding issues might be a result of the bed heating. The firmware may be set to use bang-bang heating instead of PID. Bang-bang is pretty crude and results in big platform temp swings, which manifests itself as vertical banding on the print as the bed expands and co tracts. The only reason I say this over lead screw wobble is the frequency of the banding seems to change near the top of each print, and lead screw wobble shouldn’t change like that.
Something I've noticed in your recent videos is that they have a certain rythm to them - it's like you're applying music production skills to video production and it works so well. The best example is at 13:58: "Right, left, music, *hit play*".
Keep up your great work! 😀
14:21 - That's some bass depth right there!
Your engineering, design and video production skills are epic mate. Really enjoyed watching this vid! Speakers sounded great when listening back to your recording on my AKG K702s plugged in to a Motu M2. Cheers from Melbourne, Aus.
I skip the 3D printer content and stay for the audio component. Thanks for adding chapters to make it easier!
I had a similar banding issue on my first printer. It ended up being the PID tuning on the nozzle temp. It was oscillating enough that it had similar banding.
I watched this video via bluetooth on my FiiO k5 with tin t2 IEMs.
I’ve really enjoyed your videos and attention to detail all around! Keep up the great work!
Just got this printer and it prints like a beast! For 3 days, then it died. One thing I have to give to Mingda: an extremely responsive customer service. From the time I reached out to them,to the point they diagnosed the issue (failed PSU), to them asking for my shipping details, all-in-all, maybe 4 hours. At most. On the sidenote, printer handles overhangs up to 80 degrees, you just need to tune your temps for your filament. Cooling is good enough. Top tip: re-level your bed, then go to Cura and in machine settings, go to start gcode box and enter: M420 S1, right after the G28. For some reason, probably the omission, the default profile doesn't use the pre-levelled mesh. This fixes the issue. You'll only have to baby step the first print, very slighly, one you save, you really won't have to do it.
Fantastic video as always! Will you be uploading the STL for these? I'm keen to print them!
Another incredible video!
I've stopped working with audio almost 2 decades ago, but since I discovered your channel, and considering that now I have a 3d printer, I want to mess with it again. So much to learn, specially about digital audio treatment which I know basically nothing, or almost nothing. Any recommendations on where I should start looking to learn? Have a nice day!
Look the minidsp 2x4hd or adau 1701 wondom dev boards.
@@ponakka I love my minidsp. Helped my truck's system sound great.
For glass beds i recommend 3DLac
you don't need high temperatures on the bed so you don't get "elephants foot" bulging etc and everything sticks really well
Ideal use with bmr full range drivers, more bang for the buck. Coat inner with cheap coating rubber or silicone.
The amount of Base produce is impressive.
nice work love the detail
Again you’ve made an outstanding sounding project Peter. Are you going to publish these stl files for us to experience as well? Please.
Hear, hear! The .STL's and used parts would be awesome, these scream out to be replicated!
Listening in a set of Sennheiser PXC 550-II's through my PC I was surprised at the low end extension of of these small drivers. They hang on the transitions down low though. Or could be a RUclips compression issue. Other wise they sound nice and warm. A little soft on the high end, but not harsh like I was expecting.
Build plate is probably flexing up and down within heating threshold temps. CNC kitchen did a great video on that
Lead screw doesn't need to wobble or be visibly bent to eye to be still bent. Most of the lead screws on printers are always bit bent, no company sells 100% fault free lead screws. You can how ever fix it mostly by adding connectors on lead screws that have ball bearings that negate some of the wobble
You sure end up with a lot of lemon 3d printers!
One very smart guy right here keep the great work bud🚗🔊🎶
Wish you had the time to do more videos! i love your work and use many of your STLs! thanks for everything
Will you release the BOM and 3d files?
Pleaseeee ;)
@@gasparsantos684 as always
Hi I was thinking about an 8th order in a cylinder with 2 W7 JL 13” for my boat. What do you think?
My daughter bought a boat. Used it for 1 season. Sold it around 3 years lol
If you don't live on it, get rid of the boat and invent some killer speakers lol
Oooo. Then buy a yacht!
🧐
No, wait. Heh heh
✌️😁✌️
Excellent as usual, and well timed as I'm remodeling an outdoor shed for my new office/studio area, will look to incorporate these 😄
Hi, dear Pete. Thanks for your job.
From the video we can see there are some layer shifts in the model, it is mainly due to the Z axes need to be adjusted.
During the shipping, the Z axes will be pressed for a long time. It will affect the axises' accuracy.
Here are some suggestions that will be helpful.
1. Please kindly check the Z axes rob whether they are bent or not.
2. If the Z-axis robs are straight please kindly add the gasket on the X-axis to decrease the shaking during printing.
About the first layer cannot stick on the heating bed well, it seems the first layer is very thin, please kindly increase the baby step when making the first layer printing. It will be helpful. Baby step settings can be saved, no need to reset every time
And as you said in the video, the MINGDA Magician X in your hand is the demo machine, considering the influence of long-time shipment, we have strengthened the fixation of the Z-axis on our following batch order since July.
