Answer to common comments: 1. The 2x4 legs won't settle much here. Our red clay doesn't move much once it's settled, and this is a high point of the yard so it drains well and never gets saturated. 2. All wood was pressure treated, rated for ground contact, so rot is many, many years away. 3. There is a small air gap between the walls and the side of the house. 4. The garage (not temperature controlled) is on the other side of that exterior wall.
All that weight on a few 2x4 points and it's going to settle no matter what kind of soil it's on. $20 of 12x12 concrete pavers would improve your build 100%. I sorry but it seems more and more of your big builds you end up trying to justify your errors after the fact.
Im more curious on the roof "Vents" if the wind/rain/snow is coming the right way it would blow those vents open and allow the elements inside. Is there a plan to possibly correct that? or are you not worried that could happen ?
Hi Bobby, great demonstration. WARNING to viewers, after just 10 years, many of the polycarbonate panels require replacement. I wish there was a longer-lasting material for this purpose. Is there something that can be done to extend the life of that material? Thanks.
Yes there is… you can do the same thing with glass. Just make sure when using glass, that you take into account, the roof vent system… you will want it properly framed and a hinge system installed for the framed glass opening, as well as a proper securing system to ensure the “roof windows” close and seal correctly. I built this exact projuct using glass about 12 years ago and I have yet to experience Any rot, mold, or failure of any panels. I got All of my glass at Either the ReStore, or Habitat for Humanity, for pennies on the dollar in costs… total project cost for my leanto greenhouse, was $350 bucks for wood, glass and caulking…
Cover with large bubble... bubble wrap in the winter or rainy cold weather and put the bubble side facing the greenhouse panels. You can buy greenhouse clear strong tape to join the pieces together and use for cracks.
@@AleaumeAnders yeah especially when using 2x4, 4x4 would have given a better footing. Those 2x4 are gonna sink right in. It would have been easy enough to place small cement pylons under it. There's also no french drain, so the "clay doesn't move much once it's settled" will retain water and speed up rot and topside erosion. The framing was done nicely and the coroplast is a nice touch, though I would have left the film on the roof parts to help decrease excessive heat. Don't get me started on the vents that are going to blow open with the first big gust of wind and drench the inside
People, don't do this. Everything in this greenhouse is excellent except the floor. I don't care what sort of wood product you use, this will be a rotten mess with infestations of bugs and disease all through that flooring. Just use gravel on top of the natural ground, it would be cheaper and easier as well.
He also failed to kill the grass beneath the floor, which is likely to result in ‘weedeating’ inside the greenhouse as it comes up that back wall. Also, even if the wood floor performs well, the grooves are running the wrong way for easy sweeping. But the roof vents were the most serious mistake.
Thats what I was thinking also. Always have a good foundation..that's even in the scripture lol. Never put wood on direct ground just a termite disaster waiting to happen .buzzzzzzzz big X :)
@@gregfutrelle1396 "As they say on The East Coast" It's Salt Treat ' WTFIT? There is no such thing as "Salt Treat"? It's preasu treated unless it came from Japan and was submerged underwater!! ".
Love the concept. Definitely will use pea gravel for floor for drainage. Love the plexiglass panels. Will make mine 6x4. Being a Lowe's Pro allows me to have all materials cut to actual sizes needed. I like using screws instead of nails. Thanks for this video.
Question: it’s been 2 years since this greenhouse was built. Could you do a look back to it; listing how it is today, what would you change to make things better or ... As always, thanks for sharing this video content. Trusting that you and your families enjoyed a great thanksgiving holiday. Cheers...
I honestly would not go with plywood and 2x4’s on the floor. I would build the initial floor frame with 4x4’s and the floor with deck boards (treated or composite). I would highly recommend grading though. Take the top soil out and put down gravel (preferably limestone or bank fill) and pack it in. Thirdly I’d install a drip ledge along the roofline and Z channel where the greenhouse paneling meets the wainscoting. I don’t know anything about the corrugated plastic but make sure the plastic is uv radiation resistant.
@@Zootycoonman223 4x4s?? why?? maybe 2x6s but 4x4 doesnt make any sense for a floor joist - not from an engineering perspective - better yet, maybe just use pavers
@@Zootycoonman223 I would actually just build the floor joists and fill in with gravel. the floor is inviting critters to live under, since it will be very warm.
2 года назад+1
@@KatBurnsKASHKA Covering the joists in gravel would encourage them to hold moisture and rot... Great idea...
I Like To Make Stuff you went to all the trouble of trying to level off the floor but you chose to use a tiny footprint of a 2x4 to support ALL of that weight. The weight of the framing, the planters, soil, water, snow, etc. CAN NOT be supported by such a small footprint. The RIGHT way to do this would have been to use 4x4 TREATED posts for the leveling feet, and plant those on top of concrete patio blocks or deck blocks to distribute the weight. That greenhouse is going to sink into the ground when it gets wet because you have far too much weight being spread over far too little surface area. You say to check codes for high wind areas but you clearly didn’t check the codes for this type of construction. Follow the codes for building a deck and you’ll be in good shape. Also, the wall framing is screwed up. You have ALL of the weight of the structure above the floor being supported by the shear strength of the nails you used to attach the vertical wall members. Unless those screws are stainless or hot dip galvanized then they’re going to rust and break. Wall members should NEVER rely on nails for their load bearing strength. You should have built your floor and then nailed the vertical wall structure ON TOP of the floor, like a REAL framing is done. This is a recipe for disaster and is not the way to build a lasting structure. Looks good enough for you to cash your sponsorship check, but that’s all. In a couple years that thing will be falling apart because the moisture from the greenhouse will have rusted away the only thing that’s holding it together: the screws. Massive fail.
g1mpster this is the second vid I've seen by this guy- complete utter incompetence. And you can tell he doesn't give two shits either. Lowe's should be embarrassed...
also insects, also you should have used blocks to level the building which would provide bester support for the floor, instead of stakes which makes it a permanent building. Then don't you need a permit,where I live you would.
