Dude! This is insane! I've just installed 4 of these drivers on an ultimaker clone, in standalone mode and all I had to do was remove a couple jumpers, reverse the steppers and change z steps/mm. I didn't even have to change the firmware. It's like I have a completely new, silent, cooler, printer. I can't believe how great these work. It's completely silent. Thank you for making us aware of these drivers. It's hands down absolutely the best upgrade one can make to a printer. Again, can't thank you enough!
Thanks Tom. I instantly bought the drivers after watching the video. I soldered them, wired them up and put them in wrong direction on my board. I fryed them. I ordered 3 new ones and now my printer is super quiet. Also i got the feeling that my print quality has improved. I connected them to the icsp-header for spi. For the 3 CS-Pins, I could use my ZMin-Pins (Delta Printer). Like a new printer!!!
Thomas you are AMAZING at what you do. Your public speaking skills are very good, and have a very clever sense of humor. Thank you for what you do, it makes a positive difference. kevin
Just got my old Prusa I3 Czar upgraded with these (sort of a why not upgrade while doing a bunch of other tweaks) and they work just as advertised/reviewed. Your guide was all that I needed to get them together, soldered/wired up and Marlin configured. Thanks for laying the groundwork! So much smoother and the silent running claims are not exaggerated... about all i hear is my fan and bed springs wiggling at this point... night and day from the old unknown vintage A4988s on there previously.
By the time you've bought a controller and 4x tmc2130 drivers then soldered it all up and reconfigured marlin you might as well have bought a Duet and be able to run 2.8A motors on tmc2660 in silence plus all other benefits. But as an instructional video it was good it shows you how to do it.
since i saw tom's mk3 video, i fell in love with the 2130, i was looking into integrating the 2130 in my ramps, suddenly the youtube subscription notification showed up on time :), thanks tom , love your videos
Hey Tom, Any idea when we'll be getting that video explaining different pin usage when we have an LCD? Or maybe a video explaining how to update firmware without having to reconfigure it every time?
Awesome video Tom, really useful and worth looking into the TCM2130's. I use TCM2100 and love them. Was impressed with how Prusa used the feedback of these new chips to add in lots of "fail safe" and error checking - just what the next generation of 3D printers need.
omg. this is SO GOOD. So detailed. Some of it ("this is a comment") is really basic, but I probably benefit in other seconds where I have dumb questions. For me, this is the part of 3D printing that isn't well-discussed: how to change driver boards, fundamental changes.
Hello Thomas! I have to thank you for all the Know-how you share with the community. I really appreciate your work and I'm a huge fan of what you do with 3D printers. For me as an electrical engineering student I do have to say that the quality of your information is amazing. I would love to see more engineering updates for DIY 3D printers. With 2018 heading infront of us I wish you all the best for the new year and I hope to see you soon in the new year. Best regards from Köln, Germany!
Hey Tom! Could you give us a hint how to "remap" the pins so we can use the tmc2130 features with a LCD/ Sd card combination which takes up the Aux3 Pins?
I absoluteley agree to you! While pc is a good thing in many places, in this case it can acutally lead to some misconception, as transfer protocols that require subscription (such as MQTT) exist too, but they have completely different applications. Still, Tom is a great guy
@@mcintyr100 , you know these are edited, riiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiight? That means every time TS stumbles , he's actually making a bit of a joke. Sorry to tell you this, 'Murrikkkan!, you're not too bright.
Since theirs a couple of people asking about the TMC 2208's I'll talk about them briefly. First off, yes they do have Stealthchop2, but i'm afraid I have no way of comparing it to the 2130 version, i'm running a large (300mmx300mmx350mm) printer on them using some very beefy 0.9degree steppers. They are virtually silent, I have to check its running sometime and i'm usually sat 3 feet away! This is on a RADDS board running Reprapfirmware 1.19 using a 24v power supply which is pretty esoteric as far as configs go... Configuration is very different, you can use them as direct drop in replacements for the A4988's and they just work, however to adjust them you need to use a serial interface, theres no SPI support on these, and currently Marlin does not support this method. I built an programming board to do this, since my Z axis is very heavy (large alu plate on a openbuilds frame) and stealthchop wasn;t strong enough for me. There's a desktop app for this which I used to switch the board for my Z axis into Spreadcycle, the noise is irreverent since the x axis doesn't go very fast. Be aware the serial pins are not connected at first you need to connect a solder jumper on the underside of the board, which can be fiddly (especially if like me you accidentally solder the pins on first! I'll try and answer any questions, but I would say if your not sure and using Marlin, get the 2130's since you'll get all the features Tom talks about. If your not using Marlin, its a hard choice since i'm not sure on the status on the TMC support in other firmwares. For me they are super quiet and awesome, but my hardware is a bit off the norm!
So you run in stealthChop2 with no missed steps? From the datasheet, it seems you can just leave them in standalone mode and adjust current with trimpot, no need to program with the UART interface.
Hi Jamie, Yes that's right, the XY and E are doing exactly that, however the Z axis did need to be changed to Spreadcycle which you can only do via the serial programming.
Hi npgoalkeeper_ With the 2208's no firmware i'm aware of supports all the features on RADDS, Reprapfirmware itself runs fine but lacking the networking features, so if it ever supports the serial interface and featureset in theory the board would be fine, however RADDS is a bit of an edge case so its hard to tell what will happen. the Reprapfirmware guys do have a good chunk of the TMC features working on the Duet Boards, but they use the 2660 series drivers i'm not sure how different they are to 2130's or 2208's so I can't recommend picking up the RADDS if you want more than basic features with the TMC stepper drivers. I think its totally possible as long as the firmware support it, but RADDS is a 32bit board so the standard Marlin doesn't work on it.
HEY, great timing! I was just digging through the data sheets for these drivers last night. The SPI connection was particularly compelling to me. I also saw reference in the literature to an encoder input, but according to Trinamic that was an error... oh well: I would like a simple on-chip solution to close the loop, but these will do for now. I plan to put them through their paces after the holiday with 2 Amp steppers at higher speeds, so we’ll see how they hold up. If they fry, I'll give the TMC2660 a go.
