12V vs 24V vs 48V (For Camper Electrical Systems)
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- This video will quickly explain the pros/cons of 12V, 24V, and 48V electrical systems for campers and give you some considerations on which to choose.
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I swear every time I have a question I google it and one of your videos is there to answer it. I just want to say I appreciate your videos.
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
I don't usually comment on 1yr old videos but I'd like to say I think you did a pretty good job here, and the video has aged quite well. I'll throw in a few remarks on 48V.
One thing you didn't mention is that lowly Victron 100|20 charge controller can do 12, 24, or 48V. And at 48V and 20A that cheap itsy bitsy little charge controller can take 960W of solar all by itself. Just remembering that the minimum operating voltage from the solar panels has to be BAT+5V higher (so around 65V minimum which is typically 2 or 3 panels in series, depending on the panels). Throwing a few of those together ganged to the same battery bank is easy and gives you a bit of redundancy on the DC side pretty much for free.
DC miniature circuit breakers (DIN rail mount) are pretty cheap these days. I would say that when it comes to DC miniature breakers, consider "B" type instead of "C" type. Most will be "C" type which are great when there is a lot of inrush current, but the "B" types have tighter specs and are typically higher quality to boot. So if inrush current isn't an issue, the "B" types are the ones to go with.
For example, The Chtaixi DC miniature circuit breakers have worked well for me. Type "B", 125A at up to 110V for around $20. Of course, many amperages are available.
On DC to DC converters. The cheap no-name brands on Amazon actually do work pretty well and have basic short circuit protection, but should definitely still have a breaker or a fuse on them because they do not have over-current protection (even when they say they do, they actually don't). Beyond that, though, there isn't a whole lot that can go wrong below 10A so for running low-power stuff they're great. I have no qualms using them below 10A on the output.
More than 10A, though, is another story when it comes to DC-to-DC converters. Go with a well known brand above 10A.
For charging 48V from an alternator, consider using a "boost" style solar charge controller. Not the Victron's.. .the Victron's are all "buck" style (output voltage must be lower than the input voltage). So if you have a 12V alternator, go with a charge controller that can boost the voltage into the 48V range. That way you get a proper battery charging profile for free AND you have complete control over the charge current. i.e. get a charge controller where the maximum charge current can be set.
The great thing about this is that you have full control over the charge rate via the current setting on the charge controller, so it can be programmed to guarantee basically zero stress on the alternator even if it is charging for hours. Keeping in mind that the amperage on the 12V side will be 4x the amperage on the 48V side, of course.
Finally batteries. LiFePO4 is expensive but its freaking awesome. But I advise AGAINST putting lithium based batteries in series because even when they say they can do it, having BMS's that don't talk to each other can cause serious issues when charging if one battery decides to disconnect charging before the other battery is able to finish. Things can go out of balance pretty badly.
So lithium based batteries should universally be wired in parallel. My only other comment here is to always have at least two batteries in parallel for generous amperage margins and robustness against problems and BMS disconnects. At whatever the voltage one choses to go with.
For inverters... consider that multiple smaller inverters are an option (separate outputs, obviously not paralleled since most inverters can't do that). Inverters with lower wattage outputs also tend to have lower vampire current draw and this way heavy loads can have their own appropriately-sized breakres and won't interfere with nominal light loads.
Awesome video 😁👍🏻 the no name 48>12 buck converters are very reliable and actually have safety ratings. Designed for automotive use, they work well. Very efficient as well. To run 12V jacks, I would use a buck converter with an output voltage that was the float voltage of an AGM, then run the jack off the 12V AGM. Did this for a year and it worked great.
I did blow a buck converter to pieces when I was using it as a solar charge controller 😂 had a morning voltage spike and a capacitor blew. It was potted so it exploded to a million pieces haha
Hey Will! Thanks for watching. Good to hear about the 48V to 12V buck converters. I do know I only hear about the 'bad' experiences as rarely do people share when things are working properly. 🤣🤣
We actually did the 48V to 12V to AGM trick on the Victron Tour RV last year (except from 24V) instead of using multiple 70A 24V to 12V converters to have the ability to fire up the generator (pulling 100A at startup). Worked very well. Thanks for bringing that tip up!!
@@EXPLORISTlife oh nice!! Glad to hear it worked for you.
Yeah the bad experiences usually are screamed across the internet. Hard to know if it was user error or the device at times.
