It's easier and faster than you are doing it. Just stop at 2:26, and reset the chuck holder to its angle at 2:03. Then remove nearly half the 90 degree bit that you produced, to about 2mm from the centre line. That will produce a tool that doesn't leave chatter marks on the hole, and can be resharpened with a slip stone in seconds. If you only want it for wood and plastic, just produce it on a lathe and use a hacksaw to remove the wedge bit, then clean up with a file. Mild steel will last for a reasonable time if you don't want to heat treat it, and you needn't for cutting soft materials. I can make one in 2 minutes from an old bolt. Works the same way as the ones that have a round hole drilled across them. If you make the big diameter section longer, then you can fit an adjustable ring that will act as a depth gauge, tapped and fitted with a couple of screws, so all your countersinks will be the same depth. On a lathe it's easier to put a fine thread on that diameter and use a nut in place of the ring.
I just wondered... would you bother to harden it? I have to countersink some screw holes in a piece of stainless steel plate 2.5mm thick - It's either 304 or 308 but I'm not sure yet.
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Thankyou - watching you do this was amazing and also instructive - helped me to solve a different problem. 👍
I'm not easily impressed, but I do have to bow to you. Great job, man. That's a heck of a way to "turn" metal without a lathe.
It's easier and faster than you are doing it. Just stop at 2:26, and reset the chuck holder to its angle at 2:03. Then remove nearly half the 90 degree bit that you produced, to about 2mm from the centre line. That will produce a tool that doesn't leave chatter marks on the hole, and can be resharpened with a slip stone in seconds. If you only want it for wood and plastic, just produce it on a lathe and use a hacksaw to remove the wedge bit, then clean up with a file. Mild steel will last for a reasonable time if you don't want to heat treat it, and you needn't for cutting soft materials. I can make one in 2 minutes from an old bolt. Works the same way as the ones that have a round hole drilled across them. If you make the big diameter section longer, then you can fit an adjustable ring that will act as a depth gauge, tapped and fitted with a couple of screws, so all your countersinks will be the same depth. On a lathe it's easier to put a fine thread on that diameter and use a nut in place of the ring.
so nice to see the plastic to deal with the metal chips... so much better than let the stuff go everywhere...:) get video
Outstanding
Dude did you just eyeball and cut out a quarter inch hex shaft?? That's some damn good free hand cutting
you made that look so simple
Good job, please put more videos
A skilled craftsman for sure.
I just wondered... would you bother to harden it? I have to countersink some screw holes in a piece of stainless steel plate 2.5mm thick - It's either 304 or 308 but I'm not sure yet.
Perfect for me, couldn't find a countersink bit in market. But again I don't have that sharpening machine. :-(
Is that machine you're using, also called a lathe? Or how is it called??
This is a universal sharpening machine for circular saws, as well as for various types of cutters, including end mills.
Sir will this trick work on old broken carbide end mill
I think it will work, but I'm not sure that the body of the cutter will have a suitable steel grade