As an old technical writer, who did many service manuals, it gladdens me that you like that service manual. I know how hard the work was to create that manual, and if the author of your manual is still with us, he/she would be glad to hear your praise. Me, I'm always glad to hear you, and really happy you are still hale in these troubled times.
Thank You. I actually considered writing directions for line of motorcycle parts. And, it's quite obvious I have a lot of respect for people who take pride in communicating well. I was actually better at this when I was younger. But I really enjoy it.
Forgot the points grease? 😂 The beauty of getting to our age is getting pleasure out of an old book that is sooo much better than an online explanation. If you are not born before the mid 50’s you just wouldn’t understand the pleasure of simple things.
I did not forget the grease. I showed it. Yah, there's lots of beauty to our age. Don't exactly know what it is. But, you bet we love those old books. And yes, I was born wayyy back there.
I can understand what you are a saying ,but I was born in 64 & i came from a reading time ,just cant see them letters anymore ,look like ants crawling across paper to me ,tho I still try with my magnifying glass,but you see i was raised by folks like yall,who believed in reading .but you can not deny the ability to watch this is just way to cool & great ,I try real hard to find all the positives of modern tech .
Hi Mike; when I used to set up points, I set the gap up first on the tip of the cam or cams, many Brit bikes where set at 15 thous. This made sure that they would never open more than the correct gap once set. After that, I did exactly what you do by selecting top gear and turning the wheel forward until the the timing mark was spot on. Then by turning the points plate plate or distributor, until the light just came on. I really love your videos, I see there are others on the net trying to jump on your band wagon, but they don't seam to be so skilled at! So thank you.
Mike, I just want to say as a mechanic living in New Zealand that I have really enjoyed watching some of your videos during our lockdown. Your presentation style is great, as is your standard of work. I was bitten by the HD bug back in the eighties, I still ride HD today. My wife and I were at the Harley museum on the last Sunday it was open this year, I need to get back there at some point and spend some quality time reading and soaking the whole scene up. Please, take care of yourself and the good people around you. It is frightening to see what is happening in the States re Covid 19. So from the Pacific down under I say take care mate and keep the shiny side up.
Thank You. I appreciate your kind words. I also appreciate your love of H.D. What's happening here, with the virus, is so confusing, I just try to keep my distance from people as much as possible. So much is political, it's hard to understand who's doing what. I wish you well. At some point, this will be over. I hope we learn something from it. For some reason, Man can't seem to learn from his own histrory.
Love your channel your the only one I’m to subscribed too, great detail. Keep it up not many of us old school wrenches around and getting less. Keep the tools clean and have a good day
Great video!!! I was taught "back in the day" how to set the point gap with a pull tab and static time with a rolling paper in case of emergency. Had to do it for a young man in Deadwood one time. It worked..
Ever use a dollar bill as a point file, it works just don't leave any of it behind. Match book for setting and coarse filing. Love the Idea of using a rolling paper to static time, I was never given that technology but enjoy watching what six volts can do.
A simple, but very often difficult job, Thanks for the pointer. My Harley was a 1974, Slightly over 74 CI engine. It was real hard to start, and idled hot. With the kelp of a tech. manual, I did the majority of the work. I just couldn't figure it out. Finally, on a road trip up the valley, took it to the Harley shop in Fresno. The mechanic listened to me, took off the cover, and lubricated the advance mechanism. Worked as it should after that. Perhaps a video on that would shed some light on such things. Sure enjoy, and learn a lot from your videos.
I think alot of us would love to see the struggle with getting the bolts loose. We could relate a little more if we seen you struggle some. Lol. Thanks for the time you do spend on things for us though. Happy 4th. And thanks to all men and women that have made and keep making this country great. All these service persons are heros, and should be the real martyrs we look up to. REAL AMERICANS NO MATTER THE COLOR. THANK YOU.
Tks Mike, I use red-tac grease on the point block-cam and point post. higher melting point and won't fly off. try it it's well worth it, helps point rubbing block last longer-points stay in-spec, longer. keep-em coming
I cut my teeth on British bikes dual points. I have done your procedure, it works great. But there is an electronic ignition available for the old timers. But for those that want the old time set up, for originality, I'm glad you are there for the guys
I run a very fancy electronic ignition on my cone motor Shovel. On my older bikes, I run single points with modern coils. British electrics? Been there, replaced it all on my British car.
Well better late than never so happy 4th of July bro. I remember learning from my uncles long ago about setting points, always dig your helpful vids Ride hard ride safe be well
A happy 4-th July to you Mike,from Sweden.We have the very special year of 2020 with the Pandominia thath had makes us to realy think about what happend in our world! I am just so plesed that you keep going with your videos......Now we had time to really make ours motor to be in the best shape:-)
I go to it. I love it. I know some of the competitors well. Most of them are amazing. Show bikes have progressed a long ways from when I was doing it. I think the bikes I do are nice. But, they're really best flying down the road.
Hello Mike. I saw in a reply that you grew up around a gas station. My last two jobs were as a fueler. At a Bus Transit Yard and one at the Airport. Needless to say, at some point I've been drenched head to toe in both gas and Diesel. Lol. 🤪💦⛽✈️🙋😅. Gotta love it!. Hope all is well and Happy Fourth. 🇺🇸🦅
Another great video. Of all the Utubes I've seen, yours are so informative and well done. Thanks so much for sharing. Question: I could not tell where exactly you placed the probe (postive end) of the test light ? Thanks again
Seen in the back mirror I had problems with the electrical of my 1971 FLH Electra Glide: I changed the old wires to new UL approved AWG12, the dashboard switch and most importantly I changed the automatic thermal fuse. Now it runs smooth again.
Good modern wire is wonderful. I think you're speaking of the circuit breaker. They get old and aren't very weather tight to begin with. Again, nothing like a "fresh" electrical system. That 71 Harley is 50 years old, no matter how well it's been taken care of. I've rewired and replaced everything on my Shovelhead a few times, and I've had it since May of 1978. It was a brand new 77 FLH. We're still in love.
@@pacificmike9501 thank you Mike for a great answer. That is the circuit breaker I am writing about and it is nothing more than an automatic thermal fuse, which is used in old American cars too. ✌️
@@pacificmike9501 BTW: should it be a 15 Amp or 30 Amp circuit breaker to a FLH Electra Glide from 1971? 😊🙏 (Specifications not available in Clymer or on the internet).
