Great job and love the videos, just one wee thing, I noticed at around 4:24 when your screeding is that the thermalite block work has a crack, counting left from the bricks that tie into blocks, the third block along shows a crack and you can see it travel down, hope its not a big issue to sort, must be the expansion joint above moving. Great vids keep them coming.
Unfortunately aircrete blocks are notorious for cracks. Even with movement joints they tend to crack below the windows. It is all due to shrinkage. The blocks were wet when they were laid. I am going to use lightweight concrete medium density blocks on the next job.
Hi, please explain what the underfloor heating you used here is made of. This is a brilliant series, to watch even for retired folk who are thinking of putting in an extension. So thanks for showing the correct way to do things. Regards, JB.
can you tell me if it is wise to do underfloor heating without a reinforcing mesh under the pipes? what determines whether it is necessary to establish a network or not? Thanks
Hi Alfred Thanks for the comment and sorry for the delay. I was on holiday. I have never used that MB resin but I have used the equivalent from SetCrete. It is easy enough to put on and it works.
Question, dont you have liquid screed over in UK? Becuase that looks like very tough for your back and knees working like that. Here in Sweden we have Liquid Screed (Not sure that is the right term?) that you pour, and since its in liquid form, it flattens out by itself. And you dont need any scraping or such to make it flat. And you can walk on it 1-3hours after its poured.
I'm not a plumber nor a screeder in any ways, but I question how the pipes where placed in the bends,,, as can be seen in the right lower corner at 1:33 ,,, wouldn't the big gaps make for uneven heating?
To some extent you are right but the spacing is 150mm and the manufacturers recommend a minimum of 200mm on the bends so the best thing is to pull what they call a lightbulb end. The heat through the screed tends to even out but you can always find spots which are warmer and that is where the dog or cat lies.
Hi Lindy Those blocks crack like mad, I hate them. They were wet and they shrink when they dry. If the mortar is weak enough the crack runs up the mortar. It would have helped to have the movement joint on the inside but with dot and dab we tend to just let it do its thing.
@@SkillBuilder Good point, fair enough! I forgot they act like a sponge. Even when they come delivered on a pallet there is a lot of condensation within the plastic wrapping!
What is the minimum thickness of the floor celotex insulation boards under the pipes. I am planning a retrofit job where there is 5mm of insulation under 100mm of slab, not sure if i should re insulate or clip the pipes directly onto the slab, if i insulate what thickness do you recommend
Hi mate. Great video. I’m currently mid build and have a void between where you fit the door and the inner floor level. How do you overcome this when it comes to screeding the floor do you use cavity closers? Many Thanks
It’s to hard to get these types of screed I have asked at all the major builders merchants and unless you order a pallet load they won’t get it in for you ☹️
That is often the way I am afraid. All manufacturers would like their products stocked but it is becoming a real problem. The internet is the only way to buy small quantities.
You should have a dpm under the concrete but if not you can put a liquid one on the concrete and then a bonded screed. A bonded screed is better as it can be thinner
I hope you tested it After the underfloor heating loops have been Evenly laid out , the installation should be subjected to a pressure test at two times the working pressure, to meet the requirements set out in BS EN 1264-4[4]. This standard requires testing at a minimum pressure of 6 bar, however, underfloor heating suppliers recommend testing up to twice this pressure, maintained for 24 hours. and you should insulate the plastic pipes coming out of the concrete screen floor to the manifold
Yes we have made videos on the full underfloor heating job. The screed warms the water up as it is setting so the pressure rises on guage. You are also supposed to sleeve pipes between rooms
I would like to have an idea of the size of the space added (extension), how long to carry out the work, and what is the total cost of the work? As I am planning a similar extension in my house and it would be interesting to be able to compare it with a recently completed work like this. Does any one can help with that?
In the UK cost for a good build range around 1500 to 2000 quid per meter, that's used as a rough cost guide, timing is always difficult because you have so many different factors.
