I'm glad to have found these led sealed beam videos, especially since they aren't being used to sell exorbitantly expensive equipment (**cough**headlightrevolution**cough**). I have an econoline conversion van and am planning on also doing a retrofit just to use LED sealed beams, since I've had great success with the LED sealed beams in our econoline work van.
Your side by side comparison of the stock VS the LED was so revealing, I've noticed that with the LED's you cannot see the tree, also the differentiation from the soil and grass is much better than with the stock lights, not to mention the light beam distribution. I am really glad to have seen your video, I will return those lights to Amazon tomorrow, but I still want more light than the stock bulbs are providing, just don't think that this is the brand to go with - Again, great job on the video, much appreciated!!
Did you get new lights yet? Do you have the sealed beam ones of the large ones? I've been running PHILIPS X-treme Vision bulbs in my car for the last 10 years and I like them a lot! Got the same for my E450.
How to adjust headlights. On level ground park 20ft from wall. Measure to center of lamp. Use tape to mark the wall at the same height. Headlight cut off should be level at 20ft. The step in the projected light should be straight ahead.
I put led tail light bulbs on my 06 e350 ford van. The right side stays on dim 24hrs and the signals go quickly now and don't automatically stop. I'm thinking I'll need to take them out aha
I think the watts rating is supposed to be for comparison, meaning they put out the equivalent of a 40w bulb, 60w, etc. Since the LEDs are more efficient, they put out this amount of light with a lower current load. It's kinda messed up but really common to see things advertised that way. Truly, "watts" doesn't really have anything to do with the light that is output, but the public isn't really familiar with lumens or how many they should expect. Amp draw isn't much of a concern on a van, but say on a motorcycle where you have a small margin of usable power, switching to LEDS can be a big win.
that makes sense. wish they were clear on what they mean by wattage though. that's true. but also depends on other things your planning on running with the van's alternator. like powering a 40 amp dc to dc charger
Say, I have a 2001 E-150 that needs increasing brightness cause this senior isn't able to drive at night using stock headlight. I'd like to replace all night running lights with LED.
Instead of using a razor blade to remove the insulation on crimp on connectors, you can just heat them up with a lighter until they start to melt and then they pull right off with plyers. I do it all the time. Then I solder them to the wire and use heat shirnk.
I've been doing van conversion electrical systems for a few years now. Car electrical for 8+ years. For the longest time before doing this full time I stripped wires by placing it between my thumb and a knife edge and rolling it. Works on large cables too.
Just an FYI, but you should level your headlights further from the garage door. The headlights on the van probably sit about 10 inches higher than your BMW, so when the cut off is level on each vehicle, your van headlamps are actually pointed down drastically, decreasing the throw by probably 30-40 feet at driving distances.
Have you messed around with setting up keyless entry? Finding the programming connector under the steering wheel has been the death of me, supposed to jump it in order to program the remote.
I have not, this van did not have keyless entry option even though it has power locks. this year of van had keyless entry as an option and the module for it was behind the driver seat on the wall. my van has the module for it. newer vans probably have a completely different setup. I will be installing a compustar remote start, keyless entry and security system wit gps tracking on my van at some point
So i followed this tutorial to a tee and the high/low beams dont switch on and off with the pull switch they also dont turn off when i push the swifch all the way in. Any help would be appreciated
@@4WheelKid Thanks, I didn’t think of getting one there, I was thinking Amazon or eBay, getting one at a Junkyard would actually be easier for me since I am living in my Van on the Road.
swap lights from one side to other. if problem follows light then the light is faulty. if it doesn't light up on the same side there is a problem with vehicle wiring or connector. check to see if connector is corroded or bad wiring somewhere
@4WheelKid both light work but on high beam only one work. I switch headlights around to see of ot was the headlights and it wasn't. It's just on high beam.
The DOT approval went out the door when they allowed The manufacturers to change from sealed beams to projector beams. Ever drive down the road and have the bright LED white beam hit you? Most likely those are the led projector beams. Bright white is a huge problem, more so than the old halogen beams. The LED projector beam in low mode is as bright or brighter than the old High beams. And why is this a problem? Because Americans like to drive with the HIGH beams on. Bad enough with the old seal beams and halogens, but with the LED projector beams, it is blinding. The problem other than bright light being shot at your face is the color. The old beams were incandensant with a yellowish light. It did not bother the on coming driver unless it were in bright mode. The halogens were white beams, beginning to bother the oncoming driver in low beam and blinding in high beam. The LEDs are bright in low beam and the super brite white beam in HIGH BEAM is overly blinding. The LED low beam today is as bright as the old halogen BRIGHT BEAM, and the LED PROJECTOR BRIGHT is double that brightness. The Bright beam should be disabled and not manufactured as it would be illegal. DOT KNEW THIS. DOT approved this with no resistance, probably another political under the table pay off and they have REFUSED to go back and correct their error. Basically NO light these days are DOT approved. But the good thing seems to be, the police no longer go after you for bright lights because THEY ARE ALL BRIGHT LIGHTS. Put anything you want on your vehicle because it no longer matters. DOT is a farce.