"Automatic thermal fuse" sounds good to me. It's probably the "proper term." And generally, the "main" circuit breaker is a 30. A genuine Harley Davidson (model specific) service manual has that in it. Not to be rude, I know they're expensive, but money well spent.
@@pacificmike9501 They are not expensive, from $2.25 on AliExpress to $20 in the most expensive stores, average price is $10. I didn’t know if it should be a 15A or a 30A, but I selected the 30A.
And a belated Happy 4th to you! John around the corner is still complaining about his leaky fork seals. We'll get to it and make both of you happy. Not today though.
Hello dear Mike. let me say :each of your Videos are a pleasure for me. so many things to learn about harleys. Do you remember what Theo kojak say? I'm your Fan Man.
I don't have one to do at the moment. But, given the opportunity, I usually change them over to a single point setup. The dual points work great in theory. One set of points is less than half the effort.
@@pacificmike9501 I'd be interested in swapping to a single point depending on whats involved, those drop in elctronic ignitions get more tempting by the day
I had a 1978&1/2 FXE (half way through the year HD got rid of the points and went to an electronic pick up). I remember changing over to the older point system. Don't know why, I never had a problem with the original style. My guess is not trusting dem new fangled electronics. Probably just caused myself extra work.
Hi Mike- terrific and a pleasure to watch as always. . I know you are not a fan of them, but would you consider doing a video on how you like to set a dual point ignition up? I have a 63. Bone stock. Many sincere thanks.
I normally remove them. A little too "unstable" for me. Putting in a single point distributor with a good 12 volt system would make a bone stock beautiful motorcycle even better. Good modern coil, Good modern generator with built in regulator. Sorry. I don't mean to push stuff on you. But what a neat bike if it would stay in tune and light up the road at night.
@@pacificmike9501 you are absolutely correct and I should do that. It starts with finding a single point distributor. How I rue the days when I could get one for almost nothing and I didnt.... Any recommendations on a generator make? ( I'm still 6v too....)
Hello Mike, thank your for sharing your trouble-shooting and tutorial videos, I have been watching some of them recently. However, as I am lack of deep knowledge regarding the ignition coil & distributor, would like to ask you if you can help me out... Well, the issue is I use auto advance distributor for my 1951 panhead, with aftermarket 12V ignition coil (read 3.7 ohm primary resistance as I tested it). The engine starts well, but the point of distributors gets burned after a well..., then I replaced the coil with 5 ohm one, then it goes ok without burning point. The question is, why 3.7 ohm coil will cause buring point? as far as I know anything between 2.5 to 5 ohm should be fine... or the point gets too thin to use? need your thoughts. I live in China, and very limited goods hands can be found around here... so I come to ask you. Thank you and wish you all the best. Zuo Yang
You are correct. You and I learned this one the hard way. I honestly have forgotten why the higher ohm resistance is required for points, but I know that it is. That's the difference to remember when ordering a coil. Sorry I'm not more help on that one, but it is so. I'll bet we get a better answer from one of our viewers. Thank You.
Hi Mike. Ur a good and precession bike mechanic. I have a 82 fxr that i have been working on . i love ur videos. Whats up with the project flat head bike? No new parts? I wish i could afford ur service's on my fxr shovel head.
Mike, how can I tell if a 77 FLH is early or late 77 model. Sometimes when ordering parts this comes up, especially front end. If the vin number tells this what do I look for in the vin. Thank you and Happy 4th
Okay, I'll do my best. My Shovelhead is a 1977 FLH I bought new in 1978. Other than by serial number and knowing how many were made each month, it's hard to figure out. My '77 is a late '77, so I'll tell you the differences as I know them to be. First, Harley moved up to Dot 5 brake fluid. Good idea. Don't mix 3 and 5. If your using 3, flush it out and go to 5. Next, the suspension, both front and rear was changed from HD to Showa. Showa is a Japanese manufacturer that makes all of Harley's suspension today. The only front suspension that they didn't make was the late style springers. The only other and most important change to pay attention to is the gear set in the engine. This include the pinion gear, breather gear, and cam gear. These can easily be identified. The cam gear (Late Model) has a groove cut in the face of the gear. If changing from one type to the other, the entire gear set would have to be changed. Those are the only differences that come to mind. There may be one or two others, but I don't know what they would be.
When I set mine, I use a volt ohm meter. I lock it down when it just breaks. Did you change the condenser? I only change mine if the points show burning. Great video, and Happy Independence Day my friend!
I set it with either a meter or a test light. Good condensers have become an issue. It depends on how I feel about it at the time. There are some real bad ones out there.
Mike, Great video as always. I have a question regarding timing mark. I have a 41FL knuck, my manual as you're more than aware is for sidevalve and OHV UL/FL Am I right in thinking the fully advanced mark for my fixed mag would be the same place? thank you!
You are correct. Be careful, I appreciate a mag I can retard for easier starting. But, it may be just fine as it is. There are mechanical pieces out there for retarding mags, and I mean old original style. Just remember, mags need to be set very accurately and it's a pain getting them there. But, once you've got it, it will stay that way. Also remember to gap your plugs around .019, or you'll start burning things up. Check them often. Have fun! Awesome combo!
@@pacificmike9501 Hi Mike! thanks for the reply, just wanted to make sure as I've came from a UL which is not the same. I've ran mags on all of my bikes, makes for an easier life! Thanks again sir.
Hi Mike, what end play clearance do you recommend for a Shovelhead? I enjoyed your video regarding ‘this but was unclear of what you like as a desired clearance window. Thanks
Hello Mike. I hope u had a good 4th of July. Good info. on the ignition points on the 52. My Harleys are not that old,but good to know anyway. Question : My Evo motor spits in the carb. when it's cold,runs better after halfhour or so. How important is the VOES for the motor to run nice when it is cold? I think maybe there might be airleak at intake manifold. Have a nice Sunday. "The Swede"
The VOES is almost foolproof. The best way to check for a vacuum leak on an Evo, to pull the sparkplugs and compare them. If the color match is good, no leak. If one is dark and one is light, vacuum leak. When seasons change, quite often fuel changes. Sounds like you may just need a slightly richer idle jet. Or, maybe a vacuum leak. But from the way I'm reading you, slightly larger idle jet.
@@pacificmike9501 Thank u i start with the sparkplugs tomorrow when it will be rain here on the westcoast. If u ever have some sticker or T-shirt with your logo i by some 👍. The Swede.
