Interesting, my dealership here says, bike completely level and warmed up and running. The bike needs to be level. And the lower oil sight glass line needs to have oil touching it. Once that's done your upper oil sight glass line will be perfect.
Hi. Wow that's interesting. Warm and up to temp OK, but while running! Makes no sense to me. I've never checked any oil level on any engine while running, car or bike. I'll double check my book and come back to ya. Thanks Tim.
I guess what they're saying is , as long as the bike has the minimum amount of oil to do everything a shared compartment does, i.e , pick up oil sump level inside the compartment and enough oil to properly oil the clutches and enough oil to lubricate cylinders and valve's then upper line will be correct. I was taught the upper line is the full line mark and anything below that isn't acceptable. People seem to think something below that line is operating range, if that was the case what would be the point of the two lines🤷 dealership would just say if see oil in the glass your good, but that's not what they say hence the minimum and maximum line's. lower line while running and upper line while not running, both to be checked while bike is level. Car's are designed to be checked while warm but resting for at least 5 minutes for best dipstick results check and wipe at least 3-5 time's.
I can tell you I'm fairly certain Mobil 1 4T 10W-40 synthetic oil caused my clutch plates to stick together and because of that the bike wouldn't shift. And yes it caused damage. I'm switching to actevo castrol, once I get the gear's installed. When I removed the plates I had to pry them apart in two different places. The rest of them we're fine. And they we're all well within spec and in perfect condition. So not really any reason for them to be stuck together.
Hi mate. It's something I've seen on the forums that fully synthetic will make the clutch slip. I ran fully synthetic in the J2 no problem and in the A1P no problem. Maybe I was just lucky or while that oil was in there I didn't push it. I'm gonna use semi now as I've heard so many people mentioning it that it's not worth the risk. Thanks Tim.
Excellent tutorial thank you 👋👋👋 I have same bike, same colour 2003 and I just bought it last week.
@@Dobzie795 Hi. Thanks for watching and the kind comments.
Great bikes, I love them.
Cheers Tim.
Just got a yellow zx6r. glad you made these videos looks like I’ll need em
Many congrats on the new bike. Glad you find videos helpful.
I'll be trying to make some more.
Thanks Tim.
The Castrol actevo I'm using is semi synthetic too.
Gold video
Interesting, my dealership here says, bike completely level and warmed up and running. The bike needs to be level. And the lower oil sight glass line needs to have oil touching it. Once that's done your upper oil sight glass line will be perfect.
Hi.
Wow that's interesting. Warm and up to temp OK, but while running! Makes no sense to me. I've never checked any oil level on any engine while running, car or bike.
I'll double check my book and come back to ya.
Thanks Tim.
I guess what they're saying is , as long as the bike has the minimum amount of oil to do everything a shared compartment does, i.e , pick up oil sump level inside the compartment and enough oil to properly oil the clutches and enough oil to lubricate cylinders and valve's then upper line will be correct. I was taught the upper line is the full line mark and anything below that isn't acceptable. People seem to think something below that line is operating range, if that was the case what would be the point of the two lines🤷 dealership would just say if see oil in the glass your good, but that's not what they say hence the minimum and maximum line's. lower line while running and upper line while not running, both to be checked while bike is level. Car's are designed to be checked while warm but resting for at least 5 minutes for best dipstick results check and wipe at least 3-5 time's.
I can tell you I'm fairly certain Mobil 1 4T 10W-40 synthetic oil caused my clutch plates to stick together and because of that the bike wouldn't shift. And yes it caused damage.
I'm switching to actevo castrol, once I get the gear's installed. When I removed the plates I had to pry them apart in two different places. The rest of them we're fine. And they we're all well within spec and in perfect condition. So not really any reason for them to be stuck together.
Hi mate.
It's something I've seen on the forums that fully synthetic will make the clutch slip. I ran fully synthetic in the J2 no problem and in the A1P no problem. Maybe I was just lucky or while that oil was in there I didn't push it.
I'm gonna use semi now as I've heard so many people mentioning it that it's not worth the risk.
Thanks Tim.