Racing HEAVY trains with a MANUAL TRANSMISSION locomotive! | Derail Valley Races Ep. 3
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- kAN's POV: • This Train Engine Has ...
Today, @kANGaming and I race DM3's in Derail Valley based on your suggestions! It was a fun race and a lot closer than you'd think!
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You typically use the car's chain.
The idea is that if there is any damage of any reason not to use a car's chain, you use the other one.
This becomes a bigger deal with the locos chain, having a loco in the repair shop for chain repair is a much bigger deal than just having a car in the shop
Thank you! That makes sense.
If you are coupling up to an electric engine, you always use the car's chain, for your own safety. If you need to use the engine's chain, the pantograph must come down, 25 kV AC is no joke.
Yeah, you don’t want to become the thing that completes the ground circuit between the locomotive and the rail, and there’s very little chance you can tell from outside if a piece of equipment has only partially lost its ground!
The game changes the chain somwhere on the route. If you are use the car's chain, at the destination will be used the engine's chain. It's a glitch or something.
If you are coupling to a coach with a drophead buckeye like a MK1 or MK2 you will have to use the locos chain/shackle (unless you use the emergency one in the guard's van).
Kan - "I can't wait to have a new engine that I can blow up"
Hyce - "Been there, done that, got the t-shirt"
I think that interaction just about sums up everybody's first experience with the DM3.
Where my DM3 Sport?
But can you rev match it
I haven't blown up DM3,DH4, S060, S282, DE6. Blown up DM2 and only had the TM motor switch turn off, so I gotten lucky.
@@kyleclemmons2006 I can say the same for the DH4, DE6, and S060. I did manage to blow the cylinders on a S282 but was able to crawl back to the nearest repair bay and fix that.
As for the DM3, I had done a small delivery to GF using a DE2 and saw the DM3 for the first time sitting in the siding and wanted to play with it, had the money, and bought the license. Successfully did a shunting job with no issues and got the job to deliver the train I just loaded to the Harbor. Almost got to the main line and was using the engine break to slow down. It was going good and then I shifted wrong, there was a bang, and the DE3 was in the weeds.
Ive only used the DM3 in 1st gear, havent switched gears cuz im too scared ill bomb the transmition
@@yogabumm Honestly shifting up is easy. Shifting down is where its more risky. I can give you a few pointers.
1. Remember to always drop the throttle to zero before changing gears. Otherwise you will strip everything out.
2. Practice doing shunting jobs. I particularly would recommend harbor or Goods and Factory town as they are both completely flat with plenty of room to work with.
3. Shift up when the RPM's are between 800-1000
4. Slow the train and engine down until you get the tachometer to around 400 RPM before downshifting. If you downshift with the RPM's too high you will spike them above 1000 RPM and blow the gear box.
****WARNING****
If the train is in motion, make sure you only go down one gear at a time when downshifting. You can usually jump over a gear or two when accelerating and the worst you will do if you jump too far is stall the engine.
Jumping more than one gear down while in motion usually ends up with the guts of your gearbox being dumped out between the rails.
5. Go in small steps. Practice just the first few gears and get used to them. I would probably start with the first four gears which use the following patterns
1st 1-1
2nd 1-2
3rd 2-1
4th 2-2
6. From there slowly add in one gear at a time until you hit them all.
5th 3-1
6th 3-2
7th 2-3
8th 3-3
For the couplers, I've found three approaches in various sources:
1) use the link on your right when facing the coupling from the side (there's a specific way you connected them that prevented you from getting your hand caught, safety)
2) use the one from the locomotive/ closer to the loco if coupling cars
3) pick whichever you like/looks stronger/is less rusted up.
I've heard you should use the one from the car, because if it breaks you have a car out of order, instead of having downtime on a locomotive. But that's just from RUclips comments, so no clue how accurate that is.