Happy Independence day Mike. Where/are you a motorcycle tech? Or just learned by messing with your own bikes. Would love to gain some insight on what your journey has been. I could watch your channel for hours.
I grew up in a gas station. I started building my first hod rod at age 13. I built my first Harley at age 20. I started working in Harley aftermarket shops in about the late 70's. I had my own shop for quite a few years. I am officially retired. And, there it is. I don't ever want to be referred to as a "technician." I'm just an old wrench.
Happy 4th Mr.Motorcycle. I have a 1972 FLH shovelhead, but my dad changed the frame to a jammer frame. He passed and I got I started to get interested in learning more about the bike. It has dual S&S heads. My dad friend said it’s a 93” stoker but the other friend said it’s a 96” stroker (top end). How can I tell if it’s a 93” or 96”. Also, you said your bike is your road bike. Do you ride in really hot weather? Do your bike run good in hot weather.
You'll probably have to tear it down. But, if you can copy the numbers down by looking into the window (by removing the timing plug), and check with S&S, they can probably tell you the length of the stroke. If the cylinders a very close together, probably 3 5/8 bore. Again, you'll probably have to disassemble it. Or, don't worry about it. My bike is fine in hot weather. I do run an oil cooler and I do try to be easy on her. I don't do as well with the heat as I used to.
Hey Mike I got a question I just change my oil on a 2003 Heritage softail, the oil filter runs on to my voltage Regulator,can that Short out the voltage regulator
Well, it's irritating. But the uit is sealed. There are many methods. But, it's almost always a mess. I'd call it a design flaw. And we all continue to try.
hey is that a train horn you got on her?,whatever it is looks nice ,had a train horn I used on like 6 different putts ,you lay on that thing coming up to funky looking situation @a red light & everbody just stops . what a gorgeous putt Baby doll is .
Thank You. She's a good ole girl. That is a factory accessory horrn and I've converted it to 12 volt guts. It doesn't shake the earth, but it's adequate.
I know my old "bible" is full of errors (Clymer), I've been caught out by a few of them. I was wondering if you could clarify something for me though, Mike. My 62FL has front and rear timing marks on the wheel. Obviously, this is for a dual point set-up. I'm running single points however. The book tells me to line up the marks (F & R) as you have in this video: about 1/3 of the way in the hole. But for single points to put the line right in the middle. Which is correct for a single point circuit breaker with dual point flywheel marks: center or to the right? Thanks.
Use the "F" mark and treat it as if it were the only mark you have. It is now your "advance timing Mark," as if it came from the factory with single points. It is where your points begin to open with your ignition advanced all the way. That would be with the mark to the rear of the window. If it pings, bring it a little forward, it's too far advanced.
On the Panhead, is an Akront 21X1.85 alloy rim on a reproduction star hub with Timken bearings and Buchannan polished stainless steel spokes. The "Project Bike" is getting a 19". Check out our other videos, we show quite a bit on wheels.
You have to figure out: Is there fuel in the manifold when it's hot? or Is it dry in that manifold when it's hot? Then you'll know whether to just crack the throttle to start it hot, prime it first, or open the throttle all the way.
Another thing, are your plugs fouled? Are your points in good shape and adjusted properly. Some times, it's a good idea to go through the setting procedure one more time.
Hi Mike, I hope all is well. I have a '57 Pan (FL) that is running the stock linkert carb and cam. I tell you this because an aggressive cam could change your answer to my question. I recently rebuilt the top end and had the distributor out. When I re-installed the distributor I believe I put it in with the timing mark in the center of the window rather than to the right side of the window. Would that equate to approximately one tooth out on the distributor shaft? Once I verify that is what has happened and depending on your answer I may have to pull it back out and turn the shaft a tooth or two. Second question is pertaining to pan hydraulic units in the lifters. I'm still running the originals. Over numerous years or plenty of use will the hydraulic units begin to require the pushrods to be extended a bit more due to the hydraulic units not holding as much pressure due to perhaps the check valve in them? Thanks for your time.
You really need a service manual. If your timing is off a little, it is less than a tooth. Time that distributor by rotating the head of the distributor slightly. We show this on tuning the Knucklehead. Over time valves seat deeper in the heads. That's normal wear. The lifter do get "tired" however and should be replaced. Concerning that timing, if you go to RUclips and get to the Pacific Mike Homepage, click on the word "videos", a bunch of videos will come up. Look for the ones on tuning the Knucklehead.
Hi Mike, thanks for your reply. Did my checks today and I did in fact put the distributor in correctly, as per manual. So all is good there. With regards to the hydraulic units you stated that they do get "tired". So getting back to my earlier question...will lengthening the pushrod a full turn or so compensate for a "tired" hydraulic unit? I believe the average hydraulic unit has about .190-.200" of travel from zero lash to bottoming out, so each full turn on 32 TPI adjusting screws leaves you with about 6 full turns before collapsing the hydraulic unit and after that you would be not allowing the valve to fully close.
As per the old service manual. Do a normal adjustment. Start at the beginning and go through it. It's in our videos. Always wait until the lifters bleed down before rotating the engine.
Having the timing mark there; does that mean that it fires a millisecond before TDC in effect ? I've watched so many of these with various people and still don't completely get it LOL
We're setting up a bike with points. We're setting it for it's running down the road. The timing mark is the "advance" timing mark. At speed, the points should fire at 35 degrees before top dead center. That's means it's going to fire with the piston 7/16 of an inch before it reaches the top of its travel up in the cylinder. The fuel and air mixture starts it's burn when that mark appears in the window. Again, it is the advance timing mark. It's explained pretty well in the service manual. Once it becomes clear, you'll get it.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks a lot man. I don't actually have a Harley ( l wish ) but l love watching this stuff.. I have a Honda Hawk 650. When it's running that is haha. Thanks again Mike 😊👍
Close, but we're not on the road. We have tools and time to be as accurate as possible. By the way, when's the last time you saw a matchbook? Funny, huh?
I have a 1974 harley ironhead with a magento not sure to set the points gap at .015 ) (.0018) or ???? I also spark set at .020?? I was told it does make a diffence which S.P wires goes to cylinder front or back the get different answers from youtube
Certainly, a 74 Sportster did not come with a mag. Consequently, you should contact the manufacturer of the mag for specs. Unless it is a single fire unit, the mag doesn't care which plug is which. It is very important to set the plug gap properly (probably .018). Too large a gap will burn things up.