Have you built a 48V system?? You would love it 😁
Very true. Same concept, I suppose, as my gripe about connecting a 12V inverter to a 24V battery bank. Hardly the Inverter's fault. 🤣😂
I helped build a 48V system when those VE.Panels came out. Definitely cool, for sure! We almost had a video on this channel that would have been a 48V system but it fell through last minute. It was a big dual inverter system that was going to be, essentially, a battery backup system for a bunch of food trucks at the local farmers market. Will definitely put one of those on the channel ~~eventually~~.
@@WillProwse Shouldn't you also pay attention with 48v being not safe to handle?
Hello, I am will new to all things solar power and solar powered.
I did think it was needed to have a 24 volt or a 48 volt to power power tools that required lots of power in there start up? (Is this true?) I want to build a solar van build so at times it is confusing with what is on the internet.
I did think for a lot time I wanted to build a solar powered box truck, but with current changes in gas and other fuel costs I have changed my mind, but I do think long term I would like a box truck better.
I am a student and I want to do a diy solar vehicle build not to travel, but to do remote Earth Science study projects in remote locations for three to four months at a time in the western US.
Great vid Nate, this is a good explanation of differences between system voltages. You have a very clear & concise method of teaching. Andy’s Off Grid Garage Australia channel has a lot of info on 48v systems. I am currently playing with a 24v system in a bus, & a 48v system at home. In Australia we use 240vac of course. I watched ur whole 24v build, it was very clean and nice. Cheers
Rarely have I seen a complicated system explained so eloquently👀👍Thank you!
Glad it was helpful. Cheers!
Thank you for explaning this and your video summarizing at the end is perfect. Hopefully, you have 100 percent engagement through to the end!
Glad it was helpful! Cheers!!
Very nice explanation of 12v to 24v. Someday I plan on living out of a RV and your videos are giving me the ammo I need when the time comes to pull the trigger on my plans. Thanks for your helpful videos. They are very well laid out and that little blooper you left in was fun.
Perfect explanation, right to the point. We’re using 12v with 3000 watts of inverter. This is the max according to your guidelines.
Nice! Sounds like an awesome project!
Thank you for this entire series. I've used your videos and @WillProwse videos and information to build my off-grid cabin system. It came out really well, if I do say so myself. I am now going to tackle our new motorhome conversion. A Tiffin Allegro Bus 45 OPP, which is all electric, 50 amp, with a 10k Onan generator on-board. Hoping to go 48v, as I did with the cabin, but using mostly Victron components, but also considering all-in-one systems like EG4. I used MPP LV6548 at the cabin, which has worked great. Only in the planning and spitballing stages currently, but look forward to a finished product that will be used for fulltiming when I retire next year. Thanks again for all of the great content!!
Thanks for the video! Hopefully no one tried to hold you accountable for their lack of research.😬
I installed a 24v battery system in our bus and still used 4/0 wire from main busbar to the inverter(s). Really, the money saved for thinner wire (in a 1000amp system) isn’t worth the possible bottlenecks that could happen. 🤘🏼
People try to hold me accountable for their poor decisions all of the time. 😂😫 One of the biggest reasons I shut down my consulting group is that people were joining up looking for validation for the poor choices they already made instead of getting educated about decisions they were to be making in the near future. Lots of people just buying a bunch of random parts that didn't necessarily work together and expecting me to provide a plan to wire it together instead of simply using the plans I've already made available to everybody. /rant
Worth stressing that for relay or switch contacts, the DC rated current will be significantly lower than the AC rating (for the same contacts). This is because AC current drops to zero 120 times a second which helps quench any arc formed but with DC current it just keeps flowing so you need some other way to make sure you do not wear out contacts from arcing.
Indeed! ...but care to elaborate how that concept is relevant to this video? I never talked about 120V AC systems (or relays/contactors/switches) in this video.
Absolotely perfect video that I can recommend to anyone going to build your own FVE.
Lenght, used terms and explanation at highest level considering it is made for beginners.
It helped me finaly decide.
Thank you.
Watching from Nigeria really appreciate your efforts, thanks man
Nate, outstanding video, long time subscriber. I built a 24V system using a 3000W AIMS and 1030W on the roof of a 5th Wheel back in 2016 for many of the same reasons you mentioned, and I used two different 'no name' 24VDC/12VDC converters because I ended up burning the 60W version out powering the Hydraulic slide motor and had to get a 80W version. But the small one worked ok for the rest of the 12V equipment. Real world results.
