Just bought 2011 Buick regal turbo.unable to fine service/repair manual on it. Your video very informative. Enjoy it will follow up on future’s video Thank you. I’m in West Wyoming Pennsylvania.
Unfortunately there are no service manuals for our cars for free. Have to pay online subscription to get full access. There are a few videos though that help with certain issues but most part have to figure out on own.
I have to do this asap apparently to my 2013 regal. Thought I had to lift engine out to do this but guess I don't. Thank you for your video and all your info about this. I've never done this so I hope all goes as smooth as your video. I am mechanically inclined and have most tools. If I have questions or run into problems I hope you will help more. Thank you once again. Jeff
Looks like a job but doable with some patience. I've been a mechanic for 8 years and always afraid of timing. I guess I need to do one so I can get over my fear.
Thank you for this video. I now know that I will not attempt to do this myself 😂 my 2011 regal turbo just completely stopped working as I made a right turn. Lost all power and power steering. Codes p0366 p0341 saying it’s the cam sensors. I believe my timing chain has failed. 😭
Unfortunately all Regal and vehicles that have same type of motor need to have timing chains done at 200,000-240,000km mark. Mine is going on 191,000km and have to change now. Scanner said cam out of timing yesterday when I scanned.
Ive done this twice on my daughters car. At 100k and again at 210k. Apparently 100k is all they're good for. Same black guide that breaks😠 Mite be a good idea to change the guides periodically as preventative maintenance
So…. 11 regal 2.0 turbo. Kids car. Not the best in maintenance. Has had a check engine light on forever. Kid is an adult-ish. His mom pushes us to help. Codes set for po246. Wastegate solenoid circuit high. ONLY hard code. Oh…. And there’s a noise…. Pin out the solenoid per the chard(after checking the basics…. ) and confirm voltage coming from the ECM. Ugh. Order an ecm…. While I have the car i’ll fix a few leaks and fix a noise…. Pull valve cover and find sludge and some fun gold flecks….. the chain had almost cut THROUGH the upper guide. Picked up tensioner, upper guide enough oil to flush three times and 4 filters…. Cleaned, vacuumed everything I could see, replaced upper guide(across cam phasers) rolled exhaust cam rearward to put all slack in the tensioner portion…. replaced tensioner… (that was a sob to start for some reason) it pushes way in and the chain guide moves a lot with resistance so i’m 90 percent certain it’s deployed… and i still have WAY too much slack in this chain. I keep looking and where the revised bolt you explain in your front timing chain guide should be…. There is only the original cover bolt…. Looking down i see no guide….. no guide bolt…. And some healthy grooves where the chain slack has been dragging the cylinder head case and upperblock/timing chain passages. Where the F is the missing bolt and guide pieces….. not how i wanted to spend my friday night….. but tomorrow i’ll pick up Everything you did in the video….. 150000 mile regal for sale in STL. Lol. Thanks for the great video.
Having to do this to see the cam for ensuring the position on the reluctor wheel on exhaust cam, due to vacuum pump failure. Im wondering whether to replace the cam or if I can move the reluctor wheel back, or if it’s keyed on. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
I have a 2011 2.0 Buick. Just for preventive maintenance I purchased PCV valve. I'm having problems locating it. Is it inside the stainless looking tube coming off back of engine? or inline from the intake
The PCV valve in a 2.0 liter LNF/LHU engine is INSIDE the intake manifold., sandwiched between the intake and the cylinder head. So, to see it you have already removed the intake manifold from the engine and the PCV valve from the intake manifold.
Awesome video, thank you!! My 2.0L turbo Regal abruptly quit running and gave codes P0016 and P0017. Starter turned the engine fine but no ignition. Dealer’s shop found indications of interference via borescope and said $10k to rebuild or $7.5k to replace entire engine. Does it make sense that the starter cranks the engine easily even though there was apparently interference damage?? I would have expected the engine to quit cranking over if there were interference. Any experience with actual interference failures? Thank you!!
You're probably looking at 1500-2000$ unfortunately. In Canada this is what I would have to pay. Most people just give up on their vehicles when having to do anything with internal to their motors. I'm going to have to take the challenge and do this myself. Never have I done timing on any vehicle and this will be my first. Most people don't know what to do or have the tools to do it. Hope this answer helps you and you can get it fixed.
My 2013 Buick 2.0 turbo failed at start up in the morning. Did you, or should I, rotate the valves so they are closed to see it I bent any valves before doing the timing chains? Is there a better method to see if more damage was done? It turns over and sounds like no cylinders have compression. Thanks
No. It was a fault that would return a few seconds later after clearing. The repair manual said to check the timing components. If you were good with an oscilloscope and had a known good cam/crank waveform to go off of, you could scope the cam/crank and come to the conclusion that it was out of time.
