Orange Adventures (Part 1)
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- This has been my inaugural adventure with a resin printer, complete with a new project and a sound demo.
Homepage: hexibase.com/
Facebook: / hexibase
Instagram: / hexibase
Printables: www.printables...
Thingiverse: thingiverse.com...
SoundCloud: / hexibase
Patreon: / hexibase
Amazon Storefront: www.amazon.com...
The micro transmission line model can be downloaded at: www.thingivers...
Longer 3D Orange 30 Printer: amzn.to/2uQolS7
Longer 3D LK4 3D Printer: amzn.to/2YL9X8u
Tectonic 1 1/8" Speaker: www.parts-expr...
Sauder North Avenue Sofa Table: amzn.to/2th66op
Globe Electric Swing Arm Lamp: amzn.to/30nsrMZ
Sunlite Orange LED Bulb: amzn.to/2QSVJA7
20W UV Resin Curing Light: amzn.to/2ssVjHm
White USB Turntable: amzn.to/2Nsubj3
1 Liter Anycubic Clear Resin: amzn.to/36V9bce
1 Liter Anycubic Black Resin: amzn.to/3a9axCn
Reptor Print Removal Toolkit: amzn.to/2tlxf9N
OXO Glass Cointainer: amzn.to/3878ehe
Isopropyl Alcohol: amzn.to/2TsVM7u
Binding Posts: amzn.to/36Dsia7
Wire Connectors: amzn.to/36A8rZI
Soldering Station: amzn.to/38CYmNn
I don't know how many of your viewers I speak for here, but I would love to see you make a large transmission line subwoofer for home theater. Please like this comment to show you would like to see this happen! C'mon people!
@@HexiBase try to make it as simple and cheap as you can by the way...
@@nunayafb 😂
love to see one as awell
I would love to see a 10 inch sub 3d printed
@@steweyj6281 12 inch and up. 10 not good for home theater.
Thank you for recording, and showing us a sound profile! I'm so tired of techies giving subjective opinions of sound with imprecise words.
Yeah, this guy's proving his approach... You can't help smiling when he points out his binaural setup. "This is your left and this is your right speaker." 👏🏼🤔👍🏼👍🏼
I’ve been highly interested in the software that is being used to modele the frequency response. It seems to take into account the material, shape, etc. It really looks like a complete software.
I would like to know what is the name of the software used to make a simulation of your speaker design!
I was just about to comment this, it would make a great video
It's called Hexibase. You can purchase it at Nowhere On Earth.
@@supersteveenglish7340 you're very clever bro and very very funny you should be a comedian
@@braddsouza4 it's his own software. Constantly improving. It's unbelievable what he can do with it & how much he can account for.
HornResp is the best free enclosure sim....this guy has no software to sim the his line
What you can do to "glue" it together, is put a little of the resin on the joining surfaces.
You would do this after cleaning with alcohol and before final cure with the UV light.
After all this is done, you should paint it to prevent from "over-curing"
I have to say, despite the small audience you approach with your videos, you created one of the most amazing channels to watch. Everything you do is so profound, well planned and executed. You have myfull respect!
Very cool, I am glad I subscribed. I built some TL floor standing units that support a 10" woofer and a dome mid & tweet. That was 42 years ago. Each cabinet weighs 98Lbs.
An Omron calculator did the heavy lifting
I have a laser sla printer and I had issues you are having. Orientation is important, print at an angle not flat, though this matters on the surface area. Also, I found you MUST mix or shake up the resin very well right before you pour it into the vat. That makes a huge difference. I think the resin separates, if you keep pouring out un-mixed rasin it will get out of balance, chemically. Shake shake shake! I dig your videos!
This sounds like it could unmix even while it's printing hours long?
REDxFROG up & down motions into the liquid resin of the cured part will mix it again
This is pure gold to my senses. I chuckled at the Matrix cutaway.
😁👍
Great work! Hope you get the Longer Orange sorted out.