When I 'upgraded' to a newer 5th Wheel in 2018 and went with a 12V all Victron setup with lithium batteries, I have noticed a significant decrease in available power, I maintained 4/0 wire between the batteries and inverter within 2 feet of each other to minimize resistance. But I can not run the AC for as long as I used to on the 24V system and the batteries were four 115A of AGM in 24V (2s2p) upgraded to four 100A of Lithium in 4p. My biggest concern is my Victron settings, I don't think the solar is prioritized as I am not using ESS or any agents. Are you no longer doing consulting?
Hey Michael! 4x 100Ah Lithium Battieries should indeed yield nearly twice as much usable power as 4x 115Ah AGM batteries, regardless of the voltage of which they are wired since their watt hours are similar (noting the usable amp hour differences between AGM and Lithium); so it definitely seems like something 'weird' is going on as seeing less power is definitely an unexpected result. Impossible for me to say for sure, though, without knowing more about the system. I'd recommend diving back into the instruction manual for your equipment to make sure everything is set up properly and/or reach out to where you purchased the equipment from for additional tech support.
Nate! I would love to see an updated take on 48v van electrical systems. I know some strides have been made in that direction over the past year as they are becoming more and more common. My problem is that I have a decent size daily power draw, about 2.5kwh, and need at least two days of autonomy putting me in the 6-7kwh area. 12v storage is problematic at that level, less so at 24v, and not an issue at all at 48v. Given my budget i would have to forgo alternator input at 48v, major loss but hoping to make up for it with 400 watt portable deployable panels when parked and a separate charge controller. Coupled with the 800 watts on my roof m hoping for 3kw generation a day. Im torn, will probably end up going with a 24v build. Also, you remind me of all my old skate punk friends i grew up with! It makes your videos even better. Ha!
We already have 12 and 24v van systems. Will have 48V versions soon. Love to have you as a shop.explorist.life customer. 🙂👍
(7kwh of storage at 12V is absolutely no problem at all and you would have great options for alternator charging with out the $3k expense of a 48v alternator)
For more context, our most popular van systems are 12V systems in the range of 5.04 - 7.56kWh of storage: shop.explorist.life
Good video! I'm currently running 12-VDC solar, but I'm upgrading to a split system: 1) 12-VCD for all of the things designed for 12 volts; and 2) A 48-VDC system for my ductless mini-split and everything else using 120-VAC.
Interesting!
Loved this video.
Myself, I’m going 24V / single 6000w dual split inverter (power to be used 110/12/24/48/240) Aims or Sun Gold Power Inverter.
My Cinderella Electric Toilet I’m going to use in my build needs 240v to operate.
So I’m going to use compact marine (Mastervolt 24V) batteries for 840 A/hr storage capacity.
So being a subscriber & learning from your channel along with other DIY has been a huge asset to me.
Looking forward to seeing your next video.
Keep up the great work!
Blessings to y’all.
I'd say your on the right track if you need 6kW worth of inverting power.
Great video Nate!! You just confirmed that I made the right decision to go with 24v. My decision was based on the AC unit and fridge as well as other components that were all 24v. For the small stuff in the RV such as lights I just use a Victron step down converter to 12v. My battery bank is a 24v 15.6KwH unit and 3000 watts of solar.
Good stuff!
Thats an impressive size battery bank! Which batteries did you go with for your setup?
@@lillyanneserrelio2187 I went with 3 EG4-LL batteries. Fits nicely in their triple bank server rack.
For a remote garden shed, used on weekends in the summer, a 24V system can be a cost-effective solution.
There are also 24V accessories and lighting. It may then have to be a 12V DC lighting system.
Very helpful. Definitely helps me know where my system falls in the scope of things and simplifies my choices. Easy call once outlined like this.
Glad it helped!
Perfect timing! We’ve been considering 24V for our 1450W+ needs but feel a little confused since everything we’ve learned so far has been 12V. Super excited for the install video!
Glad it was helpful!
it's all the same as far as how things get connected with the exception of charging from the engine. For many vehicles you can get a second alternator at 24 volts you can wire directly to your camper/RV system. You just can't mix the home part of the RV with the driving/vehicle part.
@@dodgeplow Not exactly the same, no. There are some key differences. The battery bank gets wired differently as does the small 12V load side of things. The solar voltage needs to be higher too. To say that "everything is the same" is sending people down the path of connecting a 12v Inverter to a 24v battery bank. 💥💥💥
@@EXPLORISTlife You're right. I should be careful what I say on a technical discussion. I mean you still need a charge controller, batteries, inverter if you want AC, etc. You change from parallel to series for each pair of 12 v batteries. In my plan, I'd also only use 24 volt items including USB chargers, LED lights, etc, so I don't have to step down to 12 v.