I put a set of Blue Streak points on my 76 Shovelhead and the slots in the plate wouldn't allow it to turn far enough to get the timing right. Put the old points back in and it timed right up. You can't even trust famous brands anymore I guess...
@@pacificmike9501 actually you made my day yesterday. I honestly haven't thought about points since 70s. LOL. Your video brought back an avalanche of great memories . Being 22 not knowing nothing to 65 where I am now. Thanks. Most of the oldtimers that taught me when I was in my 20s are long gone. Nice to relive it again
Mike my name is Richard Cooper,I am looking for a wiring diagram for a 1947 knucklehead I am trying to restore this bike.i am down to the final restoration,any help would be appreciated, thank you rickety well
Hey Mike! My 1968 Harley got a Mallory ignition installed to it. Its timed properly as per the video you show here. So i got a question. If the engine runs a little to hot for my personal preferences, is that then a carb ”issue” running to lean or should i retard or advance the timing more? Iam using the s&s super e carb with the recommended settings. Have an awesome day! Best Regards David
Some things are characteristics. You can change them some, but, you learn to accept certain things. Now, these are not heavily modified engines, but my opinion based on what I've experienced. Knuckleheads run cool. Panheads run warmer than Knuckleheads. Shovelheads run warmer than Panheads. Evos run very cool. Anything newer than that is designed to run very hot in order to get complete combustion and eliminate smog emissions. I always run oil cooers on Shovelheads. The engines run cooler and make me happier.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks for the answer, i appreciate it. I think my engine gets a bit hot right now beacuse its a fresh rebuild engine. I was a bit worried that it had something to do with the timing. But ill try get some more hours of it on the road and see if it cools down a bit.
I can talk about him forever. He bleeds red, white and blue. I try to comment, I was told that it helps your channel. Rock on Mike. Hopefully my bike is ready tomorrow or Tuesday. It was the fuel strainer, which had to be ordered from out of state because no HD dealers had it in stock. See you on the road.
Well, yes, it is not a distributor. Calling it one is just slang. Harley calls it what it really is, which is a "circuit breaker." And I think you're referring to Indian which, yes, it had a real distributor. I think the old rivalry between Indian and Harley was a gas. If you go to the flatrack races today, it's started all over again. It's very cool.
I really needed this video right now mentally. Thanke Mike
Thank You.
Mike, thank you for sharing all your knowledge and skill with us. We really do appreciate it. All the best to you and yours
Same to you!
THANK YOU...for sharing. I trust everyone had a wonderful 4th. Nice video.
Thank You.
I liked the video on the tire balancing. Thanks for the lesson. Mel
Glad it was helpful!
As an old technical writer, who did many service manuals, it gladdens me that you like that service manual. I know how hard the work was to create that manual, and if the author of your manual is still with us, he/she would be glad to hear your praise. Me, I'm always glad to hear you, and really happy you are still hale in these troubled times.
Thank You. I actually considered writing directions for line of motorcycle parts. And, it's quite obvious I have a lot of respect for people who take pride in communicating well. I was actually better at this when I was younger. But I really enjoy it.
Forgot the points grease? 😂
The beauty of getting to our age is getting pleasure out of an old book that is sooo much better than an online explanation. If you are not born before the mid 50’s you just wouldn’t understand the pleasure of simple things.
I did not forget the grease. I showed it. Yah, there's lots of beauty to our age. Don't exactly know what it is. But, you bet we love those old books. And yes, I was born wayyy back there.
I can understand what you are a saying ,but I was born in 64 & i came from a reading time ,just cant see them letters anymore ,look like ants crawling across paper to me ,tho I still try with my magnifying glass,but you see i was raised by folks like yall,who believed in reading .but you can not deny the ability to watch this is just way to cool & great ,I try real hard to find all the positives of modern tech .
Hi Mike; when I used to set up points, I set the gap up first on the tip of the cam or cams, many Brit bikes where set at 15 thous.
This made sure that they would never open more than the correct gap once set. After that, I did exactly what you do by selecting top gear and turning
the wheel forward until the the timing mark was spot on. Then by turning the points plate plate or distributor, until the light just came on.
I really love your videos, I see there are others on the net trying to jump on your band wagon, but they don't seam to be so skilled at! So thank you.
Thank You. Some of those old British bike were awesome.
Mike, I just want to say as a mechanic living in New Zealand that I have really enjoyed watching some of your videos during our lockdown. Your presentation style is great, as is your standard of work. I was bitten by the HD bug back in the eighties, I still ride HD today. My wife and I were at the Harley museum on the last Sunday it was open this year, I need to get back there at some point and spend some quality time reading and soaking the whole scene up. Please, take care of yourself and the good people around you. It is frightening to see what is happening in the States re Covid 19. So from the Pacific down under I say take care mate and keep the shiny side up.
Thank You. I appreciate your kind words. I also appreciate your love of H.D. What's happening here, with the virus, is so confusing, I just try to keep my distance from people as much as possible. So much is political, it's hard to understand who's doing what. I wish you well. At some point, this will be over. I hope we learn something from it. For some reason, Man can't seem to learn from his own histrory.
Crazy good channel from a huge expert, thank you Mike 👌✌️🙏
Glad you think so!
Mike just wanted to say I enjoy your videos keep them coming.
You got it! Thank You for watching.
Love your channel your the only one I’m to subscribed too, great detail. Keep it up not many of us old school wrenches around and getting less. Keep the tools clean and have a good day
Thank You. And, backatcha.
Just want to say thanks for all your effort
My pleasure!
Great video!!! I was taught "back in the day" how to set the point gap with a pull tab and static time with a rolling paper in case of emergency. Had to do it for a young man in Deadwood one time. It worked..
Pulltabs are still a new developement. We are a funny bunch, huh?
@@pacificmike9501 Never a dull moment!!!!
Ever use a dollar bill as a point file, it works just don't leave any of it behind.
Match book for setting and coarse filing.
Love the Idea of using a rolling paper to static time, I was never given that technology but enjoy watching what six volts can do.
I sure am glad I stumbled on to Pacific Mike!! 👍
Thank You. I'm glad you did too.
Another good one, Mike!
Glad you enjoyed it
your the Mr Roberts voice of mechanics....thank you
Wow, thanks
fantastic video , installed 2000 i on my 93 evo . love it !
Very cool!