yeah it's the bright white led lights are not ideal looking into them, a lot of the issue is people have them adjusted incorrectly, they put a lift on a truck and don't bother with adjusting. all cars are going to cool white led's, if you cant beat them then join them. fight fire with fire haha
😂 QUE PESAR Y SIN OFENDER .! ...QUE ESTAS APLICACIONES NO., NO PUEDAN HACERLO EN ESPÑOL LATINO . ESA EDUCACION DE EXPRESION RESULTA COJA PARA MUCHOS .!!!
@@4WheelKid I have an Econoline too- I’m following your build. Just have some consideration for other drivers on the road it’s so easy to blind people with the LED’s they’re not necessary.
@@4WheelKid We all watch the LED upgrade as we may need one. Such as my E350 sealed beams and the holders are corroded out. Time to upgrade. I no longer worry about blinding the oncoming traffic as the LED beams do that in low beam and worse in high beam. It is the color spectrum. If you do some experimenting, you find the old incandescent lamps had a yellowish light. MUCH less blinding. Halogen had the white beam and were constantly complained about for blinding traffic. The LEDs mostly come in the Bright white spectrum and that is what blinds on coming traffic. Does not matter if DOT approved it, it still blinds the traffic. And to be precise, it is the light source, the burning LED and its reflection from the bulb/reflector that is doing most of the blinding damage. THESE headlights need an entirely different mounting system where the bulb/reflector is mounted back in the fender were the source light is not seen from on coming traffic. Wearing colored glasses like driving glasses, some shooting glasses, helps a bit as the color transitions the LED white beam to a lesser shade, but you still see the source light. We can watch any vid we want for information.
I think the problem is compounded when you consider that the vast majority of cars on the road are trucks and SUVs that have the headlights four feet off the ground, precisely eye level for anyone in a car. Old trucks, and the econolines, had their headlights mounted lower strictly to not be eye level with cars. They stopped doing that to incite a psyops to get people out of cars and into trucks, and the automakers get those fat profit margins.
@@lifequest7453 I've noticed that there are a lot of cars that have two sets of lights - the headlights and a second set of lights that can be described as 'fuck you, car drivers' lights, precisely mounted to car drive eye level. Look how fast the police will pull someone over when you have an led light bar mounted on your car at precisely truck eye level.
I'm glad to have found these led sealed beam videos, especially since they aren't being used to sell exorbitantly expensive equipment (**cough**headlightrevolution**cough**). I have an econoline conversion van and am planning on also doing a retrofit just to use LED sealed beams, since I've had great success with the LED sealed beams in our econoline work van.
Glad you found it! Yeah these seem to be well priced, we will see how they hold up over time. Awesome that should work too
I put them in my 14 E250 over a year ago ... unbelievable. Almost twice as bright.
nice! they do a great job
I have an 08 E 250 now this is my next project
Awesome! Should help you light things up some more
I've always found that getting the level close then doing a road test for actual, then adjust. Those are nice a bright tho, good job!
Yeah just takes some trial and error for sure
Followed your video, used the links, easy install with your instructions. Huge upgrade from my halogens. Ford E250 2000. Thanks!
Hey glad to hear! Thanks for watching, a great upgrade for sure
Estan muy padres, ya compre los mios para mi econoline y se ven de super lujo 100% recomendados
Es genial escucharlos, son excelentes luces y también legales en la calle. gracias por ver
Those are awesome. Nice work. Nothing like a fresh video from you to watch.
Thanks! Yeah I need to try and get videos out faster
@@4WheelKid you can't rush quality.
Your side by side comparison of the stock VS the LED was so revealing, I've noticed that with the LED's you cannot see the tree, also the differentiation from the soil and grass is much better than with the stock lights, not to mention the light beam distribution. I am really glad to have seen your video, I will return those lights to Amazon tomorrow, but I still want more light than the stock bulbs are providing, just don't think that this is the brand to go with - Again, great job on the video, much appreciated!!
glad you found it useful. that's why I do that so people can decide for themselves. best of luck finding some lights you need
Did you get new lights yet? Do you have the sealed beam ones of the large ones?
I've been running PHILIPS X-treme Vision bulbs in my car for the last 10 years and I like them a lot! Got the same for my E450.
@@alexzbarazky3038 Ended up installing the same one you demo in the vid, they work fine
How to adjust headlights.