I think 48V systems are becoming more viable for RVs. Victron's own 275A on/off switches are now officially rated at 60V DC, so work fine for 48V nominal systems. For higher amperages, you can get Dihool 400A circuit breakers rated for up to 200V DC for less than $100. I think for those putting in dual 5000VA inverters, 48V is the way to go. Still hoping for better selection of 48V DC-DC converters and chargers though. Also, the typical Mega fuses used in Lynx distributors are cheap for 12/24V systems (about $4 each), but much more money for 48V systems (about $30 each).
You are a amazing teacher my friend! Thank you for the break down!
Glad it was helpful! Cheers!
Thank you Nate! I've been waiting for this video specifically. Extremely helpful
Glad it was helpful!
Great video! I really like your "big picture" review. I'm so over battery teardown videos. (not that you did many of them)
Glad it helped! I never really got into battery teardown videos. I'm not passionate about comparing the micro-details of all of the different batteries on the market and Will Prowse does such a good job of it, I'd rather spend my efforts on other topics.
Thanks for this information, I was thinking about going to a 48 volt system in our 35’ bus but I think I am going to scale down to a 24 volt system for the reasons you explained.
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Its fine, I'll take the jab about frying the system lol and thank you thank you for the additional information, i didnt know about the victron add-ons. I know Ive been bugging you about the 48v system even flaggin you down at the Expo which I was as excited as a kid in a candy store seeing you two (my apologies, cant watch a channel for 4+ years and not be excited to meet you).
🤣🙌👍
Thank u Nate Good to see Will Here to Mate say Hello to Steph See u Next week Look Forward to another Camper Power Build Take Care
🙌🙌👍
GREAT video, answered a few questions I had so, thank you.
No problem. Happy to help!
Awesome perspective! I was trying to do some research on a 48V system and kept hitting dead ends and lots of open questions. Seeing this video helped explain why. I'm waiting for that 24V build video as I too was looking at the GC 3 batteries. As always Nate, you are amazing and helping our Sprinter build move along quickly. We are a few steps behind you just wrapping up Lizard Skin 🙂
Hey! Just wanted to follow up on this. We just released a video featuring a 24V battery bank system you may find helpful. Here's the link: ruclips.net/video/E5q7_4FH4LQ/видео.html
@@EXPLORISTlife Thanks! We ended up buying the plans and wiring kit from you along with all the hardware from Battleborn for the 24v system. Just waiting for it to arrive to get started!
my Isuzu truck which is a 2010 Isuzu 300/75 NPS crew truck which full 24v
thank you for your detailed video
from Australia
Ah, nice! Not too many vehicles with 24V systems from the factory here in the USA.
Enjoyed , well worth watching as this information I will need to know eventually. Hope to start a build next year. Cheers guys
Glad it was helpful. Cheers!
I love your videos; can you add a video. What you recomend for equipment for Multiple TVs and Speakers for gaming trailer.
Thank you for your explanation it makes a lot of sense I appreciate it and keep up the good work🤗
Glad it was helpful!
I went with a 24v system in a travel trailer to save some money. 1260W solar array, 10.2KWH battery bank. I used a DC-DC converters to step down to 12v for distribution panel and another for the tongue jack. E-brake, etc. However, there was one thing I did not consider. We have an onboard generator that has a 12v starter. So I also have a small 12v battery with a 12v charger just for the generator. Don't make my mistake :(
best to have redunant batteries, if the 24v system is down you cant get your 12v to the genny started to charge it up anyways.
Yeah, I've actually done that exact same thing before. Glad you found a workaround!
A year ago, I decided to order a transit and started planning. I had decided to go with a 24v system and started buying components and researching. I am a week or two from doing the electrical system and was more than pleased that this dropped as actual details on 24v system installs are pretty close to non-existent!! Looking forward to your excellent presentation on a topic that desperately needs an explorist drop! Thanks, as always, for sharing! I just hunted your site for a 24v diagram and only found that monster system. Will you be adding a diagram for the system you are about to install in your van?
Nice! Yes, we will have not only a diagram available for the upcoming system... but also a full parts kit with all of the wire, fuses, heat shrink, lugs, components, enclosure plan, etc to make it work.
@@EXPLORISTlife I'm up to my a$$ in all the 'parts', but, we'll see if I got the right stuff. If not, I'll be ordering! :)
The DC fuse block looks so nice
Thanks so much! Yeah, I'm super happy with how it turned out.
wow dude, really loving your videos. subscribed
Good vid, solid info and summary at the end.
