Harry, what a nice refresher course for me. A few things : I know of no Glaziers who would use the oil filled cutter. Most have a tiny oil soaked sponge sitting right beside were they are cutting, and will dip the cutter tip in right before a cut, then wipe off excess. Also I was pretty surprised seeing you cut side to side. I( have never seen that done before!) I remember asking my glass boss about that, and he said that there is always more control pulling a cut towards you, and you also have the undeniable benefit of seeing exactly were your cut is. When I was doing this, work, I would get the broken glass out as intact as possible, and use that as a template to cut the glass instead of doing it on top of the piece. You risk breaking the super thin glass doing it the way you did. My boss would have shook his head and said 'Fail!" to that. One last that may make things easier for you. We all know how slippery a ruler can be when laid on glass. It is SUPER easy to start to pull a cut toward you, and the slight sideways pressure you are putting on the rulers edge will make the ruler move, ruining the cut. My Boss's trick is to cut up a bike tire inner tube , and glue a full length piece along the non measuring edge, but only going half way across. So if ruler is 1 1/2 inches width, cut a 3/4 inch strip of rubber and glue it on. Your ruler will never slip again. Your plan of reinforcing it with full size lites of glass is an amazingly good idea! THANKS for this my friend!
Harry. I restore windows also. I remove ALL the old lead, clean the glass and rebuild with new lead. This increases the life of the window by another 75-80 years. SO much easier than trying to save the old lead parts. Just a suggestion. Nice work.
I agree. If it is a super historic piece where the lead itself is a part of the art and craftmanship itself I can understand. But for 99% of pieces the history of the lead isnt worth risking the glass itself.
Wow this is amazing. I own a church and my stain glass needs a bit of restorations...i was gonna do it myself but this looks like alot of work and patience.
I have been looking a while to find detailed repair advice that was not entirely dismantle-and-replace. I appreciate this less destructive approach. Thank you, Mr. Rogers!
I applaud your patience and dedication to completing this work. Early into the video you make a comment about how people may not agree with your techniques. I've trained and worked as a professional stained glass glazer for almost 40 years. There are a number of techniques that would make this project much easier, but they require a lot of time and experience to master. Completely re-leading the window would have been the best approach, but if you are not trained in that then I get it. I'm sure you learned a lot of thing as you did this. Appreciate that you took the time to document this project, and wish you the best of luck.
Thanks Dan..it certainly struck me that there is a lot to learn to get this right and mine was a poor attempt by professional standards. Still it's lovely to have rescued these windows and I love having them in my workshop cheering up the world. You have a lovely craft and it must bring much happiness to people....we should all have more stained glass!
You had a method of fitting I hadn't thought of. Good job. I do mostly copper foil for strength and for easier fixes. Now I know how to get an interior piece in on leaded came. Thanks!
Hello. I don't know if you still read these comments but please accept my thanks if you do. I was given a piece of stained glass similar to yours in the video, with similar damage around the edges. I did not have a clue how to repair it until I saw this video. What a fantastic tutorial, really very many thanks for doing this.
Thank you very much for taking the time to make this video. It has helped me a great deal. I want to replace two small glass panels in my front door. which are broken and have a lead surround. You have given me confidence to replace them myself. I am quite excited to start the project. Many thanks from West Sussex.
that is the most wonderful glass windows I think I have seen so far. Just beautiful. it made me cry out when you said they would have been thrown out. I would pay Big money to keep these alive If I had them in my house. Love your work.
Thanks Harry--I will try to use your techniques on my 150 year old church stained glass window that recently had several panes broken. Very good detailed explanation.
Always loved stained glass. Here in downtown NYC, you often see really old brownstones which are in the process of being 're-done'. And unless the contractors are absolute artisans, they just chuck everything - damaged glass included, which breaks my heart. I am fasciated by this repair, and four years in, am just now viewing it. Better late than never, eh?? Cheers!!