The way I’ve done it, being a volunteer at a Uk heritage museum, the rule is:
loco to passenger coach (except in some circumstances),
loco wagons fitted with vacuum or air brakes, or
Unfitted wagons to locomotive( or as I was first told, “Class 9 freight”)
Another former UK heritage railway wallah here. We were always tild engine to carriage, as the engine (and thus coupler) was more frequently oiled and maintained. With freight it was preferred, but simetimes necessary to use wagons (instanter, rather than screw) coupler if using a coupling rod - the latter however being rather unnecessary in the heritage sector.. .
Thirding the Loco-to-passenger-coach on heritage railways rule.
25:00 In Germany we say: Schublok: shoving/pushing locomotive and schieben: shoving, pushing
- In college class
John Doe
Derail valley debt collector
Ah, the shenanigans begin again. I wait for the chaos this round of cargo hauling.
For the anwser to the question of whitch coupler you use, as an Dutch train driver who usses them, you take the link form the wagons in to the hook on the locomotive. Because if the coupler breaks you only have to set out the wagon. If you use the one on the locomotive you have to bring it in to the shop for repair and losing the locomotive until it's repaired. And for the sequence for coupling always go machanical, air and electric (when used), the other way around for uncoupling, electric, air and mechanical
Yeah, DM3s was worth it. Slow moving, "move the planet" locomotives, the hardest diesel to control _quickly_, but certainly easier than trying to drive a steam engine around.
Possible locomotive choices for the future:
S282s across the map.
"We have the DE6 at home." (3x DE2 MU, loaded stupid heavy)
Slug it out. (DE2 + DE6 Slug, deliver your job _and_ then shunt it.)
Double Trouble (2x S060)
S282s, with the S282 Rearranged mod. You can choose any arrangement you want, but you're stuck with it once you start moving. Do you go for speed, or do you go for pulling the world?
FYI on the DM3 lights since you fiddle with them: lights type up for red, down for white. Lights 1 is running (marker?) light where it's just lit up, lights 2 is like dim driving light, and 1+2 is bright. Wipers are similar: 1 is intermittent, 2 is low speed, 1+2 is high speed.
35:00 *Kan makes serious comment about running choo choo.*
Hyce: "I am the stack."
*Kan continues unphased.*
XD
25:49 If the brake handle didn't spring back, it would be all too easy to leave the handle in emergency without realizing while using keyboard controls, especially for someone not so familiar with airbrakes.
DV doesn't use emergency
I feel like Choo Fast Choo Furious needs a scene where there's a need to multi-track drift because of switch shenanigans. Maybe a de-rail attempt going through a yard that fails. And then to fix it on the other side the engineer has to shoot the switch plate and it magically makes the switch throw at just the right time.
These engines are based on the British Railways 04 or 03 and were built by the Drewery Car Co. at either Vulcan works or Robert Stevenson and Hawthorne. Banking is the act of getting a heavy train over the hill (See Bertha on the Lickey Incline), but your thinking of top and tail, where you have engines at both ends of the train, so you can run the train without having to turn the engines around.
For the UK heritage sector, generally the loco. Freight cars usually use three link or instanter couplings, passenger screw or buckeye. With passenger, buckeyes cannot couple to steam (locos only have screw), so loco can only be used. The need to lubricate the screw (ooh matron) also means that loco is preferred for screw screw pairings, as frankly the locos coupling is kikely better looked after. For freight, the screw does give a tighter couple (so preferable to use loco) however, when shunting one uses the wagons coupling due to a device called a shunters pole - this allows you to hook the link onto the hook whilst next to the buffers, which is quicker and safer, but does need to use the coupling on the stationary element of the train.
Another good DM3 race would be 500-600 tons of logs from Forest Central to the sawmill , comes with an interesting choice. you can run into the steel mill to go up less of a grade , or try to take the steeper grade turn outside the steel mill at the Y to save time.
CHOO FAST CHOO FURIOUS! You were granny shifting when you should have been double clutching like a real engineer 😂😂
I didn't choose the Chug Life- the Chug Life chose me XD
“Where did you learn to drive stick?”
“A train”
“huh?”
Driving the DM-3 in VR is something else. you can really move the throttle and shift éever at once for maximum speed
Ah, I've missed this. The chemistry you two have makes for a truly entertaining video, no matter what game y'all are playing.