Glad it was helpful. Cheers!
I've been following your RUclips channel for a couple of years now and I am appreciate your knowledge and you take the time to put out these videos to teach us... I have a question just off the subject and maybe you can help me with because you are obviously know everything when it comes to AC, 12 volt and solar power.. You're basically an electrical engineer... So my question is I bought a 2009 travel trailer 2 weeks ago went to plug it in to 30 amp Shore power in it keeps tripping the shore power breaker.. I checked the Shore power with a multimeter and it is wired correctly and producing 130 volts so I pull out the campers fuse box and no loose wires and the breakers work fine on the AC side... So them I checked the inverter which is a Power Max that's only 3 years old and everything checked out okay with it as well... The funny thing is is I can use an adapter on my 30 amp plug and plug into a regular 110 20 amp residential Outlet and I get power it's just only 20 amps worth of power not the 30 that I need to run the residential refrigerator and the air conditioner at the same time.. Do you have any suggestions or advice about what my problem is or what to look for..? Thank you in advance...
I'd probably start with checking a different shore power pedestal to see if the issue is in the shore power pedestal or in your camper.
Great explanation, thanks!
Thinking of adding 48 volt panels on top to charge an ecoflow 2000 watt battery bank. 12 volt charge will take 11 hours to charge, 48volt will charge in under 2.
EXCELLENT tips thank you very much
Great video! Thank you for what you do for the community.
Hey Mike Avila, No problem! Glad it helped! :)
Thank you for making this video.
Glad it was helpful!
12v it is. Thank you for the intel report. 👍
No problem 👍
Excellent 👍
Thanks for information
Jour language is realli understand)
If I want to keep my 8 12v 100Ah lithium batteries in a line of 8 due to space constraints, can I join two groups of 4 12 v batteries in parallel (2 x 12v@400 Ah) and then those 2 in series to get a 24v system for 24v@400 Ah ? And by the way, you guys have a really informative and helpful channel. Keep it up !
I have a 270 amp alternator feeding 4 chassis batteries. These then power a dc to dc converter charging another 4 house batteries that are also 24 V. I have a 4000 W 24 V inverter/charger. I use a transformer off the batteries 24 V down to 12 V. This powers all the lights, ceiling fans, phones, etc. Everything else is 129 V, fridge, stove, tv. Has worked very well so far. I am considering solar but I think if I did it I would want to go with a few thousand watts. Not sure if its worth the investment or not.
Excellent explanations as usual... Gesundheit!
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Hi Nate that was very informative.
This will be my second RV 5th Wheel solar install. My first was 12v 600ah of lithium batteries 1550w of Solar with all victron components. I was planning on a 48v setup but after watching your video I think 24v may be a better option this time but here is my situation. I will have the following 12v accessories. Disk brake pump (critical), hydraulic slides and leveling jack's, electric slides, 4 tank heaters, 12v compressor fridge, plus lights and water pump.
The new system will have 800ah battery, 1600w of Solar with Victron components.
Do you think I should keep it at 12 v, I can keep the cable size manageable with lynx components and having the inverter and battery bank close or have the 24v bank plus one 100 ah 12v battery connected to a 30amp DC-DC charger to take care of critical and high load 12v as well as connecting to the truck for charging, or use something else? I am very interested in your opinion. Many thanks.
Unless I missed it, you should also mention that a 12 volt system will cost more for the fuses and other hardware to handle the higher current.
I did indeed talk about that, yes. I also talked about the fact that connecting a 12V Inverter to a 24V battery bank would be far more expensive than all the wires and fuses combined if cost is the sole choice-factor in choosing one system over the other (like I've seen too many times).
@@EXPLORISTlife I stand corrected. You did touch on it at 2:15.
Another excellent video, thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it
Very good video, thanks ( nice sneeze)
😂🤣
good info and simple straight to the point... i sub ..and you interact with your comments
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Great info, thanks for the succinct video!
[looks up the meaning of the word succinct] Hey Jason! No problem. Thanks for watching! 👍😃🤣
Now, of course, the Tesla Cybertruck will be 48Volts... otherwise I completely agree with you, 48V Victron Multiplus-II 48/5000/70 at home and a Multiplus-II 12/2000/80 in my off-road Caravan. Might be a change in the air in a year or two.
Clear explanation 👍
Thank you 🙂
*Check out our newest 24V system build:* ruclips.net/video/E5q7_4FH4LQ/видео.html
For a Van, what would be the most appropriate roof air condition??
great series of videos!