Hi Thomas! I was wondering if you ever made that "other video" about changing the pin assignments. I didn't see it in your video listing. I am trying to install TMC2130's on my MKS Gen 1.4 board and the pin assignments listed as being on the Aux block for the RAMPS are on the LCD block on the MKS. I have completely open Aux 1, 2 and 3 blocks but the pins are different. Trying to figure out where to put everything without sacrificing the LCD.
Great video and makes complete sense to me. I’m in the process of switching to TMC2130s. Mine have solder mask where the heat sink should go. Do I just scratch it off?
When set to spread cycle is it still quieter than the old drivers? I am thinking of putting these on my Sienci Mill One. would you imagine there would be anything different setting that up compared to what you showed for the 3d printer?
Thomas, was this example on 12v? Also could you have a 12v setup with 2560/1.4 and run 24v or higher to the vmot and ground for the drivers only or would this affect the ability to control all the features through FW?
Hello, nice video and i made with this everthing. but do i have to use the endstop pins additionally or do i have to decide on which axis i want to use this feature of the 2130 so maybe only on x, y and use them only there?
I'm curious if you set the options in software does the board maintain that setting after power off/on? I'm not using a 3D printer. Instead using it on a CNC machine. I'd have to use and Arduino to set the options up. But if I can set them once and they hold the setting that would work.
I would love a video giving an overview of everything involved with the electronics and control solution out there. I'm looking into upgrading my ardunio mega/ramps1.4 based printer to a better control board/stepper drivers, but I'm a bit lost, is it a good idea to move to 32 bit yet or should I wait till marlin catches up?
Hello Thomas I followed your video and installed the TMC2130 on my Tevo Tornado and everything work out without any problems Great Video so I added a filament sensor while I had it apart and its working as well but is there any way of turning off that Buzzer/speaker that go off when Filament runs out I hate noise and if I'm not around and it goes off the wife will have me leave as it won't take much as she said shes a print widow already only my third printer starting six months ago
Sorry for asking a question about such an old video but here goes - Given the ability of an appropriately setup TMC2130 based arrangement to detect when one of the motors "hits and endstop" does this mean by using a TMC2130 on the Z axis it would be possible to do bed levelling using the motor drivers? Thanks in advance.
What is the current/planned support for feature seen in the Prusa MM3 branch of Marlin into standard Marlin? Such as skipped step detection and the like.
Nice video. And about time stepper drivers for these machines are updated. Take a look at the development that has happened for ESCs for multicopters (FPV/Racers) over the last couple of years. It's a world of difference. I'm sure this is a nice step. But also that there are plenty more optimization ahead of us.
Nice Video Guide! I did this update to my AM8 with ramps 1.4. Its working... ok... With stealthchop i had layershifts and so i reduced my acceleration. But spreadcycle (also when doing sensorless homing) isn't working with my printer. there is such an unpleasant chirping coming from the stepper motors. Is there any way to fix that?
I couldn't wait for your next video to explain how to connect these drive on spi with the display. So I checked the diagram of the board to identify the miso, mosi, sck. Then I mapped other pin to CS and I'm glad to say it work. Now I'm working to replace the endstop...
Thanks for your reply. The issue turned out to be a faulty TMC2130 stepper. Weird because it worked fine in SPI , but caused the SD to stop working whenever it was in the board.
Awesome video! I can now hear all of the other mechanical noises my Robo R1 makes. Time to start printing some NinjaFlex dampers and ordering new linear bearings.
Hello Mr. Thomas Sanladerer, I have seen her contribution to the TMC2130! I have just rebuilt my MKS Gen L V1.0 with the TMC2100 from Watterott! What else should I pay attention to which settings, such as: energizing the individual axes (X-Y-Z-E0), Do you still need to solder bridges to the TMC2100? What software settings are needed in the Marlin firmware? Especially what you have to pay attention to, so that the board and the TMC2100 will not break ?! I would be very grateful to you for your help, as I am still a newcomer to 3D printers! My printer is the JGAurora A5. Sincerely, Werner Driehorst
Hmmm. So I'm figuring out pins to try this on my GT2560 board. Seems like the MOSI/MISO/SCK pins in AUX3 on the RAMPS board are present in the SD card header on mine. Don't really mind losing SD but since it's SPI I think both should work - Guess we'll find out :) Looks like the select pins just go to arbitrary pins to the chip so hopefully I can use some of the spare endstop pins or similar...
I have a MKS gen-L and TMC32130 and I was reading that for SPI to work, the solder joints on the 2130 board had to be bridged. I did not see anything here about that here. I'm not sure what to do.
After 3 months of using TMC2130's on my x and y axis, I removed them both today and refitted the original 4988 drivers, heres why. With the 2130s fitted I found that yes they ran very quiet, but they ran very hot, so hot that you must provide extra active cooling ( thats more fan noise). I found that I had to turn the print speed down quite a lot, plus the accel by a substantial amount too. I also noticed that both my X and Y motors ran a lot hotter (too hot to hold my hand on) even though they were running at a slower print speed. My printing was also unreliable as it often failed during the print with missed steps and layer shift all due to the 2130 drivers overheating. So, overall the TMC2130 drivers are nice and quiet, but if you want reliable prints every time, and at a faster speed, then I recommend to stick with the 4988 drivers and just get used to the musical noise!
Hi Thom, do you want on dolly or another printer connect a large LCD and explain the more larger software on that LCD? I mean: you have the usual software, but also the more comprehensive software how you can use that software on that LCD? can you give a tour (of that software) on that LCD? friendly greetings from The Netherlands! Rob.
So I got a set of these and the question I have is, what if I want to do Sensorless Z axis homing as well? How could I accomplish that? A bit of backstory. My MK2 clone used mechanical endstops as I detest inductive/conductive/etc sensors and I'd prefer to keep it that way. Plugging in the Mechanical endstops just causes the Z-axis to lift a tiny bit and not do anything else, and having the Diag pin plugged in (as indicated in the video) causes it to continuously try to self destruct by running the motors even when bottomed out.