Happy Independence Day Mike! Thank you for posting your videos; they are a great inspiration to the Pursuit Of Happiness. Enjoy!
Happy holidays!
A simple, but very often difficult job, Thanks for the pointer.
My Harley was a 1974, Slightly over 74 CI engine. It was real hard to start, and idled hot. With the kelp of a tech. manual, I did the majority of the work. I just couldn't figure it out. Finally, on a road trip up the valley, took it to the Harley shop in Fresno. The mechanic listened to me, took off the cover, and lubricated the advance mechanism. Worked as it should after that.
Perhaps a video on that would shed some light on such things.
Sure enjoy, and learn a lot from your videos.
Yes, I will have one of my buddy's bring one over. There's a bunch of simple little tricks to be done there.
All the best Mike. Enjoyed the upload. Stay safe my friend
Thanks, you too!
Happy 4th. Mike !!!
Always glad to find a new video from you.
🇺🇸 🏍SARGE🏍 🇺🇸
Thank You.
Yes, a very happy 4th to you. See you on the road. Love your videos.
Thank you! You too!
I think alot of us would love to see the struggle with getting the bolts loose. We could relate a little more if we seen you struggle some. Lol. Thanks for the time you do spend on things for us though. Happy 4th. And thanks to all men and women that have made and keep making this country great. All these service persons are heros, and should be the real martyrs we look up to. REAL AMERICANS NO MATTER THE COLOR. THANK YOU.
Very well put. And I Thank You.
Happy July 4ths. Hope it’s great for you and God Bless y’all and enjoy your show thanks for sharing
Thanks so much
Thanks Mike great video 😎
Glad you enjoyed it
Tks Mike, I use red-tac grease on the point block-cam and point post. higher melting point and won't fly off. try it it's well worth it, helps point rubbing block last longer-points stay in-spec, longer. keep-em coming
Good stuff. Thank You
Happy 4th Mike and thanks for the great videos! I learn a lot from them!
Glad you like them!
And, a Happy 4th to you!
I cut my teeth on British bikes dual points. I have done your procedure, it works great. But there is an electronic ignition available for the old timers. But for those that want the old time set up, for originality, I'm glad you are there for the guys
I run a very fancy electronic ignition on my cone motor Shovel. On my older bikes, I run single points with modern coils. British electrics? Been there, replaced it all on my British car.
Happy fourth of July Mike I have learned so much from you and love all your videos.
Same to you! And, Thank You.
Same to you mike love your videos
Thank You.
Happy 4 mike great video
Thanks! You too!
He is very informative and explains well sounds a little bit like Mr Rogers but that's cool. I appreciate his knowledge it helps me a lot thank you
Thank You.
Happy 4th of July Mike! Just wanted to say that I also enjoy your show.
Thank You. And the same to you.
Thank you for another Great Video
Thanks for watching!
Hi Mike I hope you had a great 4th of July. I enjoy these quick to the point tutorials Cheers from Down Under where crows fly backward.
Thanks, you too!
Happy Patriots Day to you Mike and camera man Mike. Another great video from you.
Thanks! You too!
👍
Well better late than never so happy 4th of July bro. I remember learning from my uncles long ago about setting points, always dig your helpful vids
Ride hard ride safe be well
Same to you!
Happy 4th of July Mike, thanks for sharing 👍
Same to you!
Same to you Mike! Happy 4th
Thank You.
A happy 4-th July to you Mike,from Sweden.We have the very special year of 2020 with the Pandominia thath had makes us to realy think about what happend in our world!
I am just so plesed that you keep going with your videos......Now we had time to really make ours motor to be in the best shape:-)
And a Happy one to you. Thank You for helping me to "Keep Looking On The Bright Side." It's obviously our job.
Mike happy 4th to you as well i remember coming by your shop in slo after work and hanging out , been awhile , keep up the videos brother ! Kurt
Happy 4th to you Kurt! Great to hear from you! I hope all is well.
Your awesome Mike,..they should invite you to the born free competition, just a thought. Keep on keeping on.
I go to it. I love it. I know some of the competitors well. Most of them are amazing. Show bikes have progressed a long ways from when I was doing it. I think the bikes I do are nice. But, they're really best flying down the road.
enjoyed. thank you 👌🏾👌🏾
Hello Mike. I saw in a reply that you grew up around a gas station. My last two jobs were as a fueler. At a Bus Transit Yard and one at the Airport. Needless to say, at some point I've been drenched head to toe in both gas and Diesel. Lol. 🤪💦⛽✈️🙋😅. Gotta love it!. Hope all is well and Happy Fourth. 🇺🇸🦅
Thanks for sharing! And, Happy Fourth to you.
Thanks Mike.
Thank You.
Would love to see you go over something like this on a magneto bike
It will happen. But, it won't happen until we have one here to do, or when I install one on the project bike.
Happy 4th of July great video
Same to you!
Happy 4th July and greetings from Sweden!
Thank You. And, Greetings to you.
Happy late fourth brother...
And, backatcha! Thank You.
Pacific Mike.... What Bob Ross was for painting is You for Harleys😂
Thank You. Kind words.
Hope you had a good 4th of July Mike.
And I hope you did. Thank You.
Happy 4th of July Mike!
Backatcha
Happy Fourth of July to you sir. I hope you are making headway with finding a seat cover for that seat you painstakingly installed.
Happy Fourth of July to you. It needs a skirt, but it's already been upholstere in leather.
Another great video. Of all the Utubes I've seen, yours are so informative and well done. Thanks so much for sharing. Question: I could not tell where exactly you placed the probe (postive end) of the test light ? Thanks again
Almost anywere on the points assembly. Just poke around, you'll find it. Thank You.
Seen in the back mirror I had problems with the electrical of my 1971 FLH Electra Glide:
I changed the old wires to new UL approved AWG12, the dashboard switch and most importantly I changed the automatic thermal fuse.
Now it runs smooth again.
Good modern wire is wonderful. I think you're speaking of the circuit breaker. They get old and aren't very weather tight to begin with. Again, nothing like a "fresh" electrical system. That 71 Harley is 50 years old, no matter how well it's been taken care of. I've rewired and replaced everything on my Shovelhead a few times, and I've had it since May of 1978. It was a brand new 77 FLH. We're still in love.