You should do the S282
Your issuance total adds up to YES. thank you for paying sincerely es@d insurance manager
When it comes to which coupling to use there are different philosophies. And as for the brakes I’ve been taught to reduce half a bar to slow down an 1 bar when I want to slow down faster or stop.
That sounds pretty consistent with what we do over here. :)
I still want to see you do the rearranged s2-8-2s, where Kan picks whichever wheel arrangement he wants, and then Hyce has to pick a different wheel arrangement. That way you're testing Kan's ability to pick an engine as well as his ability to drive it.
The DM3 can pull the universe, anywhere, anytime, but it sure ain't in a hurry to get there.
28:20 I could not stop laughing. The wheels start squeeling, they’re comin’ off the trackkk
In the DM3, you can actually use the reverser as a sort of 'clutch.' By putting the reverser in center, it isolates the engine from the rest of the powertrain.
I haven't watched the video yet, but I am willing to bet at least one of you sends your pistons to Mars.
Edit: it appears I was right >:D Good job [Redacted Due Too Spoilers]
This was the best explanation of non self lapping brakes and how to use them effectively in DV yet- I’ve been setting them by watching the red needle- not the black.
I’ve been playing this game for years now and today I learned.
Glad it helped! :)
Love your banter with kAN
I volunteer at a trolley museum in wester pa, and manual lapping brakes, called straight air brakes, are the best thing in the world, you have so much control
Dv multi-player is a must
Won't happen. Devs said to add MP would require such a rewrite that they might as well make DV2 at that point.
I am hoping that they're under promising with the hopes of over delivery. They've got a few difficulty settings that are labelled in such a way that they're geared towards multiplayer...
24:50 Funny that you mention that, because that's exactly what I did last couple of episodes. And if 2 282s aren't enough, just get a third one, it's gonna be fine :D
I'd love to see Hyce have a go at a double steam header since I always learn a lot from you, especially when you're pushing boundaries
Oh hey, fancy seeing you here!
@@pranavghantasala6808 oh hey there :)
I love the DM3. So easy to break
Yay more race content! Love to see you and kAN playing together again!
My want for Derail valley Multiplayer is two person steam locomotive operation. And maybe a bigger or in between steam engine like a 10 wheeler or a 2-10-2 4-8-4 something like that.
I watched a video of an insane DM3 pull. 1254T from Forest Central to Sawmill. The poor DM3 was crawling backwards up that hill on the way out, running in the red the whole time. I had difficulty doing that with the S282, but then I was trying to do it in the rain.
It mentioned in derail valley wiki that max tonnage for this is 960t. Tho if you pull on flat ground easily pull 1170t.
DM3 is my favorite loco in game so far. Given i can only use DE2 and DM3. It can really pull this small boy is a beast. Too bad its not MU compatible, that would be really fun and probably the only loco you'll ever need.
Also HYCE and KAN is like to thank you two for introducing this game to me. Else I'd never have known about this game at all.
You just Kan-stantly reduce the brake pressure to not go too Hyce-peed 😂
This game would be even more a trip with even just two player co-op. You guys also broke me with "Choo Fast Choo Furious."
Choo fast Choo furious!! 😂😂
There is still one Banking engine turn in the UK - the Lickey Banker
everybody gangsta till fujiwara starts banging gears and drifting in a train
My favorite use of the DM3 is out of the Coal Mine. Pulling 750 tons up that grade is a slog but it does it at walking speed cuz I literally get out and walk next to it on the +2.3%...lol. As I head towards the Steel Mill it is fun to use Engine brake and down shifting the transmission to get the best braking from the engine and not use the train brakes if at all. It keeps ya busy. 😁
I keep the gear pattern for the DM3 on a sticky note on my desk lol
i wanna see Hyce play something about like a nuclear fission reactor or something out of his element that still uses steam but without coal
be kinda funny seeing him freak out that something that generates steam is so complicated
lol
keep blowing stuff up though and ill keep blowing up nuclear fission and fusion reactors :)
hope these are fun for you Hyce
Hyce, you forgot to tell kAN to kill the throttle before he shifts... His view is full of very crunchy noises though, which is something I like
for any job where speed is not a concern, the DM3 is your engine.