I tried it out on my highly modded Anet A8. It doesnt work with prusa type printers, because you have too much torque in the Z gear. Even lowered the Power for the Z Steppers to 400mah and the Homing Sensitivity for Z to 1. Doesnt work. Also the Bed itself uses a Spring which would make the measuring quite inaccurate, because it would always trigger somwhere else
2 questions: 1st, could you post a link to the wiring diagrams? They went by too fast for me. 2nd, I seem to be missing something - how does the fw know how to address the x driver vs the y driver? Do you number them somewhere (x is 0, y is 1, z is 2, e is 3) or is there some other way you're selecting the correct driver for, say, the x axis?
I got a problem detecting skipping step while printing in X and Y... I got the endstop replacement working fine for homing (G28). For the Z axis min, I still use an opto endstop with a 7mm flag so it home at 7mm from the nozzle. I don't want a collision between the nozzle and the bed to detect a skipped step from the stronger Z motor and lead screw. If I activate M120, it enable all endstop during printing, including the Z which is triggered under 7mm and then stop moving under 7mm. Marlin activate endstop globally, I don't know how to disable the Z min endstop alone during printing.
Apart from affecting the noise and making the printer smart, how do the TMCs affect the quality of the prints? I'm looking to upgrade the standard ender 3 board to an MKS with TMCs in it but I was wondering if the quality of the prints would also improve.
Tom, there is a pretty important piece of info missing from this video. Unlike any driver we've worked with before, these suddenly care about how you power them up. Motor voltage has to come up before logic voltage, and logic has to go out before Motor voltage. I can't fathom why they wouldn't just put a diode somewhere to prevent this annoyance, but giving these drivers logic voltage only has a chance to blow them. I know, because it happened to me. Only when it happened I was quite frustrated and very confused because the only place where this is mentioned is in Waterott's FAQ page. No videos, no announcements, no anything to make the fact more widely known. Were it not for the fact that I hadn't been able to find my way to Waterott's page before it happened, I wouldn't have received a replacement. In a nutshell, people need to be warned that they can't have a USB cable providing power to the board from a computer or an OctoPi without the power supply being on too. USB has to be unplugged before the printer is turned off, and USB cannot be plugged in before turning on the printer's power supply. For such a divergence as this is from what has become common knowledge regarding 3D printer electronics, I am utterly dissatisfied with how it was, or in this case seemingly wasn't, mentioned a lot more and with more urgency. Some people have scolded me saying I shouldn't be connecting the outputs of two regulated sources together. Wouldn't this be common knowledge if printers were failing every time someone hosted GCODE to them from a computer? Most reprap boards take 5V power from an onboard regulator and from USB, but there's no isolation between them. And need I mention the many side by side VRM's that supply CPU's on motherboards? Anyways, I digress. I doubt many people will know how to, or even be able to remove JUST the 5V connection from the USB side of the board while maintaining the data connections. It's not like there's a wire one can just cut.
Is it possible that stepper drivers can be worn over time? My Mk2 has been driving perfect almost 24/7 in the last year without any mistake. but 3 weeks ago I begin to experience skipped layers and uneven extrusion. Everything is maintained, cleaned and inspected every 2 months. without any errors found.
Hey can somebody please help me? I have an Anet A8 and would like to make it quieter with stepper drivers. Are the drivers shown in the video still the best option? Thanks. And very interesting video!
What could be the Issue when my Extruder Motor gets unbelievably hot after updating to TMC2130? I used the same current setting as the ones in the Video. Only difference being that my machine was a cheap knock off Prusa. Maybe the Cheap Chinese Nema17 Motors tend to be hotter? Should I update them?
when you're using a ramps and a simple display, both of the aux slots are used. hope you make the video that shows how to use other pins as soon as possible!
Done! I soldered SDO, SCK and SDI on top of the AUX3 connector on the LCD board, and then remapped CS_X and CS_Y on the unused 57 and 58 pins, in "pins_RAMPS.h" >>> #define X_CS_PIN 57 #define Y_CS_PIN 58 Hope it help :)
You can use all the Data Pins in Parallel to the Display as he explained. You only have to use some other CS Pins. I Have changed my X_CS to D66 and the Y_CS Pin to 44 in Marlin. (pins_ramps.h) Like that you can use the Display and all the Stepper Drivers at the same time.
I know this is old, however Id love to see a "best bang for the buck" Prusa Build. I think building it out of import 2020 or 4020 extrusions(bear upgrade?), using a due and smart ramps(or other 32 bit board..), TMC 2130, Some form of auto bed leveling, filament runout and jam sensor(seems there are some of these online like the JamSentry), the MK3 build surface. Im sure there are plenty of other ideas that can be thrown in, but id love to see your idea of the best bang for the buck Prusa
I'm having issues upgrading to these drivers. I have a COREXY printer and i've followed your guide and connected them to a ramps 1.4 but now the steps doesnt equal the distance traveled anymore??
Great Video, Thomas. You're connecting Z- Diagnosis pin to Z-Min. How to set this up with an inductive probe? Or are you using the Z-Diagnosis pin for autoleveling rather than an inductive probe?
Tom, I really liked this video, but the "sideways" shots that were interjected every so often didn't really look great. If it's to indicate towards an object you're holding it works fine, but the rest of it doesn't really look great to me. The fact that it changes to 30fps makes it stand out a bit more to me. Just my thoughts. Still a great video! I may buy a set of these for my FT-5.
Wow, you actually caught that! Yes, I know the side shot was less than perfect (out of focus, too), but it still felt better in there than leaving it out. Might need to get another GH5 one day for 4k60 everywhere ;-)
Yeah -- I've noticed other channels / TV shows do the same thing, but to me it always feels like the cameraman and host are out of sync on which camera the host was supposed to be looking at. I'd much rather see an over-the-shoulder looking down at whatever you're working on as an alternate view.
The change in frame rate distracted me too. But I kind of liked the side shot, it has a nice aesthetic to it. It was only the frame rate that caught me off guard
My question is.. I am waiting for my Prusa 2.5 upgrade.. makes you think.. why do they not include this already done and we can just also make a change on the board?
Since this printer had a ramps 1.4 and 2560, I'm assuming it is running a 12V psu? I read that these run much netter on 24V, and make a high pitched noise on 12V. Is that true?
Can these be wired up directly to an MKS v1.4 board? Bought some of these drivers a while back, had no idea how to use them until I saw this video. For some reason they came with all of the pins soldered on down, trying to figure out if I need to change that.