Great job!!! thinking of building two of them and hooking together? opposite Lean-to .. But my question. would it be better to install two fans? one on each side of the greenhouse? to circulate the air? setup on a thermostat, when it's to hot to turn on the fans? when cool enough to turn them off? or are the vents on the top. really necessary to install? I'm in Southern Arizona..
I built this almost exactly about 10 years ago for my neighbor. Nice little old lady. She uses it everyday of the year. Have had zero trouble out of it. The only thing that has to be replaced was a piece of the siding because (i also mow her lawn) i was cutting her grass and I hit a rock and it shot through the plastic. Everything works just fine if you know what you're doing.
@Brad Kendall it depends on where u live, some soil will make a building settle like crazy, some won’t, and by that point it’s not really soil. Probably a good mix of rock or clay
At about the 9:30 mark, the guys are installing a strip of plastic about 3 inches wide vertically between the panels. Is this necessary? And does it go under the panels or over?
Two things I would have done differently. I would have framed in the roof vents to prevent a high wind from ripping the vents off. As they are, there's no way to latch them closed. I also would have painted the framing to the color of the house before installing the clear panels to prevent the wood from turning gray with age or at least stained it first.
Concerns I have with this are: 1) The vinyl siding will bucket after a few seasons from the heat. 2) Those little 2x4 feed will sink into the ground. 3) the wood will rot (Pressure Treated or Not) on the feet and underneath due to moisture and lack of ventilation 4) It's still going to blow away - even if its tied to the house 5) The HOA will make you take it down 6) You should have sloped the floor and had drain holes as you will get standing water in it. 7) Mold and slime will grow on the siding inside the greenhouse due to heat and humidity and water getting in between the roof and siding. 8) Critters
I recently helped build a 96-ft high tunnel. If you use aluminum tape on the top and paper tape on the bottom of the polycarbonate sheets, it keeps bugs out and allows moisture to drain from the corrugated structure of the sheets
@@juancanobarrera Yeah, if he can create a thermal break...even better waterproof the wall and create a thermal break. It's cheap and saves $$$ in having to repair it later when done wrong.
@@stevenbryant4718 If it is a traditional brick structure then the brick is just a façade with weep holes that draw air. The brick on new homes is attached to the sheathing by little metal tabs and isn't even structural. If it is traditional and you slap a greenhouse on it you will get moisture and mold on the backside of the wall. People do it, and people live with mold. I guess it's up for the experts as to how bad it really is to have mold in your living area. I'm not really sure what their consensus is today.
Looks reasonably good BUT sorry it's not going to last . Also you mentioned that you weren't going to be attaching it to the house ? What about the lag screws your running through the wall ? That qualifies as being attached to the structure . All in all it looks good but you could have taken the time to weatherize the structure using flashing and caulking where needed . Even if the ground is clay ,a 2X4 footprint will dig into the soil in no time at all . At this point I'd at least put a piece of 1/8 sheet of stainless steel under the posts to spread the load out and protect the wood a little more so it doesn't rot so easily . Just a thought .If it were me I would have anchored the structure by putting the posts into concrete thereby avoiding the attachment to the house but to each their own I guess .
Jesse Sanchez It doesn’t need it. A greenhouse doesn’t need to be airtight or even watertight. It’s just a space that takes advantage of solar gain to give your seedlings a head start.
For higher wind areas, use T posts and use bailing wire run through holes drilled through the studs and wire the studs to T the T posts. You could also use diagonal braces anchored to flat foundation stakes
just word of advice for anyone new to diy construction: few things will dull your blade faster than running it in dirt. Cut on saw horses or a foam insulation board.
Really Cool, thanks for sharing. Have you ever had trouble with rot in the 2x4's that are in direct contact with the ground? What about laying a foundation of gravel for drainage?
no sealant between wood and plastic ? how are you planning keeping the rain out? also those vents at top are going to flop around and get torned in a high wind!
I normally use concrete blocks dug into the ground to level up my base as wood touching the ground rots so fast. Great video 👍 cant wait to get mine finished.
I was thinking the same thing. This construction is going to rot from the base as the exposed wood sucks up humidity and water from the ground. They should have used some concrete blocks as a foundation.
One year I built a shed and checked with my towns building inspector about meetung code. First thing he said was "how big is it?" Turns about if you build a shed or similar under a certain square footage and height, it doesnt matter. Mine wasnt so I had to do it, but it was still interesting to know.
lol putting wood in direct contact with the ground. Even treated doesn't mean it won't rot.Putting some small concrete piers would have taken seconds especially if you're that sure it wouldn't settle much. Amateur hour all the way around.
Yes, we were sweaty, it was a thousand degrees outside and a billion degrees inside that oven. Anthony beat me to the first comment. I will not stand for such atrocities.
