Starting to print bigger items that need extra stability, and omg is this a lifesaver. I always manually did it without realizing the slicer could do it for me. Thank you so much for the guide!
Bravo. I can't believe the button is right there; I had been agonizing on how to do this with negative parts or something else. I guess I just looked right through that button.
This is pretty much exactly what I was looking for but I didn’t know how to word it for googling, so thank you RUclips recommendations for once LOL, good video
Thank you so much for this!! I was wondering where this new feature was located. To top it off you actually printed the item and showed how it came out, bravo! This channel is so under-rated.
These quick tutorials are very helpful to new users! Thank you! :) Also, quick tip: If you plan to print these sequentially on the same plate, don't center them both. Keep one off center so you don't have to reapply glue stick! :)
Have I helped you? Help ME continue this channel with some support: TIP: Click the "THANKS" button Become a RUclips Member, by clicking "JOIN" Support my Patreon: patreon.com/3drundown Amazon: amzn.to/2miGQq9 Creality: shrsl.com/4rq1k Bambu Lab: shrsl.com/46lky Anycubic: shrsl.com/4gssz Prusa: www.prusa3d.com/#a_aid=3DRundown Biqu/BTT: shrsl.com/4l9jz Sovol: shrsl.com/4l9k2f Sunlu: bit.ly/413z6xq FlexiSpot Desks: shrsl.com/4mffm XTOOL: bit.ly/4g54UX3 3DOODLER: shrsl.com/4ro8d
Nice, literally served a head on a platter there. :) This was one feature of the slicer that I did not get to yet, so awesome to learn to know yet another great feature. Definitely need to try this out.
VERY VERY HELPFUL, if I scale the figure to a larger size, is the union or the tolerances maintained or would I have to make the cuts with the final print size?
Awesome video thanks Question after you spilt and you send the other part to a new bed , can you save this and print later for if you have the one printer ? Im currently working on some decor display pieces. Ive drawn a stand / base on them just working out the best way to print. I.e the design and the base separately. Thanks
Great video!!! I just have one question. I cut items to eliminate the purge block hight and waste. When I cut the item all colors go away. Is there a way to return the colors without haven’t to paint the object?
Need to make sure Advanced Mode is toggled or option doesn't appear in tool bar. This crashes on current version of Orca on MacOS if you click the right mouse button while trying to set up the cut. And you can't type the angle of rotation for each axis as shown in this video.
Does anyone know which key I have to hold while rotating the axis for it to lock at the increments for eg. every 5 degrees and so on? Because manually doing so is a pain. And btw great video
@3DRundown thx I've tired several ways And can't find one so I did it different way. As dowel or pins need be centered, so when together it's can be rotated. Thx again your videos are great learning tool
@3DRundown just made a video. It's about 6mins , being an old dude I don't edit. And have other topics on my page. That being said I used tinkercad. Maybe other sites more functions etc. But tinkercad is good for myself. I'll post link when it's uploaded
Is there a way to make the peg a separate item I can install after? So basically a void for the peg on each side, then I can glue the peg into either side with glue. I am printing things I’d like to keep flat while printing and the peg sticking out prohibits that. Thanks for the video!
Cut the object and check the option ‘cut to parts’. In the objects tabs, change the infill. There maybe something you can do with "‘Add Modifiers’ but I am still learning this
Is there a way to do this wiithout the peg becoming an integral part of one of the other halves? To print the peg as a separate object? Edit: Nevermind, that's what a "dowel" connector is! Sorry!
Ok, did you test fit the two pieces before you applied the E6000? If not, are the tolerances between the peg and the hole that precise? I assume they can be adjusted but maybe they don't need to be?
Super tight. I didn't even have to glue it. They Snapped together. I would actually prefer a touch more wiggle room, but, yea, it was pretty spot on. I always use glue, but I'm certain I didn't even have to in this case. When I peg them manually in mesh mixer, I leave a little extra wiggle room, for glue, and so I don't need to apply any pressure for them too fit. There are lot's of adjustments that can be made, but, here I just wanted to demonstrate the basics, to get people started.