I was looking at swapping mine out for these on my MKS Gen L board. On my printer, i have dual Z motors that are driven by the same driver. Is there anything special that needs to be done for that situation?
Finally got these TMC2130 somewhat working on a GT2560 but the part at the end of this vid about the stepper motors going in one direction is whats happening now. Tried changing the Endstop_Inverting to false and it doesn't not help fix it at all. Tried multiple combinations of the Endstop_Inverting and Invert_(x, y, z)_Dir. Even tried disabling the Max Endstops and various other settings. Can't seem to find a fix. Could this be a issue with what Pins I am using for the CS? Not many choices to use on the GT2560.
Would love to see the video you mentioned on getting it to work on other pins (you showed an MKS Gen board - that's what I'd like to use it on). Really want to leave the LCD headers alone...
Looking into it a bit further - the MKS Gen has SPI available on the AUX-3 header along with two extra digital pins. AUX-2 also has 8 pins to use. Should be pretty easy.
My understanding is to get these drivers into SPI mode you have to solder a couple of very small connectors together on the drivers. You didn’t do that. Are there different types of these drivers?
Hello Thomas, shouldn't it be technically possible to auto level the hotbed with one of these drivers on the z axis? I mean with the hotend touching the hotbed as the endstop?
I just finished adding these to my Original Prusa i3 Mk2, following this guide. I had to swap the Mini Rambo board out for one that supports removable drivers - I went with a generic MKS Gen 1.4. Since the Original i3 Mk2 has an LCD, I changed the CS pins to use the board's servo pins (which I don't use): 11, 6, 5, and 4. I had to reconfigure vanilla Marlin from scratch, since the Prusa fork of Marlin is so far out of sync with vanilla, it doesn't support the 2130s (except in the Mk3 fork of course, which would have been even more work to back-port). Re-configuring vanilla Marlin from scratch for the original i3, but with a MKS Gen board ended up being the hardest part of the whole process. Once I got Marlin working using A4988's I had laying around, the rest was relatively easy. The whole process took me about 1.5 days. With a printer that has a vanilla Marlin config already, like an Anet or Creality, it probably only would have been 1/2 day. My printer went from 75 dB max during printing (as measured by an app on my phone) to 60 dB. Wow! Definitely worth it! Thanks for the awesome video, Tom!
I have just got these genuine drivers from watterott but I am having constant overheat issues with them, even at 600mA current, also when i try to print from sd, the SPI bus goes haywire and reports all kinds of driver errors
PLEASE HELP!! I got the 2208 but what i trying to understand this driver pretty much the same features as the 2130....OR? Like the sensorless homing. This is the info i read from the seller but this option is not commented in Marlin
Hi, rewatching your video in anticipation of getting some TMC2130’s, I am getting concerned that there isn’t a guide for how to use the AUX3 in conjuncture with the LCD break out board and how exactly we are supposed to daisy chain the jumpers between each stepper, help?
If you want to use the AUX 3 for both an LCD breakout board and the TMC2130 connections then you will just have to solder the leads coming from the TMC2130's to the heads of the relevant pins on the LCD break out board. To connect multiple TMC2130's to the same pin then again you can just solder 2/3/4 leads together so they terminate in just one pin.
Dude! This is insane! I've just installed 4 of these drivers on an ultimaker clone, in standalone mode and all I had to do was remove a couple jumpers, reverse the steppers and change z steps/mm. I didn't even have to change the firmware. It's like I have a completely new, silent, cooler, printer. I can't believe how great these work. It's completely silent.
Thank you for making us aware of these drivers. It's hands down absolutely the best upgrade one can make to a printer. Again, can't thank you enough!
Thanks Tom. I instantly bought the drivers after watching the video. I soldered them, wired them up and put them in wrong direction on my board. I fryed them. I ordered 3 new ones and now my printer is super quiet. Also i got the feeling that my print quality has improved.
I connected them to the icsp-header for spi. For the 3 CS-Pins, I could use my ZMin-Pins (Delta Printer).
Like a new printer!!!
Thomas you are AMAZING at what you do. Your public speaking skills are very good, and have a very clever sense of humor.
Thank you for what you do, it makes a positive difference.
kevin
Exactly the sort of technical vids I love. Thank you Tom
Yeah, he finally made video for normal human beings. This is something that regular people with jobs can watch. :)
Yeah for the nube like me this is gold ! I'm learning so much with Tom's vids
You could make it even quieter by converting to small noctua fans, those things have great airflow and are silent
And expensive for such small fans ;)
just if noctua made some blowerfans, that would be next level
Sintoxic
Very, but you usually only need two or three per printer maybe
wito
There are plenty of fan duct designs that work almost as well as squirrel cage blowers
My printer runs at 24v. Could I still use Noctua fans because I have only found 12v
Just got my old Prusa I3 Czar upgraded with these (sort of a why not upgrade while doing a bunch of other tweaks) and they work just as advertised/reviewed. Your guide was all that I needed to get them together, soldered/wired up and Marlin configured. Thanks for laying the groundwork! So much smoother and the silent running claims are not exaggerated... about all i hear is my fan and bed springs wiggling at this point... night and day from the old unknown vintage A4988s on there previously.
By the time you've bought a controller and 4x tmc2130 drivers then soldered it all up and reconfigured marlin you might as well have bought a Duet and be able to run 2.8A motors on tmc2660 in silence plus all other benefits. But as an instructional video it was good it shows you how to do it.
I am so glad to see another "How to" video from you Thomas. These made me subscribe a year ago;)
Trinamic For The Win!!! I love the TMC2660 drivers on my Duet WiFi. Excellent video, Thanks Tom!
since i saw tom's mk3 video, i fell in love with the 2130, i was looking into integrating the 2130 in my ramps, suddenly the youtube subscription notification showed up on time :), thanks tom , love your videos
I was about to buy one of these but were confused concerning the variety of the tmc family. Thanks for clearing me up, Tom!
Hey Tom, Any idea when we'll be getting that video explaining different pin usage when we have an LCD? Or maybe a video explaining how to update firmware without having to reconfigure it every time?