I briefly had an Orange 30 myself. I mostly had successful prints but didn't maximize the build volume. I returned it because I didn't like the touch screens manners and I didn't like the vat design. So I got the Epax X1. It was supposedly superior to other budget resin printers. I struggled greatly with this thing to get successful prints big and small. For my purposes which are generally larger, flatter, and more square than table top models these are generally used for I concluded resin printing just isn't for me. I badly wanted it to be though. Also I printed in my basement with ventilation and the smell still permeated the house. So I returned it also.
After I returned the epax looking back the Orange 30 was actually the superior design. The shroud is a joke but I'm talking the actual function. The led array is much better on the Orange 30. In fact Epax sells a similar one for their machines as an option that comes standard on the Orange 30. So with some tweaks and revisions the Orange 30 could be the budget resin champ imo.
One last thing, just use Chitubox. Dont mess with the Longer slicer. It's much to basic.
Where's part 2?
Neat small build, these would be great for my daughter's bedroom. Thanks for the great videos!
Any luck with part 2?
The print would have come out much better if oriented diagonally, as resin printer is not the strongest in printing flat surface.
try at least a 10 -15 degree shift so that the flat surfaces are not parallel to the build platform. also consider making sure the printer resin is warm, so it flows well between layers, if its cold in garage, put space heater , or move to ventilated bathroom.
Egh I'll stick with my thermoplastic printers LOL Between the small build area, toxic liquid resin, cleanup, temperature requirements and additional curing, it sounds like way to much hassle! Lol 😉
@@smartroadbiker As he pointed out, resin printers are better for things when you need insanely tiny details to show. He mentioned D&D mini's and those are usually around 28mm-32mm tall and have not really been all that great when printed with plastic printers. That's why having both types isn't a bad idea, especially as they are getting more affordable. Using tabletop gaming as an example, you use resin printers to print the miniatures, while plastic printers print the terrain. Depending on the level of detail needed, vehicles could be a combination of the two where plastic is used for the bulk of the model, but has resin bits for the more detailed spots.
The Monty Python reference is just amazing.
I'm honestly extremely intrigued in getting a standard 3D printer to design some proper enclosures for my bookshelf speakers. I've been making crappy subwoofer boxes for a few years, _trying_ to make the best of my knowledge, but I don't have any of the materials or tools to make a good set of enclosures for the speakers, and no equipment to test the performance. Having 2 massive, ghastly, unpainted MDF, hodge-podge boxes on my desk is not great, and I'm definitely not making the best use of the 20cm/8" subwoofer drivers in each of them. For reference, they're 3-way, with a small sealed upper enclosure for the midrange to give it a bit more "presence".
This channel is invaluable to DIY sound tinkerers, and is a wealth of knowledge to get into the more advanced ideas for speaker enclosures and getting the most out of the drivers in question. Needless to say, I'm intrigued how the resin box will go once you've got the replacement :)
Your mic setup to allow Accurate sound through for the listener is by far the best I’ve come across on youtube. I’m very tempted to print and toss one of these together for a small footprint shop radio.
Pity you did a model on that will barely fit on this sla printer from longer that doesn't seem to be working very well. I have an elegoo mars pro and the stl file will not fit within the build volume of my printer. Don´t get me wrong, it is a fantastic video and I wanted so bad to build this kind of speaker.
Could you please test the material PETG for its properties and how well it is suited for printing speakers?
Works linke pla just use higher infill if it is too light and sounds like tin
Oh boy I can definitely tell
Just found your channel today and ive already started to binge watch lol!
But i have to ask, has there been any update on sorting the printing issues?
Dude, I love how you take the time to go into the technical and scientific details - and your accuracy therein! We need more RUclipsrs like you!!
What's the influence of the materials of the casing? Are softer materials worse?
7:49
well well well, how the turntables...
Hi from Spain Pete! I really love your videos and I am always waiting for the next one to come out. I would really appreciate if you could answer my questions.
1- Is there any chance you could share the original 3D model so I can make a couple of mods to fit in some batteries on the side and make it a portable speaker?
2- Is there any mini bluetooth amp out there you could recommend for this drivers that could be small enough to make my portable speaker?