It might help soften the lead and putty mix, but the glass is so fragile I think there would be a high risk of it cracking under the heat. Thanks for your comment. Harry
How very beautiful! And I loved hearing you talk us through it. A bit fiddly :) Such fun. If I had been doing this, I would have probably completely disassembled the windows and reconstructed them using all new lead. Which would have been complete over-kill based on what you have shown us in this video. Thank you for your instruction.
Harry, I watched your video as I was doing my stained glass. I heard you say the the solder you were using is plumbers solder. Plumbers solder is 40/60. The proper solder to use on glass is 60/40. It might make a difference in your windows. They are beautiful windows and I wish you all the luck with the restorations.
Thats interesting Martina - I guess its best to use the correct one - perhaps its a little harder than plumbers solder that has quite a bit of give....I will look into this next time I am doing some - thanks for your comment.
Harry great Job with limited tools, first I noticed your iron was very dirty. If you use flux dip your tip into flux and it will clean it also if it a very old one you should reshape the point. Today they use tin and lead in solder flows much better. 50/50 or 60/40. Plumber solder has a higher melting point. So I would switch to a 60/40. and the old lead cane is difficult to repair due to imbedded dirt over a lifetime. One comment recommends a new iron you can, but I would try cleaning your old iron, repointing as I said earlier, and see if anyone has a piece called a tinner dam it was used to clean old irons. If you just want to fix them as you currently do because of the blending of material and age. The window is in a very unstable state. Please make a pattern on stiff paper and disassemble the window draw an outer line to represent the length and width you are working with, also when you disassemble the window it allows you to make matching pieces from those that have not been broken. My last point is where you buy your replacement glass can help with the cane, this must be stretch to make it tight for glass. I have not done caned window repairs but I have done quite a few Tiffany style works, working on a lamp, done horses, Butterfly. I do not know what everybody commented on but hope this makes it more enjoyable for you. Bill Hagerty the USA
Rub the soldering iron tip on a sanding block until you get down to bare copper. Dip the tip in flux and when it comes up to heat, put some solder on it to protect it from oxidation. You can periodically, while soldering, wipe the tip on a slightly dampened sponge to clean it.
Great video! Impressed you didn't use a glass grinder and only used your very loved nippers. Hope to see more glass repairs. Shelley in Galveston, Texas
Yes its a slightly larger wave pattern - this was the closest match available - its also slightly wider but it does not notice in the wooden frame that I have made - film to follow! Regards Harry
I have a 28 foot long stained glass storefront sign that says Owl Drug Store in big red letters. The 6ft. runners on the end of the awning say DRUGS in red letters. An old painter had it in his warehouse and I got it from him. The 6ft. Drug signs are in our home, one hanging in a window the other in a lighted shadow box. These windows you have are beautiful. Nice job on the restoration.
My experience with repairing a old glass piece,is basic to make a pattern of what you have,and just start over,using old unbroken glass,and new glass...and using new lead came...much easier...but great instructional video.
I have just purchased a home built in the 1920s here in the south of the US. The entry door has a huge stain glass panel. It needs to be repaired. I did a quick search and up pops Harry doing this. I thought yes I should have known Harry has already covered this type of work.
very informative and entertaining! thank you! Just making sure that you are doing the came bending on the WRONG side of the project, otherwise the bends in the came are very noticeable.
Thank you Harry - very nice. A bit scary breaking out that last green piece. Perhaps scoring it a few times "criss-cross" and tapping from underneath, will reduce the risk of damaging the adjacent pieces. Grozing pliers work well, but much better with the flat portion at the top, curved portion underneath. A lot of hard work which will extend the life of the panels - perhaps also use solder with no tin content, as the tin will eventually corrode, but probably not too much of an issue in the UK climate. Very informative - thanks.
Really enjoyed, very informative & made me think of some projects. The next stage of fitting a backing glass will hopefully cover how to clean internal glazing sections between leaded glass & armoured glass. Plus I would like to see how the window frame is profiled & assembled.