ENGINE: "It's too much! I can't do it!"
DM3: OI! 'OLD ME BEER!
Man, I have to get that DM3 license. This is awesome!
Racing with distributed power + remote control might be interesting. Two sets of controls, two locos to break, and when one does break - do you reload immediately or try to press on with just one? (I mean, come on, I'm almost to the top of the grade!)
The finny thing about the spicy derail sounds is that when i see a big UP unit train hauling ass its about all i can hear
The DM3 is an absolute beast … just gotta remember to break torque before you shift.
i think you had it right the first time a few vids ago. i think the right stick is the high range low range with the left stick being your 3 speed options per shift of the right stick. ( jeez i hope this make's some kinda sense).
It's not, based on the ratio chart. Wish it was that easy. lol
Fun video once again =) I love the concept.
I'm fairly sure that you use the locomotive link wherever possible, at least here in Britain. Possibly because wagons were regarded as untrustworthy?
I'd seen someone else mentioned the other way: you would use the car link to locomotive, so that if it were to break you have a less often used and less stressed link on the locomotive to reattach with. Pretty sure it depends (drink) on the railroad, but I'm sure they'd all have their own standard (use link on font car to hook to rear, for example, meaning to always use locomotive link).
YEEES! Exploding some DM3
Go to the Slug House, that would be fun. :) Thanks for the video guys, it was a blast. (Literally, in the case of kAN's locomotive.)
In my town we have a few diesels that I think are a mechanical so this was interesting
Its likes they took one of the first tractors and sit lets put that on some tracks.
Tractors still have low and high gears.
I wish there was a "clean" cab textures for that locomotive, because i really like clean (or at least not that dirty) locomotives
I would mod in some more lights. It's so dark that I actually find myself getting eye strain sometimes while driving it.
We really need another kAn race, but perhaps edit in a countdown on screen so we can easily sync up the videos :P
I had great fun watching both POV for this race and I recommend more people to try it if you haven't yet.
‘haaa 😀 soo how do I set the brake?’ 11:45 Even the *brakes* are manual. HOLY
You guys GOTTA do this for the next races, as well as the ones from now on: _add the caboose!_ Before the days of EOTs, they were commonplace on railroads all over the world(albeit called other names, usually brake van), and I don't know 'bout you guys, but I don't see no box with blinking red light around. _Seems like you need something guarding the rear of the train..._
I'd love to see you guys try doing a race that involves picking up a shunting job, loading it, taking it over the road, and then unloading it. Really hope the slug slope race happens too, sounds like a lot of fun!
Switching pattern between those two transmissions is so bizarre.
I usually skip some gears to have an easy to remember pattern. 1-1, 1-2, 2-1, 2-2, 2-3, 3-3.
DM3 has so much torque it doesn't care for most loads.
Just installed DRV... need to do some work with the controls, as I can't move nearly as smooth as you, and I'm off the rails before I can see the brake lever to even hit it... (related note... maybe a trackball isn't the input method of choice for something like this...)
30 minutes in: I heard mention of GARRATT GAAAAAANG!!!
@choofast... so you have the tuner kid with the import diesel electric or maglev , the "big power" guy with the disel mechanical, and the vin d character with the named steam loco
suggestion for next race nuclear waste and ammo to the military
You should race handcars from the sawmill to central log camp
"pushbar" lol
you should race 1000 tons of gas/diesel out of the harbor to the food factory in the S282.
Should double head the Mikado with the default realistic difficulty settings, Ive been doing it in my Simulator play through.
I suggest for the next race down the 5% you only get ONE safety save!
I’m playing the game rn and i got my mell(dm3) and don’t wanna use anything else she’s a powerful beast and I’m glad she’s cheap to maintain if you are nice to her, she’s a slow powerful girl with the ability to pull nearly 1300 on a 1.8% with sand and still have fuel to last because she’s just that fuel efficient 😊
Edit: and she’s only rated for 960
Race idea: Whatever loco, or set of locos, 2000t consit, rain, from harbour to something like food factory - giv'em sand and beans the hard way
You guys should have a gravity powered race no engines just a heavy train on a hill just like when the 282 tipped the the boiler water and blew its top. First to the bottom wins.