Thank you in advance,
Carlos.
Question....soooo, I’m super new to this. Got ideas, gonna build speakers. So I see speakers on parts express. Cabinet volume listed in description says
.19 ft3. If I put the numbers in the diy video audio website calculator it says .52 ft3. THEN I head over to speaker box lite, plug the numbers, and I get .30 ft3!! 🤦🏻♂️ what gives? Am I doing something wrong?
The problem you are seeing at the back of the prints are due to the 'semi-hardened' print still being flexible and quite thin-walled. You can simply add a second block to the print area that is sturdier that the thin-walled object, and that will keep the layers in line. Also it helps to actually add a couple of supports to the print itself, that you remove at the end.
And always wear a carbon filter mask when working with this stuff PLEASE! Never put a resin printer in a room without proper ventilation, or one that you actually live in.
Once again, an excellent video mate! 👌
Hi friend, which app do you use for modelate in 3D before to print in 3D printer?
Best luck from Chile
how do we calculate transmission line by the way
Been waiting for this content for weeks
You are. Such a Savage. When that mid range mid base treble graph came up I immediately said thank you and screenshotted
Then you called it out ""take a screenshot" lmao. As basic as this scale is, it's actually kinda hard to find as some who doesn't already understand the scale completely and what hz is considered what range
Who else took a screen shot 3:24... 😄
Ok, here goes mine. I'm sure everyone has their base 'test' cd; for me it is Enya's 1987 BBC release of 'the celts', NOT the bastardized 1991 WEA version. There are multiple tracks, but as far as my experience goes, track #14, 'dawn-y-dwr', is my go-to track. So far the only sub below $5,000 able to hit that note was the Muse model 18. I have absolutely no clue what freq. that note is, but that is my tester. I am not planning to buy an analyzer just to find that freq. I recently drove 50 miles to test the SVS 16-Ultra, and it would not hit that note; nor would the JL Audio f113 mk2. I'm not going to purchase a sub made in the 90's and expect it to perform for any extended period of time. All I know is that it had 2 10" woofers in a 2-inch thick cabinet and weighed 250 lbs. And it was quick as lightning!! Is there a way to replicate that? Thanks for listening.
HexiBase, do you mind sharing the critical dimensions of the enclosure? I would like to make a remixed version of your enclosure with a different form factor but still use the same acoustic structures (i.e. the cross sectional area of the T-line, the length, the volume of the cavity, etc)
Notice the $80 Class D amplifier. You don’t need a $1200 HiFi amplifier for quality sound
Hello, will it be sensefull to use these speakers with the 3" V2 printed subwoofer? You said the subwoofer can play to around 1,5-2khz. Since this t line has a resonance frequency at 650hz which sounds hollow would it make sense to cut them off at 700hz and use the subwoofer until 700hz. I know I will loose the stereo sound anyways...
Full Range Drivers w notch filters on a printed passive radiator box... somethin i just wanna see built :-)
I was planning on asking you how much you'd want to print one...
... but then you said "twelve hours" (+post processing)
So if you combine this video with the end of your isobaric loading video, could you make an even smaller t-line?
All i can say is HELL YEAH!
Any idea if the new Tectonic TEBM28C10-4/B is close enough to the A that this enclosure will work with it?
YES!!! A fellow Davinci Resolve User!!! High five @Hexibase!
I am looking into making a small bluetooth speaker and came across this small build and really liked the size of this speaker. I noticed in your video you hooked up the speakers in series and have a mono signal going into it. Does this enclosure still work if i hook up the speaker in left and right channels as a stereo speaker?
It would be nice if you could release the design file. I want to print this, but the connections on the front won't work for me. I see that someone mixed your file to put the inputs on the bottom, but he also changed the size of the line. I just want to move the inputs to the back.
This is so cool! Why did you go from 35mm diameter down to a 20mm diameter? What determines the optimum chamber length?
You could try using gyroid infill and filling the prints with epoxy or polyesther resin
Isnt that cute. She feels like she helped because she enjoys removing the pieces lol.