Mark I can't ever recall seeing the private parts of a plasterer, it is just not something that interests me, so I will take your word for it. To be serious for a moment there is nothing worse than people coming in and rushing a job and giving you problems that you have to sort out, either with loads of self leveller or by having to trim the bottoms of doors. It is even more annoying because I spent ages establishing the datum lines with a laser and they worked to their 6 fott level. If they then turn out to be aggresive or even ill mannered when I pick them up on it then I start wondering what I was paying them for. A few days in charm school would not be wasted on some subbies.
HahahahhahahhahahhzahHha This made my week SOO funny The subtitles it's like monty python "HELLO I'M WANNA PISS BEE" HAHAHAH I'M LEAVIN WERK EARLY TO PUT ON THE LIFE OF BWAIAN!!!! GAS
Is there any point putting electric underfloor heating over a non-insulated concrete slab c1964? I know it comes with some insulation, but I feel that the slab would soak up too much heat and let it go to waste.
Skill Builder really thanks for advice, it seemed common sense not to install, but ya never know....in your experience are hydronic plinth heaters another false investment?
I’m sorry but you’re talking out of your arse when you say you can’t use a conventional mixer to mix screed. I’ve been screening for 40 years and I’ve never used anything else.
Of course you can mix screed in a normal mixer dont know what the benefits are of the one Rodger is using as I have not used one. We get our floor screed delivered by a company semi dri tipped with fibre cant beat it to much messing round mixing it
It would have cost around £1,200 for the gypsum based flow screed. This was 4 bulk bags of grit £160.00 and 15 bags of A29 £ 230.00 plus mixer hire £100 plus labourer £100. I work for nothing so it is roughly half the price.
'Self levelling' is marketing speak, it has some self smoothing properties but it still needs skill to get it level. Dump a load in the middle of the room and it will not flow far of it's own accord, it is not like water. A 10mm fall across a 5 meter floor is not unheard of.
how many inches of screed was that on top of the underfloor heating, i have had 3-4inches put on top of my underfloorheating and it doesnt warm up the floor, what i rekon it could be
It isn't the best but considering that Karndean recommend a self leveller, even over a flow screed, it makes me ask what the point is of getting it pan flat
In fairness it isn't the best but it is a strong as hell and better than some of the stuff I have paid plasterers to do. Putting the laser around afterwards there was not a lot to make up. The existing room dropped here and there and they were laying Karndean so the whole floor had a coat of self leveller which took out any dips. I have now found a really good screeder.
At worst the tiler could always chuck down a couple of bags of self level, in a small extension you can't go too far wrong though I'd be sacked if I left a floor looking like that! As for plasterers being bad at screeding: it's because they are plasterers, I'm an experienced screeder but don't ask me to skim a wall, they both involve trowels but are different skills.
to be fair it looks a decent job and could be tiled on easy enough. as a chippy and wet plumber I have to say I don't think its that bad a job, as roger says ive seen some shocking jobs from flooring specialists. That said ive a plaster friend and his work second to none including screeding so I accept theres an art. I think as long as you set your guidetraps level and have your plank must diy peeps could have a fair shot at this which is why I like this channel.
Yes I know I worked far too hard on that floor but the end result is fine and having had 'so called' screeder lay a floor so badly that we ended up having to trim the bottoms off doors I am happy to keep it under my control.
I'm not a tradey but competent at all things. Addicted to your videos. 9 episodes today!
Ease up my friend there are 400 videos on the channel. I would say that 5 a day like fruit and veg is a safe limit.
love watching these vid's,as a Carpenter I thought I knew a lot,but no,shame no builders good as you lot in Reading,Berks very hard to find.
The channel that keeps on giving. Thank you.
Finding this really helpful! Thank you !I’m a plumber starting a self build !