What brand should i buy this kit my car is starting to make a lil noise in throttle im not sure if melling or other name brand make all the parts needed
@@The-roman-muslim Because that small 1/32" hole is the root cause of excessive oil consumption, VVT not working properly, misfires, etc ... DRILL OUT THAT HOLE TO AT LEAST 5/16". That is if NOTHING else has gone wrong.
So I have a 2013 gs so I guess this is what I'll have to go thru when is time to change it I guess is at 1000.000 miles is required to change ,how much do you think this job will cost at regular shop?
2013 Buick regal 200,000 miles. My timing chain wore through the guide and came off. The shop said if the timing chain was replaced it would likely just fail again in a couple months. They said I need a new engine. Is this true, would the timing chain only last a couple months?
Pcv They’re lucky I have a 2.4 and they do not have a PCV valve this is why they have problems with rear main seals because there’s nowhere for the pressure to go
The PCV valve in a 2.0 liter LNF/LHU engine is INSIDE the intake manifold., sandwiched between the intake and the cylinder head. So, to see it you have already removed the intake manifold from the engine and the PCV valve from the intake manifold.
@@automotiveinsight wow. I have a 2014 Buick regal turbo 2.0 - the car will fire up and run fine until it warms up and then it falls on its face! If you keep the car above 1k rpm it’ll drive. It has no power once it warms up and it seems like it’s all RPM’s and no go while blowing a little white smoke. I replaced the turbo and such but it didn’t fix the issue.
I’d check dtc’s first. But it sounds like it might be an air fuel ratio issue once the car gets into closed loop. I’d be checking fuel trims, O2 voltages, map voltages, etc.
@@automotiveinsight I’m not getting any codes at all. Before this issue started, I was getting an underboost code, I changed out the waste gate solenoid and I believe it has gone away since.
So I am working on it now but the timing cover is a problem. I noticed when it got removed on your video that when pry bar was inserted and used quickly, the timing cover was already off mostly. I've used pry bars and it won't budge at all. Those service points you pointed out don't hold the edge of pry bar. Also there's no room for a large pry bar to get at them. I see where you are talking about. So how did you get it off?
@@automotiveinsight I do have all out and got it off finally. My service points were on very bottom of the cover on the sides at weird angles and could only use a 8" pry bar to get at them. But I got it off and should be smooth sailing from here. Will be replacing all parts in the am. Your video helped a lot and I can't thank you enough. Have a good evening and again...thank you!
I noticed there was oil in the turbo charge pipe which is a problem I also have with mine. Is that indicative of the bearings in the turbo going out since they're oil cooled?
Oil in the charge pipe is common for turbo charged vehicles. I usually check the turbo for excessive end play by grabbing the impeller and moving it up and down and in and out. On this same vehicle the turbo did fail about 3 months later
Great video!! I don’t think I’ll ever do this myself but great to see a thorough step-by-step
I would be scared to try it myself but if I had to, this is a great video to reference.
Thank you!
Just bought 2011 Buick regal turbo.unable to fine service/repair manual on it. Your video very informative. Enjoy it will follow up on future’s video Thank you. I’m in West Wyoming Pennsylvania.
Awesome. Thank you!
Unfortunately there are no service manuals for our cars for free. Have to pay online subscription to get full access. There are a few videos though that help with certain issues but most part have to figure out on own.
That not true I got one
@@roygarcia205where?!!
I have to do this asap apparently to my 2013 regal. Thought I had to lift engine out to do this but guess I don't. Thank you for your video and all your info about this. I've never done this so I hope all goes as smooth as your video. I am mechanically inclined and have most tools. If I have questions or run into problems I hope you will help more. Thank you once again. Jeff
Thanks. Good luck!
Was thinking of attenpting but just watching you do it , gave me anxiety 😂
I have no idea what’s going on here, but it’s put together very well.
Bless ur soul I was so confused when he said darker and not the color
Looks like a job but doable with some patience. I've been a mechanic for 8 years and always afraid of timing. I guess I need to do one so I can get over my fear.
It can be a little unnerving the first few times, but you get better with practice.
@@automotiveinsight tearing apart isn't the issue. It is knowing where to line up the marks. I'd love to add timing to my list of repair services. 😊
Love the regal just as much as i hate it lmao Sorry but definitely a Toyota or a Honda next car!! Great video btw Thank You!