Hi Harry Thanks for posting this video. I was wondering if you could please give us some advice. Our home is an old detached Victorian house with three beautiful stained glass windows on the inside part of the porch, much like the one you have except in great condition ;) However, we feel the colours look extremely dull now, and we want to have the whole windows repainted. If we were to do this, is there a way we could remove the paint from the stained glass and then paint afresh? Thanks, any help would be appreciated :)
Hi Yousuf...sometimes some polish such as silver metal polish gets all the grime and tarnish off and makes the glass bright again...that might be worth trying on a discrete corner as a tester....sorry but beyond that I don't really know...perhaps someone here can help further. Best regards Harry
Yousuf Munshi you cannot remove true painted work from stained glass hence the term Stained glass. the colour is fired in a kiln and becomes part of the glass. It however can be burnished off using a dremel. this will ofcourse leave the surface badly scratched and very ugly in appearance. then i guess a stained glass artisan could repaint. But this would be a very pointless project as it would be easier and less costly to just get new windows made. Go to an expert in your area for advice.
I am interested in building a frame for an old stained glass window and you mentioned a video you did that explains how to make such a frame and mentioned specific ways to line the window before putting it into the frame. Is this still on RUclips? If so can you give me the link. Thank you. I watched this video several times and I think I can do this. Patience seems to be one key ingredient to success.
Hi it was on making window frames, about the same time as this video. I used draught insulation strip to cushion the lead windows behind tempered glass and its stood the test of time.
Harry, thank you for taking the time to create the video. I would like to know how to attach the lead. I just purchased a large piece that needs to be repaired. Thanks.
Hi Harry, Love the video. Could you possibly advise me on a lead glass window that looks like it's about to implode? I'm busy painting some 2nd story windows for a customer, they are leaded with a small diamond pattern (4X2). One window which is hinged is about 12" x 16" and the middle is bowed in about 2". Can I just lie it on a flat surface and push it back level? I'd appreciate some advice from yourself or any other with experience. Thanks.
screeminjesus I'm guessing and hopefully someone else can advise...I suspect you could coax it down gently by gently pressing ....but the glass may crack and the lead will have stretched and the grout will be displaced...so you may get away with it but I'm not sure you will.
thank you. i have a window that was placed in the ceiling. gravity has caused it to bow and some of the pieces of glass have fallen out. my goal is to repair it and return it to the window opening it came out of. i missed how you used the leaded cement. i guess for that you just follow the directions on the container? very informative video and just right for my needs. thanks again.
Harry ,nice try ! I have been restoring leaded glass for 30 years ,some things which you admit that your not skilled are a bit misleading, try using and oyster knife to lift the lead came.Great and clear presentation
I've never done anything with stained glass but i was wondering if you were to use a heat gun if that would help with moving the lead back or not Great video enjoyed it very much
Any thoughts on what to do with lots of small panes of church glass some kid shot with a bb or pellet gun? I thought about just a dab of silicone, or just replace them. Thanks.
ltcajh I guess the silicone is a reversible repair that would stabilise it all....perhaps a sheet of toughened glass or a machine gun in front might help....sorry just joking...I have not really got a ready answer for that...hopefully someone here will.
Maybe the little buggers will leave the place alone now that it has an owner who is working on it. I suspect hail in the past 105 years has contributed to the breakages some. There's stained glass all over the place, and it needs TLC. I'm hoping the one bowed out area can be pressed back into place with a section of plywood. If not, well, looks like a lot of work to reproduce the lead. That's my wife's lane.