For deciding 12v, does
Finally a video that explains 12 vs 24 for noobs.
Excellent video.
Thank you very much!
Learn new stuff every video 🤓 Zyrtec is much better than Allegra though 🤣
🤧🤧🤧
Great video 👍🥇
You did a good summary for all 3 options .
Now I need to know your opinion about the new Eco Flow 48 Volts system , used for any RV application.
Will wait for your opinion and comments .
Kindest regards 💌🌹
In general, I'm not a fan of those all-in-one units like those for permanently installed systems. For a 'charge it up and chuck it in the truck', units like those, Goal Zero, Jackery, and similar are great. But for high end, permanently installed systems like I teach on this channel, a system with individual components will give far greater flexibility, customizability, and power scaling potential.
@@EXPLORISTlifemakes sense. Before I was looking into inverter battery build I used a ecoflow delta pro for rv. With extra battery. It worked for like 1 hrs then tripped the internal bms and I couldn't reset it. It dawned on me then that all in one systems like ecoflow delta pro are nice for emergency, but the lack of serviceability is something u lose.
Amen!
We can use less than or equal to 2 AWG Cu wire in Texas.
2 AWG is a lot smaller than 4/0
So I'm doing a camper conversion with an enclosed trailer with standard exterior 12V LED lights. Each single light has the negative/ground attached the the frame (it seems most trailers do this). I already have 24V batteries that I want to use as my main bank. I plan to power the 12V trailer lights from a 12V panel (after the 24/12 converter, of course) from my main system. In other words, I'm not using the tiny 12V battery that came with the trailer. The big question is if I have a 24V Victron Multiplus II (2x120), will the ground wire from the Multiplus (connected to the metal frame) interfere with the grounds of 12V trailer lights already installed?
Thanks for your great videos. Very helpful.
You can easily get 48/58/72/100V DC 250A power switches.
search for emergency stop/switch/push button for electric forklifts. should cost
At 4:57 you talk about Victron's 48/12 in relation to charging from an alternator. That victron is not for connecting to a 12 volt alternator, it transfers from 48 volt to 12 volt. Input voltage is 40-70 volt, output is 12.2.
Are you talking about a 48 volt alternator there? At 4:40 you talke about a 12 volt alternator, so I am confused here
Thanks for the video! I'm basically sold on the EG4 48v server rack batteries and the 6500EX-48 for my van. Would be perfect for running some of my power tools while working. The only thing that puts me off is the price of the 48v alternators to recharge battery bank... hopefully there are some more options within the next 12 months?
Be sure to check the warranty and user manual for those batteries. They are not to be used in an installation subject to vibration and if the batteries are not installed per the user manual, the warranty is void. 😬🫣
Can you list some of the B2B chargers that turn the "12v" alternator power from the van into "24v" to charge a 24v battery bank please.
I know an the 12v & 24v are nominal voltages. The vans alternator puts out more than 12v to charge a battery and a 24v battery will require more than 24v to charge it. Keep up the great work.
Sure! The victron orion-tr smart 12/24-15a is a 'small' one, and for larger ones, look into the Victron Buck Boost. The 100A model will charge a 24V battery bank from a 12V alternator at a rate of ~1200W.
@@EXPLORISTlife Thank you much for the detailed reply.
Ecoflow makes a system that can charge their 48 volt batteries from Alternators but it is super expensive.
I plan on building a skoolie in the future that will have 4,400 watts of solar so that system will need to be 48 volts!
Nice! We will have options for 48V systems soon.
Incredible channel!!! You have my attention! I’m about ready to begin this project. Questions. Do you sell the Victron line or just the materials needed? Also do you offer one on one consultation if I have questions during the install? (Can I PM you for example)
We have both victron components and the wiring kits needed. We can offer tech support if you run into an issue, but it's REALLY REALLY REALLY important to watch the videos covering the installation on our channel here. We don't sell anything we haven't already made a tutorial for, which makes 'one-on-one' consultation not necessary.
No hybrid options?
There's no such thing as a hybrid battery bank voltage, that I know of.
Excellent, note Winnebago Boldt is 48V system
Yeah, OEM's have a lot more flexibility to do things due to their buying power at scale and availability to get parts not available to us DIYers.
How many volts do you need for RV AC? Mine has a 25 fuse
Nate, Love your channel, I followed you plans last year for a 3000w inverter and 400 amp hours of batteries. I have not installed a roof rack and solar yet. And love the new series. I wanted to follow your recommendations with the roof rack and solar. Will my system handle all that solar and the AC unit?