Great video Roger, Thankyou it’s great to get the confidence to tackle these jobs 👍
well this is the first time iv ever been shocked to watch a screed video the mix looks like builders sand
Great job and love the videos, just one wee thing, I noticed at around 4:24 when your screeding is that the thermalite block work has a crack, counting left from the bricks that tie into blocks, the third block along shows a crack and you can see it travel down, hope its not a big issue to sort, must be the expansion joint above moving. Great vids keep them coming.
Unfortunately aircrete blocks are notorious for cracks. Even with movement joints they tend to crack below the windows. It is all due to shrinkage. The blocks were wet when they were laid. I am going to use lightweight concrete medium density blocks on the next job.
All good stuff to watch...it's great to see professional tradesmen at work, with a commentary and explanations...great.
Cracking series Rodger, many thanks to yourself and the lads. New subscriber here mate.
It's nice to see a tradesman
😊👍
I've a couple of floors to screed, and this ''rounded off the corners'' a bit.
Thanks.
.
You sir are a proper craftsman. Subscribed.
Lots of good info for my upcoming extension. Cheers!
Excellent video but very hard work. Not for the faint hearted!
Great video as always Roger! I would love to see a video of you laying the underfloor heating pipes too (can't seem to find it on this channel)
Another pro job
I like this video...very good work
Hi, please explain what the underfloor heating you used here is made of. This is a brilliant series, to watch even for retired folk who are thinking of putting in an extension. So thanks for showing the correct way to do things. Regards, JB.
Thank you sir hats off good v log
can you tell me if it is wise to do underfloor heating without a reinforcing mesh under the pipes? what determines whether it is necessary to establish a network or not? Thanks
Roger, did you use ditra or dural matting beneath the tile?
Great video roger how much drying time do you need until you can turn on underfloor heating pipes
i love your videos, great job mate, please tell me have you ever used Sika MB resin on a floor?
Hi Alfred
Thanks for the comment and sorry for the delay. I was on holiday. I have never used that MB resin but I have used the equivalent from SetCrete. It is easy enough to put on and it works.
Does anyone lay this dry screed minus this mixer, by using a normal mixer
Question, dont you have liquid screed over in UK?
Becuase that looks like very tough for your back and knees working like that.
Here in Sweden we have Liquid Screed (Not sure that is the right term?) that you pour, and since its in liquid form, it flattens out by itself. And you dont need any scraping or such to make it flat.
And you can walk on it 1-3hours after its poured.
TouchOfRed7 yh we do it's just tradesman here are used to traditional screed
We need more videos per week come on lol
I'm not a plumber nor a screeder in any ways, but I question how the pipes where placed in the bends,,, as can be seen in the right lower corner at 1:33 ,,, wouldn't the big gaps make for uneven heating?
To some extent you are right but the spacing is 150mm and the manufacturers recommend a minimum of 200mm on the bends so the best thing is to pull what they call a lightbulb end. The heat through the screed tends to even out but you can always find spots which are warmer and that is where the dog or cat lies.
At 4:30 i can see a vertical crack in the new internal block work. Is this because there was no movement joint between the brick pier and block work?
Hi Lindy
Those blocks crack like mad, I hate them. They were wet and they shrink when they dry. If the mortar is weak enough the crack runs up the mortar. It would have helped to have the movement joint on the inside but with dot and dab we tend to just let it do its thing.
@@SkillBuilder Good point, fair enough! I forgot they act like a sponge. Even when they come delivered on a pallet there is a lot of condensation within the plastic wrapping!
What is the minimum thickness of the floor celotex insulation boards under the pipes. I am planning a retrofit job where there is 5mm of insulation under 100mm of slab, not sure if i should re insulate or clip the pipes directly onto the slab, if i insulate what thickness do you recommend
Hi mate. Great video. I’m currently mid build and have a void between where you fit the door and the inner floor level. How do you overcome this when it comes to screeding the floor do you use cavity closers? Many Thanks
Sorry I missed this and you have done it now. You can use cavity closers or slate. You might even foam it.
nooice
It’s to hard to get these types of screed I have asked at all the major builders merchants and unless you order a pallet load they won’t get it in for you ☹️
That is often the way I am afraid. All manufacturers would like their products stocked but it is becoming a real problem. The internet is the only way to buy small quantities.