I have leaded a bay window in front of my home. It has a leaded glass window. It’s also bowed. I had a Glazier tell me it was bowed out because of exposure to the Texas heat on the outside and the Air Conditioning on the inside? Could be just the sunshine and the shade? It’s only about 35 years old. I hate to waste all of the time, resources and money that was spent on the glass and would love to re-lead and sandwich them with glass. I like the machine gun idea, Harry! That’s probably the Texas gal, in me. 😬
Fascinating craft work, William Morris would be proud! Does anyone know where I can buy some replacement glass for my Victorian window near London I live in Waltham Abbey, please? I'd like to use the techniques so well demo'd here to restore my front door.
At first i thought it was like one of the old tacky blackpool pens you used to be able to buy i kept looking to see if the lady would drop her dress...nice thanks.
Nice video I am restoring a window from my Parents home. Just replacing bad lead, but I am interested in the sandwiching of the glass because the window was very compromised after removing the frame it was in, I will replace the frame . are the .
Anita - you seemed to run out of words .....the frame I put it in had foam and p strip around it .... there is a film of me making the frames on my channel if that helps....its worth bedding the lead to frame with foam or mastic as it cushions dorr and window shutting and gives a good seal.
Hi good point...my understanding is that it's ok to touch solid lead, but not chemicals that contain lead as it's absorbed into the body by ingestion and inhalation ....but I guess to be safe gloves and a mask are not a bad idea. Thanks
@@harryrogers I really enjoyed your presentation, Harry. I have a multi paned front door with matching multi-paned sides. It's an Edwardian home but the gently undulating glass, may or may not be from that era. I was hoping to do a minimal arts and crafts version of lead lighting with beveled glass pieces and a dot of colour here and there. I don't know whether I will have the confidence to do it or even how to measure the replacement panels up so that the new inserts fit. I have a long road of learning ahead of me, I guess. Keep up the great work!
Hello and thanks for that suggestion...I am not planning on doing more but that would have been a great tool! My ancestors were from the Portsmouth area around 1750.
Harry, what a nice refresher course for me. A few things : I know of no Glaziers who would use the oil filled cutter. Most have a tiny oil soaked sponge sitting right beside were they are cutting, and will dip the cutter tip in right before a cut, then wipe off excess. Also I was pretty surprised seeing you cut side to side. I( have never seen that done before!) I remember asking my glass boss about that, and he said that there is always more control pulling a cut towards you, and you also have the undeniable benefit of seeing exactly were your cut is. When I was doing this, work, I would get the broken glass out as intact as possible, and use that as a template to cut the glass instead of doing it on top of the piece. You risk breaking the super thin glass doing it the way you did. My boss would have shook his head and said 'Fail!" to that. One last that may make things easier for you. We all know how slippery a ruler can be when laid on glass. It is SUPER easy to start to pull a cut toward you, and the slight sideways pressure you are putting on the rulers edge will make the ruler move, ruining the cut. My Boss's trick is to cut up a bike tire inner tube , and glue a full length piece along the non measuring edge, but only going half way across. So if ruler is 1 1/2 inches width, cut a 3/4 inch strip of rubber and glue it on. Your ruler will never slip again. Your plan of reinforcing it with full size lites of glass is an amazingly good idea! THANKS for this my friend!
Harry. I restore windows also. I remove ALL the old lead, clean the glass and rebuild with new lead. This increases the life of the window by another 75-80 years. SO much easier than trying to save the old lead parts. Just a suggestion. Nice work.
I agree. If it is a super historic piece where the lead itself is a part of the art and craftmanship itself I can understand. But for 99% of pieces the history of the lead isnt worth risking the glass itself.
Thanks Glenn
Wow this is amazing. I own a church and my stain glass needs a bit of restorations...i was gonna do it myself but this looks like alot of work and patience.
I have been looking a while to find detailed repair advice that was not entirely dismantle-and-replace. I appreciate this less destructive approach. Thank you, Mr. Rogers!
I applaud your patience and dedication to completing this work. Early into the video you make a comment about how people may not agree with your techniques. I've trained and worked as a professional stained glass glazer for almost 40 years. There are a number of techniques that would make this project much easier, but they require a lot of time and experience to master. Completely re-leading the window would have been the best approach, but if you are not trained in that then I get it. I'm sure you learned a lot of thing as you did this. Appreciate that you took the time to document this project, and wish you the best of luck.