On level ground park 20ft from wall. Measure to center of lamp. Use tape to mark the wall at the same height. Headlight cut off should be level at 20ft. The step in the projected light should be straight ahead.
thanks for the tip
Great video, all the information I needed specifically with the test drive.. thx
No problem! Glad to help, so far the lights have been great, one guy in the comments said he has had them for 2 years and still loves them
High beams make it worth the upgrade,. Good product I fo , thanks
For sure, love how bright they are and how little power they use. No problem
I put led tail light bulbs on my 06 e350 ford van. The right side stays on dim 24hrs and the signals go quickly now and don't automatically stop. I'm thinking I'll need to take them out aha
Yeah led turn signal bulbs seem to cause all kinds of issues
Did you make a video on connecting the day time running lights? I have these same lights and a E-250. I love to see how you did it
not yet but someday I will I have a remote switch panel ill be installing so ill probably wire them into one of those circuits
I think the watts rating is supposed to be for comparison, meaning they put out the equivalent of a 40w bulb, 60w, etc. Since the LEDs are more efficient, they put out this amount of light with a lower current load. It's kinda messed up but really common to see things advertised that way. Truly, "watts" doesn't really have anything to do with the light that is output, but the public isn't really familiar with lumens or how many they should expect.
Amp draw isn't much of a concern on a van, but say on a motorcycle where you have a small margin of usable power, switching to LEDS can be a big win.
that makes sense. wish they were clear on what they mean by wattage though. that's true. but also depends on other things your planning on running with the van's alternator. like powering a 40 amp dc to dc charger
Say, I have a 2001 E-150 that needs increasing brightness cause this senior isn't able to drive at night using stock headlight. I'd like to replace all night running lights with LED.
gottcha, hope these lights will do the trick, they are quite bright and street legal
Instead of using a razor blade to remove the insulation on crimp on connectors, you can just heat them up with a lighter until they start to melt and then they pull right off with plyers. I do it all the time. Then I solder them to the wire and use heat shirnk.
hey great idea! ill do that when removing those plastic bits when I need to. I avoid soldering stranded wires on vehicles though
I've been doing van conversion electrical systems for a few years now. Car electrical for 8+ years. For the longest time before doing this full time I stripped wires by placing it between my thumb and a knife edge and rolling it. Works on large cables too.
Awesome video👍👍👍
Thanks so much!
@@4WheelKid But how could we contact with you?
Just an FYI, but you should level your headlights further from the garage door. The headlights on the van probably sit about 10 inches higher than your BMW, so when the cut off is level on each vehicle, your van headlamps are actually pointed down drastically, decreasing the throw by probably 30-40 feet at driving distances.
yeah I talked about that in the video. good point
Hi, I just got a 97 diesel version of this. Are these applicable to mine? Love you videos btw. Thanks.
nice! yeah should be the same, could have came with either light setup
@@4WheelKid Thank you. How I wish you had the diesel too. That way I can just follow all your upgrades. Lol.
Have you messed around with setting up keyless entry? Finding the programming connector under the steering wheel has been the death of me, supposed to jump it in order to program the remote.
I have not, this van did not have keyless entry option even though it has power locks. this year of van had keyless entry as an option and the module for it was behind the driver seat on the wall. my van has the module for it. newer vans probably have a completely different setup. I will be installing a compustar remote start, keyless entry and security system wit gps tracking on my van at some point
thlose look very good
Thanks! No regrets
So i followed this tutorial to a tee and the high/low beams dont switch on and off with the pull switch they also dont turn off when i push the swifch all the way in. Any help would be appreciated
Maybe a different vehicle? The way the factory wiring is could be an issue
Hi I have a 98 and need a new Grill can you tell me where you got your Grill from and is it a direct fit.
Thanks
hey I got mine from the Junk yard, fit perfectly and was super cheap
@@4WheelKid Thanks, I didn’t think of getting one there, I was thinking Amazon or eBay, getting one at a Junkyard would actually be easier for me since I am living in my Van on the Road.
Birdman Dave here…
Why didn’t you go with duraseries headlights?
not sure, just found these on amazon and they had great reviews
Put on the new raptor grille
Naa I like this one
I got the same headlights but when in high bean only one work. On low beam both work. Any idea why I can high beam both lights?
swap lights from one side to other. if problem follows light then the light is faulty. if it doesn't light up on the same side there is a problem with vehicle wiring or connector. check to see if connector is corroded or bad wiring somewhere
@4WheelKid both light work but on high beam only one work. I switch headlights around to see of ot was the headlights and it wasn't. It's just on high beam.
Did you remove the little caps on the back of the headlights?
no those are breather vents
What brand headlight brackets did you use? Thanks
The brackets I got from the junk yard, oem ford
question, are these vans worth owning?