Will be interested to hear how it works out for you. My soon to be wife wants a greenhouse as well, so i may be contacting you for lessons learned after your wife uses it a while.
@@JoshMakesStuff Jennifer mentioned that some have roll-up sides for the summer months to allow better air flow. She was skeptical if the vents y'all put on top would be enough for summer time.
Should have closed off the back with some kind of vapor barrier... parking that thing up against the siding without one is going to let very warm and humid air infiltrate the siding and cool and condense - especially if the garage is unheated in the winter, and create rot.
About 10-15 dollars a sq.ft. for materials...6x12=720 to over a thousand. Depending on location and place of purchase. And if you build it correctly, it will cost even more.
Random thought- read a book on green house construction first. Then you might go with real self opening vents, a good mounting approach for the twin wall plastic so that ‘that expensive plastic’ lasts a really long time or maybe just a floor that retains heat (that’s what green houses are all about).
An aside, it's kind of funny that half the comments are complaining that he built a floor at all, and you're complaining that he didn't build a good enough one. I think a lot of the variety of complaints come from the fact the everyone lives in different environments and has different goals in what they would use a green house for.
apparently don't do the vents the way they did it or install the wood floor, use vents that use an arm with filled with wax( when wax heats up, flaps open) Use gravel instead of wood floor and don't lean against house without having the green house closed off
I've spent 15 years in construction and this wasn't really completed to weatherproofing standards, that trough that was created will build up with water and rot. Guaranteed 5 - 10 years from now that floor will be rotten and the skirt that was placed around the outside. Especially since it is made out of fibre board, that stuff loves to absorb water. I noticed a comment that said to place on gravel for drainage, great idea and better price point. Another thing to consider is using deck blocks or patio stones. Always start with a level surface, don't be lazy. These are just some things to consider if think about using this method. Other than that, it looks really nice!
Interesting... he mentioned that they didn't want to level the grade. Then they were stuck with making a very expensive wood floor with siding?! Pressure treated or not its gonna rot due to moisture and water spills. He should have graded the ground and put a durable attractive and inexpensive stone floor down
@@bradley3549 he said the floor was made of a composite material so I figured it was just textured that way. Or maybe plywood is a composite material and I didn't know that.
@@nathan-fh8hp It's composite siding laid on top of plywood. Pressure treated plywood at least. Plywood is technically a composite - composite materials are just things made from two or more different substrates (like glue and wood.) Never the less, a plywood floor a greenhouse just sounds gross to me.
Bummer that your covered the floor with wood bc they could've grew nice plants directly in the soil. The way you did it makes you lose a ton of space. It's more of a nursery than a greenhouse. Nice build tho
What if the soil is frosted or frozen? Guess you just don't use it, but the earth is also a huge thermal mass that will suck the heat out of the greenhouse.Isn't a nursery just a specific function of a greenhouse which is used to nurse young plants? And a greenhouse is a structure which uses translucency to allow and hold in the suns heat? So the more effective the heat holding the greener the house; yeah?I mean, no floor might be good depending; to each their own... but is the floor a "bummer"? Not one bit.
If they own the place that's a great idea!!! But if your renting you might run into the problem I have. Land lord does not like in ground plants. Be had to rip up to many gardens, so no unground plants for me. Just a thought 🙂
@@nicholas3354 Having exposed moist soil and the foundation insulated to frost depth would allow the excess daytime heat to be captured within the soil then released during the night. Heat absorbed by the soil is not "lost", but re-radiated to the greenhouse interior during periods without sunshine..
I use to love watching your videos because of the detail you put into your projects. But lately every video you make of larger projects seem to be full of cut corners and ehhh it works. It just feels like you can't be bothered to do it correct.
I'm no expert, but I think no floor is viable; yet there are advantages to the floor, both aesthetic and also sheltering the greenhouse from the climate. In winter the ground is very chilling; for instance, there is a winter wilderness survival tactic where one situates an elevated place or else an insulating barrier (such as leaves) between themselves and the ground so that the ground doesn't suck all the heat out of them.
I like the simple straightforward build, but I'd like to see how this behaves in heavy rain, those cut-out flaps with no jint at all and no water barrier where the roof meets the wall. Depending on how one uses a greenhouse a few leaks here and there might no t be an issue but I'd go with some kind of camping car window vent for the top vent, with a silicone joint, and waterproof membrane to stop water from running down the house wall. And a little add-on that's nice for anyone with a greenhouse, a gutter that feeds a water collector, to water the plants, even heat them if you put it inside(black tank heats up in the sun, and reeases heat at night )
Why would you people responding to Smelly Goat Acres expect them to help you design a structure for free? RUclips is interesting because often you have uneducated, ignorant, or even liars presenting material as if they truly understand it and often don't admit that to the viewer. I'm not a hair stylist but I could read product labels and try a few things out and post a video teaching you how to but is that really good advise? A professional may get queesy watching my video.
@Sarah Williams Id build the walls on the ground and stand them up. I wouldn’t have wood sitting directly on the ground. I would be putting end cut on every 2x4, same as any deck. Research flat earth
So I might have more questions but I don't want to forget. Wouldn't the airlines and air compressors be the most important buys. I only the the nail gun directed the pressure... I get it puts the nail in.. but I had a air compressor that didn't have enough pressure to drive the nail fully... I guess my question is, how do I know what psi for what type of wood is needed for complete nail drive?