Hahah took the words right out of my mouth
Thank you for this video. I now know that I will not attempt to do this myself 😂 my 2011 regal turbo just completely stopped working as I made a right turn. Lost all power and power steering. Codes p0366 p0341 saying it’s the cam sensors. I believe my timing chain has failed. 😭
Unfortunately all Regal and vehicles that have same type of motor need to have timing chains done at 200,000-240,000km mark. Mine is going on 191,000km and have to change now. Scanner said cam out of timing yesterday when I scanned.
What a job geez!!
Geeznutz
Using this video to replace chain guide on Buick regal gs 2013. I’ll return once it’s finished up.
Finish it?
@@andrewbartle1299man must of gaven up or its his new project damn rip i hope he figured it out
Seven months? Cam rocked and pinched his finger…. He’s been waiting for help all this time.
Ive done this twice on my daughters car. At 100k and again at 210k. Apparently 100k is all they're good for. Same black guide that breaks😠 Mite be a good idea to change the guides periodically as preventative maintenance
So…. 11 regal 2.0 turbo. Kids car. Not the best in maintenance. Has had a check engine light on forever. Kid is an adult-ish. His mom pushes us to help. Codes set for po246. Wastegate solenoid circuit high. ONLY hard code.
Oh…. And there’s a noise…. Pin out the solenoid per the chard(after checking the basics…. ) and confirm voltage coming from the ECM. Ugh. Order an ecm…. While I have the car i’ll fix a few leaks and fix a noise…. Pull valve cover and find sludge and some fun gold flecks….. the chain had almost cut THROUGH the upper guide. Picked up tensioner, upper guide enough oil to flush three times and 4 filters…. Cleaned, vacuumed everything I could see, replaced upper guide(across cam phasers) rolled exhaust cam rearward to put all slack in the tensioner portion…. replaced tensioner… (that was a sob to start for some reason) it pushes way in and the chain guide moves a lot with resistance so i’m 90 percent certain it’s deployed… and i still have WAY too much slack in this chain.
I keep looking and where the revised bolt you explain in your front timing chain guide should be…. There is only the original cover bolt…. Looking down i see no guide….. no guide bolt…. And some healthy grooves where the chain slack has been dragging the cylinder head case and upperblock/timing chain passages.
Where the F is the missing bolt and guide pieces….. not how i wanted to spend my friday night….. but tomorrow i’ll pick up
Everything you did in the video…..
150000 mile regal for sale in STL. Lol. Thanks for the great video.
Should we replace the timing chain if nothing is wrong with it??
Thank You!
You're welcome!
Having to do this to see the cam for ensuring the position on the reluctor wheel on exhaust cam, due to vacuum pump failure. Im wondering whether to replace the cam or if I can move the reluctor wheel back, or if it’s keyed on. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
I have a 2011 2.0 Buick. Just for preventive maintenance I purchased PCV valve. I'm having problems locating it. Is it inside the stainless looking tube coming off back of engine? or inline from the intake
The PCV valve in a 2.0 liter LNF/LHU engine is INSIDE the intake manifold., sandwiched between the intake and the cylinder head. So, to see it you have already removed the intake manifold from the engine and the PCV valve from the intake manifold.
Love it 😀
You didn't show the most challenging part. Installing the chain with cam gears?
How did you tighten the crank shaft bolt with out it turning the engine ?
We used 1/2 inch impact gun to tighten the crank bolt
@@Tubetechnician the New torque -to-yield bolt?
Awesome video, thank you!! My 2.0L turbo Regal abruptly quit running and gave codes P0016 and P0017. Starter turned the engine fine but no ignition. Dealer’s shop found indications of interference via borescope and said $10k to rebuild or $7.5k to replace entire engine. Does it make sense that the starter cranks the engine easily even though there was apparently interference damage?? I would have expected the engine to quit cranking over if there were interference. Any experience with actual interference failures? Thank you!!
Yeah that makes sense. It will usually just bend the valves, then it has no compression so it spins over faster.
This looks expensive. What would you all estimate this would cost in a usa metro or suburb area?
You're probably looking at 1500-2000$ unfortunately. In Canada this is what I would have to pay. Most people just give up on their vehicles when having to do anything with internal to their motors. I'm going to have to take the challenge and do this myself. Never have I done timing on any vehicle and this will be my first. Most people don't know what to do or have the tools to do it. Hope this answer helps you and you can get it fixed.
My 2013 Buick 2.0 turbo failed at start up in the morning. Did you, or should I, rotate the valves so they are closed to see it I bent any valves before doing the timing chains? Is there a better method to see if more damage was done? It turns over and sounds like no cylinders have compression. Thanks
I would probably pull the valve cover, the get a cylinder leakage tester and see if you have any leakage on the cylinders while the valves are closed.
How much did the customer pay for this fix?