Thanks Dan..it certainly struck me that there is a lot to learn to get this right and mine was a poor attempt by professional standards. Still it's lovely to have rescued these windows and I love having them in my workshop cheering up the world. You have a lovely craft and it must bring much happiness to people....we should all have more stained glass!
Quite nice showing a beautiful repair. Thank you for rescuing those gorgeous windows!! Truly informative video.
thank you I have 2 large stain glass doors to repair this video helped. I have never done this before. I am from Mesa AZ
You had a method of fitting I hadn't thought of. Good job. I do mostly copper foil for strength and for easier fixes. Now I know how to get an interior piece in on leaded came. Thanks!
Hello. I don't know if you still read these comments but please accept my thanks if you do. I was given a piece of stained glass similar to yours in the video, with similar damage around the edges. I did not have a clue how to repair it until I saw this video. What a fantastic tutorial, really very many thanks for doing this.
Thanks
Thank you very much for taking the time to make this video. It has helped me a great deal. I want to replace two small glass panels in my front door. which are broken and have a lead surround. You have given me confidence to replace them myself. I am quite excited to start the project. Many thanks from West Sussex.
that is the most wonderful glass windows I think I have seen so far. Just beautiful. it made me cry out when you said they would have been thrown out. I would pay Big money to keep these alive If I had them in my house. Love your work.
Thanks very much.
Did you film the next bit of the process because I would like to do that to my stained glass too.
@@bmogs1720 yes I did a video on making window frames in the woodwork playing I think.
@@harryrogers thank you I'll look for it.
Wow, Harry, that's amazing! Beautiful job, so glad I stumbled across your page! Thanks for sharing. Friend from sunny Florida, USA
Thanks Harry--I will try to use your techniques on my 150 year old church stained glass window that recently had several panes broken. Very good detailed explanation.
Good luck with that Brian.
Thank you for taking the time to show how you repair a lead light window. Much appreciated!
+Miriam .Varga Thats great thanks Miriam
Excellent demonstration. Thank you.
Always loved stained glass. Here in downtown NYC, you often see really old brownstones which are in the process of being 're-done'. And unless the contractors are absolute artisans, they just chuck everything - damaged glass included, which breaks my heart. I am fasciated by this repair, and four years in, am just now viewing it. Better late than never, eh?? Cheers!!
Cynthia Hawkins yes this was destined for a skip but is now being enjoyed by me in my leather workshop!
It might help soften the lead and putty mix, but the glass is so fragile I think there would be a high risk of it cracking under the heat. Thanks for your comment. Harry
Absolutely beautiful windows.
an electric soldering iron would be a good investment harry. glad to see the rescue of these pieces of art, good on you!
How very beautiful! And I loved hearing you talk us through it. A bit fiddly :) Such fun. If I had been doing this, I would have probably completely disassembled the windows and reconstructed them using all new lead. Which would have been complete over-kill based on what you have shown us in this video. Thank you for your instruction.
Deirdre McAdams Thanks...I think some professionals might say do a complete releading!!
It was just great. Very well done. You've given me some confidence to replace several broken panes in our library windows.
frank waskowicz Thats great Frank....and i have put up a further one here
ruclips.net/video/FXlxSzTQ544/видео.html
Harry, I watched your video as I was doing my stained glass. I heard you say the the solder you were using is plumbers solder. Plumbers solder is 40/60. The proper solder to use on glass is 60/40. It might make a difference in your windows. They are beautiful windows and I wish you all the luck with the restorations.
Thats interesting Martina - I guess its best to use the correct one - perhaps its a little harder than plumbers solder that has quite a bit of give....I will look into this next time I am doing some - thanks for your comment.