@@pacificmike9501 thank you Mike for a great answer. That is the circuit breaker I am writing about and it is nothing more than an automatic thermal fuse, which is used in old American cars too. ✌️
@@pacificmike9501 BTW: should it be a 15 Amp or 30 Amp circuit breaker to a FLH Electra Glide from 1971?
😊🙏
(Specifications not available in Clymer or on the internet).
"Automatic thermal fuse" sounds good to me. It's probably the "proper term." And generally, the "main" circuit breaker is a 30. A genuine Harley Davidson (model specific) service manual has that in it. Not to be rude, I know they're expensive, but money well spent.
@@pacificmike9501 They are not expensive, from $2.25 on AliExpress to $20 in the most expensive stores, average price is $10.
I didn’t know if it should be a 15A or a 30A, but I selected the 30A.
Happy late 4th Mike...be safe..👍👍. Lets do fork seals...😎
And a belated Happy 4th to you! John around the corner is still complaining about his leaky fork seals. We'll get to it and make both of you happy. Not today though.
Pacific Mike 👍🤣
Happy July 4TH Mike!
HAPPY BIRTHDAY AMERICA!
Support and Defend our Country & Constitution!
Thank You. And Amen to that.
Good morning , Happy 4 to you . Time to get some education and 420 . 🔱🏴☠️🏴☠️ SEMPER FORTIS 🏴☠️FLY NAVY 🏴☠️🏴☠️🔱
Thank You. And, Happy 4th to you.
Hello dear Mike. let me say :each of your Videos are a pleasure for me. so many things to learn about harleys. Do you remember what Theo kojak say? I'm your Fan Man.
That's awesome. Thank You.
I like that term chopperized
Okay, fine by me.
would love to see a video of how to setup the Dual point setup on my 64 DuoGlide
I don't have one to do at the moment. But, given the opportunity, I usually change them over to a single point setup. The dual points work great in theory. One set of points is less than half the effort.
@@pacificmike9501 I'd be interested in swapping to a single point depending on whats involved, those drop in elctronic ignitions get more tempting by the day
I had a 1978&1/2 FXE (half way through the year HD got rid of the points and went to an electronic pick up). I remember changing over to the older point system. Don't know why, I never had a problem with the original style. My guess is not trusting dem new fangled electronics. Probably just caused myself extra work.
You were right. The early electronics did not stand up too well. It took me a long timee to trust them. They are now quite good.
Hi Mike- terrific and a pleasure to watch as always. . I know you are not a fan of them, but would you consider doing a video on how you like to set a dual point ignition up? I have a 63. Bone stock.
Many sincere thanks.
I normally remove them. A little too "unstable" for me. Putting in a single point distributor with a good 12 volt system would make a bone stock beautiful motorcycle even better. Good modern coil, Good modern generator with built in regulator. Sorry. I don't mean to push stuff on you. But what a neat bike if it would stay in tune and light up the road at night.
@@pacificmike9501 you are absolutely correct and I should do that. It starts with finding a single point distributor.
How I rue the days when I could get one for almost nothing and I didnt....
Any recommendations on a generator make? ( I'm still 6v too....)
The ones on my old bikes are Cycle Electric.
@@pacificmike9501 thanks very much. You are a class act!
Hello Mike, thank your for sharing your trouble-shooting and tutorial videos, I have been watching some of them recently. However, as I am lack of deep knowledge regarding the ignition coil & distributor, would like to ask you if you can help me out... Well, the issue is I use auto advance distributor for my 1951 panhead, with aftermarket 12V ignition coil (read 3.7 ohm primary resistance as I tested it). The engine starts well, but the point of distributors gets burned after a well..., then I replaced the coil with 5 ohm one, then it goes ok without burning point. The question is, why 3.7 ohm coil will cause buring point? as far as I know anything between 2.5 to 5 ohm should be fine... or the point gets too thin to use? need your thoughts. I live in China, and very limited goods hands can be found around here... so I come to ask you. Thank you and wish you all the best. Zuo Yang
You are correct. You and I learned this one the hard way. I honestly have forgotten why the higher ohm resistance is required for points, but I know that it is. That's the difference to remember when ordering a coil. Sorry I'm not more help on that one, but it is so. I'll bet we get a better answer from one of our viewers. Thank You.
Hi Mike. Ur a good and precession bike mechanic. I have a 82 fxr that i have been working on . i love ur videos. Whats up with the project flat head bike? No new parts? I wish i could afford ur service's on my fxr shovel head.
Thank You. I'm waiting for the front end to come back from the frame shop. Money has gotten unexpectedly tight. You know, life.
Mike, how can I tell if a 77 FLH is early or late 77 model. Sometimes when ordering parts this comes up, especially front end. If the vin number tells this what do I look for in the vin. Thank you and Happy 4th
Okay, I'll do my best. My Shovelhead is a 1977 FLH I bought new in 1978. Other than by serial number and knowing how many were made each month, it's hard to figure out. My '77 is a late '77, so I'll tell you the differences as I know them to be. First, Harley moved up to Dot 5 brake fluid. Good idea. Don't mix 3 and 5. If your using 3, flush it out and go to 5. Next, the suspension, both front and rear was changed from HD to Showa. Showa is a Japanese manufacturer that makes all of Harley's suspension today. The only front suspension that they didn't make was the late style springers. The only other and most important change to pay attention to is the gear set in the engine. This include the pinion gear, breather gear, and cam gear. These can easily be identified. The cam gear (Late Model) has a groove cut in the face of the gear. If changing from one type to the other, the entire gear set would have to be changed. Those are the only differences that come to mind. There may be one or two others, but I don't know what they would be.
When I set mine, I use a volt ohm meter. I lock it down when it just breaks. Did you change the condenser? I only change mine if the points show burning. Great video, and Happy Independence Day my friend!
I set it with either a meter or a test light. Good condensers have become an issue. It depends on how I feel about it at the time. There are some real bad ones out there.
Mike,
Great video as always. I have a question regarding timing mark. I have a 41FL knuck, my manual as you're more than aware is for sidevalve and OHV UL/FL Am I right in thinking the fully advanced mark for my fixed mag would be the same place? thank you!
You are correct. Be careful, I appreciate a mag I can retard for easier starting. But, it may be just fine as it is. There are mechanical pieces out there for retarding mags, and I mean old original style. Just remember, mags need to be set very accurately and it's a pain getting them there. But, once you've got it, it will stay that way. Also remember to gap your plugs around .019, or you'll start burning things up. Check them often. Have fun! Awesome combo!