Answer to common comments:
1. The 2x4 legs won't settle much here. Our red clay doesn't move much once it's settled, and this is a high point of the yard so it drains well and never gets saturated.
2. All wood was pressure treated, rated for ground contact, so rot is many, many years away.
3. There is a small air gap between the walls and the side of the house.
4. The garage (not temperature controlled) is on the other side of that exterior wall.
why do you use a closed bottom? You can plant plants in the ground. I do it like this and we also have clay soil
Can you do a bits video on nails and nailers?
All that weight on a few 2x4 points and it's going to settle no matter what kind of soil it's on. $20 of 12x12 concrete pavers would improve your build 100%. I sorry but it seems more and more of your big builds you end up trying to justify your errors after the fact.
Im more curious on the roof "Vents" if the wind/rain/snow is coming the right way it would blow those vents open and allow the elements inside. Is there a plan to possibly correct that? or are you not worried that could happen ?
I would still put 12x12 pavers under the legs... settling is settling I don't care what kind of clay you have....
Hi Bobby, great demonstration. WARNING to viewers, after just 10 years, many of the polycarbonate panels require replacement. I wish there was a longer-lasting material for this purpose. Is there something that can be done to extend the life of that material? Thanks.
Yes there is… you can do the same thing with glass. Just make sure when using glass, that you take into account, the roof vent system… you will want it properly framed and a hinge system installed for the framed glass opening, as well as a proper securing system to ensure the “roof windows” close and seal correctly. I built this exact projuct using glass about 12 years ago and I have yet to experience Any rot, mold, or failure of any panels. I got All of my glass at Either the ReStore, or Habitat for Humanity, for pennies on the dollar in costs… total project cost for my leanto greenhouse, was $350 bucks for wood, glass and caulking…
@@preprebelactual amazing ! How did you get the glass fixed to the structure ?
you can use Corrugated Fiberglass Roof Panel, we had them in my parent's house, they were functionally there for 40 years.
Cover with large bubble... bubble wrap in the winter or rainy cold weather and put the bubble side facing the greenhouse panels. You can buy greenhouse clear strong tape to join the pieces together and use for cracks.
Just curious why you chose to have a full wooden floor rather than use pea gravel so water can easily drain away after you've watered the plants.
Not to mention the geothermal value of bare ground
@@timothygreer188 Plus wont the wood on soil rot quickly while it would dry off quickly if placed on gravel?
@@AleaumeAnders yeah especially when using 2x4, 4x4 would have given a better footing. Those 2x4 are gonna sink right in. It would have been easy enough to place small cement pylons under it. There's also no french drain, so the "clay doesn't move much once it's settled" will retain water and speed up rot and topside erosion. The framing was done nicely and the coroplast is a nice touch, though I would have left the film on the roof parts to help decrease excessive heat. Don't get me started on the vents that are going to blow open with the first big gust of wind and drench the inside
Here's a great video from Lowes that shows you how to do that: How to Build a Greenhouse ruclips.net/video/Bbibe0yuiew/видео.html
Great idea❗
People, don't do this. Everything in this greenhouse is excellent except the floor. I don't care what sort of wood product you use, this will be a rotten mess with infestations of bugs and disease all through that flooring. Just use gravel on top of the natural ground, it would be cheaper and easier as well.
coffeebuzzz i want to do brick floor
He also failed to kill the grass beneath the floor, which is likely to result in ‘weedeating’ inside the greenhouse as it comes up that back wall. Also, even if the wood floor performs well, the grooves are running the wrong way for easy sweeping. But the roof vents were the most serious mistake.
You should be digging and putting in geothermal piping for free heat, cooling and humidity control anyways.
Thats what I was thinking also. Always have a good foundation..that's even in the scripture lol. Never put wood on direct ground just a termite disaster waiting to happen .buzzzzzzzz big X :)
@@gregfutrelle1396 "As they say on The East Coast" It's Salt Treat ' WTFIT?
There is no such thing as "Salt Treat"? It's preasu treated unless it came from Japan and was submerged underwater!! ".
Love the concept.
Definitely will use pea gravel for floor for drainage. Love the plexiglass panels. Will make mine 6x4. Being a Lowe's Pro allows me to have all materials cut to actual sizes needed.
I like using screws instead of nails.
Thanks for this video.
Nice greenhouse, but just curious why you put the vent at the bottom facing out? I would want to be able to close or open them from the inside.
Question: it’s been 2 years since this greenhouse was built. Could you do a look back to it; listing how it is today, what would you change to make things better or ... As always, thanks for sharing this video content. Trusting that you and your families enjoyed a great thanksgiving holiday. Cheers...
I honestly would not go with plywood and 2x4’s on the floor. I would build the initial floor frame with 4x4’s and the floor with deck boards (treated or composite). I would highly recommend grading though. Take the top soil out and put down gravel (preferably limestone or bank fill) and pack it in. Thirdly I’d install a drip ledge along the roofline and Z channel where the greenhouse paneling meets the wainscoting. I don’t know anything about the corrugated plastic but make sure the plastic is uv radiation resistant.
I can guarantee, since been taken down! As there was so many flaws in this build. It was a neat project, but I guarantee it didn't last.