Harry great Job with limited tools, first I noticed your iron was very dirty. If you use flux dip your tip into flux and it will clean it also if it a very old one you should reshape the point. Today they use tin and lead in solder flows much better. 50/50 or 60/40. Plumber solder has a higher melting point. So I would switch to a 60/40. and the old lead cane is difficult to repair due to imbedded dirt over a lifetime. One comment recommends a new iron you can, but I would try cleaning your old iron, repointing as I said earlier, and see if anyone has a piece called a tinner dam it was used to clean old irons. If you just want to fix them as you currently do because of the blending of material and age. The window is in a very unstable state. Please make a pattern on stiff paper and disassemble the window draw an outer line to represent the length and width you are working with, also when you disassemble the window it allows you to make matching pieces from those that have not been broken. My last point is where you buy your replacement glass can help with the cane, this must be stretch to make it tight for glass. I have not done caned window repairs but I have done quite a few Tiffany style works, working on a lamp, done horses, Butterfly. I do not know what everybody commented on but hope this makes it more enjoyable for you. Bill Hagerty the USA
Rub the soldering iron tip on a sanding block until you get down to bare copper. Dip the tip in flux and when it comes up to heat, put some solder on it to protect it from oxidation.
You can periodically, while soldering, wipe the tip on a slightly dampened sponge to clean it.
Great video! Impressed you didn't use a glass grinder and only used your very loved nippers. Hope to see more glass repairs. Shelley in Galveston, Texas
Thanks Shelley - there is one other glass film, but that will be it for a while on the glass front as the forge and leather workshop are calling!
Yes its a slightly larger wave pattern - this was the closest match available - its also slightly wider but it does not notice in the wooden frame that I have made - film to follow! Regards Harry
Thank you Harry. Job well done!
I have a 28 foot long stained glass storefront sign that says Owl Drug Store in big red letters. The 6ft. runners on the end of the awning say DRUGS in red letters. An old painter had it in his warehouse and I got it from him. The 6ft. Drug signs are in our home, one hanging in a window the other in a lighted shadow box. These windows you have are beautiful. Nice job on the restoration.
That sounds rather good!
My experience with repairing a old glass piece,is basic to make a pattern of what you have,and just start over,using old unbroken glass,and new glass...and using new lead came...much easier...but great instructional video.
I have just purchased a home built in the 1920s here in the south of the US. The entry door has a huge stain glass panel. It needs to be repaired. I did a quick search and up pops Harry doing this. I thought yes I should have known Harry has already covered this type of work.
Haha ...sounds like a nice panel. I hope you are very happy in your new home.
very informative and entertaining! thank you! Just making sure that you are doing the came bending on the WRONG side of the project, otherwise the bends in the came are very noticeable.
Thank you Harry - very nice. A bit scary breaking out that last green piece. Perhaps scoring it a few times "criss-cross" and tapping from underneath, will reduce the risk of damaging the adjacent pieces. Grozing pliers work well, but much better with the flat portion at the top, curved portion underneath. A lot of hard work which will extend the life of the panels - perhaps also use solder with no tin content, as the tin will eventually corrode, but probably not too much of an issue in the UK climate. Very informative - thanks.
+John Francis Thanks for the tips John - thats great.
Thank you Harry ! This has been very helpful.
Thanks for sharing your talent! KANSAS USA
Wonderful job at restoring!!!
Most excellent! I wish I had bought more examples while station there in the UK.
Beautiful work
Thank you very much!
Nice rescue and repair Harry!
Thanks for another great video Harry
Rick Marshall Thanks Rick! All the best Harry
good video! thanks for sharing your patience and skills
Really enjoyed, very informative & made me think of some projects. The next stage of fitting a backing glass will hopefully cover how to clean internal glazing sections between leaded glass & armoured glass. Plus I would like to see how the window frame is profiled & assembled.
Hi Richard - i have put a film up on making the actual frames etc. All the best Harry
Thank you for this video! I have two small cabinet windows to repair. Hopefully things go well 🤓
Great 👍 tutorial thanks for sharing..
