Is a Full Floor Pan the Best Decision? - 67 Mustang Part 30
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- Опубликовано: 15 сен 2024
- What’s the best approach for your Mustang’s rusty floor pan? I worked on evaluating if I go with a full floor pan or stay with the floor halves. There are pros and cons with both, the biggest con for me is I already have the halves and would need to buy a full floor. The pro is it’s a ton less work, and my butt welds aren’t fantastic!
I also cleaned up the floor welding area, and prepped for the new install. Also some additional discovery of some old damage and "repair" done in the past...always more to discover it seems.
Thanks for watching!
Great to see a guy working with what is there… nice job.
Thanks! I actually could have saved myself some time and money if I had fully dug in before deciding on a path for the floor. Lesson hopefully learned for later!
Hello 🤗 there Evan, Greetings from another member of the "Tetanus 💉 Discovery" brotherhood!!!
Yes, it does look like someone had changed those torque boxes before, and didn't use primer or rust prevention prior to reassembly... I found one had been replaced on my 65 FB, like yours. The flanges were flush to the inner rocker, though just bead welded on the flange edges.. I did like you, I drilled and Rossett welded both flanges. The original pass side torque box was worse than yours, the more I cleaned, the worse it got, till there was nothing 😭 left !!! So I got a new one, and also "discovered" some holes, in the inner rocker as well for good measure !!! I cleaned, then fixed some holes in my Transition panel also, I ultimately decided to internally seal it, and keep it as well. You are one patient son of a "B" !!! Keep at it brother !!!
Joe.L
Tetanus Club: I’m not just the president, I’m also a client!
Thanks for the words of encouragement! It’s certainly not for the faint hearted that’s for sure. I’ve got my eyes on a new transition pan and thoughts of how I’m going to section it in. Everything in the rear is in surprisingly okay shape, so if I can avoid cutting up the whole rear, that would be wonderful. But we will see once I start cutting into it…
Your welcome my friend, 🙏, I thought of sectioning my transition pan too, though, when I cut into mine, I realized, the heavy inner structure, would be very difficult to replicate if I tried..
Just me here, yours seems more comprised than mine. I I'd consider doing the transition pan as well... Buts that's why they're called opinions, cause everyone's got one !!!! I'll keep watching regardless brother, and someday, I'd love to run into each other at a show, with completed, running cars!!! God bless ...
We’ll see what it looks like once I get into it…so far every time I’ve said that, I ended up replacing everything 😂
Thanks for the encouragement, one step at a time it’ll come together!
Hey there, I saw another guy comment, about the inner rocker being replaced before, not the the torque boxes, and not to well perhaps... I think now he was right, and that's why they may not been able to get the Rear original torque box flanges "flush" together. Regardless of the route you choose, I know 'Get er done right'
Love watching...
@@evansmessygarage
Thanks! Actually got the transition pan off and the shock mount panel was in great shape.
Don’t know why your last response got filtered, but I was able to allow it.
Those sleeves inside the subframe at the spring mount look OEM to me. My 66 had shouldered bolts and nuts most likely so they engage said sleeve. I welded a .125" plate there as part of my subframe connector fabrication. Looks like a set of air shocks broke loose at some point. It would explain the cracks in the transition pan. Too much weight / stress being carried by the air shocks. You are being very thorough so I figure you will take care of everything. Nice work.
Yep, already eyeing the CJPP sale for a transition pan. Unless I find something surprising (you never know with this car!), I’ll probably just section in the front half. But first I’ll have to dig in and see the extent of the issues.
I have subframe connectors too that will need some minor fabrication to fit up snugly, but they should end up covering/reinforcing those holes…I’m still going to repair them though!
@@evansmessygarage - I looked under my 66 and OEM had a large washer (about 2” dia) on the inside and a shouldered nut ( triangle smooshed) on the outside. Couldn’t attach a pic.
Gotcha. I haven’t looked to see if my assembly manual has any details on it, but regardless I’ll add some reinforcement before buttoning everything up for sure
Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed, thanks for watching!
Jacking up a Mustang, I know I always do it right, but curious if you can jack up the car using the frame rails if you use a block of wood under the jack on both side concurrently ? I never use the frame rails to jack up my car to be clear.
If I want to get the whole front or rear up, I’m a fan of using a hockey puck on my floor Jack and using the rear differential or the cross-member under the engine. Might not be the most correct, but it works well. The puck works really well to prevent damage and is solid enough to take the weight. Just be sure the other end is chocked or otherwise secure so it doesn’t roll on you!
Yes, under the differential is correct exactly and you described. @@evansmessygarage
Another great video, can I ask what are your plans for this car? do you plan to keep it or sell? not that I could afford it, just curious.
I plan to keep it as a fun weekend/nice weather driver. The trick is that I not making it so nice that I never want to take it out!
Looking at prices now vs when I bought it ten years ago, I could probably do fairly well even in its current state, but I don’t have plans to sell
Smart to keep it, who knows what the price tag will look like in 5 or 10 years.@@evansmessygarage
How high do the RV Jack stands extend?
They go up to 17”, but I don’t think I’d trust them maxed out. Fully extended, the threads don’t go down into the top, so they’d be less stable. I’ve seen some folks add a bit to the other side, which seems like a decent idea