I was looking for the videoon the pin usage too... Seems Tom has forgotten about it :/
Awesome video Tom, really useful and worth looking into the TCM2130's. I use TCM2100 and love them. Was impressed with how Prusa used the feedback of these new chips to add in lots of "fail safe" and error checking - just what the next generation of 3D printers need.
Very interesting and informative. I have been building a camera slider with a TMC2130 and I am loving how silent it is!
omg. this is SO GOOD. So detailed. Some of it ("this is a comment") is really basic, but I probably benefit in other seconds where I have dumb questions. For me, this is the part of 3D printing that isn't well-discussed: how to change driver boards, fundamental changes.
Hello Thomas!
I have to thank you for all the Know-how you share with the community. I really appreciate your work and I'm a huge fan of what you do with 3D printers. For me as an electrical engineering student I do have to say that the quality of your information is amazing. I would love to see more engineering updates for DIY 3D printers.
With 2018 heading infront of us I wish you all the best for the new year and I hope to see you soon in the new year.
Best regards from Köln, Germany!
Hey Tom! Could you give us a hint how to "remap" the pins so we can use the tmc2130 features with a LCD/ Sd card combination which takes up the Aux3 Pins?
Yes, Tom. Please give us that lcd instruction!
You could just hook up the tmcs in parallel.
You could just hook up the tmcs in parallel.
Don't be afraid of saying the term "slave" when you explain the SPI interface! It's a master-slave communication.
I absoluteley agree to you! While pc is a good thing in many places, in this case it can acutally lead to some misconception, as transfer protocols that require subscription (such as MQTT) exist too, but they have completely different applications. Still, Tom is a great guy
Jonathan McIntyre
Relax dude it's a joke.
Or he doesn't want to get demonetized.
Get used to it and move on, world's changing.
@@mcintyr100 , you know these are edited, riiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiight? That means every time TS stumbles , he's actually making a bit of a joke.
Sorry to tell you this, 'Murrikkkan!, you're not too bright.
Since theirs a couple of people asking about the TMC 2208's I'll talk about them briefly. First off, yes they do have Stealthchop2, but i'm afraid I have no way of comparing it to the 2130 version, i'm running a large (300mmx300mmx350mm) printer on them using some very beefy 0.9degree steppers.
They are virtually silent, I have to check its running sometime and i'm usually sat 3 feet away!
This is on a RADDS board running Reprapfirmware 1.19 using a 24v power supply which is pretty esoteric as far as configs go...
Configuration is very different, you can use them as direct drop in replacements for the A4988's and they just work, however to adjust them you need to use a serial interface, theres no SPI support on these, and currently Marlin does not support this method. I built an programming board to do this, since my Z axis is very heavy (large alu plate on a openbuilds frame) and stealthchop wasn;t strong enough for me. There's a desktop app for this which I used to switch the board for my Z axis into Spreadcycle, the noise is irreverent since the x axis doesn't go very fast.
Be aware the serial pins are not connected at first you need to connect a solder jumper on the underside of the board, which can be fiddly (especially if like me you accidentally solder the pins on first! I'll try and answer any questions, but I would say if your not sure and using Marlin, get the 2130's since you'll get all the features Tom talks about. If your not using Marlin, its a hard choice since i'm not sure on the status on the TMC support in other firmwares. For me they are super quiet and awesome, but my hardware is a bit off the norm!
So you run in stealthChop2 with no missed steps? From the datasheet, it seems you can just leave them in standalone mode and adjust current with trimpot, no need to program with the UART interface.
Hi Jamie, Yes that's right, the XY and E are doing exactly that, however the Z axis did need to be changed to Spreadcycle which you can only do via the serial programming.
Hi npgoalkeeper_ With the 2208's no firmware i'm aware of supports all the features on RADDS, Reprapfirmware itself runs fine but lacking the networking features, so if it ever supports the serial interface and featureset in theory the board would be fine, however RADDS is a bit of an edge case so its hard to tell what will happen. the Reprapfirmware guys do have a good chunk of the TMC features working on the Duet Boards, but they use the 2660 series drivers i'm not sure how different they are to 2130's or 2208's so I can't recommend picking up the RADDS if you want more than basic features with the TMC stepper drivers. I think its totally possible as long as the firmware support it, but RADDS is a 32bit board so the standard Marlin doesn't work on it.
Thanks for the info on the 2208. Very helpful.
Now, Marlin 1.1.8 support 2208, have you tried this version ? i am waiting mks version of 2208 from aliexpress :)
HEY, great timing! I was just digging through the data sheets for these drivers last night. The SPI connection was particularly compelling to me. I also saw reference in the literature to an encoder input, but according to Trinamic that was an error... oh well: I would like a simple on-chip solution to close the loop, but these will do for now. I plan to put them through their paces after the holiday with 2 Amp steppers at higher speeds, so we’ll see how they hold up. If they fry, I'll give the TMC2660 a go.
What obout 2208, do they have the same functionality but without the missed steps feedback etc.
ORSM, thx for yet an high quality video, with reasonably in depth explanation, u'r the master
Hi Thomas! I was wondering if you ever made that "other video" about changing the pin assignments. I didn't see it in your video listing. I am trying to install TMC2130's on my MKS Gen 1.4 board and the pin assignments listed as being on the Aux block for the RAMPS are on the LCD block on the MKS. I have completely open Aux 1, 2 and 3 blocks but the pins are different. Trying to figure out where to put everything without sacrificing the LCD.
Great video and makes complete sense to me. I’m in the process of switching to TMC2130s. Mine have solder mask where the heat sink should go. Do I just scratch it off?
When set to spread cycle is it still quieter than the old drivers? I am thinking of putting these on my Sienci Mill One. would you imagine there would be anything different setting that up compared to what you showed for the 3d printer?
did tom ever show us how to configure the use of other pins in another video? for using the LCD as well as the driver functions ?
Do you have an idea of when you might have the video of using an LCD with the TMC2130 drivers and a RAMPS 1.4 board out?
Thomas, was this example on 12v? Also could you have a 12v setup with 2560/1.4 and run 24v or higher to the vmot and ground for the drivers only or would this affect the ability to control all the features through FW?
When do you plan on doing the follow-up videos on reassigning the aux pins? I have the drivers sitting on my desk right now.
Hello, nice video and i made with this everthing. but do i have to use the endstop pins additionally or do i have to decide on which axis i want to use this feature of the 2130 so maybe only on x, y and use them only there?