@@Zootycoonman223 4x4s?? why?? maybe 2x6s but 4x4 doesnt make any sense for a floor joist - not from an engineering perspective - better yet, maybe just use pavers
@@Zootycoonman223 I would actually just build the floor joists and fill in with gravel. the floor is inviting critters to live under, since it will be very warm.
@@KatBurnsKASHKA Covering the joists in gravel would encourage them to hold moisture and rot... Great idea...
Nice job but it seems odd to not set the frame onto cement blocks or some sort of foundation ?
You certainly could, but I don't think it's absolutely necessary.
I Like To Make Stuff you went to all the trouble of trying to level off the floor but you chose to use a tiny footprint of a 2x4 to support ALL of that weight. The weight of the framing, the planters, soil, water, snow, etc. CAN NOT be supported by such a small footprint. The RIGHT way to do this would have been to use 4x4 TREATED posts for the leveling feet, and plant those on top of concrete patio blocks or deck blocks to distribute the weight. That greenhouse is going to sink into the ground when it gets wet because you have far too much weight being spread over far too little surface area. You say to check codes for high wind areas but you clearly didn’t check the codes for this type of construction. Follow the codes for building a deck and you’ll be in good shape. Also, the wall framing is screwed up. You have ALL of the weight of the structure above the floor being supported by the shear strength of the nails you used to attach the vertical wall members. Unless those screws are stainless or hot dip galvanized then they’re going to rust and break. Wall members should NEVER rely on nails for their load bearing strength. You should have built your floor and then nailed the vertical wall structure ON TOP of the floor, like a REAL framing is done. This is a recipe for disaster and is not the way to build a lasting structure. Looks good enough for you to cash your sponsorship check, but that’s all. In a couple years that thing will be falling apart because the moisture from the greenhouse will have rusted away the only thing that’s holding it together: the screws. Massive fail.
Yes, it should, otherwise it will take just a decade for the moisture to ruin the whole construction
@@g1mpster This ^
g1mpster this is the second vid I've seen by this guy- complete utter incompetence. And you can tell he doesn't give two shits either. Lowe's should be embarrassed...
Aren't you afraid the bottom will rot because of the moisture?
No, it's all pressure treated lumber.
i'd be more worried of it sinking after it rains for days on end.
@@cmdraftbrn If it's worth doing it's worth doing right. At the least put that structure on concrete posts bases 🤦♂️
also insects, also you should have used blocks to level the building which would provide bester support for the floor, instead of stakes which makes it a permanent building. Then don't you need a permit,where I live you would.
@@cwadub Or at least runners that go the full length of the greenhouse to spread the load out
Awesome video, great fun to watch!
Incredible job! The final result looks so professional, and you made it seem so achievable for beginners. Thanks for sharing!
All that Lowe's lumber, and not a single warped stud?
They didn't show you the 45 minutes they spent picking the good ones out of the pile.
@@blacksabbath222 All our top grade lumber is bowed, twisted, crowned and warped. Oh ya, also knotted and waned. I detest the filthy garbage!!
Lmao! 😂
I was told many yrs ago the state and municipalities got choice of all the first run stuff .
Treated lumber is normally straighter than just your 2x4
How did you keep the vent flaps secure when they are down?
What is the “tent” at 4:56 used with the miter - I would like to get one!!
Cynthia appleget Saw dust catcher
i loved how simple this was. i want to make a mini version for my seedlings. Thank you!
Just wondering what is sealing and water proofing the plastic roof sheets
To show you the power of flex tape, I sawed this roof in half!
Is this the real FLEX TAPE?
i was just going to comment "FLEX TAPE!" but this is better
THAT'S A LOT OF DAMAGE!
hahahahaha, tha'ts awesome comment and great sale. SOLD!
not. I don't trust flextape, just sayin'
One word exzelerating 😀👍
The fact that you put it against the wall, would that promote mold under the wall cover?
yes It will be constantly filled with condensation.
2021 and I’m looking at that wood like it’s gold!!!
It's 2024. And it IS gold.
Great job!!! thinking of building two of them and hooking together? opposite Lean-to .. But my question. would it be better to install two fans? one on each side of the greenhouse? to circulate the air? setup on a thermostat, when it's to hot to turn on the fans? when cool enough to turn them off? or are the vents on the top. really necessary to install? I'm in Southern Arizona..
Nice workshop! I'm jealous!
I’m building one now on a smaller scale (6x8), hopefully it turns out as nice as yours. Thanks for sharing this.
So, you replace this every year when you replant?
ROFL!!
Those feet are going to settle into the ground with all of that weight, should of at least put it on cinder blocks to give it a chance.
Could have bought some tubes and a bag or two of concrete for some footings.
I built this almost exactly about 10 years ago for my neighbor. Nice little old lady. She uses it everyday of the year. Have had zero trouble out of it. The only thing that has to be replaced was a piece of the siding because (i also mow her lawn) i was cutting her grass and I hit a rock and it shot through the plastic. Everything works just fine if you know what you're doing.
@Brad Kendall it depends on where u live, some soil will make a building settle like crazy, some won’t, and by that point it’s not really soil. Probably a good mix of rock or clay
rofl ya I just said same thing to myself as I was watching.
lol, no it won't! Not even maybe.
At about the 9:30 mark, the guys are installing a strip of plastic about 3 inches wide vertically between the panels. Is this necessary? And does it go under the panels or over?