Serious question. Are you sponsored by ardex?
If Im doing that on concrete slab should I put DPM under it? Or just straight on concrete
Thank
You
You should have a dpm under the concrete but if not you can put a liquid one on the concrete and then a bonded screed. A bonded screed is better as it can be thinner
@@SkillBuilder thank you
I hope you tested it After the underfloor heating loops have been Evenly laid out , the
installation should be subjected to a pressure test at two times
the working pressure, to meet the requirements set out in
BS EN 1264-4[4]. This standard requires testing at a minimum
pressure of 6 bar, however, underfloor heating suppliers
recommend testing up to twice this pressure, maintained for
24 hours. and you should insulate the plastic pipes coming out of the concrete screen floor to the manifold
Yes we have made videos on the full underfloor heating job. The screed warms the water up as it is setting so the pressure rises on guage. You are also supposed to sleeve pipes between rooms
I would like to have an idea of the size of the space added (extension), how long to carry out the work, and what is the total cost of the work?
As I am planning a similar extension in my house and it would be interesting to be able to compare it with a recently completed work like this. Does any one can help with that?
In the UK cost for a good build range around 1500 to 2000 quid per meter, that's used as a rough cost guide, timing is always difficult because you have so many different factors.
What should be the normal height when u leveling a surface 2cm or 3 cm?
roger you do seem to have a low opinion of plasterers,is it because we are very well endowed.??
Mark
I can't ever recall seeing the private parts of a plasterer, it is just not something that interests me, so I will take your word for it. To be serious for a moment there is nothing worse than people coming in and rushing a job and giving you problems that you have to sort out, either with loads of self leveller or by having to trim the bottoms of doors. It is even more annoying because I spent ages establishing the datum lines with a laser and they worked to their 6 fott level. If they then turn out to be aggresive or even ill mannered when I pick them up on it then I start wondering what I was paying them for.
A few days in charm school would not be wasted on some subbies.
@@SkillBuilder make you right.plasterers nd scaffolders both a bit arrogant.werent citicising you i got plenty of respect for you.cheers mate.
Not bad for a plumber but leave it to the screeders
Fair comment. Now I have found some good screeders I will do that but some of the plasterers I have used have been rubbish at screeds.
Hey Josh 😷
Great videos man 👍 hope the UK doing OK 🇮🇪
im a screeder , I dont do Plumbing cos im a screeder , i Could have done that job Half the cost twice as quick better Quality x 2 ,Im a Screeder
HahahahhahahhahahhzahHha
This made my week
SOO funny
The subtitles it's like monty python
"HELLO I'M WANNA PISS BEE"
HAHAHAH I'M LEAVIN WERK EARLY TO PUT ON THE LIFE OF BWAIAN!!!!
GAS
Is there any point putting electric underfloor heating over a non-insulated concrete slab c1964? I know it comes with some insulation, but I feel that the slab would soak up too much heat and let it go to waste.
Don't do it. I see loads of people who have been sold such systems and with no insulation it will eat electricity and do hardly anything
Skill Builder really thanks for advice, it seemed common sense not to install, but ya never know....in your experience are hydronic plinth heaters another false investment?
We have a video on plinth heaters. They are great. You get a rapid warm up.
Was this screed over the beam & block floor?
Yes, insulation first then the screed
Hi bud did u have to,put a concrete sub base down first underneath the insulation
rock&roll45 in the earlier extension videos they showed a block ad beam floor. They may have made a slurry to lock the balks together tho.
It is a beam and block floor. Have a look at the earlier videos on our channel and you will see it go down
Skill Builder cheers bud
I’m sorry but you’re talking out of your arse when you say you can’t use a conventional mixer to mix screed. I’ve been screening for 40 years and I’ve never used anything else.