Hello Thomas,
What about dampers to reduce noise ? Will it impact printing quality ? Any drawback ?
I'm curious if you set the options in software does the board maintain that setting after power off/on? I'm not using a 3D printer. Instead using it on a CNC machine. I'd have to use and Arduino to set the options up. But if I can set them once and they hold the setting that would work.
Tom, I'm really proud that you're chosing to set a good example.
I would love a video giving an overview of everything involved with the electronics and control solution out there.
I'm looking into upgrading my ardunio mega/ramps1.4 based printer to a better control board/stepper drivers, but I'm a bit lost, is it a good idea to move to 32 bit yet or should I wait till marlin catches up?
Hello Thomas I followed your video and installed the TMC2130 on my Tevo Tornado and everything work out without any problems Great Video so I added a filament sensor while I had it apart and its working as well but is there any way of turning off that Buzzer/speaker that go off when Filament runs out I hate noise and if I'm not around and it goes off the wife will have me leave as it won't take much as she said shes a print widow already only my third printer starting six months ago
With the TMC, it might be a good idea to revisit the water cooling hotend - as the hotend cooling fan is now the loudest part of my printer...
that soldering iron looks beautifull
No Doubt. I am very jealous! :D
Your video production is on point,Tom! You've come a long way :)
Get my nerd on? ALWAYS.
Haha you're a nerd... My favorite nerd! I love your channel!
:O====
odinata I haven't. Not yet!
Can I add more of this drivers to support more axis (extruders) up to 9axis!?
Sorry for asking a question about such an old video but here goes - Given the ability of an appropriately setup TMC2130 based arrangement to detect when one of the motors "hits and endstop" does this mean by using a TMC2130 on the Z axis it would be possible to do bed levelling using the motor drivers? Thanks in advance.
What is the current/planned support for feature seen in the Prusa MM3 branch of Marlin into standard Marlin? Such as skipped step detection and the like.
Nice video. And about time stepper drivers for these machines are updated. Take a look at the development that has happened for ESCs for multicopters (FPV/Racers) over the last couple of years. It's a world of difference. I'm sure this is a nice step. But also that there are plenty more optimization ahead of us.
You are just the neatest person. This information is super helpful, thanks for sharing!
Also where does the diagnostic pin for the Extruder Stepper go? Its not listed in your diagrams. Do we just not use that one?
Hi Thomas; great video! But... how could this be done with the MK2's Rambo mini 1.3a that include the motor drivers onboard?
I really want to add these drivers to my mk2 (I'm getting the mk2.5) but obviously having some of the mk3 features would be awesome)
Nice Video Guide! I did this update to my AM8 with ramps 1.4. Its working... ok... With stealthchop i had layershifts and so i reduced my acceleration. But spreadcycle (also when doing sensorless homing) isn't working with my printer. there is such an unpleasant chirping coming from the stepper motors. Is there any way to fix that?
Wow, this is awesome! Is it just me or shouldn't these enable (once it's in the software) auto bed leveling without extra sensors?
I couldn't wait for your next video to explain how to connect these drive on spi with the display. So I checked the diagram of the board to identify the miso, mosi, sck. Then I mapped other pin to CS and I'm glad to say it work. Now I'm working to replace the endstop...
Hi
Does your SD card reader still work?
I got 4 steppers set up fine. LCD still works, but SD no longer working.
Some type of SPI error me thinks
lemmingDev yes, everythings works fine. However I just used them for x and y. lcd fine, sd fine. Endstop detection fine.
Thanks for your reply. The issue turned out to be a faulty TMC2130 stepper. Weird because it worked fine in SPI , but caused the SD to stop working whenever it was in the board.
Fixed some soldering - all good now
Is there going to be an updated video for the TMC2208 out are those set up the exact same as the TMC2130?
Awesome video! I can now hear all of the other mechanical noises my Robo R1 makes. Time to start printing some NinjaFlex dampers and ordering new linear bearings.
Looking good @ 60FPS! Keep up the fantastic work Tom!
Hello Mr. Thomas Sanladerer,
I have seen her contribution to the TMC2130! I have just rebuilt my MKS Gen L V1.0 with the TMC2100 from Watterott! What else should I pay attention to which settings, such as: energizing the individual axes (X-Y-Z-E0),
Do you still need to solder bridges to the TMC2100?
What software settings are needed in the Marlin firmware?
Especially what you have to pay attention to, so that the board and the TMC2100 will not break ?!
I would be very grateful to you for your help, as I am still a newcomer to 3D printers!
My printer is the JGAurora A5.
Sincerely, Werner Driehorst
Hmmm. So I'm figuring out pins to try this on my GT2560 board. Seems like the MOSI/MISO/SCK pins in AUX3 on the RAMPS board are present in the SD card header on mine. Don't really mind losing SD but since it's SPI I think both should work - Guess we'll find out :) Looks like the select pins just go to arbitrary pins to the chip so hopefully I can use some of the spare endstop pins or similar...
really interesting. just ordered two for my very noisy repstrap build
I have a MKS gen-L and TMC32130 and I was reading that for SPI to work, the solder joints on the 2130 board had to be bridged. I did not see anything here about that here. I'm not sure what to do.
hi Tom, just wondering, after you run M906 S1, couldn't you save the settings to the EEPROM with M500?
At 2.31 what modification was done to that drv8825 with a resistor on it
Hi, does the Marlin has been updated to new features you speak in the end of the video? The auto home if it loses steps. Thanks
Great video! But do you have tips or a guide on making it work with the lcd display?
Can this be done to the to the Megatronics V3.1 or is it still early days to know. as cant seem to see where the SPI pins would connect to,
What was the pink line coming off of aux2 in the cs diagram for?
After 3 months of using TMC2130's on my x and y axis, I removed them both today and refitted the original 4988 drivers, heres why. With the 2130s fitted I found that yes they ran very quiet, but they ran very hot, so hot that you must provide extra active cooling ( thats more fan noise). I found that I had to turn the print speed down quite a lot, plus the accel by a substantial amount too. I also noticed that both my X and Y motors ran a lot hotter (too hot to hold my hand on) even though they were running at a slower print speed. My printing was also unreliable as it often failed during the print with missed steps and layer shift all due to the 2130 drivers overheating. So, overall the TMC2130 drivers are nice and quiet, but if you want reliable prints every time, and at a faster speed, then I recommend to stick with the 4988 drivers and just get used to the musical noise!