What happens if you dont use a connector and just leave it assembled with the cut? Trying to print miniature with a different colored base from the figure that stands on it. I was hoping that it wouldnt need a peg and would just print in 2 colors, one on top of the other and stick
Sure. But if using Multi-Color, I wouldn't. It would be swapping color every layer. There are ways to print one model at a time, but that presents a few new things to learn
hello and thank you, but how can I do the opposite? Some miniatures are in several files and if you import them all at once on the board, they won't fit together. Others assemble automatically. I don't know where the instruction is in the files that makes some assemble and not others. Renaming it doesn't change anything. Thanks for your help.
@@3DRundown Hello, figurines are broken down into several files. Head, body, legs, arms, hat, etc. When all the files are placed on the bed at the same time, they are combined for printing into a single complete figure. But other figures don't come together when you drop them on the bed. They have to be printed separately, and then glued back together after printing. I don't know where the instruction is in the files that makes them assemble automatically, or not. I can't give you the links to these files here. Do you understand me? Thank you for your understanding.
@@3DRundown Kool - thanks for the response - I will research the others - for now, I only have a resin printer; I do plan to get a FDM soon. I still have a lot to learn. By the way - KUDOS to you on setting up a mod touch screen for the B/L P1P & P1S - the mod would make these printers more attractive to buy - Excellent Job!
Hi. You can actually see most of my settings on the left side in the video. Which settings you most interested in? I start with 0.2, usually slow things down. Set my infill and such. Typically 8-10ish
I was to try this. Just to confirm, u printed one then loaded the next print or after the first one is done u remove the part and it continues to print the next or another step is needed to print second part ?
It doesnt work for me i do exactly as you but my upper half just keeps disappearing no matter what i do. I even tried 3 different version of orca and nothing. This is infuriating tbh
if you need to change filament color, you can just select the object and type the associated number. it's a lot faster and easier. Why the filament color is always at the bottom of the menu when using a mouse is beyond me.
I still don’t know how to start my own project. Every video I watched and ask how to start an object from scratch, there isn’t one video out there. I searched about 5 dozen web sites and on RUclips and I can’t find nothing. They all show pre installed programs in their printers. And not one video shows how to start an project from scratch. So I guess I’m stuck with a $700.00 POS.
I was going to pass on helping you, after your Toxic last sentence, but, your post is so confusing, I just have to hear more. I don't understand what you are trying to do. Are you trying to MAKE a 3D Model? Bambu Studio is a SLICER, not a 3D Modeling program. 3D Modeling is done in Tinkercad, Fusion 360, Blender, and others. There are countless tutorials on those. Bambu Studio, is a SLICER, for creating a gcode out of an STL file. Sounds like you have ALLOT of learning to do, on 3D Printing... and if you want to MODEL, that's a whole entire new complex world
I've been looking for this sort of tutorial for so long. Thank you!
Starting to print bigger items that need extra stability, and omg is this a lifesaver. I always manually did it without realizing the slicer could do it for me. Thank you so much for the guide!
Thanks! Just what I needed.
Bravo. I can't believe the button is right there; I had been agonizing on how to do this with negative parts or something else. I guess I just looked right through that button.
This has changed my life.
Me too!! What a pain it used to be
This is pretty much exactly what I was looking for but I didn’t know how to word it for googling, so thank you RUclips recommendations for once LOL, good video
Short and to the point. Much appreciated!
Thank you so much for this!! I was wondering where this new feature was located. To top it off you actually printed the item and showed how it came out, bravo! This channel is so under-rated.
Thanks so much. I've had this on my to-do for a while. Previous methods REALLY sucked. This is a game changer. Thanks for being here. 🤜🏼🤛🏼
Good tip, Subscribed, keep 'em coming! Thanks.
Very simply demonstrated. Cheers from the U.K.
Greetings from across the pond in NJ, USA
Thank you, just what I needed for a project I'm working on for the USS Cod Submarine Memorial in Cleveland Ohio.
oh thank goodness. I hadn't done this in a while and legitimately couldn't remember how!
thanks for sharing this, it's exactly what i needed. always wondered how you got good orientation when splitting parts, those pegs are brilliant!
Thank you a hundred times over. I have an upcoming print for which this is going to be just the ticket.
Epic. Get'er done!
RUclips never fails. Thank you for the information!
Thanks for sharing!! I could have used this before and had no idea. Thanks again.
These quick tutorials are very helpful to new users! Thank you! :)
Also, quick tip: If you plan to print these sequentially on the same plate, don't center them both. Keep one off center so you don't have to reapply glue stick! :)
I'll do you one better. Don't re-apply for several prints. 🔥🔥
Thank you. I will be trying to do more. 🙏🏼
@@3DRundown
I'll do you both even one better: Use hairspray instead of glue stick. Much more uniform coating.