Roof Rack: Yes! If you've got a compatible Ford Transit, of course.
Solar array: Also yes, but with the adjustment of a charge controller, which I've already assembled in this kit: shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/camper-wiring-kits/solar-charging-wiring-kits/580w-solar-charging-wiring-kit-12v-battery-bank/
For the AC... We are using a 24V Air Conditioner in this build. If you've used a 12V system, you'll just have to swap over to a 12V Air Conditioner. The nomadic 12V 3000 AC is the same dimensions as the 24V version, I do believe.
The only 'issue' you'll run into is you likely don't have enough space on your Lynx Distributor to add the Air Conditioner. If you have enough space, you'll want to add a 2nd Lynx Distributor. If not... you can hang a MRBF terminal fuse off the far right end of the Lynx Distributor, if you have room there, for the additional circuit.
I have a 24v system with 6v golf cart batts but will upgrade to lithium eventually, the remanufactured golf cart batts just won't go bad tho(it's been 4 years and still going)...
Nice! Glad it hear it's working well for you.
I would like to install a 24 volt lithium batter system, 1200 AH. Wonder if you could discuss why, I am told, I need downstream of the 24/12 DC converter, a 12 volt AGM style battery. I have a diesel pusher motorhome and it is equipped with a switch that temporarily allows me to start the main engine with the house batteries. I suppose that the generator is also started from house batteries. I really do not understand why I just can't connect the 12 volt output from the converter to the 12 volt bus on my motorhome and all should be well? Please make a video explaining this. Thanks.
Is there a solution for charging 24V batteries from the van's engine? I guess some dc/dc converter could work, but isn't that expensive and inefficient?
what about finding lights and all other devices on 24V, isn't that an issue?
Got a question for you Nate.. I have a 12v trailer.. four 100Ah BB lithiums, four 400w panels, Victron 150\100 controller, cerbo and bmv 712.. I recently bought a 48v Multiplus. I have 30a shore power as well.. just getting the RV ready for offgrid living. Is this a good combination..?
Why would the switching problem mentioned be a problem for 48v when you could put a 12v switch on the input side of the converter?
Because that's not necessarily where a disconnect is needed.
I have a question I hope you can answer.
I'm getting 8 400 amp hour lithium batteries. I'm getting a 6000 watt inverter it has four 110 volt plugs and it has the terminal block that I can hook in 10 gauge wire. I will usually 10-gauge wire to hook into a 30 amp RV plug.
I would then take the 30 amp RV plug coming from the camper and plugging it into the 30 amp RV plug it is hooked into the inverter. I was planning on then running everything in the camper off the lithium-ion batteries including the air conditioner. I was then going to buy a 48 volt charger to recharge the lithium batteries as needed off of an inverter gas generator.
If you understand what I said here, will this work okay?
I will not be charging the lithium batteries off the truck that will pull the camper.
Hello, I'm from Brazil and I'm thinking about building an expedition motorhome with a 48 volt battery bank. Today in 2024 would you set up a 48 volt system? Has your opinion changed regarding 2022? Do we today have components to assemble a motorhome at 48 volts and safely take loads from a 12 volt alternator?
No change, no. Try the 'system picker' on the home page of shop.explorist.life to be pointed in the right direction of a system we recommend.
Hello, i have a 200w kit and one battery,(Redodo 100ah 12v)..im just using a smart charger to play with the battery and stuff i want to power.. which are just some USB powered Led lights,a road pro lunch box cooker,a 110w 110v crock pot (not at same time)..
I just have a cigarette lighter plug with 2 USB outlets, the 100w duralast plug in inverter (just for that crock pot,it must run lower than the 110w its rated for because it powers it or the inverter is a bit more than the 100w its rated for..
Now that you know what i have,here's my question..
The lighter USB outlet, the wires are little,nowhere near the #4 wires, the holes to screw any wires to the controller are tiny.. the wires from the panels aren't even that big.. so I'm super confused about proper wire size and hooking it in.. im having difficulty just telling which is hot and ground on the panels too
What if you fall into the first category but have an extensive mechanical(some electrical) background? I plan to order the nomadic cooling 3000 here soon and can't decide 12v or 24v. Would the only savings there be in the cost of wiring and connectors? I'm assuming the performance will be the same between the two? Can't wait for next weeks video, love the content!
The performance will indeed be similar between the two units.