@@pacificmike9501 Hi Mike! thanks for the reply, just wanted to make sure as I've came from a UL which is not the same. I've ran mags on all of my bikes, makes for an easier life! Thanks again sir.
Hi Mike, what end play clearance do you recommend for a Shovelhead?
I enjoyed your video regarding ‘this but was unclear of what you like as a desired clearance window. Thanks
What year? Early (generator type), go by the book. Cone motor, I like eleven to fourteen.
Thanks Mike, it’s a 78 cone, I’m at 12 right now so I’ll call it good, thank you!
Have you ever considered upgraded to the electronic style ignition?
Please look at our videos. We do both.
Hello Mike. I hope u had a good 4th of July. Good info. on the ignition points on the 52. My Harleys are not that old,but good to know anyway. Question : My Evo motor spits in the carb. when it's cold,runs better after halfhour or so. How important is the VOES for the motor to run nice when it is cold? I think maybe there might be airleak at intake manifold. Have a nice Sunday. "The Swede"
The VOES is almost foolproof. The best way to check for a vacuum leak on an Evo, to pull the sparkplugs and compare them. If the color match is good, no leak. If one is dark and one is light, vacuum leak. When seasons change, quite often fuel changes. Sounds like you may just need a slightly richer idle jet. Or, maybe a vacuum leak. But from the way I'm reading you, slightly larger idle jet.
@@pacificmike9501 Thank u i start with the sparkplugs tomorrow when it will be rain here on the westcoast. If u ever have some sticker or T-shirt with your logo i by some 👍. The Swede.
Happy Independence day Mike. Where/are you a motorcycle tech? Or just learned by messing with your own bikes. Would love to gain some insight on what your journey has been. I could watch your channel for hours.
I grew up in a gas station. I started building my first hod rod at age 13. I built my first Harley at age 20. I started working in Harley aftermarket shops in about the late 70's. I had my own shop for quite a few years. I am officially retired. And, there it is. I don't ever want to be referred to as a "technician." I'm just an old wrench.
And, Happy Independence Day to you!
Happy 4th Mr.Motorcycle. I have a 1972 FLH shovelhead, but my dad changed the frame to a jammer frame. He passed and I got I started to get interested in learning more about the bike. It has dual S&S heads. My dad friend said it’s a 93” stoker but the other friend said it’s a 96” stroker (top end). How can I tell if it’s a 93” or 96”.
Also, you said your bike is your road bike. Do you ride in really hot weather? Do your bike run good in hot weather.
You'll probably have to tear it down. But, if you can copy the numbers down by looking into the window (by removing the timing plug), and check with S&S, they can probably tell you the length of the stroke. If the cylinders a very close together, probably 3 5/8 bore. Again, you'll probably have to disassemble it. Or, don't worry about it. My bike is fine in hot weather. I do run an oil cooler and I do try to be easy on her. I don't do as well with the heat as I used to.
Pacific Mike Thanks Mr.Mike. I’m going to do this. Just love your videos
First! Nice work, Mike! Happy 4th!
Thank You.
Hi Mike really enjoy all your videos. Question??? What engine oil do you use in your bikes and why? Thanks, Jonny V
I don't push brands, but I generally run 20/50.
@@pacificmike9501 OK. Thanks for the reply.
Really enjoy the videos. Please keep making them.
Happy 4th of July
And a Happy 4th of July to you.
Hey Mike I got a question I just change my oil on a 2003 Heritage softail, the oil filter runs on to my voltage Regulator,can that Short out the voltage regulator
Well, it's irritating. But the uit is sealed. There are many methods. But, it's almost always a mess. I'd call it a design flaw. And we all continue to try.
@@pacificmike9501 pulled the plug apart and oil came out and bike will not start, like battery is dead,replace feb 2020
hey is that a train horn you got on her?,whatever it is looks nice ,had a train horn I used on like 6 different putts ,you lay on that thing coming up to funky looking situation @a red light & everbody just stops .
what a gorgeous putt Baby doll is .
Thank You. She's a good ole girl. That is a factory accessory horrn and I've converted it to 12 volt guts. It doesn't shake the earth, but it's adequate.
I know my old "bible" is full of errors (Clymer), I've been caught out by a few of them. I was wondering
if you could clarify something for me though, Mike.
My 62FL has front and rear timing marks on the wheel. Obviously, this is for a dual point set-up. I'm
running single points however. The book tells me to line up the marks (F & R) as you have in this
video: about 1/3 of the way in the hole. But for single points to put the line right in the middle.
Which is correct for a single point circuit breaker with dual point flywheel marks: center or to the right?
Thanks.
Use the "F" mark and treat it as if it were the only mark you have. It is now your "advance timing Mark," as if it came from the factory with single points. It is where your points begin to open with your ignition advanced all the way. That would be with the mark to the rear of the window. If it pings, bring it a little forward, it's too far advanced.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks, Mike. I'll take a look at it. I might be a tad retarded. Boy, THAT didn't sound right, heh.
Do you have a video about 1926 Harley doing the cincronism of valves gears?
Sorry. I never got the opportunity to learn J-Models.
Thanks Mike
mike, what size front rim u got on her 21 or 19
On the Panhead, is an Akront 21X1.85 alloy rim on a reproduction star hub with Timken bearings and Buchannan polished stainless steel spokes. The "Project Bike" is getting a 19". Check out our other videos, we show quite a bit on wheels.
Hey Mike love the videos ,how do I send in a question
Just like you sent in this comment. Glad you're enjoying our efforts.
How are you on 3 brush generators?
I usually change the system to a 12 volt generator with a built in regulator. Rebuilding generators isn't nearly as necessary as it used to be.
Should you replace the condensor?
My problem is buying faulty condensers. I have a tendency to not replace them every time I replace points.
Question for you Mike, I have a 1951 Pan that starts right up when it’s cold. When she is warm it is very hard to start,any thoughts?
You have to figure out: Is there fuel in the manifold when it's hot? or Is it dry in that manifold when it's hot? Then you'll know whether to just crack the throttle to start it hot, prime it first, or open the throttle all the way.
Another thing, are your plugs fouled? Are your points in good shape and adjusted properly. Some times, it's a good idea to go through the setting procedure one more time.