I love glass restoration videos
Thanks - I give quite a few things a go, and I get some failures, but I guess thats life! Pick up and have another go...
Great tips I need to repair one from my front door thinking had to destroy to fix but your plan may very well be perfect.
Yep = its held up well so hopefully will work for you
fantastic teaching, thank you
Hi Harry
Thanks for posting this video.
I was wondering if you could please give us some advice. Our home is an old detached Victorian house with three beautiful stained glass windows on the inside part of the porch, much like the one you have except in great condition ;)
However, we feel the colours look extremely dull now, and we want to have the whole windows repainted. If we were to do this, is there a way we could remove the paint from the stained glass and then paint afresh?
Thanks, any help would be appreciated :)
Hi Yousuf...sometimes some polish such as silver metal polish gets all the grime and tarnish off and makes the glass bright again...that might be worth trying on a discrete corner as a tester....sorry but beyond that I don't really know...perhaps someone here can help further. Best regards Harry
Yousuf Munshi you cannot remove true painted work from stained glass hence the term Stained glass. the colour is fired in a kiln and becomes part of the glass. It however can be burnished off using a dremel. this will ofcourse leave the surface badly scratched and very ugly in appearance. then i guess a stained glass artisan could repaint. But this would be a very pointless project as it would be easier and less costly to just get new windows made. Go to an expert in your area for advice.
Enjoyed the presentation ,but wanted to see the adding of the filler. Is it added on one side only or both sides?
I added it to both sides otherwise it would be gappy and not secure. I hope that helps.
I am interested in building a frame for an old stained glass window and you mentioned a video you did that explains how to make such a frame and mentioned specific ways to line the window before putting it into the frame. Is this still on RUclips? If so can you give me the link. Thank you. I watched this video several times and I think I can do this. Patience seems to be one key ingredient to success.
Hi it was on making window frames, about the same time as this video. I used draught insulation strip to cushion the lead windows behind tempered glass and its stood the test of time.
Harry, thank you for taking the time to create the video. I would like to know how to attach the lead. I just purchased a large piece that needs to be repaired. Thanks.
amazing work harry are you going to show the restoration of your new little shop i think it would be very interesting
fantastic video
Hi Harry, Love the video. Could you possibly advise me on a lead glass window that looks like it's about to implode? I'm busy painting some 2nd story windows for a customer, they are leaded with a small diamond pattern (4X2). One window which is hinged is about 12" x 16" and the middle is bowed in about 2". Can I just lie it on a flat surface and push it back level? I'd appreciate some advice from yourself or any other with experience. Thanks.
screeminjesus I'm guessing and hopefully someone else can advise...I suspect you could coax it down gently by gently pressing ....but the glass may crack and the lead will have stretched and the grout will be displaced...so you may get away with it but I'm not sure you will.
Cheers Harry, I'll let you know what happens. I might even try warming it in a oven for a while, soften the lead a bit.
Thanks! I have my eye out now!
Best -
it turned out very well ,,, I would love that in my front door,, thank,s ,,,
thank you. i have a window that was placed in the ceiling. gravity has caused it to bow and some of the pieces of glass have fallen out. my goal is to repair it and return it to the window opening it came out of. i missed how you used the leaded cement. i guess for that you just follow the directions on the container? very informative video and just right for my needs. thanks again.
yes usually just scrub in the stained glass putty with a rag or stiff brush - I hope it goes well. Regards Harry
You're a more patient man than I.
Harry ,nice try ! I have been restoring leaded glass for 30 years ,some things which you admit that your not skilled are a bit misleading, try using and oyster knife to lift the lead came.Great and clear presentation
Where's your video?
I've never done anything with stained glass but i was wondering if you were to use a heat gun if that would help with moving the lead back or not
Great video enjoyed it very much
Well spotted - yes I think it must be something like that!