So I have done a fair amount of residential wiring, understand 110ac and also fixed a lot of car. The Victron stuff is ridiculously clumsy, unintegrated mess. The EcoFlow uses 48v batteries, and three of them provide 1300amp hours at 12 volts. Their hub controls EVERYTHING so a 12v alternator can charge the 48v batteries. Install time is about two hours. Tell me why I want to put up with the
Victron components are simply higher quality components (as can be seen by the warranty period for each component and Victron components are more powerful as needed as the systems can be set up to be infinitely customizable.
The Victron vs Ecoflow comparison is like asking somebody who races cars why they need a sports car when a Toyota Prius will get them from point A to B just fine.
Options, knowledge, money, like in solar many questions to figure out what you really need, simply easier to buy a house lol
I think it's like that with all hobbies. It took me 3 weeks to choose my last set of mountain bike tires. 😂
My needs consist of being able to plug these devices: my phone, laptop, convection oven, hot plate, heater , mini fridge (70 watts)
4. World it be better to just get an inverter generator?
Great video! I’m about to purchase a victron set up but I’m conflicted between the multiplus and multiplus ll. I mostly see the plus being used though the plus ll has been out for years. Also the plus ll has steel case, spring connectors and is taller, all of which is concerning hearing about frying the unit if wires aren’t fully seated! I’m expecting my 170 sprinter in July? I’m leaning towards the plus with aluminum case. Help!?
The main consideration between the two units is their physical dimension. The original Multiplus 3k is shorter and fatter and the ii is taller and skinnier; which means it often can't fit in as many places.
'wires not being fully seated' can be a problem no matter the unit, but if you take special care and have good workmanship; that's a non issue.
@@EXPLORISTlife
Thank you so much Nate! I’m going with the plus even with the higher price?? as it will fit and I’ve never been a fan of push connect terminals. I planned my system with the plus and just started to see the plus ll? Oh well, Thanks again! I love your classes and advice. Looking forward to meeting you at a van expo event one day. 👍
Hello Nate. Im building a 1440w 24 volt solar system with 400ah 24v batteries. I cant not find the drawing to purchase from you for a 24v system like this. Can you point me in the right direction please ? Thank you!
Hello Nat, all your videos seem excellent to me, a lot of information and very clear. If possible, I would like to ask you a question. I have a 30ft travel trailer, it has a 110 volt 30 amp electrical connection. What would your opinion be if I installed a solar panel, a battery bank and a 48 volt inverter that would supply direct power to my 110 volt connector. Thanks for your help, I would really appreciate it.
I very much dislike the idea of a 48V inverter in your system. As long as 3000w of inverting power would meet your needs, this is what I'd recommend: www.explorist.life/30a-camper-inverter-with-solar-and-alternator-charging-wiring-diagram/
@@EXPLORISTlife Thank Nate very much for the help
Can have 24v solar power going into a change controller them into a 12v battery
I heard solar panels will charge sooner or earlier in the day at a higher voltage, is that true?
Yes
We are converting our 2003 ford cargo van to a camper van. We found the Goal Zero 3000 works best for our needs. Is there any advantage to using a 12v TV vs AC? If so do you have any recommendations?
Great video
Thanks!
Does Victron have a solar.chsrge controller that can accept 24v/36v/48v input from the solar panels, but step down output to 12v to charge a 12v battery bank?
Yep! All of the Victron SmartSolar MPPT's do that. This should help: ruclips.net/video/Jkbs84sBHsg/видео.html
There's an Australian company called Safiery building campervan components with Victron interface capability with alternator charging/dc-dc of 48v - 12v up to 3000w
If you're talking about their 48V alternator swap, that's the same isssue I talked about in this video regarding availability, due to either supply chain, or not every vehicle not having the capability to run a 2nd alternator.
@@EXPLORISTlife not a Alt swap, its a DC-DC, they call it the "Scotty" and "killer wasp"
Ah, nice! It will be interesting to see if it becomes more available here in the US. No retailers available at the moment, it looks like. Purchasing direct from them and importing it looks like it MAY be an option...
Hi Nate thank you for the amazing explanation! Is it possible to take a solar array producing 60v 16amp run it through a 12v, 24v, 48v MPPT solar controller and charge a 48v battery bank and then cut the solar array breaker, reconnect to the 12v bank using a 1, 2 off (non both) battery selector switch. One for the negative and another for the positive side, turn the breaker back on and reset the solar controller for 12v? If so or no is there a better way?
I'm not really following why you'd want to do that. Here is a list of diagrams that shows you how I recommend designing a system: www.explorist.life/solarwiringdiagrams