Of course you can mix screed in a normal mixer dont know what the benefits are of the one Rodger is using as I have not used one. We get our floor screed delivered by a company semi dri tipped with fibre cant beat it to much messing round mixing it
That’s one thick screed bed on the UFH. Did the UFH work ok?
It is supposed to be 65mm and it heats up in no time. This is not ordinary screed.
Skill Builder loving your videos. Keep them coming
Skill Builder although can’t find the completed extension videos?
I wonder how the job prices up against a self levelling flow screed. Any ideas?
Very expensive
But if you factor in the time involved, and the end result, is it worth the extra expense?
goodcat1982 that is a very long cure time. How long before you can walk/ tile on it?
It would have cost around £1,200 for the gypsum based flow screed. This was 4 bulk bags of grit £160.00 and 15 bags of A29 £ 230.00 plus mixer hire £100 plus labourer £100. I work for nothing so it is roughly half the price.
'Self levelling' is marketing speak, it has some self smoothing properties but it still needs skill to get it level. Dump a load in the middle of the room and it will not flow far of it's own accord, it is not like water. A 10mm fall across a 5 meter floor is not unheard of.
do you put much water with that or is the sand wet enough
Hardly any water. The sand was wet from the bag so it was almost no water in the mix
thanks
CONGRATULATIONS TOP YOUR CHANNEL Marcos Mestre BRAZIL SUCCESSION WE ARE ALWAYS GLORIFYING RUclips ''
how many inches of screed was that on top of the underfloor heating, i have had 3-4inches put on top of my underfloorheating and it doesnt warm up the floor, what i rekon it could be
How much insulation have you got under the pipes. 3 inches is a normal thickness
I'd rather pay for the less effort
im glad im not tiling the floor the screed is as rough as a bears arce
Yeah because tile adhesive would never fill a few MM deep holes would it!
Most builders would turn in their grave paying that much for screed
Stick to spanners! That is shocking
It isn't the best but considering that Karndean recommend a self leveller, even over a flow screed, it makes me ask what the point is of getting it pan flat
Hollows under the rule.and float visible too the eye 🤣🤣🤣🤣
It needed self leveller for Karndean but a lot of floor layers do that even on a pan flat sand and cement screed.
Verry bad
Sorry to say but your screeding is horrible. I can see on your ruler it ain't flat. The plumbing looks great and the video too tough
In fairness it isn't the best but it is a strong as hell and better than some of the stuff I have paid plasterers to do. Putting the laser around afterwards there was not a lot to make up. The existing room dropped here and there and they were laying Karndean so the whole floor had a coat of self leveller which took out any dips.
I have now found a really good screeder.
At worst the tiler could always chuck down a couple of bags of self level, in a small extension you can't go too far wrong though I'd be sacked if I left a floor looking like that! As for plasterers being bad at screeding: it's because they are plasterers, I'm an experienced screeder but don't ask me to skim a wall, they both involve trowels but are different skills.
roger , please dont try to screed lol but not bad for a plumber
to be fair it looks a decent job and could be tiled on easy enough. as a chippy and wet plumber I have to say I don't think its that bad a job, as roger says ive seen some shocking jobs from flooring specialists. That said ive a plaster friend and his work second to none including screeding so I accept theres an art. I think as long as you set your guidetraps level and have your plank must diy peeps could have a fair shot at this which is why I like this channel.
I've had far, far worse done by supposed experts.
The last one was so bad i didn't pay, but am living with a floor like the Himalayas.
What a load of bollox lol
Feel sorry for the customer
don't give up the day job!
paul allen - yawn!
considering the entire channel is about his day job, that strikes me as quite obvious.
Yes I know I worked far too hard on that floor but the end result is fine and having had 'so called' screeder lay a floor so badly that we ended up having to trim the bottoms off doors I am happy to keep it under my control.
Feel free to give up yours paul. There are more than enough wankers already.
ICECREAMK1NG1 tosser