You should leave the white sheeting for the roof so you don't cook the plants in the afternoon. The sides are fine for clear.
Still doing an amazing job!
Two things I would have done differently. I would have framed in the roof vents to prevent a high wind from ripping the vents off. As they are, there's no way to latch them closed. I also would have painted the framing to the color of the house before installing the clear panels to prevent the wood from turning gray with age or at least stained it first.
4:28 - Nice use of lining the nails up with the beat!! 👍
The little things which most don't notice, but which add to the overall quality
It happens all over the video, was just going to comment on it at 3:10. I'm glad I'm not the only one that appreciates that kind of stuff.
😉👌
Concerns I have with this are:
1) The vinyl siding will bucket after a few seasons from the heat.
2) Those little 2x4 feed will sink into the ground.
3) the wood will rot (Pressure Treated or Not) on the feet and underneath due to moisture and lack of ventilation
4) It's still going to blow away - even if its tied to the house
5) The HOA will make you take it down
6) You should have sloped the floor and had drain holes as you will get standing water in it.
7) Mold and slime will grow on the siding inside the greenhouse due to heat and humidity and water getting in between the roof and siding.
8) Critters
Some of your points are unavoidable with any green house
Building code dictates subflooring is allowed to be no thinner than 3/4 inch
@Luwdig Van Mozart not true, but at that point they can become expensive
I recently helped build a 96-ft high tunnel. If you use aluminum tape on the top and paper tape on the bottom of the polycarbonate sheets, it keeps bugs out and allows moisture to drain from the corrugated structure of the sheets
@@sukt00 doesn't matter if there is an HOA or not, because the county has building codes regardless that have to be followed
Making a green house. Very cool, man.
Good idea on the vent on the end
Don't attach a greenhouse to your conditioned home. The high humidity will cause issues from mold to rot.
What if he had added a layer of the coroplast rather than just use the wall for the home? Would that help?
@@juancanobarrera Yeah, if he can create a thermal break...even better waterproof the wall and create a thermal break. It's cheap and saves $$$ in having to repair it later when done wrong.
brick
@@stevenbryant4718 If it is a traditional brick structure then the brick is just a façade with weep holes that draw air. The brick on new homes is attached to the sheathing by little metal tabs and isn't even structural. If it is traditional and you slap a greenhouse on it you will get moisture and mold on the backside of the wall. People do it, and people live with mold. I guess it's up for the experts as to how bad it really is to have mold in your living area. I'm not really sure what their consensus is today.
its against the unconditioned garage wall.
Looks reasonably good BUT sorry it's not going to last . Also you mentioned that you weren't going to be attaching it to the house ? What about the lag screws your running through the wall ? That qualifies as being attached to the structure .
All in all it looks good but you could have taken the time to weatherize the structure using flashing and caulking where needed . Even if the ground is clay ,a 2X4 footprint will dig into the soil in no time at all . At this point I'd at least put a piece of 1/8 sheet of stainless steel under the posts to spread the load out and protect the wood a little more so it doesn't rot so easily . Just a thought .If it were me I would have anchored the structure by putting the posts into concrete thereby avoiding the attachment to the house but to each their own I guess .
I love staying to the end for the bloopers.
That is really nice greenhouse.
I like how the nail gun went with the music. Nice touch!
Just curious,why wasn't any caulking used? Good video.
Jesse Sanchez It doesn’t need it. A greenhouse doesn’t need to be airtight or even watertight. It’s just a space that takes advantage of solar gain to give your seedlings a head start.
I’m not a member but yet I can watch it 😬
Me too
Matthew Ward follow me, thank you.
Soeep follow me, thank you 👍🏻
For higher wind areas, use T posts and use bailing wire run through holes drilled through the studs and wire the studs to T the T posts. You could also use diagonal braces anchored to flat foundation stakes
Very nice job 👍... I want one
Very professional, thank you.
I’d be concerned about giving subterranean termites a direct path from the ground to the siding of the house.
That's the purpose of the PT material
@@bobg.3206 every time you make a cut into PT. you have to retreat the cuts or insects and rot will happen
not to mention the mouse and rats the will move in underwater the floor he installed
ecotourism.
just word of advice for anyone new to diy construction: few things will dull your blade faster than running it in dirt. Cut on saw horses or a foam insulation board.
Really Cool, thanks for sharing. Have you ever had trouble with rot in the 2x4's that are in direct contact with the ground? What about laying a foundation of gravel for drainage?
Ain’t nobody got time for that!
no sealant between wood and plastic ? how are you planning keeping the rain out? also those vents at top are going to flop around and get torned in a high wind!
Does this type of clear plastic sheeting filter out any of the Sun’s full spectrum rays in the way that Low E Glass does?
I normally use concrete blocks dug into the ground to level up my base as wood touching the ground rots so fast. Great video 👍 cant wait to get mine finished.
These guys are incompetent & wasteful
I was thinking the same thing. This construction is going to rot from the base as the exposed wood sucks up humidity and water from the ground. They should have used some concrete blocks as a foundation.
Can you do a Bits video on "Checking with your local code."
One year I built a shed and checked with my towns building inspector about meetung code. First thing he said was "how big is it?" Turns about if you build a shed or similar under a certain square footage and height, it doesnt matter. Mine wasnt so I had to do it, but it was still interesting to know.
@@modelmanjohn that varies state to state
Someone hire Matt Risinger to inspect that "green" house.