My advice is to build your shed 2m wider and have a dedicated table for such work.
Yes patience would be an issue with me as well.Interesting video,I think i'll stick to felling trees.
Any thoughts on what to do with lots of small panes of church glass some kid shot with a bb or pellet gun? I thought about just a dab of silicone, or just replace them. Thanks.
ltcajh I guess the silicone is a reversible repair that would stabilise it all....perhaps a sheet of toughened glass or a machine gun in front might help....sorry just joking...I have not really got a ready answer for that...hopefully someone here will.
Maybe the little buggers will leave the place alone now that it has an owner who is working on it. I suspect hail in the past 105 years has contributed to the breakages some. There's stained glass all over the place, and it needs TLC. I'm hoping the one bowed out area can be pressed back into place with a section of plywood. If not, well, looks like a lot of work to reproduce the lead. That's my wife's lane.
I have leaded a bay window in front of my home. It has a leaded glass window. It’s also bowed. I had a Glazier tell me it was bowed out because of exposure to the Texas heat on the outside and the Air Conditioning on the inside? Could be just the sunshine and the shade? It’s only about 35 years old. I hate to waste all of the time, resources and money that was spent on the glass and would love to re-lead and sandwich them with glass. I like the machine gun idea, Harry! That’s probably the Texas gal, in me. 😬
So how do you feel about grozing pliers? :-)
Bill - I love them ...well worth buying a pair.
Fascinating craft work, William Morris would be proud! Does anyone know where I can buy some replacement glass for my Victorian window near London I live in Waltham Abbey, please? I'd like to use the techniques so well demo'd here to restore my front door.
Philip Lewis Lead and Light might still be at Camden Lock?
I see they are still on the web!
Great video! Thanks for this!
Bucklehurst Leather? Where'd that name originate? A variant of Buckle or Buckles?
Our house was a cobblers and we found it used to be called Bucklehurst!
@@harryrogers
Sweet!!
Where in the UK are you?
the cutter you were using, does it have a light machine oil in it?
yes it does - its an oil filled cutter - very cheap to buy from DIY stores
At first i thought it was like one of the old tacky blackpool pens you used to be able to buy
i kept looking to see if the lady would drop her dress...nice thanks.
Nice video I am restoring a window from my Parents home. Just replacing bad lead, but I am interested in the sandwiching of the glass because the window was very compromised after removing the frame it was in, I will replace the frame . are the .
Anita - you seemed to run out of words .....the frame I put it in had foam and p strip around it .... there is a film of me making the frames on my channel if that helps....its worth bedding the lead to frame with foam or mastic as it cushions dorr and window shutting and gives a good seal.
thank you so much
Is it toxic to be handling lead directly? Aren't there special gloves for the task?
Hi good point...my understanding is that it's ok to touch solid lead, but not chemicals that contain lead as it's absorbed into the body by ingestion and inhalation ....but I guess to be safe gloves and a mask are not a bad idea. Thanks
@@harryrogers I really enjoyed your presentation, Harry. I have a multi paned front door with matching multi-paned sides. It's an Edwardian home but the gently undulating glass, may or may not be from that era. I was hoping to do a minimal arts and crafts version of lead lighting with beveled glass pieces and a dot of colour here and there. I don't know whether I will have the confidence to do it or even how to measure the replacement panels up so that the new inserts fit. I have a long road of learning ahead of me, I guess. Keep up the great work!
@@artfullyspun5480 sounds great...a good challenge.
You might like to invest in a glass grinder if you do very much of this. Also, I see we share a last name. I doubt we are related, however.
Hello and thanks for that suggestion...I am not planning on doing more but that would have been a great tool! My ancestors were from the Portsmouth area around 1750.
Amazing....anything you can't do ;)
Is this a monty Python sketch!
All of the lead looks brittle. You would have been better to have reproduced a cartoon and rebuilt the entire window with new came.
Start by cleaning your shop