DM3 very fun in VR
They need more smoke out the exhaust pipe because it’s based of a class 03 shunter
For those who play derail valley, is there anyway I can check what the rated pulling capacity is for the locomotives, I know they used to have it on the licence when you brought a new one but they don't now and I have no clue how to math the tonnage for each engine.
Yes, there is a guide in the steam app.
the mechanical stuff s really cool
Hyce: Why did you down shift the engine into Notch 8 and blow up the transmission?!
kAN : It was 14 cars at 1200 tons!
rearranged S282s, but you choose which wheel arrangement and cant change it once youre out of the yard
20:45: You can speed up the charging of the pipe by a lot by revving up the engine. 1 notch is enough. If you want even faster, keep swapping between notch 1 and 0 to keep the pump going near the max pressure without turning off.
I actually had both videos playing at once this time (the other ones I just watched yours then kAN's), and managed to get your voice perfectly synced in both so I could have the audio from both trains at once. Unfortunately that meant that kAN's voice was doubled, which was a bit overwhelming, but worth it. Interestingly, by the end of the video your voice was no longer synced, so somehow either one of the videos was slightly faster, or the voice latency changed steadily in one direction through the whole video. No idea what happened to cause that, whatever it was.
Race idea: What's the longest stretch of track between stations where you wouldn't need any locomotive at all (besides maybe to start the train), and still be able to make it? If that exists, it could be fun to see a gravity race through there. You could do the same thing with the slug too, but it's not between two stations, just down from the shed.
the dm3 is the ultimate train that could also very easy to blow up
also how the gears work?
i thought it had like 5 cause you got 5 different ways to have the levers 3 on each so 1 is both back 2 is one mid one back 3 both mid 4one mid one forward 5both forward
would love to see a shay in this game
had two dm3 locos going out of the coal mine with two huge coal trains. needless to say it was a bit of a hassle bouncing between the two locos but they almost shrugged off the train. hood god these sluggers just don't give a shit
Betting 2 DM3 s and the DE6 Slug could pull the universe up %2 all day long ..
They should do one race in VR
What model of Hercules engine is Peewee packing? There was an alternate model to my Army-spec Brill that came with Hercules TDXC gas straight-sixes.
I shot you the info on discord :)
You should end me the d6 slug in the dm3 train together
I watched both at the same time, Hyce's voice was stacked but the discord delay was very obvious. Decided to stick with Hyce audio so i could smell for Kenosha.
Choo Fast Choo Furious
Someone once told me it takes (for freight cars) 7 minutes to charge the first car, and an additional minute for each additional car. Would you say that's still accurate?
Depends on the control valve, but I'd buy that in general.
Is that loco a variation of BR class 03 or just loosely based on one? It looks a lot like one and they are both have mechanical transmissions, though the class 03 has a 5 speed Wilson epicyclic rather than the weird setup this DM3 has.
Do the next race with the explosive tankers
You didn't tell Kan to let off of the throttle when shifting gears, so I kept hearing that dreaded sound everytime he shifted. The poor gears. I bet his fees were high on the Dm3.
I am the stackman Choochoo choochoo
Aaaaaah the 2 gearboxes get on my nerves!!!!! On the real life counterpart, it has 1 gearbox, with 5 gears, maximum speed of 28.5mph.
Oh weird!
Pls play more scrap mechanic. Also could you play hide and seek with kan and the other guys.
It's best to keep rpm up as much as possible to avoid overheating
Edit: Also, use the engine brake.
If RPM that high, you lose power. Better to keep at 2nd highest throttle position instead
@@brunoais Not really true with a diesel of this size. It is most efficient and effective to keep the engine between 800-1000 rpm.
@@theyeetus1428 For the ingame one, it's not. 800 is the max you can keep efficient and somewhat effective. The most effective RPM (in power) is between 550-700 rpm.