How long of a job is this and how much would you charge?
it would be great if i could hear your commentary.
This was our first video. We’ve gotten microphones since.
Hey guys, any other diagnostics that pointed to the timing chain other than the trouble codes? Great content. Thanks!
No. It was a fault that would return a few seconds later after clearing. The repair manual said to check the timing components. If you were good with an oscilloscope and had a known good cam/crank waveform to go off of, you could scope the cam/crank and come to the conclusion that it was out of time.
@automotiveinsight how do u get the quick connect oil hose off the back of the valve cover that runs to turbo there's no room to put a tool in it
What brand should i buy this kit my car is starting to make a lil noise in throttle im not sure if melling or other name brand make all the parts needed
Melling is good. We used cloyes.
All this work is done in vane if you did not clean/drillbigger hole for PCV hole.
How comes ?
@@The-roman-muslim Because that small 1/32" hole is the root cause of excessive oil consumption, VVT not working properly, misfires, etc ... DRILL OUT THAT HOLE TO AT LEAST 5/16". That is if NOTHING else has gone wrong.
So I have a 2013 gs so I guess this is what I'll have to go thru when is time to change it I guess is at 1000.000 miles is required to change ,how much do you think this job will cost at regular shop?
Ball park $1500-2500 depending on what parts they use and what the labor rate is.
@@automotiveinsight ok thank you
2013 Buick regal 200,000 miles. My timing chain wore through the guide and came off. The shop said if the timing chain was replaced it would likely just fail again in a couple months. They said I need a new engine.
Is this true, would the timing chain only last a couple months?
If you replaced the guides and other timing components at the same time, I wouldn’t think it would be an issue.
If the timing chain came off then yes you would need a new or rebuilt engine
Okay just to say MY YARD LOOKS A JUNK YARD I have sooooo many cars to work on🙄
Pcv They’re lucky I have a 2.4 and they do not have a PCV valve this is why they have problems with rear main seals because there’s nowhere for the pressure to go
The PCV valve in a 2.0 liter LNF/LHU engine is INSIDE the intake manifold., sandwiched between the intake and the cylinder head. So, to see it you have already removed the intake manifold from the engine and the PCV valve from the intake manifold.
Wouldn't it have been easier to drop front frame with engine??
I don’t think so. But you could. To each his own.
Now I know why it costs me $3300 to have this done at the dealer !
Yeah, parts aren’t too much but the labor can rack up. Thanks for watching!
you sir got scammed for a experienced mechanic this is a piece of cake to do.
Is this a interference engine I cannot find definitive information anywhere
It is.
How did the car run before you fixed it?
It seemed to run fine. Only complaint was the check engine light.
@@automotiveinsight wow. I have a 2014 Buick regal turbo 2.0 - the car will fire up and run fine until it warms up and then it falls on its face! If you keep the car above 1k rpm it’ll drive. It has no power once it warms up and it seems like it’s all RPM’s and no go while blowing a little white smoke. I replaced the turbo and such but it didn’t fix the issue.
I’d check dtc’s first. But it sounds like it might be an air fuel ratio issue once the car gets into closed loop. I’d be checking fuel trims, O2 voltages, map voltages, etc.
@@automotiveinsight I’m not getting any codes at all. Before this issue started, I was getting an underboost code, I changed out the waste gate solenoid and I believe it has gone away since.
This does not show the LTG!
Parts list,kit???
We used a cloyes kit. I think it was CLOYES 94201SX. The updated guide rod was a Dorman product DORMAN 917954
So I am working on it now but the timing cover is a problem. I noticed when it got removed on your video that when pry bar was inserted and used quickly, the timing cover was already off mostly. I've used pry bars and it won't budge at all. Those service points you pointed out don't hold the edge of pry bar. Also there's no room for a large pry bar to get at them. I see where you are talking about. So how did you get it off?
Are you sure you have all the bolts out? There should be 11 in total.
@@automotiveinsight I do have all out and got it off finally. My service points were on very bottom of the cover on the sides at weird angles and could only use a 8" pry bar to get at them. But I got it off and should be smooth sailing from here. Will be replacing all parts in the am. Your video helped a lot and I can't thank you enough. Have a good evening and again...thank you!
2:05 😅big black guy😮😂
I heard that too.
I noticed there was oil in the turbo charge pipe which is a problem I also have with mine. Is that indicative of the bearings in the turbo going out since they're oil cooled?
Oil in the charge pipe is common for turbo charged vehicles. I usually check the turbo for excessive end play by grabbing the impeller and moving it up and down and in and out. On this same vehicle the turbo did fail about 3 months later
@@automotiveinsight did customer replace with new from gm? New aftermarket? Recycled? How did that go?