Hi Thom,
do you want on dolly or another printer
connect a large LCD
and explain the more larger software on that LCD?
I mean:
you have the usual software,
but also the more comprehensive software
how you can use that software on that LCD?
can you give a tour (of that software) on that LCD?
friendly greetings from The Netherlands!
Rob.
So I got a set of these and the question I have is, what if I want to do Sensorless Z axis homing as well? How could I accomplish that?
A bit of backstory. My MK2 clone used mechanical endstops as I detest inductive/conductive/etc sensors and I'd prefer to keep it that way. Plugging in the Mechanical endstops just causes the Z-axis to lift a tiny bit and not do anything else, and having the Diag pin plugged in (as indicated in the video) causes it to continuously try to self destruct by running the motors even when bottomed out.
I tried it out on my highly modded Anet A8. It doesnt work with prusa type printers, because you have too much torque in the Z gear. Even lowered the Power for the Z Steppers to 400mah and the Homing Sensitivity for Z to 1. Doesnt work. Also the Bed itself uses a Spring which would make the measuring quite inaccurate, because it would always trigger somwhere else
DearThomas, did you know if these drivers with their control feedback has been tester on Smoothie??? Thanks! Federico.
2 questions: 1st, could you post a link to the wiring diagrams? They went by too fast for me. 2nd, I seem to be missing something - how does the fw know how to address the x driver vs the y driver? Do you number them somewhere (x is 0, y is 1, z is 2, e is 3) or is there some other way you're selecting the correct driver for, say, the x axis?
I got a problem detecting skipping step while printing in X and Y... I got the endstop replacement working fine for homing (G28). For the Z axis min, I still use an opto endstop with a 7mm flag so it home at 7mm from the nozzle. I don't want a collision between the nozzle and the bed to detect a skipped step from the stronger Z motor and lead screw. If I activate M120, it enable all endstop during printing, including the Z which is triggered under 7mm and then stop moving under 7mm. Marlin activate endstop globally, I don't know how to disable the Z min endstop alone during printing.
Apart from affecting the noise and making the printer smart, how do the TMCs affect the quality of the prints? I'm looking to upgrade the standard ender 3 board to an MKS with TMCs in it but I was wondering if the quality of the prints would also improve.
Here is a bunch of questions
is the bed auto leveling is now working with the TMC2130 ?
can you have 2 more pins up to give the driver more juice ?
Tom will these drivers allow individual control of all steppers as the Z-axis on my printer uses 4 stepper motors one on each corner
Tom, there is a pretty important piece of info missing from this video.
Unlike any driver we've worked with before, these suddenly care about how you power them up. Motor voltage has to come up before logic voltage, and logic has to go out before Motor voltage. I can't fathom why they wouldn't just put a diode somewhere to prevent this annoyance, but giving these drivers logic voltage only has a chance to blow them.
I know, because it happened to me. Only when it happened I was quite frustrated and very confused because the only place where this is mentioned is in Waterott's FAQ page. No videos, no announcements, no anything to make the fact more widely known. Were it not for the fact that I hadn't been able to find my way to Waterott's page before it happened, I wouldn't have received a replacement.
In a nutshell, people need to be warned that they can't have a USB cable providing power to the board from a computer or an OctoPi without the power supply being on too. USB has to be unplugged before the printer is turned off, and USB cannot be plugged in before turning on the printer's power supply. For such a divergence as this is from what has become common knowledge regarding 3D printer electronics, I am utterly dissatisfied with how it was, or in this case seemingly wasn't, mentioned a lot more and with more urgency.
Some people have scolded me saying I shouldn't be connecting the outputs of two regulated sources together. Wouldn't this be common knowledge if printers were failing every time someone hosted GCODE to them from a computer? Most reprap boards take 5V power from an onboard regulator and from USB, but there's no isolation between them. And need I mention the many side by side VRM's that supply CPU's on motherboards? Anyways, I digress. I doubt many people will know how to, or even be able to remove JUST the 5V connection from the USB side of the board while maintaining the data connections. It's not like there's a wire one can just cut.
Is it possible that stepper drivers can be worn over time? My Mk2 has been driving perfect almost 24/7 in the last year without any mistake. but 3 weeks ago I begin to experience skipped layers and uneven extrusion. Everything is maintained, cleaned and inspected every 2 months. without any errors found.
Hey can somebody please help me? I have an Anet A8 and would like to make it quieter with stepper drivers. Are the drivers shown in the video still the best option? Thanks. And very interesting video!
What could be the Issue when my Extruder Motor gets unbelievably hot after updating to TMC2130? I used the same current setting as the ones in the Video. Only difference being that my machine was a cheap knock off Prusa. Maybe the Cheap Chinese Nema17 Motors tend to be hotter? Should I update them?
when you're using a ramps and a simple display, both of the aux slots are used. hope you make the video that shows how to use other pins as soon as possible!
Agreed!
me too !
Benoit B writing a tutorial on doing this as we speak! Mines already working and it’s amazing!!!
Done! I soldered SDO, SCK and SDI on top of the AUX3 connector on the LCD board, and then remapped CS_X and CS_Y on the unused 57 and 58 pins, in "pins_RAMPS.h" >>> #define X_CS_PIN 57 #define Y_CS_PIN 58
Hope it help :)
You can use all the Data Pins in Parallel to the Display as he explained. You only have to use some other CS Pins. I Have changed my X_CS to D66 and the Y_CS Pin to 44 in Marlin. (pins_ramps.h) Like that you can use the Display and all the Stepper Drivers at the same time.
If sensorless homing doesn't work try disabling pullup ! Took my a while to figure it out.