You scared the crap out of me when you covered up the vent then talked in my right ear. I was not expecting the talking wile listening to music.
I'm baffled, (no pun intended) why you have such nice equipment all just to run to a cheap little Dayton IC amp....??
Please make v.2 of this video ,
Friends if you want same then like so that he can make video on v2 for such small speaker
Id be so annoyed waiting that long just for it to fuck up every time 🤣
We all know that 612.2 nanometers is the best wavelength. If you know you know.
Taking a guess that the upper-range irregularities may be baffle step?
Hi boss. Made two sets of these speakers. Works rather well. Many thanks. Mike in Virginia Beach
I had actually taken a screenshot a moment before his suggestion. He knew. D:
SAME
this printer looks like too much work not to mention the money spent on the resin that was ruined....seems like its not worth the money
Really like your videos! Thank you so much for all the great detail, I'm trying to get into speaker design, and I can figure out what software you use to model response/material etc. What do you use and or reccomend?
Can these be stood up on end to be vertical? I need something that sounds great and can go next to monitor on a desk.
Can you show a tutorial for arta software for rs measurements
Ts measurements
I am always amazed at where PUBLIC DIY has reached, private DIY must easily be 10x
I use a zsn-pro for listen, and my cables are twisted and side changes
damn, those small speakers are impressive
@@HexiBase have you thought about printing some horn loaded mini speakers??? like this one and maybe do a comparison: like transmission line vs sealed vs bass reflex vs horn loaded
@@HexiBase a 3d printed TV sound bar would be great. What about some Chinese speakers for it?
kinda want them for my horrible sounding tv
@@leondantas You need to do a lot of processing on sound to make a soundbar sound right ))
@@leondantas tectonics are chinese speakers :)
Love these 3d printed speaker videos hope to see part 2 soon
Have you considered large scale fdm printing but using poured 2 part epoxy for the majority of the mass/structure? Basically you would model perimeters for all the positive space then pour to fill them. You could also fill with other pour able materials depending on the properties you wanted. 2 part urethane rubber, Portland cement, epoxy granite, etc.
Your Port needs a little foam inside to cut down on the "twangy plasticy sound," a little. Other than that I think the speakers & Design are a success with good sound!
It's just my honest opinion!👍
yooo can you get me a printer and ill sponsor your channel on mine, very often.
Surround sound system with these skip bose all-together
Just printed a set of these. An interesting experiment for sure, and for such puny speakers it’s impressive the sound you get out of them.
That being said I wouldn’t really recommend them, out of all the hexibox projects (I’ve printed several) these sound rather plasticky and there is a distinct tube sound to them. Still, the base extension is totally impressive. and I had a weekend of fun putting it all together, super worth it.
But if you’re gonna try just keep your expectations realistic; these drivers are super tiny, and quite cheap, I don’t think any enclosure will really save them from themselves.
Of course I could be wrong, and the error might be on my end. Regardless, thanks so much to Hexibass for the incredible content and sharing his work with us all. I bought and learned to 3D print because I wanted to try your projects out and it’s been such a fun/challenging journey.
Uh, this is interesting for a small under seat sub for a tiny car.
what is the stand your using on your krk monitors with that arm look sick
Do make a sell boxes for trucks I'm very interested if so
U bought the worst SLA printer there is .....get a elegoo mars
I know this is from a year ago but I don’t seem to see part 2?
Man....bummer.....these little drivers are not available anymore.
Wish someone sold these speaker enclosures for different sizes. 😕
The t-line needs to be much more narrow to get the compression for good bass. Just focus on sub bass.
@@HexiBase Have you tried it or just speculating? Just because specs say the speaker resonance fq is 120 dont mean you cant get a solid 40hz out of it. Most subs out there are played lower than their f3 anyways. You should try a smaller diameter port with the the same length. I guarantee you the bass will be louder. Forget about full range, make this thing pound hard. That's the beauty to a t-line aka long ass folded horn. You can get any speaker to bump hard.