This is PLA on a textured plate, why would it need glue stick at all?
Going start implementing this in my studio slicing on models . Ty Greg
I was able to do 2 of these this morning on a models , keep it simple and i can evolve . Thanks Gregg
This is the way!
@@3DRundown I made a puppy which I cut in half and put a dowel and hole 🕳️ on other half they didn’t fit together ?
Second video of yours I've watched, just as concise and useful as the first!
Thanks!
Thanks for being here. Welcome to the channel. :)
Great video, to the point and easy to follow - thank you!
thank you so much videos like this help beginners like me get familiar with the Bambu studio thank you
Love your videos. You are the man helped me solve a few issues in just one day sir.
Epic! Mission Acomplished. Good to have you. Super Thanks? Member? 😉
these type of videos are invaluable
thanks so much. I'm always a little uncertain about these kind of videos. :)
Man. I've been wasting so much time in Mesh Mixer. Thank you!
Before this, I was doing the same! And OMG do I suck at doing this in Meshmixer!
Have I helped you? Help ME continue this channel with some support:
TIP: Click the "THANKS" button
Become a RUclips Member, by clicking "JOIN"
Support my Patreon: patreon.com/3drundown
Amazon: amzn.to/2miGQq9
Creality: shrsl.com/4rq1k
Bambu Lab: shrsl.com/46lky
Anycubic: shrsl.com/4gssz
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3DOODLER: shrsl.com/4ro8d
Awesome demonstration.
Bedankt
Thanks so much. I depend on peeps like you to keep this going. Appreciate you. 🫶🏼
great tutorial! thanks!
Awesome! That helped so very much. Thank you.
So simple and so useful! Thanks.
Great tutorial. Thank you
Quick and easy to understand! thank you
i was trying to do this in blender lol, thanks for this
Oh hells no. This is the way my brother
Nice, literally served a head on a platter there. :) This was one feature of the slicer that I did not get to yet, so awesome to learn to know yet another great feature. Definitely need to try this out.
Thanks so much for sharing this w us! This is a great set of features!
This used to be a nightmare, now it's easy! Good times
Cant thank you enough for this subbed !
Thanks for the video. I didn't realise we have to click the surface we want the connector added to... duh...
Great vid, solved my problem. Please keep posting, I just subscribed.
Will do. Stick around. Good to have you. 👍🏼
nice explanation . Congratulations
Excellent, Thank you so much! Like many things, simple when you know how!!!
thank you so much! your tutorials are the best!
Very welcome! Your words mean allot to me... :)
great video
Can you add multiple keys/plugs?
Great simple explanation. Thanks 👍
Very welcome. :)
Thanks am new just got ma printer and doing research on the slicer .
VERY VERY HELPFUL, if I scale the figure to a larger size, is the union or the tolerances maintained or would I have to make the cuts with the final print size?
I would make the cut with the final size, but you *should* be OK.
Awesome Video! Thanks for sharing this with us, Greatly appreciate it. 🤙
Welcome. Good to have you
Thank you, great video
Great info here. Thanks!
You the best, thank you!
You're not so bad yourself! Welcome
Wonderful! Thank You👍😃
Amazing tutorial, thank you so much! Subbed :)
have you done a video on tightening belts on the p1p yet ?
No. Do you think there is a need for this?
When you use an AMS, the next thing you can do, change the print order from layer to part. this way you can place the print on the same plate.
Totally. Great tip. 👍🏼
Awesome video thanks
Question after you spilt and you send the other part to a new bed , can you save this and print later for if you have the one printer ?
Im currently working on some decor display pieces. Ive drawn a stand / base on them just working out the best way to print. I.e the design and the base separately.
Thanks
Of course. It's your project.... you can print it a zillion times. :) Whenever you work on a model, be sure to save the project file.
Very handy. Thx
Nice video thanks for the information
Thanks bro For you time
Very welcome friend
Very helpful. Thank mate!
Great video!!! I just have one question. I cut items to eliminate the purge block hight and waste. When I cut the item all colors go away. Is there a way to return the colors without haven’t to paint the object?
SIGH, yea, that does happen. Painting needs to be last.
A video worth watching!!!!
So useful compared to the old manual ways!