Vincent Harry @forby is a genius and does some amazing edits
Congrats I am the 90st like
Love the chop saw tent for containing the saw dust!
Great idea. Love it
Hi- cool- I would suggest roofing vents with vent closers but that added cost.
lol putting wood in direct contact with the ground. Even treated doesn't mean it won't rot.Putting some small concrete piers would have taken seconds especially if you're that sure it wouldn't settle much. Amateur hour all the way around.
ah yes the required "I think he did one small detail wrong so he is an idiot" comment
1:15 There’s a Belgian number plate in Josh’s shop 👌🏻👊🏻🇧🇪
I saw that too. Also from Belgium???
Christofix - DIY Projects Yes 👌🏻 West-Vlaanderen
@@Bossie- leuk Je hier te zien, oost vlaanderen hier op de grens met west vlaanderen vlak bij oudenaarde
He lived there once
I would love to see you do a butterfly house.
What do you think about Earth Ships and the use of thermal mass ?
Very nice greenhouse!!!
0:22 "It's not going to be attached to the main house...." Then attaches it to the main house.
😁
You have to go outside in the bushes to adjust the vents, not well thought out. Also what keeps the wind from blowing up the roof vents?
I absolutely love it!!! It’s more like DIT though (Do It Together) 😂😂
Very nice. Love it!
Love it 😁👌🏼
Yes, we were sweaty, it was a thousand degrees outside and a billion degrees inside that oven. Anthony beat me to the first comment. I will not stand for such atrocities.
Will be interested to hear how it works out for you. My soon to be wife wants a greenhouse as well, so i may be contacting you for lessons learned after your wife uses it a while.
The P.I. Workshop two will enter! One will leave!
Maker knifes at dawn?
@@MapBot11 Lesson #1, it is hot as 12 suns in there right now. I'm sure during the cooler temperatures it will really pay off
@@JoshMakesStuff Jennifer mentioned that some have roll-up sides for the summer months to allow better air flow. She was skeptical if the vents y'all put on top would be enough for summer time.
I was a complete sceptic watching this, glad to see that most of the comments share my concerns.
8:25 The censor bar was there because in reality Bob was swearing like a sailor.
You are Brilliant 👌👌👍👏👏🙏
Should have closed off the back with some kind of vapor barrier... parking that thing up against the siding without one is going to let very warm and humid air infiltrate the siding and cool and condense - especially if the garage is unheated in the winter, and create rot.
It's cool that Lowe's sponsored it, but how much was the cost of this entire project?
Too much for what was built! Figure about ten to fifteen dollars a square foot for materials, depending on location and place of purchase.
About 10-15 dollars a sq.ft. for materials...6x12=720 to over a thousand. Depending on location and place of purchase.
And if you build it correctly, it will cost even more.
Wish you’d make me a green house!!! Or at least a room off the back of my house to safely enjoy my backyard!
is your backyard dangerous?
Man, watching this really makes me want to go out and get the supplies to get this going!
So do it
Is there going to be an issue with sinking since it's resting on 'sharp' 2x4s?
Classy job...well done!
And in today's video, we build a pizza oven.
That's actually an excellent tip to not build this in the summer!
😄
Random thought- read a book on green house construction first. Then you might go with real self opening vents, a good mounting approach for the twin wall plastic so that ‘that expensive plastic’ lasts a really long time or maybe just a floor that retains heat (that’s what green houses are all about).
An aside, it's kind of funny that half the comments are complaining that he built a floor at all, and you're complaining that he didn't build a good enough one.
I think a lot of the variety of complaints come from the fact the everyone lives in different environments and has different goals in what they would use a green house for.
If you do not add some wide foot pads, the wooden legs will sink uneven.
Cool door!
I was thinking about building a green house this week and now seeing this video .. Imma do it ..
apparently don't do the vents the way they did it or install the wood floor, use vents that use an arm with filled with wax( when wax heats up, flaps open) Use gravel instead of wood floor and don't lean against house without having the green house closed off
I've spent 15 years in construction and this wasn't really completed to weatherproofing standards, that trough that was created will build up with water and rot. Guaranteed 5 - 10 years from now that floor will be rotten and the skirt that was placed around the outside. Especially since it is made out of fibre board, that stuff loves to absorb water. I noticed a comment that said to place on gravel for drainage, great idea and better price point. Another thing to consider is using deck blocks or patio stones. Always start with a level surface, don't be lazy. These are just some things to consider if think about using this method. Other than that, it looks really nice!
I wouldn’t want it so close to my house and sharing a wall. I would be concerned about damage to the house wall with the increased heat and humidity.
Give this man some wood glue and pocket holes and he could build a country
And a Lowe's sponsor
Interesting... he mentioned that they didn't want to level the grade. Then they were stuck with making a very expensive wood floor with siding?! Pressure treated or not its gonna rot due to moisture and water spills. He should have graded the ground and put a durable attractive and inexpensive stone floor down
I don't know why you'd want a floor in a greenhouse anyway, right?
@@bradley3549 keep weeds from growing
@@nathan-fh8hp Seems like there are more permeable and rot resistant options than a plywood floor. But that's just me.
@@bradley3549 he said the floor was made of a composite material so I figured it was just textured that way. Or maybe plywood is a composite material and I didn't know that.