Hope our suggestions will be helpful for you. Thanks
Monitors in a half shell...Hexi power
Yoo I checked just today if you had made another of these 3d print videos nice!
The Fountek FR89EX seem to be discontinued. Suggestion on a replacement?
Slightly loosening the the nuts/screws on lead screw nuts should help. It will allow for a little movement in the leadscrew, so the wobble of the screw isn't directly translated into the print.
Great job… just wondering why you don’t add any damping material inside?
Awesome editing!!!
Plastic not sticking to the table is a trouble for any PLA print in printers like this, and forget about ABS. You need a box case to keep the bed hot and prevent air movement cooling it down, and you need glue on the glass for better adhesion. PVA-based glue stick is one way, but there are many other possible solutions.
Great choice using Emotiva for amplification!
Also is that Foobar2000 I see on the laptop during the demo?
So amazing !
Good work ! :)
ive got the mingda d2 and besides not having good support for the wires going into the heated bed its a great printer. really thinking of getting their new large format magician printer or the d4 400mm x 400mm would be great to work with sometimes. though id prefer corexy
also i have other printers that use this kind of bed leveling. they all seem flawed and often seem to lose calibration. i would prefer bl touch and straight marlin
and i dont like glass beds never had great luck with them. i prefer flexible steel and pei
on the d2 ive manually leveled it 1 time then put it in for near constant 24/7 printing. have not had to level it since been at it 2 months now
Mhm looks like classic Z-wobble. Something with the lead screw alignment where it's maybe a little too far off to the side, or maybe it's misshapen. Though that needs to be verified against actual lead screw pitch. This can happen in shipping, due to the placement tolerances during assembly (when you put the preassembled XZ gantry on the preassembled Y axis) or due to just sheer manufacturing defect. Z-wobble can be quite a curse, since there's a bunch of things causing similar symptoms.
The bed temperature not being a great reading is pretty normal, the probe is under the alu, but what you really care about is temperature above the glass; and it will vary printer to printer, it's easy to undershoot with a glass bed. I'm going to say i don't exactly expect 80°C probe temp to be insufficient though.
What's up with the bed adhesion? I have no clue.
What kind of measurement method for the Z probe? Is it pressure sensitive, like it bumps the nozzle into the glass and registers a switch? Then it would be weird for it to behave that way. If it's inductive, you may want commands which turn off the bed temporarily while probing, though they should have taken care of that in the firmware, they can actually suppress heater EMI specifically during probing downstrokes, like PROBING_HEATERS_OFF and that section. Then again at that point they should pay you to be their QA.
15:23 what's the test music piece? Sounds very amiga-demoscene-mod.
@@HexiBase Oh nice, thanks, good stuff. MUCH nicer than second-hand listening through small speakers that aren't even mine.
Might be a piezo on the toolhead registering nozzle touch, and vibrations can upset it. It could even be Z wobble causing the mistrigger. Also one reason i never built a nozzle touch probe for myself is that the nozzle gunk is something i specifically didn't want affecting my probing, but i was tempted.
Nice man, if you drop that design at any point I will wanna make them to pair with the TB 3in sub enclosure I made.
Amazing job. Congratulations. Thanks for the content.
Nice video ! Btw I’m wondering, is there a full version of the intro song ? If yes, I’d like to know where it is. Thanks
Any plans of making a ultra compact sub, like the kef kc62?
But passive.
Regards Claus
Great build! I'm studying engineering, first year currently, and yet to pick a specialization... but from watching your videos, acoustics seems to be a cool area!
Any hint on what kind of nice stereo amplifier you could use them for? Maybe one which you could connect directly as a sound device via USB?
Oky so I always had someone doing my sound and got tired cause its always the same thing bigger better but now I stumbled on your channel and I only know the basic your videos are very useful I got myself bench watching your videos..
I love Hatchbox PLA. It just simply prints hassle free and looks great!!!
Good video montage and content, as always!
If I can help, I think that the issue with bed-leveling was related to CURA that send a G28 code before any print. This code just reset all auto-leveling mesh stored in the printer.
Try adding G29 after G28 in the cura printer settings, it should do the trick!
Add enough rounding to the top inside and not (much) bridging needed eather.
Fantastic audio project.
Presumably, adding cone mass to the "drone cone" (passive radiator) is the electromechanical equivalent of adding mass to the main transducer's cone - sucks more current from the amplifier, the electrical equivalent of adding a parallel capacitance load in Thiele-Small parameters?
No biggy, but the bottom end bass gain is presumably ultimately contributed by the amplifier, just like the "smile" EQ curve shown at c. 2 min mark
Impressive sound for a pair of small 3 inch speakers. Is there any reason not to attach passive radiator on the same baffle as that of the main driver?