Awesome content and easy to follow along! Thank you
Very welcome. This is a game changer.
Need to make sure Advanced Mode is toggled or option doesn't appear in tool bar. This crashes on current version of Orca on MacOS if you click the right mouse button while trying to set up the cut. And you can't type the angle of rotation for each axis as shown in this video.
That's what you get for using a Mac. 😂🤮
good video!!
🙏🏼
holy shit, this is exactly the tutorial i needed
F*ck yea! Happy to help
Can you add multiple pins to a plane?
Does anyone know which key I have to hold while rotating the axis for it to lock at the increments for eg. every 5 degrees and so on? Because manually doing so is a pain.
And btw great video
When rotating, position your mouse over the notches, *between the white line, and the blue line* it will snap to increments
At 1:02 ,I don't have that button so I can't cut .I don't understand why.Just downloaded the latest version of Orca. Can you help me please?
I believe this function works the same in Orca, as Bambu.... I'll check, and hit you back. However, consider making the switch to Bambu Studio
Is a 1 quarter screw possible? Like how nerf blasters barrels lock together
I don't think so. Only very basic shapes
Is there a way to auto center the peg-n-hole?
You got a sub because of this video
I don't think so, but I'm not sure! I'll check
@3DRundown thx
I've tired several ways
And can't find one so
I did it different way. As dowel or pins need be centered, so when together it's can be rotated.
Thx again your videos are great learning tool
I'd love to hear about your method, and you are very welcome. Thanks for being here
@3DRundown just made a video.
It's about 6mins , being an old dude I don't edit.
And have other topics on my page.
That being said I used tinkercad. Maybe other sites more functions etc. But tinkercad is good for myself.
I'll post link when it's uploaded
Its a good vid thx buddy :)
Is there a way to make the peg a separate item I can install after? So basically a void for the peg on each side, then I can glue the peg into either side with glue.
I am printing things I’d like to keep flat while printing and the peg sticking out prohibits that.
Thanks for the video!
Ah yes. Makes sense. Same way I would want to do it. I usually do manually in mesh mixer. Lemme check on this
@@3DRundown Oh I think I found it, I think you do "dowel" It leaves two holes and a dowel you can insert after! Yay! Thanks again for the video!
That's it. Beat me too it 👍🏼👍🏼
great video! , i do have a question.......do you know if you can create 100 % infill in just certain areas or layers of a print? thanks
Cut the object and check the option ‘cut to parts’. In the objects tabs, change the infill. There maybe something you can do with "‘Add Modifiers’ but I am still learning this
Where are multi colour splits ? Can slicer separate color objects from each other for separate prints ?
Cutting it, will remove color painting.
Is there a way to do this wiithout the peg becoming an integral part of one of the other halves? To print the peg as a separate object?
Edit: Nevermind, that's what a "dowel" connector is! Sorry!
🎯
whats your experience like using the E6000? I tend to just use CA glue, but open to other options
It's the Only glue I use. Literally over 1000 models.
Ok, did you test fit the two pieces before you applied the E6000? If not, are the tolerances between the peg and the hole that precise? I assume they can be adjusted but maybe they don't need to be?
Super tight. I didn't even have to glue it. They Snapped together. I would actually prefer a touch more wiggle room, but, yea, it was pretty spot on. I always use glue, but I'm certain I didn't even have to in this case. When I peg them manually in mesh mixer, I leave a little extra wiggle room, for glue, and so I don't need to apply any pressure for them too fit. There are lot's of adjustments that can be made, but, here I just wanted to demonstrate the basics, to get people started.
What happens if you dont use a connector and just leave it assembled with the cut? Trying to print miniature with a different colored base from the figure that stands on it. I was hoping that it wouldnt need a peg and would just print in 2 colors, one on top of the other and stick
Just do a regular cut, then assign a filament to each part
how can you resize the cut diameter?
Thanks
Can we reduce the cut area?, in my case the "cut area" touch 2 parts of the model, but I just need 1
I have tried to do this, to no avail.... A very useful feature for sure
Is there a way to print them both on the same bed at the same time?
Sure. But if using Multi-Color, I wouldn't. It would be swapping color every layer. There are ways to print one model at a time, but that presents a few new things to learn
Good video, thanks.
Maybe a little louder audio.