Hi Mike, I hope all is well. I have a '57 Pan (FL) that is running the stock linkert carb and cam. I tell you this because an aggressive cam could change your answer to my question. I recently rebuilt the top end and had the distributor out. When I re-installed the distributor I believe I put it in with the timing mark in the center of the window rather than to the right side of the window. Would that equate to approximately one tooth out on the distributor shaft? Once I verify that is what has happened and depending on your answer I may have to pull it back out and turn the shaft a tooth or two. Second question is pertaining to pan hydraulic units in the lifters. I'm still running the originals. Over numerous years or plenty of use will the hydraulic units begin to require the pushrods to be extended a bit more due to the hydraulic units not holding as much pressure due to perhaps the check valve in them? Thanks for your time.
You really need a service manual. If your timing is off a little, it is less than a tooth. Time that distributor by rotating the head of the distributor slightly. We show this on tuning the Knucklehead. Over time valves seat deeper in the heads. That's normal wear. The lifter do get "tired" however and should be replaced. Concerning that timing, if you go to RUclips and get to the Pacific Mike Homepage, click on the word "videos", a bunch of videos will come up. Look for the ones on tuning the Knucklehead.
Hi Mike, thanks for your reply. Did my checks today and I did in fact put the distributor in correctly, as per manual. So all is good there. With regards to the hydraulic units you stated that they do get "tired". So getting back to my earlier question...will lengthening the pushrod a full turn or so compensate for a "tired" hydraulic unit? I believe the average hydraulic unit has about .190-.200" of travel from zero lash to bottoming out, so each full turn on 32 TPI adjusting screws leaves you with about 6 full turns before collapsing the hydraulic unit and after that you would be not allowing the valve to fully close.
As per the old service manual. Do a normal adjustment. Start at the beginning and go through it. It's in our videos. Always wait until the lifters bleed down before rotating the engine.
Having the timing mark there; does that mean that it fires a millisecond before TDC in effect ? I've watched so many of these with various people and still don't completely get it LOL
We're setting up a bike with points. We're setting it for it's running down the road. The timing mark is the "advance" timing mark. At speed, the points should fire at 35 degrees before top dead center. That's means it's going to fire with the piston 7/16 of an inch before it reaches the top of its travel up in the cylinder. The fuel and air mixture starts it's burn when that mark appears in the window. Again, it is the advance timing mark. It's explained pretty well in the service manual. Once it becomes clear, you'll get it.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks a lot man. I don't actually have a Harley ( l wish ) but l love watching this stuff.. I have a Honda Hawk 650. When it's running that is haha. Thanks again Mike 😊👍
Point gap match book cover.
Close, but we're not on the road. We have tools and time to be as accurate as possible. By the way, when's the last time you saw a matchbook? Funny, huh?
Happy July 4th everyone stay safe.
Thank You. And you too.
I have a 1974 harley ironhead with a magento not sure to set the points gap at .015 ) (.0018) or ???? I also spark set at .020?? I was told it does make a diffence which S.P wires goes to cylinder front or back the get different answers from youtube
Certainly, a 74 Sportster did not come with a mag. Consequently, you should contact the manufacturer of the mag for specs. Unless it is a single fire unit, the mag doesn't care which plug is which. It is very important to set the plug gap properly (probably .018). Too large a gap will burn things up.
thank you very much I love you channel
Thank You.
I put a set of Blue Streak points on my 76 Shovelhead and the slots in the plate wouldn't allow it to turn far enough to get the timing right. Put the old points back in and it timed right up. You can't even trust famous brands anymore I guess...
Those Blue Streak points weren't intended to go there. They just happen to fit in place.
Something to be said for us old dudes
Yah, we're old. Just joking. I'm adjusted to being me.
@@pacificmike9501 actually you made my day yesterday. I honestly haven't thought about points since 70s. LOL. Your video brought back an avalanche of great memories . Being 22 not knowing nothing to 65 where I am now. Thanks. Most of the oldtimers that taught me when I was in my 20s are long gone. Nice to relive it again
how do you get to the screw on the condensor
Short (stubby) screwdriver.
@@pacificmike9501 no room tried offset as well
oh guess difference is looking at yours my flh heads have more fins means less room
Mike my name is Richard Cooper,I am looking for a wiring diagram for a 1947 knucklehead I am trying to restore this bike.i am down to the final restoration,any help would be appreciated, thank you rickety well
I believe V-Twin in New York (Tedd Cycle) sells them (complete cloth harness) to all of the aftermarket shops.
Pacific Mike mike thank you so much for your help on the wording. Richard Cooper
Hey Mike!
My 1968 Harley got a Mallory ignition installed to it. Its timed properly as per the video you show here. So i got a question. If the engine runs a little to hot for my personal preferences, is that then a carb ”issue” running to lean or should i retard or advance the timing more? Iam using the s&s super e carb with the recommended settings. Have an awesome day! Best Regards David
Some things are characteristics. You can change them some, but, you learn to accept certain things. Now, these are not heavily modified engines, but my opinion based on what I've experienced. Knuckleheads run cool. Panheads run warmer than Knuckleheads. Shovelheads run warmer than Panheads. Evos run very cool. Anything newer than that is designed to run very hot in order to get complete combustion and eliminate smog emissions. I always run oil cooers on Shovelheads. The engines run cooler and make me happier.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks for the answer, i appreciate it. I think my engine gets a bit hot right now beacuse its a fresh rebuild engine. I was a bit worried that it had something to do with the timing. But ill try get some more hours of it on the road and see if it cools down a bit.
I have a grandson born on the 4th of July. I still can’t believe that someone gave you a 👎🏽
I thank you. But, I'd rather think about your grandson. That's very cool. He's a "Real Live Nephew of His Uncle Sam."
I can talk about him forever. He bleeds red, white and blue. I try to comment, I was told that it helps your channel. Rock on Mike. Hopefully my bike is ready tomorrow or Tuesday. It was the fuel strainer, which had to be ordered from out of state because no HD dealers had it in stock. See you on the road.
Chevy 6 clyilinder blue streak
Kinda. But, it will do.
☮☮☮☮☮☮
Thank You.
In time it is 350 single cilinder
Okay.
Timer not distributer ,brand X had disturbers ,however they really are not motorcycles !
Well, yes, it is not a distributor. Calling it one is just slang. Harley calls it what it really is, which is a "circuit breaker." And I think you're referring to Indian which, yes, it had a real distributor. I think the old rivalry between Indian and Harley was a gas. If you go to the flatrack races today, it's started all over again. It's very cool.