@@nathan-fh8hp It's composite siding laid on top of plywood. Pressure treated plywood at least. Plywood is technically a composite - composite materials are just things made from two or more different substrates (like glue and wood.)
Never the less, a plywood floor a greenhouse just sounds gross to me.
New to your channel...I like this greenhouse project!!!
Good one can i ask please whats the name of that plastic ,panel i mean thx.
I wouldn’t put a wood floor in it, I would just remove the sod, level it out and install crushed stone
They built their before lumber prices went sky high
Either no floor, or put it up on a few concrete deck blocks. One or the other...
Bummer that your covered the floor with wood bc they could've grew nice plants directly in the soil. The way you did it makes you lose a ton of space. It's more of a nursery than a greenhouse. Nice build tho
i might have to write that down
What if the soil is frosted or frozen? Guess you just don't use it, but the earth is also a huge thermal mass that will suck the heat out of the greenhouse.Isn't a nursery just a specific function of a greenhouse which is used to nurse young plants? And a greenhouse is a structure which uses translucency to allow and hold in the suns heat? So the more effective the heat holding the greener the house; yeah?I mean, no floor might be good depending; to each their own... but is the floor a "bummer"? Not one bit.
If they own the place that's a great idea!!! But if your renting you might run into the problem I have. Land lord does not like in ground plants. Be had to rip up to many gardens, so no unground plants for me. Just a thought 🙂
@@nicholas3354 Having exposed moist soil and the foundation insulated to frost depth would allow the excess daytime heat to be captured within the soil then released during the night. Heat absorbed by the soil is not "lost", but re-radiated to the greenhouse interior during periods without sunshine..
some people out there:
*SCAM THE HOUSE ISN'T GREEN*
Fun fact: the music sounds soo much better than the air compresser filling up for the nailer 😂 looks amazing thoe 👍 👊 🇬🇧
Can you do an update on his siding? I feel like vinyl siding would distort from the heat.
All that humidity getting into the houses siding will make mold start . Give it some time it will start rotting.
any house clad in vinyl will mold and rot from the inside. wood unable to breathe and too much moisture retention unless its desert
Every home should have one in these corona days and raising animals as well for meat..
You can tell you don't live in a rural area because most of us have a lot better set ups than this disaster.
Where did you get the attachment for your circular saw to work as a track saw?
What wood did you use for the timber? I really want to build one similar
lol imagine this thing in 10 years...
I give it two
Ain't gonna last that long. I'll give until next winter.
That they said ^ 👍
in 1 year
10? lol it won't last 2
I use to love watching your videos because of the detail you put into your projects. But lately every video you make of larger projects seem to be full of cut corners and ehhh it works. It just feels like you can't be bothered to do it correct.
I'm not knowledgeable about this kind of stuff, so I would like to know where he's cutting corners.
Ouch !!
@@FlamingCockatiel I don't know if he's cutting corners but what I've seen he's just doing stuff wrongly
Why use a floor at all? I would have just lined up bricks or cement block and built on top of that, leaving the grass or dirt underfoot.
I'm no expert, but I think no floor is viable; yet there are advantages to the floor, both aesthetic and also sheltering the greenhouse from the climate. In winter the ground is very chilling; for instance, there is a winter wilderness survival tactic where one situates an elevated place or else an insulating barrier (such as leaves) between themselves and the ground so that the ground doesn't suck all the heat out of them.
What type of plastic is that and where can you find it? Looks very cool.
how is the green house now ?. I would like to see how it's functioning, how poli-carbanate sheets are so and so. Thanks
I like the simple straightforward build, but I'd like to see how this behaves in heavy rain, those cut-out flaps with no jint at all and no water barrier where the roof meets the wall. Depending on how one uses a greenhouse a few leaks here and there might no t be an issue but I'd go with some kind of camping car window vent for the top vent, with a silicone joint, and waterproof membrane to stop water from running down the house wall. And a little add-on that's nice for anyone with a greenhouse, a gutter that feeds a water collector, to water the plants, even heat them if you put it inside(black tank heats up in the sun, and reeases heat at night )
I’m glad the code inspector didn’t come by. 😂
what are those plastics called and would be a better option that is cheaper than glass.
An inspector will not show up for a lean to shed or green house...No permit required for this type of structure...
As an actual professional contractor, this made me queasy.
what would you do differently? just curious because i was thinking about making one.
I plan to build one similar to this too, so I would also love to hear your feedback on what you'd do differently. Thanks in advance!!
Well la dee frickin da.
Why would you people responding to Smelly Goat Acres expect them to help you design a structure for free?
RUclips is interesting because often you have uneducated, ignorant, or even liars presenting material as if they truly understand it and often don't admit that to the viewer.
I'm not a hair stylist but I could read product labels and try a few things out and post a video teaching you how to but is that really good advise? A professional may get queesy watching my video.
@Sarah Williams Id build the walls on the ground and stand them up. I wouldn’t have wood sitting directly on the ground. I would be putting end cut on every 2x4, same as any deck. Research flat earth
hey josh how much wind did it take before you lost first panel. how bout dem roof vent hinges? lol
So I might have more questions but I don't want to forget. Wouldn't the airlines and air compressors be the most important buys. I only the the nail gun directed the pressure... I get it puts the nail in.. but I had a air compressor that didn't have enough pressure to drive the nail fully... I guess my question is, how do I know what psi for what type of wood is needed for complete nail drive?