Hey,
i really like your professionell speaker videos and i would ask you what software you are using to design your enclosure. I want to do my speakers too with a 3d printer(ender 3) but i dont know how to do a tongue and groove. With 123D Design its not possible. Could you tell me what designing software you are using?
Thanks!
Major difference when covering the vent at 13:20 .
I think ill download this and try printing it! Thanks. 🙂
How about Using mdf board instead of plastic ,
i wanna make headphones from scratch, any advice?
Bet it was more bass then a regular sub prob 8inch lol
(11:07) In my past (limited) experience measuring a couple of my speakers, I've had my microphone pointed directly AT them, whereas yours is pointed straight DOWN. Um...have I been cluelessly doing it wrong this entire time? :/
BTW, I just recently discovered your channel and am having a blast looking at your past videos! :)
What numbers did you calculate out for the "box" behind the drivers, the TL cross-section area and the line length? I work in imperial measures, but can deal with metric if that's what you have. I'd just like to compare with what my old QBasic programs calc out.
In the sub bass region, where most subwoofers seem to come into play, I’ve found that anything below 30 Hz or so is basically flutter. From around 30 Hz upward the sub bass region becomes musical. In my early attempts at building my own speakers I focused my attention on reaching all the way down to 20 Hz, but after I got my current system, which uses two two way speakers rated from 45 Hz up tp 23 kHz for the mains and 23 Hz up to about 250 Hz for the sub I found that the frequencies any loser than 28 to 30 Hz weren’t really pleasant and not used in music unless the musician is playing a Synthesizer. Then other Musician must be careful about the lower frequencies are used as the Flutter of the lowest audible frequencies can fatigue the listener’s ears. So now I focus on around 28 to 30 Hz for a full range loudspeaker design. Do you agree Pete?
Oh, and hey Sophie!
Watching your videos has inspired me to purchase a 3D printer! I love diy projects! Right now I'm building my 5.2 office sound system and I wish I had a 3D printer to print my woofer cones and tweeter grills! I'm using 49/64 plywood (didn't know that existed), wood glue, liquid nails,, and 20 year old and worn out hand tools! Glad I got cherry stain and clear coat!
New sub here. 3:29, How did you know I'm doing a "Screenshot"?! 😁
I am just so glad I saw your vids. Though I am not able to do what you just did, at least there is this spark in me that says I can do this in the coming days, with the designs that I have in mind, of course. Thanks! Great video/audio recording and editing by the way. Very clear and audible.
Whoever made the music, made it sound like a record being played backwards. I was more fixed on trying to figure that out than what the speakers sounded like. lol
Question for you, how would you personally go about designing a Mini Guitar Cabinet? Normally you can't use small speakers because, well tube amps tend to eat them, but I'd love to see what someone who knows what they're doing thinks. (This is for heavy distortion, not clean.)
Even though I have seen you mainly printing enclosures, I would be really interested in seeing you design and create a 2- or 3-way bookshelf speaker (from mdf or wood, sealed or ported, including crossover) - for us to reconstruct. I believe you have the knowledge and the experience to create something outstanding with an incredible value for the money. There are already quite a lot of plans out there, but only few authors are as trustworthy like you.
Same here, bught resin printer, got one or two succesful prints and then it's crap.
That's how these cheap resin printers are.
Also quality degradation at larger prints is due to lack of rigidity of such budget machines that are not designed to handle those forces and simply flex a lot.
Same as you, I just went back to FDM printer.
what if u change the air output at the back and put on a passive radiator on it will it increase the bass ??
front sorry
Did you ever get the replacement for part 2?
Awesome videos! I think as the frequency goes up, the 2 drivers playing same frequencies will become ragged: especially placed horizinally.
so.. can i use this enclosure for car subwoofer ?
Why does series connection reduce load?
Man. U should build speakers for big brands or find an investor and open your own brand. It will be successful move.
Moral of the story of this channel seems to be, manufacturer, test your demo unit before shipping it out for a review :D
2 of these and a blue tooth receiver though.
I helped my dad build a pair of speakers and low and behold he can only hear up to 7khz. All that good money spend on tweeters pooofff