It's hard to judge everyones phone, tablet, pc, xbox, etc..... I lean on the softer side to be safe
@@3DRundown No problem, my old ears have had to many jet engines over the years 😄
That sounds awesome.
hello and thank you, but how can I do the opposite? Some miniatures are in several files and if you import them all at once on the board, they won't fit together. Others assemble automatically. I don't know where the instruction is in the files that makes some assemble and not others. Renaming it doesn't change anything. Thanks for your help.
Hey. Can you elaborate? Not sure I'm following
@@3DRundown Hello, figurines are broken down into several files. Head, body, legs, arms, hat, etc. When all the files are placed on the bed at the same time, they are combined for printing into a single complete figure. But other figures don't come together when you drop them on the bed. They have to be printed separately, and then glued back together after printing. I don't know where the instruction is in the files that makes them assemble automatically, or not. I can't give you the links to these files here. Do you understand me? Thank you for your understanding.
Is it possible to create a ‘pen & hole’ with any other slicer? If so - which one(s)? Thanks
ORCA cam do it, and I believe Prusa... but don't quote me on that. Keep in mind Bambu Studio works with other printers as well
@@3DRundown
Kool - thanks for the response - I will research the others - for now, I only have a resin printer; I do plan to get a FDM soon. I still have a lot to learn.
By the way - KUDOS to you on setting up a mod touch screen for the B/L P1P & P1S - the mod would make these printers more attractive to buy - Excellent Job!
Ender 3 V3 will be an epic 1st printer.
Hi
Which settings did you used for that print?
Hi. You can actually see most of my settings on the left side in the video. Which settings you most interested in? I start with 0.2, usually slow things down. Set my infill and such. Typically 8-10ish
Why did I laugh when hearing your cutting Mr.Doggos head off? Im fukked up.
Seek Help
All these people saying thank you even though you cut off a poor dog's head!🤣Thank you so much !
Ya'll shush up, or the Dog Get's it!!
I was to try this. Just to confirm, u printed one then loaded the next print or after the first one is done u remove the part and it continues to print the next or another step is needed to print second part ?
Yes. Printed one. Choosing white. Then, printed the other, choosing brown. I used an AMS, but you can just swap the filament
@@3DRundown okay thanks. If I’m only using 1 color i can print both on the same bed right ?
You bet!
Hello sir.
Can you help me with something?
When i color a piece in multiple colors and then cut it, the colors are suddenly missing...
Painting is lost after cutting. Cut 1st
How did you get your Bambu studios into dark mode
Bambu Studio DARK MODE - P1P/X1C users: Save your eyes, and Turn on Dark Mode!
ruclips.net/video/W9tEJy3hrh0/видео.html
Thanks
It doesnt work for me i do exactly as you but my upper half just keeps disappearing no matter what i do. I even tried 3 different version of orca and nothing. This is infuriating tbh
Look at all the checked and unchecked boxes.
Try it in Bambu Studio
@@3DRundown I got it now. I have to deselect them after cut and then reselect.
if you need to change filament color, you can just select the object and type the associated number. it's a lot faster and easier. Why the filament color is always at the bottom of the menu when using a mouse is beyond me.
Isn't that super weird?? Also, great tip. 🙌🏼🙌🏼
also tipple click the color and get the selection then.
Ohhhhh, so you have to click on the piece do add the conector 🤦♂....
You TOTALLY knew that already.
I still don’t know how to start my own project. Every video I watched and ask how to start an object from scratch, there isn’t one video out there. I searched about 5 dozen web sites and on RUclips and I can’t find nothing. They all show pre installed programs in their printers. And not one video shows how to start an project from scratch. So I guess I’m stuck with a $700.00 POS.
I was going to pass on helping you, after your Toxic last sentence, but, your post is so confusing, I just have to hear more. I don't understand what you are trying to do. Are you trying to MAKE a 3D Model? Bambu Studio is a SLICER, not a 3D Modeling program. 3D Modeling is done in Tinkercad, Fusion 360, Blender, and others. There are countless tutorials on those. Bambu Studio, is a SLICER, for creating a gcode out of an STL file. Sounds like you have ALLOT of learning to do, on 3D Printing... and if you want to MODEL, that's a whole entire new complex world
I agree. Sounds like you’re wanting to create a model, not slice one. You seem to be putting the cart before the horse.
Right click and add primitive cube.. trada you made your first model😂
Clean your nail bro 😂
No thanks. I'm a busy man