Depends on many factors
Worth every penny I've had 3 still operate 2 6.0 diesels one 4x4 one for work, fans just have so many advantages.
Any Link to that grill and headlights? I also have a 96' E350
Link to the headlights in the description, I got the grill at the junk yard haha
Nice!
When can I hire you for an automotive restoration project 😂
Haha maybe someday when I have a shop, but wont be cheap
Are you working in north Carolina
i'm in Colorado
wattage is less as this is the equivalent wattage
Good to know, wish they were clear on what they mean
The DOT approval went out the door when they allowed The manufacturers to change from sealed beams to projector beams.
Ever drive down the road and have the bright LED white beam hit you?
Most likely those are the led projector beams. Bright white is a huge problem, more so than the old halogen beams.
The LED projector beam in low mode is as bright or brighter than the old High beams.
And why is this a problem?
Because Americans like to drive with the HIGH beams on. Bad enough with the old seal beams and halogens,
but with the LED projector beams, it is blinding.
The problem other than bright light being shot at your face is the color.
The old beams were incandensant with a yellowish light. It did not bother the on coming driver unless it were in bright mode.
The halogens were white beams, beginning to bother the oncoming driver in low beam and blinding in high beam.
The LEDs are bright in low beam and the super brite white beam in HIGH BEAM is overly blinding.
The LED low beam today is as bright as the old halogen BRIGHT BEAM, and the LED PROJECTOR BRIGHT is double that
brightness. The Bright beam should be disabled and not manufactured as it would be illegal.
DOT KNEW THIS.
DOT approved this with no resistance, probably another political under the table pay off and they have REFUSED to
go back and correct their error.
Basically NO light these days are DOT approved.
But the good thing seems to be, the police no longer go after you for bright lights because THEY ARE ALL BRIGHT LIGHTS.
Put anything you want on your vehicle because it no longer matters.
DOT is a farce.
yeah it's the bright white led lights are not ideal looking into them, a lot of the issue is people have them adjusted incorrectly, they put a lift on a truck and don't bother with adjusting. all cars are going to cool white led's, if you cant beat them then join them. fight fire with fire haha
geometryking
thanks
😢. INTERESANTE .! PERO , PERO .???
DESMOTIVA EN
GRAN % EL NO PODER EXPRESARSE EN ESPAÑOL ..
.
Just tap the cc button for spanish subtitles
😂 QUE PESAR Y SIN OFENDER .! ...QUE ESTAS APLICACIONES NO., NO PUEDAN HACERLO EN ESPÑOL LATINO . ESA EDUCACION DE EXPRESION RESULTA COJA PARA MUCHOS .!!!
Sorry I only speak English
First comment?
rad!
I hate LED's. In my opinion they don't do anything for visibility they just blind the people you drive behind. Too many on the road today.
You hate LED’s so you clicked on an LED video?
@@4WheelKid I have an Econoline too- I’m following your build. Just have some consideration for other drivers on the road it’s so easy to blind people with the LED’s they’re not necessary.
@@4WheelKid We all watch the LED upgrade as we may need one. Such as my E350 sealed beams and the holders are corroded out. Time to upgrade.
I no longer worry about blinding the oncoming traffic as the LED beams do that in low beam and worse in high beam.
It is the color spectrum. If you do some experimenting, you find the old incandescent lamps had a yellowish light. MUCH less blinding.
Halogen had the white beam and were constantly complained about for blinding traffic.
The LEDs mostly come in the Bright white spectrum and that is what blinds on coming traffic.
Does not matter if DOT approved it, it still blinds the traffic.
And to be precise, it is the light source, the burning LED and its reflection from the bulb/reflector that is doing most of the blinding damage. THESE headlights need an entirely different mounting system where the bulb/reflector is mounted back in the fender were the source light is not seen from on coming traffic.
Wearing colored glasses like driving glasses, some shooting glasses, helps a bit as the color transitions the LED white beam to a lesser shade, but you still see the source light.
We can watch any vid we want for information.
I think the problem is compounded when you consider that the vast majority of cars on the road are trucks and SUVs that have the headlights four feet off the ground, precisely eye level for anyone in a car. Old trucks, and the econolines, had their headlights mounted lower strictly to not be eye level with cars. They stopped doing that to incite a psyops to get people out of cars and into trucks, and the automakers get those fat profit margins.
@@lifequest7453 I've noticed that there are a lot of cars that have two sets of lights - the headlights and a second set of lights that can be described as 'fuck you, car drivers' lights, precisely mounted to car drive eye level. Look how fast the police will pull someone over when you have an led light bar mounted on your car at precisely truck eye level.