@@HexiBase Thank you, great work.👍
@@HexiBase you should do a video on the software you use for modeling :)
Ooof. Thump. Love them 👍
@@HexiBase Sound amazing through my Skullcandy Crushers. Amazing that such a small speaker packs a large punch. Definitely not impressed by this printer. There seems to be a new generation that don’t quite deliver. I’m still happy using my old Cr10 s. I’ve fitted auto level and a few other bits and it has never let me down.
I can’t imagine waiting that long for a box to print 😳
Your ‘hexibox’ took me only about 2.5 days to print entirely at 80% scale and 40% infill in ABS.
Side note, fits a Rockford Fosgate HE2 8” sub perfectly and it sounds better than my RF HX2 10” sub in a bug box store huge vented enclosure.
You should consider building a Voron 2.4 in 350x350x350 size for some of your large print ideas. Printing PLA you can likely print at 250mm/sec++ with results better than the Creality large format printer you have. Just an idea anyway.
Massive thanks for sharing all these designs! I think i’ll try the ‘hexibox’ full size with PETG in the near future!
Side note, that horizontal banding actually looks pretty cool on that box shape 🧐
Hi, I'm always amazed of the quality of your videos, what lens and crop are you using?
I’ve been watching you for a wile and you know your stuff, more than I ever could gather.what is a good recipe for mids in a car door for cubic foot as there’s no basic footage in any of the Manuel’s I have. Basically want to shove a chuchero box in each door.
2 8” mid 2 6 1/2” mid and a horn. I know there’s a formula for using foam peanuts to measure cubic foot but I have nothing to go by.
Great video series! Could you comment on the use of servo control in subwoofers? What does that bring to the table? How does it change the enclosure design?
Also check the direct drive system. check the gears for evenness when rotating.
They look great ,, I actually like the ribbed effect , but understand its annoying if its not actually planned .
I'd bet they'd sound better if this was a laminated wood cabinet? As is, I think they sound a bit muted, maybe slightly boomy? I'm not sure how to describe. They don't have the clarity of a monitor. I'm listening on M-Audio M3-8s w/ stereo BX subwoofers.
You make some amazing builds!! Impressive engineering as always!
Amazing video as always! Great review of 3D Printer, great project of Studio Monitors and awesome commentary!!! I simply love your videos!
Ps. What is that last demo loop? It's awesome and perfect for testing subwoofers! :)
@@HexiBase Awesome :D! But is there any option to get it? For personal use only of course. :)
Totally would pay money for the complete track!
PS
To make the test more inclusive, played a song by Erra, Vanish Canvas
(Thinking it may be louder)
It also peaked at 100db
Noyyyissss!
Your process is Fantastic!
M
You make it hard not to get a printer and start making an enclosure for the work truck.
Have you done any comparisons with different materials? Something like the carbon reinforced stuffs.
The band around the hull you noticed is part of the design of the benchy. It aligns with the floor of the boat, all good printers will have it.
I have noticed that, since the video where you tested the acoustic properties of Pla vs woods, you have been using giroid infil. Have you tried to use cubic or an other tips that makes closed cells? Giroid has a specific propriety and is that it's all connected like a sponge or a fiber, if you make a hole on one side of the item and on other one on the oposit side you can blow air though it. I think this can severely affect the properties of sound dampening since its only a single bacume chamber instead of multiple small ones.
Great videos, I'm currently testing Markaudio drivers with a 3D printed enclosure hehe.
Are there other options for drivers? I can’t find the Fountech ones
What do you do with all the speakers and 3D printers once you're done showcasing?
Took me a minute to realize which is which. The one on the left is the messed up print. It's bass response is stronger, but it sounds like it is missing some highs in turn.
You have used one passive radiator of equal size to the driver, I thought you were meant to use double the area. Is this not right?
I wouldn't mind seeing what your take would be on headphones.
Fountain of knowledge...
Searching through your videos for one explaining how to read spectrum analyser wave results. Do you have one you can share a link?
I got this printer recently and just wanted to note most of these problems are gone and the only problem I have had is that it actually sticks to much to the build plate and can get kinda. Hard to get off so a blessing and a curse ig
Just came across your videos. Very nice. Do you have any links to hardware used?
Sounds great but the speakers should be towed in towards the listener (microphones). At least I'd like to hear it that way for comparison. I might drop the EQ altogether, even though the graphs make it appear to flatten the response, there's something missing in the midbass/midrange areas. Lotta bass and highs. Unless it's just a weird song / mix.
Those are super cool. It always impresses me how much bass extension you can get out of so little. In terms of drivers, vents, and box volume.
Also, I listened with my Samson sr850s through my phone, and the soundstaging by those seemed really impressive to me
Can you comment on infill density? I've seen your video comparing different material types, but you didn't do 100% infill. My understanding is that you want the densest, stiffest material. So other than cost and print time why wouldn't you do 100% infill? Thanks
I would take manual bed level knobs any darn day of the week.
man, would love a 2 way or 3 way setup u create, made the single driver speaker with the tang band driver for son, imaging is great, sound is great, except when excursion and highs are present, distortion becomes an issue and medium-high levels.