Appreciate for your video, building a new printer, and your info was very helpful for the TMC2130! Thanks :)
I know this is old, however Id love to see a "best bang for the buck" Prusa Build. I think building it out of import 2020 or 4020 extrusions(bear upgrade?), using a due and smart ramps(or other 32 bit board..), TMC 2130, Some form of auto bed leveling, filament runout and jam sensor(seems there are some of these online like the JamSentry), the MK3 build surface. Im sure there are plenty of other ideas that can be thrown in, but id love to see your idea of the best bang for the buck Prusa
I'm having issues upgrading to these drivers. I have a COREXY printer and i've followed your guide and connected them to a ramps 1.4 but now the steps doesnt equal the distance traveled anymore??
Will the "Ram the extruder into the sides to home" version work on Core-XY machines or will it just confuse the steppers or Marlin?
Great Video, Thomas. You're connecting Z- Diagnosis pin to Z-Min. How to set this up with an inductive probe? Or are you using the Z-Diagnosis pin for autoleveling rather than an inductive probe?
Tom, I really liked this video, but the "sideways" shots that were interjected every so often didn't really look great. If it's to indicate towards an object you're holding it works fine, but the rest of it doesn't really look great to me. The fact that it changes to 30fps makes it stand out a bit more to me.
Just my thoughts. Still a great video! I may buy a set of these for my FT-5.
Wow, you actually caught that! Yes, I know the side shot was less than perfect (out of focus, too), but it still felt better in there than leaving it out. Might need to get another GH5 one day for 4k60 everywhere ;-)
Yeah, not sure why people do that. Always hated those. Never made sense to me.
Yeah -- I've noticed other channels / TV shows do the same thing, but to me it always feels like the cameraman and host are out of sync on which camera the host was supposed to be looking at. I'd much rather see an over-the-shoulder looking down at whatever you're working on as an alternate view.
The change in frame rate distracted me too. But I kind of liked the side shot, it has a nice aesthetic to it. It was only the frame rate that caught me off guard
I liked it Tom, but noticed the frame rate drop too.
My question is.. I am waiting for my Prusa 2.5 upgrade.. makes you think.. why do they not include this already done and we can just also make a change on the board?
Since this printer had a ramps 1.4 and 2560, I'm assuming it is running a 12V psu? I read that these run much netter on 24V, and make a high pitched noise on 12V. Is that true?
Can these be wired up directly to an MKS v1.4 board? Bought some of these drivers a while back, had no idea how to use them until I saw this video. For some reason they came with all of the pins soldered on down, trying to figure out if I need to change that.
Do you have them running? I was also wondering about that.
It the sensorless homing compatible with the Z axis now?
Hi Tom, just going to do this on my ramps but how do you move the pin please ?
thanks you
I was looking at swapping mine out for these on my MKS Gen L board. On my printer, i have dual Z motors that are driven by the same driver. Is there anything special that needs to be done for that situation?
Appearently you can remape E1 to a second Z. I have not done this yet but thinking about it if I upgrade to 2208's.
@@ThunderPantz01 dropped in the 2130s a few weeks ago. i just ran the power a touch higher and it seems to work fine for me.
@@LordVartok Great Thanks for info!
Finally got these TMC2130 somewhat working on a GT2560 but the part at the end of this vid about the stepper motors going in one direction is whats happening now. Tried changing the Endstop_Inverting to false and it doesn't not help fix it at all. Tried multiple combinations of the Endstop_Inverting and Invert_(x, y, z)_Dir. Even tried disabling the Max Endstops and various other settings. Can't seem to find a fix. Could this be a issue with what Pins I am using for the CS? Not many choices to use on the GT2560.
Would love to see the video you mentioned on getting it to work on other pins (you showed an MKS Gen board - that's what I'd like to use it on). Really want to leave the LCD headers alone...
Looking into it a bit further - the MKS Gen has SPI available on the AUX-3 header along with two extra digital pins. AUX-2 also has 8 pins to use. Should be pretty easy.
Any plans on the "change pins on Marlin" video and save the LCD screen?
My understanding is to get these drivers into SPI mode you have to solder a couple of very small connectors together on the drivers. You didn’t do that. Are there different types of these drivers?
Good job Thomas! Thanx for giving me some new things i have to do on my printer.
Hello Thomas, shouldn't it be technically possible to auto level the hotbed with one of these drivers on the z axis? I mean with the hotend touching the hotbed as the endstop?
It wont be as accurate as a basic microswitch due to the z axis threaded rod gearing.
I just finished adding these to my Original Prusa i3 Mk2, following this guide. I had to swap the Mini Rambo board out for one that supports removable drivers - I went with a generic MKS Gen 1.4. Since the Original i3 Mk2 has an LCD, I changed the CS pins to use the board's servo pins (which I don't use): 11, 6, 5, and 4. I had to reconfigure vanilla Marlin from scratch, since the Prusa fork of Marlin is so far out of sync with vanilla, it doesn't support the 2130s (except in the Mk3 fork of course, which would have been even more work to back-port). Re-configuring vanilla Marlin from scratch for the original i3, but with a MKS Gen board ended up being the hardest part of the whole process. Once I got Marlin working using A4988's I had laying around, the rest was relatively easy. The whole process took me about 1.5 days. With a printer that has a vanilla Marlin config already, like an Anet or Creality, it probably only would have been 1/2 day. My printer went from 75 dB max during printing (as measured by an app on my phone) to 60 dB. Wow! Definitely worth it! Thanks for the awesome video, Tom!
You out there Tom? Any indication when you will have the LCD + tmc2130 video?
I have just got these genuine drivers from watterott but I am having constant overheat issues with them, even at 600mA current, also when i try to print from sd, the SPI bus goes haywire and reports all kinds of driver errors
PLEASE HELP!! I got the 2208 but what i trying to understand this driver pretty much the same features as the 2130....OR? Like the sensorless homing. This is the info i read from the seller but this option is not commented in Marlin
Hi, rewatching your video in anticipation of getting some TMC2130’s, I am getting concerned that there isn’t a guide for how to use the AUX3 in conjuncture with the LCD break out board and how exactly we are supposed to daisy chain the jumpers between each stepper, help?
If you want to use the AUX 3 for both an LCD breakout board and the TMC2130 connections then you will just have to solder the leads coming from the TMC2130's to the heads of the relevant pins on the LCD break out board. To connect multiple TMC2130's to the same pin then again you can just solder 2/3/4 leads together so they terminate in just one pin.
Thanks! That is oddly convenient haha, I’ll go try that out :D